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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  IVIicroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


& 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Not»s  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibiiographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  andommagde 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pelliculde 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  tftre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


D 
D 


D 


f 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  una 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  fiimage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli§  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  Interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  be  n  omitted  from  filming/ 
11  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  ceia  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires; 

This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  fiim6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 

lOX  14X  18X  22X 


D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pelliculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d^colorSes,  tachetdes  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachees 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire   ' 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuiilet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  fa9on  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


12X 


16X 


20X 


E 


24X 


26X 


SOX 


28X 


3 


32X 


".■—-->*  .-r^n  ''^■--'■ 


lire 

details 
jes  du 
modifier 
jer  una 
fiimage 


6es 


re 


\ 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanics 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photodupllcation  Service 

Tha  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  approoriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^-(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

IVlaps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
differt  nt  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'exemplaire  fiimd  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photodupllcation  Service 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  fiimd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fiimage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimto  sont  film6s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
Sa  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  —^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  y  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmte  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  I'angle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
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COL.  J.  C.  FREMONT. 


NARRATIVE 


Of 

I 


T II E   E  X  r  L  0  fi  r  X  G  E  X  J'  K  1)  1  T  J  0  N 


to 


THE  llOCKY  MOUNTAINS 


m  THP  YRAH  ISti. 


&Nb  TO 


OHEOON  AND  NORTH  CALii^M)RNIA 


IN  THB  YEARS  l84»-44. 


BV 


■■■'   V**'  ■■ 
COLONEL  jHVImHMONT, 


RRPRtTfTRTJ  F»OM  THB  OPPinUl.  ttOfV. 


<>^ 


NEW  YOIiK.  , 
D     A  P P L K T 0 N   A N D   % 0 M PA N Y, 

aifl  k  848   bboidwaY. 

M.UCCO.CTl. 


-^^'-■' --■'--  --'I IllB,^ 


COl.  J.  t.  fBEMONT, 


NARRATIVE 


or 


THE  EXPL0EIN6  EXPEDITION 


TO 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 


IN  THE  YEAR  1842. 


:^. 


AND  TO 


OREGON  AND  NORTH  CALIFORNIA 


I 


" .' 


IN  THE  YEARS  1843-44. 


BV 


5 


COLONEL  J^Cf^TREMONT, 


BBPRINTED  FROM  THE  OFFICIAL  CtffY* 


NEW  YORK: 
D.   APPLETON  AND  COMPANY, 


846    &   84S    BBOAOWAT. 
H.DOOO.I.VI. 


i  i- 


.p. 


r.„*^' 


5^ 


ai 


svi 


:!«,. 


PREFATORY  NOTICE. 


The  immense  region  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  extending  to  the 
l*acific  ocean,  and  bounded  by  the  Russian  frontier  on  the  nortli,  and  Cali- 
fornia on  the  soutli,  now  attracts  so  much  of  popular  regard,  and  is  com- 
mingled with  so  many  important  national  interests,  that  an  accurate  and 
minute  acquainluiicc  with  the  general  topic  is  essential  to  every  American 
citizen. 

Several  exploring  tours  of  the  western  portion  of  our  continent,  within  the 
gcograpliical  boundaries  of  the  wilds  now  commonly  known  by  the  title, 
Okedon,  have  taken  ])lace  during  the  present  century.  President  Jefferson, 
in  1804,  directed  the  first  scrutiny  in  that  country  under  the  superintendence 
of  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke,  who  devoted  the  larger  part  of  three  years  to 
the  examination  of  those  trackless  forests,  and  who  were  the  pioneers  of 
the  movements  which  are  now  extending  the  limiis  of  civilization,  where 
Indians,  or  deer,  bears,  or  buffaloes  only  roamed.  The  second  expedition  by 
Major  Pike  to  survey  the  West,  forty  years  ago,  was  restricted  to  the  eastern 
side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  am'  consequently  communicated  little  direct 
intelligence  concernuig  the  lands,  the  possession  of  which  is  now  the  subject 
of  controversy  between  the  United  States  and  Britain. 

The  other  subsequent  travellers  in  the  western  territory  confined  their 
researches  within  the  country  through  which  the  Upper  Mississippi  and 
Missouri  flow ;  and  tliereforc  imparted  no  information  of  any  importam  c 
concerning  the  Oregon  lands,  rivers,  and  other  topics  of  public  interest. 

Diiring  several  years,  however,  from  1833  to  1838,  Mr.  Nicollet,  a  scien 
tific  tourist,  explored  a  very  extensive  portion  of  the  western  countiy  beyond 
the  northern  branches  of  the  Mississippi.  At  the  close  of  his  amateur  travels, 
the  government  of  the  United  States  engaged  him  to  repeat  his  journey  in 
another  region ;  and  Captain  Fremont  was  united  with  him  to  assist  his 
efforts      After  an  absence  of  two  seasons,  they  returned  and  exhibited  the 


f^9 


XrH    >:■'■/./,•    Il,.l,\ 


.\,iViit»iuih 


iv 


PREFATORY  NOTICE. 


result  of  their  discoveries  and  astronomical  observations  and  topographical 
admeasurements  to  tlie  government  at  Washington. 

It  being  desirable  for  the  Federal  authorities  to  become  fully  acquainted 
with  the  state  of  the  territory  between  the  southern  geographical  boundary 
of  the  United  States  and  the  Rocky  Mountains,  around  the  head-waters  of 
the  Missouri,  Captain  Fremont  was  appointed  to  superintend  that  exploring 
tour.  That  enterprising  and  scientific  traveller  is  now  absent  on  his  third 
expedition  to  enlarge  our  acquaintance  with  the  western  uninhabited  districts. 

The  ensuing  narratives  include  the  Reports  of  the  two  tours  which  have 
already  been  made  by  Captain  Fremont,  as  they  were  presented  to  the  Con 
gress  of  the  United  States,  and  originally  published  by  their  command  ;  ex- 
cluding only  the  portions  which  are  altogether  astronomical,  scientific,  and 
philosophical,  and  therefore  not  adapted  for  general  utility.  Captain  Fremont 
states  that  the  whole  of  the  delineations  both  "  in  the  narrative  and  in  the 
maps,"  which  constitute  the  official  publication,  are  "  the  result  of  positive 
observation,"  From  a  survey  of  the  researches  thus  presented,  it  appears, 
that  the  entire  map  of  Oregon  has  been  amply  drawn  out,  so  far  as  at  present 
is  requisite  for  all  the  purposes  of  geographical  inquiry  and  national  arrange- 
ment. With  these  claims  on  public  attention,  and  the  deep  interest  which 
the  subject  itself  now  offers,  this  authentic  edition  of  Captain  Fremont's 
extensive  and  protracted  researches  in  the  western  dominions  of  the  United 
States,  is  confidently  recommended  to  tlie  perusal  of  our  fellow-citizens. 


^;w-^^hf?gW'^^^^^^^r%.^^.^^B^*.*«rt^  ^-^^w^*^fr-\^.:tim^^A 


.SiiViinniin 


s  and  topographical 

me  lully  acquainted 
Dgrapliical  boundary 

the  head-waters  of 
itcnd  tliat  exploring 
absent  on  his  third 
ininhabited  districts, 
ivo  tours  which  have 
resented  to  the  Con 
their  command ;  cx- 
tnical,  scientific,  and 
f.  Captain  Fremont 
larrative  and  in  the 
lie  result  of  positive 
resented,  it  appears, 
,  so  far  as  at  present 
nd  national  arrange- 

deep  interest  which 

Captain  Fremont's 
inions  of  the  United 

fellow-citizens. 


iriihJBPW^lWtfr  ^  h  4iMrf<-Iiai>.i 


GEOGIIAPHICAL    MEMOIR. 


On  the  second  day  of  February,  in  the 
year  1847,  during  my  absence  on  my  third 
exf)edition  of  topographical  survey,  in  tlie 
western  part  of  this  continent,  a  resolve  was 
passed  by  the  Senate  directing  the  construc- 
tion of  two  maps — one  of  the  central  section 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  the  other  of 
Oregon  and  Upper  California — from  the  ma- 
terials collected  by  me  in  the  two  previous 
expeditions,  and  with  the  additions  which  the 
then  existing  expedition  might  furnish ;  and 
Mr.  Charles  Preuss,  my  assistant  in  the  first 
and  second  expeditions,  was  employed  to 
commence  the  work. 

On  my  return  to  the  United  States,  in  the 
month  of  September  last,  I  found  Mr.  Preuss 
closely  engaged  upon  the  work  on  which  the 
Senate  had  employed  him ;  and,  from  that 
time  to  the  present,  I  have  myself  given  all 
the  time  that  could  be  spared  from  other  en- 
gagements to  supply  the  additions  which  the 
last  expedition  has  enabled  me  to  make. 
Conceiving  that  the  map  of  Oregon  and  Cali- 
fornia was  of  the  most  immediate  and  press- 
ing importance,  I  first  directed  my  attention 
to  its  preparation,  in  order  to  bring  it  into  a 
condition  as  soon  as  possible  to  be  laid  before 
the  Senate ;  which  is  now  done. 

In  laying  this  map  of  Oregon  and  Upper 
California  before  the  Senate,  1  deem  it  oroper 
to  show  the  extent  and  general  character  of 
the  work,  and  how  far  it  may  be  depended 
on  as  correct,  as  being  founded  on  my  own 
or  other  surveys,  and  now  far  it  is  conjectu- 
ral, and  only  presented  as  the  best  that  is 
known. 

In  extent,  it  embraces  the  whole  western 
side  of  this  continent  between  the  eastern 
base  of  the  Rocky  mountains  and  the  Pacific 
ocean,  and  between  the  straits  of  Fuca  and 
the  gulf  of  California,  taking  for  its  outline, 
uie  north,  the  boundary  lino  with  Great 


on 


Britain,  and  on  the  south,  including  the  bay 


of  San  Diego,  the  head  of  the  gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia, the  rivers  Colorado  and  Gila,  and  all 
the  country  ♦hrough  which  tiie  line  of  the 
late  treaty  with  Mexico  would  run,  from  El 
Paso  del  Norle  to  the  sea.  To  complete  the 
view  in  that  quarter,  the  valley  of  the  Rio 
del  Norte  is  added,  from  the  head  of  the  river 
to  El  Paso  del  Norte,  thereby  including  New 
Mexico.  The  map  has  been  constructed  ex- 
pressly to  exhibit  the  two  countries  of  Ore- 
gon and  the  Alta  California  together.  It  is 
lielieved  to  be  the  most  correct  that  has  ap- 
peared of  either  of  them ;  and  it  is  certainly 
the  only  one  that  shows  the  structure  and 
configuration  of  the  interior  of  Upper  Cali- 
fornia. 

The  part  of  the  map  which  exhibits  Ore- 
gon is  chiefly  copied  from  the  works  of  others, 
but  not  entirely,  my  own  explorations  in  that 
territory  having  extended  to  nearly  two  thou- 
sand miles.  The  part  which  exhibits  Cali- 
fornia, and  especially  the  Great  Basin,  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  the  beautiful  valley  of  Sacra- 
mento and  San  Joaquin,  is  chiefly  from  my 
own  surveys  or  personal  view,  and  in  such 
cases  is  given  as  correct.  Where  my  own 
observations  did  not  extend,  the  best  authori- 
ties have  been  followed. 

The  profile  view  in  the  margin,  on  the 
north  siae  of  the  map,  exhibits  the  elevations 
of  the  country  from  the  South  Pass  in  tlie 
Rocky  mountains  to'  the  bav  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, passing  the  Utah  ana  the  Great  Salt 
lake,  following  the  river  Humboldt  through 
the  northern  side  of  the  Great  Basin,  cross- 
ing the  Sierra  Nevada  into  the  valley  of  the 
Sacramento,  where  the  emigrant  road  now 
crosses  that  sierra  forty  miles  north  of  Nueva 
Helvetia.  This  line  shows  the  present  tra- 
velling route  to  California.  The  profile  on 
the  south  side  of  tlie  map  exhibits  the  eleva- 
tions of  the  country  on  a  different  line — the 
Une  of  exploration  in  the  lost  expedition— 


>"^'i  ■ 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MIlMOll! 


from  the  head  of  tlio  Arkuiisas  by  the  Utiih  i 
and  Halt  liiko,  nnd  tlin)iii,'li  iho  interior  of  tlip  \ 
Grout  Uasjn.  oros^insj  tlio  Sierra  Nevada  into  - 
the  Siicrutnento  valley  at  the  heiid  of  the 
Itiii  til'  Ins  Amcric.niiiis.    These  jirofilc  viewf*  I 
are  given  merely  for  their  outlines,  to  show  j 
tho  structure  ot   Oie  country  betwc^'n   the  i 
Rocky  mountains  and  the  cea,  and  the  rise 
and  fall  occasioned  by  niountuins  and  valleys,  j 
Full  and  descriptive  iirohlo  views  on  a  larjm 
Bcalo  are  wanted,  markint;  tho   peolopical  i 
structure  of  the  country,  and  oxhibilinnf  at  I 
their  proper  altitudes  tiie  dilTerent  ])n)diu'ts 
of  the  vegetable  kingdom.     Sonio  material 
is  already  collected  f  jr  such  a  purpose,  ex- 
tendinjT  on  (lifFerent  lines  from  the  Missis- 
t;i|)pi  to  the  Pacific,  but  not  sufficient  to  com- 
plete the  work. 

The  Arabic  figures  on  different  parts  of 
the  map  indicate  the  elevation  of  places  aliove 
the  level  of  the  sea ;  a  knowledge  of  which 
is  essential  to  a  just  conception  of  tho  climate 
and  agricultural  capacities  of  n  country. 

The  longitudes  established  on  the  line  of 
exploration  of  the  last  expedition  are  based 
on  a  series  of  astronomical  observations,  rest- 
ing on  lour  main  positions,  determined  by 
lunar  culminations.  The  first  of  these  main 
positions  is  at  the  mouth  of  tho  Funlaine  qui 
Jinuil  river,  on  the  Upper  Arkansas  ;  the  se- 
cond is  on  the  eastern  shore  of  tlie  Great 
Salt  lake,  and  two  in  the  valley  of  the  Sacra- 
mento, at  tho  western  base  of  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada. This  line  of  astronomical  observations, 
thus  carried  across  the  continent,  reaches  the 
I'acilic  ocean  on  the  northern  shore  of  the 
bay  of  Monterey. 

In  my  published  map,  of  the  year  1845, 
the  line  of  the  western  coast  was  laid  down 
according  to  Vancouver.  When  the  newly 
established  positions  were  placed  on  the  map 
now  laid  before  the  Senate,  it  was  found  that 
they  carried  the  line  of  the  coast  about  four- 
teen miles  west,  and  the  valleys  of  the  Sa- 
cramento and  San  Joaquin  about  twenty 
miles  east ;  making  an  increase  of  more  than 
thirty  miles  in  the  breadth  of  the  country 
below  the  Sierra  Nevada.  Upon  examina- 
tion, it  was  found  that  these  positions  agreed, 
nearly,  with  the  observations  of  Captain 
Beechey,  at  Monterey.  The  corrections 
required  by  the  new  positions  were  then 
accordingly  made ;  the  basin  of  the  Sacra- 
mento and  San  Joaquin  valleys  was  removed 
to  the  eastward,  and  the  line  of  the  coast 
projected  farther  \\<'st,  conformably  to  my 
observations,  retaining  the  configuration 
given  to  it  by  the  surveys  of  Van«ouver. 

The  error  in  the  position  of  the  San  Joa- 
quin, Sacramento,  and  Wahlahniath  valleys 
still  exists  upon  the  most  authentic  maps  ex- 
tant ;  and  it  appeals  that,  upon  the  charts  in 
general  use,  a  greatly  erroneous  position  is 
still  given  to  the  coast. 


By  the  ret  mil  of  tlw  United  State.'=  sloop- 
of-war  l'(irt<iii(>iitli,  (.'iiuiiaaudi-r  Jlontgom. 
ery,  from  the  l'i.<ilic  ocean,  it  is  learnci!  that 
two  Briti-^h  ships  of  v.ar  are  now  ciiyagcd 
ill  iiiiihiiig  a  mnv  survey  of  the  gulf  and 
con.-l  of  California.  It  is  aL-io  known  that 
an  Americaii  whale  ship  was  recently  lost  on 
the  coast  of  Culil'oinia  in  ronsefjuenee  of  the 
errors  in  the  charts  now  in  general  use,  loca- 
ting the  coast  and  islands,  from  Monterey 
south,  too  far  east.* 

The  astronomical  observations  made  by  inc 
across  the  contiiii'iit,  in  this  my  third  expe- 
dition, were  calculated  by  Professor  Hub- 
bard, of  the  national  observatory,  (Washing- 
ton city.)  during  the  ])rnseiit  winter ;  and  a 
note  from  hiui  on  the  subject  of  these  obser- 
vations is  added  as  an  apjieiidix  to  this 
memoir.  INIy  attention  having  been  recently 
called  to  this  subject,  (the  true  position  of 
the  coast  of  California,)  I  find  it  worthy  of 
remark,  that  the  position  given  to  this  coast 
on  the  charts  of  the  old  Spanish  navigators 
agrees  nearly  with  that  which  woulrl  bo  as- 
signed to  it  by  the  observations  of  the  most 
eminent  naval  surveyors  of  the  present  day. 
The  ))osition  adojited  for  Monterey  and  tiie 
adjacent  coast,  on  tho  map  now  laid  belbre 
the  Senate,  agrees  nearly  with  that  in  whicli 
it  liad  been  placed  by  the  observations  of 
Mahi!<]nna,-\  in  1791. 

In  constructing  this  map  it  became  neces- 
sary to  ado|)t  the  coast  line  of  the  Pacific,  a.s 
found  in  ma[is  in  general  use,  to  give  it  com- 
pleteness. It  was  no  part  of  my  design  to 
make  a  chart  of  the  coast.  Finding  an  error 
when  I  came  to  lay  down  the  Bay  of  Monte- 
rey, I  altereil  my  map  to  suit  it.  I  knew 
notiiing  then  of  any  errors  in  tho  coast. 
It  is  satisfactory  now  to  find  that  my  astro- 
nomical observations  correspond  with  those 
previously  made  by  Beechey  and  Belcher, 
and  very  gratifying  to  be  able  to  add  some 
testimonial  to  the  correctness  of  those  made 
by  Malaspina  long  before  either  of  them, 
Vancouver  removed  the  coast  line  as  fixed 
by  Malaspina,  and  tho  subsequent  observa- 
tions carry  it  back. 

*  Naval.— Tlie  United  States slonp-of-warPortiimoiitli. 
Conimamlor  Joliti  H.  .Montgomery,  nrrived  nt  Boston  t,n 
Ftiilay,  I'toni  tl'e  Potifii;  ouenn.  last  from  Val|iar.niso.  Keb- 
ruary'*2*.t.  lyiininiandcr  Munlgoniery  states  that  the  British 
ftigiUe  "  Htriild,"  and  the  I)ii^'  "  Pandora,"  are  en- 
gaged in  making  a  new  survey  ol  tlie  gulf  and  coast  of 
Cftlilbrnia. 

Tlie  whale  ship  "  Hope,"  of  Providence,  was  re- 
cently lust  on  the  eoast,  in  conseqnence  of  an  error  in  the 
charts  now  in  genera]  use.  which  locate  the  coasts  and 
islands  from  Monterey  lo  Ca|ie  St.  I.ucas  from  fifteen  to 
lo.ty  miles  too  far  to  lire  eastward. — JVational  Intel/i 

t  Of  llri>  skilful,  intrepid,  and  unfortunate  navigator, 
Hnmholdt  (Essay  on  New  S|>ain)  says  ; 

"  The  pecnlirrr  m'-rit  of  his  expedition  consist-s  not  only 
in  tire  nurirhiT  of  iislronomical  observations,  but  ])rinci 
pally  in  the  jrrdicious  method  which  wa-s  employed  to  ni 
rive  at  certain  jt»-ul!«.  The  longitude  and  latitnde  of  foiii 
poims  on  tlie  ('oast  (("aiic  Pan  Lucas,  iMonterey.  Nontkit, 
and  Fort  Mulfrnvo)  were  fixed  in  an  absolute  manoar. 


Si-si5iift-rfini»».tfc^jK*iaji 


.(»).. ;-!*tj'i 


till-  UiiitPil  SlutP.-  sloop- 
,  Cinmn.'iiidiT  lloiitpnni- 
[•  ocean,  it  is  Iciirncd  that 
if  war  iin-  now  cntjii^cd 
Mirvi'V  of  lln'  {Tiiir  and 
It  is  also  known  tiiat 

ship  was  rccciilly  lost  (in 
Ilia  in  conscfinonco  of  tiic 
now  in  gfui'i'al  use,  lor.a- 

islands,  from  Monterey 

observations  made  Iiy  inc 
It,  in  this  my  tliird  expo- 
iitc'd  by  Professor  IIui> 
1  observatory,  (VVasliiii;,'- 
0  jirnspnt  winter  ;  and  a 
le  sniijecl  of  tlieso  oljser- 
is  an  «p|)endix  to  tiiis 
ion  haviiiff  been  recently 
•et,  (the  true  position  of 
niia.)  I  find  it  worthy  of 
sit  ion  given  to  this  const 
5  old  S[)anish  navigiitors 
that  wiiich  woulrl  bo  ns- 
obsorvations  of  tlie  most 
nyors  of  the  present  day. 
■d  for  Monterey  and  the 
;iio  map  now  laid  bel'oro 
nearly  with  that  in  whieli 

l)y  the  observations  of 
1. 

Ilia  map  it  became  necos- 
ast  line  of  tlie  Pacific,  as 
neral  nse,  to  give  it  coni- 
no  part  of  my  desijrn  to 
coast.  Finding  an  error 
down  the  Bay  of  Monte- 
nap  to  suit  it.  I  knew 
my  errors  in  the  coast. 
3W  to  find  that  my  ustro- 
is  correspond  with  those 
y  Beechey  and  Belcher, 
r  to  be  able  to  add  some 
)rrectness  of  those  nuidc 

before  either  of  them, 
d  the  coast  line  as  fixed 
the  subsequent  observa- 


I  StTitMsIonp-of-warPortJimoiitli, 
ntgifinery,  arrived  tit  Boston  fill 
)cenn,  last  from  Valparni&o,  Feb- 
'luntgoniery  states  that  the  British 
tlie  liiig  "  Panilora,"  are  en- 
mrvey  ut  the  gulf  and  coast  of 

(>pe,'*  of  Provitlenee,  was  ro- 
n  conseqiienee  of  an  error  in  tlie 
is«,  vrliiuh  iooate  the  coasts  and 
C;i|ie  Si.  I.ucas  from  (ilYeeii  to 
le  eastward.— JVafionn/  Intct/i 

|iid,  and  unfortunate  navigator, 
w  iSjiain)  says  : 

r  his  fxyK'dition  consists  not  only 
lOmiL'al  observations,  but  jirinci 
llioil  wliii'h  was  eni|ilo>cd  to  «i 
'he  loneitude  and  latitude  nf  I'oiii 
!  ?an  f.ucHs,  iMonterey.  Nontkii. 
t  fixed  in  an  absolute  iiiaiiDdr. 


UPON  UPPER  CALIFORNIA. 


In  laying  this  n-np  before  the  Sennfo,  and 
,'n  anticipation  of  the  full  work  which  my 
oxydorations  (with    some    further   p,xamina-  [ 
tions)  may  enable  nio  to  draw  np  herpafter,  [ 
I  deem  it  a  jiroper  iiccompaniment  to  the  j 
map  to  pre.sont  some  brief  noticps  of  Cau-  ! 
FOUNiA,  with  a  view  to  show  the  clmracter 
of  the  country,  and  its  capability  or  other- 
wise to  sustain   a  considerable   population. 
In  doing  this,  no  gcnefal  remarks  applicable 
to   the  whole  of    California  can    bo  used. 
The  diversity  in  different  parts  is  too  great  '■ 
to  admit  of  generalization  in  the  description,  j 
Separate  views  of  different  parts  must  be  ta-  ' 
ken  ;  and  in  this  brief  sketch,  the  design  is 
to  limit  the  view  to  the  two  great  divisions 
of  the  country  which   lie  on  the  opposite  ' 
sides  of  the  Siehiia  Nevada,  and  to  the  j 
character  of  that  mountain  itself,  so  promi-  , 
nont  in  the  structure  of  the  country,  and  ■ 
exercising  so  great  an  influence  over  the  cli- 
mate, soil,  and  productions  of  its  two  divi- 
sions. ! 

SIERRA   NEVADA. 

This  Sierra  is  part  of  the  great  mountain 
range,  which,  under  different  names  and  ' 
with  different  elevations,  but  with  much  uni-  | 
formity  of  direction  and  general  proximity  ; 
to  the  coast,  extends  from  the  peninsula  of  I 
California  to  Russian  America,  and  without 
a  gap  in  the  distance  throiigli  which  the 
water  of  the  Rocky  mountains  could  reach  the 
Pacific  ocean,  except  at  the  two  places  where 
the  Columbia  and  Frazer's  river  respect- 
ively find  their  passage.  This  great  range 
is  remarkable  for  its  length,  its  proximity  and 
parallelism  to  the  sea-coast,  its  great  eleva- 
tion, often  more  lofty  than  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains, and  its  many  grand  volcanic  peaks, 
reaching  high  into  the  region  of  perpetual 
snow.  Rising  singly,  like  pyramids,  from 
heavily  timbered  plateaux,  to  the  height  of 
fourteen  and  seventeen  thousand  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  these  snowy  peaks  con- 
stitute the  characterizing  feature  of  the 
range,  and  distinguish  it  from  the  Rocky 
mountains  and  all  others  on  our  part  of  the 
continent. 

That  part  of  this  range  which  traverses 
the  Alta  California  is  called  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  (Snowy  mountain) — a  name  in  it- 
self implying  a  great  elevation,  as  it  is  only 
applied,  in  Spanish  geography,  to  the  moun- 
tains whose  summits  penetrate  the  region  of 
perpetual  snow.  It  is  a  grand  feature  of 
California,  and  a  dominating  one,  and  must 
be  well  understood  before  the  structure  of 
the  country  and  the  character  of  its  different 
divisions  can  be  comprehended.  It  divides 
California  into  two  parts,  and  exercises  a 
decided  influence  on  the  climate,  soil,  and 
productions  of  each.    Stretching  along  the 


coast,  and  at  the  general  distance  (<f  130 
miles  from  it,  this  great  mouiiMin  wall  re- 
ceives  the  warm  winds,  charged  with  vapor, 
which  sweep  across  the  Pacific  ocean,  ]<ro- 
cipitatcs  their  acciimiilated  mi)istiire  in  fer- 
tilizing rains  and  snows  upon  its  western 
flank,  and  loaves  cold  and  dry  winds  to  pass 
on  to  the  east.  Hence  the  characteristic  dif- 
ferences of  the  two  regions — mildness,  fer- 
tility, and  a  Kii|)erb  vegetable  kingdom  on 
one  side,  comparative  barrenness  unu  cold  on 
the  other. 

The  two  sides  of  the  Sierra  e.vhibit  two 
distinct  dimafps.  The  slate  of  vegetation, 
in  connection  with  some  therniometrical  ob- 
servations made  during  the  recent  exi)lorinn' 
expedition  to  California,  will  establish  an3 
illustrate  this  dillerence.  In  the  beginning 
of  December,  1816,  we  crossed  fhisSien'a, 
at  latitude  39"  17'  i\i",  at  the  present  usual 
emigrant  pass,  at  the  head  of  the  Sulnion 
Trout  river,  10  miles  north  of  New  Helvetia, 
and  made  observations  at  each  base,  and  in 
the  same  latitude,  to  determine  the  respective 
temperatures  ;  the  two  bases  being,  respect- 
ively, the  western  aiioiit  500,  and  the  eastern 
about  4,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ; 
and  the  i'ass,  7,200  feet.  The  mean  results 
of  the  observations  were,  on  the  eastern  side, 
at  sunrise,  9°  ;  at  noon,  4\°  ;  at  sunset  30°  ; 
the  state  of  vegetation  and  the  np])earnnce 
of  the  country  being  at  the  same  tiuic  (second 
week  of  December)  that  of  confirmed  win- 
ter ;  the  rivers  frozen  over,  snow  on  the 
ridges,  annual  plants  dead,  grass  dry,  and  de- 
ciduous trees  stripped  of  their  foliage.  At 
the  western  base,  the  mean  temperature  du- 
ring a  corresponding  week  was,  at  sunrise, 
29°  and  at  sunset  6-J° ;  the  state  of  the  at- 
mosphere and  of  vegetation  that  of  advancing 
spring  ;  grass  fresh  and  green,  four  to  eight 
inches  high,  vernal  plants  in  bloom,  the  air 
soft,  and  all  the  streams  free  from  ice.  Thus 
December,  on  one  side  of  the  mountain,  was 
winter ;  on  the  other  it  was  spring. 


THE   GREAT  BASIN. 

East  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  between 
it  and  the  Rocky  mountains,  is  that  anoma- 
lous feature  in  our  continent,  the  Great  Ba- 
sin, the  existence  of  which  was  advanced  as 
a  theory  after  the  second  expedition,  and  is 
now  established  as  a  geographical  fact.  It 
is  a  singular  feature :  a  basin  of  some  five 
hundietlmjles  diameter,  every  way,  between 
four  and  five  tliousand  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  shut  in  all  around  by  mountains, 
with  its  own  system  of  lakes  and  rivers,  and 
having  no  connection  whatever  with  the  sea. 
Partly  arid  and  sparsely  inhabited,  the  gen- 
eral character  of  the  Great  Basin  is  that  of 
dosert,  but  with  great  exceptions,  there  being 


B 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR 


rnftny  parts  of  it  very  fit  for  the  rcsidonco  of 
d  civilized  |iPO|iip ;  iiiul  of  tlipso  partH,  tiie 
Morinotis  liavo  lately  cwtHblitihed  theiimclvua 
in  Olio  of  tlio  lar^TL'Kt  and  l>cst.  Muuntain  is 
tlie  prcdominatinf;  structure  of  tlio  interior 
of  tli'3  IJusin,  with  plains  between — the  niuun- 
taini4  wtxMlcd  and  watered,  the  |)lains  arid  and 
eterile.  'I'ho  interior  mountains  conform  to 
the  law  wliii'li  governs  tlio  course  of  the 
Rocky  mountains  and  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
raiit'iiig  nearly  ninth  and  south,  and  present 
a  very  uiiifonii  character  of  aliruptness,  ris- 
.ng  sudiicnly  froui  a  narrow  lioso  of  ten  to 
twenty  miles,  and  attaining  an  elevation  of 
two  to  live  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  country.  They  are  grassy  and  wooded, 
sluwing  snow  on  their  summit  peaks  during 
the  greater  part  of  the  year,  and  attbrding 
email  streams  of  water  from  live  to  fifty  feut 
wide,  which  lose  themselves,  some  in  lakes, 
Home  in  ihe  dry  plains,  and  some  in  the  belt 
of  alluvial  soil  at  the  base  ;  for  these  moun- 
tains have  very  uniformly  this  belt  of  allu- 
vion, the  wash  and  abnision  of  their  sidew, 
rich  in  excellent  grass,  fertile,  and  light  and 
loose  enough  t'  absorb  small  streams.  Be- 
tween these  mountains  are  the  arid  plains 
which  receire  and  deserve  the  name  of  de» 
sert.  Such  is  the  general  structure  of  the 
interior  of  the  Great  Basin,  more  Asiatic  than 
American  in  its  character,  and  much  resem- 
bling the  elevated  region  between  the  Cas- 
pian sea  and  northern  Persia.  The  rim  of 
this  Basin  is  massive  ranges  of  mountains, 
of  which  the  Sierra  Nevada  on  the  west,  and 
the  Wah-satch  and  Timpanogos  chains  on 
the  east,  are  the  most  conspicuous.  On  the 
north,  it  is  separated  from  the  waters  of  tlie 
Columbia  by  a  branch  of  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains, and  from  the  gulf  of  California,  on  the 
south,  by  a  bed  of  mountainous  ranges,  of 
which  the  existence  has  been  only  recently 
determined.  Snow  abounds  on  them  all; 
on  some,  in  their  loftier  parts,  the  whole  year, 
with  wood  and  grass  ;  w:;h  copious  streams 
of  water,  sometimes  amounting  to  considera- 
ble rivers,  flowing  inwards,  and  forming  lakes 
or  sinking  in  the  sant's.  Belts  or  benches 
of  good  alluvion  arc  usually  found  at  their 
base. 

Lakes  in  the  Great  Basin. — The  Great 
Salt  lake  and  the  Utah  lake  are  in  this  Basin, 
towards  its  eastern  rim,  and  constitute  its 
most  interesting  feature — one,  a  saturated 
solution  of  common  salt — the  other,  fresh — 
the  Utah  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  Salt  lake,  which  is  itself  four 
thousand  two  hundred  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  connected  by  a  strait,  or  river,  thirty- 
five  miles  long.       <■ 

These  lakes  drain  an  orea  of  ten  or  twelve 
thousand  square  miles,  and  have,  on  the  east, 
along  the  base  of  the  mountain,  the  usual 
bcncn  of  alluvion,  which  extends  to  a  dis- 


tance of  three  hundred  miles,  with  woo<l  and 
water,  and  abundant  grans.  'J'lio  Mormons 
have  established  themselves  on  the  strait  be- 
tween these  two  lakes,  and  will  Hnd  sulficient 
arable  land  for  a  large  settlement — iiiiportnnt 
from  its  |K)siti(>n  as  intermediate  between  thd 
Mississippi  valley  and  the  I'licitic  ocean,  and 
on  the  lino  of  communication  to  Culil'urnia 
and  Oregon. 

The  Utah  is  about  thirty-five  miles  long, 
and  is  remarkable  for  the  numerous  and  boul 
streams  which  it  receives,  coming  down  from 
the  mountains  on  the  southeast,  all  freuh 
water,  although  a  largo  formation  of  rock 
salt,  imbedded  in  red  clay,  is  found  within 
the  area  on  the  southeast,  which  it  drains. 
The  lake  and  its  ailluents  aftbrd  largo  trout 
and  other  fish  in  great  numbers,  which  con- 
stitute the  food  of  the  UUih  Indians  during 
the  fishing  season.  The  Great  Salt  lake  has 
a  very  irregular  outline,  greatly  extended  at 
time  of  melting  snows.  It  is  about  seventy 
miles  in  length ;  k'th  lakes  ranging  nearly 
north  and  south,  in  conformity  to  the  nuigo 
of  the  mountains,  and  is  remarkable  for  ita 
predominance  of  salt.  The  whole  lake  wa- 
ters seem  thoroughly  saturated  with  it,  and 
every  evaporation  of  the  water  leaves  salt 
behind.  The  rocky  shores  of  the  islands  are 
whitened  by  the  spray,  which  leaves  salt  on 
every  thing  it  touches,  and  a  covering  like 
ice  forms  over  the  water,  which  the  waves 
throw  among  the  rocks.  The  shores  of  the 
lake  in  the  dry  season,  when  the  waters  re- 
cede, and  especially  on  the  south  side,  are 
whitened  with  incrustations  of  fine  white 
salt ;  the  shallow  arms  of  the  lake,  at  the 
same  time,  under  a  slight  covering  of  briny 
water,  present  beds  of  salt  for  miles,  re- 
sembling softened  ice,  into  which  the  horses' 
feet  sink  to  the  fetlock.  Plants  and  bushes, 
blown  by  the  wind  upon  these  fields,  are  en- 
tirely incrusted  with  crystallized  salt,  more 
than  an  inch  in  thickness.  Upon  this  lake 
of  salt  the  fresh  water  received,  though  great 
in  quantity,  has  no  perceptible  effect.  No 
fish,  or  animal  life  of  any  kind,  is  found  in 
it ;  the  larvcc  on  the  shore  being  found  to 
belong  to  winged  insects.  A  geological  ex- 
amination of  the  bed  and  shores  of  this  lake 
is  of  the  highest  interest. 

Five  gallons  of  water  taken  from  this  lake 
in  the  month  of  September,  and  roughly 
evaporated  over  a  fire,  gave  fourteen  pints  of 
salt,  a  part  of  which  being  subjected  to  ana- 
lysis, gave  the  following  proportions : 

partt. 
Chloride  of  sodium  (common  salt)  .  97.80 
Chloride  of  calcium  .  .  .  0.61 
Chloride  of  magnesium  .  .  .  0.24 
Sulphate  of  soda  .  .  .  0.23 
Sulphate  of  lime      ....    1.12 

lUU.OO 


^ 


ilrcd  miles,  witli  wofxl  miJ 
lit  jfrnHH.  The  MormouB 
omxclves  on  tlin  strait  bo- 
tes, ami  will  Hud  Kiitficient 
rgo  soltlemi'iit — iiiipnrtniit 
intermoiliatc  bctwiu'ii  thd 
nd  llio  I'ucitic  occnii,  and 
iiniuiiiciitiun  to  Culil'uriiia 

lit  thirty-fivo  milos  lonp, 
ur  the  iiiimL'rouH  and  boul 
iceives,  corning  down  from 

tlio  soutlicust,  all  i'rcuh 

largo  formation  of  rock 
ed  clay,  w  found  within 
)iithca8t,  which  it  drains. 
Hiients  afford  largo  trout 
reat  numbers,  which  con- 
tho  UUih  Indiana  during 

The  Great  Salt  lake  has 
itline,  greatly  extended  at 
owe.  It  is  about  seventy 
K't.h  lakes  ranging  nearly 
I  conformity  to  tlio  range 
md  is  remarkable  for  ita 
lit.  The  whole  lake  wa- 
hly  saturated  with  it,  and 
of  tho  water  leaves  salt 
y  shores  of  the  islands  are 
iray,  which  loaves  salt  on 
chcs,  and  a  covering  like 
a  water,  which  the  waves 
ocks.  The  shores  of  the 
son,  when  the  waters  re- 
ly on  the  south  side,  are 
crustutions  of  tino  white 
arms  of  the  lake,  at  the 
I  slight  covering  of  briny 
Is  of  salt  for  miles,  re- 
icti,  into  which  the  horses' 
lock.     Plants  and  bushes, 

upon  these  fields,  are  cn- 
ith  crystallized  salt,  more 
ckness.  Upon  this  lake 
Iter  received,  though  great 
o  perceptible  effect.  No 
>  of  any  kind,  is  found  in 
he  shore  being  found  to 
nsects.  A  geological  ex- 
ed  and  shores  of  this  lake 
iterest. 
water  taken  from  this  lake 

September,  and  roughly 
ire,  gave  fourteen  pints  of 
:h  being  subjected  to  ana- 
jwing  proportions : 


parti. 

1  (common  salt) 

.  97.80 

n    . 

0.61 

Slum    . 

.    0.24 

•        •       • 

0.23 

•        •        • 

.     1.12 

lUU.OO 


UPON  UPiAR  CAiuilrORNIA. 


Snulhword  from  tho  Utah  i»  another  lake 
of  which  lilllft  more  is  now  known  than 
'viion  IIiunlH)ldt  published  his  general  map 
0*  Mexico.  It  is  the  reservoir  of  a  hanu- 
:<onie  river,  aliout  two  hundred  miles  lon^, 
rising  in  the  Wuh-satch  mounfiiiuH,  and  •dis- 
charging a  coiisideral)lo  volume  of  water. 
The  river  and  lake  were  called  by  the  Span- 
iards, Severo,  c■.^rrupted  by  the  hunters  into 
S^i'i'er.  On  the  map,  they  are  railed  \icol- 
In,  in  honor  of  J.  N.  Sicolki,  whoso  prema- 
ture death  interrupted  the  publication  of  the 
learned  work  on  tho  jihysical  geography  of 
the  basin  of  tho  Upper  Mississippi,  which  fivo 
years  of  labor  in  tlio  field  had  propiired  him 
to  give. 

On  tho  western  side  of  the  basin,  a!id 
immediately  within  tho  first  range  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  is  the  Pyramid  hike,  receiving 
the  water  of  Salmon  Trout  river.  It  is 
thirty-fivo  miles  Ung,  between  four  and  five 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  surrounded  by 
mountains,  is  remarkably  deep  and  clear,  and 
abounds  with  uncommonly  largo  salmon  trout. 
Southward,  along  the  base  of  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada, is  a  range  of  considerable  lakes,  form- 
ed by  many  largo  streams  from  tho  Sierra. 
Lako  Walker,  the  largest  among  these,  af- 
fords great  numbers  of  trout,  similar  to  those 
of  tho  Pyramid  lake,  and  is  a  place  of  resort 
for  Indians  in  tho  fishing  gcason. 

There  are  probably  other  collestions  of 
water  not  yet  known.  The  number  of  small 
lakes  is  very  great,  many  of  them  more  or 
less  salty,  and  all,  like  the  rivtvs  which  feed 
them,  changing  their  appearance  and  extent 
under  the  influence  of  the  season,  rising  with 
tlie  melting  of  tlie  snows,  sinking  in  the  dry 
weather,  and  distinctly  presenting  I  heir  high 
and  low  water  mark.  These  generally  afford 
some  fertile  and  well-watered  land,  capable 
of  settlement. 

Rivers  of  the  Oreat  Basin. — The  most 
considerable  river  in  the  interior  of  the  Great 
Basin  is  the  one  called  on  the  map  Humboldt 
river,  as  the  mountains  at  its  head  are  called 
Humboldt  river  mountains — so  called  as  a 
small  mark  of  respect  to  the  "  Nestor  of  scien- 
tific  travellers"  who  has  done  so  much  to 
illustrate  North  American  geography,  with- 
out leaving  his  name  upon  any  one  of  its 
remarkable  features.  It  is  a  river  long  known 
to  hunters,  and  sometimes  sketched  on  maps 
under  the  name  of  Mary's,  or  Ogden's,  but 
now  for  the  first  time  laid  down  with  any 
precision.  It  is  a  very  peculiar  stream,  and 
has  many  characteristics  of  an  Asiatic  river 
— the  Jordan,  for  example,  though  twice  as 
long — rising  in  mountains  and  losing  itself 
in  a  lake  of  its  own,  alter  a  long  and  solitary 
course.  It  rises  in  two  streams  in  moun- 
tains west  of  the  Great  Salt  lake,  which 
unite,  after  some  fifty  miles,  and  bears  west- 
wardly  along  tlie  northern  side  of  the  basin 


towords  the  Greot  Sierra  Nevada,  which  it  is 
destined  never  to  reach,  much  less  to  pass. 
The  mountains  in  which  it  rises  are  round 
and  han<S)iiio  in  their  outline,  capped  with 
snow  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  well 
clothed  with  anan  tnd  wood,  and  abundant 
in  «t1-.  *irc.  B.ieam  is  a  narrow  line, 
without  affluents  teing  b)  ;.K-iorption  and 
PVttiX)r»rtoii  aS  it  goes,  and  terminating  in  a 
marshy  lake,  with  low  shores,  fringed  with 
bulrushes,  and  whitened  with  saline  incrus- 
tations. It  lias  a  inodenitc  current,  is  from  two 
to  six  feet  deep  in  the  dry  season,  and  proba- 
bly not  fordable  any  where  below  tho  junction 
of  the  farks  during  the  time  of  melting  snows, 
when  both  lake  and  river  aro  considerably 
onmrged.  The  country  through  which  it 
passes  (except  its  immediate  valley)  is  a  dry 
sandy  plain,  without  grass,  wood,  or  arable 
soH  ;  from  about  4,700  feet  (at  the  forks)  to 
4,200  foot  (at  tho  lake)  ak)^  the  level  of 
tho  sea,  winding  among  broken  ranges  of 
mountains,  and  varying  from  a  few  miles  to 
twenty  in  breadth.  Its  own  inuuediato  val- 
ley is  a  rich  alluvion,  twautilVly  covered 
with  blue-grass,  herd-grass,  clover,  and  other 
nutritious  grasses  ;  and  its  cours'  is  marked 
through  the  plain  by  a  line  of  wiHow  and 
cotton-wood  trees,  serving  for  fuel.  The 
Indians  in  the  fall  set  fire  to  tho  grass,  and 
destroy  all  trees  except  in  low  grounds  near 
the  water. 

This  river  possesses  qualities  which,  in 
the  progress  of  events,  may  give  it  both 
value  and  fame.  It  lies  on  the  line  of  travel 
to  California  and  Oregon,  and  is  the  best 
route  now  known  through  the  Great  Basin, 
and  the  one  travelled  by  emigrants.  Its  direc- 
tion, nearly  east  and  west,  is  tho  right  course 
for  that  travel.  It  furnishes  a  level  unob- 
structed way  for  nearly  three  hundred  miles, 
and  a  continuous  supply  of  the  indispensable 
articles  of  water,  wood,  and  grass.  Its  head 
is  towards  the  Great  Salt  lake,  and  conse- 
quently towards  the  Mormon  settlement, 
which  must  become  a  point  in  the  lino  of 
emigration  to  California  a.id  the  lower  Co- 
lumbia. Its  termination  i''  within  fifty  miles 
of  the  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  oppo- 
site the  Salmon  Trout  river  pass — a  pass  only 
seven  thousand  two  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  less  than  half  that  above 
the  level  of  the  Basin,  and  leading  into  the  val- 
ley of  the  Sacramento,  some  forty  miles 
north  of  IJueva  Helvetia.  These  proper- 
ties give  to  this  river  a  prospective  value  in 
future  communications  with  the  Pacific 
ocean,  and  the  profile  view  on  the  north  of 
the  map  shows  the  elevations  of  tho  present 
travelling  route,  of  which  it  is  a  part,  from 
the  South  pass,  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  to 
the  bay  of  San  Francisco. 

The  other  principal  rivers  of  ttie  Great 
Basin  are  found  on  its  circumference,  col 


PH**^ 


10 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR 


li^'iiiifj  tlioir  wnfcru  Croin  tlm  Hnnwy  mniin- 
tiiiii-i,  wliirli  hiirnniiul  it,  mill  iirc,  I.  Hkau 
li.'vi.i;,  oil  till)  cMxt,  risiii)f  in  tlii'  iiiiiM!«ivo 
r.ui<;()  of  tlii>  'l'iiii|iaiio^o.>i  iiioiiiitiiiir*  and 
t.iliiiii,'  info  the  (irciit  Salt  lake,  aftt>r  a 
(louliliii^j  course  tliroii;r|i  u  I'crtiln  and  |)ictii- 
i('hii|iii'  \all(!y,  two  liiiiiilriMl  mill's  loiiK.  'J. 
Tlici  Utah  luvmt  ami  'I'impan ao/u or  'I'impa- 
M)i;i)s,  iliscliarjritii;  llicnisclvcs  into  tlio  Utah 
luki-  on  tlio  east,  alter  patlierin^  tlioir  roiii- 
oim  r'tieaniH  in  the  aiiioiiiiii;;  partx  of  tlio 
IVir'i-.va^c/i  uii(ri'iin|mimi,'os  inoiintnins.  3. 
Nicoi.i.KT  KivKK.  risiii!,'  south  ill  the  Ion;' 
raii^!  of  tlio  Wiik-snirk  iiiomituinH,  niiil 
falling  into  n  lake  of  its  own  name,  nfler 
inakiiij?  an  iiralde  and  tjnissy  valloy,  two 
hundred  miles  in  Icnirili,  tliroii)rh  nioiintaiii- 
ous  country.  4.  Salmon  Tkout  river,  on 
the  west,  runninfj  down  from  tlio  Sierra  Ne- 
vada mid  fallini;  into  Pyramid  lake,  nllor  a 
course  of  ahoiit  one  liiiiulrcd  niiios.  From 
its  source,  alKiiit  one-third  of  its  valley  is 
tlirou(rli  a  pine-tinitiercd  country,  and  for  the 
reniainiler  of  tli(>  way  through  vorv  rmiky, 
naked  ridf.'es.  It  is  remarkable  for  tlio  nbim- 
daiico  and  excellence  of  its  salmon  trout, 
and  presents  somo  (rround  for  riiltivatioii. 
6.  Causon  and  Wai.kku  rivers,  lioth  hand- 
some clear-water  streams,  nearly  one  ImndrotI 
miles  loni;,  comiiifr,  like  the  preccdinjr,  down 
tlio  eastern  flank  of  tlio  Sierra  Nevada  mid 
forminfj  lakes  of  their  own  name  at  its  Iwise. 
They  contain  salmon  trout  and  othor  fish, 
iind  form  somo  larjre  bottoms  of  ffioA  laiid. 
6,  Owens  kiver,  issuing  from  tlio  Sierm 
Nevada  on  the  south,  is  a  large  Ixild 
stream  aliout  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles 
long,  gatliering  its  waters  in  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada, Jlowing  to  the  southward,  and  forming 
a  lake  about  fifteen  miles  long  at  the  base  ot 
tlie  mountain.  At  n  medium  stjige  it  is  gon- 
3raily  four  or  five  feet  deep,  in  places  fifteen ; 
wooded  with  willow  and  cotton-wood,  and 
makes  contiiinnus  Ixittoms  of  fertile  lond,  at 
Intervals  rendoreil  marshy  by  springs  and 
small  affluents  from  the  mountain.  The 
water  of  the  lake  in  which  it  terminates  has 
an  unpleasant  smell  and  bad  taste,  but 
around  its  shores  arc  found  small  streams  of 
pure  water  with  gootl  grass.  On  the  map 
tills  has  liccn  called  Owens  river. 

Besides  these  principal  rivers  issuing  from 
the  mountains  on  the  circumference  of  tlie 
Great  Basin,  there  are  many  others,  all 
around,  all  olwying  the  general  law  of  losing 
themselves  in  sands,  or  lakes,  or  belts  of 
alluvion,  and  almost  all  of  them  an  index 
to  some  arable  land,  with  grass  and  wood. 

IrUcrinr  of  the  Great  Basin. — The  interior 
of  tho  Great  Basin,  so  far  as  explored,  is 
found  to  bo  a  succession  of  sharp  mountain 
ranges  and  naked  plains,  such  as  have  been 
described.  Those  ranges  are  isolated,  pre- 
senting  Bununit  lines   broken   into   many 


peakx.  of  which  tlm  highest  are  liotwecn  (en 
and  eleven  tliiiiisalid  feet  alxtve  tlio  sen. 
They  are  thinly  wooded  with  somo  varielie-i 
of  pine,  (piiiiis  mimi^ihijUnn  characteristic,) 
cfHlar.  a-pon,  and  a  few  other  trees;  and  rsi- 
ford  an  excellent  quality  of  bunch  grn^y, 
(Hiual  to  any  found  in  the  Rocky  iiioiintaiiH. 
liiuck-taileu  deer  and  inountain  i-lieep  ar<j 
freiiuonf  in  thestt  mountains  ;  which,  in  con- 
sideration of  their  grass,  water,  and  wo<xl, 
and  the  alluvion  at  their  base,  may  I.e  called 
fertile,  in  the  radical  sense  of  the  word,  as 
signifying  a  ca)«city  to  produce,  or  liear,  and 
in  contradistinction  to  sterility.  In  this  senso 
these  interior  mountains  may  Ix-  called  fertile. 
Sterility,  on  the  contrary,  is  the  absolute 
characteristic  of  the  valleys  between  tho 
mountains — no  wood,  no  water,  no  grass ; 
the  ghximy  artemisin  the  prevailing  shrub- 
no  animals,  except  the  hares,  wV:;h  shelter 
in  these  shrubs,  and  fliH't  and  timid  antelope, 
always  on  tho  watch  for  danger,  and  finding 
no  pfaco  too  dry  and  barren  which  gives  it  a 
wide  horizon  for  its  view  and  a  clear  field  for 
its  flight.  No  birds  are  seen  in  the  plains, 
and  few  on  tho  mountains.  But  few  Indians 
are  found,  and  tiioso  in  tho  lowest  state  of 
human  existence ;  living  not  even  in  com- 
munities, but  in  tho  elementary  state  of  fa- 
milies, and  sometimes  a  single  individual  to 
himsoif — except  aliout  tho  lakes  stocked  with 
fish,  which  liccomo  the  property  and  resort 
of  a  small  trilx?.  The  abundance  and  excel- 
lence of  the  fish,  in  most  of  these  lakes,  is  a 
characteristic ;  and  tho  fishing  season  is 
to  the  Indians  tho  happy  season  of  the 
year. 

Climate  of  the  Great  Basin. — Tho  climate 
of  the  Great  Basin  docs  not  present  the  rigor- 
ous winter  due  to  its  elevation  and  mountain- 
ous structure.  Observations  made  during 
the  last  expedition,  show  that  around  the 
southern  shores  of  the  Salt  lake,  latitude  40" 
30',  to  41°,  for  two  weeks  of  the  month  of 
October,  1836,  from  tho  13th  to  the  27th, 
the  mean  temperature  was  40"  at  sunrise, 
70"  at  noon,  and  64°  at  sunset ;  ranging  at 
sunrise  from  28°  to  57°  ;  at  noon  from  62" 
to  76° ;  at  four  in  the  afternoon,  from  68" 
to  69"  ;  and  at  sunset,  from  47"  to  67°. 

Until  the  middle  of  the  month  the  weather 
remained  fair  and  very  pleasant.  On  the 
16th,  it  began  to  rain  in  occasional  showers, 
which  wliitened  with  snow  the  tops  of  the 
mountains  on  the  south-eastern  side  of  the 
valley.  Flowers  wore  in  bloom  during  all 
the  month.  About  the  18th,  on  one  of  tlie 
largo  islands  in  tho  south  of  the  lake,  heliatt' 
thus,  several  species  of  aster,  erndium,  cicU" 
tarium,  and  several  other  plants,  were  in 
fresh  and  full  bloom  ;  the  grass  of  the  sec- 
ond growth  was  coming  up  finely,  and  vege- 
tation, generally,  betokened  the  lengthened 
summer  of  tlie  climate. 


'L. 


>  liipliput  nro  liofwrcH  I'^n 
ml  I't'ct  iiIk)Vh  tlio  con. 
)(m1(mI  with  ("onin  viiriflir.M 
nDjihi/llii:*  clinmcf eristic,) 
fpw  ollior  troiM;  nml  »•'- 
qimlify  of  biindi  i;rnfy, 
ill  tlio  Rocky  iiioiiiitaiiir. 
tiid  iiioiiiitaiii  hluM'p  nT<i 
oiinfniiis  ;  wiiicli,  in  con- 
(jnisH,  wiifrr,  und  \vo<xl, 
their  hasp,  miiy  i,e  riilipfl 
nl  Bptirip  of  Iho  word,  iir 
yfo  prodll(•(^  or  Ix^nr,  iiml 
toKlorility.  Ill  thif  HPI180 
lainx  limy  Iw  caijpd  fprtilo. 
nntniry,  i«  llio  iibHohito 
ho  viiiloys  hptwcen  tho 
nd,  no  wiittT,  no  pniaH  ; 
n  the  prcvnilinfj  Hhnil>— 
tho  hares,  w!u:li  shelter 
1  (Iwt  and  timid  antelope, 
h  for  (lunger,  and  finding 
1  luirren  which  jrives  it  a 
view  nnd  a  cleiir  field  for 
;  lire  pcen  in  the  plains, 
ntnins.  But  few  Indians 
le  in  the  lowest  state  of 
living  not  even  in  cora- 
j  eieinontary  state  of  fa- 
icH  a  Hinglo  individual  to 
nt  tho  lakes  stocked  with 
the  property  and  resort 
'he  ubundnnco  and  excel- 
most  of  these  lakes,  is  a 
I  the  fishing  season  ia 
)  happy  season  of  the 

•eat  Basin, — Tho  climate 
iocs  not  present  the  rigor- 
I  elevation  and  mountain- 
iscrvations  made  during 
show  that  around  the 
he  Salt  lake,  latitude  40" 
weeks  of  the  month  of 
m  the  13th  to  tho  27th, 
;ure  was  40'  at  sunrise, 
°  at  sunset ;  ranging  at 
)  57°  ;  at  noon  from  62° 
the  afternoon,  from  58° 
let,  from  47°  to  67°. 
)f  the  month  the  weather 
very  pleasant.  On  the 
n  in  occasional  showers, 
;h  snow  tho  tops  of  the 
louth-eastern  side  of  the 
Bre  in  bloom  during  all 
the  18th,  on  one  of  the 
south  of  the  lake,  helioTt- 
3  of  asler,  erndmm,  «««■ 
1  other  plants,  were  in 
fi ;  the  grass  of  the  sec- 
ling  up  finely,  and  vege- 
itokeoed  the  lengthened 
ate. 


UPON  UrPBin  CALIFOKNIA. 


II 


Tho  Ifith,  I7lli,  iinil  18(h,  utonny  with 
rain;  licnvy  nt  ni^iit ;  iicnkH  of  tiut  IJcur 
river  rangd  and  lops  of  tin'  nioiiiitainM  cov- 
ered with  >ii>i\v.  On  till'  IHtli,  cleared  with 
wenthor  iil,  'lat  of  lute  spring,  nnd  coii- 
liniipd  mild  mid  clear  until  tho  end  of  the 
month.  wIiPii  the  line  weather  was  again  iii- 
tprru[)ted  by  a  (l:iv  or  two  of  rain.  No  hmow 
within  'J.OiiO  feel  above  tho  level  of  tho  valli>y. 
Ai-ross  llie  interior,  between  latitudes  11° 
and  38°.  (luring  llie  laoiilh  of  November, 
(6th  to^Stli.)  the  mean  teiu|K'mturo  was  'J',)" 
at  sunrise,  and  10°  at  Huiisot ;  ranging  at 
ncKHi  (by  (li>taclie(l  oliservatioiirt)  betwcoii  41" 
and  <i()°,  'I'liPH!  was  a  simw  storm  btitwoon 
tlie  4th  und  7lh,  the  snow  falling  principally 
at  night,  and  huh  occiiHioimlly  hnrnking  out 
in  tho  day.  Tlio  lower  hills  and  valleys 
\voro  covered  a  few  inclios  deep  with  snow, 
<»  hich  tho  sun  curried  off  in  a  few  hours  after 
U«  storm  was  over. 

The  weather  then  continued  uninterrupt- 
edly open  utitil  tho  close  of  the  year,  withoiit 
rain  or  snow  ;  and  during  tho  remainder  of 
November,  gcm^rally  clour  and  beautiful ; 
nights  and  morningii  calm,  a  light  breeze  du- 
ring tho  day,  and  strong  winds  of  very  rare 
occurrence.  Snow  remained  only  on  tho 
peaks  of  the  mountjiinH. 

On  tho  western  side  of  tho  basin,  along 
the  base  of  tho  Sierra  Nevada,  during  two 
weeks,  from  tho  tJSth  November  to  tho  11th 
December,  the  moan  tcmpcraturo  at  sunrise 
was  1 1°,  and  at  sunset  34° ;  ranging  at  sun- 
rise from  zero  to  ai",  at  sunset  from  23°  fo 
44°.  For  ton  consecutive  days  of  the  sumo 
period,  the  moai!  tompemtu.o  at  noon  was 
46°,  ranging  from  33°  to  66°. 

Tho  weather  remained  open,  usually  very 
clear,  and  tho  rivers  wore  frozen. 

The  winter  of  '43-44,  within  tho  basin, 
was  remarkabin  for  the  same  open,  pleasant 
weather,  rarely  interrupted  by  rain  or  snow. 
In  fact,  there  is  nothing  in  the  climate  of 
this  gieat  interior  region,  elevated  as  it  is, 
and  surrounded  and  traversed  by  snowy 
mountains,  to  iirevont  civilized  man  from 
making  it  his  home,  and  finding  in  its  arable 
parts  the  means  of  a  comfortable  subsis- 
tence ;  and  this  the  Mormons  will  probably 
soon  prove  in  tho  parts  about  tho  Great  Salt 
lake.  The  progress  of  their  settlement  ia 
already  great.  On  tho  first  of  April  of  the 
present  year,  they  had  3,000  acres  in  wheat, 
seven  saw  and  grist  mills,  seven  hundred 
houses  in  a  fortified  inclosure  of  sixty  acreft, 
stock,  and  other  accompaniments  of  a  flour- 
ishing settlement. 

Such  is  the  Greet  Basin,  heretofore  char- 
acterized OS  a  desert,  and  in  some  respects 
meriting  that  appellation;  but  already  de- 
manding the  qualification  of  groat  exceptions, 
and  deserving  the  full  examination  of  a  thor- 
ough exploration. 


MAitiriMi: 


IlKOION     WK.1T    OF     Tilt;     SIRItRA 
NKVADA. 


Wr.HT  of  the  SiKKiiA  Nkvada,  and  Iw- 
twoeii   that   inoiiiitiiin   and   the  sea,  is  the 
Hpcoiid  grand  division  of  ('aliliiriiia,  and  the 
only  jiart  to  which  the  name  a[>plie.i  in  tho 
current  language  of  the  couiilrv.     It  is  tho 
occupied  und  inhabited  jjurt,  and  i-o  diireronl 
ill  cli:iract(>r — .so  divided    by  I  be   nioiiiitain 
Willi  ol    t!i,'  Sie;r:i  fvom   l!ir  (irenl    Basin 
nbove — us  to  constitute  a  region   lo  itsolf, 
with  a  structuro  and  configuration — a  soil, 
diinato,  and  prfMlnctioiis — of  its  uivn ;  and 
as  northern  I'orsia  may  be  referred   to  as 
Homo  typo  of  tho  fornior,  so  may  Italy  bo  re- 
ferred to  as  some  point  of  comparison  for  tho 
latter.     North  an(i  south,  this  region  embra- 
ces al)out  ton  degrees  of  latitude — from  32°, 
where  it  touches  tho  peninsula  of  (California, 
to  42°,  where  it  lx)Hiids  on  Oregon.     East 
and  west,  from  the  Siorrn  Nevada  to  the  sea, 
it  will  average,  in  tho  middle  parts,  160  miles ; 
in  the  northern  parts  200 — giving  an  area  of 
above  one  humlrcd  thousaml  siiuuro  miles. 
Ijooking  westward  from  tho  summit  of  the 
Sierra,  tho  main  feature  piosontod   ia   the 
long,  low,  broad  valley  of  tho  Joaquin  and 
Sacramento  rivers — the  two  valleys  forming 
one — five  hundred  miles  long  and  fifly  broad, 
lying  along  tlie  base  of   tho  Sierra,  and 
bounded  to  tho  west  by  tho  low  coast  range 
of  mountains,  which  separates  it  from  the 
sea.    Long  dark  lines  of  timl)or  indicate  the 
streams,  and  bright  spots  murk  tho  interve- 
ning plains.    Lateral  ranges,  parallel  to  the 
Sierra  Nevada  and  tho  coast,  make  the  struc- 
ture of  tho  country  and  break  it  into  a  sur- 
face of  valleys  and  mountains — the  valleys  a 
few  hundred,  and  tho  mountains  two  to  four 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea.    Those  form 
greater  masses,  and  become  more  elevated  in 
tho  north,  whore  some  peaks,  as  tho  ShaatI, 
enter    tho   regions  of   pcrpe^'tul    snow. — 
Stretched  along  the  mild  coahi  of  tho  Pa- 
cific, with  a  general  elevation  in  its  plains 
and  valleys  of  only  a  few  hundred  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea — and  backed  by  tlie  long 
and  lofty  wall  of  tho  Sierra — mildnoHa  and 
geniality  may  be  assume*!  as  the  character- 
istic of  its  climate.    The  inhabitant  of  cor- 
responding latitudes  on  tho  Atlantic  side  of 
this  continent  can  with  difficulty  conceive  of 
tho  soft  air  and  southern  productions  under 
the  same  latitudes  in  the  maritime  region  of 
Upper  California.    The  singular  beauty  and 
purity  of  the  sky  in  the  south  of  this  region 
is  characterized  by  Humboldt  as  a  rare  phe- 
nomenon, and  all  travellers  realize  the  truth 
of  his  description. 

The  present  condition  of  the  country  af- 
fords but  slight  data  for  fc/rming  correct 
opinions  of  the  agricultural  cap/icity  and  fer- 
tility of  tiie  soil.    VoiicouTer  found,  at  the 


Iff 


OEOORAPIIICAI.  MKMOIR 


I 


mix)'!"!)  nf  Sim  nnonnvpiihim,  in  nnj,  laii- 
tilde  ;1 1"  Pi',  ii|i|ili'-i,  [M'ar-t,  iilmn-',  ti;.''*,  oniii- 
(fiw,  yrii()('-i,  |n'nrlii'^,  iiiiil  |Mimi'i;riiiiiili'<, 
^rrowiii;;  Iniriilu'r  sviili  tlic  |i1iintiiln,  Ikimmiiii, 
CdciKiiiiif,  MiiXi"*''"'""*"  '""'I  imliifo,  nil  yit'ld- 
iti;;  Iriiit  ill  iiliiiiuiiiiu'c  mill  <>!  cxri'iliMit 
(jiiiility.  lliiiiilKililt  iiioiitioiH  llio  iillvi'iijl  of 
(.'MiifMriiiii  iH  t'ljiiiil  Id  tliiit  of  AikIiiIiimIii,  iiiuI 
the  will!'  like  llmt  nl'  tjic  Caimry  hImiiU 
At  iircsciil.  Iiiit  little  rinnitiiHol' tlio  lii^li  unci 
vnriiiiiK  ciiltiviition  wliicli  liiul  U'ow  iiltaiiu'ii 
at  tlic  inisnidiM.  IfmltT  tlio  mild  iiiul  palcr- 
linl  iidiniiiiHtralion  id'  tlio  "  t'alhers,"  tin'  di)- 
cilo  cliiirartcriir  tlit>  liulinnx  was  niado  availa- 
ble for  IiiImh',  and  tliotiHandrt  were  oinployed 
in  llio  fields,  the  orclmrdi<,  niul  the  vineyardH. 
At  prewMit,  lint  little  of  tlii>*  Conner  cultiva- 
tion ix  Hi'en.  The  fertile  vnlloyn  iire  ovor- 
jrrown  with  wild  inimtnrd ;  vineynrdu  and 
olivo  orclianlH,  decayed  nnd  neglected,  nro 
arnoHK  the  reniainini;  ve«ti({os  ;  only  in  wime 
places  du  xs'e  nee  tlio  ovidenccH  of  what  t!io 
country  in  capalile.  At  Han  Bueiiavontiirn 
we  found  the  olive  treen,  in  January,  bendinj^ 
under  the  weight  of  nei;lected  fruit ;  and  the 
nilHHion  of  San  I.uIh  {)ijinpo  (latitude  36°)  in 
Btill  diHtinj^iiished  for  the  excellencu  of  itH 
oliveH,  considered  llnor  nnd  larger  than  those 
of  the  Mediternincnn. 

The  prtMhutions  of  the  south  differ  from 
those  ot  the  north  nnd  of  the  middle.  Grapes, 
olives,  Indian  corn,  linvn  been  its  Btnplcs, 
with  many  usHimilnted  fruits  nnd  grains.  To- 
bacco has  ken  ri'cently  introduced  nnd  the 
unifonn  suminer  heat  which  follows  the  wet 
season,  nnd  is  uninterrupted  by  rain,  would 
make  the  southern  country  well  udaptcd  to 
cotton.  Wheot  is  the  first  product  of  the 
north,  where  it  always  constituted  the  prin- 
clpl  cnltivirtion  of  the  missions.  This  promi- 
ses to  be  the  {Train  prowing  region  ot  Cali- 
fornia. Tim  moisture  of  the  coast  seems 
particularly  suited  to  the  potato  and  to  the 
vegetables  common  to  the  United  States, 
which  grow  to  an  extraordiiury  size. 

Perhaps  few  parts  of  the  world  can  pro- 
duce in  such  perfection  so  great  a  variety  of 
fruits  and  grains  as  the  large  nnd  vnrious  re- 
gion inclosing  the  boy  of  Snn  Francisco, 
nnd  drained  by  its  waters.  A  view  of  the 
map  will  show  that  region  and  its  great 
extent,  comprehending  the  entire  valleys  of 
the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin,  and  the 
whole  western  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 
General  phrases  fail  to  give  precise  ideas, 
and  I  have  recourse  to  the  notes  in  my  jour- 
nal to  show  its  climate  nnd  productions  by 
the  test  of  the  thermometer  and  the  state  of 
the  vegetable  kingdom. 

VALLEYS  OF  THE  SACRAMENTO  AMD  SAK  JOA- 
QUIN. 

Tliese  valleys  nro  one,  discriminnted  only 
kgr  the  names  of  the  rivers  which  traverse  it. 


It  H  a  "ini^le  vall^v — n  ningle  geojjniphinii 
liiriiiiiticin — iieir  ftuo  niilen  King,  lymtT  at  tin? 
western  Ixisi-  of  the  Sierra  Nevtwl  i,  and  be- 
tween It  and  the  ciNist  riin>|e  i  iiinl.iins, 
and  sirelcliintf  acrtws  llie  lieud  nt  tim  b^y 
ol  Sun  Francisco,  with  which  a  ihlia  ot 
twenty-live  miles  roiiin'cts  it.  The  two 
rivers,  San  Joa(|iiin  and  Sucinineiito,  rise  nt 
o|i|)OT.iti>  eiids<ir  this  long  valley,  receive  iiu- 
nieroiis  strenins,  iimiiy  of  tlicin   IkiM  rivers, 

from  the  Sierra  Nevada,  Imt e  tlieiiiselves 

navigable  rivers,  (low  toward  each  other, 
meet  half  way,  and  enter  the  buy  of  Sun 
Francisco  totfetiier,  in  the  region  of  tide 
water,  iiiiiking  a  continuous  water  lino  from 
one  end  to  the  other. 

The  valley  of  the  Sun  Joaquin  is  ulxiut 
.100  miles  long  nnd  (iO  broad,  iK-tween  the 
slopes  of  the  const  moiinlain  and  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  with  a  general  elovution  of  only  n 
few  hundred  feet  aliove  the  level  of  the  sea. 
It  presents  a  variety  of  soil,  from  dry  and 
unproductive  to  well  watered  and  luxuriantly 
fertile.  The  eastern  (which  is  the  fertile) 
side  of  the  volley  is  interceded  with  numer- 
ous streams,  forming  largt  ;r,id  very  bciutiful 
Inittoms  of  fertile)  land,  i,(K)ded  principally 
with  white  crnka  (i/un-cu:  limiri^liimla,  Torr. 
nnd  Frem.)  in  open  groves  of  Imndsonio 
trees,  often  five  or  six  feet  in  diameter,  ond 
sixty  to  eighty  feet  high.  Only  the  larger 
streams,  wtiich  are  fifty  to  one  hundred  nnd 
fifty  yards  wide,  nnd  uruin  the  upper  parts 
of  the  mountains,  pass  entirely  across  the 
valley,  forming  the  Tulare  lakes  and  the  San 
Joaquin  river,  which,  in  the  rainy  season, 
make  a  continuous  strenm  from  the  fiead  of 
the  valley  to  the  bay.  'Y\\cfml  hills  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  which  limit  the  valley,  make 
a  woodland  country,  diversified  with  undu- 
lating grounds  and  pretty  valleys,  and  woter- 
cd  witn  numerous  small  (■Iroams,  which 
reach  only  n  few  miles  beyond  the  hills,  the 
springs  which  supply  them  not  being  copious 
enough  to  cnrry  them  across  the  plains. 
These  aflbni  many  advantageous  spots  for 
farms,  making  sometimes  large  bottoms  of 
rich  moist  land.  The  rolling  surface  of  the 
hills  presents  sunny  exposures,  sheltered 
from  the  winds,  and  having  n  highly  favora- 
ble climate  and  suitable  soil,  nro  considered 
to  be  well  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  the 
grape,  and  will  probably  become  the  princi- 
pal vine  growing  region  of  California.  The 
uplands  bordering  the  valleys  of  the  largo 
streams  are  usually  wooded  with  evergreen 
onks,  nnd  the  intervening  plains  are  timbered 
with  groves  or  l)clts  of  evergreen  and  whiie 
oaks  among  prairie  and  open  land.  The 
surface  of  the  valley  consists  of  level  plains 
olong  the  Tulari  lakes  and  San  Joamun 
:  river,  changing  into  undulating  and  rolling 
groimd  nearer  the  foot  hills  of  the  moun- 
tains. 


I 


UPON  (Jri'KIl  CALIFORNIA 


n 


— n  •Incr'*'  Ri'ojiriiphlra'i 
iiiiici  \ni\<i,  lym;,'  ul  111'? 
Sii-rrn  Nfv  il  i.  iiml  bti- 
iKt  niii^c  I  Hinlainn, 
HA  llic  lii<u<i  ui  tlio  U'Y 
with  wliifti  n  il'llrt  cit 
riiimi'ctn  it.  'I'll"  two 
mill  SiicifiiiKMiti),  riso  ul 
I  >(pii((  viilli'y,  rcci'ivo  iiu- 
iiiv  of  tliiMii  Iwilil  riviTH, 
ai'cia,  Imthiiic  tln'iiisclvim 
(iw   lowiiril    I'licli   iilliT, 

I  enter  I  lie  Imy  of  Sun 
,  in  tlie  rej{ioii  of  tiilo 
iitimiouH  water  lino  from 

0  Sun  J(>ii(|iiin  ii*  ulx)Ut 
()()  lironil,  iM'tweeii  tlio 

niniiiiiain  niul  tlio  Sierra 
loral  eleviitioii  of  only  n 
Imvo  the  level  of  tho  MCn. 
ty  of  Hoii,  from  dry  and 

II  watered  uiid  liixiiriontly 
m  (which  ix  the  fertile) 

1  inter^:ncted  with  niimor- 
g  lurgi  ;r.ul  very  beautiful 
land,  niKxIed  jirincipally 
ttrchi  tonaifilnmla,  Torr. 
len  (frovei*  of  Imndsomo 
xix  feet  in  diameter,  and 
t  iiij,'h.     Only  tho  larger 

fifty  to  one  hundred  and 
nd  uruin  tho  uppor  parts 
pass  entirely  ncrogs  tho 
Tulare  hikes  and  tho  San 
ch,  in  the  miny  season, 
stream  from  the  head  of 
»y.  Thc/'xi/  hilh  of  the 
ich  limit  tho  valley,  make 
■y,  diversiticd  with  undu- 
pretty  valleys,  und  woter- 
m  small  streams,  which 
liles  beyond  the  hills,  the 
)ly  them  not  being  copious 
them  across  the  plains. 
jr  advantageous  spots  for 
netimes  largo  bottoms  of 
["he  rolling  surface  of  the 
my  exposures,  sheltered 
d  havii>g  a  highly  favora- 
itablo  soil,  aro  considered 
to  tho  ciillivution  of  the 
Dbably  become  the  princi- 
e<jion  of  California.  The 
The  valleys  of  tho  lorge 
ly  wooded  with  evorpfreen 
vening  plains  nre  timbered 
ts  of  evergreen  and  white 
■ie  and  open  land.  The 
ey  consists  of  level  plains 

lakes  and   San  Joaquin 
to  undulating  and  rolling 

foot  hills  of  the  inoun- 


^  ronilenced  nn|i 'o  friiin  olwrrvatioiH, 
.if'ili-  ijiir'iijr  neveml  lOiirneyH  thniiigh  the 
,n!li  y,  will  «erve  li>  yive  isoiue  'loflnlto  lilcni* 
iif  il-<r|liriMte  niul  rhumrter. 

We  lel'l  the  ii|i|i('r  ''llleineiit«  ul  Now 
Il'lvetiii  cm  III''  1  nil  Deci'iiii.'T,  imd.  iKissiiia 
ihroiii;!!  the  \i\<>\>  it  oiik  wliirli  I  "nler  the 
itici  lie  loH  AiiieruMi,  '.  ilircrled  nui  .  (Hirso 
ill  a  Hoiitheaiterlv  ilinc;(|ti|i  urriws  a  plain 
!t)waril  the  Itio  lie  liw  ('(m«iiiii-nef<,  a  hand- 
Home,  wi'II-woimIimI  >lreiuii,  mIioiii  (liirty  yards 
wide.  The  CoH-iiiii-ne  IndiiiiiH,  who  yive 
name  to  thin  river,  have  Ikhmi  driven  awiiy 
from  it  within  a  few  years,  and  dis()rriied 
among  other  IrilxM ;  and  Hevcral  liiriiH,  of 
»()ine  leagues  in  extent,  have  already  b»>en 
eHiahlished  on  the  lower  part  of  tho  stream. 
We  eni'aiii|M'd  at  one  of  thiMe,  about  eight 
miles  aliove  the  jimetion  of  the  Cos-um-no 
river  with  the  Mo-kel-iini-iie,  which  a  few 
miles  l)elow  enters  ii  deep  slough  in  the  tide 
vater  of  the  San  Joaquin  ilHui. 

At  this  plrtci)  tho  temperature  at  sunset 
Rtts  65",  and  at  siinriso  '27°. 

Our  rond  on  the  lAth  was  over  tho  plain 
between  tho  (,'os-um-ni)  and  Mo-kel-um-ne 
rivers,  inclining  toward  the  moiintjiins.  Wo 
crossed  Hoveriil  wooded  sloughs,  with  ponds 
of  deep  water,  which,  nearer  tho  foot  hills, 
aro  running  streams,  with  largo  liottoms  of 
fertile  land ;  tho  greater  part  of  our  way 
being  through  open  woods  of  evergreen  and 
other  oaks.  The  rainy  season,  which  com- 
monly begin-*  with  November,  had  not  yet 
commenced,  and  the  Mo-kcUtim-no  river  was 
at  the  lowest  stage  usual  to  tho  dry  season, 
and  easily  forded.  This  stream  is  alwut  sixty 
yards  wide,  and  tho  immediate  valley  some 
thirty  or  forty  feet  Wow  the  upland  plain. 
It  has  liroiid  alluvial  bottoms  of  very  fertile 
soil — sometimes  five  hundred  yards  wide, 
bounded  by  a  low  upland,  wooded  with  over- 
green  oaks.  The  weather  in  tho  evening 
was  calm,  tho  sky  mottled  with  clouds,  and 
the  temperature  at  sunset  A2*'. 

Leaving  tho  Mo-kel-um-ne,  (December 
16,)  we  travelled  about  twenty  miles  through 
opon  woods  of  white  oak,  crossing  in  the 
way  several  stream  beds — among  them  the 
Calaveras  creek.  These  have  abundant 
water,  with  gixxl  land  above  ;  and  tho  Calav- 
eras makes  some  remarkably  handsome  bot- 
toms. Issuing  from  tho  woo<U,  wo  rode 
abont  sixteen  miles  over  an  open  prairie, 
partly  covered  with  bunch-grass,  the  timber 
reappearing  on  the  rolling  hills  of  the  river 
Stanislaus  in  the  usual  belt  of  evergreen 
oaks.  The  river  valley  was  about  forty  feet 
below  the  upland,  and  the  stream  seventy 
yards  broad,  making  the  usual  fertile  bottoms, 
which  here  were  covered  with  green  grass 
amung  large  oaks.  We  encamped  in  one 
of  these  bottoms,  in  a  grove  of  the  large 
wliite  oakr  ■pr'^viously  mentioned,  as  quercus 


I'liiiiifiliiiiilii  (Tiirr.  and  Ffm.)  Tlii-i  naK 
i*  a  new  i<(M'cie<,  Ih'I  intjiui;  to  llie  iliNiHicjn 
of  white  oiil<»,  di^liiigiii-lied  liy  the  leii;r|||  of 
its  Mi'oni,  which  i^  ciiiiniioiily  an  inch  and  a 
hair,  and  MimetinieM  two  inche-i.  Tins  long 
acorn  cliaracleri/.es  the  tree,  which  lia.4  ac* 
ciirrlingly  lK<en  N|M<cllled  hy  l>r.  i'orrey  as 
ijifrriiH  lim^ifflanda  —  (loiig-acnrii  miU.*) 
riie  tree  attains  fremieiilly  a  iliameter  of  six 
feet,  iitiil  a  lieiuht  ol  eighty  feet,  with  a  wide 
unreailinjr  held  The  many  varieties  of  do- 
ciiiiioiM  and  evergli-eil  oiiks,  which  preiioiu- 
iiliite  thmKghoiit  the  valleys  niid  lower  hills 
of  the  nuuiiitains,  atrord  large  quantities  of 
acorns,  which  constitute  the  principal  (tioil 
of  the  Indians  of  that  region.  Their  great 
abundance,  in  tho  midst  of  tine  pastiiro 
lands,  iniiNt  make  them  an  important  element 
in  the  agricultural  economy  of  the  country. 

The  (lay  had  U^en  very  warm,  and  at  sun- 
set the  tein|K)raturo  was  6ft'',  and  the  weiithor 
clear  nnd  calm. 

At  sunrise  next  morning,  tliu  therinnmctc; 
was  at  '2a°,  with  a  light  wind  from  the  Sierra, 
N.  76°  K.,  and  a  clear,  pure  sky,  in  which 
the  bliio  line  of  the  mountain  showed  dis- 
tinctly. The  way,  for  alxmt  three  miles,  was 
through  opon  wixxls  of  evergreen  and  other 
oaks,  with  somo  shrubbery  interiiilngled. 
Among  this  was  a  lupinim  of  extraordinary 
si7.e,  not  yet  in  bloom.  Kmcging  from  the 
woods,  wo  travelled  in  a  southeasterly  direc- 
tion, over  a  prairie  of  rolling  land,  the  ground 
becoming  somewhat  moro  broken  as  wo  ap- 
proached tho  T<)-wal-um-no  river,  one  of  the 
finest  tributaries  of  the  San  Joaquin.  Tho 
hills  were  generally  covered  with  a  species 
of  geranium,  (erodi'um  cicutarium,)  a  valua- 
ble plant  for  stock,  considered  very  nutritioui. 
With  this  was  frequently  interspersed  good 
and  green  buncii-grass,  and  a  plant  com- 
monly called  bur  clover.  This  plant,  which 
in  some  places  is  very  abundant,  bears  a  spi- 
rally twisted  pod,  tilled  with  seeds,  which  re- 
mains on  tho  ground  during  the  dry  season, 
well  preserved,  and  affords  good  food  for  cat- 
tle until  the  spring  rains  bring  out  now  grass. 
We  started  a  band  of  wila  horses  on  ap- 
proaching the  river,  and  the  Indiana  ran  off 
from  a  villago  on  tho  bank — the  men  lurking 
round  to  observe  us.  About  their  huts  were 
the  usual  acorn  crihs,  containing  each  some 
twenty  or  thirty  bushels.  We  found  here 
excellent  grass,  and  broad  bottoms  of  alluvial 
land,  open-wooded,  with  largo  white  oaks  of 
the  new  species.  Tho  thermometer,  at  sun- 
set, was  64'.6,  with  a  calm,  clear  atmos- 
phere. Multitudes  of  pceso  and  other  wild 
fowl  made  tho  night  noisy. 

In  tho  morning,  the  sky  was  clear,  with 
an  air  from  S.  66  E.,  and  a  hoar  frost  cover- 

*  The  nanwt  of  planti  menlionecl  in  thit  rntmoir  mt 
on  the  autliority  uf  Dr.  Torrey,  by  whom  the  •pooiowni 
I  have  been  ezaminad. 


14 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR 


injr  tlio  frroniul  like  a  light  fall  of  snow. 
At  Minri.-o,  tlin  tliprmoiiiPtor  was  'J4°.5.  Our 
course  now  incliinMl  nion?  towiirds  the  foot  of 
the  inoiiiitaiii,  iiiul  led  over  a  broken  coun- 
try. Ill  al)oiit  17  miles  we  reaclied  tlie  rivor 
Aii.\-iiir.-n',  aiKithor  larijo  alHiient  to  the 
San  .Ioaf|iiiii,  and  continued  about  six  miles 
U|)  the  stream.  iiibMidini;  to  reach,  gradually, 
the  heart  of  the  mountains  at  the  head  of  the 
Lak"  Fork  of  the  Tuldrd. 

VVc  encam[)ed  on  the  sotithern  side  of 
the  river,  where  broken  hills  made  a  steep 
bluff,  witli  n  niirrow  bottom.  On  the  north- 
ern side  was  a  low,  undulating  wood  and 
prairie  land, over  which  a  band  of  about  three 
hundred  elk  was  slowly  coming  to  water 
where  we  halted,  feeding  as  they  approached. 

December  I9lh. — The  weather  continued 
clear  and  pleasant.  We  continued  our  jour- 
ney in  a  southeasterly  direction,  over  a  broken 
and  hilly  country,  without  timher,  and  show- 
ing only  scattered  clumps  of  trees,  from 
which  we  occasionally  started  deer.  In  a 
few  hours'  ride  wo  reached  a  beautiful  coun- 
try of  undulating  upland,  openly  timbered 
with  oaks,  principally  evergreen,  and  watered 
with  small  streams.  We  came  hero  among 
some  villages  of  Indians,  of  the  horse-thief 
tribes,  who  received  us  in  an  unfriendly  man- 
ner ;  and,  after  a  busy  night  among  them, 
we  retreated  the  ne.xt  morning  to  the  more 
open  country  of  the  lower  hills.  Our  party 
was  then  a  small  one  of  16  men,  encumbered 
with  cattle,  which  we  were  driving  to  the 
relief  of  the  main  body  of  the  expedition, 
which  had  been  sent  southward  from  Walk- 
er's lake,  in  the  basin,  along  the  eastern  base 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  to  which  a  valley 
in  the  motmtain,  on  the  Tuldrd  I^ake  Fork, 
had  been  appointed  as  a  place  of  meeting. 

In  the  evening,  we  encamped  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  1,000  feet  above  the  sea,  latitude  37° 
07'  47",  still  among  the  hills,  on  a  spring  hol- 
low, leading  to  the  Upper  Joaquin  river. 
The  day  had  been  mild,  with  a  faint  sun,  and 
cloudy  weather ;  and,  at  sunset,  there  were 
some  light  clouds  in  the  sky,  with  a  north- 
easterly wind,  and  a  sunset  temperature  of 
45' ;  probably  rendered  lower  than  usual 
by  the  air  from  the  mountains,  as  the  foot- 
hills have  generally  a  warmer  temperature 
than  the  open  valley.  Elk  were  numerous 
during  the  day,  making,  on  one  occasion,  a 
broken  band,  several  miles  in  length. 

On  the  21st,  the  thermometer" at  sunrise 
was  32.6 ;  the  sky  slightly  clouded,  and,  in 
the  course  of  the  morning,  the  clouds  gathered 
heavy  in  the  southwest.  Our  route  lay  in  a 
Boutheasterly  direction,  toward  the  Upper 
Joaquin,  crossing  among  rolling  hills,  a  large 
stream  and  several  sandy  beds  of  afflue  its  to 
the  main  river.  On  the  trees  along  these 
streams,  as  well  as  on  the  hills,  I  noticed 
mosses.     About  2,  in  the    afternoon,  we 


reached  the  Upper  San  Joaquin,  The  stream 
was  here  about  70  yards  wide,  and  much  tw 
deep  to  be  forded.  A  little  way  Iwlow,  vvt^ 
succeeded  in  crossing,  at  a  rapid  made  by  u 
bed  of  rock,  below  which,  for  several  miles, 
the  river  appeared  deep  and  not  fordable. 
We  followed  down  the  stream  for  six  or 
eight  miles,  and  encamped  on  its  banks,  on 
the  verge  of  the  vallev  plain.  At  evening, 
rain  began  to  fall,  and,  with  this,  the  spring 
properly  commenced.  There  had  been  a  lit- 
tle rain  in  November,  but  not  sufficient  to 
revive  vegetation. 

Dscoiil/er  22. — The  temperature  at  sun- 
rise was  39".  There  had  been  heavy  rain 
during  the  .  ight,  with  high  wind,  and  this 
morning,  there  was  a  thick  fog,  which  began 
to  go  oil*  at  8  o'clock,  when  the  sun  broke 
through.  We  crossed  an  open  plain,  still  in 
a  southeasterly  direction,  reaching,  in  about 
twenty  miles,  the  Tulares  Lake  river.  This 
is  one  of  the  largest  and  handsomest  streams 
in  the  valley,  being  about  100  yards  broad, 
and  having,  perhaps,  a  larger  body  of  fertile 
land  than  any  other.  The  broad  alluvial 
bottoms  are  well  wooded  with  several  species 
of  oaks.  This  is  the  principal  affluent  to  the 
Taldrd  lake,  (the  bullrush  lake,)  a  strip  of 
water,  about  70  miles  long,  surrounded  by 
lowlands,  rankly  overgrown  with  buUrushes, 
and  receiving  all  the  rivers  in  the  southern 
end  of  the  valley.  In  times  of  high  water, 
the  lake  discharges  into  the  Joaquin,  making 
a  continuous  water  line  through  the  whole 
extent  of  the  valley. 

We  ascended  this  river  to  its  sources  in 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  about  50  miles  from  t\te  | 
edge  of  the  valley,  which  we  reached  again 
on  the  7th  of  January,  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  Tuldrd  lake.  We  found  the  temper- 
ature much  the  same  as  in  December.  Fogs, 
which  rose  from  the  lake  in  the  morning, 
were  dense,  cold,  and  penetrating,  but,  after 
a  few  hours,  gave  place  to  a  fine  day.  The 
face  of  the  country  had  been  much  improved 
by  the  rains  which  had  fallen  while  we  re- 
mained in  the  mountains.  Several  huiubie 
f)l.ints,  among  them  the  golden-flowered  vio- 
ot  (viola  cnisanlha)  and  erodium  cicutarium, 
the  first  valley  flowers  of  the  spring,  which 
conned  a  sunny  exposure  and  warm  sandy 
soil,  were  already  in  bloom  on  the  southwest- 
em  hill-slopes.  In  the  foot  hills  of  the  moun- 
tains the  bloom  of  the  flowers  was  earlier. 
We  travelled  among  multitudinous'  herds  of 
elk,  antelope,  and  wild  horses.  Several 
the  latter,  which  we  killed  for  food,  were 
found  to  be  very  fat.  By  the  middle  of  Jan- 
vary,  when  we  had  reached  the  lower  Sar 
Joaquin,  the  new  green  grass  covered  the 
ground  among  the  open  timber  on  the  rif  i: 
river  bottoms,  and  the  spring  vegetation  hi 
taken  a  vigorous  start. 
The  mean  temperature  in  the  Joaquin  vsl 


■■Ml 


"?an  Joaquin.  The  stream 
yards  wide,  and  iniicli  hH> 

A  little  way  Iwlnw,  VvC 
iiipf,  at  a  rapid  made  by  a 
which,  for  sovoral  miles. 

deep  and  not  fordable. 
•n  the  stream  for  si;;  or 
icamped  on  its  bankrf,  on 
alley  plain.  At  evening, 
and,  with  thin,  the  spring 
'd.  There  had  been  a  lit- 
dier,  but  not  sufficient  to 

The  temperature  nt  sun- 
lere  had  been  heavy  rain 
with  high  wind,  and  this 
3  a  thick  fog,  which  began 
lock,  when  tlie  sun  broke 
i.ssed  an  open  plain,  still  in 
rcction,  reacliing,  in  about 
Tularcs  Lake  river.  This 
st  and  handsomest  streams 
g  about  100  yards  broad, 
33,  a  larger  body  of  fertile 
thor.  The  broad  alluvial 
ooded  with  several  species 
the  principal  affluent  to  the 
bullrusli  lake,)  a  strip  of 
liles  h>ng,  surrounded  by 
)vergrown  with  buUrushes, 
the  rivers  in  the  southern 
In  times  of  high  water, 
IS  into  the  Joaquin,  making 
er  line  through  the  whole 

this  river  to  its  sources  in 
t,  about  50  miles  from  tlje 
r,  which  we  readied  again 
wary,  in  the  neighborhood 
le.  We  found  the  temper- 
imo  as  in  December.  Fogs, 
the  lake  in  the  morning, 
and  penetrating,  but,  after 
!  place  to  a  fine  day.  The 
y  had  been  much  improved 
h  had  fallen  while  we  re- 
ountains.  Several  h-jiuble 
3m  the  golden-flowered  vio- 
\a)  and  erodium  cicularium: 
owers  of  the  spring,  which 
exposure  and  warm  sandy 
in  bloom  on  the  southwest- 
n  the  foot  hills  of  the  moun- 
of  the  flowers  was  earlier. 
3ng  multitudinous"  herds  of 
!  wild  horse.s.  Several  of 
we  killed  for  food,  were 
fat.  By  the  middle  of  Jan- 
ad  reached  the  lower  Sar 
r  green  grass  covered  the- 
lie  open  timber  on  the  rif  i: 
I  the  spring  vegetation  b'i 
start, 
porature  in  the  Joaquin  val- 


UPON  UPPER  CALIFORNIA. 


16 


ley,  during  the  jonrncv,  from  the  middle  of 
December  to  the  miildlo  of  January,  was  at 
sunrise  29"  and  at  sunset  5'2°,  with  generally 
a  faint  breeze  from  the  snowy  mountains  in 
the  morning,  and  calm  weather  at  the  eve- 
ning. This  was  a  lower  temperature  than 
we  had  found  in  the  oak  region  of  the  moun- 
tains bordering  the  valley,  between  1000  and 
6000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  where, 
throughout  California,  I  have  remarked  the 
spring  to  be  more  forward  than  in  the  open 
valleys  below. 

During  a  journey  through  the  valley,  Iw- 
tween  the  head  of  the  Tuldri  lakes  and  the 
mouth  of  the  San  Joaquin,  from  the  19th 
January  to  the  12th  February,  the  mean 
temperature  was  38°  at  sunrise  and  63"  at 
sunset,  with  frequent  rains.  At  the  end  of 
January,  the  river  bottoms,  in  many  places, 
were  thickly  covered  with  luxuriant  grass, 
more  fhan  half  a  foot  high.  The  California 
poppy,  (Eschschohzia  Californica,)  the  cha- 
racteristic plant  of  the  California  spring; 
memophila  insignis,  one  of  the  earliest  flow- 
ers, growing  in  beautiful  fields  of  a  delicate 
blue,  and  erodium  cicutarium,  were  beginning 
to  show  a  scattered  bloom.  Wild  horses 
were  fat,  and  a  grisly  bear,  killed  on  the  2d 
February,  had  four  inches  thicltnesa  of  fat 
on  his  back  and  belly,  and  was  estimated  to 
weigh  a  thou!,and  pounds.  Salmon  was  first 
obtained  o--  the  4tn  February  in  the  To-wal- 
um-n6  river,  which,  according  to  the  Indians, 
is  tiie  most  southerly  stream  in  the  valley  in 
which  this  fish  is  found.  By  the  middle  of 
March,  the  whole  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin 
was  in  the  full  glory  of  spring ;  the  ever- 
green oaks  were  in  flower,  geranium  cicuta- 
rium was  generally  in  bloom,  occupying  the 
filace  of  the  grass,  and  making  on  all  the  up- 
ands  a  close  sward.  The  higher  prairies 
between  the  rivers  pre.wnted  uiibroken  fields 
of  yellow  and  orange-colored  flowers,  varie- 
ties of  Layia  and  EschschoUzia  Californica, 
ar.J  large  bou.|uets  of  the  blue  flowering 
nemophila  nearer  the  streams.  These  made 
the  prevailing  bloom,  and  the  sunny  hill- 
slopes  to  the  river  bottoms  showed  a  varied 
growth  of  luxuriant  flowers.  The  white 
oaks  were  not  yet  in  bloom. 

Observations  made  in  the  valley,  from  the 
bend  of  the  Joaquin  to  the  C<i3-uin-nd  river, 
give,  for  the  mean  temperature,  from  the  10th 
to  the  22d  March,  38°  at  sunrise  and  66°  at 
sunset,  the  dew  point  being  36°.7  at  sunrise, 
and  47''.6  at  sunset,  and  the  quantity  of 
moisture  contained  in  a  cubic  foot  of  air  being 
2.712  grains,  and  4.072  grains,  respectively. 

A  sudden  change  in  the  temperature  was 
remarked  in  passing  from  the  To-wal-nmrne 
to  the  Stanislaus  river,  there  being  no  change 
in  tlie  weather,  and  the  wind  continuing  from 
the  northwest,  t(j  which  we  were  more 
directly  exposed  on  reaching  the  Stanislaus 


river,  where  we  opened  (in  the  bay.  In  tra- 
velling down  to  the  StaiiL-^laus,  the  mean  tem- 
perature for  five  days  (from  the  11th  to  the 
16th)  was  40''.3  at  sunrise,  73°  at  4  p.  m., 
and  63°  at  sunset ;  and  detached  observations 
gave  66°  at  9  a.  m.,  77°  at  noon,  and  87°  at 
2  p.  ni. 

The  dew  point  was  38°.0,  55°.6,  54*>.3  ot 
sunrise,  at  4  in  the  afteriuxm,  and  at  sunset ; 
and  the  moisture  contained  in  a  cubic  foot  of 
air  2.878  grains,  6.209  grains,  and  4.927 
grains,  respectively. 

North  of  the  Stanislaus  for  five  days  (from 
16th  to  the  21st)  tlie  mean  was  36°.6  at  sun- 
rise, 67°  at  4  p.  m.,  and  49°  at  sunset.  The 
dew  point  was  34''.9  at  sunrise,  37°.  1  at  4 
p.  m.,  and  40°.9  at  sunset,  and  the  quantity 
of  moisture  in  a  cubic  foot  of  air  2.671  grains, 
2.983  grains,  and  3.216  grains,  at  the  corres- 
ponding times.  At  sunrise  of  the  16th,  on 
the  To-wal-um-ne,  the  thermometer  was  at 
43°,  and  at  sunrise  of  tlio  next  morning,  on 
the  Stanislaus,  at  36°. 

The  temperature  was  lowest  on  ine  night 
of  the  17th.  At  sunrise  of  the  morning  fol- 
lowing the  thermometer  was  at  27°,  and  it 
was  remarked  that  the  frost  aflected  several 
varieties  of  plants.  On  the  20th  and  21st 
there  were  some  showers  of  rain,  the  first 
since  the  end  of  February.  These  were 
preceded  by  south-westerly  winds. 

During  December  and  the  first  part  of 
January,  which  was  still  at  the  season  of  low 
waters,  we  were  easily  able  to  ford  all  the 
Juaquin  tributaries.  These  begin  to  rise 
with  the  rains,  and  are  kept  up  by  the  melt- 
ing snows  in  the  summer.  At  the  end 
of  January,  the  Joaquin  required  boating 
throughout  the  valley,  and  the  tributaries 
were  forded  with  difliculty. 

In  the  latter  part  of  AEarcli,  of  a  dry  sea- 
son, (1844,)  we  were  obliged  to  boat  the 
Stanislaus,  To-wal-um-ne,  and  Aiix-um-ne, 
and  the  San  Joaquin  was  nowhere  fordable 
below  the  bend  where  it  is  joined  by  the 
slough  of  the  Tularg  lake.  On  the  13th  of 
March,  1846,  we  were  obliged  to  boat  the 
San  Joaquin,  the  river  being  no  ."here  ford- 
able below  the  junction  of  the  slough,  and 
the  Indians  guided  us  to  some  difilcult  fords 
of  the  large  tributaries,  where  we  succeeded 
to  cross  with  damage  to  our  equipage.  In 
July  of  the  same  year,  we  boated  the  San 
Joaquin  below  the  Aux-um-ne,  it  being  no- 
where fordable  below  the  bend. 

In  June,  1847,  the  Joaquin  was  nowhere 
.'brdable,  being  several  hundred  yards  broad 
as  high  up  as  the  Aux-nm-iv.  river,  even 
with  its  banks,  and  scattered  in  sloughs  over 
all  its  lower  bottoms.  All  the  large  tributa- 
ries, the  Aus-um-ne,  To-wal-um-ne,  Stanib- 
laus,  and  Mo-kel-um-ne,  required  to  be 
boated,  and  were  pouring  down  a  deep  vo 
lume  of  water  from  the  mountains,  one  tt 


18 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR 


two  liiindrod  ynrds  wide.  The  liiy:li  wntrrs 
ciiirio  Irom  tlio  nipltinir  snows,  wliich,  diirinj; 
tlie  past  winter,  had  aixinniilated  to  ii  jrreut 
depth  in  tlio  iiioiintjiins,  and,  nt  tlio  end  of 
June,  lay  in  the  approaches  to  the  Bi'ar  river 
piiss,  on  .1  breadth  often  or  til'teon  miles,  and 
this  iMiiow  the  level  of  7,200  feet.  In  rainy 
seasons,  when  the  rains  begin  with  Novem- 
ber, and  the  snows  lie  on  the  mountains  till 
July,  this  river  is  naviifable  lor  eii;ht  inonth.i 
of  the  year — the  Icnirtii  of  time  dcpcndin<r  on 
the  season. 

The  Cos-um-ne  was  the  last  tributary  of 
the  San  Joaquin,  and  the  Inst  river  of  its  val- 
ley coming  down  from  the  Sierra  Nevada. 
The  Itio  d:  Ion  Amerwanos  was  the  first  tri- 
butary of  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  also 
coming  down,  like  all  the  respectable  tribu- 
taries of  both  rivers,  from  the  snowy  sum- 
mit and  rainy  side  of  the  great  Sierra.  The 
two  valleys  are  one,  only  discriminated  in  de- 
scription or  reference  by  the  name  of  the 
river  which  traverses  the  respective  halves, 
as  seen  in  the  map.  We  entered  the  port  of 
the  valley  which  takes  the  name  of  its  river, 
Sacramento,  on  the  21  st  day  of  March,  going 
north,  and  continued  our  observations  on 
that  valley. 

We  remained  several  days  on  the  Rio  do 
los  Americanos,  to  recruit  our  animais  on  the 
abundant  range  between  the  Sacramento  and 
the  hills.  During  this  time  the  thermometer 
was  at  36°  at  sunrise,  64°  at  9  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  63"  at  noon,  63°  at  2  in  the  after- 
noon, 61°  at  4,  and  63"  at  sunset;  the  dew- 
point  at  corresponding  times  being  34°.0, 
49°.9,  46°.6,  49°.4,  6l°.6,  43°.7;  and  the 
quantity  of  moisture  in  a  cubic  foot  of  air 
being  2.619  grs.,  4.236  grs.,  3.808  grs., 
4.161  grs.,  4.484  grs.,  3.469  grs. 

We  left  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos  on  the 
24th,  ten  miles  above  the  mouth,  travelling  a 
little  east  of  north,  in  the  direction  of  the 
Bear  river,  settlements,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Emigrant  pass.  The  road  led  among  oak 
timber,  over  gronnd  slightly  undulating,  cov- 
ered with  grass  intermingled  with  flowers. 
The  thermometer  at  4  was  76",  and  at  sun- 
set 60° ;  the  weather  clear. 

At  sunrise  of  tlie  26tli,  the  temperature 
was  36°,  with  an  easterly  wind  and  clear 
iky.  In  about  thirty  miles  travel  to  the 
north,  we  reached  the  rancho  of  Mr.  Keyser, 
on  Bear  river;  an  affluent  to  Feather  river, 
the  largest  tributary  of  the  Sacramento. 
The  route  lay  over  an  undulating  country — 
more  so  as  our  course  brought  us  nearer  the 
mountains — wooded  with  oaks  and  shrubbery 
in  blossom,  with  small  prairies  intervening. 
Many  plants  were  in  flower,  and  among 
them  the  California  poppy,  unusually  mag- 
nificent. It  is  the  characteristic  bloom  of 
California  at  this  season,  and  the  Bear  river 
oottoms,  near  the  hills,  were  covered  with  it. 


We  crossed  several  small  streams,  and  fonnd 
the  ground  miry  from  tlie  recent  rains.  The 
temperature  at  4  in  the  afternoon  was  70°, 
and  nt  sunset  .58°,  with  an  ea^lerly  wind,  and 
the  night  bright  and  clear. 

The  morning  of  the  •J.'ith  wa.^  clenr,  and 
warmer  than  usiiid  ;  the  wind  soulhciisierly, 
and  the  temperature  40".  We  triivellod 
across  tiie  vailev  plain,  and  in  about  sixtctMi 
miles  reached  F'cather  river,  at  twenty-six 
miles  ftom  its  jimction  with  the  Sacramento, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Yucu,  no  called  from 
a  village  of  Indians  who  live  on  it.  The 
river  has  high  banks — twenty  or  tiiirty  fcef — 
and  was  here  150  yards  wide,  a  deep,  navi- 
gable stream.  The  Indians  aided  us  acroas 
the  river  with  canoes  and  small  rafts.  Ex- 
tending along  the  bank  in  front  of  the  vil- 
lage, was  a  range  of  wicker  cribs,  about 
twelve  feet  high,  |>artly  filled  with  what  is 
there  the  Indians'  stafTof  life — acorns.  A 
collection  of  huts,  shaped  like  bee-hives,  \yith 
naked  Indians  sunning  themselves  on  the 
tops,  and  the.se  acorn  cribs,  arc  the  promi- 
nent objects  in  an  Indian  village. 

There  is  a  tine  farm,  or  ranclin,  on  the 
Yuva,  stocked  with  about  3,000  head  of  cat- 
tle, and  cultivated  principally  in  wheat,  with 
some  other  grains  and  vegetables,  which  are 
carried,  by  means  of  the  river,  to  a  market  at 
San  Francisco.  Mr.  Cordua,  a  native  of 
Germany,  who  is  proprietor  of  the  place,  in- 
formed me  that  his  average  harvest  of  wheat 
wos  about  twenty-five  bushels  to  the  acre, 
wiiich  he  supposed  would  be  about  the  pro- 
duct of  the  wneat  lands  in  the  Sacramento 
valley.  The  labor  on  this  and  other  farms 
in  the  valley  is  performed  by  Indians. 

The  temperature  here  was  74°.  at  2  in 
the  afternoon,  71°.  at  4,  and  69°.  at  sunset, 
nith  a  northei^^terly  wind  and  clear  sky. 

At  sunrise  of  the  27th  the  temperature 
was  42°.,  clear,  with  a  northeasterlv  wind. 
We  travelled  northwardly,  up  the  right  bank 
of  the  river,  which  was  wooded  with  large 
white  and  evergreen  oaks,  intersprsed  with 
thickets  of  shrubbery  in  full  bloom.  We 
made  a  pleasant  journey  of  twenty-seven 
m'les,  ana  encamped  at  the  bend  of  the  river, 
where  it  turns  from  the  course  across  the 
valley  to  run  southerly  to  its  junction  with 
the  Sacramento.  The  thermometer  at  sun- 
set was  at  67°,  sky  partially  clouded,  with 
southerly  wind. 

The  thermometer  at  sunrise  on  the  28tli 
was  at  46.°5.,  with  a  northeasterly  wind. 
The  road  was  over  an  open  plain,  with  a  few 
small  sloughs  or  creeks  that  do  not  reach 
the  river.  After  travelling  about  fifteen 
miles  we  encamped  on  Bulle  creek,  a  beau- 
tiful stream  of  clear  water  about  fifty  yards 
wide,  with  a  bold  current  running  all  the 
year.  It  has  large  fertile  bottoms,  woodetl 
with  open  groves,  and  having  a  luxuriaol 


I 


Kirmll  streams,  nnd  fonnd 
II  tin;  recent,  ruins.  Tlif? 
tlm  iil'ternooii  was  70°, 
itli  an  euftlerly  wind,  and 
clear. 

tlie  'Jfjlli  war!  clcir,  and 
the  wind  soullieiisliTJy, 
e  10".  We  tnivi'lled 
lin,  and  in  about  sixteen 
lier  river,  at.  twenty-six 
on  witli  ttin  Sacramento, 
le  Yucfi,  SI)  called  I'roin 
s  who  live  on  it.  The 
twenty  or  thirty  fcof — 
rard.s  wide,  a  deep,  navi- 
Indinns  aided  ns  across 
3  and  small  rafts.  Ex- 
jank  in  front  of  the  vil- 
of  wicker  crihs,  about 
artly  tilled  with  what  is 
itafl  of  life — acorns.  A 
inped  like  bcc-hives,  ^yith 
ning  themselves  on  the 
irn  cribs,  are  the  promi- 
idian  village, 
farm,  or  ranclm,  on  the 
about  3,000  head  of  cat- 
rincipaliy  in  wheat,  with 
nd  vegetables,  which  are 
'  the  river,  to  a  market  at 
r.  Cordua,  a  native  of 
oprietor  of  the  place,  in- 
iverage  harvest  of  wheat 
ivc  bushels  to  the  acre, 
would  be  about  the  pro- 
lands  in  the  Sacramento 
on  this  and  other  farms 
irmed  by  Indians, 
here  was  74".  at  2  in 
at  4,  and  69°.  at  sunset, 
wind  and  clear  sky. 
le  27tli  the  temperature 
th  a  northeaaterlv  wind, 
vardly,  up  the  right  bank 
was  wooded  with  large 
n  oaks,  interspersed  with 
sry  in  full  bloom.  We 
>urney  of  twenty-seven 
1  at  the  bend  of  the  river, 
(I  the  course  across  the 
erly  to  its  junction  with 
riie  thermometer  at  ann- 
r  partially  clouded,  with 

r  at  sunrise  on  the  28tb 
h  a  northeasterly  wind, 
in  open  plain,  with  a  few 
reeks  that  do  not  reach 
travelling  about    fifteen 

on  Butte  creek,  a  beau- 
r  water  about  iifty  yards 
^urrent  running  all  the 

fertile  bottoms,  wooded 
nnd  having  a  luxurionl 


UPON  UPPKR  CALIFOllMA. 


If 


irowln  of  pea  vii\e  among  the  gra.ss.  The 
oaks  here  were  geltini;  into  general  bloom. 
Fiiio  ninchos  have  been  selected  on  both 
»idos  the  stream,  and  stocked  with  cattle, 
some  of  which  were  now  very  fat.  A  ran- 
cho  hero  is  owned  by  Nea.,  who  formerly 
belonged  to  my  exploring  party.  There  is  a 
ramheria  (Indian  villajje)  near  by,  and  some 
of  tlie  Indians  gladly  ran  races  for  the  head 
and  nfl'als  of  a  fat  cow  which  had  been  pre- 
sented to  us.  They  were  enlirely  naked. 
The  thermometer  at  i  in  the  afternoon  was 
at  70"^.,  two  liours  later  at  71°.,  and  G5".  at 
sunset:  the  wind  cast,  and  the  sky  clear 
onlv  in  the  west. 

'the  temperature  nt  sunrise  of  the  next 
day  was  50°,  with  cumuli  in  the  south  atid 
we.<it,  which  lelt  a  clear  sky  at  9,  with  a 
.lottiiwest  wind,  and  temperature  of  64". 
Vve  travelled  20  miles,  and  encamped  on 
Puje  creek,  another  tine  stream,  with  bot- 
toms of  fertile  land,  wooded  with  groves  of 
largo  aiid  handsome  oaks,  some  attaining  to 
six  feet  in  diameter,  and  forty  to  seventy  ieet 
in  height.  At  4  in  the  aflcrnoon  tlio  ther- 
mometer showed  74"  and  64"  at  sunset ;  and 
the  sky  clear,  except  in  the  horizon. 

March  30. — The  sun  rose  in  masses  of 
clouds  over  the  eastern  mouniains.  A  plea- 
sant morning,  with  a  sunrise  temperature  of 
46°  5,  and  some  musquitoes — never  seen,  as 
is  said,  in  the  coast  country ;  but  at  seasons 
of  high  water  abundant  and  venomous  in  the 
bottoms  of  the  Joaquin  and  Sacramento.  On 
the  tributaries  nearer  the  mountain  but  few 
are  seen,  and  tliose  go  with  the  sun.  Con- 
tiauing  up  the  valley,  we  crossed  in  a  short 
distance  a  large  wooded  creek,  having  now 
about  thirty-five  feet  breadth  of  wat^r.  Our 
TbaA  was  over  an  upland  prairie  of  the  Sacra- 
mento, having  a  yellowish,  gravelly  soil,  gen- 
erally two  or  tliree  miles  from  the  river,  and 
twelve  or  hfteen  from  the  foot  of  the  eastern 
mountains.  On  the  west  it  was  25  or  30 
miles  to  tlie  foot  of  the  mountains,  which 
here  make  a  bed  of  high  and  broken  ranges. 
In  the  afternoon,  about  half  a  mile  above  it« 
mouth,  we  encamped  on  Deer  creek,  another 
of  these  beautiful  tributaries  to  the  Sacra- 
mento. It  has  the  usual  broad  and  fertile 
bottom  lands  common  to  these  streams, 
wooded  with  groves  of  oak  and  a  large  syca- 
more (platanus  occiderUalis),  distinguished  by 
bearing  its  balls  in  strings  of  three  to  five, 
and  peculiar  to  California.  Mr.  Lassen,  a 
native  of  Germany,  has  established  a  rancho 
here,  which  he  has  stocked,  and  is  gradually 
bringing  into  cultivation.  Wheat,  as  gene- 
rally throughout  the  north  country,  gives 
large  returns ;  cotton,  planted  in  the  way  of 
experiment,  was  not  injured  by  frost,  and 
succeeded  well :  and  he  has  lately  planted  a 
vineyard,  for  which  the  Sacramento  valley  is 
considered   to   tie   mngukriy  wel!   adao'ed. 


The  seasons  are  not  yet  siifTirir-itly  under- 
stood, and  too  little  has  been  iloii,"  in  agricul- 
t'lre,  to  alTord  certain  knowleiJije  ol"  the  ca- 
pacities of  the  country.  This  liiriii  is  in  the 
40lh  degree  of  latitude  ;  our  posiiicm  on  the 
river  being  in  30"  57'  OO",  and  longitude 
121°  56'  44"  west  from  (ireeiiwich.and  ele- 
vation above  the  sea  6G0  foot.  Ab:jut  three 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  this  stream  are  the 
first  rapid.s — the  present  head  of  navi^jation 
— in  the  Sacramento  river,  whicli,  from  the 
rapids  to  its  mouth  in  the  hny,  is  tuorc  tiian 
200  miles  long,  and  increasing  in  breadth 
from  150  yards  to  600  yards  in  the  lower 
prt  of  its  course. 

During  six  days  that  we  remained  here, 
from  the  30th  of  March  to  the  6th  of  April, 
the  mean  temperature  wa.s  40°  at  sunrise, 
52°  .5  at  9  in  the  nr.  jining,  57"  .2  at  noon, 
59"  .4  at  2  in  the  afternoon,  58°  .8  at  4,  and 
62"  at  sunset ;  at  the  corresponding  times 
the  dew  point  was  at  37°  .0,  41°  .0,  38"  .1, 
39"  .6, 44"  .9,  40°  .5  ;  and  the  moisture  in  a 
cubic  foot  of  air  2.838  grs.,  3.179  grs.,  2.936 
grs.,  3.034  grs.,  3.766  grs.,  3.150  grs.,  re- 
spectively. Much  cloudy  weather  and  some 
showers  of  rain,  during  tliis  interval,  con- 
siderably reduced  the  temperature,  which 
rose  with  fine  weather  on  the  5th.  Salmon 
was  now  abundant  in  the  Sacramento.  Those 
which  we  obtained  were  generally  between 
three  and  four  feet  in  length,  and  appeared  to 
be  of  two  distinct  kinds.  It  is  said  that  as 
many  as  four  different  kinds  ascend  the  river 
at  different  periods.  The  great  abundance 
in  which  this  fish  is  found  gives  i^  an  im- 
portant place  among  the  resources  of  the 
country.  The  salmon  crowd  in  immense 
numbers  up  the  Umpqua,  Tlamath,  and 
Trinity  rivers,  and  into  every  little  river  and 
creek  on  the  coast  north  of  the  Bay  San 
Francisco,  ascending  the  river  Tlamath  to 
the  lake  near  its  source,  which  is  upwards 
of  4,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  distant  from 
it  only  about  200  miles. 

In  the  evening  of  the  5th  we  resumed 
our  journey  northward,  and  encamped  on  a 
little  creek,  near  the  Sacramento,  where  an 
emigrant  from  "  the  States  "  was  establishing 
himself,  and  had  already  bnilt  a  house.  It  is 
a  handsome  place,  wooded  with  groves  of 
oak,  and  along  the  creek  are  sycamore,  ash, 
cotton-wood,  and  willow.  The  day  was  fine, 
with  a  nortlieast  wind. 

The  temperature  at  sunrise  the  next  day 
(April  6tli),  was  42°,  with  a  northeasterly 
wind.  We  continued  up  the  Sacramento, 
which  we  crossed  in  canoes  at  a  farm  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river.  The  Sacramento 
was  here  about  140  yards  wide,  and  with  the 
actual  stage  of  water,  which  I  was  informed 
continued  several  months,  navigable  for  a 
steamboat.  We  encamped  a  few  miles  above, 
uu  a  creek  wooded   principally  with  large 


18 


GKOGIIAPHICAL  MEMOIR 


oaks.  (Irass  wqh  rrnci]  ;iiitl  abr.ndnnt,  witli 
wild  oats  and  poa-vinc  in  tlie  liuttoins.  Tlio 
day  was  t'mc,  with  a  cool  northwesterly 
jreeze,  which  had  in  it  the  air  of  the  high 
ntnuntains.  The  wild  cats  here  were  not 
yet  headed. 

The  snowy  Peak  of  Shasll  boro  directly 
north,  showinjj  out  high  above  the  other 
nioiiiitains.  Tonijjcniture  at  sunset  67**, 
with  a  west  wind  and  sky  partly  clouded. 

April  7. — The  temperature  at  sunrise  was 
37",  with  a  moist  air ;  and  a  faintly  clouded 
sky  indicated  that  the  wind  was  southerly 
along  the  coast.  We  travelled  towards  the 
Shastl  peak,  the  mountain  ranges,  on  both 
sides  of  the  valleys,  being  high  and  rugged, 
and  snow-covered.  Some  remarkable  peaks 
in  the  Sierra,  to  the  eastward,  are  called  the 
Sisters,  and,  nearly  opposite,  the  Coast  Range 
shows  a  prominent  peak,  which  we  have 
■called  Mount  Linn. 

Leaving  the  Sacramento,  at  a  stream  called 
Red  Bank  creek,  and  continuing  to  the  head 
of  one  of  its  forks,  we  entere<i  on  a  high  and 
somewhat  broken  upland,  timbered  with  at 
least  four  xarielies  of  oaks,  with  mansanita 
(arbuttis  Memwsii)  and  otiier  shrubbery  in- 
terspersed. A  remarkable  species  of  pine, 
having  leaves  in  threes,  ^sometimes  six  tx) 
nine  inches  long,)  with  bluish  foliage,  and 
a  spreading,  oak-shaped  top,  was  scattered 
through  the  timber.  I  have  remarked  that 
this  tree  grows  lower  down  the  mountains 
than  tne  other  pines,  being  found  familiarly 
associated  with  the  oaks,  the  first  met  after 
leaving  the  open  valleys,  and  seeming  to  like 
a  warm  climate.  Flowers  were  as  usual 
abundant.  The  splendid  California  poppy 
characterized  all  the  route  along  the  valley. 
A  species  of  clover  was  in  bloom,  and  the 
berries  of  the  mansanita  were  beginning  to 
redden  on  some  trees,  while  on  others  Uiey 
were  still  in  bloom.  We  encamped,  at  an 
elevation  of  about  1,000  feet  above  the  sea, 
on  a  large  stream  called  Cottonwood  creek, 
wooded  on  the  bottoms  with  oaks,  and  with 
cotton-woods  along  the  bed,  which  is  sandy 
and  gravelly.  The  water  was  at  this  time 
about  twenty  yards  wide,  but  is  frequently 
fifty.  The  face  of  the  country  traversed 
during  the  day  was  gravelly,  and  tlie  bottoms 
of  the  creek  where  we  encamped  l)ave  a 
sandy  soil. 

There  are  six  or  seven  rancherias  of  In- 
dians on  the  Sacramento  river  between  the 
ferm  where  we  had  crossed  the  Sacramento 
and  the  mouth  of  this  creek,  and  many  others 
in  the  mountains  about  the  heads  of  these 
streams. 

The  next  morning  was  cloudy,  threatening 
*nin,  but  the  sky  grew  brighter  as  the  sun 
rose,  and  a  southerly  wind  changed  to  north- 
west, which  brought,  as  it  never  fails  to 
bring,  clear  weallicr. 


Wo  continued  IG  miloa  up  the  valley,  and 
encamped  on  the  Sacramento  river.  In  tho 
afternoon  (April  8)  the  weather  njjain  prow 
thick,  and  in  the  evening  rain  lK>g!in  to  foil 
in  the  valley  and  snow  on  tho  niountainn. 
We  were  now  near  tho  head  of  the  lower 
valley,  and  the  face  of  tho  country  and  tho 
weather  began  sen.sibly  to  show  tho  influence 
of  the  nigged  mountains  which,  surruuiid 
and  terminate  it. 

The  valley  of  the  Sacramento  is  divided 
into  upper  and  lower — tho  lower  two  hun- 
dred miles  long,  the  upper  about  one  hun- 
dred ;  and  the  latter  not  merely  entitled  to 
the  distinction  of  upper,  as  teing  higher  up 
on  tho  river,  but  also  as  having  a  superior 
elevation  of  some  thon!<ands  of  feet  above  it. 
The  division  is  strongly  and  geographically 
marked.  The  Shastl  peak  stands  at  the 
head  of  the  lower  valley,  in  the  forks  of  tlie 
river,  rising  from  a  base  of  about  1 ,000  feet, 
out  of  a  forest  of  heavy  timbor.  It  ascends 
like  an  immense  column  upwards  of  14,000 
feet,  (nearly  the  height  of  Mont  Blanc,)  the 
summit  glistening  with  snow,  and  visible, 
from  favorable  points  of  view,  at  a  distance 
of  140  miles  down  the  valley.  The  river 
here,  in  descending  from  the  upper  valley, 
plunges  down  through  a  caflon,  falling  2,000 
feet  in  twenty  miles.  This  upper  valley  is 
100  miles  long,  heavily  timbered,  the  climate 
and  productions  modified  by  its  altitude,  its 
more  northern  position,  and  the  proximity  and 
elevation  of  the  neighboring  mountains  cov- 
ered with  snow.  It  contains  valleys  of  ara- 
ble land,  and  is  deemed  capable  of  settle- 
ment. Added  to  the  lower  valley,  it  makes 
the  whole  valley  of  the  Sacramento  300 
miles  long. 

April  9. — At  10  o'clock  the  rain  which 
commenced  the  previous  evening  had  ceased, 
and  the  clouds  clearing  away,  wo  boated  the 
river,  and  continued  our  journey  eastward 
toward  the  foot  of  tlie  Sierra.  The  Sacra- 
mento bottoms  here  are  broad  and  prettily 
wooded,  with  soil  of  a  sandy  character.  Our 
way  led  through  very  handsome,  open  woods, 
principally  of  oaks,  mingled  with  a  considera- 
Die  quantity  of  the  oak-shaped  pine.  Inter- 
spersed amon^  these  were  bouquets  or  thick- 
ets of  mansanita,  and  an  abundant  white-flow- 
ering shrub,  now  entirely  covered  with  small 
blossoms.  The  head  of  the  valley  here 
(lower  volley)  is  watered  by  many  small 
streams,  having  fertile  bottom  lands,  with  a 
good  range  of  grass  and  acorns.  In  about 
six  miles  we  crossed  a  creek  20  or  25  feet 
wide,  and  several  miles  farther  descended 
into  the  broad  bottoms  of  a  swift  stream  about 
20  yards  wide,  called  Cow  creek,  so  named 
as  being  the  range  of  a  small  band  of  cattle, 
which  ran  ofT  here  from  a  party  on  their  way 
to  Oregon.  They  are  entirely  wild,  and  are 
hunted  like  otiier  game.    A  large  band  of 


^'*l 


nilra  up  tho  valley,  and 
ramciito  river.  In  tho 
tie  weutlicr  iigain  prow 
ling  rain  begun  to  fall 
ow  on  tiio  nioiintninfl, 
the  head  of  llie  lower 
)f  the  country  find  tho 
ily  to  show  the  inthicnce 
itnina  which    surruuiid 

Siicmmcnto  is  divided 
' — tho  lower  two  hnn- 
nppcr  about  one  iiun- 
not  merely  entitled  to 
)cr,  as  licinjj  hijrhor  up 
I  as  having  a  snperior 
jur'ands  of  feet  above  it. 
igly  and  geographically 
;1  peak  stands  at  the 
Hey,  in  the  forks  of  tlie 
ase  of  about  1 ,000  feet, 
ttvy  timber.  It  ascends 
imn  upwards  of  14,000 
;ht  of  Mont  Blanc,)  the 
vith  snow,  and  visible, 
?  of  view,  at  a  distance 
the  valley.  The  river 
from  the  upper  valley, 
rh  a  caflon,  falling  2,000 
This  upper  valley  is 
ily  timbered,  the  climate 
dified  bv  its  altitude,  its 
)n,  and  the  proximity  and 
[hboring  mountains  cov- 
contains  valleys  of  ara- 
imed  capable  of  settle- 
i  lower  valley,  it  makes 
f  the  Sacramento  300 

o'clock  the  rain  which 
ions  evening  had  ceased, 
ng  away,  wo  boated  the 
our  journey  eastward 
le  Sierra.    The  Sacra- 
are  broad  and  prettily 
sandy  character.    Our 
handsome,  open  woods, 
ingled  with  a  considera- 
ak-shaped  pine.    Inter- 
were  bouquets  or  thick- 
an  abundant  white-flow- 
irely  covered  with  small 
id  of  the   valley  here 
atered  by  many  small 
Ic  bottom  lands,  with  a 
and  acorns.    In  about 
d  a  creek  20  or  26  feet 
niles  farther  descended 
of  a  swiil  stream  about 
i  Cow  creek,  so  named 
a  small  band  of  cattle, 
oiii  a  party  on  their  way 
•e  entirelv  wild,  and  are 
inc.    A  large  band  of 


UPON  UrPr.R  CALIFORNIA. 


19 


Rn'>''Vri-?  w;is  seen  in  ilio  timbrr,  iind  Civ.'  or 
:<:.T  Cfcor  canio  (!iirtiii;r  Ihroiiijli  the  wodds. 
\n  anteiiipo  and  hcmtuI  dncr  were  killed. 
Tli'-re  appear  to  lie  two  specie-f  of  those  doer 
— I'  th  of  tho   liind  fri'iiornlly  called  blark- 
'jijicd  ;  one,  a  larger  s|)ei"ies  t'reqiieiitiiig  the 
pieiries  and  lower  irroiinds  ;  tlier)tlipr,  iiiiirh 
■:  .'Her,  and  I'oimd  in  the  nioiintaiiis  only, 
Th-i  niouiit.iinM  in  the  northeast  wen;  hlark 
v.'iin  cloinls  when  wo  reached  the  creek,  and 
"•eiy  soon  a  lierce  hail  storm  burst  down  on 
lis,  scattering  oiir  animals  and  covering  the 
irr^und  an  inch  in  depth  with  hailstones  about 
tho  size  of  wild  cherries.     The  face  of  the 
country  appeared  as  whitened  by  a  fall  of 
snow,  and  the  weather  lx;came  unpleasantly 
cold.     The  evening  closed  in  with  rain,  and 
thimiicr  roiling  around  the  hills.     Oureleva- 
tioji  iu-^ro  WIS  between  1,000  and  1,100  foot. 
At  iunriso  the  ne.xt  morning  the  thermom- 
eter v/as  at  33'.    The  surrounding  moun- 
tains showed  a  continuous  line  of  snow,  and 
tho  high  peaks  looketl  wintry.     Turning  to 
the  southward,  we  retraced  our  stops  down 
the  valley,   and    reached  Mr.  I^assen's,  on 
Deer  river,  on  the  evening  of  the  1 1th.     The 
Sacramento  Ixittoms  between  Antelope  and 
Deer  river  wero  covered  with  oats,  which 
had  attained  their  full  height,  growing  as  in 
sown  fields.     The  country  here  exhibited  the 
maturity  of  spring.    The  California  poppy 
was  every  where  forming  seed  pods,  and 
many  plants  were  in  flower  and  seed  together. 
Some  varieties  of  clover  were  just  beginning 
to  bloom.     By  the  middle  of  the  month  the 
seed  vessels  of  tho  California  poppy,  which, 
from  its  characteristic  abundance,  is  a  promi- 
nent feature  in  the  vegetation,  had  attained 
their  full  size;  but  the  seeds  of  this  and 
many  other  plants,  although  fully  formed, 
were  still  green  colored,  and  not  entirely 
ripe.    At  this  time  I  obtained  from  the  San 
Joaquin  valley  seeds  of  the  poppy,  and  other 
plants,  black  and  fully  ripe,  while  they  still 
remained  green  in  this  part  of  the  Sacra- 
mento—the effect  of  a  warmer  climate  in 
the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin.    The  mean 
temperature  for  14  days,  from  the  10th  to  the 
24th  of  April,  was  43'*  at  sunrise,  58"  at  9 
in  the  morning,  64°  at  noon,  66°  at  2  in  the 
afternoon,  69°  at  4,  and  68°  at  sunset,  (lati- 
tude 40°.)  The  thermometer  ranged  at  sun- 
rise from  38°  to  61°,  at  4  (which  is  the  hot- 
test of  those  hours  of  the  day  when  the 
temperature  was  noted)  from  63°  to  88°, 
and  at  sunset  from  49''  to  66°.    The  dew 
point  was  40.°3  at  sunrise,  47.°3  at  9  in  the 
morning,  46.°1  at  noon,  49.°2  at  2  in  the  af- 
ternoon, 49.°a  at  4,  and  46.°6  at  sunset ; 
and  the  quantity  of  moisture  in  a  cubic  foot 
of  air  at  corresponding  times  was  3.grs.l04, 
3.grs.882,  3.gr8.807,   4.grs.213,   4.grs.317, 
3.grs.884,  respectively.      The  winds  fluc- 
tuated between  northwest  and  southeast,  the 


tpinnenitiirf  depending  more  upon  the  state 
of  ilie  sky  than  the  direction  of  the  winds — 
a  cliiiiiled  sl;y  always  lowering  the  tliennomc- 
ter  tifteen  or  twenty  degrees  in  a  short  time. 
For  the  greater  nninher  of  the  days  above 
given,  the  sl<y  was  covered  and  the  atmo- 
sj)liere  fref|uently  thick,  with  rain  at  intervals 
from  the  I!)th  to  the 'jarl. 

On  tiio  i!5tli  Jlay,  we  returned  to  this 
place  (Lassen's)  from  an  excursion  to  the 
Upper  Sacraiiieuto.  The  plants  we  had  left 
in  bl(ioni  were  now  geni^rally  in  seed ;  and 
many,  including,'  the  characteristic  ])lanfs, 
perfectly  ripe.  The  mean  temperature  of  a 
few  days  ending  Mav,  was  54°. 7  at  sunrise, 
70".6at  noon,  and  r)7°.3  at  sunset.  Tra- 
velling south  into  the  more  open  and  wider 
part  of  the  valley  where  the  bordering 
mountains  are  lower  and  showed  less  snow, 
the  temperature  increased  rapidly.  At  Ihe 
Duties — an  isolated  mountain  ridge  about  six 
miles  long  and  about  2,690  feet  above  tho 
sea — the  mornings  were  pleasantly  cool  for 
a  few  hours,  but  before  ten  the  heat  of  the 
sun  liecame  very  great,  though  usually  tem- 
pered by  a  refreshing  breeze.  Tho  heat 
was  usually  the  greatest  alwut  four  in  the 
afternoon.  Tho  mean  temperature  from 
May  27th  to  June  6th,  was  64°.  at  sunrise, 
79  .  at  nine  in  the  morning,  86°.  at  noon, 
90°.  at  two  in  the  afternoon,  91°.  at  four, 
and  80°.  at  sunset,  ranging  from  63°.  to 
79°.  at  sunrise— from  85°.  to  98°.  at  four 
in  tho  afternoon — and  from  73°.  to  89°.  at 
sunset.  The  place  of  observation  was  at 
the  eastern  base  of  the  BuIIps,  about  800 
feet  above  the  sea,  latitude  39°  1 2',  and  one 
of  the  warmest  situations  in  the  Sacramento 
valley.  At  corresponding  times  the  dew 
point  was  at  66.°5,  62.°4,  66.°5,  68.°2, 
66.°6,  66.°9,  and  the  quantity  of  moisture 
in  a  cubic  foot  of  air  6.gr8.253,  6.gr8.318, 
7.grs.l«i,7.grs.496,7.grs.l64,and7.grs.269 
respectively.  We  felt  the  heat  here  more 
sensibly  than  at  any  other  place  where  our 
journeying  brought  us  in  California.  Tho 
hunters  always  left  the  camp  before  daylight, 
and  were  in  by  nine  o'clock,  after  w  hich  the 
sun  grew  iiot.  Game  was  very  fat  and 
abundant ;  upwards  of  eighty  deer,  elk,  and 
bear  were  killed  in  one  morning.  The  range 
consisted  of  excellent  grasses,  wild  oats  m 
fields,  red  and  other  varieties  of  clover, 
some  of  which  were  now  in  mature  seed 
and  others  beginning  to  flower.  Oats  were 
now  drying  in  level  places  where  exposed 
to  the  full  influence  of  the  sun,  remainin 
green  in  moister  places  and  on  the  hi 
hlopes. 

The  mean  temperature  of  the  open  valler 
between  the  Buttes  and  the  American  fork 
from  the  8th  to  the  21st  June,  was  67".  at 
sunrise,  74°  at  nine  in  the  morning,  86°  at 
noon.  87°  at  two  in  the  afternoon,  88°.  at 


90 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR 


four,  1111(1  77°.  nf  siiiinct;  riingiiiij  iit  siinrii<o 
from  SI",  to  (Jl". ;  at  I  In  mi  HI",  to  i)7°., 
and  at  .•iiiiii-t^t  tVom  71".  to  85°.  Tlio  drnv 
point  at  ciirrt'spoiuliiiir  times  was  62". 8, 
68°.8,  (W'.l,fi(i".8,  (i-iO.5,  fi0°.7,  uiul  fho 
qiiaiitily  of  moistmo  in  n  cubic  foot  of  air 
being  4.(i85  }jr.-t.,  5.709  grn.,  6.3:20  grs., 
7.217  grs.,  6.377  grs.,  5.973  grn.,  respect- 
ively. 

Western  Slu/ie  of  the  Sirira  .\evnila. — 
The  wef^tern  flank  of  this  Sierra  belongs  to 
the  maritime  region  of  California,  and  is  ca- 
pable of  adding  greatly  to  its  vah.e.  It  is  a 
long,  wide  slope,  timbered  and  gra.^sy,  with 
intervids  of  arable  land,  copiously  v.'atered 
with  numerous  and  bold  streams,  and  without 
the  cold  which  its  name  and  altitude  might 
imply.  In  length  it  is  the  whole  extent  of 
the  long  valley  at  its  base,  five  hundred 
miles,  in  breadth,  it  is  from  forty  to  seventy 
miles  from  the  summit  of  the  mountain  to 
the  termination  of  the  foot  hills  in  the  edge 
of  the  valleys  below,  and  almost  the  whole 
of  it  available  for  some  useful  purpose — 
timber,  pastnragc,  some  nrnblo  land,  mills, 
quarries — and  so  situated  as  to  be  conven- 
ient for  use,  the  wide  slope  of  the  mountain 
being  of  easy  and  practicaule  descent.  Tim- 
ber holds  the  iir.st  place  in  the  advantages  of 
this  slope,  the  whole  being  hoiivily  wooded, 
first  with  oaks,  which  predominate  to  about 
half  the  elevation  of  the  mountain  ;  and  then 
with  pines,  cypress,  and  cedars,  the  pines 
predominating ;  and  hence,  called  the  pine 
region,  as  that  below  is  called  the  oak  region, 
U^iough  mixed  with  other  trees.  The  liighest 
summits  of  the  Sierra  are  naked,  massive 
granite  rock,  covered  with  snow,  in  sheltered 
places  all  vho  year  round.  The  oaks  are 
several  varieties  of  white  and  black  oak,  and 
evergreens,  some  of  them  resembling  live 
oak.  Of  the  white  oak  there  are  some  new 
species,  attaining  a  handsome  elevation,  upon 
a  stem  six  feet  in  diameter.  Acorns  of  un- 
common size,  and  not  bad  taste,  used  regu- 
larly for  food  l)y  the  Indians,  abound  on  these 
trees,  and  will  be  of  great  value  for  stock. 
The  cypress,  pine,  and  cedar  are  between 
100  and  250  feet  high,  and  five  to  twelve  feet 
in  diameter,  with  clean  solid  stems.  Gross 
abounds  on  almost  all  parts  of  the  slope ; 
except  toward.s  the  highest  summits,  and  is 
fresh  and  (jreen  all  the  year  round,  being 
neither  killed  by  cold  in  the  winter,  nor 
dried  by  wiiiit  of  rain  in  the  summer.  The 
foot  hills  of  the  slope  are  sufficiently  fertile 
and  gentle  to  admit  of  good  settlements ; 
while  valleys,  coves,  beaches  and  meadows 
of  arable  land  are  found  throiigiioiit.  Many 
of  the  numeroiis  streams,  some  of  them 
amounting  tt)  considerable  rivers,  which  flow 
down  the  inoiiiitaiii  side,  make  handsome, 
fertile  valleys.  .\ll  these  streams  furnish 
gfxnl  water'  [xvix        The  climate  in  the 


lower  part  of  the  slope  is  tiiat  of  c  ;Vi.^tatu 
spring,  while  above,  the  cold  is  not  In  'i>ri.» 
portion  to  the  elevation.  Such  is  the  ge .'.ural 
view  of  the  western  slojie  of  thj  givat  Kiii- 
erra ;  but  deeming  that  all  general  \  icwo 
sJiould  rest  uiion  jiositive  iliilu,  I  add  soiac 
notes  taken  Irom  actual  observations  iiiada 
in  dirterent  ascents  and  de.scenl^  in  the 
winter  and  s;>riiig  of  1845-40,  and  in  dif- 
ferent degrees  of  latitude  from  35°  to  41°. 
Decemlirr  4,    1845. — Descent   from    the 

fiass,  at  the  head  of  Salmon  Trout  river, 
ptitudo  39"^  17',  elevation  7,200  leet.  M  3 
in  the  afternoon  the  temperature  at  46",  at 
sunset  34",  at  sunrise  ne.xt  morning  22" ; 
the  sky  prfectly  clear ;  no  snow  in  the  pass, 
but  mucli  on  the  mountain  tops.  Here  the 
present  emigrant  road  now  crosses.  A 
fork  of  Bear  river  (a  considerable  stream 
tributary  to  Feather  river,  whic.n  falls  into 
the  Sacramento)  leads  from  the  pass,  and  the 
road  follows  it ;  but  finding  this  a  rugged 
way,  we  turned  to  the  south,  and  encamped 
in  a  mountiiin  meadow  of  goo<l  green  grass. 
A  yellow  moss  very  abundant  on  the  north 
sides  of  the  pines. 

December  6. — The  route  was  over  good 
travelling  ground,  through  open  pine  forest 
on  a  broad,  leading  ridge,  afTording  an  excel- 
lent road.  A  species  of  cedar  (Thuya  gi- 
santea)  occurred,  often  of  extraordinary 
height  and  size.  Piniis  lambertinni  was  one 
of  the  most  frequent  trees,  distinguished 
among  cone- bearing  tribes  by  the  length  of 
its  cones,  sometimes  sixteen  or  eighteen 
inches  long.  The  Indians  eat  the  inner  part 
of  tJie  burr,  and  large  heaps  of  them  were 
seen  where  they  had  been  collected.  Leav- 
ing the  higher  ridges,  and  gaining  the 
smoother  spurs,  and  descending  about  4,000 
feet,  the  face  of  the  country  changed  rapidly. 
The  country  became  low,  rolling,  and  pretty ; 
the  pines  began  to  disappear,  and  varieties 
of  ouk,  and  principally  an  evergreen  resem- 
bling live  oak,  became  the  predominating 
forest  growth.  These  oaks  bear  great  quan- 
tities of  large  acorns,  the  principal  food  of  all 
the  wild  Indians.  At  a  village  of  a  few  huts 
which  we  came  upon,  there  was  a  large  supply 
of  these  acorns — eight  or  ten  cribs  of  wicker 
work,  containing  about  twenty  bushels  each. 
The  best  acorns  are  obtained  from  a  large 
tree  belonging  to  the  division  of  white  oaks, 
which  is  very  abundant,  and  generally  forms 
the  groves  on  the  bottom  lands  of  the  streams 
— standing  apart,  with  a  clean  undergrowth 
of  grass,  giving  them  the  appearance  of  cul- 
tivatcd  parks.  It  is  a  noble  forest  tree,  al- 
ready mentioned  as  a  new  species,  sixty  to 
eighty  feet  high,  with  a  tufted  summit  of 
.spreading  branches,  and  fi-eauently  attains  a 
diameter  of  six  feet.  The  largest  we 
measured  reached  eleven  feet.  The  ever- 
green   oaks  generally  have  a  low  growtli, 


mmmmmmmtmum 


~S^.;: 


UPON  UPPER  CALIFORNIA. 


91 


lope  is  timt  of  e  ivctatu 
till?  cold  is  not  In  \>'y.^ 
)ii.     Such  is  thogc.i;':!! 

slopo  of  tllJ    JJiVUt  'Jt'l- 

tlmt  nil  jjencriil  \iewB 
witivc  ila/ii,  I  ixild  some 
timl  ohsHrviitions  i.iada 
iind  (Il'scciiI>j  ill  the 
if  1845-4G,  mid  in  dif- 
itude  Iroiii  35°  to  41°. 
5. — Di'!*cont  from  tlie 
f  Salmon  Trout  river, 
ation  7.200  t'eet.     AJ  3 

tcmperuture  iit  40*^,  at 
80  next  morning  22"  j 
ir ;  no  biiow  in  the  poas, 
untain  tops.  Here  the 
oad  now  cnwHes.  A 
(a  considerable  stream 

river,  wliicn  falls  into 
la  from  the  pass,  and  the 
:  finding  this  a  rugged 
10  south,  and  encamped 
i\v  of  good  green  grass. 

abunuant  on  the  north 

e  route  was  over  good 
rough  open  pine  forest 
idge,  affording  an  excel- 
es  of  cedar  {Thuya  gi- 
often  of  extraordinary 
niis  lambertiani  was  ona 
}nt  trees,  distinguished 
tribes  by  the  length  of 
'8  sixteen  or  eighteen 
ndiuns  eat  the  inner  part 
re  iieaps  of  thcin  were 

been  collected.  Leav- 
Iges,  and  gaining  the 
descending  about  4,000 
ountry  changed  rapidly. 

low,  rolling,  nnd  pretty ; 
disappear,  and  varieties 
ly  an  evergreen  resem- 
ime  the  predominating 
se  oaks  bear  great  qiian- 

the  principal  food  of  all 
t  a  village  of  a  few  huta 
there  was  a  large  supply 
It  or  ten  cribs  of  wicker 
lut  twenty  bushels  each. 

obtained  from  a  large 

division  of  white  oaks, 
int,  and  generally  forms 
tom  lands  of  the  streams 
th  a  clean  undergrowth 
1  the  appearance  of  cul- 

a  noble  forest  tree,  al- 
a  new  species,  sixty  to 
th  a  tufted  summit  of 
nnd  fi-e<juently  attains  a 
et.  The  largest  we 
leven  feet.  The  over- 
ly have  a  low  growtli. 


ft'illi  long  brani'hes  niid  spreading  tops. 
■Seine  of  thoiii  are  H.iitaliiii  lor  ship  timber, 
und  have  already  U<en  used  for  that  piir- 

At  our  evening  encampnioiit  of  (ho  Stli, 
v.'hich  was  at  nn  elcviilion  of  live  hundred 
fi>el.  aiiove  the  sou,  latitude  38"  63', 
iiiul  distant  from  the  sea-coast  about  one 
hundred  miles,  the  tcmpornturo  at  sunset 
was  48"^,  the  sky  clear  and  calm,  weather 
delightful,  and  the  vegetation  that  of  early 
spring.  We  were  still  upon  the  foot  hills  of 
tlie  mountain,  where  the  soil  is  sheltered  by 
\V()ods,  and  where  miii  fulls  much  more  fre- 
iiuently  than  in  the  oimmi  Sacraiiifiito  valley, 
Dcnr  the  edge  of  wliicli  we  then  were.  I 
have  been  in  copious,  continuous  rains  of 
eighteen  or  twenty  hours'  duration  in  the  oak 
region  of  the  mountain,  when  not  a  drop 
fell  in  the  valley  below.  Innumerable  small 
streams  have  their  rise  and  course  through 
Ih^ne  foot  hills,  which  never  reach  the  river 
01  li.o  valley,  but  are  ab-orted  in  its  light 
soil.  The  large  streams  coming  from  the 
upper  parts  of  the  mountain  make  valleys  of 
their  own,  of  fertile  soil,  covered  with  luxu- 
riant grass  and  inter8()ersed  with  groves. 
This  is  the  general  character  of  the  foot 
hills  tliroughout  the  entire  length  of  tlie  Sac- 
ramento and  San  Joaquin  valleys — a  broad 
belt  of  country,  and  probably  destined  to  be- 
come a  vine-growing,  as  well  as  a  grain  and 
pastonil  country. 

Decciiilie.r  9. — Entered  the  valley  of  tho 
Sacramento.  Fresh,  green  grass  for  eight 
or  ten  miles  into  the  valley,  cnttie  feeding 
upon  it,  or  lying  under  the  shade  of  trees — 
the  shade  lieing  pleasant  to  our  own  feelings. 
Further  in,  towards  tlie  middle  of  tlie  valley, 
where  the  spring  rains  had  not  yet  com- 
menced, tlie  country  looked  parched  and  dry, 
the  grass  eaten  down  by  the  cattle,  which 
were  quite  fat  and  tine  beef. 

AacenJ,  December  and  January,  1845-46, 
latitude  37  ~'.  Entering  the  mountain  by  the 
Rio  Reyes  of  Tulare  lake,  (December  24,) 
we  found  its  general  character  very  similor 
to  what  it  was  in  the  more  northern  part, 
(latitude  39",)  the  timber  perhaps  less  heavy 
and  more  o|)en.  and  the  mountain  generally 
more  rough,  extremely  rocky  in  the  upper 
parts,  but  wooded  up  to  the  granite  ridges 
which  coir.|K)se  its  rocky  eminences.  At  tlie 
elevation  of  3,500  feet  the  ridges  were  cov- 
ered with  oiiks  and  pines  intermixed,  and  the 
bottom  lands  with  oaks,  cotton-wood,  and 
sycomoras.  Small  varieties  of  evergreen 
viaka  reached  the  olwerved  height  of  9,480 
feet,  at  which  elevation  pinus  lamherliaiti, 
and  other  varieties  of  pine,  tir,  and  cypress, 
were  largo  and  lofty  trees.  During  the 
latter  part  of  December  and  first  days  of 
Jwiiuiry  llic  siverage  teniperoture  of  the  oak 
region,  goirg  to  ab<)ut  5,000  feet  above  the 


sea,  Wiis,  III  sunrise,  34."(i',  and  at  sunset 
50."  5'.  Ill  the  piiUT  rogion,  between  this 
lieiclit  nnd  1.10.)  I'ect,  the  iivornge  at  sunrise 
was  2N.'^  7',  anil  ;it  sunset  30°  4'.  'J'lie  low- 
est observed  teiii|ienitiire  was  at  sunset  of 
Jnminry  1,  when  tlie  sky  had  entirely  cleared 
after  a  severe  snow  storm.  The  thermome- 
ter then  stood  at  8.°  5,  the  elevation  above 
tlie  sea  being  9,400  feet.  Descending  to 
the  oak  region,  spring  weather,  rain  nnd  .sun- 
shine, prevailed.  At  an  elevation  of  4,600 
feet  the  teiiiperature,  at  the  night  encamp- 
ment of  the  3d  day  of  January,  was  38"  at 
sunset,  nnd  the  siimc  at  sunrise,  the  grass 
preen,  and  growing  •'reslily  under  the  oaks. 
The  snow  line  was  then  at  almut  6,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  tiie  sea.  Rain  had  begun 
to  fall  in  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin  in 
this  latitude  (37**)  on  the  20th  of  December, 
and  snow  at  the  same  time  upon  the  summit 
of  the  mountain.  The  mean  temperature 
of  the  mountain  during  this  ascent  and  de- 
scent (Decemlier  24  to  January  8)  was  31°. 
6'  at  sunrise,  40°.  4'  at  sunset. 

Descent  by  Mr.  Kern's  party,  latitude  36°. 
30',  December  and  January.  Mr.  Kern, 
with  a  detached  party  hud  crossed  the  Sierra 
about  one  hundred  miles  further  south,  near- 
ly opposite  the  head  of  the  Tiilarfi  lakes, 
and  remained  encamped  in  a  valley  or  cove, 
near  the  summit  of  the  Sierra,  nl  the  head 
of  Kern's  river,  from  December  27lh  to  Jan- 
uary nth ;  tho  cove  well  wooded  with  ever- 
green oak.-?,  some  varieties  of  pine,  firs  and 
cedars,  maintaining  the  usual  in.ijestic 
growth,  which  characterizes  the  cone-bear- 
ing trees  of  the  Sierra.  Until  the  12lh  of 
January  tho  weather  almost  that  of  snmmer, 
when  the  rains  commenced,  wiiich  was 
almost  three  weeks  later  than  in  latitude  37°. 
The  17th  there  was  a  fall  of  snow,  washed 
off  in  the  cove  by  a  rain  in  the  afternoon, 
the  high  ridges  remaining  covered  a  foot 
deep.  The  mean  temperature  in  the  cove 
from  December  27th  to  January  17l!i  was  at 
sunrise  26°,  at  noon  60°,  at  sunset  62°. 
After  that,  snow  and  vain,  alternated  with 
sunshine,  snow  remaining  on  the  ridges,  and 
winter  set  in  fairly  on  all  the  upper  half  of 
the  mountain. 

Asrenl  about  latitude  41°,  (April  and 
May,)  April  26,  1846— head  of  the  lower 
Sacramento  valley.  I^eft  the  river  Sacra- 
mento, going  up  one  of  the  many  pretty 
little  streams  that  fiow  iii;o  the  river  around 
the  head  of  the  lower  valley.  On  either 
side,  low  steep  ridges  were  covered  along 
their  summits  with  pine,  and  oaks  occupied 
the  somewhat  broad  bottoms  of  the  creek. 
Snowy  peaks  made  the  horizon  on  the  ri^ht, 
and  tlie  temperature  at  noon  was  71*^,  but 
the  day  was  still  and  hot.  The  small  streams 
are  numerous  here,  and  have  much  Iwltom 
land ;  grass  and  acorns  abundant,  and  both 


99 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR 


of  cycolliMit  i|iiility.  Rii(^;im|ipil  in  the  even-  ' 
in;;  ill  lulitiiil.'  10°  W'  .oh",  clcvnlicni  iibow 
tlici  fva  1,080  |i'i't,ti'iii|v  r;itiii-i'iit  :'MnM't  .')()", 
wi'iitlior  pIcMsimt.  liiifily  lic.irn  nmiifnuiH, 
four  bciiiir  killi'd  by  tlio  liiiiitcrs  iiCtcr  we 
hnd  riiciimpod. 

April  21. — Pound  ii  ^ood  way  .'iloii^  ii  fliif 
ridjic,  a  pretty,  o|)on  mountain  .stri'am  on  tlio 
rijrlit,  tlio  country  lir-uinninp  to  ansntnc  ii 
inonntainous  cliaractiT,  woinlnd  with  niiii- 
glod  oak  and  lonjj-loiivcd  |)in(',  and  havin;^  a 
Biirfiico  of  scattored  rocks',  with  irraaa  and 
flowers.  At  noon,  crossinir  a  hi^jh  ridjjo, 
the  thermometer  niiowcd  61".  At  night,  at 
an  elevation  of  2,4(50  IV'et,  w(3  encamped  on 
a  creolt  that  wont  roaring  into  the  valley; 
temperature  at  snnset  62". 

28th,  continued  up  the  stream  on  which 
we  liad  encamped,  the  country  rising  rapidly, 
clothed  with  heavy  timber.  On  crossing 
one  of  the  high  ridges  snow  and  pinus  lam- 
bertiani  appeared  together.  An  hour  before 
noon  reached  the  pass  in  the  main  ridge,  in 
an  open  pine  forest,  elevation  4,000  feet 
thermometer  at  60**,  latitndonear  41°.  Snow 
in  patches,  and  deciduous  oaks  mixed  with 
the  pines. 

Returning  npon  a  different  line,  towards 
the  lower  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  near  its 
head,  we  found  in  the  descent  a  truly  mag- 
niticcnt  forest.  It  was  composed  mainly  of 
a  cypresa  and  a  lolly  white  cedar  ( Tlivya 
gigantea)  120  to  140  feet  high,)  comn:on  in 
the  mountains  of  California.  All  were  mas- 
sive trees ;  but  the  cypress  was  distinguished 
by  its  uniformly  great  bulk.  None  were 
seen  so  large  as  are  to  be  found  in  the  coast 
mountains  near  Santa  Cruz,  but  there  was  a 
fffeatcr  number  of  large  trees — seven  feet 
Being  a  common  diameter  —  carrying  the 
bulk  eighty  or  a  hundred  feet  without  a 
limb.  At  an  elevation  of  four  thousand  six 
hundred  feet  the  temperature  at  sunset  was 
48°,  and  at  sunrise  37°.  Oaks  already 
appeared  among  the  pines,  but  did  not  yet 
show  a  leaf.  In  the  meadow  marshes  of  the 
forest  grass  was  green,  but  not  yet  abundant, 
and  the  deer  were  poor.  Descending  the 
flanks  of  the  mountain,  which  fell  gradually 
towards  the  plain,  the  way  was  through  the 
same  deep  forest.  At  the  elevation  of  about 
3,000  feet  the  timber  had  become  more  open, 
the  hills  rolling,  and  many  streams  made 
pretty  bottoms  of  rich  grass ;  the  black  oaks 
in  full  and  beautiful  leaf  were  thickly  studded 
among  the  open  pines,  which  had  become 
much  smaller  and  fewer  in  variety,  and  when 
we  halted  near  mid-day,  at  an  elevation  of 
2,200  feet,  we  were  in  one  of  the  most  plea- 
sant days  of  late  spring;  cool  and  sunny, 
with  a  pleasant  breeze,  amidst  a  profusion  of 
various  flowers ;  many  trees  in  dark  summer 
foliage,  and  some  still  in  bloom.  Among 
these  the  white  spikes  of  the  horse-chesnut. 


coiiuiioii  through  all  the  nnk  regini.,  wore 
('(inspiciKiiis.  We  had  a^'ain  reached  .sum- 
uiiT  weather,  iiiul  the  tom|K'ratur(i  at  noon 
wan  70". 

In  the  arternoon  wo  rlesreniliMl  to  the  open 
valley  of  the  Sacramento,  1,000  leet  lower, 
where  the  theniioineter  was  tlH'  at  sunset, 
and  51°  at  Fiinrise,  This  was  (he  best  tim- 
bered region  that  I  had  seen,  and  the  more 
valualilo  from  its  position  near  tiio  head  of 
the  lower  valley  of  the  Sacrotnenio,  and 
accessible  from  its  waters. 

flay  of  San  Fraiiciaro  ami  thpcndenl 
rounin/.— The  bay  of  San  Fmncisco  ha.s 
lieen  celebrated,  from  the  time  of  its  first; 
discovery,  .is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world, 
and  is  justly  entitled  to  that  character  even 
under  the  seaman's  view  of  a  mere  harbor. 
But  when  all  tr.e  accessory  advantJigcs 
which  belong  to  it —fertile  and  picturesqui" 
dependent  country,  mildnes;  and  salubrity  oi 
climate,  connexion  with  the  groat  interior 
valley  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin, 
its  vast  resources  for  ship  tindier,  grain  and 
cattle — when  these  advantages  are  token 
into  the  account,  with  its  geographical  posl 
tion  on  the  line  of  communication  with  Asia, 
it  rises  into  an  importtmce  far  ab<nc  that  of 
a  mere  harbor,  and  deserves  a  particular  no- 
tice in  any  account  of  maritime  California, 
its  latitudinal  position  is  that  of  Lisbon ;  itn 
climate  is  that  of  southern  Italy;  settle- 
ments upon  it  for  more  than  half  a  century 
attest  its  healthiness ;  bold  shores  and  moun- 
toins  give  it  grandeur ;  the  extent  and  fer- 
tility of  its  dependent  country  give  it  great 
resources  for  agriculture,  commerce,  and 
population. 

The  bay  of  San  Francisco  is  separated 
from  the  sea  by  low  mountain  ranges.  Look- 
ing fiom  the  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the 
coast  mountains  present  an  apparently  con- 
tinuous line,  with  only  a  single  gap,  resem- 
bling a  mountain  jmiss.  This  is  the  entrance 
to  the  great  bay,  and  is  the  only  water  com- 
munication from  the  coast  to  the  interior 
coilntry.  Approaching  from  the  sea,  the 
coast  presents  a  bold  outline.  On  the  south, 
the  bordering  mountains  come  down  in  a  nar- 
row ridge  of  broken  hills,  terminating  in  a  pre- 
cipitous point,  against  which  the  sea  breaks 
heavily.  On  the  northern  side,  the  moun- 
tain presents  a  bold  promontory,  rising  in  a 
few  miles  to  a  height  of  two  or  three  thousand 
feet.  Between  these  points  is  the  strait — 
about  one  mile  broad,  in  the  narrowest  part, 
and  five  miles  long  from  the  sea  to  the  bay. 
Passing  through  this  gate,*  the  bay  opens  to 
the  right  and  lefl,  extending  in  each  direction 

•  Called  ChrtjKopyta  (Golden  Gale)  on  the  man,  on 

the  «ame  principle  that  the  harbor  of  Hyzantiiim  (Con- 

stanlinuple  aOerwarilt)  waa  called  Chrysnrcraa  (gnlden 

i  horn  )    The  fonn  of  the  harbnt.  and  its  advnntajtes  for 

I  commerce,   (and   that  before  it  became  an  entrepot  of 

'  eattern  commerce,)  auggeited   the   name  to    the  UreeK 


fg^a^'-^    fe  - 


1  tlio  (ink  rop;ini.,  won 
Imd  ii^'iiin  rt'iiclii'ij  .siim- 
10  tiMii|K'rutiir(i  lit  noon 

■o  iIosci'ikIimI  to  the  open 
lu'iito,  1,1101)  Ifct  lowrr, 
I'tcr  wiiH  ti8^  at  sunset, 

'riiis  \\:i.-i  llic  hprit  tim- 
i;i(l  sciMi.  iiiid  llio  inoro 
Dsitioii  near  tiio  head  of 
f  tlio  Sacraiiiniili),  nml 
■atoH. 
rancinri)   ami    (I'^jftident 

of  Hail  Fmiicisco  has 
im  the  time  of  its  first 
f  tiio  liiiest  in  tiio  world, 
I  to  that  character  even 
view  of  II  mere  harbor, 
accessory  advantages 
-fertile  and  picturesqui^ 
mildnes;  and  salnbrity  oi 
with  thi}  proat  interior 
mcnto  and  San  Joaquin, 
r  sliip  findior,  {jrain  and 

advantages  are  taken 
ith  its  geoirrapliical  posi 
ommunication  with  Asia, 
lortance  far  above  that  of 
deserves  a  particular  no- 
;  of  maritime  California, 
on  is  that  of  Lisbon ;  itB 

southern  Italy  j  settle- 
more  than  half  a  century 
I ;  bold  shores  and  moun- 
enr ;  the  extent  and  fer- 
3nt  country  give  it  great 
culture,   commerce,   and 

Francisco  is  separated 
mountain  ranges.  Look- 
Df  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the 
esont  an  apparently  con- 
jnly  a  single  gap,  resem- 
83.  This  is  the  entrance 
d  is  the  only  water  com- 
[le  coast  to  the  interior 
hing  from  the  sea,  the 
d  outline.  On  the  south, 
ains  come  down  in  a  nar- 
hills,  terminating  in  a  pre- 
nst  which  the  sea  breaks 
lorthern  side,  the  moun- 

promontory,  rising  in  a 
t  of  two  or  three  thousand 
se  points  is  the  strait — 
i,  in  the  narrowest  part, 
from  the  sea  to  the  bay. 
s  gate,*  the  bay  opens  to 
(tending  in  each  direction 

(Golden  Gate)  on  the  man,  on 
the  harbor  of  Hyzantiiim  (Con- 
voA  called  Chrysorrraa  (goltleo 
I  harbnr.  and  its  a(lvnnta;;GS  for 
*fore  It  became  an  entrepot  of 
Vsted    the   name  to    the  Ureels 


I 


UPON  UPPKR  CALIFORNIA 


9t 


about  I!.")  miles,  haviiii:  a  '.o\n\  liMijitliuf  inurt' 
♦h;i.n  7'i.iiiiil  a  i'iia>f  of'  aljuut  ii7.")  mill's.  It  is 
JiviiL'd,  liy  straits  and  projocliiig  points,  into 
tiin^'  .*i.,'|ii'riit(>  liiiy,  oi'  which  IIm'  nortliern 
t'.vd  iit/>  .mIIciI  S:iii  I'alilo  and  Siiisoon  bays. 
Within,  the  \i'-\r  presented  is  of  a  nioiintain- 
mv.i  country,  '.ho  hay  ri'sciiibling  an  interior 
lake  of  deep  .viiier,  lying  between  parallel 
raii;.'es  of  moiii.i  lins.  Islands,  which  have 
the  bold  cliaractpr  ol'tlie  shores — some  mere 
mas.ses  of  rmk,  and  others  grass-covered, 
rising  to  till-  lieif^dil  of  three  and  eight  hun- 
drtd  I'eet — break  its  stirfaco  and  add  to  its 
•pit  tiires(|iie  a|)peurance.  Directly  fronting 
flio  entrance,  inoiinlains  a  few  miles  from 
tlie  shore  rise  about  ii.OOO  feet  aliove  the 
water,  crowned  iiy  a  forest  of  the  lofty  c//- 
vrcss,  whicli  is  visible  from  the  sea,  and 
makes  a  conspicuous  landmark  for  vessels 
entering  the  bay.  Jlehind,  the  rugged  peak 
of  Mount  Di'tfdlo,  nearly  4,000  feet  high, 
f 3.770)  overlooks  the  surrounding  country 
of  the  bay  and  San  .loaquin. 

The  immediate  slioro  of  the  bay  derives, 
from  its  pruxintate  and  opposite  relation  to 
the  sea,  the  name  of  contra  casta  (counter- 
coast,  or  opposite  coast).  It  presents  a  varied 
'".haractcr  of  rugged  and  broken  hills,  rolling 
and  undulating  land,  and  rich  alluvial  shores 
Backed  by  fertile  and  wooded  ranges,  suitable 
'i'.r  towns,  villages,  and  farms,  with  which  it 
.8  beginning  ti>  be  dotted.  A  low  alluvial 
Ijottom  land,  several  miles  in  breadth,  with 
occasional  open  woods  of  oak,  borders  the 
foot  of  the  mountains  around  the  southern 
arm  of  the  bay,  terminating  on  a  breadth  of 
twenty  niill's  in  the  lertile  valley  of  St.  Jo- 
seph, a  narrow  plain  of  rich  soil,  lying  be- 
tween ranges  from  two  to  tliroo  thousand 
feet  iiigh.  The  valley  is  openly  wooded, 
with  groves  of  oak,  free  from  underbrush, 
and  after  the  spring  rains  covered  with  grass. 
Taken  in  connection  with  the  valley  of  San 
Juim,  with  which  it  forms  a  continuous  plain, 
it  is  tifty-fivo  miles  long  and  one  to  twenty 
broad,  opening  into  smaller  valleys  among 
Uie  hills.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  it  is  twenty 
miles  broad,  and  about  the  same  at  the  south- 
ern end,  where  the  soil  is  beautifully  fertile, 
covered  in  summer  with  four  or  five  varieties 
of  wild  clover  several  feet  high.  In  many 
places  it  is  overgrown  with  wild  mustard, 
growing  ten  or  twelve  feet  high,  in  almost 
impenetrable  fields,  through  which  roads  are 
made  like  lanes.  On  both  sides  the  moun- 
tains are  fertile,  wooded,  or  covered  with 
grasses  and  scattered  trees.  On  the  west  it 
is  protected  from  the  chilling  influence  of 
the  northwest  winds  by  the  cuesta  tie  los  ga- 
'.IIS,  (wild-cat  ridge),  which  separates  it  from 

founileri  of  Hvzantlnm.  The  foim  of  the  entrance  into  j 
'he  buy  of  San  Franclscn,  and  itsi  ndvi.nt;)^e)  for  corn  I 
mercc.  (Aiintic  incUuiie,)  suggest  ihr  name  which  »  , 
|ivec  to  this  ent-anca. 


Ilie  Coast.  This  is  a  grassy  I'lul  liinln  re,l 
mountain,  watered  willi  small  sire.ims,  and 
wooiled  on  both  sid  ith  many  \arieties  of 
trees  and  sliriibber)  .i  heavier  forests  of 
[liiui  and  cypress  occ.npving  the  western 
slope.  Timber  and  shingles  are  now  obhiin- 
ed  fi'iMU  this  mount. ill)  ;  and  oni>  oi'  ihu 
recently  iliscovered  (piicksilv('r  mines  is  on 
the  Pastern  side  of  tlii>  monntain,  near  iho 
I'neblo  of  San  Jos6.  'I'liis  ran};!'  terminates 
on  the  south  in  tlie  Ahud  .\ iiiid  point  ^f 
Monterey  bay,  and  on  the  north  ileclines  into 
a  ridge  of  broken  hills  about  five  miles  wide, 
tetwccn  the  bay  and  the  sea,  and  having  the 
town  of  San  Francisco  on  the  bay  shore, 
near  its  northern  extremity. 

Sheltered  from  the  cold  winds  and  fogs  of 
the  sea,  and  having  a  soil  of  remarkable  fer- 
tility, the  valley  of  St.  Joseph  (Sun  Jos6)  is 
capable  of  producing  in  groat  perfection 
many  fruits  and  grains  which  do  not  thrive 
on  the  coast  in'its  immediate  vicinity.  With- 
out taking  into  consideration  the  extraordi- 
nary yields  which  have  sometimes  occurred, 
the  fair  average  product  of  wheat  is  estimated 
at  fifty  fold,  or  fifty  for  one  sown.  The  mis- 
sion establishments  of  Sana  Clara  and  San 
Josi,  in  the  north  end  of  the  valley,  were 
formerly,  in  the  prosperous  days  of  the  mis- 
sions,  distinguished  for  the  superiority  of 
their  wheat  crops. 

The  slope  of  alluvial  land  continues  en- 
tirely around  the  eastern  shore  of  the  bay, 
intersected  by  small  streams,  and  offering 
some  points  which  good  landing  and  deep 
water,  with  advantageous  positions  between 
the  sea  and  interior  country,  indicate  for 
future  settlement. 

The  strait  of  Carquinea,  about  one  mile 
wide  and  eight  or  ten  fathoms  deep,  connects 
the  San  Pablo  and  Suisoon  bays.  Around 
these  bays  smaller  ^'alleys  open  into  the  bor- 
dering country,  and  some  of  the  streams 
have  a  short  launch  navigation,  which  serves 
to  convey  produce  to  the  bay.  Missions  and 
large  farms  were  established  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  these  streams,  which  are  favor- 
able sites  for  towns  or  villages.  The  country 
around  tl"e  Suisoon  bay  presents  smooth  low 
ridges  a:  xl  rounded  hills,  clothed  with  wild 
oats,  ana  more  or  less  openly  wooded  on 
their  summits.  Approaching  its  northern 
shores  from  Sonoma,  it  assumes,  though  in 
a  state  of  nature,  a  cultivated  and  beautiful 
appearance.  Wild  oats  cover  it  in  continu- 
ous fields,  and  herds  of  cattle  and  bands  of 
horses  are  scattered  over  low  hills  and  partly 
isolated  ridges,  where  blue  mists  and  open- 
ings among  the  abruptly  tenninating  hills 
indicate  the  neighborhooti  of  the  bay. 

The  Suisoon  is  connected  with  an  expan 
sioii  of  the  river  formed  by  the  junction  of 
the  Sacramento  and  San  Josiquin,  which  en- 
ter tJie  Francisco  oav  in  ihe  ?airte  latitude 


H 


iiifiiwinriiinginifi  ^ifc^^m 


^iHi 


'lt 


m"-^ 


IJIUUillAIMIICAI,  MI'.MOIR 


I 


lUMily,  n^  tlin  iiiniilli  (if  llic  Tiiu'ih  ,ii  Lj^Ikiii, 

A  lll'llll  Ol   IWCIltV-livc  ItlilcTl  ill  ll|l;;lll,  (livilll'll 

iiilii  i>liiiiils  liy  ili'''|)  ('liuiilii'l.-<,  (•(iiiMi'Ctj«  till' 
liny  with  tin'  vullt'y  »(  llm  Sati  Juiniiiiii  iin  I 
Siicniliiriltii,  iiilii  llii>  inniitliH  iil  wliii'll  llii< 
tide  lli'WH,  mill  wliirli  I'litiT  Ilic  bay  tdj^ntliiT 
Hi'  <iin'  liver. 

Siuli  is  I  ho  liay,  nnd  tln!  proximnto  roiiii- 
Uy  iiMil  slhirc"  111'  till'  liny  of  Sim  Frnncifci). 
It  is  not  II  iiii'i'i!  iiidi'iitation  of  tin*  const,  lint 
a  liltle  "I'n  to  iiscll',  I'liiiiu'ctpd  with  tlii!  oronii 
liy  II  iii'l(Mi»<il)li!  unit',  (i|i(>Miii;f  out  lictwi'CM 
8(!veiify  mill  I'iirlity  iiiiluK  to  tin-  rijflit  nml 
left,  1111011  II  lirt'iidtli  of  tt'Ti  to  tiftf'i'M,  dot»[) 
eiioii)jrii  fortlic  liir);(>st  Rlii|is,  with  ixiid  Hlioros 
8iiitiible  for  towns  iiii'!  Ni'ttleiimnts,  and  fortiln 
adjnc(>nt  country  for  cultivation.  Tlio  head 
of  the  JNiy  is  aitoiit  forty  miles  from  the  himi, 
and  tiiere  commences  its  connection  with 
the  noblo  vitlloyMof  the  San  Joiiqiiin  and  Sa- 
cramento. 

CiHiKl  country  north  of  Ihn  hay  of  San 
Francisco. — Between  the  Sacramento  valley 
and  tlio  const,  north  of  tlu'  bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, the  country  is  broken  into  monntnin 
ridges  nnd  rolling  hills,  with  many  very  fer- 
tile valleys,  iiuido  by  lakes  and  small  streams. 
In  the  inlcrliir  it  is  wo<3dcd,  generally  with 
oak,  and  immediately  along  the  const  presents 
open  prnirii!  lands,  among  heavily  timbered 
forests,  having  a  greater  variety  of  trees,  and 
occttsioimlly  a  larger  growth  thnn  the  tim- 
bered region  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  In  some 
parts  it  is  entirely  covered,  in  areas  of  many 
miles,  with  a  close  growth  of  wild  oats,  to 
the  exclusion  of  almost  every  other  plant. 
In  tiic  latter  part  of  June  and  \  u  'iiining  of 
July,  we  found  "icre  a  climate  sensibly  dif- 
ferent from  that  of  the  Sacramento  valiey,  a 
few  miles  east,  being  much  cooler  and  moister. 
In  clear  weather,  the  mornings  were  like 
those  of  the  Rocky  mountains  in  August, 

fleasant  and  cool,  following  cold  clear  nights, 
n  that  part  lying  nearer  the  coast,  we  found 
the  mornings  sometimes  cold,  accompanied 
with  chilling  winds;  and  fogs  frequently 
came  rolling  up  over  the  ridges  from  the  sea. 
These  sometimes  rose  at  evening,  and  con- 
tinued until  noon  of  the  next  day.  They 
are  not  dry,  but  wet  mists,  leaving  the  face 
of  the  country  covered  as  by  a  drizzling  rain. 
This  sometimes  causes  rust  in  wheat  grown 
within  its  influence,  but  vegetables  flourish 
and  attain  extraordinary  size. 

I  learned  from  Captain  Smitli,  a  resident 
at  Bodega,  tJiat  the  winter  months  make  a 
delightful  season — rainy  days  (genendly  of 
warm  showers)  altemating  with  mild  and 
calm,  pleasant  weather,  and  pure  bright 
skies — much  preferable  to  the  summer,  when 
the  fogs  and  strong  northwest  winds,  which 
prevail  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year, 
make  the  morning  part  of  the  day  disagreea- 
bly cold. 


-•vt<l»l  liril.^        IIKIIII     MIMK     \y       > 

fruit  ri|H'ns  late,  geiierii 
gust,  iH'iiig  reliinli'il  liy 


(•uiii«_'  |iniliiili!y  I''  the  fog",  spring  is  POT" 
iier  iiliiiiLr  the  loiist  iImii  hi  the  'n'crior, 
where, till riii|,r  tin-  interval  lieHve-i)  'if:  ta'tU, 
the  (.'niiiiiil  liei'iiiiies  very  ilrv.  I'ViwcM 
hliiiiMi  ill  DeceiiiU'r.  mill  by  lli"  lie:;;iiiniii,r  of 
Feliriinry  grass  lU'ijiiires  II  slrniiir  mid  Ir.xu- 
rimit  growth,  mul  fruit  freer  (|>i'i,cli,  pear, 
apple,  ite.)  are  covereil  with  iilcis.-tiiim.  In 
itiiatioii^  iiiiiiieiliiitely  o|ieii  lo  Hie  sen  the 
;eiieriilly  at  the  eiiil  of  Au- 
lerhilliii;!  inlliienco 
of  the  iinrthwesl  wiiiiis  :  a  short  ilistmii'O  in- 
land, where  iiitervoiiing  rlilgesolislriict  these 
winds  and  shelter  the  fnce  of  the  country, 
there  is  a  iliirerenl  rliiiinie  mid  11  remarkable 
dirt'orence  in  the  time  of  ri|K'niiig  fruits  ;  the 
heat  of  the  sun  has  full  inlliieiice  on  the 
wiil,  and  vegetation  gws  rapidly  to  perfec- 
tion. 

The  country  in  July  liegnn  to  present  the 
dry  appcanince  common  to  all  California  as 
the  Kunnner  ndvanci's,  excent  along  the 
norfliern  coast  within  the  intlucnce  of  the 
fog«,  or  where  the  land  is  sheltered  by  for- 
estb,  .ind  in  the  moist  valleys  of  streams  and 

vc.)  of  the  hills.  In  some  of  these  was  an 
iincon,monly  luxuriant  growth  of  oats,  still 
partially  green,  while  elsewhere  tlioy  were 
dried  up;  the  face  of  the  country  presenting 
generally  a  mellow  nnd  ripened  np[M'ar- 
anco,  and  the  small  streams  beginning  to 
lose  their  volume,  and  draw  up  into  liie 
hills. 

This  nortlicm  part  of  the  coast  country 
is  heivily  tiinliercd,  more  so  as  it  goes 
nortli  to  the  Oregon  Ixmndnry,  (42°,)  with 
many  bold  streams  tailing  directly  into  the 
sea. 

TV  country  between  the  hays  of  San 
Francinco  and  Montcrei/, — In  the  latter  part 
of  January,  1846,  a  few  shrubs  nnd  How- 
ers  were  already  in  blcKim  on  the  sandy  shore 
of  Monterey  nay  flat.  SG'  40'.)  Among 
these  were  the  California  poppy,  and  ne- 
7nophila  inKiqnIs. 

On  the  •'tth  February  I  found  many  shrubs 
and  plants  in  bloom,  in  the  coast  mountains 
bordering  St.  Joseph's  valley,  between  Mon- 
terey nml  tlio  bay  of  San  Francisco;  and 
vegetation  appeared  much  more  green  and 
snring-like,  and  furtlier  ailvanced,  than  in  the 
plains.  About  the  middle  of  February  I 
noticed  tlie  geranium  in  flower  in  the  val- 
iey ;  and  from  that  time  vegetation  began 
generally  to  bloom.  Cattle  were  obtaineJ  in 
February,  from  ranchos  among  the  neigh- 
boring hills,  extremely  fat,  selected  from  Qie 
herds  in  the  range. 

During  the  months  of  January  and  Feb- 
ruary rainy  diiys  alternated  with  longer  inter- 
vals of  fair  and  pleasant  weather,  which  ia 
the  character  of  the  rainy  season  in  Cahfor- 
nia.  The  mean  temperature  in  the  valley 
of  St.  Joseph — open  to  the  bay  of  Son  FWh 


HiiMMIi 


.  ilio  (,tg-\  oprin},'  la  pot- 
t  lliiii  lit  till)  in'rrir.r, 
icrviil  lii'twp"!)  'if!  ta!n>i 
•s  vrry  ilrv.  l''ov/vri 
mill  l>v  ill"  l)''::iiiMiii,j  of 
lire?!  II  sinnij;  iiMil  liixii- 
riiit  Iri'p:  (|w'i.rli,  |)f>iir, 
timI  with  litiif-.-iMiw,  In 
'ly  ii|>''ii  I')  ilio  Hou  the 
iiTiilly  lit  till'  I'liil  of  An- 
il'/ 'lii'rhilliii;;  influence 
ihIh  :  II  !<h(irt  distimro  in- 
iiic;  riiljji'solistriict  llinso 
he  tiii'f  i)f  thii  country, 
liiiiiitc  iiiul  II  riMiiiirkabio 
(•  ot'  ri|M'iiiii({  IriiitH  ;  the 
s  full  inlliii'iicn  (in  the 
tfix's  ra|iidly  to  porfec- 

ily  Ix'ipin  to  present  the 
iiion  to  all  C'lilifomia  os 
coH,  exceiit  along  the 
lin  the  intliienco  of  the 
ind  'i>*  sheltered  by  for- 
it  valley!)  of  strciuns  and 
In  some  of  these  was  nn 
imt  {{rowth  of  outs,  still 
le  olsewhoro  tliey  were 
if  the  r.oiintry  presenting 
/  mill  ripened  an(M'ur- 
II  fitreiiina  bej^inning  to 
and  draw  up  into  the 

rt  of  the  const  countr) 
,  iiioro  so  as  it  goes 
n  Ixiiindiiry,  (42°,)  with 
tailing  directly  into  tiie 

ceen  the  hays  nf  San 
creij, — In  the  latter  part 
n  lew  shrubs  and  Hnw- 
»l(Kiiii  on  the  siindv  shore 
lilt.  Sfi"  40'.)  Among 
ifornia  poppy,  and   ne- 

iry  I  found  many  shrubs 
in  the  coast  mountains 
's  valley,  between  Men- 
of  San  Francisco;  and 

much  more  green  and 
ler  advanced,  tlian  in  the 

middle  of  February  I 
m  in  flower  iii  the  val- 

time  A-fgetation  began 

Cattle  were  obtained  in 
chos  among  the  neigh- 
ily  fat,  selected  from  Uie 

ha  of  January  and  Feb- 
rniited  with  longer  inter- 
isiint  weather,  which  i» 
rainy  season  in  Califor* 
nperature  in  the  valley 
to  the  bay  of  San  Fran- 


I 


UPON  UPPKR  CAMFORNlA. 


eicffv— from  the  I.ltli  to  lhi«.''Jdof  Filirinry, 
wiis  fto"  .it  -'iiiiriM',  anil  III  "'lit  ^iii.-ti't.  'I'lii' 
oakf"  ill  tlii-'  nilli'V,  c'-ip('ri;illy  iiloiiir  ||i(«  lodt 
')f  tl;n  Iii'.!',  iiri'  pirtlv  rovcrnl  with  Imiir 
f,ai'.i;iir»  Mills?* — ail  inilirntlon  of  nun  li  'ui- 
•I'i'll'y  Ml  :lw  cliiinti'. 

We  riMii:iiiii'il  "I'Vi'Mil  i!;iys,  in  tlir  liilti-r 
part  of  I''ilirii.iry,  in  tlio  ii|i|M'r  portion  nf  tlio 
cii.nK'  iiiuiiiitiuii  lii'lwi'i'ii  St.  .Iiisi'pli  iiiiil 
Hiiiitn  Crii/..  'I'lie  piiieeof  our  I'liciiiiipnirnt 
was  2,0111)  !"i'i>f  iiIhivi'  the  sen,  iiiiil  was  rov- 
"rcd  uilli  11  liiMiriiiiit  growth  of  grass,  a 
'oot  hii,'li  in  iiiiiny  plaei's.  At  siiiirisi'  tin" 
tf.inperaliire  w.i-'  Id';  at  n'Hin  (iO";  at  4  in 
the  afternoon  li,')";  niid  (!:i"  iit  sunset;  with 
\ery  pli-asmit  wcnthi-r.  The  mountains  were 
wooded  willi  iiiiiny  viiriilies  of  trees,  and  in 
some  parts  with  heavy  forests.  These  for- 
eats  are  I'luirncleri/.i'il  bv  a  cypress  {taxn- 
ditim)  of  pxtiaorilinary  ilimensions,  already 
meiitionefl  aiiiony;  the  trees  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  which  is  ilistitigiiished  among  the 
forest  trees  of  America  by  its  superior  size 
and  height,  Among  many  which  wo  men- 
oured  in  this  part  of  the  mountain,  nine  and 
ten  feet  diameter  wiis  freipient — eleven  some- 
i/'mes ;  hut  going  luiyond  eleven  only  in  a 
single  tree,  which  rear  bed  fourteen  feet  in 
iliar.ieter.  .AlHive  two  hundred  feet  was  a 
I'r-rquent  height.  In  this  locality  the  bark 
v/iuJ  very  deeply  furrowed,  and  unusually 
thick,  lieing  fully  sixteon  inches  in  some  of 
the  trees.  The  tree  was  now  in  bloom,  flow- 
ering near  the  siimniii,  and  the  flowers  con- 
seiiuently  difficult  to  procure.  This  is  the 
"■tiple  timlKT  tree  of  tlw  country,  being  eiit 
into  btith  Ixmnls  and  shingles,'  and  i.s  the 
principal  timlxir  sawed  iit  the  mills.  It  is 
eoft,  and  easily  worked,  wearing  away  too 
quickly  to  be  used  for  floors.  It  sceuis  to 
i.ivo  all  the  durability  which  anciently  gave 
[he  cypress  so  much  celebrity,  Posts  which 
liave  liecn  exposed  to  the  weather  for  three 
quarters  of  a  century  (since  the  foundation 
of  the  missions)  show  no  marks  of  decay  in 
the  wood,  and  are  now  converted  into  beams 
ind  posts  for  private  buildings.  In  Califor- 
Aia  tnis  tree  is  called  the  jutlo  colnvado.  It 
a  the  king  of  trees. 

Among  the  oal»s  is  n  handsome  lofty  ever- 
green species,  specificjilly  difterent  from  those 
of  the  lower  grounds,  and  in  its  general  ap- 
pearance much  resembling  hickory.  The 
bark  is  smooth,  of  a  white  color,  and  the 
vood  hard  and  close-grained.  It  seems  to 
prefer  the  north  hill  sides,  where  some  were 
nearly  four  feet  in  diameter  and  n  hundred 
feet  high. 

Another  remarkable  tree  of  these  woods 
is  culled  in  the  language  of  the  country  wn- 
dnmo.  It  is  a  lieaiitifnl  evergreen,  with 
nrge,  thick,  and  glossv  diijitate  leaves,  the 
trunk  and  brnnches  reddish  colored,  and  hav- 
ing a  smooth  and  singularly  naked  appear- 


MMce,  ns  if  the  barl  h;i(l  iieen  "Tfippiwt  off 
In  its  gri'cn  ^f.■lte  the  wnod  is  brittle,  very 
hi'iivy,  li.inl,  iiii'l  I'liwi'.i^rniined  ;  if  is  sniil  tn 
nssinne  ii  ri-d  cnl.ir  ulicii  dry,  somi'timrs  va- 
riegated, ami  siisri'|itih|o  of  a  hiijh  polixh. 
This  tree  wii.^  found  liy  lis  only  in  the  moun- 
tains. Some  leeusiireil  lu'arly  lour  feet  in 
diiimeter,  and  were  iilHiiit  sixty  leet  hii,'li. 

A  lew  ^ciiltcreil  llowers  were  now  show- 
ing tliroii!;lioiit  the  torests,  and  on  the  ojM'n 
ridge.-i  sliniln  were  flowering;  biitthcblimm 
was  not  yet  gciieriil. 

On  the  'J.^ili  Febriiiiry.  we  divi.-nded  to 
the  coa-t  neiir  the  iiorthweslerii  point  of 
Monterey  bay,  loiiiig our  line  wciither,  which 
in  the  evening  changed  into  a  cold  south- 
easterly storm,  continuing  with  heavy  and 
constant  rains  for  several  days. 

During  this  time  the  moan  temperature 
wos  S-l"  lit  sunrise,  6<i".6at  !tli.,  a.m.j.W.S 
at  noon,  5 1"..5  at  'Jh.  in  the  afternoon,  63*^.4 
at  4,  and  ft2°.7  at  sunset.  On  the  28th,  a 
thick  fog  was  over  the  bnv  and  on  the  moun- 
tains at  sunrise,  and  the  tlierninmeter  was  at 
38" — 16'^  liolow  the  ordinary  temperature — 
rising  at  U  o'clock  to  69".  These  fogs  pre- 
vail along  the  coast  during  a  great  part  of 
the  summer  and  antiiniii,  but  do  not  cross  the 
ridges  into  the  interior.  This  locality  is  cele- 
brated for  the  excellence  and  greot  size  of 
its  vegetables,  (es|)eciallly  the  Irish  potato 
and  onions,)  with  which,  for  this  reason,  it 
has  for  many  years  supplied  the  shipping 
which  visits  Monterey.  A  forest  of  pah 
cnlnrmhi  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  in  this 
vicinity,  is  noted  for  the  great  size  and  height 
of  the  trees.  I  measured  one  which  was 
275  feet  in  height  and  fifteen  feet  in  diame- 
ter, three  feet  aliove  the  base.  Though  this 
was  distinguished  by  the  greatest  girth, other 
surrounding  trees  were  but  little  inferior  in 
size  and  still  taller.  Their  colossal  height 
and  massive  bull;  give  an  air  of  grandeur  to 
•lie  forest. 

These  trees  grow  tallest  in  the  bottom 
lands,  and  prefer  moist  soils  and  north  hill- 
sides. In  situations  whore  they  are  pro- 
tected from  the  prevailing  northwest  winds, 
they  shoot  up  to  a  great  height;  but  wherever 
their  heads  are  exposed,  these  winds  appear 
to  chill  them  and  stop  their  growth.  They 
then  assume  a  spreading  sliajie,  with  larger 
branches,  and  an  apparently  broken  summit. 

The  niin  storm  closed  with  February,  and 
the  weather  becoming  tine,  on  the  1st  of 
March  we  resumed  our  progress  along  the 
coast.  Over  the  face  of  the  country  lietween 
Santa  Cruz  and  Monterey,  and  around  the 
plains  of  St.  John,  the  grass,  which  had  been 
eaten  down  by  the  large  herds  of  cattle,  was 
now  every  where  springing  up ;  flowers 
Degiin  ,o  show  their  blixim.ond  in  the  valleys 
of  the  moinit^iins  bordering  the  Silinns  plains, 
(a  plait)  of  some  lilly  miles  in  length,  made 


f"^ 


mm 


M 


UlUKiUArmCAL  MK.MDIR 


I 


by  tl  0  Si.liiin^  ri\i'r.)  wild  iml-i  wi'm  llirco 
fi'ct  lii(|li,  i.ikI  well  lioml(>d,  by  tlio  Otli  of 
Marrh. 

Durinij  ilirc"  ilny*  tlint  wo  riMimiiifd  on 
imi-  III'  tUv*i'  iiKiiintiiiii'",  nt  iii)  rlcvnlinn  o( 
a.'joo  (i'ct  uliiivc  till-  --I'll,  iiml  in  Hiirlit  nt  Mon- 
tori'V.  th''  iiii'iiii  li'iii)i<TiitMri' \v«"  1 1"  Ml  snii- 
rUp,' Or>°  nt  it  III  till'  iiiiirtiin)»,  <)()"  lit  tiiHin. 
ea"  nt  '2  in  llif  iiltiTiiiMiii,  rn°  m  A,  nnd  M^ 
nt  Hunni't.  At  till'  Miinr  liiMirH  tin-  (low  [xiint 
WM  •IJ'-'.O,  IM^.l.ftJ^.H,  ,'jl".il.fl2".|).6|",«, 
snd  tlio  (|iiiiMtity  (il  iiiiiiHiiiri'  in  i\  culiic  fiM)t 
ot  Mir,  H.'JHa  ifr^.,  M.OS'J  irrn.,  .1.7^0  grx., 
4.0"iJ  (.TH.,  -t.liH'J  {.''■^•'  '""'  -Ifi'W  ifrn.,  ro- 
•pcdlvely.  TIk"  wi'iitiuT  ri'iniiinpa  bri;»lit 
and  pIcaNiint ;  fiiy:s  Hnnirtinu'H  coverinjf  tlii) 
moinitniMH  at  Miiiri:-n',  but  ffniiifj  nfT  in  u  (tnv 
hours.  'I'hi'.to  urn  upon  inninitninn,  iintiin' 
bcri'il,  iiiit  fiTtilo  in  mits  nnd  otlu'r  (jruHsfH, 
nfforilin^  lini'  riini'n  fur  cnttli'.  ()nk«  uiid 
pines  ari>  nciUfi>ro(r  tliiiily  <>vcr  llioir  upper 
pnrtH,  nnd  in  tlm  hifflu'r  nnd  moro  o.xposod 
BitiiotiuiiH  tlin  cvi'rjirppn  oakH  hIiow  tlio 
courcp  nnd  intliirnco  of  tlio  northwPHt  windn, 
ntuiitod  nnd  lilifflitpd  l.>y  tlipir  chillnodB,  bent 
to  tho  (rruiitid  by  tlicir  force,  nnd  growing  in 
thnt  form. 

DciTPnditi^  into  flip  vnlipy  of  tlio  Snn 
Joaquin,  (Miirdi  tltii.)  wo  found  ubnoHt  n 
Humnipr  tpiniicraturo.  and  tlio  country  clothed 
in  tho  floral  liraiify  of  advanced  spring. 

Sniilkmi  nninln/  and  raintj  season,  (lati- 
rurff.i3-2*'— 3.';°.— Hiuitli  of  Point  Conception 
tho  climate  and  {feneriil  nnpenrancn  of  tho 
country  e.xliiliit  a  marked  cliaiiiio.  The 
coast  irotn  that  capo  trenilH  I'Imo-it  directly 
en«t,  tho  face  of  the  country  lia;4  a  moro 
southern  exposure,  nnd  is  sheltered  by  ningos 
of  low  mountains  from  the  violence  nnd  chill- 
ing effect  of  tho  northwest  winds  ;  hence  tho 
chmoto  ia  still  more  mild  nnd  (fenial,  foster- 
ing a  richer  vnriety  of  productions,  difllTing 
in  Kind  from  those  of  tlio  northern  const. 

Tlie  faco  of  the  country  nlonnr  the  coast 
ia  gcnernlly  naked,  the  lower  hills  and  pl.iins 
devoid  of  trcos,  diirinir  the  Hiimmor  heats 
parched  nnd  hare,  and  water  sparsely  distri- 
Duted.  Tho  hij,'lier  rid^'os  nnd  (he  country 
in  their  immediate  vicinity  are  nUvaysmoreor 
lc88,  and  (sometimes  prcllily,  woikIou.  These 
usually  afford  water  and  good  green  grass 
throughout  the  year.  When  tho  pJains  hnvo 
become  dry,  parched  and  liare  of  grass,  tho 
cnttle  go  up  into  these  ridg(\s,  whore,  with 
cooler  w*ither  and  shade,  they  tind  wntcr 
nnd  good  pasture.  In  tho  dryest  part  of  the 
year  wo  found  slicep  and  cuttlo  fat,  nnd 
saw  flowers  bliMiming  in  nil  the  months  of 
the  year.  Along  the  foot  of  tho  main 
ridges  the  soil  is  rich  and  comparatively 
moist,  wooded,  with  grass  and  wator  abun- 
dant ;  and  ninny  localities  woidd  affoid  beaii- 
lifid  and  pioiiiu-'ive  farms.  Th.""  ranges  of 
tho  aiirni  All  /i/'i  'here  approaching  iutoi- 


niinnlion)  ttill  rpiiiain  lii^'li — ^lome  pe:ikn 
nlway*  retaining  snow — and  iillnrd  copious 
streams,  which  run  all  llie  year.  Many  of 
these  iitremiis  are  niHiirl  ril  i'!  (he  light  ^'il! 
of  llif  Inrirer  plnim*  helo-e  ;!.i'y  reach  th' 
ceil.  I'ri,-.r!y  ilirccted,  !  *  .v-iiler  of  the  r 
rivr-i  is  Hii-ticlriit  to  sptev,  i  iiltivntlon  ov.'r 
the  plain:'.  'riiroiighoiiL  Uie  country  every 
farm  or  raiirhn  has  il:i  own  springs  or  run- 
ning stream  t.iitlicient  for  the  support  of 
stock,  which  hitherto  has  made  tiiodlluf  ob- 
ject of  industry  in  ('alil'ornia. 

'I'lie  soil  is  generally  gi'>il,  of  a  sandy  or 
light  character,  easily  ciilti\ated,  and  in  many 
piares  of  extraordinary  I'ertilitj.  ('iiltivation 
has  iiKvays  been  by  irrigation,  and  tho  soil 
seems  to  roriuire  only  water  to  prmluco 
viporoiislv.  Among  the  arid  brnsh-covcrod 
hills  south  of  Han  Diego  we  found  little  val- 
leys  converted  by  a  i^ingle  spring  into  crowded 
gardens,  where  [wars,  penches.(iuinco8,pomo- 
gmnotes,  grapes,  olives,  nnd  other  fruits 
grow  luxuriantly  toirether,  the  little  stream 
ncting  upon  them  like  n  principio  of  life. 
Tho  Houtnorn  frontier  of  this  portion  of  Cali- 
fornia seems  eminently  ndnpled  to  the  culti- 
vation of  the  vino  and  the  olive.  A  single 
vino  has  been  known  to  yield  a  barrel  of 
wino ;  and  tho  olivo  trees  uro  burdened  with 
the  weight  of  fruit. 

During  tho  month  of  Auffual  tho  days  are 
bright  und  hot,  tho  sky  piiro  and  entirely 
cloudless,  and  tho  nights  cool  and  beauti- 
fidly  serene,  in  this  month  fruits  generally 
ripen — melons,  jxiars,  peaches,  prickly  fig, 
{rartiin  tiifla,)  Sic. — and  largo  Diinchcs  of 
ripe  grapes  are  scattered  luimorously  through 
tlie  vineyards,  but  do  not  roach  matunty 
until  the  following  itionlh.  After  the  vin- 
tage, grapes  nre  hung  up  in  the  houses  and 
so  kept  for  use  throughout  the  winter. 

Tho  mornings  in  Septeml>cr  nre  cool  and 
generally  delightful — we  sometimes  found 
tiiem  almo.st  cold  onongii  to  freeze — the  mid- 
day hours  bright  nnd  hot,  but  a  breeze  usually 
made  tho  shndo  ploasnnt ;  the  evenings  calm, 
nnd  nights  cool  nnd  clour  ,vhen  unobsciired 
by  fogs.  Wo  reached  the  southern  country 
at  tho  end  of  July  ;  and  tl;o  first  clouds  we 
saw  appcari^d  on  the  6th  Scplemher  nt  sunset, 
grndunlly  fi[)rcading  over  tho  sky,  and  the 
morning  was  cloudy,  but  clear  again  before 
noon.  Lightning  at  this  time  was  visible  in 
the  direction  of  Hoiuira,  whore  tho  rainy 
season  bad  already  commenced,  and  tlie 
cloudy  weather  was  perhaps  indicative  of 
its  approiich  here.  On  some  nights  the 
dews  wore  remarked  to  be  heavy ;  and  as  we 
were  journeying  along  the  const  between 
San  Diego  and  Santa  Barbara,  fogs  occa- 
sior^ally  obscured  tho  sunset  over  the  ocean, 
and  rose  ne.xt  morning  with  the  sun.  On  the 
wooded  plain,  nt  the  foot  of  tho  San  Gabriel 
niounliii.i,  iu  tlto  neighborhood  of  Sauta  Bar 


I 


iiniti  lii^'li— »oino  |«'i»kii 
iiou — mill  iill'inl  c'(i|iii)in< 
I  nil  llic  yi'iir.     Mmiy  of 

llh^iirlririi;  till"  li^llt  •^•li' 
IN  lii'ld'i'  •'  ;'y  nmcli  tfF 
■clfil,  '  ■  .viitiT  (if  thctc 
to  «jpt('  1  iiltivHtiiin  ov.;r 
ifflidiil  liii'  coutilry  every 
itM  (pwii  cpriii^fs  or  run- 
iciit  tiir  till"  Hii|i|M)rt  of 
to  li;ii  iiiiiilo  tliucliiuf  ot>- 
Citliroriiiu. 

I'rully  yi'nl,  of  n  MPilyor 
ily  ciiltiMitiHt,  and  in  niiiny 
mry  fertility.  Ciiltivntion 
>y  irrl^iition,  and  tlio  »oil 
only  wiit.T  to  produce 
i;»  tlio  iiriil  briiHli-cnvorod 
Pieffo  we  found  littlo  vnl- 
i-in^le  s[irinj;  into  crowded 
■H,  peii(',heM,(iiiincoB,  porno- 
olivcH,  mid  other  frui'j 
(iifi'tlier,  tlie  littlo  Btrenm 

I  like  a  prinriplo  of  lifft. 
ierof  tliij*  portion  of  Cali- 
■ntly  adapted  to  the  culti- 

and  tlio  olive.  A  single 
)wn  to  yield  n  barrel  of 
0  trec^  uro  burdened  with 

til  of  Aiif^unt  tlio  dnys  are 
10  Mky  pure  and  entirely 
niiflit.s  cool  and  beauti- 
lii.s  iiiontli  fruitfl  generally 
larH,  peaclio.",  prickly  fig, 
.. — ami  larj^o  bunches  of 
ttered  numtroncly  througli 
t  do  not  roach  maturity 
r  month.  After  the  vin- 
iinr;  up  in  the  houRCit  and 
•oii'jhout  the  winter. 

II  t^epteinljcr  are  cool  ond 
111 — wc  Homotimes  found 
noiijjii  to  freeze — the  mid- 
id  hot,  but  a  breeze  usually 
iasnnt ;  the  ovoninffs  calm, 
id  clear  ,vhen  unobscured 
i;hed  the  nouthern  connt.'y 

;  and  ll'.o  first  clouds  wc 
ic  6th  Scj)/emtier  at  sunset, 
ig  over  the  sky,  and  the 
iy,  but  clear  again  before 
at  this  tiino  was  visible  in 
Sonera,  whore  the  rainy 
idy  eoiiiiiienced,  and  tlie 
van  jierhaps  indicative  of 
e,  On  some  nights  the 
ed  to  lie  heavy ;  and  as  wo 
along  tho  coast  betveen 
^aiita  Barbara,  fogs  occa- 
tho  sunset  over  the  ocean, 
ling  with  the  sun.  On  the 
he  foot  of  the  San  Gabriel 
leighborhood  of  tSauta  B:ir 


UPON  riTKR  CAMKORNI.V. 


bar,!,  and  frr(|ueiilly  alonn  the  way,  iImi 
tti-en  were  found  to  ln'  (xirlly  rovereil  with 

iiii>i>«, 

i^.imnlrt)  Iwluri'n  Ihf  Sunln  Unrhnrn  nimin- 
tiiin  find  Mi»i/n-(-i,  {hil.  ,\\^  :it)'  l„  ;»»*•  MO'.)— 

Mniiif  the  middle  of  S'lilrinlirrwo  i'ii('aiii|it'(l 
:,ear  the  Kiiiniiiit  of  ttie  Cnrnlinlr  Stinlii  liirs, 
(Santa  IturUira  iiiuinitaiii,)  on  a  litlle  creek 
with  cold  witer,  giMid  Irenli  gne-M,  and  inlicli 
liiiiUtr;  and  llifiirel'nrwaril  north  along  the 
iiiwiintnin  iN'hiiid  the  Smiln  liu:i  iiiir^Mjon,  the 
country  aHHinned  a  better  ap|N>ariitie(>,  gener- 
ally well  w(N)di><l  and  tolerably  well  covered 
with  gnicH  of  giHHl  (|iiality — v^ry  dilli'rent 
from  tho  dry,  naked  and  |)arrhed  iip|H<aranen 
of  tho  country  1h>1ow  Saiitn  llar'mra.  Tho 
noighlxiring  inounlain  exhibiteil  large  tiiiilier, 
ledwofxl  or  pine,  prolmbly  the  lattt'r.  Water 
was  friMjuent  in  Hiiiall  running  streams. 
CrrwHing  tho  fertile  valley  of  San  Luif 
OliinjH),  (lat.  .Ifl",)  a  (sheltered  valley  noted 
for  the  suix'riority  of  itn  olives,  wo  entered 
the  Sanlit  Lucia  range,  which  lies  lictwoon 
the  coast  ami  tho  SulinaH,  or  Hiifiiacenlura 
rivor  (of  the  lav  of  Monterey.)  Wo  found 
this  a  beaiitifni  moiintiiin,  covered  thickly 
■with  wild  oats,  prettily  wooded,  and  having 
on  the  side  we  ascenderl  (which  is  the  wator- 
ahcJ)  in  every  little  hollow  a  running  stream 
of  cool  water,  which  the  weather  made  do- 
ligiitfiil.  Tho  days  wore  hot,  at  evening 
cool,  and  tho  morning  weather  clear  and  ex- 
hilarating. Dosconding  into  tho  valley,  wo 
found  it  open  and  handsome,  making  a  pleas- 
ing country  well  woo<lod,  and  every  where 
cvered  with  grass  of  a  good  quality.  The 
coast  rango  is  wooded  on  both  sides  and  to 
the  summit  with  varieties  of  oaks  and  pines. 
The  upper  part  of  tlio  Salinas  valley,  where 
we  are  now  travelling,  would  aifora  excel- 
lent stork  lis,  and  is  particularly  well 
suited  U<  >\u'.i  .  The  country  never  becomes 
miry  in  the  rainy  seat  on,  and  none  are  lost 
by  cold  in  the  mild  winter. 

The  good  rango,  grass  and  acorns,  in,v!o 
game  fnindant,  and  door  and  grisly  boar 
wore  uunerous.  Twelve  "f  the  latter  were 
killei   by  the  party  in  one  thicket. 

1 .  >wcr  down,  in  the  neighborhood  of  San 
Mi^'iicl,  the  country  chang^  its  appearance, 
liising  its  timbered  and  grassy  character,  and 
.-iiiowing  much  sand.  Tho  past  year  had 
been  one  l'  unusual  drought,  and  the  river 
Itnd  ahno-i^t  entirely  disappeared,  leaving  a 
bare  sandy  bed  with  a  few  pools  of  water. 
About  titloen  miles  below  San  Miguel  it  en- 
ters a  gorge  of  the  hills,  making  brtmd  thickly 
wooded  bottoms,  and  aiTording  a  good  rango 
and  abundance  of  water,  the  ucd lieing  shel- 
tered by  tlic  thick  timber.  Tho  lower  hills 
and  spurs  from  the  ranges,  bordering  the 
river,  are  vory  dry  and  Imre,  affording  littlo 
cr  no  gruKH.  Approucliing  the  mission  of 
SukJud    the   river  valley   widens,   making 


fertile  butfciins  and  p'ninx  of  nnilile  land, 
Home  lifti'i'iito  fwentv  liiile'i  liroiiit.exleniling 
to  Monterev  Imiv,  ami  Ixirdered  by  niiiges  of 
liKiiintiiin  iViiiii  two  to  three  lliniiHaiid  feet 
high.  These  ranges  have  the  (•liMriiclcr  of 
fertile  iiionntaliiH,  their  IiIIIk  U>iiig  covered 
with  gniMs  and  Hcalfered  treen,  anil  their  val- 
ley pni<liu'ing  lieldn  of  wild  oatH,  and  wninled 
with  oak  groves.  Being  iin."lieltered  by 
wiHiil".  water  is  not  abnmlant  in  the  dry  sea- 
Hon,  lint  at  the  end  of  Si'ptenilier  we  found 
HpringH  among  the  hills,  and  water  reiixiined 
in  the  cri-ek  U'ds. 

On  the  evening  of  tho  28th  September, 
cumuli  made  Iheii  upiioaranre  in  the  sky.  and 
the  next  niorning  was  cloudy  with  a  wnrni 
southerly  wind  and  a  few  drops  of  rain — 
the  lirst  of  t.lm  rainy  weascm.  The  weather 
then  continued  iininterrupte<lly  dry  through 
all  Octolwr — fair  and  bright  during  tho  lirst 
part,  but  cloudy  during  the  latter  half.  At 
tho  end  of  the  month  tlio  rainy  season  set  in 
fully,  consisting  generally  of  rain  sipialls 
with  bright  weather  intervening,  and  occa- 
sional southeasterly  storms  continuing  seve- 
ral days.  Tho  previoun  seasons  had  boon 
very  short  and  light  for  several  years,  and  the 
country  iiad  sunored  from  the  consequent 
drought.  Tho  present  season  commenced 
early,  and  was  very  fiivorablo.  Much  rain 
fell  in  the  low  country,  and  snow  accumu- 
latod  to  a  great  depth  in  the  high  mountains. 
The  first  rains  changed  the  face  of  the 
country.  Grass  inimwliately  began  f.o  shoot 
up  rapidly,  and  by  tho  end  of  tlie  first  week 
ot  ffoveml/er  the  dead  hue  of  the  hills  around 
Monterey  had  already  given  place  to  green. 

A  brief  sketch  of  the  weather  during  a 
journey  in  this  year  from  the  mission  of  San 
Juan  Baplittit  (latitude  37°)  to  /«»  Atu^eles 
will  exhibit  the  ordinary  character  of  the 
season. 

In  tlie  valley  of  San  Juan,  during  Uie  lat- 
ter half  of  Nvvemlisr,  there  was  no  rain ;  tho 
weather,  generally,  pleasant  and  bright,  with 
occasional  clouds.  Tho  night  clear  and 
cool,  occasionally  cold ;  tha  morrings  clear 
and  sharp,  with  hoar  frost  sometimes  cover- 
ing tho  ground.  The  days  were  warm  and 
pleasant,  and  tho  evenings  mild  and  calm. 
On  some  mornings  a  thick  fog  settled  down 
immediately  alter  sunrise,  but  in  a  few  hours 
cleared  ofT  into  a  pleasant  day. 

The  falling  weather  recommenced  on  tho 
30th,  with  a  stormy  day  of  spring ;  blue  sky 
in  spots,  rapidly  succeeded  by  uiuHscsofdurK 
clouds  and  pouring  rain,  which  fell  heavily 
during  greater  part  of  tho  night. 

The  morning  of  the  Ist  Dccevtiier  was 
partially  clear,  but  rain  recommenced  in  a 
few  hours,  with  sky  entirely  clouded.  The 
weather  brightenen  at  noon,  and  from  a 
high  point  of  the  liills  bordering  the  St.  Juan 
river  valley,  up  which  wo  were  travelling, 


98 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR 


snow  was  visible  on  siiiniiiits  of  tho  iliviilinpf 
ranjfe  bcUvccn  tlic>  Wiiii  Joaquin  valley  ami 
the  coast,  it  ruined  heavily  and  incos.santly 
during  the  night,  and  continued  all  the  next 
day.  In  tho  night  the  ^ky  cleared  olV  liri|fht 
witii  II  north  wind,  hut  clouded  up  at  niorn- 
Ing,  Willi  rain  and  a  broken  nky.  There 
were  showers  of  rain  during  the  day,  with 
intervals  of  bright  and  hot  sun  ;  and  the  sky 
at  sunset  was  without  a  cloud. 

During  the  day  and  niglit  of  the  'Ith,  tliero 
were  occasional  showers.  Tho  sky  was 
tolerably  clear  on  tho  morning  of  the  5th, 
with  a  prospect  of  fair  weather.  Tho  tents 
were  frozen,  and  snow  apiwared  on  the  near 
ridges.  We  were  then  in  a  small  interior 
valley  of  the  mountains,  bordering  the  Sali- 
nas river,  imd.  about  1,000  i'eot  above  tlio 
sea. 

December  the  6th  was  a  beautiful  day,  fol- 
lowed by  a  cold  frosty  night. 

The  next  day  we  descended  to  tlie  valley 
of  the  Salinas  river,  the  weather  continuing  | 
clear  and  pleasant  during  the  day.  Snow  I 
appeared  on  the  mountains  on  both  sides  of  I 
llie  valley,  and  a  cloud  from  some  of  them  i 
gave  a  slight  shower  during  the  night.  Se- 1 
veral  successive  days  were  clear,  with  hot  \ 
Bun ;  the  nigiits  cold,  starry,  and  frosty.  The  | 
new  grass  on  the  hills  was  coming  out  vigo- 
rously. The  morning  of  the  10th  was  keen  ; 
and  clear,  witli  scattered  clouds,  and  a  south-  { 
erly  wind,  which  brought  up  showers  of  rain  j 
at  night,  followed  by  fog  in  the  morning.        j 

On  the  12th,  at  the  mission  of  Santa  Mar-  \ 
garita,  in  the  head  of  the  Salinas  valley,  rain 
began  in  tlie  afternoon,  with  a  cold  wind,  and 
soon  increased  to  a  southeasterly  storm,  with 
heavy  rain  during  all  tlie  night.  The  13th 
was  cloudy,  with  occasional  lowers.  Dur- 
ing tlie  night  the  weather  l^ecame  very  bad, 
and  by  morning  had  increased  to  a  violent 
and  cold  southeasterly  rain  storm.  In  the 
aflernoon  the  storm  subsided,  and  was  fol- 
lowed by  several  days  of  variable  weather. 

By  the  19th,  the  country  where  wo  were 
travelling  between  San  Luis  Obispo  and  the 
Cuesta  of  Santa  Ives,  showed  a  handsome 
covering  of  grass,  which  required  two  weeks 
more  to  become  excellent.  There  were 
several  days  of  warm  weather,  with  occa- 
sional showers  and  hot  sun,  and  cattle  began 
to  seek  the  shade. 

The  23d  was  a  day  of  hard  rain,  followed 
by  tine  weather  on  the  24th,  and  a  cold 
southeasterly  rain  storm  on  the  25th. 

During  the  remainder  of  the  year,  the 
weather  continued  fair  and  cool. 

No  rain  fell  during  the  first  half  of  Janu- 
av\j,  which  we  passed  between  Santa  Bar-  ; 
barn  and  Los  Angeles :  tlie  days  were  bright  i 
aiul  very  jileasant,  with  warm  sun  ;  and  the  | 
niijtits,  generally,  cold.  In  the  neftlected  | 
orchards  of  the  San  Buenaventura  and  Fer-  i 


nando  missioris,  the  olive  trees  rorri.iined 
loaded  with  the  abundiint  fruit,  which  C'';i- 
tiiiued  in  perrectlv  gooil  condition. 

Ai)out  tho  11th,  a  day  of  rain  succcoeru 
by  an  interval  of  tine  woather,  again  inter- 
rupted by  a  rainy,  disagreeabUi  southeaster 
on  the  2'3d.  During  the  reniainder  of  the 
month  tho  days  wero  bri;L;i''t.  and  pleasant— 
almost  of  suniinor — sun  and  clouds  varyin;r; 
the  nights  clear,  i)ut  soinotinics  a  little  co!J  •, 
and  much  snow  showing  on  the  mounta:-. 
overlooking  the  plains  of  San  (iabriel. 

In  the  lir-it  part  of  Fehruart/,  at  Los  Ar.- 
geks,  there  were  some  foggy  and  misty 
mornings,  with  showers  of  rain  at  intervals 
of  a  week.  The  weather  then  remained  for 
several  weeks  tminterruptedly  and  beauti- 
fully serene,  tho  sky  remarkably  pure,  tlie 
air  soft  and  grateful,  and  it  was  difficult  to 
imagine  any  climate  more  delightful.  In 
the  meantime  the  processes  of  ve(iettition 
went  on. with  singular  rapidity,  and,  by  thf 
end  of  the  month,  tho  face  of  tlie  count  ry 
was  beautiful  with  the  great  abundance  of 
pasture,  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
geranium,  (eroilium  cir.ularium,)  so  es- 
teemed as  food  for  cattle  and  horses,  and"oJl 
grazing  animals,  'I'hc  orange  trees  were 
crowded  with  flowers  and  fruit  in  various 
sizes,  and  along  the  foot  of  tlie  mountain, 
bordering  the  San  Gabriel  plain,  fields  of 
orange-colored  flowers  were  visible  at  the 
distance  of  fifteen  miles  from  Los  Angeles. 

In  the  midst  of  the  bright  weatiicr  there 
was  occasionally  a  cold  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing of  March  9,  new  snow  appeai'ed  on  the 
San  Gabriel  mountain,  and  there  was  frost 
in  tlie  plain  below;  but  these  occasionally 
cold  nights  seemed  to  liave  no  influence  on 
vegetation. 

On  the  23d  and  27th  of  March  there  were 
some  continued  and  heavy  showers  of  rain, 
about  the  last  of  the  season  in  the  southern 
country.  In  the  latter  part  of  April  fogs 
Ijegan  to  be  very  frequent,  rising  at  midnignt 
and  continuing  until  9  or  10  of  the  follow- 
ing morning.  Aoout  the  beginning  of  May 
the  mornings  were  regularly  loggy  until  near 
noon ;  the  remainder  of  the  day  sunny,  fre- 
quently accompanied  with  high  wind. 

The  climate  of  maritime  California  ia 
greatly  modified  by  the  structure  of  tlio 
country,  and  under  this  aspect  may  be  con- 
sidered in  three  divisions — the  southern,  be- 
low Point  Conception  and  the  Santa  Barbara 
mountain,  about  latitude  35° ;  the  northern, 
from  Cape  Mendocino,  latitude  41^,  to  tho 
Oregon  boundary ;  and  the  miMle,  including 
the  Iray  and  basin  of  San  Francisco  and  the 
coast  between  Point  Conception  and  Cape 
Mendocino.  (Jf  these  three  divisions  the 
rainy  season  is  longest  and  heavii>st  in  tlie 
north  and  lightest  in  the  south.  V>2i'tution 
is  governed  accordingly— coming  with  die 


the  oIi\e    trees   rom/iined 
ibundiiiit  fruit,  whicli  cr".i- 
r  good  condition. 
I,  u  da)'  of  rain  Hucccoctti 

fine  wciitlier,  ;\piin  inlor- 
,',  disagrceabli!  wmtheuattr 
ring  tlie  rouiainder  of  the 
vero  brif;i;l  ond  pleasant— 
— sun  uiid  clouds  varyin;r; 
)ut  sotnetiinos  a  little  co'.J  ; 
s<ho\vinii  on  the  mountai.'i 
lains  of  San  (iabriel. 
rt  of  Fchrnari/,  at  Los  Ar.- 
i  some  foggy  and  misty 
howers  of  niin  at  intervals 
weather  then  remained  for 
ninterruptedly  and  boaiiti- 

sky  remarkably  pure,  tlie 
eful,  and  it  was  difficult  to 
nate  more  delightful.  In 
le  processes  of  vct;otation 
iigular  rapidity,  and,  by  iiv: 
h,  the  face  of  tlie  coun!  ry 
;h  the  great  abundance  of 
ivith  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
'turn  cir.ularium,)  so  es- 
)r  cattle  and  horses,  and  "oil 
The  orange  trees  were 
)wers  and  fruit  in  varioug 
the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
in  Gabriel  plain,  fields  of 
owers  were  visible  at  the 
I  miles  from  Los  Angelea. 
if  the  bright  wealiier  there 
a  cold  night.  In  the  mora- 
lew  snow  appear'ed  on  the 
ntain,  and  there  was  frost 
)w;  but  these  occasionally 
led  to  liave  no  influence  on 

i  27th  of  March  there  were 
and  heavy  showers  of  rain, 
the  season  in  the  southern 
I  latter  part  of  April  fogs 
frequent,  rising  at  midnight 
until  9  or  10  of  the  foUow- 
oout  the  beginning  of  May 
•e  regularly  loggy  until  near 
ider  of  the  day  sunny,  frc- 
nied  with  high  wind, 
of   maritime  California    ia 

by  the  structure  of  the 
ler  this  aspect  may  be  con- 
divisions — the  southern,  bo- 
i)tion  and  the  Santa  Barbara 
latitude  36° ;  the  norlliern, 
locino,  latitude  41^,  to  the 
' ;  and  the  middle,  including 
1  of  San  Francisco  and  the 
'oint  Conception  and  Cape 

these  three  divisions  the 
ingest  and  heaviest  in  the 
t  in  the  south.  Veji'tution 
ordingly — coming  with  the 


UPON  UPP1:R  CALIFORNIA. 


29 


rain»— decay' n<»  where  tluy  fail.  Summer 
and  winter,  in  oui-  sense  of  the  terms,  are 
not  applicable  to  tlii.s  part  of  the  country.  It 
is  not  heat  and  cold,  but  wet  and  dry,  which 
mark  the  seasons ;  and  the  winter  months, 
instead  of  killing  vegetation,  revive  it.  The 
diy  season  malics  a  period  of  consecutive 
drought,  the  only  winter  in  the  vegetation  of 
this  country,  which  can  hardly  be  said  at  any 
time  to  cease.  In  forests,  where  the  soil  i.s 
sheltered ;  in  low  lands  of  streams  and  hilly 
country,  where  the  ground  remains  moist, 
grass  continues  constantly  green  and  flowers 
bloom  in  all  the  months  of  the  year.  In  the 
southern  half  of  the  country  the  long  sum- 
mer drought  has  rendered  irrigation  neces- 
sary, and  the  experience  of  the  missions,  in 
their  prosperous  day,  has  shown  that,  in 
California,  as  elsewhere,  the  dryest  plains 
are  made  productive,  and  the  heaviest  crops 
produced  by  that  mode  of  cultivation.  With 
irrigation  a  succession  of  crops  may  be  pro- 
duced throughout  the  year.  Salubrity  and  a 
regulated  mildness  characterize  the  climate ; 
there  being  no  prevailing  diseases,  and  the 
extremes  of  heat  during  the  summer  being 
checked  by  sea  breezea  during  the  day,  and 
by  light  aiw  from  the  Sierra  Nevada  auring 
the  night.  The  nights  are  generally  cool 
and  refreshing,  as  is  the  si  ado  during  the 
hottest  day. 


California,  below  the  Sierra  Nevadj,  is 
about  the  extent  of  Italy,  geogrupliically  ccjjv- 
sidcred  in  all  the  extent  of  Italy  from  th« 
Alps  to  the  termination  of  the  pcninsuin.  It 
is  of  the  same  length,  about  the  same  bro?.dlh, 
consequently  the  same  area  (about  ona  hun- 
dred thousand  square  miles),  and  prcaonts 
much  similarity  of  climate  and  prijuuctions. 
Like  Italy,  it  lies  north  and  south,  and  pre- 
sents some  differences  of  climate  and  pro- 
ductions, the  effect  of  difference  of  latitude, 
proximity  of  high  mountains,  and  configura- 
tion of  the  coast.  Like  Italy,  it  is  a  country 
of  mountains  and  valleys :  different  from  if 
in  its  internal  structure,  it  is  formed  for 
unity ;  its  largo  rivers  being  concentric,  and 
if^  large  valleys  appurtenant  to  the  great  cen- 
tral bay  of  San  Francisco,  within  the  area 
of  whose  waters  the  dominating  power  maai 
be  found. 

Geographically,  the  position  of  this  Cali- 
fornia is  one  of  the  best  in  the  world  ;  lying 
on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  fronting  Asia,  on 
the  line  of  an  American  road  to  Asia,  and 
possessed  of  advantages  to  |];iv3  full  effect  to 
its  grand  geographical  posi'don. 

All  which  is  respectfully  cuvmitted ; 

J.  CHARLES  iHFJItONT. 

Washiiigton,  June,  1848. 


■IP'^Kfl 


f 


'•} 


^^f . 


A  REPORT 


AN  EXPLORATION  OP  THE  COUNTRY 


ITIH*  aBTWIH  TBI 

MISSOURI   RIVER   AND   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTmS, 


oa  n»  Lwi  or 


THE   KANSAS   AND   GREAT   PLATTE   RIVERS. 


Washihoton,  March  1,  1843. 
To  Colonel  J.  J.  Abert, 

Chief  of  ths  Corpi  of  Top.  Eng: 

Su :  Agreeably  to  your  orders  to  explore 
and  report  upon  the  country  between  the 
frontiers  of  Missouri  and  the  South  Pass  in 
the  Rocky  mountains,  and  on  the  line  of  the 
Kansas  and  Great  Platte  rivers,  I  set  out 
from  Washington  city  on  the  2d  day  of  May, 
1842,  and  arrived  at  St.  Louis,  by  way  of 
New  York,  the  22d  of  May,  where  the  ne- 
cessary preparations  were  completed,  and  the 
expedition  commenced.  I  proceeded  in  a 
steamlmt  to  Chouteau's  landing,  about  four 
hundred  miles  by  water  from  St.  Louis,  and 
Bear  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  river,  whence 
we  proceeded  twelve  miles  to  Mr.  Cyprian 
Chouteau's  trading  house,  where  we  com- 
pleted our  final  arrangements  for  the  expedi- 
tion. 

Bad  weather,  which  interfered  with  astro- 
nomical observations,  delayed  us  severe! 
days  in  the  early  part  of  June  at  this  post, 
which  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Kansas 
river,  about  ten  miles  above  the  mouth,  and 
six  beyond  the  western  boundary  of  Missouri. 
The  sky  cleared  off  at  length,  and  we  were 
enabled  to  determine  our  positit  .  in  longi- 
tude 94o  26^  46",  and  latitude  '.t)°  6'  61". 
The  elevation  above  the  sea  is  about  700 
feet.  Our  camp,  in  the  viiesntime,  presented 
an  animated  and  bustling  scone.  All  were 
basily  occupied  in  completing  the  necessary 
arrangements  for  our  campaign  in  the  wil- 
derness, and  profiting  by  tliis  short  delay  on 
the  verge  of  civilisation,  to  provids  ourselves 
with  allthe  little  essentials  to  comfort  b the 
nomadic  life  we  were  to  lead  for  the  ensuing 
summer  months.  Gradually,  however,  every- 
thing—4he  materiel  of  the  camp,  men, 
horses,  and  even  mules — settled  into  its 
place,  and  by  the  10th  we  were  ready  to  de- 


part ;  but,  before  we  mount  our  horses,  I  will 
give  a  short  description  of  the  party  with 
which  I  performed  this  service. 

I  had  collected  in  the  neighborhood  of  St. 
Louis  twenty-one  men,  principally  Creole  and 
Canadian  voyageurs,  who  had  become  fami- 
liar with  prairie  life  in  the  service  of  the  fur 
companies  in  the  Indian  country.  Mr. 
Charles  Preuss,  a  native  of  Germany,  was 
my  assistant  in  the  topographical  part  of  the 
survey.  L.  Maxwell,  of  Kaskaskia,  had 
been  engaged  as  hunter,  and  Christopher 
Carson  (more  familiarly  known,  for  his  ex- 
ploits in  the  mountains,  as  Kit  Carson)  was 
our  guide.  The  persons  engaged  in  St. 
Louis  were : 

Clement  Lambert,  J.  B.  L'Esperance,  J. 
B.  LefSvre,  Benjamin  Potra,  Louis  Gouin, 
J.  B.  Dum^s,  Basil  Lajeunesse,  Franfois 
Tessier,  Benjamin  Cadotte,  Joseph  CUment, 
Daniel  Simonds,  Leonard  Benoit,  Michel 
Morly,  Baptiste  Bemier,  Honore  Ayot,  Fran- 
fois  Latulippe,  Fran9oi8  Badeau,  Louis  M^ 
nard,  Joseph  Ruelle,  Moise  Chardonnais, 
Auguste  Janisse,  Raphael  Proue. 

In  addition  to  these,  Henry  Brant,  son  of 
Col.  J.  B.  Brant,  of  St.  Louis,  a  young  man 
of  nineteen  years  of  age,  and  Randolph,  a 
lively  boy  of  twelve,  son  of  the  Hon.  Thomas 
H.  Benton,  accompanied  me,  for  the  develop- 
ment of  mind  and  body  which  such  an  expe- 
dition would  give.  We  were  all  well  armed 
and  mounted,  with  the  exception  of  eight 
men,  who  conducted  as  many  carts,  in  which 
were  packed  our  stores,  with  the  baggage 
and  instruments,  and  which  were  each  drawn 
by  two  mules.  A  few  loose  horses,  and  four 
oxen,  which  had  been  added  to  our  stock  of 
provisions,  completed  the  train.  We  set  out 
on  the  morning  of  the  10th,  which  happened 
to  be  Friday — a  circumstance  which  our  men 
did  not  fail  to  remember  and  recall  duiiag 


^■■%: 


^r«*?S-#T»^**'3Nfts}5'~"tyl^'t. 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1843. 


the  hardships  and  vexations  of  the  ensuing 
journey.  Mr.  Cyprian  Chouteau,  to  whose 
kindness,  during  our  stay  at  his  house,  we 
were  much  indebted,  accompanied  us  several 
miles  on  our  way,  until  we  met  an  Indian, 
whom  he  had  engaged  to  conduct  us  on  the 
first  thirty  or  forty  miles,  where  he  was  to 
consign  us  to  the  ocean  of  prairie,  which,  we 
were  told,  stretched  without  interruption  al- 
most to  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 

From  the  belt  of  wood  which  borders  the 
Kansas,  in  which  we  had  passed  several 
good-looking  Indian  farms,  we  suddenly 
emerged  on  the  prairies,  which  received  us 
at  the  outset  with  some  of  their  striking  cha- 
racteristics ;  for  here  and  there  rode  an  In- 
dian, and  but  a  few  miles  distant  heavy  clouds 
of  smoke  were  rolling  before  the  nre.  In 
about  ten  miles  we  reached  the  Santa  Fe 
road,  along  which  we  continued  for  a  short 
time,  and  encamped  early  on  a  small  stream ; 
having  travelled  about  eleven  miles.  Dur- 
ing our  journey,  it  was  the  customary  prac- 
tice to  encamp  an  hour  or  two  before  sunset, 
when  the  carts  were  disposed  so  as  to  form 
a  sort  of  barricade  around  a  circle  some 
eighty  yards  in  diameter.    The  tents  were 

fiitched,  and  the  horses  hobbled  and  turned 
oose  to  graze;  and  but  a  few  minutes 
elapsed  before  the  cooks  of  the  messes,  of 
which  there  were  four,  were  busily  engaged 
in  preparing  the  evening  meal.  At  night- 
fall, the  horses,  mules,  and  oxen,  were  driven 
in  and  picketed — that  is,  secured  by  in  halter, 
of  which  one  end  was  tied  to  a  small  steel- 
shod  picket,  and  driven  into  the  ground ;  the 
halter  being  twenty  or  thirty  feet  long,  which 
enabled  them  to  obtain  a  little  food  during 
the  night.  When  we  had  reached  a  part  of 
the  country  where  such  a  precaution  became 
necessary,  the  carts  being  regularly  arranged 
for  defending  the  camp,  guard  was  mounted 
at  eight  o'clock,  consisting  of  three  men, 
who  were  relieved  every  two  hours ;  the 
morning  watch  being  horse  guard  for  the  day. 
At  davbreak,  the  camp  was  roused,  the  ani- 
mals turned  loose  to  graze,  and  breakfast 
generally  over  between  six  and  seven  o'clock, 
when  we  resumed  our  march,  making  regu- 
larly a  halt  at  noon  for  one  or  two  houre. 
Such  was  usually  the  ordnr  of  the  day,  ex- 
cept when  accident  of  country  forced  a  varia- 
tion ;  which,  however,  happened  but  rarely. 
We  travelled  the  next  day  along  the  Santa 
F*  road,  which  we  leit  in  the  afternoon,  and 
encamped  late  in  the  evening  on  a  small 
creek,  called  by  the  Indians  Mishmagwi. 
Just  as  we  arrived  at  camp,  one  of  the  horses 
set  off  at  full  speed  on  his  return,  and  was 
followed  by  othere.  Several  men  were  sent 
in  pnrauit,  and  returned  with  the  fugitives 
about  midnight,  witii  the  exception  of  one 
man,  who  did  not  make  his  appearance  until 
morning.    He  had  lost  his  way  in  the  dark- 


ness of  the  night,  and  slept  on  the  prairie. 
Shortly  after  midnight  it  began  to  rem  hea- 
vily, and,  as  our  tents  were  of  light  and  thin 
cloth,  they  offered  but  little  obstruction  to 
rain ;  we  were  all  well  soaked,  and  glad  when 
morning  came.  We  had  a  rainy  march  on 
the  12th,  but  the  weather  grew  fine  as  the 
day  advanced.  We  encamped  in  a  remarka- 
bly beautiful  situation  on  the  Kansas  bluffi, 
which  commanded  a  fine  view  of  the  river 
valley,  here  from  three  to  four  miles  wide. 
The  central  portion  was  occupied  by  a  broad 
belt  of  heavy  timber,  and  nearer  the  hills  the 
prairies  were  of  the  richest  verdure.  One 
of  the  oxen  waf>  killed  here  for  food. 

We  reached  the  ford  of  the  Kansas  late 
in  the  afternoon  of  the  14th,  where  the  river 
was  two  hundred  and  thirty  yards  wide,  and 
commenced  immediately  preparations  for 
crossing.  I  had  expected  to  hnd  the  river 
fordable :  but  it  had  been  swollen  by  the  late 
rains,  and  was  sweeping  by  with  an  angry 
current,  yellow  and  lurbld  as  .ne  Missouri. 
Up  to  this  point,  the  road  we  had  travelled 
was  a  remarkably  fine  one,  well  beaten,  and 
level — the  usual  road  of  a  prairie  country. 
By  our  route,  the  ford  was  one  hundred 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  river. 
Several  mounted  men  led  the  way  into  the 
stream,  to  swim  across.  The  animals  were 
driven  in  after  them,  and  in  a  few  minntea 
all  had  reached  the  opposite  bank  in  safety, 
with  the  exception  of  the  oxen,  which  swam 
some  distance  down  the  river,  and.  returning 
to  the  right  bank,  were  not  got  over  vntii 
the  next  morning.  In  the  meantime,  tlie 
carts  had  been  unloaded  and  dismantled,  and 
an  India-rubber  boat,  which  I  had  brought 
with  me  for  the  survey  of  the  Platte  river, 
placed  in  the  water.  The  boat  was  twenty 
feet  long  and  five  broad,  and  on  it  were 
placed  the  body  and  wheels  of  a  cart,  with 
the  load  belonging  to  it,  and  three  men  with 
paddles. 

The  velocity  of  the  current,  and  the  incon- 
venient freight,  rendering  it  diiRcult  to  be 
managed,  Basil  Lajeunesse,  one  of  our  best 
swimmers,  took  in  his  teeth  a  line  attached 
to  the  boat,  and  swam  ahead  in  order  to 
reach  a  footing  as  soon  as  possihie,  and  as- 
sist in  drawing  her  over.  In  this  manner, 
six  passages  had  been  successfully  made, 
and  as  many  carts  with  their  contents,  and 
a  greater  portion  of  the  party,  deposited  on 
the  left  bank ;  but  night  was  drawing  near, 
and,  in  our  anxiety  to  have  all  over  before 
the  darkness  closed  in,  I  put  upon  the  boat 
the  remaining  two  carts,  with  their  accom- 
panying load.  The  man  at  the  helm  was 
timid  on  water,  and,  in  his  alarm,  capsized 
the  boat.  Carts,  barrels,  boxes,  and  bales, 
were  in  a  moment  floating  down  the  current ; 
but  all  the  men  who  were  on  the  shore 
jumoed  into  the  water,  without  stopping  to 


a 
irpe 


[1843. 

nd  slept  on  the  prairie. 
ht  it  began  to  rain  hea- 
ts were  of  light  and  thin 
)ut  little  obstruction  to 
)11  soaked,  and  glad  when 
e  had  a  rainy  march  on 
?ather  grew  fine  as  the 
encamped  in  aremarka- 
on  on  the  Kansas  blufb, 

fine  view  of  the  river 
to  four  miles  wide, 
was  occupied  by  a  broad 
,  and  nearer  the  hills  the 

richest  verdure.  One 
led  here  for  food, 
ford  of  the  Kansas  late 
ihp  14th,  where  the  river 
id  thirty  yards  wide,  and 
liately  preparations  for 
pected  to  find  the  river 
been  swollen  by  the  late 
iping  by  with  an  angry 
]  turbid  as  Jie  Missouri. 
J  road  we  had  travelled 
Ine  one,  well  beaten,  and 
id  of  a  prairie  country. 

ford  was  one  hundred 
th  of  th«  Kansas  river, 
en  led  tlie  way  into  the 
ross.  The  animals  were 
I,  and  in  a  few  minntea 
)  opposite  bank  in  safety, 
of  the  oxen,  which  swam 
1  the  river,  and.  returning 
were  not  got  over  rntfl 

In  the  meantime,  the 
laded  and  dismantled,  and 
it,  which  I  had  brought 
■vey  of  the  Platte  river, 
.  The  boat  was  twenty 
broad,  and  on  it  were 
1  wheels  of  a  cart,  with 
to  it,  and  three  men  with 

he  current,  and  the  incon- 
idering  it  difficult  to  be 
jeunesse,  one  of  our  best 
bis  teeth  a  line  attached 
warn  ahead  in  order  to 
soon  as  possible,  and  as- 
'  over.  In  this  manner, 
been  snccessfully  made, 
with  their  contents,  and 
'  the  party,  deposited  on 
night  was  drawing  near, 
to  have  all  over  before 
I  in,  I  put  upon  the  boat 
carts,  with  their  accom- 
e  man  at  the  helm  was 
i,  in  his  alarm,  capsized 
)arre]s,  boxes,  and  bales, 
iloating  down  the  current ; 
who  were  on  the  shore 
iter,  without  stopping  to 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


think  if  they  could  swim,  and  almost  evory- 
lliinff — even  heavy  articles,  such  as  guns 
ind  Icail— was  recovered. 

Two  of  the  men,  who  could  not  swim, 
came  nigli  being  drowned,  and  all  the  sugar 
belonging  to  one  of  the  maeses  wasted  its 
sweets  on  the  muddy  waters ;  but  our  hea- 
viest loss  was  a  bag  of  coffee,  which  con- 
tained nearly  all  our  provision.  It  was  a 
loss  whicli  none  but  a  traveller  in  a  strange 
and  inhospitable  country  can  appreciate ;  and 
often  afterward,  when  ccessive  toil  and  long 
marching  had  overcome  us  with  fatigue  and 
weariness,  we  remembered  and  mourned 
over  our  lo^s  in  tho  Kansas.  Carson  and 
Maxwell  had  been  much  in  the  water  yes- 
u^rday,  and  both,  in  consequence,  were  taken 
ill.  The  former  continuing  so,  I  remained 
in  camp.  A  number  of  Kansas  Indians 
visited  us  to-day.    Going  up  to  one  i .  the 

fo\!p8  who  were  scattered  among  the  tree^, 
found  one  sitting  on  the  ground,  among 
some  of  the  men,  gravely  and  fluently  speak- 
ing French,  with  as  much  facility  and  as 
little  embarrassment  as  anv  of  my  own 
party,  who  were  nearly  all  of  French  origin. 

On  all  sides  was  heard  the  strange  lan- 
guage of  his  own  people,  wild,  and  harmon- 
izing well  with  their  appearance.  I  listened 
to  him  for  some  time  with  feelings  of  strange 
curiosity  and  interest  He  was  now  appa- 
rently thirty-five  years  of  age ;  and,  on  in- 
quiry, I  learned  that  he  hsul  been  at  St.  Louis 
when  a  boy,  and  there  had  learned  the 
French  language.  From  one  of  the  Indian 
women  I  obtained  a  fine  cow  and  calf  in  ex- 
change for  a  yoke  of  oxen.  Several  of  them 
brought  us  vegetables,  pumpkins,  onions, 
beans,  and  lettuce.  One  of  them  brought 
butter,  and  from  a  half-breed  near  the  river 
I  had  the  good  fortune  to  obtain  some  twenty 
or  thirty  pouoflr  of  cofibe.  The  dense  tim- 
ber in  which  we  had  encamped  interfered 
with  astronomical  ob8er\'ation8,  and  our  wet 
and  damaged  stores  required  exposure  to  the 
sun.  Accordingly,  the  tents  were  struck  early 
the  next  morning,  and,  leaving  camp  at  six 
o'clock,  we  moved  about  seven  miles  up  the 
river,  to  a  handsome,  open  prairie,  some 
twenty  feet  above  the  water,  where  the  fine 
graas  afibrded  a  luxurious  repast  to  our 
horses. 

Daring  the  day  we  occupied  ourselves  in 
making  astronomical  observations,  in  order 
to  lay  down  the  country  to  this  place ;  it 
being  our  custom  to  keep  up  our  map  regu- 
larlv  in  the  field,  which  we  found  attended 
with  man^  advantages.  The  men  were 
kept  busy  in  drying  Uie  provisions,  painting 
tlie  cart  covers,  and  otherwise  completing 
our  equipage,  until  the  afternoon,  when  pow- 
der was  distributed  to  them,  and  they  spent 
soma  hours  in  firing  at  a  mark.  We  were 
now  MAf  in  the  Indian  country,  and  it  be- 


gan to  be  time  to  prepare  for  the  chances  of 
the  wilderness. 

Friday,  June  17. — ^The  weather  yesterday 
had  not  permitted  us  to  make  the'  observa- 
tions I  was  desirous  to  obtain  here,  and  I 
therefore  did  not  move  to-day.  The  (leople 
continued  their  target  firing.  In  the  steep 
bank  of  the  river  here,  were  nests  of  innu- 
merable swallows,  into  one  of  which  a  larec 
prairie  snake  had  got  about  half  his  body, 
and  was  occupied  in  eating  the  young  birds. 
The  old  ones  were  flying  about  in  great  dis- 
tress, darting  at  him,  and  vainly  endeavoring 
to  drive  him  ofi*.  A  shot  wounded  him,  and, 
being  killed,  he  was  cut  open,  and  eighteen 
young  swallows  were  found  in  his  body.  A 
sudden  storm,  that  burst  upon  us  in  the  af- 
ternoon, cleared  away  in  a  brilliant  sunset, 
followed  by  a  clear  night,  which  enabled  us 
to  determine  our  position  in  longitude  95o 
38-  06",  and  in  latitude  39°  06'  40" 

A  partv  of  emigrants  to  the  Columbia 
river,  under  the  charge  of  Dr.  White,  an 
agent  of  the  Government  in  Oregon  Terri- 
tory, were  about  three  weeks  in  advance  of 
us.  They  consist^  of  men,  women,  and 
children.  There  (vera  sixty-four  men,  and 
sixteen  or  seventeen  families.  They  had  a 
considerable  number  of  cattle,  and  were 
transporting  their  household  furniture  in 
large  heavy  wagons.  I  understood  that  there 
had  been  much  sickness  among  them,  and 
that  they  had  lost  oeveral  children.  One  of 
the  party  who  had  lost  his  child,  and  whose 
wife  was  very  ill,  had  left  them  about  one 
hundred  miles  hence  on  the  prairies ;  and  as 
a  hunter,  who  had  accompanied  them,  visited 
our  camp  this  evening,  we  availed  ourselves 
of  his  return  to  the  States  to  write  to  our 
friends. 

The  morning  of  the  18th  was  very  unplea- 
sant. A  fine  rain  was  falling,  with  cold 
wind  from  the  north,  and  mists  made  the 
liver  hills  look  dark  and  gloomy.  We  left 
our  camp  at  seven,  journeying  along  the  foot 
of  the  hiils  which  border  the  Kansas  valley, 
generally  about  three  miles  wide,  and  ex- 
tremely rich.  We  halted  for  dinner,  after  a 
march  of  about  thirteen  miles,  on  the  banks 
of  one  of  the  many  little  tributaries  to  the 
Kansas,  which  look  like  trenches  in  the 
prairie,  and  are  usually  well  timbered.  Af- 
ter crossing  this  stream,  I  rode  off  some 
miles  to  the  left,  attracted  by  the  appearance 
of  >  cluster  of  huts  near  the  moutit  of  the 
Vermillion.  It  was  a  large  but  deserted  Kan- 
sas village,  scattered  in  an  open  wood,  along 
the  margin  of  the  stream,  on  a  spot  chosen 
with  the  customary  Indian  fondness  for  beauty 
of  scenery.  The  Pawnees  had  attacked  it 
in  the  early  spring.  Some  of  the  houses 
were  burnt,  and  others  blackened  with 
smoke,  and  weeds  were  already  getting  pos- 
session of  the  cleared  places.    Riding  up 


p^ti^satiisur' 


-«•>' 


/•* 


:  ■,  • 


;>5J 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


11841 


the  Vermillion  river,  I  reached  th<j  ford  in 
time  to  meet  tlio  carts,  and,  croesinc^,  en- 
camped on  ita  vestern  liJe.  Tlie  weather 
eontmued  cool,  the  thermometer  being  this 
evening  as  low  u  49" ;  but  the  night  was 
nufliciently  clea '  ibr  astronomical  observa- 
tions, which  placed  us  in  longitude  96°  04' 
07 ",  and  latitude  39°  16'  19^  At  sunset, 
the  barometer  was  at  28.845,  thermometer 
64°. 

We  breakrasted  the  next  morning  at  half 
past  five,  and  left  our  encampment  early. 
The  morning  was  cool,  the  thermometer 
being  at  45".  Quitting  the  river  bottom, 
the  road  ran  along  the  uplands,  over  a  roll- 
ing country,  generally  in  view  of  the  Kan- 
sas from  eight  to  twelve  miles  distant. 
Many  large  ooulders,  of  a  very  compact 
sandstone,  of  various  shades  of  red,  some  of 
them  four  or  five  tons  in  weight,  were  scat- 
tered along  the  hills;  and  many  beautiful 
plants  in  flower,  among  which  the  amorpha 
cancscens  was  a  characteristic,  enlivened  the 
green  of  the  prairie.  At  the  heads  of  the 
ravines  I  remarked,  occasionally,  thickets 
of  salix  Inngifolia,  the  yiost  common  willow 
of  the  country.  We  travelled  nineteen 
miles,  and  pitched  our  tents  at  evening  on 
the  head  waters  of  a  small  creek,  now  nearly 
dry,  but  having  in  its  bed  several  fine  springs. 
The  barometer  indicated  a  considerable  rise 
in  the  country — here  about  fourteen  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea — and  the  increased  eleva- 
tion appeared  already  to  have  some  slight 
influence  upon  the  vegetation.  The  night 
was  cold,  with  a  heavy  dew ;  the  thermome- 
ter at  10  p.  m.  standing  at  46°,  barometer 
38.483.  Our  position  was  in  longitude  96° 
14'  49",  and  latitude  39°  30'  40". 

The  morning  of  the  20th  was  fine,  with  a 
southerly  breeze  and  a  bright  sky ;  and  at 
■even  o'clock  we  were  on  the  march.  The 
country  to-day  was  rather  more  broken,  ris- 
ing still,  and  covered  everywhere  with  frag- 
ments of  siliceous  limestone,  particularly  im 
Jie  summits,  where  they  were  small,  and 
thickly  strewed  as  pebbles  on  the  shore  of 
the  sea.  In  these  exposed  situations  grew 
but  few  plants ;  though,  whenever  the  soil 
was  good  and  protected  from  the  winds,  in 
the  creek  bottoms  and  ravines,  and  on  the 
elopes,  they  flourished  abundantly;  among 
them  the  amorpha,  still  retaining  its  charac- 
teristic place.  We  crossed  at  10  a.  m.,  the 
Big  Vermillion,  which  has  a  rich  bottom  of 
rbout  one  mile  in  breadth,  one-third  of  which 
is  occupied  by  timber.  Making  our  usual 
halt  at  noon,  after  a  day's  march  of  twenty- 
four  miles,  we  reached  the  Big  Blue,  and 
encamped  on  the  uplands  of  the  western 
side,  near  a  small  creek,  where  was  a  fine 
large  spring  of  very  cold  water.  This  is  a 
clear  and  handsome  stream,  about  one  hun- 
dred aad  twenty  feet  wide,  running,  with  a 


rapid  current,  through  a  well-timbered  val 
ley.  To-day  antelope  were  seen  running 
over  the  hills,  and  at  evening  Carson  brought 
us  a  fine  deer.  Longitude  of  the  camp  ^^ 
32-  36",  latitude  39"  46'  08."  Thermome. 
ter  at  sunset  76".  A  pleasant  southerly 
breeze  and  fine  morning  nad  given  place  to 
a  gale,  with  indications  of  l>ad  weather ; 
when,  after  a  march  of  ten  miles,  we  halted 
to  noon  on  a  small  creek,  where  the  water 
stood  in  deep  pools.  In  the  banK  of  the 
creek  limestone  made  its  appearance  in  a 
stratum  about  one  foot  thick.  In  the  afler 
noon,  tlie  people  seemed  to  suffer  for  want 
of  water.  The  road  led  along  a  high  dry 
ridge ;  dark  lines  of  timber  Indicated  the 
heads  of  streams  in  the  plains  below ;  but 
there  was  no  water  near,  and  the  day  was 
very  oppress,  .e,  with  a  hot  wind,  and  the 
thermometer  t  90".  Along  our  route  the 
amorpha  has  been  in  very  abundant  but  va- 
riable  bloom — in  some  places  bending  be- 
neath the  weight  of  purple  clusters ;  in  oth- 
ers without  a  flower.  It  seems  to  love  best 
the  sunny  slopes,  with  a  dark  soil  and  south- 
em  exposure.  Everywhere  the  rose  is  met 
with,  and  reminds  us  of  cultivated  gardens 
and  civilisation.  It  is  scattered  over  the 
prairies  in  small  bouquets,  and,  when  glitter- 
ing in  the  dews  and  waving  in  the  pleasant 
breeze  of  the  early  morning,  is  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  prairie  flowers.  The  arte- 
misia,  absinthe,  or  prairie  sage,  as  it  is  va- 
riously called,  is  increasing  in  size,  and  glit- 
ters like  silver,  as  the  southern  breeze  turns 
up  its  leaves  to  the  sun.  All  these  plants 
have  their  insect  inhabitante,  variously  color- 
ed ;  taking  generally  the  hue  of  the  flower 
on  which  they  live.  The  artemisia  has  ita 
small  fly  accompanying  it  through  every 
change  of  elevation  and  latitude ;  and  wher- 
ever I  have  seen  the  asckpias  tuberosa,  I 
have  always  remarked,  too,  on  the  flower  a 
large  butterfly,  so  nearly  resembling  it  in 
color  as  to  be  distinguishable  at  a  little  dis- 
tance only  by  the  motion  of  ite  wings.  Tra- 
velling on,  the  fresh  traces  of  the  Oregon 
emigrante  relieve  a  little  the  loneliness  of 
the  road;  and  to-night,  ailer  a  march  of 
twenty-two  miles,  we  halted  on  a  small 
creek,  which  had  been  one  of  their  encamp- 
ments. As  we  advance  westward,  the  soil 
appears  to  be  getting  more  sandy,  and  the 
surface  rock,  an  erratic  deposite  of  sand  and 
gravel,  rests  here  on  a  bed  of  coarse  yellow 
and  grey  and  very  friable  sandstone.  Even- 
ing closed  over  with  rain  and  its  usual  at- 
tendant hordes  of  musquitoes,  with  which 
we  were  annoyed  for  the  first  time. 

June  23. — We  enjoyed  at  breakfast  this 
morning  a  luxury,  very  unusual  in  this 
country,  in  a  cup  of  excellent  coflee,  with 
cream  from  our  cow.  Being  milked  at 
night,  cream  was  thus  had  in  the  morning. 


mm 


mtm 


wm 


mm^' 


m?^kmsi^^-. 


1184a 

ugh  a  well-timbered  val 
ope  were  seen  running 
t  evening  Carson  brought 
ingitude  of  the  camp  96" 
9»  46'  08."  Thermome- 
.  A  pleasant  southerly 
rning  nad  given  place  to 
cations  of  oad  weather; 
h  of  ten  miles,  we  halted 
I  creek,  where  the  water 
)lfl.  In  the  banK  of  the 
lade  its  appearance  in  a 

foot  thick.  In  the  after 
jemed  to  suffer  for  want 
ad  led  along  a  high  dry 

of  timber  indicated  the 
in  the  plains  below ;  but 
T  near,  and  the  day  was 
rith  a  hot  wind,  and  the 
".    Alone  our  route  the 

in  very  abundant  but  va- 
some  places  bending  be- 
)f  purple  clusters ;  in  oth* 
>r.  It  seems  to  love  best 
irith  a  dark  soil  and  south- 
erywhere  the  rose  in  met 

us  of  cultivated  garde"! 
It  is  scattered  over  the 
)uquet«,  and,  when  glitter- 
id  waving  in  the  pleasant 
ly  morning,  is  the  most 
rairie  flowers.    The  arle- 

prairie  sage,  as  it  is  va- 
icrcasing  in  size,  and  glit- 
the  southern  breeze  turns 
le  sun.  All  these  plants 
ihabitants,  variously  color- 
lly  the  hue  of  the  flower 
e.  The  artemisia  has  its 
anying  it  through  every 
n  and  latitude ;  and  wheN 

the  asckpias  tuberosa,  I 
irked,  too,  on  the  flower  a 

>  nearly  resembling  it  in 
inguishable  at  a  little  dis- 
notion  of  its  wings.  Tra- 
!sh  traces  of  the  Oregon 

a  little  the  loneliness  of 
hnigbt,  after  a  march  of 
I,  we  halted  on  a  small 
been  one  of  their  encamp- 
(Ivance  westward,  the  soil 
Lting  more  sandy,  and  the 
irratic  deposite  of  sand  and 
on  a  bed  of  coarse  yellow 
t  friable  sandstone.  Even- 
rith  rain  and  its  usual  at- 
if  musquitoes,  with  which 

for  the  first  time. 

enjoyed  at  breakfast  this 
ry,  very  unusual   in  this 

>  of  excellent  coffee,  with 
cow.  Being  milked  at 
thus  had  in  the  morning. 


S:^ :--_,.T-:^?(tegt_-'.  i--z'-:, 


r-:'^?r.- 


!Ma.] 


'/APT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


Our  m'd-day  halt  was  at  Wyeth's  creek,  in 
the  bed  of  which  were  numerous  boulders 
of  dark  ferruginous  sandstone,  mingled  with 
others  of  the  n  d  sandgtono  already  men- 
tioned. Here  a  pack  of  cards,  lyin;;  loose 
on  the  grass,  ma  rked  an  encampment  of  our 
Oregon  emigrar  U ;  and  it  was  at  the  close 
of  the  day  when  wo  made  our  bivouac  in  the 
midst  of  some  well-timbered  ravines  near  the 
Little  Blue,  twenty-four  miles  from  our 
carnp  of  the  preceding  night.  Crossing  the- 
next  morning  a  num^r  of  handsome  creeks, 
with  clear  water  and  sandy  beds,  we  reac  hed, 
at  Id  a.  m.,  a  very  beautiful  wooded  8tn>am, 
about  thirty-tive  feet  wide,  called  Saidy 
creek,  and  sometimes,  as  the  Ottoes  fre- 
quently winter  there,  the  Otto  fork.  The 
country  has  become  very  sandy,  and  the 
plants  less  varied  and  abundant,  with  the 
exception  of  the  amorpha,  which  rivals  the 
crass  in  quantity,  though  not  so  forward  as 
It  has  been  foimd  to  the  eastward. 

At  the  Big  Trees,  where  we  had  intended 
to  noon,  no  water  was  to  be  found.  The  bed 
of  the  little  creek  was  perfectly  dry,  and,  on 
the  adjacent  sandy  bottom,  cacti,  for  the  first 
time,  made  their  appearance.  We  made 
here  n  short  delay  in  search  of  water ;  and, 
after  a  hard  day's  march  of  twenty-eight 
miles,  encamped,  at  6  o'clock,  on  the  Little 
Blue,  where  our  arrival  made  a  scene  of  the 
Arabian  desert.  As  fast  as  tliey  arrived,  men 
and  horses  >ushed  into  the  stream,  where 
they  bathed  and  drank  together  in  common 
enjoyment.  We  were  now  in  the  range  of 
the  Pawnees,  who  were  accustomed  to  infest 
this  part  of  the  country,  stealing  horses  from 
companies  on  their  way  to  the  mountains, 
aud,  when  in  sufficient  force,  openly  attack- 
ing and  plundering  them,  and  subjecting 
khem  to  various  kmds  of  insult.  For  the 
Hrst  time,  therefore,  guard  was  mounted  to- 
night. Oar  route  the  next  morning  lay  up 
the  valley,  which,  bordered  by  hills  with 
graceful  slopes,  looked  uncommonly  green 
and  beautiful.  The  stream  was  about  fifty 
feet  wide,  and  three  or  four  deep,  fringed  by 
cotton  wood  and  willow,  with  frequent  groves 
of  oak  tenanted  by  flocks  of  turkeys.  Game 
here,  'too,  made  its  appearance  in  greater 
plenty.  Elk  were  frequently  seen  on  the 
bills,  and  now  and  then  an  antelope  bounded 
across  our  path,  or  a  deer  broke  from  the 
groves.  The  road  in  the  afternoon  was  over 
the  upper  prairies,  several  miles  from  the 
river,  and  we  encamped  at  sunset  on  one  of 
its  small  tributaries,  where  an  abundance  of 
prele  (equisetum)  aflbrded  fine  forage  to  our 
tired  animals.  We  had  travelled  thirty-one 
miles. '  A  heavy  bank  of  black  clouds  in  the 
west  came  on  us  in  a  storm  between  nine 
and  ten,  preceded  by  a  violent  wind.  The 
rain  fell  in  such  torrents  that  it  was  difficult 
to  breathe  facing  the  wind,  the  thunder  rolled 


incessantly,  and  the  whole  skv  was  tremu- 
lous  with  ligiitning ;  now  anci  then  illumin- 
ated by  a  b'inding  flash,  succeeded  by  pitchy 
darkness.  Carson  had  the  watch  from  ten 
to  midnight,  and  tn  him  had  been  assigned 
our  young  compa,  nons  de  voyage,  Messrs. 
Brant  andR.  Ben  en.  This  was  their  first 
night  on  guard,  ar  J  such  an  introduction  did 
not  augur  very  auspiciously  of  the  pleasures 
of  the  expedition.  Many  things  conspired  to 
render  their  situation  uncomfortable ;  stories 
of  desperate  and  bloody  Indian  fights  wer? 
rife  in  the  camp;  our  position  was  badly 
chosen,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  timbered 
hollows,  and  occupying  an  area  of  several 
hundred  feet,  e.o  that  necessarily  the  guards 
were  far  apart ;  and  now  and  then  I  could 
hear  Randolph,  as  if  relieved  by  tlie  sound 
of  a  voice  in  the  darkness,  calling  out  to  the 
sergeant  ui'the  guard,  to  direct  his  attention 
to  sone  imaginary  alarm;  but  they  stood  it 
out,  and  took  their  turn  regularly  after- 
wart'. 

The  n"xt  morning  we  had  a  specimen  of 
the  false  alarms  to  which  all  parties  in  these 
wild  regions  are  subject.  Proceeding  up 
the  valley,  objects  were  seen  on  the  oppo- 
site hills,  which  disappeu.'ed  before  a  glass 
could  be  brought  to  bear  upon  them.  A 
man,  who  was  a  short  distance  in  the  rear, 
came  spurring  up  in  great  haste,  shouting 
Indians !  Indianb !  He  had  been  near 
enough  to  see  and  count  them,  according  to 
his  report,  and  had  made  out  twenty-seven. 
I  immediately  halted ;  arms  were  examined 
and  put  in  order;  the  usual  preparations 
made ;  and  Kit  Carson,  springing  upon  one 
^f  the  hunting  horses,  crossed  the  river,  and 
galloped  off  into  the  opposite  prairies,  to  ob- 
tain some  certain  intelligence  of  their  move- 
ments. 

Mounted  on  a  fine  horse,  without  a  saddle, 
and  scouring  bareheaded  over  the  prairies. 
Kit  was  one  of  the  finest  pictures  of  a  horse- 
man I  have  ever  seen.  A  short  time  ena- 
bled him  to  discover  that  the  Indian  war 
party  of  twenty-seven,  consisted  of  six  elk, 
who  had  been  gazing  curiously  at  our  cara- 
van as  it  passed  by,  and  were  now  scamper- 
ing off  at  full  speed.  This  was  our  first 
alarm,  and  its  excitement  broke  agreeably 
on  the  monotony  of  the  day.  At  our  noon 
halt,  the  men  were  exercised  at  a  target ; 
and  in  the  evening  we  pitched  our  tents  at  a 
Pawnee  encampment  of  last  July.  They 
had  apparently  killed  buf!aIo  here,  as  many 
bones  were  lying  about,  and  the  frames 
where  the  hides  had  been  stretched  were  yet 
standing.  The  road  of  the  day  had  kept 
the  valley,  which  is  sometimes  rich  and  well 
timbered,  though  the  country  is  generally 
sandy.  Mingled  with  the  usual  plants,  a 
thistle  (carduus  leuc6graphus)  had  for  the 
la.«t  day  or  two  made  its  appearance    «M 


l^\ 


1fg/tW^'--*if^nmsmm'^mmim^^a^mm^s^h,^mm^& 


^T^_.  V,4u;»,»£ir-'i*Sii*«(i'  t'^^C^A'-Si^-^lrVt'  i^^-^ii^J  ti'^i 


-;».«j  .  ■-»!  • 


\»/  t 


u 


10 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1849. 


along  fho  river  botlotn,  tradesc.anlin  (virgini' 
ea)  and  milk  pi  mt  {asclepias  syriaca*)  in 
considerable  quantitiufi. 

Our  miircli  to-day  had  been  twenty-one 
milef),  and  the  astronomical  observationfi 
gave  us  a  chronometric  lonpitndoof  98°  22' 
13",  and  latitude  40°  26'  60".  We  were 
moving  forward  at  seven  in  the  morrng.and 
in  about  five  miles  reached  a  fork  of  the 
jL.uo,  where  the  road  leaves  that  river,  and 
crosses  over  to  the  PL-iUe.  No  water  was  to 
bo  found  on  the  dividing  •"idge,  and  the  casks 
were  tilled,  and  the  animals  here  allowed  a 
abort  repose.  The  road  led  across  a  high 
and  level  prairie  ridge,  where  were  but  few 
nlants,  and  those  principally  thistle  (cnrduus 
leuc6graphus),  and  a  kind  of  dwarf  artcmi- 
sia.  Antelope  were  seen  frequently  during 
the  morning,  which  was  very  stormy. 
Squalls  of  ram,  with  thunder  and  lightning, 
were  around  us  in  every  direction ;  and 
while  we  were  enveloped  m  one  of  them,  a 
flash,  which  seemed  to  scorch  our  eyes  as  it 
passed,  struck  in  the  prairie  within  a  few 
hundred  feet,  sending  up  a  column  of  dust. 

Cnwsing  on  the  way  several  Pawnee 
roads  to  the  Arkansas,  we  reached,  in  about 
twenty-one  miles  from  our  halt  on  the  Blue, 
what  IS  called  the  coast  of  the  Nebraska,  or 
Platte  river.  This  had  seemed  in  the  dis- 
tance a  range  of  high  and  broken  hills ;  but 
on  a  nearer  approach  were  found  to  be  ele- 
vations of  forty  to  sixty  feet,  into  which  the 
wind  had  worked  the  sand.  They  were  co- 
vered with  the  usual  fine  grasses  of  the 
country,  and  bordered  the  eastern  side  of 
tho  ridge  on  a  breadth  of  about  two  miles. 
Change  of  soil  and  country  appeared  hei^ 
to  have  produced  some  change  in  the  vege- 
tation. Cacti  were  numerous,  and  all  the 
plants  of  the  region  appeared  to  flourish 
among  the  warm  hills.  Among  them  the 
amorpha,  in  full  bloom,  was  renr^orkable  for 
its  large  and  lu.vuriant  purple  clusters. 
From  the  foot  of  the  coast,  a  distance  of  two 
miles  across  the  level  bottom  brouffht  us  to 
our  encampment  on  the  shore  of  tne  river, 
about  twenty  miles  below  the  head  of  Grand 
Island,  which  lay  extended  before  us,  cover- 
ed with  dense  and  heavy  woods.  From  the 
mouth  of  the  Kansas,  according  to  our  reck- 
oning, we  had  travelled  three  nundred  and 
twenty-eight  miles ;  and  the  geological  form- 
ation of  the  country  we  had  passed  over 


*  "Thli  pinnt  la  very  odoriferous,  nnd  in  Canada 
charms  the  iravelliir,  egpecinliy  when  |inwiing  Ilirnuiiti 
wondii  in  tiic  i-venlng.  The  French  there  ent  the  tender 
•hoou  in  the  •prinir.  a>  we  do  aii|mrngu8.  The  native! 
roalie  a  lugnr  id'  the  flowers,  gnlherlng  them  In  the 
norning  Wi..Kn  thi-y  are  covered  witli  dew,  nnd  collect 
the  cotton  (rtmi  their  pods  to  Ali  t)f«ir  beds.  On  iiccouiil 
of  the  siikinetw  of  this  cotton,  Parkinson  callH  the  plant 
Virginian  nilk."— /^ih(<»r'«  Kncyrlvpadia  of  PtanU. 

The  Siiiiix  Indluns  <>!'  the  IJ|i|ier  I'l.-itte  ent  tiie  yonng 

di  or  this  plant,  boiling  them  with  the  ment  of  the 
Bilo.  -—    » 


consisted  of  limo  nnd  sandstone,  covered  by 
the  same  erratic  dcposite  of  sand  and  gravel 
which  formx  the  siirlace  rock  of  tlie  prairiei 
between  the  Missouri  and  MisHis^ippi  rivers. 
Except  in  some  occasional  linicstone  bould- 
ers, I  had  met  with  no  fossils.  The  eleva- 
tion of  tho  Platte  valley  above  the  sea  ir 
here  alwut  two  thousanil  feet.  Tho  astro- 
numical  observations  of  the  nii'ht  placed  ua 
in  longitude  98*'  45'  49",  latitude  40o  41' 
06". 

June  27. — The  animals  wore  somewhat 
fatigued  by  their  march  of  yesterday,  ond, 
after  a  short  journey  of  eighteen  miles  alone 
the  river  bottom,  I  encamped  near  the  beau 
of  Grand  Island,  in  longitude,  by  observa- 
tion, 99°  05'  24",  latitude  40"  39'  32". 
The  soil  here  was  light  but  rich,  though  in 
some  places  rather  sandy ;  and,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  scattered  fringe  along  the  bank, 
the  timber,  consisting  principally  of  poplar 
(populus  monilijera),  elm,  and  hackberry 
(celtis  crassifulia),  is  confined  almost  entirely 
to  the  islands. 

June  28. — We  halted  to  noon  at  an  open 
reach  of  the  river,  which  occupies  rather 
more  than  a  fourth  of  the  valley,  here  only 
about  four  miles  broad.  The  camp  had  b^cn 
disposed  with  the  usual  precaution,  the 
horses  grazing  Hit  a  little  distance,  attendeil 
by  the  guard,  and  we  were  all  sitting  quietly 
at  our  dinner  on  the  grass,  when  suddenly 
we  heard  the  stiirtling  cry  "  du  monde .'"  In 
an  instant,  every  man'H  weapon  was  in  his 
hand,  the  horses  were  driven  in,  hobbled  anii 
picketed,  and  horsemen  were  galloping  at 
full  speed  in  the  direction  of  the  new  comers, 
screaming  and  yelling  with  the  wildest  ex- 
citement. "  Get  ready,  my  lads !  "  said  tlu 
leader  of  the  approaching  party  to  his  men 
when  our  wild-looking  horsemen  were  dis 
covered  bearing  down  upon  them ;  '  vout 
allons  altraper  des  coups  de  bagiieUe."  They 
proved  to  lie  a  small  party  of  fourteen,  under 
the  charge  of  a  man  named  John  Lee,  and, 
with  their  baggage  and  provisions  strappcii 
to  their  backs,  were  making  their  way  on 
foot  to  the  frontier.  A  brief  account  of  their 
fortunes  will  give  some  idea  of  navigation  in 
the  Nebraska.  Sixty  days  since,  they  had 
lell  the  mouth  of  Laramie's  fork,  some  three 
hundred  miles  above,  in  barges  laden  with 
the  furs  of  the  American  Fur  Company. 
They  started  with  the  annual  flood,  and, 
drawing  but  nino  inches  water,  hoped  tii 
make  a  speedy  and  prosperous  voyage  to  St. 
Ix>ui3 ;  but,  after  a  lapse  of  forty  'iays,  foond 
themselves  only  one  hundred  and  thirty 
miles  from  their  point  of  departure.  They 
came  down  rapidly  as  far  as  Scott's  hlutTs, 
where  their  difficulties  began.  Sometimes 
they  came  upon  places  where  the  water  was 
spread  over  a  great  extent,  and  here  they 
toiled  from  morning  until  night,  endeavoring 


'^ 


M'l*  I 


[1849. 

nnd  iandstonn,  covered  by 
Icpoxito  nf  sand  nnd  gnve\ 
iirlaco  rock  of  the  prairiet 
Biiri  nml  Minsinsippi  river*. 
ccaHJonnl  limestone  bould- 
ith  no  fo«8il3.  The  eleva- 
I  valley  above  the  tea  ir 
louBand  fret.  The  antro- 
ons  of  the  nisjlit  placed  iia 
.J6'  49",  hilitude  40o  41' 

B  animals  wore  somewhat 
march  of  yesterday,  and, 
ley  of  eighteen  miles  along 
I  encamped  near  the  head 
in  longitude,  by  observa- 
4',  latitude  40-  39'  33". 
s  light  but  rich,  tliough  in 
it  sandy  ;  and,  with  the  ex- 
ercd  fringe  along  the  bank, 
8tmg  principally  of  poplar 
'era),  elm,  and  hackberry 
,  is  confined  almost  entirely 

;  halted  to  noon  at  an  open 
,'er,  which  occupies  rather 
th  of  the  valley,  here  only 
broad.     The  camp  had  b^cn 
:he   usual    precaution,    the 
t  a  little  distance,  attended 
i  we  were  all  sitting  quietly 
the  grass,  when  suddenly 
rtling  cry  "  du  monde .'"    In 
man'H  weapon  was  in  his 
were  driven  m,  hobbled  and 
jrsemen  were  galloping  at 
direction  of  the  new  comers, 
celling  with  the  wildest  ex- 
ready,  my  lads !  "  said  tlif 
proaching  party  to  his  men 
Doking  horsemen  were  dig 
down  upon  them ;   '  wou/ 
s  coiips  de  baguette."    They 
nail  party  of  fourteen,  under 
man  named  John  Lee,  and, 
.ge  and  provisions  8trap|:«d 
were  making  their  way  on 
jr.     A  brief  account  of  their 
e  some  idea  of  navigation  in 
Sixty  days  since,  they  had 
r  Laramie's  fork,  some  three 
bove,  in  barges  laden  with 
American  Pur  Company, 
rith  the  annual  flood,  and, 
no  inches  water,  hoped  tii 
ind  prosperous  voyage  to  St. 
r  a  lapse  of  forty  'Jays,  found 
one    hundred   and    thirty 
point  of  departure.     They 
idly  as  far  as  Scott's  blunit, 
iculties  began.     Sometimes 
places  where  the  water  whs 
jreat  extent,  and  here  they 
liug  until  night,  endeavorum 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


11 


to  drag  their  boat  through  the  sand.s,  making 
only  two  or  three  miles  in  as  many  days. 
Sometimes  they  would  enter  an  arm  of  the 
river,  where  there  appeared  a  fine  channel, 
and,  after  descendin;,^'  pro.iperously  for  eight 
or  ten  miles,  would  come  suddenly  upon  dry 
sands,  and  tx!  compelled  'eturn,  dragging 
their  boat  for  days  agaij.Dl  the  rapid  current ; 
and  at  others,  they  came  upon  places  where 
the  water  lay  in  holes,  and,  getting  out  to 
float  off  their  boat,  would  fall  into  water  up 
to  their  necks,  and  the  next  moment  tumble 
over  against  a  sandbai  Di8co;'">ged,  at 
length,  and  finding  the  Platte  growing  every 
day  more  shallow,  they  discharged  the  prin- 
cipal part  of  their  cargoes  one  nundred  and 
thirty  miles  below  Fort  Laramie,  which  they 
Kcured  as  well  as  pos.'^ible,  and,  leaving  a 
kw  men  to  guard  them,  attempted  tc  con- 
,inue  their  voyage,  laden  with  some  light 
iurs  and  their  personal  baggage.  After  tif- 
xen  or  twenty  days  more  struggling  in  the 
iands,  during  which  they  made  but  one  hun- 
Ired  and  forty  miles,  they  sunk  their  barges, 
nade  a  cache  of  their  remaining  furs  and 
property,  in  trees  on  the  bank,  and,  packing 
}n  his  back  what  eacii  man  could  carry,  had 
•-oinmenced,  the  day  before  we  encountered 
ihem,  their  journey  on  foot  to  St.  Louis. 

Wo  lauglied  then  at  their  forlorn  and  vag- 
ibond  appearance,  and,  in  our  turn,  a  month 
or  two  Htterwards,  furnished  the  same  occa- 
sion for  merriment  to  others.  Even  their 
itock  of  tobacco,  that  sine  qud  non  of  a  voy- 
igeur,  without  which  the  night  Are  is  gloomy, 
ivas  entirely  exhausted.  However,  we 
ihortened  their  homeward  journey  by  a  small 
supply  from  our  own  provision.  They  gave 
as  the  welcome  intelligence  that  the  butfalo 
were  abundant  some  two  days'  march  in  ad' 
vance,  and  made  us  a  present  of  some  choice 
pieces,  which  were  a  very  acceptable  change 
from  our  salt  pork.  In  the  interchange  of 
news,  and  the  renewal  of  old  acquaintance- 
(hips,  we  found  wherewithal  to  fill  a  busy 
hour;  then  we  mounted  our  horses,  and 
they  shouldered  their  packs,  and  we  shook 
hands  and  parted.  Among  them,  I  had 
found  an  old  companion  on  the  northern 
prairie,  a  hardened  and  hardly  servnd  veteran 
of  the  mountains,  who  had  been  as  much 
hacked  and  scarred  as  an  old  moustache  of 
Napoleon's  "  old  guard."  He  flourished  in 
the  sobriquet  of  La  Tulipe,  and  his  real 
name  I  never  knew.  Finding  that  he  was 
going  to  tlie  States  only  because  his  compa- 
ny was  bound  in  that  direction,  and  that  he 
was  rather  more  willing  to  return  with  me, 
1  took  him  again  into  my  service.  We 
travelled  this  day  but  seventeen  miles. 

At  oar  evening  camp,  about  sunset,  three 
figures  were  discovered  approaching,  which 
our  glasses  made  out  to  be  Indians.  They 
proved  to  bo  Cheyennea — tvt)  men,  and  a 


boy  of  thirteen.  About  a  month  since,  they 
had  left  their  people  on  the  south  fork  of  the 
river,  3oino  throe  hundred  miles  to  the  west- 
ward, and  a  party  of  only  four  in  number 
had  been  to  the  Pawnee  villagPH  on  a  horse- 
stealing excursion,  from  which  they  were 
returning  unsuccessful.  They  wore  miser- 
ably mounted  on  wild  horxes  iVoin  the  Ark* 
ansas  plains,  and  had  no  other  weiiponstlmn 
bows  and  long  sponrK ;  and  had  lliey  been 
discovered  by  the  Pawnees,  could  not,  by 
any  possibility,  have  escaped.  'J'hey  were 
mortitied  by  their  ill  success,  nnd  suid  the 
Pawnees  were  cowards,  who  shut  up  their 
horses  in  their  lodges  at  night.  I  invited 
them  to  supper  with  me,  and  Randolph  and 
the  young  Cheyenne,  who  had  been  eyeing 
each  other  suspiciously  and  curiously,'  soon 
became  intimate  friends.  After  supper,  we 
sat  down  on  the  grass,  and  I  placed  a  sheet 
of  paper  between  us,  on  which  they  traced 
rudely,  but  with  a  certain  degree  of  relative 
truth,  the  watercourses  of  tlie  country  which 
lay  between  us  and  their  villages,  and  of 
which  I  desired  to  have  some  inlnrmation. 
Their  companions,  they  told  us,  li:<  taken  a 
nearer  route  over  the  hills;  but  ilicy  had 
mounted  one  of  the  summits  to  spy  out  the 
country,  whence  they  had  caught  a  glimpse 
of  our  party,  and,  confident  of  good  treat- 
ment at  the  hands  of  the  whiteu,  hastened  to 
join  company.  Latitude  of  the  camp  40' 
39' 61". 

We  made  the  next  morning  sixteen  miles. 
I  remarked  that  the  ground  was  covered  in 
many  places  with  an  cfHorescence  of  salt, 
and  the  plants  were  not  numerous.  In  the 
bottoms  were  frequently  seen  tradescanlia, 
and  on  the  dry  lenchcs  were  rarduus,  cactus, 
and  amorpha,  A  high  wind  during  the 
morning  had  increased  to  a  violent  gale  from 
the  northwest,  which  made  our  afternoon 
ride  cold  and  unpleasant.  We  had  the  wel- 
come sight  of  two  bufi'aloes  on  one  of  the 
large  islands,  and  encamped  at  a  clump  of 
tiniber  about  seven  miles  from  our  noon  halt, 
after  a  day's  march  of  twenty-two  miles. 

The  air  was  keen  the  next  morning  at 
sunrise,  the  thermometer  standing  at  44°, 
and  it  was  sufficiently  cold  to  make  over- 
coats very  comfortable.  A  few  miles  brought 
us  into  the  midst  of  the  bufialo,  swarmmg 
in  immense  numbers  over  the  plains,  where 
they  had  left  scarcely  a  blade  of  grass  stand- 
ing. Mr.  Preuss,  who  was  sketching  at  a 
little  distance  in  the  rear,  had  vt  first  c-jted 
them  as  large  groves  of  timber.  In  the 
sight  of  such  a  mass  of  life,  ti^e  traveller 
feels  a  strange  emotion  of  grandeur.  We 
had  heard  from  a  distance  a  dull  and  con- 
fused murmuring,  and,  when  we  came  in 
view  of  their  dark  masses,  there  was  not  one 
among  us  who  did  not  fe>(  his  heart  beat 
quicker.    It  was  the  early  part  of  the  day, 


L 


■j-,-**-iii=to*^asaat.-.    '«*^  -ffli* 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1849. 


t 


whrii  the  hcrdi  are  fecdinv;  and  every- 
where tliey  were  in  motion.  Flero  and  there 
k  liiifft  old  bull  was  nii!in|f  in  the  grau,  and 
clnuds  or  diidt  ro80  in  the  air  from  various 
partH  of  the  ImndH,  each  the  icene  of  nome 
tibntiiiate  tight.  Indiana  and  bufialo  make 
the  poetry  and  life  of  the  prairie,  and  our 
camp  WBH  full  of  tlicir  exhilaration.  In  place 
of  the  quiet  monotony  of  the  march,  relieved 
only  by  the  cracking  of  the  whip,  and  an 
"avance  done!  enfant  de  garcel"  ahoutfi 
and  sonffR  rcHounded  from  every  part  of  the 
line,  and  our  evening  camp  was  aiwaya  the 
commencement  of  a  feast,  which  terminated 
•<<ly  witli  our  departure  on  the  following 
morning.  At  any  time  of  the  night  might 
be  seen  pieces  of  the  most  delicate  and 
choicest  meat,  roasting  en  appolas,  on  sticks 
around  the  fire,  and  the  guard  were  never 
without  company.  With  pleasant  weather 
and  no  enemy  to  fear,  an  abundance  of  the 
most  excellent  meat,  and  no  scarcity  of 
bread  or  tobacco,  they  were  enjoying  the 
oasis  of  a  voyageur's  life.  Three  cows  were 
killed  to-day.  Kit  Carson  had  she*;  one,  and 
was  continuing  the  chase  in  the  midst  of 
another  herd,  when  his  horse  fell  headlong, 
but  sprang  up  and  joined  the  flying  band. 
Theugh  Loi'siclcrably  hurt,  he  hod  the  good 
fortune  to  break  no  bones;  and  Maxwell, 
who  was  mounted  on  a  fleet  hunter,  cap- 
tured the  runaway  after  a  hard  chase.  He 
was  on  the  point  of  shooting  him,  to  avoid 
the  loss  of  his  bridle,  (a  handsomely  mount- 
ed Spanish  one),  when  he  found  that  his 
horse  was  able  to  come  up  with  him.  Ani- 
mals are  frequently  lost  in  this  way ;  and  it 
is  necessary  to  keep  close  watch  over  them, 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  bufTulo,  in  the  midst  of 
which  they  nicour  ofT  to  the  plains,  and  are 
rarely  retaken.  One  of  our  mules  took  a 
sudden  freak  into  his  head,  and  joined  a 
neighboring  band  to-day.  As  we  were  not 
in  a  condition  to  lose  horses,  I  sent  several 
men  in  pursuit,  and  remained  in  camp,  in 
the  hope  of  recovering  him;  but  lost  the 
afternoon  to  no  purpose,  as  we  did  not  see 
him  again.  Astronomical  observations 
placed  us  in  longitude  lOOo  05'  47",  latitude 
40O  49'  fi6". 

July  1. — Along  our  road  to-day  the  prairie 
bottom  was  more  elevated  and  dry,  and  the 
hills  which  border  the  right  side  of  tlie  rivi 
higher,  and  more  broken  and  picturesque  in 
the  outline.  The  country,  too,  was  better 
timbered.  As  we  were  riding  quietly  along 
the  bank,  a  grand  herd  of  bufiulo,  some  seven 
or  eight  liundred  in  number,  came  crowding 
up  from  tiie  river,  where  they  had  been  to 
drink,  and  commenced  crossing  the  plain 
alowly,  eating  as  they  went.  The  wind  was 
fevorablH ;  the  coolness  of  the  morning  in- 
vited to  exercise ;  the  ground  was  apparently 
good,  aad  the  distance  across  the  prairie  (two 


or  three  miles)  gave  us  a  fine  opportunity  t« 
chartro  them  before  they  could  get  among  the 
river  hills.  It  was  too  lino  a  prospect  tor  i 
chase  to  be  lost ;  and,  halting  Inr  a  few  mo- 
mentii,  the  hunters  were  brouirht  up  and  sad- 
dled, and  Kit  Carson,  Maxwell,  and  I,  started 
together.  They  wore  now  somewhat  leu 
than  half  a  mile  distant,  ami  we  rode  easilj 
alonguntil  within  about  three  hundred  vardi, 
when  a  sudden  agitation,  a  wavering  in  the 
band,  and  a  galloping  to  and  fro  of  lonw 
which  were  scattered  along  the  skirts,  gave 
us  the  intimation  that  we  were  discovered. 
We  started  together  at  a  hand  gallop,  riding 
steadily  abreast  of  each  other,  and  here  the 
interest  of  the  chase  became  so  engro«singl]f 
intense, that  we  were  sensible  to  nouiing  else, 
Wo  were  now  closing  upon  them  rapidly,  and 
the  front  of  the  mass  wan  already  in  rapid 
motion  for  the  hills,  and  in  a  few  seconds  the 
movement  had  communicated  itself  to  tlu> 
whole  herd. 

A  crowd  of  bulls,  as  usual,  brought  up  the 
rear,  and  every  now  and  then  some  of  them 
faced  about,  and  then  dashed  on  after  the 
band  a  short  distance,  and  turned  and  looked 
again,  as  if  more  than  half  inclined  to  stand 
and  fight.  In  a  few  moments,  however,  du- 
ring wnich  we  had  been  quickening  our  pace, 
the  rout  was  universal,  and  we  were  going 
over  the  ground  like  a  hurricane.  When  at 
about  thirty  yards,  we  guvc  the  usual  shont 
(the  hunter's  pas  de  charge),  and  broke  imo 
the  herd.  We  entered  on  the  aide,  tlie  mase 
ffiving  way  in  every  direction  in  their  heed- 
less course.  Miiny  of  the  bulls,  less  active 
and  less  fleet  than  the  cows,  paying  no  at- 
tention to  the  ground,  and  occupied  soleW 
with  the  hunter,  were  precipitated  to  the  earth 
with  great  force,  rolling  over  and  over  with 
the  violence  of  the  shock,  and  hardly  dis- 
tinguishable in  the  dust.  We  separated  on 
entering,  each  singling  out  his  gamo. 

My  horse  was  a  trained  hunter,  famous  in 
the  west  under  the  name  of  Proveau,  and, 
with  his  eyes  flashing,  and  the  foam  flying 
from  his  mouth,  sprang  on  after  the  cow  like 
a  tiger.  In  a  few  moments  he  brought  me 
alongside  of  her, and  rising  in  the  stirrups,! 
fired  at  the  distance-  of  a  yard,  the  ball  ente^ 
ing  at  the  termination  of  the  long  hair,  and 
passing  near  the  heart.  She  ieu  headlong 
*  the  report  of  the  gun,  and,  checking  mj 
iiorse,  I  looked  around  for  my  companiona. 
At  a  little  distance.  Kit  was  on  the  ground, 
engaged  in  tying  his  iiorse  to  the  horns  of 
a  cow  which  he  was  preparing  to  cut  up. 
Among  the  scattered  bands,  at  some  distance 
below,  I  caught  a  glimpse  of  Maxwell ;  and 
while  I  was  looking,  a  light  wreath  of  white 
smoke  curled  away  from  nis  gun,  from  which 
I  was  too  far  to  hear  the  report.  Nearer, 
and  between  me  and  tlie  hills,  towards  which 
they  were  directing  their  course,  WM  thf 


^W^'  ■ 


[184S. 

V  iiR  a  fino  opportunity  to 

tlioy  could  get  nmoiisthc 

I  too  (inn  a  proipcct  for  t 

ml,  haltini;  lor  a  few  niO' 

wpre  broiiuht  up  and  lad- 

:>n,  Maxwell,  nntl  I.itartMl 

vcre  now  lomowhat  lev 

Htiint,  and  we  rode  eatiij 

lK)iit  three  hundred  yards, 

iliition,  a  wavering  in  the 

pini;  to  and  fro  of  loim 

rcii  alon);  the  skirts,  gave 

that  wc  were  diacovered. 

cr  at  a  liand  (gallop,  riding 

cnch  other,  and  hero  the 

JO  Iwcamo  bo  enKroaBinelji 

>rc  eensible  to  notning  elie. 

iii^r  upon  them  rapid^,  and 

nasH  WM  already  in  rapid 

!*,and  in  a  low  Bccondff  the 

mimunicatcd  itself  to  tlio 

H,  as  usual,  brought  up  the 
iw  and  then  some  of  them 
then  daHhcd  on  after  the 
)cc,  and  turned  and  looked 
than  half  inclined  to  stand 
cw  moments,  however,  da> 
I  been  quickening  our  pace, 
■ersal,  and  we  were  going 
ko  a  hurricane.  When  at 
,  we  gnvc  the  usual  shont 
de  charge),  and  broke  im? 
itered  on  the  side,  tlie  mase 
3ry  direction  in  their  heed- 
ny  of  the  bulls,  less  active 
n  the  cows,  paying  no  at> 
'ound,  and  occupied  solelv 
ore  precipitated  to  the  earth 
rolling  over  and  over  with 
he  shock,  and  hardly  dig- 
le  duHt.  Wo  separated  on 
igling  out  his  game, 
a  trained  hunter,  famous  in 
:he  name  of  Proveau,  and, 
shing,  and  the  foam  flying 
prang  on  afler  the  cow  like 
w  moments  he  brought  me 
and  rising  in  the  stirrups,! 
ICC-  of  a  yard,  the  ball  ente^ 
ition  of  the  long  hair,  and 
heart.  She  fefl  headlong 
he  gun,  and,  checking  my 
iround  for  my  companions, 
ce.  Kit  was  on  the  ground, 
I  his  iiorse  to  the  horns  of 
was  preparing  to  cut  up. 
•red  bands,  at  some  distance 
I  glimpse  of  Maxwell ;  and 
ing,  a  light  wreath  of  white 
ly  from  his  gun,  from  which 
hear  the  report.  Nearer, 
and  the  hills,  towards  which 
dug  their  course,  WM  ihi 


18411 


CAPT.  PREMONTS  NARRATIVE. 


IS 


body  of  the  herd,  and,  giving  my  hone  the 
Rin,  we  dashed  aller  them.  A  thick  cloud 
of  dust  hung  upon  their  rear,  which  filled 
my  mouth  and  eyes,  and  nearly  smothered 
me.  In  the  midst  of  this  I  could  see  nothing, 
and  Jie  buflklo  were  not  distinguishable  until 
within  thirty  feet.  They  crowded  together 
more  densely  still  as  I  came  upon  them,  nnd 
rushed  along  in  such  a  compact  body,  that  I 
could  not  obtain  an  entrance — the  horse  al- 
most leaping  upon  them.  In  a  few  moments 
the  mass  divided  to  the  right  and  left,  the 
horns  clattering  with  a  nuise  heard  above 
everything  else,  and  my  horse  darted  into 
the  opening.  Five  or  six  bulls  charged  on 
us  as  we  dashed  along  the  line,  but  were  led 
far  behind  ;  and,  singling  out  a  cow,  I  gave 
her  my  tire,  but  struck  too  high.  She  gave 
a  tremendous  leap,  and  scoured  on  swifter 
than  before.  I  reined  up  my  horse,  and  the 
band  swept  on  like  a  torrent,  and  letl  the 
place  quiet  and  clear.  Our  chase  had  led  us 
into  dangerous  ground.  A  prairie  dog-viU 
.age,  so  thickly  settled  that  there  were  three 
or  four  holes  in  every  twenty  yards  square, 
occupied  the  whole  bottom  for  nearly  two 
miles  in  length.  Looking  around,  I  saw  only 
one  of  the  hunters,  nearly  out  of  sight,  and 
the  long  dark  line  of  our  caravan  crawling 
along,  three  or  four  miles  distant.  After  a 
marcn  of  twenty-four  miles,  we  encamped  at 
tiightfall,  one  mile  and  a  half  above  the  lower 
end  of  Brady's  Island.  The  breadth  of  this 
arm  of  the  river  was  eight  hundred  and 
eighty  vardg,  and  the  water  nowhere  two 
feet  in  depth.  The  island  bears  the  name  of 
a  man  killed  on  this  spot  some  years  ago. 
His  party  had  encamped  here,  three  in  com- 
panjr,  and  one  of  the  number  went  oflf  to  hunt, 
leaving  Brady  and  his  companion  together. 
These  two  had  frequently  quarrelled,  and  on 
the  hunter's  return  he  found  Brady  dead,  and 
was  told  that  he  had  shot  himself  accident- 
ally. He  was  buried  here  on  the  bank ;  but, 
u  usual,  the  wolves  had  torn  him  out,  and 
nme  human  bones  that  were  lying  on  the 
ground  we  supposed  were  his.  Troops  of 
wolves,  that  were  hanging  on  the  skirts  of 
the  buiiblo,  kept  up  an  nninterrupted  howling 
d-.iring  the  nignt,  venturing  almost  into  camp. 
In  the  morning,  they  were  sitting  at  a  short 
distance,  barking,  and  impatiently  waiting 
our  departure,  to  fall  upon  the  bones. 

July  a. — The  momin;  was  cool  and  smoky. 
Our  road  led  closer  to  the  hills,  which  here 
increased  in  elevation,  presenting  an  outline 
of  conical  peaks  three  hundred  to  five  hun- 
dred feet  high.  Some  timber,  apparently 
pine,  gn>ws  in  the  ravines,  ana  streaks 
of  clay  or  sand  whiten  their  slopes.  We 
crossed  during  the  morning  a  numocr  of  hol- 
lows, timbers  principally  with  box  elder 
(oeer  n^unJo),  poplar  and  elm.  Brady's 
taaod  is  well  wooded,  and  all  the  river  along 


which  our  rond  led  to-<lny  may,  in  general, 
bo  called  tolerably  well  tinilx<rt>J.  VVo  [»«•> 
ed  near  an  encampment  of  the  Oregon  emi- 
grants, whore  thoy  uppenre<l  to  have  reposed 
several  days.  A  viiriety  of  houst'liold  arti- 
cles were  scattered  about,  and  they  Imd  pro- 
bably disburdened  tlieinselvcs  hero  of  many 
things  not  absolutely  iiPceHHury.  I  Imd  left 
the  usual  road  before  the  iiijd-tlay  Inilt,  and 
in  the  afternoon,  having  sent  several  men  in 
advance  to  reconnoitre,  marched  directly  for 
the  mouth  of  the  Houth  fork.  Un  our  arri- 
val, the  horsemen  were  senl  in  and  scattered 
about  the  river  to  search  the  best  fording 
places,  and  the  carts  followed  immediately, 
riio  stream  is  here  divided  by  an  island  into 
two  channels.  The  southern  is  four  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  wide,  having  eighteen  or  twenty 
inches  water  in  the  deo|)est  places.  With 
the  exception  of  a  few  dry  bars,  the  bed  of 
the  river  is  generally  quIckHandx,  in  which 
the  carta  began  to  sink  rapidly  so  soon  as 
the  mules  halted,  so  that  it  was  necessary  to 
keep  them  constantly  in  motion. 

The  northern  channel,  two  thousand  two 
hundred  and  fitly  feet  wide,  wai*  somewhat 
deeper,  having  frequently  three  feet  water  in 
tho  numerous  small  channels,  with  a  bed  of 
coarse  gravel.  The  whole  breadth  of  the 
Nebraska,  immediately  below  the  junction,  is 
five  thousand  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 
All  our  equipage  had  reached  the  le/t  bank 
safely  at  6  o'clock,  having  to-day  made  twenty 
miles.  We  encamped  at  the  point  of  land 
immediately  at  the  junction  of  tno  North  and 
South  forks.  Between  the  streams  is  a  low 
rich  prairie,  extending  from  their  confluence 
eighteen  miles  westwardly  to  the  bordering 
hills,  where  it  is  five  and  a  half  miles  wide. 
It  is  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grass, 
and  along  the  banks  is  a  slight  and  scattered 
fringe  of  Cottonwood  and  willow.  In  the 
bufnio  trails  and  wallows,  I  remarked  saline 
efflorescences,  to  which  a  rapid  evaporation 
in  the  great  heat  of  the  sun  probably  contri- 
butes, as  the  soil  is  entirely  unprotected  by 
timber.  In  the  vicinity  of  these  places  there 
was  a  bluish  grass,  which  the  cattle  refuse 
to  eat,  called  by  tho  voyageurs  "  herbe  salie  " 
(salt  grass).  The  latitude  of  the  junction  is 
410  04"  47",  and  longitude,  by  chronometer 
and  lunar  distances,  100°  49'  43".  The  ele- 
vation above  tho  sea  is  about  two  thousand 
seven  hundred  feet.  The  hunters  came  in 
with  a  fat  cow ;  and,  as  we  had  labored  hard, 
we  enjoyed  well  a  supper  of  roasted  ribs  and 
bmidins,  the  chef-d^ceuvre  of  a  prairie  cook. 
Mosquitoes  thronged  about  us  this  evening ; 
but,  by  10  o'clock,  when  the  thermometer  lud 
fallen  to  47°,  they  had  all  disappeared. 

July  3. — As  tiiis  was  to  be  a  point  in  onr 
homeward  journey,  I  made  a  cache  (a  term 
used  in  all  this  country  for  what  is  hidden  ia 
the  ground)  of  a  barrel  of  pork.    It  wu  iflii* 


CAPT,  I'RK.MONTS  NAIUIATIVK 


[1843. 


pomiblft  to  i'onronl  ruoIi  •  proci'rdiiii;  fnmi 
tlin  Hlinr|i  cyco  ol' our  Cli)>yuiiiie  c<iiii|iuiii(>iiN, 
ttitl  I  llitTiMort^  liiltl  tliiMii  til  un  and  koc  wiiiit 
it  isiut  llicy  wcri!  hiiryiiii;.  Tlicy  would  olh- 
erwi.io  Imvc  not  Uili'd  to  rrturii  and  dentroy 
our  cwhr  ill  fxiH'Ctnlioii  iit  Niiino  rich  booty  ; 
but  |Kirk  tlicy  diHJiite,  mid  iiovor  vnt.  \Vo 
1(>II  our  ciiiiip  ut  U,  c(iiitiiiuiii({  up  the  South 
fork,  the  prairio  bottom  atlordingf  u«  a  I'liir 
roud  ;  but  ill  Ihn  Ion;;  ;;riiHK  we  roiiitod  iiiyri- 
ada  of  inoK(iuitiH>H  and  ttioii,  from  whirh  our 
horitca  Bulleri'd  Ruvcroly.  Tho  day  wu« 
■inoky,  with  n  pkmBiiiit  brtTZR  from  tho  south, 
and  tho  plaiiiK  on  tho  opjKtHitu  lido  were  co- 
vered with  bulliilo.  llnviti;;  trnvolled  twenty- 
five  miloK,  wo  ciu'am|)cd  at  U  in  tho  evening ; 
and  tho  men  wore  sent  ncro«n  the  rivor  for 
wood,  lis  tiiern  is  none  here  on  the  left  bunk. 
Our  tires  wore  partially  made  of  the  hois  de 
vuche,  tho  dry  excrement  of  tho  buffiilo, 
which,  like  that  ol  the  camel  in  the  Arabian 
deserU,  furniMhes  to  tho  tnivellura  very  giKxl 
lubstituto  for  wood,  burning;  like  turf. 
Wolves  ill  iifreat  iiumlwrM  surrounded  ua 
during;  the  nif^ht,  crossing;  and  recrossins 
from  tho  opposite  herds  to  our  camp,  and 
howling  and  trotting  about  in  the  river  until 
morning. 

July  4. — The  morning  was  very  smoky, 
tho  sun  shining  dimly  'vnd  red,  as  in  a  thicH 
fog.  The  camp  was  roused  with  a  saluto  at 
daybreak,  and  from  our  scanty  store  a  portion 
of  what  our  Indian  friends  called  the  "  rod 
fire  water"  served  out  to  the  men.  While 
wo  were  at  breakfast,  a  buflklo  calf  broke 
through  the  camp,  followed  by  a  couple  of 
wolves.  In  its  fright,  it  had  probably  mis* 
taken  ua  for  a  band  of  bufTalo.  The  wolves 
were  obliged  to  make  a  circuit  around  the 
camp,  so  that  the  calf  got  a  little  the  start, 
and  strained  evonr  nervo  to  reach  a  large 
herd  at  tho  foot  of  tho  hills,  about  two  miles 
distant ;  but  first  one,  and  then  another,  and 
another  wolt  joined  in  the  chaie,  until  his 
pursuers  amounted  to  twenty  or  thirty,  and 
uiey  ran  him  down  before  he  could  reach  his 
friends.  There  were  a  few  bulls  near  the 
place,  and  one  of  them  attacked  the  wolves, 
and  tried  to  rescue  him ;  but  was  driven  off 
immediately,  and  the  little  animal  fell  an 
easy  prey,  li&lf  devoured  before  he  was  dead. 
We  watched  the  chase  with  the  interest  al- 
ways felt  for  the  weak ;  and  had  tlicre  been 
a  saddled  horse  at  hand,  he  would  nave  fared 
better.  Leaving  camp,  our  road  soon  ap- 
proached the  liillH,  in  which  strata  of  a  marl 
like  that  of  the  Chimney  rock,  hereafter  de- 
scribed, make  their  appearance.  It  is  proba- 
bly of  this  rock  that  the  hills  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Platte,  a  little  below  the  junction, 
are  composed,  and  which  are  worked  by  the 
winds  and  rains  int<^  sharp  peaks  and  cones, 
iving  them,  in  contrtist  to  the  surrounding 
vel  region,  something  of  a  picturesque  ap- 


liearaiicn.  Wo  croMKrd  (his  nmrning  mime- 
riiim  iM-ds  of  the  Hinall  crcckN  which,  in  th< 
tiiiiu  of  rains  and  ineltinu  kiiow,  iMiiir  down 
from  tho  riilt{0,  liringin^  iTown  with  them  al- 
wiiys  great  (juiuitili)'*  of  xaiid  niid  gravel, 
which  have  gradually  rairi'd  their  beds  four 
to  ten  li'i't  aluive  the  Iru'l  of  tho  prairie, 
which  tlx'y  vrun*,  making  ea(tli  one  of  thcin 
a  miniahire  I'o,  UaiHrd  in  this  way  ulKJva 
tho  Miirrouiidiiig  prairie,  without  any  bank, 
the  long  V'  How  and  winding  line  of  their 
bodM  reseiiililcH  a  causeway  Iroiii  the  hills  to 
tho  river.  Many  "pots  on  tho  i)rairie  aro 
yellow  with  Runtlowor  (hfliitnihus). 

As  wo  were  riding  olowly  along  this  after- 
noon,  clouds  of  diint  in  the  ra\iiieij,  among 
tho  hills  to  the  right,  suddenly  attracted  our 
attention,  and  in  a  few  minutes  column  after 
column  of  bulFalo  canio  galluniiig  down, 
making  directly  to  tho  river,  liy  the  time 
tho  loading  herds  had  reached  the  water,  tho 

rniirie  was  darkened  with  thcdciiHO  musses, 
mmcdiutoly  before  us,  when  the  bands  first 
came  down  into  tho  valley,  stretched  an  un- 
broken line,  the  head  of  which  was  lost 
among  tho  rivor  hills  on  the  op|iosite  side ; 
and  still  they  poured  down  from  the  ridge  on 
our  right.  From  hill  to  hill,  the  prairie  bot- 
tom was  certainly  not  less  than  two  miles 
wide;  and,  allowing  the  animals  to  be  ten 
feet  apart,  and  only  ten  in  a  line,  there  were 
alreauy  eleven  thousand  in  view.  iSome 
idea  may  thus  be  formed  of  their  number 
when  they  had  occupied  the  whole  plain. 
In  a  short  time  they  surrounded  us  on  every 
side ;  extending  for  several  miles  in  the  rear, 
and  forward  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach ; 
leaving  around  us,  as  we  advanced,  an  open 
space  of  only  two  or  three  hundred  yards. 
This  movement  of  the  bufTalo  indicated  to 
us  the  presence  of  Indians  on  llie  north 
fork. 

I  halted  earlier  than  usual,  about  forty 
miles  from  the  junction,  and  all  hands  were 
soon  busily  engaged  in  preparing  a  feast  to 
celebrate  the  day.  The  kindness  of  our 
friends  at  St.  Louis  had  provided  us  with  a 
large  supply  of  excellent  preserves  and  rich 
fruit  cake ;  and  when  these  were  added  to  a 
maccaroni  soup,  and  variously  prepared  dish- 
es of  the  choiceni  uuffiilo  meat,  crowne<l 
\vith  a  cup  of  coffee,  and  enjoyed  with  prai- 
rie appetite,  we  felt,  as  we  sat  in  baruirio 
luxury  around  our  smoking  supper  on  the 
grass,  a  greater  sensation  of  enjoyment  than 
the  Roman  epicure  at  his  perfumed  feast 
But  most  of  all  it  seemed  to  please  our  In- 
dian friends,  who,  in  tho  unrestrained  enjoy- 
ment of  the  moment,  demanded  to  know  if 
our  "  medicine  days  came  oRen."  No  re- 
straint was  exercised  at  the  hospitable  board, 
and,  to  the  great  delight  of  his  elders,  ouf 
young  Indian  lad  miule  himself  extrenwl) 
drunk. 


r 


11843. 


Ht'd  iIiIm  mririilii);  num«> 
lall  crci'kH  wliicli,  in  the 
ncltlnu  ynow,  iK)iir  down 
(;iii(;  iTowii  w  itii  tliviii  «!• 
i('«  (if  MHiiil  niid  gravel, 
niircil  tliL'ir  bi>(l«  I'uur 


vn 


tlii<  l)>u-l  (it  tlio  prairie, 
iiikiiii;  I'licli  ono  of  tlicm 
iiiHi'(riii  tliiit  wuy  iilxiva 
airio,  witlKJiit  uiiy  Imiik, 
lid  wiiidiii|{  line  (if  lliuii 
tmewiiy  Iniiii  tlic  hill*  to 
|Miti*  on  llio  iiruirio  aro 
vet  (hfliitrilhns). 
i^nldwly  iilon){  thin  aflor- 
Ht  ill  tlio  ruMiicri,  ainoni; 
t,  midilcnly  uttractcd  our 
cw  miiiiitcit  column  after 

cunio  Kulluiiiii);    down, 

the  river.     Ity  the  time 

ad  reaclii'd  the  water,  tlio 

!d  with  the  dciiHO  muiiBeR. 

im,  when  the  band*  lirkt 

0  valley  Htretched  an  uii- 
lead  uf  which  waa  loM 
lla  nn  the  opiiordto  aide ; 
d  down  from  the  rid^re  on 
ill  tu  hill,  the  prairio  hot- 
not  letia  than  two  miles 
i|;  the  animnla  to  be  ten 

ten  in  a  line,  there  were 
>U8and   in  view.     Borne 

formed  of  their  number 
;cupied  the  whole  plain, 
y  surroiindt-d  us  on  every 
■  several  miles  in  the  rear, 
r  as  the  eye  could  reach ; 
as  we  advanced,  an  open 
or  three  hundred  yards. 

the  butfulo  indicated  to 
of  Indians  on  Uie  north 

than  usual,  about  forty 

ction,  and  all  hands  were 

id  in  preparing  a  feast  to 

The  kindnesH  of   our 

1  had  provided  us  with  a 
sellent  preserves  and  rich 
icn  these  were  added  to  a 
\l  variously  prepared  dish- 
•i  uufialo  meat,  crowne'l 
!e,  and  enjoyed  with  prai* 
It,  as  we  sat  in  barbaric 
r  smoking  supper  on  the 
nsation  of  enjoyment  than 
re  at  his  perfumed  feast 

seemed  to  please  our  In- 
in  the  unrestrained  enjo^* 
mt,  demanded  to  know  if 
^B  came  often."  No  re- 
ed at  the  hospitable  board, 
Jelight  of  his  elders,  oui 

miuie  himself  extremel) 


1849. 


CAPT.  FU':M(»NT'8  NAHRATIVK. 


18 


Our  Piiramnmont  wnx  within  a  few  inilM 
of  the  pliicc  wliiTo  tlin  roml  cromioM  to  the 
north  fork,  uiid  vnrioiiH  rciiMdnx  led  mo  t"  di- 
viilo  my  |iiirty  nt  tliiN  jKiiiit.  'I'lic  nurili  lurk 
'MH*  tli(<  prin('i|iiil  (ihjcrt  of  my  Hiir\('y  j  hut 
I  wa*  (IcHir'iiiM  to  a!«('<>nil  the  noiitli  liraiu^h, 
with  II  view  of  oh(aiiiiii|(  tmino  Hstronnmical 
piMitiiiiiN,  and  dptcrniiiiiiik;  the  mouths  of  its 
tribuiiiriPH  nn  fur  a*  St.  Vrain'n  tort,  eHtimHt- 
cd  III  Im  mim»*  two  liiinilrcd  iniloH  further  up 
iho  river,  and  near  to  I,(iii;x'*  |M>iik.  'riii.'ro 
I  hoped  tnolitiiii  nnme  muloH,  whJi-h  I  fniind 
would  1)0  noco»<s:iry  to  reliovi!  my  hdrno*.  In  a 
military  point  of  view,  I  wasdoHlroiiH  to  form 
inmo  opinion  of  the  country  rcliitivo  to  the  ns- 
tabli*hmriit  of  ponti  on  a  lino  ronnoctingthe 
iipttlcmeiits  with  the  south  pnisi*  of  the 
Rocky  mounfnins,  by  way  of  the  Arkaiinns 
and  the  south  and  I.aramio  forkf<  of  the 
Platte.  (^roNrtitiH  tho  country  northwoHt. 
wardly  from  St,  Vrain's  fort,  to  the  .Ampri- 
ran  company'^  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  La- 
ramie, would  give  mo  Hoino  ac(|iiaintanco 
with  tho  afTliicntH  which  hpad  in  tho  moun- 
tain* between  tho  two ;  I  tliereforo  deter- 
mined to  not  out  the  next  morning,  accompa- 
nied by  Mr.  Preii«»  and  four  men.  Maxwell, 
Bernicr,  Ayof,  and  Basil  Lajouncxflo.  Our 
Cheycnneit,  whoHO  village  lay  up  this  river, 
also  decided  to  accompany  us.  The  party  I 
left  in  charge  of  CI6mont  lAmljort,  with  or- 
ders to  croHs  to  tho  north  fork  ;  and  at  some 
convenient  place,  near  to  the  Coulie  des 
Frkrwx,  make  a  cache  of  everything  not  ab- 
snlulely  necessary  to  tho  further  progress 
of  our  expedition.  From  this  point,  using 
the  most  guarded  precaution  In  his  march 
through  tho  country,  he  was  to  proceed  to 
the  American  company's  fort  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Laramie's  fork,  and  await  my  arrival, 
which  would  be  prior  to  the  16th,  as  on  that 
and  the  following  night  would  occur  some 
occultatioi;><  which  I  was  desirous  to  obtain 
at  that  place. 

July  6. — Befort-  breakfast  all  was  ready. 
We  had  one  led  horse  in  addition  to  those 
we  rode,  and  a  packed  mulo.  destined  to  car- 
ry our  instruments,  provisions,  »nd  baggage ; 
the  last  two  articles  not  being  of  very  groat 
weight.  The  instruments  consisted  of  a 
sextant,  artificial  horizon,  &c.,  a  barometer, 
spy  glass,  and  compass.  The  chronometer  I 
of  course  kept  on  my  person,  I  had  ordered 
the  cook  to  put  up  for  us  some  flour,  coffee, 
and  sugar,  and  our  rifles  were  to  furnish  the 
rest.  One  blanket,  in  addition  to  his  saddle 
and  saddle  blanket,  furnished  the  materials 
for  each  man's  bed,  and  every  one  was  pro- 
vided with  a  change  of  linen.  All  were 
armed  with  rifles  or  double  barrelled  guns ; 
and,  in  addition  to  these.  Maxwell  and  my- 
self were  furnished  with  excellent  pistols. 
Thus  accoutred,  we  took  a  parting  breakfast 
Miith  our  friends,  and  set  forth. 


Our  journey  llic  first  dity  ii(!Iirilril  nntliing 
of  any  iiiterpHt.  We  KJiot  a  liull'iilii  tnward 
HUnspt,  and  hnviiig  (ilitiiliipit  mihiip  iiieiit  for 
our  pvi'iiing  nii'iil,  piii'aiii|ii'il  wli(>ri<  a  little 
limlx'r  iilliirded  iih  the  uuaiirt  ol  making  % 
lire.  Having  diH|>iii«(>il  our  meat  on  rousting 
i*tick(t,  wp  pro('ped(>(l  to  un|iark  our  hales  in 
Hoarcli  of  colli'o  and  sugar,  iiml  llour  for 
broad.  With  ihc  pxception  of  a  lilllp  parch- 
ed colfcp,  iingroiiiid,  wo  loiiml  iiDthing.  Our 
cook  had  negloctpil  to  put  It  iiii,  or  it  had 
lippii  soinehow  forirotten.  'I'lrcd  iirul  hun- 
gry, with  tough  hull  input  without  halt  (Inr 
wo  hud  not  hppii  alilo  to  kill  a  cow),  iiiid  a 
little  bitter  cotfeo,  wo  sut  down  in  Hilcnco  to 
our  misoruble  faro,  a  vpry  diHconsolate  iiurty  ; 
for  yi'.sierday's  fpai«t  was  yet  lrp»li  In  our 
iiiptnorips,  and  this  wan  our  Mrst  \ttw\\  with 
miHfortiine.  Kuch  nmii  took  his  blanket, 
and  laid  himself  downsilpiitly  ;  for  the  worst 
part  of  these  mishap-t  is,  that  Ihcv  make 
people  ill-humored.  To-day  wo  had  travel- 
led ulxiut  thirty-six  miles. 

July  (i. — Finding  that  our  present  exciir- 
si(m  would  lie  attended  with  considerable 
hardship,  and  unwilling  to  expose  more  per- 
sons than  necessary,  I  deterinined  to  send 
Mr.  Preiiss  back  to  the  party.  I  lis  horse, 
too,  app<<arcd  in  no  condition  to  support  tho 
journey  ;  and  accordingly,  after  breakfast, 
ho  took  tho  road  across  tho  hills,  attended 
hy  one  of  my  most  trusty  men,  Bernier.  The 
ridge  between  tho  rivers  is  hero  al)out  fifteen 
miles  broad,  and  I  expected  he  would  proba- 
bly strike  the  fork  near  their  evening  camp. 
At  all  events  ho  would  not  fail  to  /ind  their 
trail,  and  rejoin  thom  the  next  day. 

We  continued  our  journcv'.  seven  in  num- 
ber, including  the  three  Cfheyennps.  Our 
general  course  was  southweBt,'np  the  valley 
of  the  river,  which  was  sandy,  bordered  on 
the  northern  side  of  the  valley  by  a  low 
ridge  ;  and  on  the  south,  after  seven  or  eight 
miles,  tho  river  hills  became  higlier.  Six 
rniles  from  our  resting  place  we  crossed  the 
bed  of  a  considerable  stream,  now  entirely 
dry — a  bed  of  sand.  In  a  grove  of  willows, 
near  the  mouth,  were  the  remains  of  a  con- 
siderable fort,  constructed  of  trunks  of  largo 
trees  It  was  apparently  very  cid,  and  had 
probably  been  the  scene  of  some  hostile  en- 
counter among  the  roving  tribes,  Its  soli- 
tude formed  an  iir.pressive  contrast  to  the 
picture  which  our  imaginations  involunta- 
rily drew  of  the  busy  scene  which  had  been 
enacted  here.  The  timber  appeared  to  have 
been  much  more  extensive  formerly  than 
now.  There  were  but  few  trees,  a  kind  of 
long-leaved  willow, standing;  and  numerous 
trunks  of  large  trees  were  scattered  about 
on  the  ground.  In  many  similar  places  I 
had  occasion  to  remark  an  apparent  progrea- 
sive  decay  in  the  timber.  Ten  miles  far* 
ther  we  reached  the  mouth  of  Lodge  Pol* 


^m-'-  % 


\    .r- 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


,1843 


",rcek,  a  clear  ami  handsomn  stream,  run- 
ning throuffli  a  broad  valley.  In  its  course 
through  the  Ixittom  it  has  a  unil'orin  breadth 
of  twenty-two  feet,  and  six  inche.s  in  depth. 
A  few  willows  on  the  banks  strike  pleasant- 
ly on  the  eye,  by  their  greenness,  in  the 
midst  of  the  hot  and  barren  sands. 

The  amnrpha  was  frequent  among  the 
ravines,  but  the  sunflower  (belianlhiis)  was 
the  characteristic ;  and  flowers  of  deep 
warm  colors  seem  most  to  love  tlie  sandy 
BOil.  The  impression  of  the  country  travelled 
over  to-day  was  one  of  dry  and  barren  sands. 
We  turned  in  towards  the  river  at  noon, 
and  gave  our  horses  two  hours  for  food  and 
rest.  I  had  no  other  thermometer  than  the 
one  attached  to  the  barometer,  which  stood 
at  89°,  the  height  of  the  column  in  the  ba- 
rometer being  26.235  "t  meridian.  The  sky 
was  clear,  with  a  high  wind  from  the  south. 
At  2,  we  continued  our  journey ;  the  wind 
had  moderated,  and  it  became  almost  unen- 
durably  hot,  and  our  animals  suflbred  severe- 
I'y.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  tlie  wind 
rose  suddenly,  and  blew  hard  from  the  south- 
west, with  thunde!  and  lightning,  and  squalls 
of  rain ;  these  were  blown  against  us  with 
violence  by  the  wind ;  ana,  halting,  we 
turned  our  backs  to  the  storm  until  it  blew 
over.  Antelope  were  tolerably  frequent, 
with  a  large  grey  hare ;  but  the  former  were 
shy,  and  the  latter  hardly  worth  the  delay  of 
stopping  to  shoot  them  ;  so,  an  the  evening 
drew  near,  we  again  had  recourse  to  an  old 
bull,  and  encamped  at  sunset  on  an  island  in 
the  Platte. 

We  ate  our  meat  with  a  good  relish  this 
evening,  for  we  were  all  in  hne  health,  and 
had  ridden  nearly  all  of  a  long  summer's 
day,  with  a  burning  sun  reflected  frotn  the 
sands.  My  companions  slept  rolled  up  in 
their  blankets,  and  tiie  Indians  lay  in  the 
grass  near  the  fire ;  but  my  sleeping  place 
generally  had  an  air  of  more  pretension. 
Our  rifles  were  tied  together  near  the  muz- 
zle, the  butts  resting  on  the  ground,  and  a 
knife  laid  on  the  rope,  to  cut  away  in  case 
of  an  alarm.  Over  this,  which  made  a  kind 
of  frame,  was  thrown  a  large  India,  rubber 
cloth,  which  we  used  to  cover  our  packs. 
This  made  a  tent  sufficiently  large  to  receive 
about  half  of  my  bed,  and  was  a  place  of 
shelter  for  my  instruments ;  and  as  I  was 
careful  always  to  put  this  part  against  the 
wind,  I  could  lie  here  with  a  sensation  of 
eatisfled  enjoyment,  and  hear  the  wind  blow, 
and  the  rain  patter  close  to  my  head,  and 
know  that  I  should  be  at  least  half  dry. 
Certainly  I  never  slept  more  soundly.  The 
barometer  at  sunset  was  26.010,  thermome- 
ter 81°,  and  cloudy :  but  a  gale  from  the 
west  sprang  up  with  the  setting  sun,  and 
in  a  few  minutes  swept  away  every  cloud 
from  the  sky.    The  evening  was  very  fine, 


and  I  remained  up  to  take  pome  astronomi- 
cal observations,  which  made  our  jinsition 
ill  latitude  40°  61'  17",  and  longitude  103* 
07'  00". 

July  7. — At  onr  camp  this  morning,  at  9 
o'clocK,  the  barometer  was  at  26  183,  ther- 
mometer 69°,  and  clear,  with  a  light  wind 
from  the  southwest.  The  past  iiiirht  had 
been  squally,  with  high  windu,  and  occision- 
ally  a  few  drops  of  rain.  Our  cookin;;  did 
not  occupy  much  time,  and  we  left  camp 
early.  Nothing  of  interest  occurred  during 
the  morning.  The  same  dreary  harrcniioos. 
except  that  a  hard  marly  clay  hud  replaced 
the  sandy  soil.  Buflalo  absolutely  covered  the 
plain  on  both  sides  the  river,  and  whenever 
wo  ascended  the  hills,  scattered  herds  ,Tave 
life  to  the  view  in  every  direction.  A  sn.all 
drove  of  wild  horses  made  their  appearance 
on  the  low  river  bottoms,  a  mile  or  two  to 
the  left,  and  I  sent  off  one  of  the  Indians 
(who  seemed  very  eager  to  catch  one)  on  my 
led  horse,  a  spirited  and  fleet  animal.  The 
savage  manoeuvred  a  little  to  get  the  wind 
of  the  horses,  in  which  he  succeeded — ap- 
proaching within  a  hundred  yards  without 
being  discovered.  The  chase  for  a  few 
minutes  was  interesting.  My  hunter  easily 
overtook  and  passed  the  hindmost  of  the  wild 
drove,  which  the  Indian  did  not  attempt  to 
lasso;  all  his  eflibrts  being  directed  to  the 
capture  of  the  leader.  But  the  strength  of 
the  horse,  weakened  by  the  insuflicient  nour- 
ishment of  grass,  failed  in  a  race,  and  all  the 
drove  escaped.  We  halted  at  noon  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  the  barometer  at  that  time 
being  26.192,  and  the  thermometer  103°, 
with  a  light  air  from  the  south,  and  clear 
weather. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  dust  rising 
among  the  hills  at  a  particular  place,  at- 
tracted our  attention;  and,  riding  ip,  we 
found  a  band  of  eighteen  or  twenty  >  uffalo 
bulls  engaged  in  a  desperate  fight.  Thi^'ieb 
butting  and  goring  were  bestowed  liberally, 
and  without  distinction,  yet  their  efforts  were 
evidently  directed  against  one — a  huge  gaunt 
old  bull,  very  lean,  while  his  adversaries 
were  all  fat  and  in  good  order.  He  appeared 
very  weak,  and  had  alrexdy  received  some 
wounds,  and,  while  we  were  looking  on,  was 
severa.  times  knocked  down  r.,iil  badly  hurt 
and  a  vary  few  moments  would  have  put  at 
end  to  nim.  Of  course,  we  took  the  side  of 
the  weaker  party,  and  attacked  the  herd ;  hxf 
they  were  so  blind  with  rage,  *hat  thej 
fought  on,  utterly  regardless  of  our  presence, 
although  on  foot  and  on  horseback  wo  were 
firing  in  open  view  within  twenty  yards  of 
them.  But  this  did  not  last  long.  In  »  '.c;ry 
few  seconds,  we  created  a  comm^  '.oa  among 
them.  One  or  t»  ,  —WJn  were  knocked 
over  by  the  balls,  jumped  up  and  ran  oflT  into 
the  hills ;  and  they  began  to  retreat  slowly 


\   «rr."-    . 


«  ,1843 

to  take  pome  nstronomi- 
hich  mftde  our  position 
17",  and  longitude  103* 

camp  tiiis  mornin;?,  at  9 
ter  was  at  26  183,  ther- 
ilear,  with  a  Ilfrl't  wind 
t.  The  past  niu'ht  had 
ligh  winds,  and  occasion* 

rain.  Our  cooliinf;  did 
lime,  and  we  left  camp 
interest  occurred  during 

same  dreary  liarrcniiC"*. 
marly  clay  had  replaced 
[alo  absolutely  covered  the 
the  river,  and  whenever 
tills,  scattered  herds  ^^ave 
jvery  direction.  A  sn.all 
s  made  tiieir  appearand: 
ittoms,  a  mile  or  two  to 
it  off  one  of  the  Indians 
;ager  to  catch  one)  on  my 
1  and  fleet  animal.  The 
1  a  little  to  get  the  wind 
vhich  he  succeeded — ap- 
9,  hundred  yards  without 
The  chase  for  a  few 
sting.  My  ininter  easily 
d  the  hindmost  of  the  wild 
ndian  did  not  attempt  to 
rta  being  directed  to  the 
er.  But  the  strength  of 
;d  by  the  insufficient  nour- 
ailed  in  a  race,  and  all  the 
/e  halted  at  noon  on  the 
.he  barometer  at  that  time 
j  the  thermometer  103°, 
rom  the  south,  and  clear 

the  afternoon,  dnst  rising 
it  a  particular  place,  at- 
tion;  and,  riding  ip,  we 
ghteen  or  twenty  >  uifalo 
I  desperate  fight.  Thc-igh 
r  were  bestowed  liberally, 
ctinn.  yet  their  efforts  were 
igainst  one — a  huge  gaunt 
.n,  while  his  adversaries 
1  good  order.  Ho  appeared 
ad  alroMdy  received  some 
e  we  were  looking  on,  was 
eked  down  aini  badly  hurt 
omenta  would  have  put  at 
;ourse,  we  took  the  side  of 

and  attacked  the  herd ;  btf 
ind  with   rage,  *hat  thej 

regardless  of  our  presence, 
ind  on  horseback  we  were 
w  within  twenty  yards  of 
id  not  last  long.  In  n  '.cjry 
created  a  comm^  .'.oa  amons 
t\      — hli,'!!  were  knocked 

jumped  up  and  ran  off  into 
ey  began  to  retreat  slowly 


1842. 


CAPT.  FRKMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


17 


along  a  broad  ravine  to  the  river,  fighting 
furiously  as  they  wont.  By  the  time  they 
had  reached  the  bottom,  we  had  pretty  well 
dispersed  them,  and  the  old  bull  hobbled  off 
to  lie  down  somewhere.  One  of  his  enemies 
remained  on  the  ground  where  we  had  first 
fired  upon  them,  and  we  stopped  there  for  a 
short  time  to  cut  from  him  some  meat  for  our 
supper.  We  had  neglected  to  secure  our 
horses,  thinking  it  an  unnecessary  precaution 
in  their  fatigued  condition;  but  our  mule 
took  it  into  his  head  to  start,  and  away  he 
went,  followed  at  full  speed  by  the  pack 
horse,  with  all  the  baggage  and  mstruments 
on  his  back.  They  were  recovered  and 
brought  back,  after  a  chase  of  a  mile.  For- 
tunately, everything  was  well  secured,  so 
that  nothing,  not  even  ;..ie  barometer,  was  in 
the  /east  injured. 

The  sun  was  getting  low,  and  some  nar- 
row lines  of  timber  four  or  five  miles  distant 
promised  us  a  pleasant  camp,  where,  with 
plenty  of  wood  for  fire,  and  comfortable  shel- 
ter, and  rich  grass  for  our  animals,  we  ohould 
find  clear  cool  springs,  instead  of  the  warm 
water  of  the  Platte.  On  our  arrival,  we 
found  the  bed  of  a  stream  fi'*y  to  one  hun- 
dred feet  v.'ide,  sunk  some  Ihirty  feet  below 
the  level  of  the  prairie,  wi*h  perpendicular 
()anks,  bordered  by  a  fringe  if  green  cotton- 
wood,  but  not  a  drop  of  water.  There  were 
Beveral  small  forks  to  the  stream,  all  in  the 
same  condition.  With  the  ».'Xception  of  the 
Platte  bottom,  the  country  seemed  to  be  of  a 
clay  formation,  dry,  and  perfeci'.y  devoid  of 
any  moisture,  and  baked  hard  by  ih?  sun. 
Turning  off  towards  the  river,  we  reached  the 
bank  in  about  a  mile,  and  were  delighted  to 
find  an  old  tree,  with  thick  foliage  and 
spreading  branches,  where  we  encampe.1. 
At  sunset,  the  barometer  was  at  25.960, 
thermometer  81",  with  a  strong  wind  fromS. 
20°  E.,  and  the  sky  partially  covered  with 
heavy  ma.'^ses  of  cloud,  which  settled  a  little 
towards  the  horizon  by  10  o'clock,  leaving  it 
sufficiently  clear  for  astronomical  observa- 
tions, which  placed  us  in  latitude  40°  33'  26", 
and  longitude  103°  30'  37". 

July  8. — The  morning  wai  very  pleasant. 
The  breeze  was  fresh  from  S.  60°  E.  with 
few  clouds ;  the  barometer  at  S  o'clock  stand- 
isg  at  25.970,  and  the  thermometer  at  70°. 
Since  leaving  the  forks,  our  route  had  passed 
over  a  country  alternately  clay  and  sand, 
each  presenting  th"  rnrne  naked  waste.  On 
leaving  cam^  liiis  morning,  we  struck  again 
a  sand«'  .egion,  in  which  the  vegetation  ap- 
iv»:.i«d  somewhat  more  vigorous  than  that 
which  we  had  observed  for  the  last  few  days ; 
ind  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  were 
wme  tolerably  large  groves  of  timber. 

Journeying  along,  we  came  suddenly  upon 
a  place  where  the  ground  was  covered  with 
horses'  tracks,  which  had  been  made  since 


the  rain,  n.nd  indicated  the  immediate  pres- 
ence of  Indians  in  uiir  neighborhood.  The 
buffalo,  too,  which  the  day  before  had  been  so 
numerous,  were  nowhere  in  sight — another 
sure  indication  that  there  were  people  near. 
Riding  on,  we  discovered  the  carcass  of  a 
buffalo  recently  killed — perhaps  the  day  be- 
fore. We  scanned  the  horizon  carefully 
with  the  glass,  but  no  living  object  was  to  be 
seen.  For  tht;  ..e.xt  mile  or  two,  the  ground 
was  dotted  with  buffilo  carcasses,  which 
showed  that  the  Indians  had  made  a  surround 
here,  an;',  were  in  considerable  force.  We 
went  on  quickly  and  cautiously,  keeping  the 
river  bottom,  and  carefully  avoiding  the  hills ; 
but  we  met  with  no  interruption,  and  befmn 
to  grow  careless  again.  We  had  already 
lost  one  of  our  horses,  and  here  Basil's  mule 
showed  symptoms  of  giving  out,  and  finally 
refused  to  advance,  being  what  the  Canadians 
call  reslS.  He  therefore  dismounted,  and 
drove  her  along  before  him ;  but  this  was  a 
very  slow  way  of  travelling.  We  had  inad- 
vertently got  about  half  a  mile  in  advance, 
but  our  Cheyennes,  who  were  generally  a 
mile  or  two  in  the  rear,  remained  with  him. 
There  were  some  dark-looking  objects  among 
the  hills,  about  two  miles  to  the  left,  here  low 
and  undulating,  which  we  had  seen  for  a 
little  time,  and  supposed  to  be  buffalo  coming 
in  to  water :  but,  happening  to  look  behind, 
Maxv.'ell  saw  the  Cheyennes  whipping  np 
furiously,  and  another  "glance  at  the  dark 
objects  siiowed  thern  at  once  to  be  Indians 
coming  up  ut  speed. 

Had  we  been  well  mounted,  and  disen- 
cumbered of  instruments,  we  might  have  set 
them  at  defiance ;  but  as  it  was,  we  were 
fairly  caught.  It  was  too  late  to  rejoin  our 
friends,  and  we  endeavored  to  gain  a  clump 
of  timber  about  half  a  mile  ahead ;  but  the 
instruments  and  the  tired  state  of  our  horses 
did  not  allow  us  to  go  faster  than  a  steady 
canter,  and  they  were  gaining  on  us  fast. 
At  first,  they  did  not  appear  to  be  more  than 
fifteen  or  twenty  in  number,  but  group  afler 
group  darted  into  view  at  the  top  of  the  hills, 
until  all  the  little  eminences  seemed  in  mo- 
tion, und,  in  a  few  minutes  from  the  time 
they  were  first  discovered,  two  or  three  hun- 
dred, naked  to  the  breech  cloth,  were  sweep- 
ing across  the  prairie.  In  a  few  hundred 
yards  we  discovered  that  the  timber  we  were 
endeavoring  to  make  was  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river ;  and  before  we  could  reach 
the  bank,  down  came  the  Indians  upon  us. 

I  am  inclined  to  think  that  in  a  few  sec- 
onds more  the  leading  man,  and  perhaps 
some  of  his  companions,  would  have  rolled 
in  the  dust ;  for  we  had  jerked  the  covers 
from  our  guns,  and  our  fingers  were  on  the 
triggers;  men  in  such  cases  generally  act 
from  instinct,  and  a  charge  from  three  hun- 
dred naked  savages  is  a  circumstance  not 


':Tt  ?'*■■< 


tut*" 


«-• 


Jl 


CAPT.  FRE.MOXT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1843 


well  calf  nlatnd  to  prr.moto  a  cool  exercise  of 
jiidijinent.  Just  as  lie  was  about  to  fire, 
Maxwell  recorriiized  the  leading  Indian,  and 
ehouted  to  liiin  in  the  Indian  Ian<rna{;e, 
"  Yoa'ro  a  fool,  G —  damn  you,  don't  you 
know  ino  ?"  The  sound  of  his  own  lan- 
guage seemed  to  shock  the  savapfe,  and, 
swerving  his  horse  a  little,  he  passed  ua  like 
an  arrow.  He  wheeled,  as  I  rode  out  toward 
him,  and  pave  me  his  hand,  striking  his 
breast  and  exclaiming  "Arapalio!"  They 
proved  to  be  a  village  of  tliat  nation,  among 
whom  .Mii.xwell  had  resided  as  a  trader  a  year 
or  two  picviously,  and  recognized  him  ac- 
cordingly. We  were  soon  in  the  mid.sl  of 
the  band,  answering  as  well  as  we  could  a 
multitude  of  questions ;  of  which  the  very 
first  was,  of  what  tri  vs  were  our  Indian  com- 
panions whd  were  coming  in  the  rear  ?  They 
seemed  disap|)ointed  to  know  that  they  were 
Cheyennes,  'ior  they  had  fully  anticipated  a 
gra  nd  dance  n  round  a  Pawnee  scalp  that  night. 

The  chief  showed  us  his  village  at  a  grove 
on  the  river  six  miles  ahead,  and  pointed  out 
a  band  of  buttalo  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Platte,  immediately  opposite  us,  which  he 
said  they  were  going  to  surround.  They  had 
seen  the  band  early  in  the  morning  from  their 
village,  and  had  been  making  a  large  circuit, 
to  avoid  giving  them  the  wind,  when  they 
discovered  us.  In  a  few  minutes  the  women 
came  galloping  up,  astride  on  their  horses, 
and  naked  from  their  knees  down,  and  the 
1)1  ps  up.  They  followed  the  men,  to  assist 
in  cutting  up  and  carrying  ofT  the  meat. 

The  wind  was  blowing  directly  across  the 
river,  and  the  chief  requested  us  to  halt  where 
we  were  for  awhile,  in  order  to  avoid  raising 
the  herd.  We  therefore  unsaddled  our  horses, 
and  sat  down  on  the  bank  to  view  the  scene ; 
and  our  new  acquaintances  rode  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  lower  down,  and  began  crossing 
the  river.  Scores  of  wild-looking  dogs  fol- 
lowed, looking  like  troops  of  wolves,  and 
having,  in  fact,  but  very  little  of  the  do^  in 
their  composition.  Some  of  them  remamed 
with  us,  and  I  checked  one  of  the  men,  whom 
I  found  aiming  at  one,  which  he  was  about  to 
kill  for  a  wolE  The  day  had  becomo  very 
hot.  The  air  was  clear,  with  a  very  slight 
breeze ;  and  now,  at  12  o'clock,  while  the  ba- 
rometer stood  at  26.920,  the  attached  tliermo- 
meter  was  at  1 08".  Our  Cheyennes  had  learn- 
ned  that  with  the  Arapaho  village  were  about 
twenty  lodges  oftheirown,includingtheirown 
femilies  ;  they  therefore  immediately  com- 
menced making  theirtoilette.  After  bathing  in 
the  river,  they  invested  themselves  in  some 
handsome  calico  shirts,  which  I  afterward 
learned  they  had  stolen  from  my  own  men,  and 
spent  some  time  in  arranging  their  hair  and 
painting  themselves  witli  some  vermilion  I 
had  given  them.  While  they  were  engaged 
in  this  satisfactory  manner,  one  of  their  half- 


wild  horsep,  to  which  the  crowd  of  prancing 
aiiimiils  which  had  just  pas.sed  had  recalled 
the  I'reedom  of  her  existence  among  the  wild 
droves  on  the  prairie,  suddenly  dashed  Uito 
the  hills  at  the  top  of  her  speed.  She  vas 
ilieir  pack  horse,  and  had  on  her  back  al'  the 
worldly  wealth  of  our  poor  Cli  wnnes  all 
their  accoutrements,  and  all  the  lii'ic  arti  des 
which  they  had  picked  up  among  us,  <  'ith 
some  few  presents  I  had  given  iliem.  '-'he 
loss  which  they  seemed  to  regret  most  w  jre 
their  spears  and  shields,  and  some  tobacco 
which  they  had  received  from  me.  IIowe\er, 
they  bore  it  all  with  the  philosophy  of  an  In- 
dian, and  laughingly  continued  their  toilette. 
They  appeared,  however,  a  little  mortified  at 
the  thought  of  returning  to  the  village  in  such 
a  sorry  plight.  "  Our  people  will  laugh  at 
us,"  said  one  of  them,  "  reluming  to  the  vil- 
lage on  foot,  instead  of  driving  back  a  drove 
of  Pawnee  horses."  He  demanded  to  know 
if  I  loved  my  sorrel  hunter  very  much  ;  to 
which  I  replied,  he  was  the  object  of  my 
most  intense  aOection.  Far  from  being  able 
to  give,  I  was  myself  in  want  of  horses ;  and 
any  suggestion  of  parting  with  the  few  I  had 
valuable,  was  met  with  a  peremptory  refusal. 
In  the  meantime,  the  slaughter  was  about  to 
commence  on  the  other  side.  So  soon  as 
they  reached  it,  the  Indians  separate  '  to 
two  bodies.  One  parly  proceeded  i.>'- 
across  the  prairie,  towards  the  hills, 
extended  line,  while  the  other  went  c_  ., 
river  ;  and  instantly  as  they  had  given  th< 
wind  to  the  herd,  the  chase  commenced.  Th* 
bufFdlo  started  for  the  hills,  but  were  inter 
cepted  and  driven  back  toward  the  rivei 
broken  and  running  in  every  direction.  Tin 
clouds  of  dust  soon  covered  the  whole  scene 
preventing  us  from  having  any  but  an  occa 
sional  view.  It  had  a  very  singular  appear 
ance  to  us  at  a  distance,  especially  whet 
looking  with  the  glass.  We  were  too  far  tt 
hear  the  report  of  the  guns,  or  any  sound  ,- 
and  at  every  instant,  through  the  clouds  of 
dust,  which  the  sun  made  luminous,  we  coulo 
see  for  a  moment  two  or  three  builalo  dashing 
along,  and  close  behind  them  an  Indian  witn 
his  long  spear,  or  other  weapon,  and  instantly 
again  they  disappeared.  The  apparent  si- 
lence, and  the  dimly  seen  figures  Hitting  by 
with  such  rapidity,  gave  it  a  kind  of  dreamy 
effcct,and  seemed  more  like  a  picture  than  a 
scene  of  real  life.  It  had  been  a  large  herd 
when  the  ceme  commenced,  probably  three 
or  four  hundred  in  number  ;  but,  though  I 
watched  them  closely,  I  did  not  see  one 
emerge  from  the  fatal  cloud  where  the  work 
of  destruction  was  going  on.  After  remain 
ing  here  about  an  hou^,  we  resumed  our 
journey  in  the  direction  ot  the  village. 

Gradually,  as  we  rode  on.  Indian  after  In- 
dian came  dropping  along,  ideii  with  meat ; 
and  by  the  time  we  ha^  .  ^  i.tJ  the  lodgea, 


I 


\   ar--^ 


[1842 

li  tlie  crowd  of  pranoine 
just  passed  liad  recalled 
xisteiico  among  tlie  wild 
ie,  suddenly  dashed  Uito 
)f  her  speed.  She  "vaa 
1  had  on  her  hack  a)'  the 
ur  poor  Ci  I  \>  nnes  all 
,  and  all  thelii'iearti  Jea 
ked  up  (irnong  us,  <  'ith 

had  given  ihem.  '-.'ho 
ned  to  regret  most  w  jre 
ields,  and  some  toba<-xo 
ived  from  mo.   IIowe\er, 

the  philosophy  of  an  In- 
r  continued  their  toilette, 
'ever,  a  little  mortified  at 
ling  to  the  village  in  such 
•ur  people  will  laugh  at 
m,  "  returning  to  the  vil- 
1  of  driving  back  a  drove 
lie  demanded  to  know 
1  hunter  very  much  ;  to 
I  was  the  object  of  my 
sn.  Far  from  being  able 
If  in  want  of  horses ;  and 
irting  with  the  few  I  had 
rith  a  peremptory  refusal, 
e  slaughter  was  about  to 
Dthcr  side.  So  soou  as 
5  Indians  separate  '  to 
party  proceeded  i.>'-  ' 
towards  the  hills, 
e  the  other  went  u; 
ly  as  they  had  given  th« 
5  chase  commenced.  Th* 
the  hills,  but  were  inter 

back  toward  the  rivei 
;  in  every  direction.  The 
covered  the  whole  scene 

having  any  but  an  occa 
id  a  very  singular  appear 
listanco,  especially  whei 
ass.    We  were  too  far  tt 

the  guns,  or  any  sound ,- 
nt,  through  the  clouds  of 
1  made  luminous,  we  coulo 
vo  or  three  buffalo  dashina 
(hind  them  an  Indian  with 
ther  weapon,  and  instantljr 
eared.  The  apparent  si- 
ily  seen  figures  flitting  by 
,  gave  it  a  kind  of  drean;y 
more  like  a  picture  than  a 
It  had  been  a  large  herd 
mmenced,  probably  three 
I  number  ;  but,  though  1 
osely,  I  did  not  see  one 
Eital  cloud  where  the  work 

going  on.    After  remain 
n  hou',  we  resumed  our 
ection  ot  the  village, 
e  rode  oft,  ludian  after  In- 
g  along,  iidiii  with  meat ; 
ve  haci  .^i.iJ  the  lodges, 


i84a.] 


CAPT.  FUKMONT'S  \ARR.\T1VE. 


10 


the  backward  road  v.-as  covered  with  the  re- 
turning horsemen.     It  was  a  plr-asant  con- 
trast with  the  desert  road  wn  had  been  trav- 
ellinsj.     Several  had   joined  company  with 
us,  and  one  of  the  chiefs  invited  u.s  to  his 
lodge.     The  village  consisted  of  about  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  lodges,  of  which 
twenty  were  Cheyennes  ;    the  latter  pitched 
a  little  apart  from  the  Arapahoes.     They 
were  disposed  in  a  scattering  manner  on  Iwth 
aide.=i  of  a  broad  irregular  street,  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide,  and  running 
along  the  river.     As  we  rode  along,  1  re- 
marked near  some  of  the  lodges  a  kind  of 
tripod  frame,  formed  of  three  slender  poles  of 
birch,   scraped  very  clean,  to  which  were 
affixed  the  shield  and  spear .  with  some  other 
weapons  of  a  chief.     All  were  scrupulcusly 
clean,  the  spear  head  was  burnished  bright, 
and  the  shield  white  and  stainless.     It  re- 
minded me  of  the  days  of  feudal  chivalry ; 
and  when,  as  I  rode  by,  I  yielded  to  the  pass- 
ing impulse,  and  touched  one  of  the  spotless 
shields  with  the  muzzle  of  my  gun,  I  almost 
expected  a  grim  warrior  to  start  from  the 
lodge  and  resent  my  challenge.    The  master 
of  the  lodge  spread  out  a   obe  for  me  to  sit 
upon,  and  the  squaws  set  before  us  a  largo 
wooden  dish  of  buffalo  meat.    He  had  lit  his 
pipe   in  the  mean  v/hile,  and  '.'hen  it  had 
been  passed  around,  we  comme  ced  our  din- 
ner while  he  continued  to  smoke.     Grad- 
ually", five  or  six  other  chiefs  came  in,  and 
took"  th°ir  seats  in  silence.    When  we  had 
finished,  oui  ho^t  asked  a  number  of  ques- 
tions relative  to  the  object  of  our  journey,  of 
which  I  made  no  concealment ;   telling  him 
simply  that  I  had  made  a  visit  to  see  the 
country,  preparatory  to  the  establishment  of 
military  posts  on  the  way  to  the  mountains. 
Although  this  was  information  of  the  high- 
est interest  to  them,  and  by  no  means  calcu- 
lated to  please  them,  it  excited  no  expres- 
sion of  surprise,  and  in  no  way  altered  the 
grave   courtesy  of  their  demeanor.      The 
others   listenea  and  smoked.    I  remarked, 
tliat  in  taking  tlie  pipe  for  the  first  time, 
each  had  turned  the  stem  upward,  with  a 
rapid  glance,  as  in  offering  to  the  Great 
Spirit,  before  he  put  it  in  his  mouth.    A 
storm  had  been  gathering  for  the  past  hour, 
and  some  pattering   drops   on    tlie   lodge 
warned  us  that  we  had  some  miles  to  our 
camp.    Some  Indian  had  given  Maxwell  a 
bunale  of  dried  meat,  which  was  very  ac- 
ceptable, as  we  had  nothing;  and,  springing 
upon  our  horses',  we  rode  off  at  dusk  in  the 
face   of  a  cold  shower  and  driving  wind. 
We    found   out    companions    under   some 
densely  foliaged  old  trees,  about  three  miles 
up  the  river.    Under  one  of  them  lay  the 
trunk  of  a  large  cotton-wood,  to  leeward  of 
which  the  men  had  kindled  a  fire,  and  we 
■at  here  and  roasted  our  meat  in  tolerable 


siielter.  .\er>-.",y  opposite  was  the  mouth  of 
one  of  tlie  mcst  considerable  afHuents  of  the 
South  fork,  la  Fimrch".  mix  Castors  (Beaver 
fork),  heading  off  in  the  ridge  to  the  south- 
east. 

Jiilij  9. — This  morning  we  caught  the 
first  faint  glinip.se  of  the  Rocky  mountains, 
about  sixty  miles  distant.  Though  a  toler- 
ably bright  day,  there  was  a  sliglit  mist,  and 
we  were  just  able  to  discern  the  snowy  sum- 
mit of  "  Long's  peak"  ("  les  dciij:  oreilks  " 
of  the  Canadians),  showing  like  a  small 
cloud  near  the  horizon.  I  found  it  easily 
distinguishable,  there  being  a  perceptible 
ditlerence  in  its  appearance  from  the  white 
clouds  that  were  floating  about  the  sky.  I 
was  pleasel  to  find  that  among  the  traders 
and  voyageurs  thrt  name  of  "  Long's  peak  " 
had  been  adopted  ind  become  familiar  in  the 
country.  In  the  lavinea  near  this  place,  a 
light  brown  sandstone  m.ido  its  first  apjiear- 
anco.  About  8,  we  discerned  sevt:al  per- 
sons on  horseback  a  mile  or  two  ahead,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  tlie  river.  They  turned 
in  towards  the  river,  and  we  rode  down  to 
meet  them.  We  found  them  to  be  two 
white  men,  and  a  mulatto  named  Jim  Beck- 
'vilh,  who  had  left  St.  Louis  when  a  boy, 
and  gone  to  live  with  the  Crow  Indians. 
He  had  distinguished  himself  among  them 
by  some  acts  of  daring  bravery,  and  had 
risen  to  the  rank  of  a  chief,  but  had  now,  for 
some  years,  left  them.  They  were  rn  search 
of  a  band  of  horses  that  had  gone  oflT  from  a 
camp  some  miles  above,  in  charge  of  Mr. 
Chabonard.  Two  of  them  continued  do>vn 
the  river,  in  search  of  the  horses,  and  the 
American  turned  back  with  us,  and  we  rode 
on  towards  the  camp.  About  eight  miles 
from  our  sleeping  place  we  reached  Bijou's 
fork,  an  affluent  of  the  right  bank.  Where 
we  crossed  it,  a  short  distance  from  the 
Platte,  it  has  a  sandy  bed  about  four  hun- 
dred yards  broad ;  the  water  in  various 
small  streams,  a  few  inches  deep.  Seven 
miles  further  brought  us  to  a  camp  of  some 
four  or  five  v/hites  (New  Englanders,  I  be- 
lieve), who  had  accompanied  Captain  Wyeth 
to  the  Columbia  river,  and  were  independent 
trappers.  All  had  their  squaws  with  them, 
and  I  was  really  surprised  at  the  number  of 
little  fat  bufialo-fed  boys  that  were  tumbling 
about  the  camp,  all  apparently  of  the  same 
age,  about  three  or  four  years  old.  They 
were  encamped  on  a  rich  bottom,  covered 
with  a  profusion  of  fine  grass,  and  had  a 
large  number  of  fine-looking  horses  and 
mules.  We  rested  with  them  a  few  min- 
utes, and  in  about  two  miles  arrived  at  Cha- 
bonard's  camp,  on  an  island  in  the  Platte. 
On  the  heights  above,  we  met  the  first  Span- 
iard  I  had  seen  in  the  country.  Mr.  Chabo- 
nard was  in  the  service  of  Bent  and  St. 
Vrain's  company,  and  had  left  their  fort 


.f*= 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1842 


I 
i 


Borac  forty  or  fifty  miles  above,  in  the  sprinp, 
with  boats  lailnn  witli  the  furs  of  tiie  hist 
year's  trade.  He  iiad  met  the  same  fortune 
as  the  v<)}'af;purs  on  tlie  North  fork,  and, 
lindini>-  it  iinpossible  to  proceed,  iiad  taken 
up  his  summer's  residence  on  this  island, 
whicli  he  liad  named  St.  Helena.  The 
river  hills  appeared  to  be  composed  entirely 
of  sand,  and  the  Platte  had  lost  the  muddy 
character  of  its  waters,  and  here  was  toler- 
ably clear.  From  the  mouth  of  the  South 
fork,  I  had  found  it  occiisionally  broken  up 
by  small  islands ;  and  at  the  time  of  our 
journey,  which  was  at  a  season  of  the  year 
when  the  waters  were  at  a  favorable  stage, 
it  was  not  navigable  for  anything  drawing 
i'ls.  inches  water.  The  current  was  very 
!wiit — the  lx;d  of  the  stream  a  coarse  gravcf. 

Fiom  the  place  at  which  we  had  encoun- 
tered the  Arapahoes,  the  Platte  had  been 
loltrally  well  fringed  with  timber,  and  the 
islari'l  here  had  a  fine  grove  of  very  large 
rol'.on-woods,  under  whose  broad  shade  the 
UMits  were  pitched.  There  was  a  large 
drove  of  horses  in  the  opposite  prairie  bot- 
tom ;  smoke  was  rising  from  the  scattered 
fires,  and  the  encampment  had  quite  a  pa- 
triarchal air.  Mr.  C.  received  us  hospita- 
bly. One  of  the  people  was  sent  to  gather 
mint,  with  the  aid  of  which  he  concocted 
very  good  jul'"p ;  and  some  boiled  buffalo 
tongue,  and  ccnee  with  the  lu.\ury  of  sugar, 
were  soon  se'.  before  us.  The  people  in  his 
employ  were  generally  Spaniards,  and 
among  them  1  saw  a  young  Spanish  woman 
from  Taos,  whom  I  found  to  be  Beckwith's 
wife. 

July  10. — ^We  parted  with  our  boppitable 
host  after  breakfast  the  next  morning,  and 
reached  St.  Vrain'e  Fort,  about  forty-five 
miles  from  St.  Helena,  late  in  the  evening. 
This  post  is  situated  on  the  South  fork  of 
the  Platte,  immediately  under  the  moun- 
tains, about  seventeen  miles  east  of  Long's 
peak.  It  is  on  the  right  bank,  on  the  verge 
of  the  upland  prairie,  about  forty  feet  above 
the  river,  of  which  the  immediate  valley  is 
about  six  hundred  yards  wide.  The  stream 
is  divided  into  various  branches  by  small 
islands,  among  which  it  runs  with  a  swift 
current.  The  bed  of  the  river  is  sand  and 
gravel,  the  water  very  clear,  and  here  may 
be  called  a  mountain  stream.  This  region 
appears  to  be  entirely  free  from  the  lime- 
stones and  marls  which  give  to  the  Lower 
Platte  its  yellow  and  dirty  color.  The  Black 
hills  lie  between  the  stream  and  the  moun- 
tains, whose  snowy  peaks  glitter  a  few 
miles  beyond.  At  the  fort  we  found  Mr.  St. 
Vrain,  who  received  us  with  much  kindness 
and  hospitality.  Maxwell  had  spent  the  last 
two  or  three  years  between  this  post  and  the 
village  of  Taos ;  and  here  he  was  at  home, 
uid  among  his  friends.  Spaniards  frequently 


come  over  in  search  of  employment ;  and 
several  came  in  shortly  after  our  arrival. 
They  usually  obtain  about  six  dollars  a 
month,  generally  paid  to  them  in  goods, 
Thoy  are  very  useful  in  a  camp,  in  taking 
care  of  horses  and  mules ;  and  I  cngagea 
one,  who  proved  to  be  an  active,  laborious 
man,  and  was  of  very  considerable  service 
to  mo.  The  elevation  of  the  Platte  here  ia 
five  thousand  four  hundred  feet  atove  the 
sea.  The  neighboring  mountains  did  not 
appear  to  enter  far  the  region  of  perpetual 
snow,  which  was  generally  confined  to  the 
northern  side  of  the  iieaka.  On  the  south- 
ern, I  remarked  very  little.  Here  it  appear- 
ed, so  far  as  I  could  judge  in  the  distance, 
to  descend  but  a  few  hundred  feet  below  the 
summits. 

I  regretted  that  time  did  not  permit  me  to 
visit  them ;  but  the  proper  object  of  my  sur- 
vey lay  among  the  mountains  further  north ; 
and  I  looked  forward  to  an  exploration  of 
their  snowy  recesses  with  great  pleasure. 
The  piney  region  of  the  mountains  to  the 
south  was  enveloped  in  smoke,  and  I  was 
informed  had  been  on  fire  for  several  months. 
Pike's  peak  is  said  to  be  visible  from  fhis 
place,  about  one  hundred  miles  to  the  south 
ward ;  but  the  smoky  state  of  the  atmosphere 
prevented  my  seeing  it.  The  weather  con- 
tinued overcast  during  my  stay  here,  so  that 
I  failed  in  determining  the  latitude,  but  ob- 
tained good  observations  for  time  on  the 
mornings  of  the  11th  and  12th.  An  assum- 
ed latitude  of  40°  22'  30"  from  the  evening 
osition  of  the  12th,  enabled  me  to  obtain, 
or  a  tolerably  correct  longitude,  106°  12' 
12". 

July  12. — ^The  kindness  of  Mr.  St.  Vrain 
had  enabled  me  to  obtain  a  couple  of  horses 
and  three  good  mules ;  and,  with  a  further 
addition  to  our  party  of  the  Spaniard  whom 
I  had  hired,  and  two  others,  who  were  going 
to  obtain  service  at  Laramie's  fork,  we  re- 
sumed our  journey  at  10,  on  the  morning  of 
the  12th.  We  had  been  able  to  procure 
nothing  at  the  post,  in  the  way  of  provision. 
An  expected  supply  from  Taos  haa  not  yet 
arrived,  and  a  few  pounds  of  coffee  was  all 
that  could  be  spared  to  us.  In  addition  to 
this,  we  had  dried  meat  enough  for  the  first 
day ;  on  the  next,  we  expected  to  find  buf- 
falo. From  this  post,  according  to  the  esti- 
mate of  the  country,  the  fort  at  the  mouth 
of  Laramie's  fork,  which  was  our  next 
point  of  destination,  was  nearly  due  north, 
distant  about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
miles. 

For  a  short  distance,  ou  x)ad  lay  down 
the  valley  of  the  Platte,  whicli  resembled  a 
garden  in  the  splendor  of  fields  of  variea 
nowere,  which  filled  the  air  with  fragrance. 
The  only  timber  I  noticed,  consisted  of  po] 
lar,    birch,  cotton-wood,  and  willow 


K 


[184a 

of  employment;  and 
rtly  after  our  iirrivai. 
I  iitK)iit  six  dollRra  a 
id   tu  them   in  ^ooda, 

in  a  camp,  in  taking 
mles ;  and  I  cnj^agea 
)e  an  active,  iaborioui 
ry  considerable  service 
n  of  tlie  Platte  here  ia 
undred  feet  above  the 
ing  mountains  did  not 
lie  region  of  perpetual 
ncrally  confined  to  the 
iieaks.  On  the  south- 
little.  Here  it  appear- 
judge  in  the  distance, 
hundred  feet  below  the 

le  did  not  permit  me  to 
roper  object  of  my  sur- 
ountains  further  north ; 
to  an  exploration  of 
!  with  great  pleasure. 

the  mountains  to  the 
1  in  smoke,  and  I  was 
1  fire  for  several  months, 
to  bo  visible  from  fhia 
dred  miles  to  the  south 
state  of  the  atmosphere 

it.  The  weather  con- 
ig  my  stay  here,  so  that 
ng  the  latitude,  but  ob- 
tions  for  time  on  the 
1  and  12th.  An  assum- 
I'  30"  from  the  evening 

enabled  me  to  obtain, 
ect  longitude,  105°  12' 

idnesa  of  Mr.  St.  Vrain 
btain  a  couple  of  liorses 
lea ;  and,  with  a  further 
of  the  Spaniard  whom 
others,  who  were  going 
Laramie'a  fork,  we  re- 
it  10,  on  the  morning  of 
1  been  able  to  procure 
in  the  way  of  provision, 
from  Taoa  had  not  yet 
ounda  of  coffee  was  all 
:  to  ua.  In  addition  to 
leat  enough  for  the  first 
e  expected  to  find  buf- 
3t,  according  to  the  esti- 
,  the  fort  at  the  mouth 
which  waa  our  next 
1,  waa  nearly  due  north, 
lundred  and  twenty-five 

ince,  ou  "oad  lay  down 
atte,  which  resembled  8 
ndor  of  iielda  of  varied 
1  the  air  with  fragrance, 
loticed,  consisted  of  por- 
ivood,   and  willow.      1& 


1842.] 


CAI'T.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


« 


, 


Bometliing  less  than  three  miles,  we  crossed 
Thompson's  creek,  one  of  the  atlliients  to  the 
left  bank  of  the  South  fork — a  fine  stream 
about  sixty-five  feet  wide,  and  three  feet 
deep.  Journeying  on,  the  low  dark  line  of 
the  BlacK  hills  lyin;,'  between  us  and  the 
mountains  to  the  left,  in  ahout  ten  miles 
from  the  fort,  wo  reached  Cache  a  la  Poiidre, 
where  we  Iialted  to  noon.  This  is  a  very 
beautiful  mountain  stream,  about  one  hun- 
dred feet  wide,  flowing  with  a  full  swift  cur- 
rent over  a  rocky  bed.  We  halted  under 
the  shade  of  some  cotton-woods,  with  which 
tlie  stream  ia  wooded  scatteringly.  In  the 
upper  part  of  its  course,  it  runs  amid  the 
wildest  mountain  scenery,  and,  breaking 
through  the  Black  hills,- falls  into  the  Platte 
about  ten  miles  below  this  place.  In  the 
course  of  our  late  journey,  1  had  managed 
to  become  the  poaseiisor  of  a  very  untracta- 
ble  mulo^a  perfect  vixen — and  her  I  had 
turned  over  to  my  Spaniard.  It  occupied  us 
tbout  half  an  hour  to-day  to  get  the  saddle 
apon  lier ;  but,  once  on  her  back,  iosi  could 
not  be  dismounted,  realizing  the  accounts 
given  of  Mexican  horses  ana  horsemanship ; 
and  we  continued  our  route  in  the  afler- 
noon. 

At  evening,  we  encamped  on  Crow  (?) 
creek,  having  travelled  about  twenty-eight 
miles.     None  of  the  party  were  well  ac- 

Suainted  with  the  country,  and  I  had  great 
itiiculty  in  ascertaining  what  were  the 
names  of  the  streams  we  crossed  between 
the  North  and  South  forks  of  the  Platte. 
This  I  supposed  to  be  Crow  creek.  It  is 
what  is  called  a  salt  stream,  and  the  water 
stands  in  pools,  having  no  continuous  courae. 
A  fine-grained  aandstone  made  its  appear- 
ance in  the  banks.  Tlie  observations  of  the 
night  placed  us  in  latitude  40o  42',  longi- 
tude 104°  67'  49".  The  barometer  at  sun- 
set waa  26.231 ;  attached  thermometer  at 
66°.  Sky  clear,  except  in  the  east,  with  a 
light  wind  from  the  north. 

July  13. — There  being  no  wood  here,  we 
used  last  night  the  bois  de  vache,  which  ia 
very  plentifiil.  At  our  camp  this  morning, 
the  barometer  was  at  26.335 ;  the  attached 
Uiermometer  60°.  A  few  clouda  were  mov- 
ing through  a  deep  blue  aky,  with  a  light 
wind  from  the  west.  After  a  ride  of  twelve 
miles,  in  a  northerly  direction,  over  a  plain 
covered  with  innumerable  quantities  of  cacti, 
we  reached  a  small  creek  in  which  there  waa 
water,  and  where  several  herds  of  buflalo 
were  scattered  about  among  the  ravines, 
which  always  aiibra  good  pasturage.  We 
seem  now  to  be  passing  along  tlie  base  of  a 
plateau  of  the  Black  hula,  in  which  tlie  for- 
mation consists  of  marls,  eome  of  them  white 
and  laminated ;  the  country  to  the  left  rising 
suddenly,  and  falling  off  gradually  and  uni- 
formly to  the  right.    In  hve  or  six  miles  of 


a  northeasterly  course,  we  struck  a  high 
ridije,  broken  into  conical  peaks,  on  whose 
summits  largo  boulders  w  t  gathered  in 
heaps.  The  magnetic  direction  of  the  ridge 
is  northwest  and  southeast,  the  glittering' 
white  of  its  precipitous  sides  making  it  visible 
for  many  mili<:^  to  the  south.  It  is  composed 
of  a  soft  earthy  "'meatone  and  marls,  resem- 
bling that,  hereafter  described,  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Chimney  rock,  on  the  North 
fork  of  the  Platte,  easily  worked  by  the  winds 
and  rains,  and  sometimes  moulded  into  very 
fantastic  shapes.  At  the  foot  of  the  northern 
slope  was  the  bed  of  a  creek,  some  forty  feet 
wide,  coming,  by  frequent  falls,  from  the 
bench  above.  It  was  shut  in  by  high  per- 
pendicular banks,  in  which  were  strata  of 
white  laminated  marl.  Its  bed  was  perfectly 
dry,  and  the  leading  feature  of  the  whole  re- 
gion is  one  of  remarkable  aridity,  and  perfect 
freedom  from  moisture.  In  alwut  six  miles 
we  crossed  the  bed  of  another  dry  creek;  and, 
continuing  our  ride  over  a  high  level  prairie, 
a  little  before  sundown  we  came  suddenly 
upon  a  beautiful  creek,  which  revived  ua 
with  a  feeling  of  delighted  surprise  by  ti»<5 
pleasant  contrast  of  the  deep  verdure  of  iti 
banks  with  the  parched  desert  we  had  passed. 
We  had  suffered  much  to-day,  both  men  and 
horses,  for  want  of  water ;  having  met  with 
it  but  once  in  our  uninterrupted  march  of 
forty  miles,  and  an  exclusive  meat  diet  ens' 
ates  much  thirst. 

"  Las  bestias  tienen  mueha  hambre,"  said 
the  young  Spaniard,  inquiringly ;  "  ylagerUe 
lambien,"  said  I,  "  amigo,  we'll  camp  here." 
A  stream  of  good  and  clear  water  ran  wind- 
ing about  through  the  little  valley,  and  a 
herd  of  buffalo  were  quietly  feeding  a  little 
distance  below.  It  was  quite  a  hunter's  pa- 
radise ;  and  while  some  ran  down  toward  the 
band  to  kill  one  for  supper,  others  collected 
bois  de  vache  for  a  fire,  there  being  no  wood ; 
and  I  amused  myself  with  hunting  for  plants 
among  the  grass. 

It  will  be  seen,  by  occasional  remarks  on 
the  geological  formation,  that  the  constitu- 
enta  of  the  soil  in  these  regions  are  good, 
and  every  day  served  to  strengthen  the  im- 
pression in  my  mind,  confirmed  by  subse- 
quent observation,  that  the  barren  appear- 
ance of  the  country  is  due  almost  entirely  to 
the  extreme  dryness  of  the  climate.  Along 
our  route,  the  country  had  seemed  to  increase 
constantly  in  elevation.  According  to  the 
indication  of  the  barometer,  we  were  at  our 
encampment  6,440  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  evening  was  very  clear,  with  a  fresh 
breeze  from  the  south,  60o  east.  The  baro- 
meter at  sunset  was  24.862,  the  thermometer 
attached  showing  68°.  I  supposed  this  to 
be  a  fork  of  Lodge  Pole  creek,  so  far  as  I 
could  determine  from  our  iincortain  means 
of  information.     Astronomical  oDservatioM 


ffe 


aa 


CAl'T.  FRKMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


S42. 


'J. 


gave  for  the  camp  a  longitude  of  104°  39' 
37",  and  latitude  41°  08  AV. 

July  14. — Tlio  wind  continued  fresh  from 
the  same  quarter  in  the  morning ;  the  day 
being  clear,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
clouds  in  the  horizon.  At  our  .camp  at  ti 
o'clr-.k,  the  heiijht  of  the  barometer  was 
24.830,  the  attached  thermometer  61°  Our 
course  this  morning  was  directly  north  by 
compass,  the  variation  being  15°  or  lli°  east- 
erly. A  ride  of  four  miles  brought  us  to 
Lodge  I'o'o  creek,  which  we  had  seen  at  its 
mouth  on  the  South  fork  ;  crossing  on  the 
way  two  dry  streams,  in  eighteen  miles  from 
our  encampment  of  the  past  night,  we  reach- 
ed a  high  bleak  ridge,  composed  entirely  of 
the  same  earthy  limestone  and  marl  previ- 
ously described.  I  had  never  seen  anything 
which  impressed  so  strongly  on  my  mind  a 
feeling  of  desolation.  The  valley,  through 
which  ran  the  waters  of  Horse  creek,  lay  in 
view  to  the  north,  but  too  far  to  have  any  in- 
fluence on  the  immediate  view.  On  the  peak 
of  the  ridge  where  I  was  standing,  some  six 
or  seven  hundred  feet  above  the  river,  the 
wind  wap  high  and  bleak ;  the  barren  and 
arid  country  seemed  as  if  it  had  been  swept 
by  fires,  and  in  every  direction  the  same  dull 
ash-colored  hue,  derived  from  the  formation, 
met  tlie  eye.  On  the  summits  were  some 
stunted  pines,  many  of  them  dead,  all  wear- 
ing the  same  ashen  hue  of  desolation.  We 
left  the  place  with  pleasure  ;  and,  after  we 
had  descended  several  hundred  feet,  halted 
in  one  of  the  ravines,  which,  at  the  distance 
of  every  mile  or  two,  cut  the  flanks  of  the 
ridge  with  little  rushing  streams,  wearing 
something  of  a  mountain  character.  We 
had  already  begun  to  exchange  the  compara- 
tively barren  lands  for  those  of  a  more  fertile 
character.  Though  the  sandstone  formed  the 
broken  banks  of  the  creek,  yet  they  were 
covered  with  a  thin  grass ;  and  the  fifty  or 
sixty  feet  which  formed  the  bottom  land  of 
the  little  stream  were  clothed  with  very  luxu- 
riant grass,  among  which  I  remarked  willow 
and  cherry  (cerasus  virginiana) ;  and  a 
quantity  of  gooseberry  and  currant  bushes 
occupied  the  greater  part. 

The  creek  was  three  or  four  feet  broad, 
and  about  six  inches  deep,  with  a  swift  cur- 
rent of  clear  water,  and  tolerably  cool.  We 
had  struck  it  too  low  down  t^  .1..J  the  cold 
water,  which  we  should  have  enjoyed  nearer 
to  its  sources.  At  2,  p.  m.,  the  barometer 
was  at  25.050,  the  attached  thermometer 
104°.  A  day  of  hot  sunshine,  with  clouds, 
and  moderate  breeze  from  the  south.  Con- 
tinuing down  the  stream,  in  about  four  miles 
we  reached  its  mouth,  at  one  of  the  main 
branches  of  Horse  creek.  Looking  back 
upon  the  ridge,  whose  direction  appeared  to 
be  a  little  to  the  north  of  east,  we  saw  it 
seamed  at  frequoa;  intervals  with  the  dark 


lines  of  wooded  streams,  nffluonta  of  tt*  river 
that  (lowed  so  far  as  we  could  see  along  its 
base.  We  crossed,  in  tlie  space  of  twelve 
miles  Irom  our  noon  halt,  three  or  four  forks 
of  Horse  creek,  and  encamped  at  sunset  on 
the  most  easterly. 

The  fork  on  which  we  encamped  appeared 
to  have  followed  an  easterly  direction  up  to 
this  place  ;  but  here  it  makes  a  very  sudden 
bend    to   the   north,   jiassing   between    two 
ranges  of  precipitous  hills,  called,  as  I  was 
informed,  Goshen's  hole.     There  is  some- 
where in  or  near  this  locality  a  place  so  call- 
ed, but  I  am  not  certain  that  it  was  the  place 
of  our  encampment.     Looking  back   upon 
the  spot,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles  to  the 
northward,  the  hills   appear  to  shut  in  the 
prairie,  through  which  runs  the  creek,  with 
a  semi-circular  sweep,  which  might  very  na- 
turally be  called  a  iiole  in  the  hills.     The 
geological  composition  of  the  ridge  is  the 
same  which  constitutes  the  rock  of  the  Court- 
house and  Chimney,  on  the  North  fork,  which 
appeared  to  me  a  continuation  of  this  ridge. 
The  winds  and  rains  work  this  formation  into 
a  variety  of  singular  forms.    The  pass  into 
Goshen  8  hole  is  about  two  miles  wide,  and 
the  hill  on  the  western  side  imitates,  in  an 
extraordinary  manner,  a  massive    fortified 
place,  with  a  remarkable  fulness  of  detail. 
The  rock  is  marl  and  earthy  lime.stone,  white, 
without  the  least  appearance  of  vegetation, 
and  much  resembles  masonry  at  a  little  dis- 
tance ;  and    here  it  sweeps  around   a  level 
area  two  or  three  hundred  yards  in  diameter, 
and  in  the  form  of  a  half  moon,  terminating 
on  either  extremity  in  enormous  bastions. 
Along  the  whole  line  of  the  parapets  appear 
domes   and  slender  minarets,  forty  or  fifty 
feet  high,  giving  it  every  appearance  of  an 
old  fortified  town.    On  the  waters  of  White 
river,  where  this  formation  exists  in  great 
extent,  it  presents  appearances  which  excite 
the  admiration  of  the  solitary  voyageur,  and 
form  a  frequent  theme  of  their  conversation 
when  speaking  of  the  wonders  of  the  coun- 
try.   Sometimes  it  offers  the  perfectly  illu- 
sive appearance  of  a  large  city,  with  nume- 
rous streets  and  magnificent  buildings,  among 
which  the  Canadians  never  fail  to  see  their 
cabaret ;  and  sometimes  it  takes  the  form  of 
a  solitary  house,  with  many  large  chambers, 
into  which  they  drive  their  horses  at  night, 
and  sleep  in  these  natural  defences  perfectly 
secure  from  any  attack  of  prowling  savagei}. 
Before  reaching  our  camp  at  Gostien's  hole, 
in  crossing  the  immense  detritus  at  the  foot 
of  the  Castle  rock,  we  were  involved  amidst 
winding  passages  cut  by  the  waters  of  the 
hill ;    and  wl*re,  with  a  breadth  scarcely 
large  enough  for  the  p.issage  of  a  horse,  the 
walls  rise  thirty  and  forty  feet  perpendicular- 
ly.   This  formation  supplies  the  discoloration 
of  the  Platte.    At  sunset,  the  height  of  the 


642. 

'iH.iiflliieiitsof  ttrt-  river 
ve  could  Hco  nioni,'  its 
n  llio  space  of  twelve 
lilt,  three  or  fonr  forks 
ncamped  at  sunset  on 

we  encamped  apponrod 
asterly  direction  up  to 
t  inaiics  a  very  sudden 
|iiissincr   between    two 
liills,  called,  as  I  was 
ole.     Tliere  is  sontie- 
tocality  a  place  so  call- 
in  that  it  was  the  place 
Looking  back   upon 
e  of  a  few  miles  to  the 
ppear  to  shut  in  the 
runs  the  creek,  with 
,  which  might  very  na- 
ule  in  the  hills.     The 
n  of  the  ridge  is  the 
B  the  rock  of  the  Courl- 
n  the  North  fork,  which 
linuation  of  this  ridge. 
iOrk  this  formation  into 
forms.     The  pass  into 
It  two  miles  wide,  and 
rn  side  imitates,  iu  an 
r,   a  massive    fortified 
able  fulness  of  detail, 
'arthy  limestone,  white, 
)earance  of  vegetation, 
masonry  at  a  little  dis- 
weeps  around   a  level 
dred  yards  in  diameter, 
half  moon,  terminating 
in  enormous  bastions, 
of  the  parapets  appear 
ninarets,  forty  or  fifty 
fvery  appearance  of  an 
n  the  waters  of  White 
nation  exists  in  great 
|)earances  which  excite 
solitary  voyageur,  and 
B  of  their  conversation 
'  wonders  of  the  coun- 
ifTers  the  perfectly  illu- 
large  cDy,  with  nume- 
ficcnt  buildings,  among 
never  fail  to  see  their 
es  it  takes  the  form  of 
many  large  chambers, 
!  their  horses  at  night, 
;ural  defences  perfectly 
k  of  prowling  eavagen. 
:amp  at  Goshen's  hole, 
nse  detritus  at  the  foot 
B  were  involved  amidst 
t  by  the  waters  of  the 
h  a  breadth  scarcely 
passage  of  a  horse,  the 
orty  feet  perpendicular- 
ippliea  the  discoloration 
neet,  the  height  of  the 


1843.] 


CAl'T.  FREMONT'S  NAUUATIVE. 


M 


■Mi^'l 


mercurial  column  \\n.n  25.600,  the  attached 
thermometer  80°,  and  wind  moderute  frmn 
S.  38"  E.  ( Hoiidn  covered  the  sky  with  the 
nse  of  the  moon,  but  I  succcet'ed  in  obtain- 
ing the  usual  at<trononiical  observation!), 
which  jiiaced  us  in  latitude  41°  40'  13",a'"l 
longitude  104°  'J4'  HO". 

July  15. — At  0  thift  morning,  the  barome- 
ter was  at  25.515,  the  thermometer  1'2°  ;  the 
day  was  line,  with  some  clouds  looking  dark 
on  llic  south,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  the 
same  quarter.  We  found  that  in  our  jour- 
ney across  the  country  we  had  kept  too 
much  to  the  eantward.  'J'his  morning,  accord- 
ingly, wo  travelled  by  compass  gome  16  or 
20  to  the  west  of  north,  and  struck  the 
Platte  some  thirteen  miles  IxjIow  Fort  Lara- 
mie. The  d.iy  was  extremely  hot,  and 
among  tiie  hills  the  wind  seemed  to  have 
just  i8.sued  from  an  oven.  Our  horses  were 
much  distressed,  a.s  we  had  travelled  hard ; 
and  it  was  with  some  ditficulty  that  they 
were  all  brought  to  the  Platte ;  which  we 
reached  at  1  o'clock.  In  riding  in  towards 
the  river,  we  found  the  trail  of  our  carts, 
which  ap{)eared  to  have  passed  ^  day  or  two 
since. 

After  having  allowed  our  animals  two 
hours  for  food  and  repose,  we  resumed  our 
journey,  and  towards  the  close  of  the  day 
came  in  sight  of  Laramie's  fork.  Issuing 
from  the  .river  hills,  we  came  first  in  view  of 
Fort  Platte,  a  po?t  belonging  to  Messrs.  Sy- 
bille,  Adams  &.  Co.,  situatea  immediately  u\ 
the  point  of  land  at  the  junction  of  Laramie 
with  the  Platte.  Like  the  post  we  had  visited 
on  the  South  fork,  it  was  built  of  earth,  and 
still  unfinitihed,  being  enclosed  with  walls 
(or  rather  houses)  on  three  of  the  sides,  and 
open  on  the  fourth  to  the  river.  A  few  hun- 
dred yards  brought  us  in  view  of  the  post  of 
the  American  Fur  Company,  called  Fort 
John,  or  Laramie.  This  was  a  large  post, 
having  more  the  air  of  military  construction 
than  the  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  It 
is  on  the  left  bank,  on  a  rising  ground  some 
twenty-five  feet  above  the  water;  and  its 
lofty  walls,  whitewashed  and  piclveted,  with 
the  large  bastions  at  the  angles,  gave  it  quite 
an  imposing  appearance  in  the  uncertain 
light  of  evening.  A  cluster  of  lodges,  which 
the  language  told  us  belonged  to  bioux  Indi- 
ans, was  pitched  under  the  walls,  and,  with 
the  fine  back  ground  of  the  Black  hills  and 
the  prominent  peak  of  Laramie  mountain, 
strongly  drawn  in  the  clear  light  of  the  west- 
em  sky,  where  the  sun  had  already  set,  the 
whole  formed  at  the  moment  a  strikingly 
beautiful  picture.  From  the  company  at  St. 
Louis  I  had  letters  for  Mr.  Boudeau,  the 
gentleman  in  charge  of  the  post,  by  whom  I 
was  received  with  great  hospitality  and  an 
efficient  kindness,  which  was  invaluable  to 
me  during  my  stay  in  the  country.    I  found 


our  pcojilo  encnniped  <in  the  liai  *,  a  short 
disluiice  iibuvo  the  fort.  All  were  well: 
and,  iu  tlie  enjoyment  ol  a  buunlilul  supper, 
wliicli  colli'e  and  breiid  made  luxurious  to  us, 
we  soon  forgot  the  fatigues  of  the  lii.it  ten 
days. 

July  10. — I  found  that,  during  my  abnence, 
the  siluaiion  cf  all'airs  hud  undergone  some 
change ;  and  the  usual  quiet  and  H.jmewh»t 
monotonous  regularity  of  the  camp  liiid  given 
place  to  excitement  and  alarm.  Tl](!  cir- 
cumstances which  occasioned  this  cliango 
will  be  toinid  narrated  in  the  following  ex- 
tract from  the  journal  of  Mr.  Preuss,  wiiich 
conmienees  with  the  day  of  our  separation 
on  the  South  fork  of  the  I'lattc. 

Extract  from  the  journal  of  Mr.  I'rcuss. 

■'July  6. — We  crossed  the  plateau  or  high- 
land between  the  two  forks  in  about  six 
hours.  I  let  my  horse  go  as  slow  as  he 
liked,  to  induuuiil'y  us  both  for  the  previous 
hardship;  and  about  noon  we  reached  the 
North  fork.  There  was  no  sign  that  our 
p'lrly  had  passed ;  we  rode,  therefore,  to 
some  pine  trees,  unsaddled  the  horses,  and 
stretched  our  limbs  on  the  grass,  awaiting 
the  arrival  of  our  company.  After  remain- 
ing here  two  hours,  my  companion  bccaino 
impatient,  mounted  his  horse  again,  and  rode 
oil"  down  the  river  to  see  if  he  could  discover 
our  people.  I  felt  so  marode  yet,  that  it  was 
a  horrible  idea  to  me  to  bestride  that  saddle 
again  ;  so  I  lay  still.  I  knew  they  could  not 
come  any  other  way,  and  then  my  compa- 
nion, one  of  the  best  men  of  the  company, 
would  not  abandon  me.  The  sun  went 
down ;  he  did  not  come.  Uneasy  I  did  not 
feel,  but  very  hungry ;  I  had  no  provisions, 
but  1  could  make  a  fire ;  and  as  I  espied  two 
doves  in  a  tree,  I  tried  to  kill  one ;  but  it 
needs  a  better  marksman  than  myself  to  kill 
a  little  bird  with  a  rifle.  I  made  a  large 
fire,  however,  lighted  my  pipe — this  true 
friend  of  mine  in  every  emergency — lay 
down,  and  let  my  thoughts  wander  to  the  far 
east.  It  was  not  many  min'-'°s  after  when 
I  heard  the  tramp  of  a  horse,  and  my  faithful 
companion  was  by  my  side.  He  had  found 
the  party,  who  had  been  delayed  by  making 
their  caclie,  about  seven  miles  below.  To 
the  good  supper  which  he  brought  with  him 
I  did  ample  justice.  He  had  forgotten  salt, 
and  I  tried  the  soldier's  substitute  in  time  of 
war,  and  used  gunpowder ;  but  it  answered 
badly — bitter  enough,  but  no  flavor  of  kitchen 
salt.  I  slept  well ;  and  was  only  disturbed 
by  two  owls,  which  were  attracted  by  the 
fire,  and  took  their  place  in  the  tree  under 
which  we  slept.  Their  music  seemed  aa 
disagreeable  to  my  companion  as  to  myself ; 
he  fired  his  rifle  twice,  and  then  they  let  ui 
alone. 


34 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE, 


11843 


"Jimjl. — At  about  10  o'clock,  tho  parly 
arrived;  iiml  we  (•(intiiiufd  our  jouriioy 
ttirou|rli  a  country  wliicli  ollbrcd  but  littlo  to 
intcrutit  tlie  traveller.  The  Hoil  was  much 
more  sandy  than  in  the  valley  below  tho  con- 
iluencu  lit  the  fiirks,  and  tho  I'acu  of  the 
country  no  longer  proHented  tho  refreshing 
creon  which  had  hitherto  characterized  it. 
Tiie  rich  jrrasB  was  now  found  only  in  diit- 
pcrsed  f>putH,  on  low  ^roundfl,  and  on  tho 
Dottom  land  of  the  Btrcainn.  A  long  drought, 
joined  to  extreme  heat,  had  no  parched  up 
tho  upper  prairies,  that  they  were  in  many 
places  Imld,  or  covered  only  with  a  thin 
growth  of  yellow  and  jioor  grass.  The  na- 
ture of  the  soil  renders  it  extremely  suscep- 
tible to  the  vicissitudes  of  the  climate.  Be- 
tween the  forks,  and  from  their  junction  to 
the  Ulack  hills,  the  formation  consists  of 
marl  and  a  soft  earthy  limestone,  with  grani- 
tic sandstone.  Such  a  formation  cannot  give 
rise  to  a  sterile  soil ;  and,  on  our  return  in 
September,  whi:.  the  country  had  been  wa- 
tered by  lre(Hient  rains,  the  valley  of  the 
Platte  looked  like  a  garden ;  so  rich  was  the 
verdure  of  the  grasses,  and  so  luxuriant  the 
bloom  of  abundant  flowers.  The  wild  sage 
begins  to  make  its  appearance,  and  timber 
is  so  scarce  that  we  generally  made  our  fires 
5f  the  biiis  (k  vaclw.  With  the  exception  of 
now  and  then  an  isolated  tree  or  two,  stand- 
ing like  a  light-house  on  the  river  bank, 
there  is  none  whatever  to  be  seen. 

"  July  8. — Our  road  to-day  was  a  solitary 
one.  No  game  made  its  appearance — not 
even  a  buliiilo  or  a  strav  antelope;  and 
nothing  occuned  to  break  the  monotony 
until  about  6  o'clock,  when  tlie  caravan 
made  a  sudden  halt.  There  was  a  galloping 
in  of  scouts  and  horsemen  from  every  side — 
a  hurrying  to  and  fro  in  noisy  confusion ; 
rifles  were  taken  from  their  cover;  bullet 
pouches  examined :  in  short,  there  was  the 
cry  of  '  Indians,'  heard  again.  I  had  be- 
come BO  much  accustomed  to  these  alarm?, 
that  now  they  made  but  little  impression  (  i 
me ;  and  before  I  had  time  to  become  excitetl, 
tlie  new  comers  were  ascertained  to  be 
whites.  It  was  a  large  party  of  traders  and 
trappers,  conducted  by  IVTr.  Bridger,  a  man 
well  known  in  tho  history  of  the  country. 
As  the  sun  was  low,  and  there  was  a  fine 
grass  patch  not  far  ahead,  they  turned  back 
and  encamped  for  the  night  with  us.  Mr. 
Bridger  was  invited  to  supper ;  and,  after  the 
table  chth  was  removed,  we  listened  with 
eager  interest  to  an  account  of  their  adven- 
tures. What  they  had  met,  we  would  be 
likely  to  encounter ;  the  chances  which  had 
befallen  them,  would  probably  happen  to  us ; 
and  we  looked  upon  their  life  as  a  picture 
of  our  own.  He  informed  us  that  the  con- 
dition of  the  country  had  become  exceeding- 
Ij  dangerous.    The  Sioux,  who  had  been 


badly  disposed,  had  broken  out  into  open 
hostility,  and  in  tho  preRcilirig  autumn  hii 
party  had  encountered  thcui  in  .'i  hi'vcre  en- 
gagement, in  which  a  nuu>l>er  of  lives  had 
been  lost  on  both  sides.  United  with  tlio 
Cheyenne  and  (Iros  Ventre  liiilians,  Uiey 
were  scouring  the  upper  country  in  war  par- 
tics  of  great  force,  and  were  at  this  time  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Red  Uutlrs,  a  fa- 
mous landmark,  which  was  dirert'y  on  our 
path.  They  had  declared  war  upon  every 
iivingthing  which  should  be  found  westwara 
of  that  point ;  though  their  main  object  waa 
to  attack  a  large  camp  of  whites  and  Snake 
Indians,  who  had  a  rendezvous  in  the  Sweet 
Water  valley.  Availing  himself  of  his  inti- 
mate knowledge  of  the  country,  he  liEul 
reached  Laramie  byan  unusual  route  tliruugh 
tho  Black  hills,  and  avoided  coming  into 
contact  with  any  of  the  scattered  parties. 
This  gentleman  ollercd  his  services  to  ac- 
company us  so  far  as  the  head  of  the  Sweet 
Water ;  but  the  absence  of  our  leader,  which 
was  deeply  regretted  by  us  all,  rendered  it 
impossible  for  us  to  enter  upon  such  ar- 
rangements. In  a  camp  consisting  of  men 
whose  lives  had  been  spent  in  this  country, 
I  expected  to  tind  every  one  prepared  for  oc- 
currences of  this  nature  ;  but,  to  my  great 
surprise,  I  found,  on  tho  contrary,  that  this 
news  had  thrown  them  all  into  the  greatest 
consternation ;  and,  on  every  side,  1  heard 
only  one  exclamation, '  //  n'yaura  jias  tie  vie 
pour  nous.'  All  tho  night,  scattered  groups 
were  assembled  around  tho  fires,  smoking 
their  pipes,  and  listening  with  the  greatest 
eagerness  to  exaggerated  details  of  Indian 
hostilities ;  and  in  the  morning  I  found  the 
camp  dispirited,  and  agitated  by  a  variety  of 
conflicting  opinions.  A  majority  of  the  peo- 
ple were  strongly  disposed  to  return;  but 
Cl6ment  Lambert,  with  some  five  or  six  oth- 
ers, professed  their  determination  to  follow 
Mr.  Fremont  to  the  uttermost  limit  of  his 
journey.  Tlie  others  yielded  to  thoir  re- 
monstrances, and,  somewhat  ashamed  of 
their  cowardice,  concluded  to  advance  at 
least  so  far  as  Laramie  fork,  eastward  of 
which  they  were  aware  no  danger  was  to  be 
apprehended.  Notwithstanding  the  confu- 
sion and  excitement,  we  were  very  early  on 
the  road,  as  tlie  days  were  extremely  hot, 
and  we  were  anxious  to  profit  by  the  fresh- 
ness of  the  morning.  The  soft  marly  form- 
ation, over  which  we  were  now  journeying, 
frequently  oflers  to  the  traveller  views  of  re- 
markable and  picturesque  beauty.  To  seve- 
ral of  these  localities,  where  the  winds  and 
the  rain  have  worked  the  blufls  into  curious 
shapes,  the  voyageurs  have  given  names  ac- 
cording to  some  fancied  resemblance.  One 
of  thest;.  called  tlie  Court-house,  we  passed 
about  six  miles  from  our  encampment  of  last 
night,  and  toward  noon  came  in  eight  of  th« 


-«•»« 


# 


» 


[1843 

broken  out   into  open 

)irecc(liii(,'  autumn  hii 
(I  tlieni  in  n  hcvi're  en- 
a  nunilK'T  of  lives  had 
idi'H.     United  with  tlio 

Ventre  Indians,  Uiey 
iper  country  in  war  par- 
\d  weri!  at  this  time  in 

the  Red  IJuWn,  a  fa- 
ch  was  direct'y  on  our 
clarcd  war  upon  every 
)uld  be  I'uund  westward 
I  their  main  object  was 
ip  of  whites  and  Snake 

ndozvous  in  tlio  Sweet 
lin^r  himself  of  his  inti- 

the  country,  he  had 
n  unusual  route  tliruugh 

avoided  coming  into 

the  scattered  parties. 

red  liis  services  to  ac- 

the  head  of  tlie  Sweet 

Kc  of  our  leader,  which 

I  by  us  all,  rendered  it 
enter  upon  such  ar- 

imp  consisting  of  men 

II  spent  in  this  country, 
ry  one  prepared  for  oc» 
ture  -,  but,  to  my  great 

the  contrary,  that  this 
m  all  into  the  greatest 
on  every  side,  1  heard 
, '  11  ii'yanrii  juis  dc  vie 
night,  scattered  groups 
und  the  tires,  smoking 
ining  with  the  greatest 
rated  details  ot  Indian 
e  morning  I  found  the 
agitated  by  a  variety  of 

A  majority  of  the  peo- 
isposed  to  return ;  but 
ith  some  live  or  six  oth« 
ieterinination  to  follow 

uttermost  limit  of  his 
rs  yielded  to  their  re- 
lomewhat  ashamed  of 
icluded  to  advance  at 
amie  fork,  eastward  of 
ire  no  danger  was  to  be 
ithstanding  the  confu- 

we  were  very  early  on 
ys  were  extremely  hot, 
8  to  profit  by  the  fresb- 
The  soft  marly  form' 
!  were  now  journeying, 
le  traveller  views  of  re- 
isque  beauty.  To  seve- 
s,  where  the  winds  and 
i  tiie  blufts  into  curious 
'8  have  given  names  ac- 
ied  resemblance.  One 
Court-house,  we  paaaed 
our  encampment  of  laal 
on  came  in  eight  of  til* 


1342.] 


CAPT.  FREM')NT'a  NARRATIVE. 


celebrated  Chimiifi/  rort.  It  looks,  at  (hip 
distance  of  about  thirty  miles,  like  what  i.  '. 
called — till)  long  chiuuiey  of  a  steam  fin'tory 
establishment,  or  a  slmt  tower  in  liultiniore. 
Nothing  occurred  to  inter-upt  the  quiet  of 
the  day,  and  wc  enciui.ped  on  the  river,  after 
a  march  of  twenty-four  miles.  Itiitlalo  had 
become  very  scurc.i!,  und  but  one  cow  had 
been  killed,  of  which  the  meat  had  been  cut 
into  thin  nliceii.  and  hung  around  the  carts 
to  dry 

'^  Julij  10. — Wo  continued  alongthe  same 
fine  phinily  beaten  road,  which  the  smooth 
surface  of  the  country  aiforded  us,  for  a  dis- 
tance of  six  hundred  and  thirty  miles,  from 
'^•D  frontiers  of  Missouri  to  the  Laramie  fork. 
In  the  course  of  the  day  we  met  some  whites, 
who  were  following  along  in  the  train  of 
Mr.  Hridger ;  and,  after  a  day's  journey  of 
twenty-four  miles,  encamped  about  sunset  at 
tlio  Cliimney  rock.  It  consists  of  marl  and 
earthy  limestone,  and  the  weather  is  rapidly 
diminishing  its  height,  which  is  now  not 
more  than  two  hundred  feet  above  the  river. 
Travellers  who  visited  it  some  years  since 
placed  its  height  at  upwards  of  500  feet. 

"  July  11.— The  valley  of  the  North  fork 
is  of  a  variable  breadth,  from  one  to  four, 
and  sometimes  six  miles.  Fifteen  miles 
from  the  Chimney  rock  we  reached  one  of 
those  places  where  the  river  strikes  the 
bluffs,  and  forces  the  road  to  make  a  con- 
siderable circuit  over  the  uplands.  This 
presented  an  escarpment  on  the  river  of  about 
nine  hundred  yards  in  length,  and  is  fami- 
liarly known  as  Scott's  bluffs.  We  had 
made  a  journey  of  thirty  miles  before  we 
again  struck  the  river,  at  a  place  where 
some  scanty  grass  afforded  an  insuf^cient 
pasturage  to  our  animals.  About  twenty 
miles  from  the  Chimney  rock  we  had  found 
a  very  beautiful  spring  of  excellent  and  cold 
water ;  but  it  was  in  such  a  deep  ravine,  and 
80  small,  that  the  animals  could  not  profit  by 
it,  and  we  therefore  halted  only  a  few  min- 
utes, and  found  a  resting  place  ten  miles 
further  on.  The  plain  between  Scott's  bluffs 
and  Chimney  rock  was  almost  entirely  co- 
vered with  drift  wood,  consisting  principally 
of  cedar,  which  we  were  informed,  had  been 
supplied  from  the  Black  hills,  in  a  flood  five 
or  six  years  since. 

"July  12. — Nine  miles  from  our  encamp- 
ment of  yesterday  we  crossed  Horse  creek, 
a  shallow  stream  of  clear  water,  about  se- 
venty yards  wide,  falling  into  the  Platte  on 
the  right  bank.  It  was  lightlv  timbered, 
and  great  quantities  of  drift  wood  were  piled 
up  on  the  banks,  appearing  to  be  supplied 
by  the  creek  from  above.  After  a  journey 
of  twenty-six  miles,  we  encamped  on  a  rich 
bottom,  which  afforded  fine  grass  to  our  ani- 
mals. Buffalo  have  entirely  disappeared, 
and  we  live  cow  upon  the  dried  meat,  wlucb 


is  exceedingly  poor  food.  Tlin  mnrl  nnd 
earthy  limestone,  which  coiislitulcd  the 
I'ormalion  for  neveral  days  pa-il,  had  changed 
during  tlio  day  into  a  coin|iact  white  or  i»'ey- 
ish  wiiito  limestone,  sonietiuics  containing 
liornstiiuo ;  and  at  the  place  of  our  eticanip- 
ini'nt  this  evening,  some  stnta  in  the  river 
hills  cropped  out  to  the  heii.'ht  of  thirty  or 
forty  feet,  consisting  of  a  tine-grained  gra- 
nitic samlstone  ;  one  of  the  strata  closely 
resembling  gneiss. 

"  July  \3. — To-day,  about  4  o'clock,  we 
reached  Fort  Laramie,  where  we  were  cor- 
dially received;  wo  pitched  our  camp  a  lit- 
tle above  the  fort,  on  the  bank  of  the  Lara- 
mie river,  ii.  which  the  pure  and  clear  water 
of  the  mountain  stream  looked  reireshingly 
cool,  and  made  a  pleasant  contrast  to  the 
muddy,  yellow  waters  of  the  Platte." 

I  walked  up  to  visit  our  friends  at  the  fort, 
which  is  a  quadrangular  structure,  built  of 
clay,  after  the  fashion  of  the  Mexicans,  who 
are  generally  employed  in  building  them 
The  walls  are  about  fifteen  feet  high,  sur- 
mounted with  a  wooden  palisade,  and  form  a 
portion  of  ranges  of  houses,  which  entirely 
surround  a  yard  of  about  one  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  square.  Every  apartment  has  its 
door  and  v/indow — all,  of  course,  opening  on 
the  inside.  There  arc  two  entrances,  oppo- 
site each  other,  and  midway  the  wall,  one 
of  which  is  a  large  and  public  entrance ;  the 
other  smaller  and  more  private — a  sort  of 
postern  gate.  Over  the  great  entrance  is  a 
square  tower  with  loopholes,  and,  like  the 
rest  of  the  work,  built  of  earth.  At  two  of 
the  angles,  and  diagonally  opposite  each 
other,  are  large  square  bastions,  so  arranged 
as  to  sweep  the  four  faces  of  the  walls. 

This  post  belongs  to  the  American  Fur 
Company,  and,  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  was 
in  charge  of  Mr.  Boudeau.  Two  of  the 
company's  clerks,  Messrs.  Galpin  and  Kel- 
logg, were  with  him,  and  he  had  in  the  fort 
alx)ut  sixteen  men.  As  usual,  these  had 
found  wives  among  the  Indian  squaws ;  and, 
with  the  usual  accompaniment  of  children, 
the  place  had  quite  a  populous  appearance. 
It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say,  that  the  object 
of  the  establishment  is  trade  with  the  neigh- 
boring tribes,  wi.' ,  in  the  course  of  the  year, 
generally  make  two  or  three  visits  to  the 
fort.  In  addition  to  this,  traders,  with  a 
small  outfit,  are  constantly  kept  amongst 
them.  The  articles  of  trade  consist,  on  the 
one  side,  almost  entirely  of  buffalo  robes ; 
and,  on  the  other,  of  blankets,  calicoes, 
guns,  powder  and  lead,  with  such  cheap  or- 
naments as  glass  beads,  uoking-glasses, 
rings,  vermilion  for  painting,  tobacco,  and 
principally,  and  in  spite  of  the  prohibition,  of 
spirits,  brought  into  the  country  in  the  form 
of  alcohol,  and  diluted  with  water  before 
sold.    While  mentioning  this  fact,  it  is  but 


m  -^Sr 


36 


CAl'T.  FllHMON  rs  NARRATIVE. 


[1843 


iiiHlico  to  the  Americfuv  Fur  C'uiii|)niiy  Id 
Btuto,  llml,  tliroiitrhoul  tlio  country,  I  liavf 
alwuys  fo.iiiil  tlictn  HtroinoiiHly  (i|)[x)hi>(I  tc 
tlio  inlriKliu'li.Mi  of  8|>iritiio',ii)  li(|iior;<.  Itiit, 
in  tlif  jireKciil  t.tiitp  nf  tlilajrc,  when  (he  coun- 
try JH  Mi|i|ilit'd  Willi  ak'oiiol,  when  a  kej;  of  it 
will  |niri'huHO  troMi  an  InJiun  cvi'rythinj;  lie 
poriserxes — hirt  I'liPH,  hiH  lo(l(;o,  Ins  hori<en, 
and  even  liii  wife  and  children — nnd  when 
any  van:ib<)nd  who  haa  money  enoni^'h  to 
purrliuKU  a  mule  can  ^'o  into  a  village  and 
trade  n^ami't  then\  tjuccerisriilly,  without 
withdrawinjj  entir(dy  Ironi  the  trade,  it  in 
iinpoHsilile  fur  them  to  discontinue  il."  uhc. 
In  their  opposition  to  thin  practice,  the  com- 
pany is  Hiii-tained,  not  only  hy  their  ohli(,'a- 
tion  to  the  lawH  of  ihe  country  and  the  wel- 
fare of  the  IndlanH,  hut  clearly,  rIhm,  on 
grounds  of  policy  ;  lor,  with  heavy  and  ex- 
pensive oiittitH,  they  contend  at  inanifcBtly 
creat  disaiKanta^'e  against  the  ninnerous  in- 
dependent and  unlicensed  traders,  wlio  enter 
the  country  from  various  avenues,  from  the 
Unitetl  States  ami  from  Mexico,  having  no 
other  stock  in  trade  tiian  nomo  kegs  of  li- 
quor, which  they  sell  at  the  modest  price  of 
thirty-six  dollars  per  gallon.  Tlie  ditl'erence 
between  the  regidar  trader  and  the  aiureur 
(les  h"is  (as  th«  French  call  the  itinerant  or 
peddling  traders),  with  respect  to  the  sale 
of  Bnirits,  is  here,  as  it  always  lias  been, 
fixed  and  i)ermancnt,  and  growing  out  of  the 
nature  of  their  trade,  'i'lio  regular  trader 
looks  ahead,  and  has  an  interest  in  tho  pre- 
Bervation  of  the  Indians,  and  in  the  regular 
pursui*  of  their  business,  and  the  preserva- 
tion of  their  arms,  horses,  and  everything 
necessary  k>  their  future  and  permanent  suc- 
cess in  hunting:  the  courcur  des  bois  has  no 
permanent  interest,  and  gets  what  he  can, 
and  for  what  ,ie  can,  from  every  Indian  lie 
meets,  even  nt  the  risk  of  disabling  him 
from  doing  anything  more  at  hunting. 

TJie  fort  had  i.  very  cool  and  clean  appear- 
ance. The  grea  entrance,  in  which  I  found 
the  gentlemen  assembled,  and  which  was 
floored,  and  abou  lifteen  feet  long,  made  a 
pleasant,  shaded  seat,  through  which  the 
breeze  swept  cons  antly  ;  lor  this  country  is 
famous  for  high  A'inds.  In  the  course  of 
conversation,  I  learned  the  following  parti- 
culars, which  will  explain  the  condition  of 
the  country  :  For  several  years  the  Chey- 
ennen  and  Sioux  had  gradually  become  more 
and  more  hostile  to  the  whites,  and  in  the 
latter  pari  of  August,  1841,  had  had  a  rather 
severe  engagement  with  a-  party  of  sixty 
men,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Frapp,  of 
St.  Louis.  The  Indians  lost  eight  or  ten 
warriors,  and  the  whites  had  their  leader  and 
four  men  killed.  This  fight  took  place  on 
the  waters  of  Snake  river ;  and  it  was  this 
party,  on  their  return  under  Mr.  Bridger, 
which  had  spread  bo  much  alarm  among  my 


jicopN'.  Fn  the  course  of  the  fpring,  two 
other  small  jiarties  had  been  cut  oil'  by  the 
S\ii\i\ — one  on  their  relurn  Irum  the  ("row 
nation,  and  the  other  among  Ihe  lllack  hills. 
The  emigriinls  to  ()re).;.iii  and  Mr.  Kridgor'g 
ptirly  met  here,  a  few  days  betore  our  arri- 
val. Divisions  and  misuiiiliTHtanilings  had 
grown  up  among  them  ;  llicy  were  already 
souii;wliat  disheartened  by  tlii!  liitigiio  of 
their  long  iind  wearisome  journey,  and  tho 
feet  of  their  cattle  Imd  iM'iome  so  niuch 
Worn  as  to  bo  scarcely  able  to  travel.  In 
this  situation,  they  were  not  likely  to  find 
encouragement  in  the  hostile  attitude  of  tho 
Indians,  and  the  new  and  unexpected  diffi- 
culties which  sprang  up  InMoro  them.  Thoy 
were  told  that  the  country  was  entirely 
swcjit  of  grass,  and  that  lew  or  no  bufliilo 
were  to  be  found  on  their  line  of  route  ;  and, 
with  their  weakened  animals,  it  would  be 
im|)ossible  for  them  to  trans|H;rt  their  heavy 
wagons  over  the  mountains.  Under  these 
circumstances,  they  disposed  of  their  wagons 
and  cattle  nt  the  forts;  selling  them  at  the 
prices  they  had  paid  in  the  SStates,  and  tak- 
ing in  exchange  cofleoand  sugar  at  one  dol- 
lar a  |K)iiiid,  and  miserable  worn-out  horses, 
which  died  before  they  rea'-hed  Ihe  moun- 
tains. Mr.  Uoudeau  informed  me  that  he 
had  purchased  thirty,  and  U'c  lower  fort 
eighty  head  of  lino  cattle,  some  of  them  of 
the  IJurham  breed.  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  whoso 
name  and  high  reputation  arc  familiar  to  all 
who  interest  themselves  in  the  history  of 
this  country,  had  reached  Laramie  in  com- 
pany with  Mr.  Bridger  ;  and  the  emigrants 
were  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  his  services 
to  guide  them  as  far  as  the  British  ptist  of 
Fort  Hall,  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
beyond  the  South  Pass  of  the  mountains. 
They  had  started  for  this  post  on  the  4th  of 
July,  and  immediately  after  their  departure, 
a  war  party  of  three  hundred  and  fifty 
braves  set  out  upon  their  trail.  As  their 
principal  chief  or  partisan  had  lost  some  re- 
lations in  the  recent  fight,  and  had  sworn  to 
kill  the  first  whites  on  his  path,  it  was  sup- 
posed that  their  intention  was  to  attack  the 
party,  should  a  favorable  opportunity  oflier; 
or,  if  they  were  foiled  in  their  principal  ob- 
ject by  tho  vigilance  of  i\Ir.  Fitzpatrick,  con- 
tent themselves  with  stealing  horses  and 
cutting  oil'  stragglers.  These  had  been  gone 
but  a  lew  days  previous  to  our  arrival. 

The  clFect  of  the  engagement  with  Mr. 
Frapp  had  been  greitly  to  irritate  the  hostile 
spirit  of  the  savages ;  and  immediately  sub- 
sequent to  that  event,  the  Gross  Ventre  In- 
dians had  united  with  the  Oglaliahs  and 
Cheyennes,  and  taken  the  field  in  great 
force — so  far  as  I  could  ascertain,  to  the 
amount  of  eight  hundred  lodges,  'i'lieir  ob- 
ject was  to  make  an  attack  on  ii  carnp  of 
Snake  and  Crow  Indians,  and  a  body  of 


,jP**»^ 


[1849 

I'  (if  llic  Hpriiij;,  two 

III  Im'cii  <'iit  oil  liy  the 
r  ri'tiirri  Irmii  tin'  <  'row 
iiiiii>ii);  till'  lllack  hillH. 
■I'yuii  iiiid  Mr.  Uridfjpr'g 
w  (liiy"  liiMiiro  our  iirrl- 
liiii4iiliilrrHt:iniliii).'H  liiul 
I'lii ;  llicy  werr  iilfcady 
iK'd  liy  tlic  lUtitflK!  of 
•iKDiiiP  joiiriicy,  iiiiil  tiio 

linil  Im'ciiiih'  ko  iiiuch 
[•oly  iilili-  Id  Inivol.  in 
were  not  likfly  to  find 
ii>  liosiik'  utliiiidc  of  tho 
w  nrul  iiiioxpi'itcd  diffi- 
■  lip  iH'foru  llu'iii.    They 

country  \vii«  entirely 
thitt  lew  or  no  biifltilo 
their  line  ol  route  ;  and, 
d  animals,  it  would  be 

10  truntijMjrt  their  heavy 
iiintains.  Under  thcHO 
di.s|)used  of  their  wagons 
ts;  t*ellin)r  them  at  the 

in  the  StateK,  iiiid  tak- 
ee  and  Hu^riir  at  one  dol- 
!erable  wurn-oiit  horscH, 
ley  reii'licd   the   tnoun- 

11  intoniied  tnc  that  he 
ty,  and  \)\c  lower  fort 
cattle,  Home  of  them  of 

Mr.  Fitzputrick,  whooe 
tation  arc  familiar  to  all 
iclvea  in  the  histtiry  of 
!achcd  Laramie  in  com- 
jTor  ;  and  the  emi<rrants 
^\\  to  obtain  hia  services 
ir  as  the  UritiHh  pimt  of 
)  hundred  and  tifty  miles 
Pass  of  the  mountains, 
r  this  post  on  the  4th  of 
cly  after  their  departure, 
irce  imndred  and  fifty 
n  their  trail.  As  their 
irtisan  had  lost  some  ro- 

tight,  and  had  sworn  to 
on  his  path,  it  was  sup- 
ntion  was  to  attack  the 
orable  opportunity  offer ; 
led  in  their  principal  ob- 
i  of  Mr.  FitzpatricK,  con- 
ith  stealing  hori^es  and 
8.  These  had  Iwen  (ifone 
ious  to  our  arrival. 
!  engagement  with  Mr. 
itly  to  irritate  the  hostile 
i ;  and  immediately  sub- 
it,  the  Gross  Ventre  In- 
with  the  Ogiallahs  and 
ken  the  field  in  great 
could  ascertain,  to  tho 
idred  lodges.  Their  ob- 
vn  attack  on  ii  camp  of 
Indians,  and  a  body  of 


I 


1843. 


VM'T.  FRKMONT'8  N.MIH.VTIVK 


alx)ii.  o'le  liMiiilrrd  whilex,  who  had  made  a 
ri'iiili'/.voii.s  Hiiiui'«lii'ri'  ill  llie  (Jrei'ii  rivi'r 
viillcv,  or  on  the  Sweet  Waler.  Aller 
«|ii>iiiliMir  Hoiiii'  lime  ill  liiilllilo  laiiiiiiig  ill  llie 
lli'i);liliorlioiid  of  the  .Meiliriiic  How  iiioiiii-  | 
tiiiii,  lliey  were  to  croHn  over  to  llie  (Jreeii 
river  walern,  and  return  lo  l.nraiiiie  by  way 
of  the  South  I'liSM  anil  llie  Sweet  Waler  val- 
ley. .Vecnriliiij^r  to  the  lulciilulion  ot  llie  lii- 
diaiiit,  Mr.  Uuudeau  iiiformed  mo  they  were 
piiinewhere  ,iear  tlu'  head  of  the  Sweet 
Water.  I  hiil)se(|iii'iitly  learned  tli.it  the 
nartv  led  by  .Mr,  Fit/patriek  were  overtaken 
liy  tlieir  nursuerH  near  Roek  liidepeiideiK'e, 
ill  the  vai  oy  of  tlio  Swh'I  Waler;  but  hi.i 
skill  and  resolution  saved  them  Irom  sur- 
prise, and,  hiiiall  as  his  force  was,  they  <lid 
nut  venture  to  attack  him  o|i"nly.  llere 
Iliey  li'>t  one  of  their  party  by  an  accident, 
ami,  continuing  up  the  valley,  they  came 
suddenly  upon  the  largo  village.  Fioin 
those  they  met  with  a  doubtful  reception. 
!-'")g  re.-iiilenco  and  familiar  lu'iiuaiiilance 
Mad  given  to  Mr.  Fitzjiatrick  great  per.ioiml 
iiilluenee  among  them,  and  a  portion  of  them 
were  disjiosed  to  lot  him  pasi.  quietly ;  but 
by  far  the  greater  number  were  inc."iied  to 
hostile  iiKMLsurcs  ;  and  the  chicia  s|)cnt  tho 
whole  of  (jiio  night,  during  which  they  kept 
tho  little  party  in  the  mid.st  of  them,  in 
council,  debating  tho  question  .if  attacking 
them  the  next  day  ;  but  the  influence  of 
'•  tho  Broken  Hand,"  as  they  called  .Mr.  Fitz- 
patrick  (one  of  his  hands  having  been  shat- 
tered by  the  bursting  of  a  gun),  at  length 
prevailed,  and  obtained  for  them  an  unmo- 
lested pas.-<age  ;  but  they  sternly  assured 
him  that  this  path  was  no  longer  open,  and 
that  any  party  of  whites  which  should  hero- 
after  lie  found  upon  it  would  meet  with  cer- 
tain destruction.  From  all  that  I  have  been 
able  to  learn,  1  have  no  doubt  that  the  emi- 
grants owe  their  lives  to  Mr.  Filzpatrick. 

Thus  it  would  appear  that  the  country 
was  swarming  with  scattered  war  parties; 
and  when  I  heard,  during  the  day,  tlio  vari- 
ous contradictory  and  exaggerated  rumors 
which  were  incessantly  repealed  to  them,  I 
was  not  surprised  that  so  much  alarm  pre- 
vailed among  my  men.  Carson,  one  of  the 
be.st  and  moat  experienced  mountaiiecrs, 
fully  supported  tho  opinion  given  by  Bridger 
of  the  dangerous  state  of  the  country,  and 
openly  expressed  his  conviction  that  we 
could  not  escape  without  some  sharp  en- 
//imters  with  the  Indians.  In  addition  to 
this,  he  made  his  will ;  and  among  the  cir- 
cumstances which  were  constantly  occurring 
to  increase  their  alarm,  this  was  the  most 
unfortunate ;  and  I  found  that  a  number  o( 
my  party  had  become  so  much  intimidated, 
that  they  had  requested  to  be  discharged  at 
this  place.  I  dined  to-day  at  Fort  I'latte, 
which  iias  been  mantioned  as  situated  at  the 


jiinetiiin  of  i.araiiiie  river  with  thi'  N'ebnska. 
Here  I  heanl  a  eoiiliriiiaiion  of  the  slate* 
iiii'iiis  fivcn  iiIhivi'.  The  parly  of  warriors, 
winch  Inn!  hlarird  a  lew  days  sinee  on  the 
trail  I't  the  eiiiii.'raiilfi,  was  exjiected  back  in 
fourteen  days,  to  jiilii  the  villaixn  with  which 
tlii'ir  laiiiiliiw  and  iIk^  old  men  had  remained. 
The  arrival  of  the  hitter  was  hourly  expects 
ed  ;  anil  some  Indians  have  just  conii!  in 
who  had  left  thorn  on  the  Laramie  fork, 
alujiit  twenty  miles  iiUive.  Mr.  Ilii^soiiette, 
one  of  the  traders  k-longing  to  Fuit  I'latlc, 
urged  the  propriety  of  taking  with  me  an  in- 
ter|ireter  and  two  or  three  old  men  of  the 
villaire  ;  in  which  riise,  he  thought  there 
Would  be  little  or  no  hazard  in  iMicoiintering 
any  of  the  war  parties.  The  principiu 
danger  was  in  being  attacked  before  they 
should  know  who  we  were. 

They  had  a  confused  idea  of  the  numbers 
and  power  o(  our  people,  and  dreaded  to 
bring  ii|)oii  themselves  the  military  force  of 
the  IJniled  Stales.  This  gentleiiian,  who 
spoke  tho  language  fluently,  ollered  his  ser- 
vices to  accompany  mo  so  (ar  us  the  Red 
Unites.  Ho  was  desirous  to  join  the  large 
party  on  its  return,  lur  purposes  of  trade,  and 
It  would  suit  his  views,  as  well  as  my  own, 
to  go  with  us  to  the  Buttes;  beyond  ■  hich 
point  it  would  bo  impossible  to  previ'il  on  a 
Sioux  to  venture,  on  account  of  their  fear  of 
the  (Jrows.  From  Fort  Laramie  to  the  Red 
Buttes,  by  tho  ordinary  road,  is  one  hundred 
and  thirty-five  miles;  aiiJ,  though  only  on 
the  tlireshold  of  danger,  it  seemed  better  to 
secure  the  services  of  an  interpreter  Ibr  tho 
partial  distance,  than  to  have  none  at  all. 

So  far  as  frequent  interruption  from  the 
Indians  would  allow,  we  occupied  ourselves 
in  making  some  astronomical  calculations, 
and  bringing  up  the  general  map  to  this 
stage  of  our  journey ;  but  the  tent  was  gen- 
erally occupied  by  a  succession  of  our  cere- 
monious visitors.  Some  came  for  presents, 
and  others  for  information  of  our  object  in 
coming  to  the  country  ;  now  and  then,  one 
would  dart  up  to  the  tent  on  horseback,  jerk 
off  his  trappings,  and  stand  silently  at  the 
door,  holding  his  horse  by  the  halter,  signi- 
fying his  desire  to  trade.  Occasionally  a 
savage  would  stalk  in  with  an  invitation  to 
a  feast  uf  honor,  a  dog  feast,  and  deliberately 
sit  down  and  wait  quietly  until  I  was  ready 
to  accompany  him.  I  went  to  one ;  the 
women  and  children  were  sitting  outside  the 
lodge,  and  wo  took  our  seats  on  buffalo 
robes  spread  around.  The  dog  was  in  a 
large  pot  over  the  tire,  in  the  middle  of  the 
lodge,  and  immediately  on  our  arrival  was 
dished  up  in  large  wooden  uowls,  one  of 
which  was  handed  to  each.  The  flesh  ap- 
peared very  glutinous,  v/ith  something  of  the 
flavor  and  appearance  of  muUon.  Feeling 
something  move  behind  me,  I  looked  round. 


fAI'l'.  KRKMONT'H  NAllHATIVK. 


\  t 


llMl 


anil  rmiiul  llini  I  linil  tnkiMi  my  himiI  nrnoiiif  ti 
littor  ol  till  yoini;;  |iii|)|n('«.  Had  I  In-nn 
iiico  in  HiK'li  MiiitttTH,  till'  pri'jiidici'Ft  of  <'ivi" 
liNatioii  ininlil  have  iiifrTlcrcd  with  my  triin- 
iliiillity ;  Imt,  fnrtiinuti'ly,  I  iiin  not  i>(  ilfli- 
ratu  iHTVi'd,  and  continued  miictly  to  i-mpiy 
my  plaltcr. 

Tlip  weatlmr  woi  cloudy  at  c'vonin;j,  with 
a  mn<lnrato  miiith  wind,  and  th(<  thi-rmomi'tt'r 
lit  0  o'clock  HjJ".  I  wa«  diKa|t|i()iiitod  in  my 
hope  of  ohtaininpf  an  olmcrvation  of  an  oc- 
ciiltation,  which  took  niacu  atMnit  midnif^ht. 
Tiio  miKin  hrou(fht  with  her  hnavy  bank*  of 
cio(id.4,  throufjh  whicii  «Ir>  Hcarcoly  made 
her  npp«Miriinco  diirin;,'  tho  night. 

Tlie  morning  of  tho  18th  wan  clondy  and 
culm,  tiio  tlicrmomctcr  at  0  o'clock  at  (II". 
About  9,  with  a  moderate  wind  from  the 
wpMt,  a  i<torm  of  rain  came  on,  accompanied 
by  sharp  thunder  and  lightnin);,  which  lanted 
al)()ut  an  iiour.  During  tlio  day  the  expected 
village  arrived,  consinting  principally  of  old 
men,  women,  and  children.  Ihey  had  a 
considorahio  niunbcr  of  horsefi,  and  largo 
troops  of  doga.  Their  lodges  were  pitched 
near  the  fort,  and  our  camp  was  con»tantly 
crowded  with  Indians  of  all  sizes,  trom  morn- 
ing until  night ;  at  which  time  some  of  the 
soldiers  generally  came  to  drive  them  all  off 
to  the  village.  My  tent  was  the  only  place 
which  they  respected.  Here  only  cntne  the 
chiol's  and  men  of  distinction,  and  generally 
one  of  them  remained  to  drive  away  the  wo- 
men and  children.  The  numerous  strange 
instruments,  applied  to  still  stranger  uses, 
excited  awe  and  admiration  among  them, 
and  those  which  I  used  in  talking  with  tho 
sun  and  stars  they  looked  upon  with  especial 
reverence,  as  mysterious  things  of  "  great 
medicine."  Of  the  three  barometers  which 
I  had  brought  with  me  thus  far  successfully, 
I  found  that  two  were  out  of  order,  and  spent 
tho  greater  part  of  the  19th  in  repairing 
them — an  operation  of  no  small  difficulty  in 
tho  midst  of  the  incessant  interruptions  to 
which  I  was  subjected.  We  had  the  mis- 
fortune to  break  here  a  large  thermometer, 
fraduatcd  to  show  tilths  of  a  degree,  which 
used  to  ascertain  the  temperature  of  boil- 
ing water,  and  with  which  I  had  promised 
myself  some  interesting  experiments  in  the 
mountains.  We  had  but  one  remaining,  on 
which  the  graduation  extended  sufficiently 
high  ;  and  this  was  too  small  for  exact  ob- 
servations. During  our  stay  here,  the  men 
had  been  engaged  in  making  numerous  re- 
pairs, arranging  pack-eaddles,  and  otherwise 
preparing  for  the  chances  of  a  rough  road 
and  mountain  travel.  All  thjigs  of  this  na- 
ture being  ready,  I  gathered  them  around 
mo  in  the  evening,  and  told  them  that "  I  had 
determined  to  proceed  tho  next  day.  They 
were  all  well  armed.  I  had  engaged  the 
•ervices  of  Mr.  Bissonette  as  interpreter,  and 


hiiil  taken,  in  the  circnmstanrpn,  every  |mH- 
sililc  m)>anN  to  iniiiri'  our  safety.  In  tho  rii 
mors  W(i  had  In-ard,  I  lii'lit-vfd  fhiTO  wan 
iniicli  exaggiTation,  and  then  tlicy  were  men 
acciistiimcil  lr>  this  kind  of  lili*  and  to  th<> 
country  ;  and  timt  thono  were  the  dun.i'crs  ot 
every  day  occurrence,  and  to  he  expected  in 
the  ordinary  course  of  their  service.  They 
liiiil  heard  of  th<!  unsettled  coiulitinii  nt  tho 
country  iM'loro  leaving  S(.  lioiiis,  mil  there- 
lore  could  not  make  it  a  reason  for  breaking 
their  engngements.  Htill,  I  was  unwilling 
to  take  with  me,  on  a  service  of  sniiie  cer- 
tain danger,  men  on  whom  I  could  not  rely, 
and  as  I  had  understood  that  thoro  were 
among  them  some  who  were  (limposcd  to 
cowardice,  and  anxious  to  return,  they  hud 
but  to  coino  forward  at  once,  and  slate  their 
desire,  and  they  would  he  discharged  with 
the  ttnoiint  duo  to  them  for  the  time  they 
had  <ervod."  Totheir  honor  be  it  sai<l,  there 
wa'.  but  one  among  them  who  had  the  tare 
to  come  forward  and  avail  himself  of  tho  per- 
mission. I  aiiked  him  some  few  questions, 
in  order  to  expose  him  to  the  ridicule  nt  tho 
men,  and  let  him  go.  The  day  alter  our 
departure,  he  engaged  himself  to  one  of 
the  forls,  and  set  oil'  with  a  party  to  the  Up- 
per Missouri.  I  did  not  think  that  the  situ- 
ation (if  tho  country  justified  me  in  taking 
our  young  companions,  Messrs.  Brant  and 
Benton,  along  with  us.  In  case  of  inisfor- 
tune,  it  would  have  been  thought,  at  the 
least,  an  act  of  great  imprudence ;  and  there- 
fore, though  reluctantly,  I  determined  to 
leave  them,  llaiulolph  had  been  the  life  of 
the  camp,  and  the  "  imlil  garfon"  was  much 
regretted  by  the  men,  to  whom  his  buoyant 
spirits  had  afforded  great  amusement.  They 
all,  however,  agreed  in  the  propriety  of  leav- 
ing liitn  at  the  fort,  because,  as  they  said,  he 
might  cost  the  lives  of  some  of  the  men  ii  i 
tight  with  the  Indians. 

July  21. — A  portion  of  our  baggage,  with 
our  field  notes  and  observations,  and  several 
instruments,  were  left  at  the  fort.  One  of 
the  gentlemen,  Mr.  Galpin,  took  charge  of  a 
barometer,  which  he  engaged  to  observe 
during  my  absence ;  and  I  entrusted  to  Ran- 
dolph, by  way  of  occupation,  tho  regular 
winding  up  of  two  of  my  chronometers,which 
were  among  the  instruments  eft.  Our  ob- 
servations showed  that  tho  chroiiometer 
which  I  retained  for  the  continuation  of  our 
voyage  had  preserved  its  rate  in  a  most  sa- 
tisfactory manner.  As  deduced  from  it,  the 
longitude  of  Fort  Laramie  is  Ih.  01' 21", 
and  from  lunar  distance  7/i.  01'  29";  giving 
for  the  adopted  longitude  104°  47'  43". 
Comparing  the  barometrical  observationi 
made  during  our  stay  here,  with  those  of  Dr. 
G.  Engleman  at  St.  Louis,  we  find  for  the  ele- 
vation of  the  fort  above  tho  Gulf  of  Mexico 
4,470  feet.     The  winter  rlimate  here  is  w 


<  • 


rriiinmiinrr*,  rvcry  pfiH. 
'•  iiiir  witi'ty.  In  tlio  ril 
I,  I  lirlipvt'il  f'liTO  wan 
Miiil  tlicn  llicy  WITH  inon 
kiiiil  ol'  liic  nrul  to  thx 
!'-(>  wi'ri>  till'  (liiiii'cru  ot 

I",  IIIkI  to  Ih>  P.X|NMtl'(l  in 

ol'  llioir  Hcrvirc.     Tlicy 

Hi'tllcil  coniliticiii   ol  llio 

ly  St.  I^iiiix,  iiti  I  then'- 

it  a  rciiNon  lor  lirciikiti)^ 

Niill,  I   \vn«  iiii\villin({ 

a  m>rvico  of  houic  rcr- 

wliotn  I  could  not  roly ; 

rHtood  that  llioro   were 

wlio   worn   ili>i|iosi'(l   to 

>iiM  to  return,  tlicy  had 

1  lit  oiicp,  and  nlat<>  their 

oMJd  ho  di«(linrf,'0(l  with 

thf-rii  lor  the  limn  they 

lioir  lioiior  k'  it  Haid,  thoro 

thcMi  who  had  th(>  lure 

I  avail  himsplf  ol"  tiio  por- 

lim  some  few  qupHtionn, 

liiii  to  the  ridicule  ot  tho 

go.     Tho  day  after  our 

afjed   himself'  to  one  of 

r  with  a  party  to  tho  Up- 

id  not  think  that  the  sitii- 

y  juotitiod  me  in  taking 

ioiiH,  MesgrH.  Hr:int  and 

lis.     In  case  of  misfor- 

^e  been  thought,   at  the 

U  imprudence ;  and  there- 

!tantly,    I  determined  to 

olph  nad  been  the  life  of 

'  iielit  frarfttn"  was  much 

Ml,  to  whom  hm  buoyant 

great  amusement.    They 

1  in  the  propriety  of  Icav- 

,  because,  as  they  said,  he 

!  of  Boino  of  tho  men  ii   i 

ns. 

:ion  of  our  baggage,  with 
observations,  and  several 
eft  at  the  fort.  One  of 
(iialpin,  took  charge  of  a 
he  engaged  to  observe 
;  and  I  entrusted  to  Ran- 
occupation,  tho  regular 
if  my  chronometersjwhich 
struments  tit.  Our  ob- 
Ihat  tho  chronometer 
r  the  continuation  of  our 
ed  its  rate  in  a  most  sa- 
As  deduced  from  it,  the 
Laramie  ia  7/i.  01'  21", 
ance7/».  01'  29";  giving 
ingitude  104°  47'  43". 
irometrical  obscrvationi 
y  here,  with  those  of  Dr. 
ix)ui8,  we  find  for  the  ele- 
bove  tho  Gulf  of  Mexico 
inter  rlimato  here  is  re> 


(84.). 


CAI'T. 


markiiiily  nidil  fur  tlic  ialiliHli^ ;  \u  liny 
weailiiT  in  Ireiiiieiit,  and  Ilic  |      -i'  I'lc- 

hr.iteil  Icir  wiriilx,  iif  which  the  |iri  .ail.it.' kiiu 
\i  went.  All  cant  wind  in  HUnuner,  mid  ii 
loiith  winil  ill  winter,  are  saul  tu  Iw  ulwiiy* 
aC('niii|i->Aiiii'd  wilh  rain. 

We  weio  reaily  to  denitrt ;  tho  t.entu  were 
•truck,  ih<''  iiiiiUm  gi>iiri'd  lip,  ;tnd  our  Imrrtes 
nadilled,  and  we  walked  up  to  the  fort  to  take 
die  .i/i/ri(/(  r»/)  with  our  I'riendH  in  uii  c.xcel- 
lunt  liiiin>'-lin '^ved  iirepiiration.  Wliili'  tlitiN 
|)le«itaiitly  ontja^red,  m-iited  in  one  of  the  little 
I'ool  chiimbern,  at  the  door  of  which  a  man 
had  been  Nlatio'ied  to  jirevent  all  intruMion 
Iriiin  the  iinliiiim,  a  iiniiilx'r  of  cliiuls,  several 
(if  them  |M)werl'ul  liix'-louking  men,  forced 
ilieir  way  into  the  room  in  spite  o(  all  op|H)- 
Hitioii.  llaiiding  mo  tlin  lollowing  letter, 
they  took  their  Heatti  in  Hilencc : 

"  i''oiir  Platte,  Jnillrt  1, 1843. 

"  Mu.  Fke.mont  :  Le.s  chefs  H'etant  assem- 
lilis  priHenteinent  mo  disent  do  vous  avertir 
(l(!  no  point  voiis  niottrc  en  route,  avaiit  (|iie 
lu  parti  do  jounes  gons,  ipii  est  en  dehors, 
soient  do  retoiir.  l)e  plus,  ils  mo  disent 
(ju'ils  soiit  Uis  certains  qu'ils  foront  feu  k  la 
piomiiiro  rencontre.  lis  doivcnt  etre  do  re- 
tour  dans  sept  k  huit  jours.  Kxcuscz  si  je 
rails  fais  CCS  observations,  mais  ii  mo  senihlo 
qu'il  est  inon  devoir  do  Tous  avertir  du  dan- 
(ler.  Memo  do  plus,  les  chefs  sont  los  por- 
tuurs  do  CO  billet,  qui  voua  defcndcnt  do 
oartir  avaiit  lo  retour  des  guerriers. 

"  Jo  Huis  votro  ot)ci8sant  servitour, 
"JUSiJl'lI  UISSONiriTK, 
"  Par  L.  B.  CIIAilTllAIM. 

"  Let  tioms  (Ir.quelqueschefi. — Lc  Cliapoau 
de  Ix)iitre,  le  Caaseur  du  Fleches,  la  Nuit 
Noir,  la  Queuo  do  fi(cur" 

[Translation.] 

"Pout  Platte,  July  1, 1843. 

"  Ma.  FuEMONT :  Tho  chiefs,  having  as- 
sembled in  council,  have  just  told  mo  to 
warn  you  not  to  set  out  before  the  party  of 
young  men  which  is  now  out  shall  liavo  re- 
turned. Furthermore,  they  tell  me  that  thev 
are  very  sure  they  will  fire  upon  you  as  bo(/i 
as  they  meet  you.  They  are  expected  ba  • 
in  boven  or  eight  days.  Excuse  mo  for 
making  these  observations,  but  it  seems  my 
duty  to  warn  you  of  danger.  Moreover,  the 
chiefs  who  prohibit  your  setting  oui  ijefore 
the  return  of  the  warriors  are  the  bearers  of 
tills  note. 

"  I  am  your  obedient  servant, 

"JOSEPH  BISSONETTE, 
"  By  L.  B.  CHARTRAIN. 

"  Names  of  some  of  the  chiefs, — The  Otter 
Hat,  tlic  Breaker  of  Arrows,  the  Black 
Nitrht,  the  Bull's  Tail." 


\ARUATIVK. 


Alter  rending  tlii?<,  I  ineiilidiinl  its  iiiirport 
lo  my  companliiiH  ;  mid,  seein;;  liiat  til 
w«>re  fully  p(iHHe-.«ed  iif  its  conteiii.-,  one  ot 
llie  Indians  riM)>  up,  and,  having  tint  shaken 
hands  Willi  ine,  Npuke  as  fullowri  : 

"  Villi  have  ('(imi>  among  us  at  a  had  time. 
Some  III  our  jieiiple  have  U'eii  killed,  and  our 
young  men,  who  are  gone  to  the  inoiintalitii, 
are  eager  to  avenge  the  blood  of  their  rela- 
tions, which  has  been  shed  hy  the  whites. 
Our  young  men  are  had,  and,  if  they  meet 
you,  they  will  iM-lievo  that  you  are  carrying 
giMids  and  aininiinition  to  their  enemies,  aim 
will  lire  upon  you.  V<m  have  tolil  us  that 
this  will  make  war,  We  kn.)w  that  our 
great  father  has  many  soldiers  and  big  guns, 
and  wo  are  anxious  to  have  our  lives.  Wo 
love  the  whites,  and  are  desirous  of  |H'aco. 
Thinking  of  all  these  things,  wo  have  deter- 
mined to  keep  you  hero  i'util  our  warriors 
return.  Wo  are  glad  to  see  you  among  us. 
Our  ithcr  is  rich,  and  we  c  xpected  that  you 
woi,;  I  have  brought  presenis  to  us — horses, 
guns,  and  blankets,  iliit  wo  are  glad  lo  see 
you,  Wo  look  upon  your  coming  as  the  light 
which  noes  before  I  •}.  sun;  for  you  will  toll 
mir  gr  it  fatlior  t'lat  you  have  seen  e-,  and 
that  wo  are  iiaki..  and  poor  iid  liuvc  no- 
thing to  eat;  and  he  will  s( .  '  us  all  thcso 
things."  llo  was  folio  v  '  ,  /  Jio  others,  to 
tho  same  ellect. 

The  obsurv»*''in«  of  the  savage  appi  red 
reasonable;  b^  i  -as  aware  that  tli'  .  >,ad 
in  view  only  t'  e  |)ri  sent  object  of  dutaining 
me,  and  were  i<nwilling  I  should  go  further 
into  the  country.  In  reply,  I  asked  them, 
through  tho  interpretation  of  Mr.  Boudeau, 
to  select  tv\'o  or  three  of  their  number  to  ac- 
company us  until  we  should  meet  their  peo- 
ple— they  should  spread  their  robes  in  my  tent 
and  eat  at  m"  table,  and  on  our  return  I 
would  give  them  presents  in  reward  of  their 
serrices.  They  ueclincd,  saying  that  there 
were  no  young  men  left  in  the  village,  and 
that  they  were  too  old  to  travel  so  many  days 
on  horseback,  and  preferred  now  to  smoko 
their  pipes  in  tho  lixlge,  and  let  the  warriors 
go  on  the  war  path.  Besides,  they  had  no 
power  over  tho  young  men,  and  were  afraid 
♦•>  interfere  with  them.   In  my  turn  I  address- 

I  them  :  "  You  say  that  you  love  the  whites ; 
*hy  have  you  killed  so  many  already  this 
spring  ?  You  say  that  you  love  the  whites, 
and  are  full  of  many  expressions  of  friend- 
ship to  us ;  but  you  are  not  willing  to  undergo 
the  fatigue  of  a  few  days'  ride  to  save  our 
lives.  We  do  not  bolieve  what  you  have 
said,  and  will  not  listen  to  you.  Whatever 
a  chief  among  ns  tells  his  soldiers  to  do,  ia 
done.  We  are  the  soldiers  of  tne  great  chief, 
your  father.  He  has  told  us  to  come  here 
and  see  this  country,  and  all  the  Indians,  his 
children.  Why  should  we  not  ;o  ?  Befort 
we  came,  we  heard  tliat  you  lud  killed  ku. 


so 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


11842. 


'i  ■  '■ 


people,  nnd  ceased  to  be  liis  cliildi  n ;  bnt  we 
came  atnoiiir  yo"  jicacoably,  holding  out  our 
hand.-!.  Now  we  lind  thai  the  stories  we 
heard  arc  not  lies,  and  that  you  are  no  longer 
his  friends  and  children.  We  have  thrown 
away  our  bodies,  and  will  net  turn  back. 
When  you  told  us  that  your  young  men 
would  kill  us,  you  did  not  kriow  that  our 
hearts  were  strong,  and  you  did  not  see  the 
rifles  which  my  young  men  carry  in  their 
hands.  We  are  few,  and  you  a  -o  many,  and 
may  kill  us  all ;  but  there  will  b?  much  cry- 
ing in  your  villages,  for  many  of  your  young 
men  will  stay  behind,  and  forget  to  return 
with  your  warriors  from  the  mountains.  Do 
you  think  that  our  great  chief  will  let  his 
soldiers  die,  and  forget  to  cover  their  graves  ? 
i3efore  the  snows  melt  again,  his  warriors 
will  sweep  away  your  villages  as  the  fire 
does  the  prairie  in  tlie  autumn.  See !  I  have 
pulled  down  my  white  houses,  and  my  people 
are  ready :  when  the  sun  is  ten  paces  higher, 
we  shall  be  on  the  march.  If  you  have  any- 
thing to  tell  us,  you  will  say  it  soon."  I 
broke  up  the  conference,  as  I  could  do  no- 
thing with  these  people  ;  and,  being  resolved 
to  proceed,  nothing  was  to  be  gained  by  de- 
lay. Accompanied  by  qur  hospitable  friends, 
we  returned  to  the  camp.  We  had  mounted 
our  horses,  and  our  parting  salutations  had 
been  exchanged,  when  one  of  the  chiefs  (the 
Bull's  Tail)  arrived  to  tell  me  that  they  had 
determined  to  send  a  young  man  with  us  ; 
and  if  I  would  point  out  the  place  of  our  eve- 
ning camp,  lie  should  join  us  there.  "  The 
young  man  is  poor,"  said  he  ;  "  he  has  no 
horse,  and  expects  y»u  to  give  him  one."  I 
described  to  him  the  place  where  I  intended 
to  encamp,  and,  shakmg  hands,  in  a  few  mi- 
nutes we  were  among  the  hills,  and  this  last 
habitation  of  whites  shut  out  from  our  view. 
The  road  led  over  an  interesting  plateau 
between  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte  on  the 
right,  and  Laramie  river  on  the  'eft.  At  the 
distance  of  ten  miles  from  the  fort,  we  en- 
tered the  sandy  bed  of  a  creek,  a  kind  of  de- 
file, shaded  by  precipitous  roc'xs,  down  which 
we  wound  our  way  for  severF.l  hundred  yards, 
to  a  place  where,  on  the  left  bank,  a  very 
large  spring  gushes  with  considerable  noise 
and  force  out  of  the  limestone  rock.  It  is 
called  "  the  Warm  Spring,"  and  furnishes  to 
the  hitherto  dry  bed  of  the  creek  a  conside- 
'able  rivulet.  On  the  opposite  side,  a  little 
below  the  spring,  is  a  lofty  limestone  escarp- 
ment, partially  shaped  by  a  grove  of  large 
trees,  whose  green  foliage,  in  contrast  with 
the  whiteness  of  the  rock,  renders  this  a  pic- 
turesque locality.  The  rock  is  fossiliferous, 
and,  so  far  as  I  was  able  to  deternrne  the 
character  Jif  the  fossils,  belongs  to  the  car- 
boniferous limestone  of  the  Missouri  river, 
tad  l?  probably  the  western  limit  of  that  for- 


mation. Beyond  this  point  I  met  with  no 
fossils  of  any  description. 

I  was  desirous  to  visit  the  Platte  near  the 
point  where  it  leaves  the  Black  hills,  and 
therefore  followed  this  stream,  for  two  or 
three  miles,  to  the  mouth  ;  where  I  encamp- 
rd  o!i  a  spot  which  atTorded  good  grass  and 
jirele  (ajuiseium)  (or  our  animals.  Our  tents 
having  been  found  too  thin  to  protect  our- 
selves and  the  in.struments  from  the  rains, 
which  in  this  elevated  country  are  attended 
with  cold  and  unpleasant  weather,  I  had  pro- 
cured I'rom  the  Indians  at  Laramie  a  tolera- 
bly large  lodge,  about  eighteen  feet  in  diame- 
ter, and  twenty  feet  in  height.  Such  a 
lodge,  when  properly  pitched,  is,  from  its 
conical  form,  almost  perfectly  secure  against 
the  violent  winds  which  are  frecjucnt  in  this 
region,  and,  with  a  fire  in  the  centre,  is  a 
dry  and  warm  shelter  in  bad  weather.  By 
raising  the  lower  part,  so  as  to  permit  the 
breeze  to  pasc  freely,  it  is  converted  into  a 
pleasant  summer  residence,  with  the  extraor- 
dinary ad  /antage  of  being  entirely  free  from 
mosquitoes,  one  of  which  I  have  never  seen 
in  an  Indian  lodge.  While  we  were  engaged 
very  unskilfully  in  erecting  this,  the  interpre- 
ter, Mr.  Bissonette,  arrived,  accompanied  bj 
the  Indian  and  his  wife.  She  laughed  at  oui 
awkwardness,  and  offered  her  assistance,  ol 
which  we  were  frequently  afterward  obliged 
to  avail  ourselves,  before  the  men  acquired 
sufficient  e.\pertn«;.^  to  pitch  it  without  diffi- 
culty. From  this  place  we  had  a  fine  view 
of  the  gorge  where  the  Platte  issues  frotr.  the 
Black  hillb,  changing  its  character  abruptly 
from  a  mountain  stream  into  a  river  of  the 
plains.  Immediately  around  us  the  valley  ol 
the  stream  was  tolerably  open ;  and  at  the 
distance  of  a  few  miles,  where  the  river  had 
cut  its  Vv-ay  through  the  hills,  was  the  narrow 
cleft,  on  one  side  of  which  a  lofty  precipice 
of  bright  red  rcv.k  rose  vertically  above  the 
low  hills  which  lay  between  us. 

Jubj  22. — In  the  morning,  while  breakfast 
was  being  prepared,  I  visited  this  place  with 
my  favorite  man,  Basil  Lajeunesse.  Enter- 
ing 80  fiir  as  there  was  footing  for  the  mules, 
we  dismounted,  and,  tying  our  animals,  con- 
tinued our  way  on  foot.  Like  the  whole 
country,  the  scenery  of  the  i  iver  had  under- 
gone an  entire  change,  and  was  in  this  place 
the  most  beautiful  I  have  ever  seen.  The 
breadth  of  the  stream,  generally  near  that  ot 
its  valley,  was  from  two  to  three  hundred  feet, 
with  a  swift  current,  occasionally  broken  by 
rapids,  and  the  water  perfectly  clear.  On 
either  side  rose  the  red  precipices,  vertical, 
and  sometimes  overhanging,  two  and  four 
hundred  feet  in  height,  crowned  with  green 
summits,  on  which  were  scattered  a  few 
pines.  At  the  foot  of  the  rocks  was  the 
usual  detritus,  formed  of  masftee  fallen  from 


'*"*•»•: 


\       M-: 


11842. 

his  point  I  met  with  no 
iptinn. 

I  visit  tiie  Platte  near  the 
vea  the  Blacii  liilis,  and 
this  stream,  for  two  or 
month  ;  wliere  I  encamp- 
atTorded  good  grass  and 
r  our  animals.    Our  tents 

too  thin  to  protect  our- 
ruments  from  the  rains, 
ited  country  are  attended 
lasant  weather,  I  had  pro- 
ans  at  Laramie  a  tolera- 
nt eighteen  feet  in  diame- 
eet  in  height.  Such  a 
rly  pitched,  is,  from  its 
t  perfectly  secure  against 
'hich  are  frecjuent  in  this 
,  fire  in  the  centre,  is  a 
ter  in  bad  weather.  By 
part,  so  as  to  permit  the 
:ly,  it  is  converted  into  a 
isidence,  with  the  extraor- 
f  being  entirely  free  from 
which  I  have  never  seen 

While  we  were  engaged 
jrecting  this,  the  interpre- 

arrived,  accompanied  bj 
,vife.  She  laughed  at  oui 
offered  her  assistance,  ol 
quently  afterward  obliged 
before  the  men  acquired 
s  to  pitch  it  without  dilfi- 
place  we  had  a  fine  view 
the  Platte  issues  frotr.  the 
ng  its  character  abruptly 
itream  into  a  river  of  the 
ly  around  us  the  valley  ol 
)lerably  open ;  and  at  the 
niles,  where  the  river  had 
1  the  hills,  was  the  narrow 
if  which  a  lofty  precipice 

rose  vertically  above  the 
r  between  us. 
I  morning,  while  breakfast 
i,  I  visited  this  place  with 
iasil  Lajeunesse.  Enter- 
was  footing  for  the  mules, 
d,  tying  our  animals,  con- 
1  foot.  Like  the  whole 
ry  of  the  i  iver  had  under- 
nge,  and  was  in  this  place 

1  have  ever  seen.  The 
im,  generally  near  that  ot 
two  to  three  hundred  feet, 
it,  occasionally  broken  by 
iter  perfectly  clear.  On 
e  red  precipices,  vertical, 
erhanging,  two  and  four 
ight,  crowned  with  green 
;h  were  scattered  a  few 
)t  of  the  rocks  was  the 
ned  of  masses  fallen  from 


1842. 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


tl 


above.  Among  the  pines  tliat  grew  here, 
and  on  the  occasional  banks,  wore  the  cherry 
(cerasus  virginiann),  CMrmnts,  and  grains  de 
bcBuf  (^shephcrdia  argetilea).  Viewed  in  the 
sunshine  of  a  pleasant  morning,  the  scenery 
was  of  a  most  striking  and  romantic  beauty, 
which  arose  from  tlie  picturesque  disposition 
of  the  objects,  and  the  vivid  contrast  of  colors. 
I  thought  with  much  pleasure  of  our  ap- 
proaching descent  in  the  canoe  througii  such 
interesting  places ;  and,  in  the  e.xpectation 
■  of  being  able  at  that  time  to  give  to  them  a 
full  examination,  did  no^  nov  dwell  so  much 
as  might  have  been  desiral'i.-j  upon  the  geo- 
logical formations  along  thr.  1  ne  of  the  river, 
where  they  are  developed  with  great  clear- 
ness. The  upper  portion  of  the  red  strata 
consists  of  very  compact  clay,  in  which  are 
occasionally  seen  imbedded  large  pebbles. 
Below  was  a  stratum  of  compact  red  sand- 
stone, changing  a  little  above  the  river  into  a 
very  hard  siliceous  limestone.  There  is  a 
small  but  handsome  open  prairie  immediately 
below  this  place,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river, 
which  would  be  a  good  locality  for  a  military 
post.  There  are  some  open  groves  of  cotton- 
wood  on  the  Platte.  The  small  stream  which 
comes  in  at  this  place  is  well  timbered  with 
pine,  and  good  building  rock  is  abundant. 

If  it  is  in  contemplation  to  keep  open  the 
communications  with  Oregon  territory,  a 
show  of  military  force  in  this  country  is 
absolutely  necessary ;  and  a  combination  of 
advantages  renders  the  neighborhood  of  Fort 
Laramie  the  most  suitable  place,  on  the  line 
of  the  Platte,  for  the  establishment  of  a  mili- 
tary post.  It  is  connected  with  the  nrouth 
of  the  Platte  and  the  Upper  Missouri  b/  ex- 
cellent roads,  which  are  in  frequent  use,  and 
would  not  in  any  way  interfere  with  the  range 
of  the  buffalo,  on  which  the  neighboring  In- 
dians mainly  depend  for  support.  It  would 
render  any  posts  on  the  Ix)wer  Platte  un- 
necessary ;  the  ordinary  communication  be- 
tween it  and  the  Missouri  being  sufficient  to 
control  the  intermediate  Indians.  It  would 
operate  effectually  to  prevent  any  such  co- 
alitions as  are  now  formed  among  the  Gros 
Venires,  Sioux,  Cheyennes,  and  other  In- 
dians, and  would  keep  the  Oregon  road 
through  the  valley  of  the  Sweet  Water  and 
the  South  Pass  of  the  mountains  constantly 
open.  It  lies  at  the  foot  of  a  broken  and 
mountainous  region,  along  which,  by  the  es- 
tablishment of  small  posts  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  St.  Vrain's  fort,  on  the  South  <brk 
of  the  Platte,  and  Bent's  fort,  on  the  Arkan- 
sas, a  line  of  communication  would  be  formed, 
by  good  wagon  roads,  with  our  southern  mili- 
tary posts,  which  would  entirely  command 
the  mountain  passes,  hold  some  of  the  most 
troublesome  tribes  in  check,  and  protect  and 
facilitate  our  intercourse  with  the  neighboring 
Spanish  settlements.     The  valleys  of  the 


rivers  on  which  they  would  be  situated  arc 
fertile  ;  the  country,  which  supports  immense 
herds  of  buffiiln,  is  admirably  adapted  to 
gracing  ;  and  herds  of  cattle  might  be  main- 
tained by  the  posts,  or  obtained  from  the 
Spanish  country,  which  already  supplies  a 
portion  of  their  provisions  to  the  trading  posts 
mentioned  above. 

Just  as  we  were  leaving  the  camp  this 
morning,  our  Indian  came  up,  and  stated  his 
intention  of  not  proceeding  any  further  until 
he  had  seen  the  horse  which  I  intendeu  to 
give  him.  I  felt  strongly  tempted  to  drive 
him  out  of  the  camp ;  but  his  presence  ap- 
peared to  give  confidence  to  my  men,  and  the 
interpreter  thought  it  absolutely  necessary. 
I  was  therefore  obliged  to  do  what  he  re- 
quested, and  pointed  out  the  animal,  with 
which  he  seemed  satisfied,  and  we  continued 
our  journey.  I  had  imagined  that  Mr,  Bis- 
sonette's  long  residence  had  made  him  ac- 
quainted with  the  country,  and,  according  to 
his  advice,  proceeded  directly  forward,  with- 
out attempting  to  regain  the  usual  road.  He 
afterward  informed  me  that  he  had  rarely 
ever  lost  sight  of  the  fort ;  but  the  effect  of 
the  mistake  was  to  involve  us  for  a  day  or 
two  among  the  hills,  where,  although  we 
lost  no  time,  we  encountered  an  exceedingly 
rough  road. 

To  the  south,  along  our  line  of  march  to- 
day, the  main  chain  of  the  Black  or  Laramie 
hills  rises  precipitously.  Time  did  not  permit 
me  to  visit  them  ;  but,  from  comparative  in- 
formation, the  ridge  ie  composed  of  the  coarse 
sandstone  or  conglomerate  hereafter  de- 
scribed. It  appears  to  enter  the  region  of 
clouds,  which  are  arrested  in  their  course, 
and  lie  in  masses  along  the  summits.  An 
inverted  cone  of  black  cloud  (cumulus)  rest- 
ed during  all  the  forenoon  on  the  lofty  peak 
of  Laramie  mountain,  which  I  estimated  to 
be  about  two  thousand  feet  above  the  fort,  or 
six  thousand  five  hundred  above  the  sea.  We 
halted  to  noon  on  the  Fourche  Amere,  so 
called  from  being  timbered  principally  with 
the  Hard  amire  (a  species  of  poplar),  with 
which  the  valley  of  the  little  stream  is  tole- 
rably well  wooded,  and  which,  with  large 
expansive  summits,  grows  to  the  height  of 
sixty  or  seventy  feet. 

"The  bed  of  the  creek  is  sand  and  gravel, 
the  water  dispersed  over  the  broad  bed  in 
several  shallow  streams.  We  found  here, 
on  the  right  bank,  in  the  shade  of  the  trees, 
a  fine  spring  of  very  cold  water.  It  will  be 
remarked  that  I  do  not  mention,  in  this  por- 
tion of  the  journey,  the  temperature  of  the 
air,  sand,  springs,  &c. — an  omission  which 
will  be  explained  in  the  course  of  the  nar- 
rati'-  -.  n  my  search  for  plants,  I  was  well 
rewarded  at  this  place. 

Witli  the  change  in  the  geological  forma- 
tion on  leaving  Fort  Laramie,  the  whole  face 


^^-^^r-m- 


32 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


L184a. 


of  the  country  lias  ertirely  altered  its  ap- 
pearance. Eastward  of  tliat  meridian,  the 
principal  objects  which  strike  the  eye  of  a 
traveller  are  tiie  absence  of  timber,  and  the 
immonfje  expanse  of  prairie,  covered  with 
the  verdure  of  rich  grasses,  and  highly  adapt- 
ed for  pasturage.  Wherever  they  are  not 
disturbed  by  the  vicinity  of  man,  large  herds 
of  buftlilo  giv''  animation  to  this  country. 
Westward  of  Laramie  river,  the  region  is 
sandy,  and  aoparently  sterile  ;  and  the  place 
of  tlie  grass  is  usin'ped  by  the  arlcmisia  and 
other  odoriferous  plants,  to  whose  growth 
the  sandy  soil  and  dry  air  of  this  elevated 
region  seem  highly  favorable. 

One  of  the  prominent  characteristics  in 
the  face  of  the  country  is  the  extraordinary 
abundance  of  the  arlemisias.  They  grow 
everywhere — on  the  hills,  and  over  the  river 
vboftoms,  in  tough,  twisted,  wiry  clumps ;  and, 
wherever  the  beaten  track  was  left,  they  ren- 
dered the  progress  of  the  carts  rough  and 
slow.  As  the  country  increased  in  elevation 
on  our  advance  to  the  west,  they  increased 
in  size ;  and  the  whole  air  is  strongly  im- 
pregnated and  saturated  with  the  odor  of 
camphor  and  spirits  of  turpentine  which  be- 
longs to  this  plant.  This  climate  has  been 
found  very  favorable  to  the  restoration  of 
health,  particularly  in  cases  of  consumption ; 
and  possibly  the  respiration  of  air  so  highly 
impregnated  with  aromatic  plants  may  have 
some  influence. 

Our  dried  meat  had  given  out,  and  we  be- 
gan to  be  in  want  of  food ;  but  one  of  the 
hunters  killed  an  antelope  this  evening,  which 
afforded  some  relief,  although  it  did  not  go 
far  among  so  many  hungry  men.  At  8 
»'clock  at  night,  after  a  march  of  twenty- 
iseven  miles,  we  reached  our  proposed  en- 
campment on  the  Fer-h-Cheval,  or  Horse- 
shoe creek.  Here  we  found  good  grass, 
with  a  great  quantity  of  frile,  which  fur- 
nished good  food  for  our  tired  animals.  This 
creek  is  well  timbered,  principally  with 
Hard  amire,  and,  with  the  exception  of  Deer 
creek  which  we  had  not  yet  reached,  is  the 
largest  affluent  of  thi  right  bank  between 
Laramie  and  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water. 
July  23. — The  present  year  had  been  one 
of  unparalleled  drought,  and  throughout  the 
country  the  water  had  been  almost  dried  up. 
By  availing  themselves  of  the  annual  rise, 
the  traders  had  invariably  succeeded  in  car- 
rying their  furs  to  the  Missouri;  but  this 
season,  as  has  already  been  mentioned,  on 
both  forks  of  the  Platto  they  had  entirely 
failed.  The  greater  number  of  the  springs, 
and  many  of  the  streams,  which  made  halt- 
ing places  for  the  voyageurs,  had  been  Jried 
up.  Everywhere  the  soil  looked  parched 
and  burnt ;  the  scanty  yellow  grass  crisped 
under  the  foot,  and  even  tJie  hardiest  plants 
were  destroyed  by  want  of  moisture.     1 


think  it  necessary  to  mention  this  fact,  be- 
cause to  the  rapid  cvaporatiim  in  such  an 
elevated  region,  nearly  five  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  almost  wholly  unprotected  by 
timber,  should  be  attributed  much  of  the 
sterile  appearance  of  the  country,  in  the  de- 
struction of  vegetation,  and  the  numerous 
saline  efllorescences  which  covered  the 
ground.  Such  1  afterward  found  to  be  the 
case. 

I  was  informed  that  the  roving  villages  of 
Indians  and  travellers  had  never  met  wifn 
difficulty  in  finding  an  abundance  of  grass 
for  their  horses ;  and  now  it  was  after  great 
search  that  we  wore  able  to  find  a  scanty 
))atch  of  grass,  sufficient  to  keep  them  from 
sinking ;  and  in  the  course  of  a  day  or  two 
they  began  to  sufler  very  much.  We  found 
none  to-day  at  noon;  and,  in  the  course  of 
our  search  on  the  Platte,  came  to  a  grove  of 
cotton-wood,  where  some  Indian  village  liad 
recently  encamped.  Boughs  of  the  cotton- 
wood  yet  green  covered  the  ground,  which 
the  Indians  had  cut  down  to  feed  their  horses 
upon.  It  is  only  in  the  winter  that  recourse 
is  had  to  this  means  of  sustaining  them; 
and  their  resort  to  it  at  this  time  was  a  strik- 
ing evidence  of  the  state  of  the  country. 
We  followed  their  example,  and  turned  our 
horses  into  a  grove  of  young  poplars.  This 
began  to  present  itself  as  a  very  serious  evil, 
for  on  our  animals  depended  altogether  the 
further  prosecution  of  our  journey. 

Shortly  after  we  had  left  this  place,  the 
scouts  came  galloping  in  with  the  alarm  of 
Indians.  We  turned  in  immediately  toward 
the  river,  which  here  had  a  steep  liigh  bank, 
where  we  formed  with  the  carts  a  very  close 
barricade,  resting  on  tho  river,  within  which 
the  animals  were  strongly  hobbled  and  pick- 
eted. The  guns  wore  discharged  and  re- 
loaded, and  men  thrown  forward,  under  cover 
of  the  bank,  in  the  direction  by  which  the 
Indians  were  expected.  Our  interpreter, 
who,  with  the  Indian,  had  gone  to  meet  them, 
came  in,  in  about  ten  minutes,  accompanied 
by  two  Sioux.  They  looked  sulky,  and  we 
could  obtain  from  them  only  some  confused 
information.  Wo  learned  that  they  belonged 
to  the  party  which  had  been  on  the  trail  of 
the  emigrants,  whom  they  had  overtaken  at 
Rock  Independence,  on  the  Sweet  Water. 
Here  the  party  had  disagreed,  and  came 
nigh  fighting  among  themselves.  One  por- 
tion were  desirous  of  attacking  the  whites, 
but  the  others  were  opposed  to  it;  and 
finally  they  had  broken  up  into  small  bands, 
and  dispersed  over  the  country.  The  greater 
portion  of  them  had  gone  over  into  the  terri- 
tory of  the  Crows,  and  intended  to  return  by 
the  way  of  the  Wind  rivervalley,  inthe  hoped 
being  able  to  fall  upon  some  small  parties  of 
Crow  Indians.  The  remainder  were  return 
ing  down  the  Platte,  in  scattered  parties  of 


■'«wte. 


11842. 

0  mention  this  fact,  be- 
cvaporatiiin  in  such  an 

arly  five  tiiousand  feet 
;t  wliolly  unprotected  by 
ittributed  inucli  of  tlio 
f  the  country,  in  the  de- 
:ion,  iind  tliu  numerous 
's  whicli  covered  the 
fterward  found  to  be  the 

fit  the  roving  villages  of 
!rs  had  never  met  witfn 
an  abundance  of  grass 
J  now  it  was  after  great 
B  able  to  find  a  scanty 
cicnt  to  keep  them  from 
course  of  a  day  or  two 
very  much.    We  found 
\ ;  and,  in  the  course  of 
latte,  came  to  a  grove  of 
some  Indian  village  had 
Boughs  of  the  cotton- 
rered  the  ground,  which 
down  to  feed  their  horses 
the  winter  that  recourse 
ns  of  sustaining  them; 
;  at  this  time  was  a  strik- 
e  state  of  the  country, 
jxample,  and  turned  our 
of  young  poplars.    This 
slf  as  a  very  serious  evil, 
depended  altogether  the 
of  our  journey, 
liad  left  this  place,  the 
ing  in  with  the  alarm  of 
;d  in  immediately  toward 
•e  had  a  steep  high  bank, 
ith  the  carts  a  very  close 
n  the;  river,  within  which 
rongly  hobbled  and  pick- 
ivere  discharged  and  re- 
own  forward,  under  cover 
s  direction  by  which  the 
'cteil.     Our  interpreter, 
n,  had  gone  to  meet  them, 
3n  minutes,  accompanied 
ley  looked  sulky,  and  we 
hem  only  some  confused 
earned  that  they  belonged 
had  been  on  the  trail  of 
im  they  had  overtaken  at 
B,  on  the  Sweet  Water. 
nd    disagreed,  and  came 
g  themselves.    One  por- 
of  attacking  the  whites, 
ere   opposed   to    it ;  and 
>kcn  up  into  small  bands, 
he  country.    The  greater 

1  gone  over  into  the  terri- 
ind  intended  to  return  by 
I  rivervalley,  inthe  hopeol 
pen  some  small  parties  of 
le  remainder  were  return 
c,  in  scattered  parties  of 


184!!.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


33 


ten  and  twenty ;  and  those  v.  honi  we  had 
encountered  belonged  to  those  who  had  ad- 
vocated an  attack  on  the  emigrants.  Seve- 
ral of  the  men  suggested  shooting  them  on 
the  spot;  but  1  promptly  discountenanced 
any  such  proceeding.  They  further  inform- 
ed me  that  buHalo  were  very  scarce,  and 
little  or  no  grass  to  bo  found.  There  had 
been  no  rain,  and  innumerable  quantities  of 
^asshoppers  had  destroyed  the  grass.  The 
insects  had  been  so  numerous  since  leaving 
Fort  I^raniie,  that  the  ground  seemed  alive 
with  them  ;  and  in  walking,  a  little  moving 
cloud  preceded  our  footsteps.  This  was  bad 
news.  No  grass,  no  buflalo — food  for  nei- 
tlier  hor.so  nor  man.  I  gave  theni  f.  -ne 
plugs  of  tobacco,  and  they  wen;  off,  il^'y- 
rently  well  satlslied  to  be  clear  of  ns;  for 
my  men  did  not  look  upon  them  very  loving- 
ly, and  they  glanced  suspiciously  at  our  war- 
like preparations,  and  the  little  ring  of  rifles 
whicn  surrounded  them.  They  were  evi- 
dently in  a  bad  humor,  and  shot  one  of  their 
horses  when  they  had  left  us  a  short  dis- 
tance. 

We  continued  our  march,  and,  after  a 
journey  of  about  twenty -one  miles,  encamped 
on  the  Platte.  During  the  day,  I  had  occa- 
sionally remarked  among  the  hills  the  pnora- 
lea  esculenta,  the  bread  root  of  the  Indians. 
The  Sioux  use  this  root  very  extensively,  and 
I  have  frequently  met  with  it  among  them, 
cut  into  thin  slices  and  dried.  In  the 
course  of  the  evening  we  were  visited  by  six 
Indians,  who  told  us  that  a  large  party  was 
encamped  a  few  miles  above.  Astronomi- 
cal observations  placed  us  in  longitude  104° 
69'  69 ",  and  latitude  42o  39'  25". 

We  made  the  next  day  twenty-two  miles, 
and  encamped  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Platte,  where  a  handsome  meadow  afforded 
tolerably  good  grass.  There  were  the  re- 
mains of  an  old  fort  here,  thrown  up  in  some 
sudden  emergency,  and  on  the  opposite  side 
was  a  picturesque  bluff  of  ferruginous  sand- 
stone. There  was  a  handsome  grove  a  lit- 
tle above,  and  scattered  groups  of  trees  bor- 
dered the  river.  Buffalo  made  their  appear- 
ance this  afternoon,  and  the  hunters  came  in, 
shortly  after  we  had  encamped,  with  three 
line  cows.  The  night  was  tine,  and  obser- 
vations gave  for  tlie  latitude  of  the  camp, 
4a»  47'  40". 

Julu  25. — We  made  but  thirteen  miles 
this  day,  and  encamped  about  noon  in  a 
pleasant  grove  on  the  right  bank.  Low 
scaffolds  were  erected,  upon  which  the  meat 
was  laid,  cut  up  into  thm  strips,  and  small 
fires  kindled  below.  Our  object  was  to  profit 
by  the  vicinity  of  the  buffiilo,  to  lay  in  a 
stock  of  provisions  f(  r  ten  or  fifteen  days. 
In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  the  liunters 
brought  in  five  or  six  cows,  and  all  hands 
were  kept  busily  employed  in  preparing  the 

8 


meat,  to  the  drying  ol  which  the  guard  at- 
tended during  the  night.  Our  people  had 
recovered  their  gaiety,  and  the  busy  figures 
around  the  blazing  fires  gave  a  picturesque 
air  to  the  camp.  A  very  serious  accident 
occurred  this  morning,  in  the  breaking  of 
one  of  tlie  barometers.  These  had  been  the 
object  of  my  constant  solicitude,  and,  as  I 
had  intended  them  principally  for  mountain 
service,  I  had  used  them  as  seldom  as  pos- 
sible; taking  them  always  down  at  nii;lil, 
and  on  the  occurrence  of  storms,  in  orde'i-  to 
lessen  the  chances  of  being  broken.  1  was 
reduced  to  one,  a  standard  barometer  of 
Troughton's  construction.  This  I  determin- 
ed to  preserve,  if  possible.  The  latitude  is 
42°  61 '  35",  and  by  a  mean  of  the  results 
from  chronometer  and  lunar  distances,  the 
adopted  longitude  of  this  camp  is  105*»  50' 
45". 

July  26. — Early  this  morning  we  were 
again  in  motion.  We  had  a  stock  of  pro- 
visions for  fifteen  days  carefully  stored  away 
in  the  carts,  and  this  I  resolved  should  only 
be  encroached  upon  when  our  rifles  should 
fail  to  procure  us  present  support.  I  de- 
termined to  reach  the  mountains,  if  it  were 
in  any  way  possible.  In  the  meantime,  buf- 
falo were  plenty.  In  six  miles  from  our 
encampment  (which,  by  way  of  distinction, 
we  shall  call  Dried  Meat  camp),  we  crosses 
a  handsome  stream,  called  La  Fuurche 
Boisie.  It  is  well  timbered,  and,  among  the 
flowers  in  bloom  on  its  banks,  I  remarked 
several  asters. 

Five  miles  further,  we  made  our  noon  halt 
on  the  banks  of  the  Platte,  in  the  shade  of 
some  cotton-woods.  There  were  here,  as 
generally  now  along  the  river,  thickets  of 
hippophaa,  the  grains  de  bceuf  of  the  coun- 
try. They  were  of  two  kinds— one  bearing 
a  red  berry  (the  shepherdia  argenlia  of 
Nuttall)  ;  the  other  a  yellow  berry,  of 
which  the  Tartars  arc  said  to  make  a  kind 
of  rob. 

By  a  meridian  observation,  tiie  latitude  of 
the  place  was  42°  50'  08".  It  was  my  daily 
practice  to  take  observations  of  the  sun's 
meridian  altitude ;  and  why  they  are  not 
given,  will  appear  in  the  sequel.  Eight 
miles  further  we  reached  the  mouth  of  Deer 
creek,  where  we  encamped.  Here  was  an 
abundance  of  rich  grass,  and  our  animals 
were  compensated  for  past  privations.  This 
stream  was  at  this  time  twenty  feet  broad, 
and  well  timbered  with  cotton-wood  of  an 
uncommon  size.  It  is  the  largest  tributary 
of  the  Platte,  between  the  mouth  of  the 
Sweet  Water  and  the  Laramie.  Our  astro- 
nomical observations  gave  for  the  mouth  of 
the  stream  a  longitude  of  106°  08'  24",  and 
latitude  42°  52'  24". 

July  27. — Nothing  worthy  of  mention  oc- 
curred on  tliis  day ;  we  travelled  later  than 


"S^'^'m-- 


I 


14 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1842. 


usual,  having  spent  some  time  in  searciiing 
for  grass,  crossiijii|  and  re-crossing  the  river 
before  we  coiiid  knd  a  Bufficicnt  (luantity  lor 
our  aniniiils.  Toward  dusk,  we  encamped 
among  eome  artemisia  biislies,  two  and  three 
i'eet  in  Jieight,  wliere  some  scattered  patches 
of  siliort  tougii  grass  atlbrded  a  scanty  sup- 
ply. In  crot  ing,  we  had  occasion  to  ob- 
serve that  tiie  river  was  frequently  too  deep 
to  be  forded,  tliotigh  wo  always  succeeded 
•  1  finding  a  place  where  the  water  did  not 
..iter  the  carts.  The  stream  continued  very 
cip'ir,  with  two  or  three  hundred  feet  breadth 
o  ,  iter,  and  the  sandy  bed  and  banks  were 
fr'  ,ucntly  covert-d  with  large  round  pebbles. 
We  had  travelled  this  day  twenty-seven 
miles.  The  main  chain  of  the  Black  hills 
was  here  only  about  seven  miles  to  the 
Bouth,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  rising 
abruptly  to  .no  height  of  eight  and  twelve 
hundred  feet.  Patches  oi  green  grass  in 
llie  ravines  on  the  steep  sides  marked  the 
presence  of  springs,  and  the  summits  were 
clad  with  pines. 

July  28. — In  two  miles  from  our  encamp- 
ment, we  reached  the  placo  where  the  regu- 
lar road  crosses  the  Platte.  There  was  two 
hundred  feet  breadth  of  water  at  this  time  in 
the  bed,  which  has  a  variable  width  of  eight 
to  fifteen  hi;ndred  feet.  The  channels  were 
generally  three  feet  deep,  and  there  were 
large  angular  rocka  on  the  bottom,  which 
made  tlic  ford  in  some  places  a  little  diffi- 
cult. Even  at  its  !ovv  stages,  thi&  rivur 
cannot  be  crossed  at  rar.'iom,  and  this  has 
always  been  used  as  the  bes'  ford.  The 
low  stage  of  the  waters  the  j, resent  ytxr 
had  made  it  fordable  in  almost  iny  part  of 
its  ccurse,  where  access  could  be  .Sad  to  its 
bed. 

For  the  satisfaction  of  travellers,  I  will 
endeavor  to  give  some  description  of  tl.e  na- 
ture of  the  roat'  from  Laramie  to  this  p^iint. 
The  nature  of  the  soil  may  be  inferred  ftom 
its  geological  formation.  The  limestone  at 
the  eastern  limit  of  this  section  is  succeeded 
by  limestone  williout  fossils,  a  great  variety 
of  sandstone,  consisting  principally  of  red 
sandstone  and  fine  conglomerates.  The  red 
sandstone  is  argillaceous,  with  compact 
white  gypsum  or  alabaster,  very  beautiful. 
The  other  iandstones  are  grey,  yellow,  and 
ferruginoua,  sometimes  very  coarse.  The 
apparent  sterility  of  the  country  must  there- 
fore be  sought  for  in  otlier  causes  than  the 
nature  of  the  soil.  The  face  of  the  country 
cannot  with  propriety  be  called  hilly.  It  is 
a  succession  of  long  ridges,  made  by  the  nu- 
merous streams  which  come  down  from  tlie 
neighboring  mountain  range.  The  ridges 
kave  an  undulating  surface,  with  some  such 
appearance  as  tiio  ocean  presents  in  an  ordi- 
nary breeze. 

The  road  which  is  now  generally  followed 


through  this  region  is  therefore  a  voiy  good 
one,  without  any  ditlic'ilt  ascents  to  over- 
come. The  principal  obstructions  are  near 
the  river,  where  the  transient  waters  ot 
heavy  rains  have  made  deep  ravines  with 
steep  banks,  which  renders  frequent  circuits 
necessary.  It  will  be  remembered  that  wa- 
gons |)ass  this  road  only  once  or  twice  a 
year,  which  is  by  no  means  suflicie'Jt  to 
break  down  the  stubborn  roots  of  the  innu- 
merable artemisia  bushes.  A  partial  al>- 
sence  of  these  is  often  the  only  indication  of 
the  track ;  and  the  roughness  produced  by 
their  roots  in  many  places  gives  tiic  road  the 
cliaracter  of  one  newly  opened  in  a  wooded 
country.  This  is  usually  considered  the 
worst  part  of  the  road  east  of  the  mountains ; 
and,  as  it  passes  through  an  open  prairie 
region,  may  be  much  improved,  so  as  to 
avoid  the  greater  part  of  the  inequalities  it 
now  presents. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  to  the 
Green  river  valley,  west  of  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains, there  is  no  such  thing  as  a  mountain 
road  on  the  line  of  communication. 

We  continued  our  way,  and  four  miles 
beyond  the  ford  Indians  were  discovered 
again  ;  and  I  halted  while  a  party  were  sent 
forward  to  ascertain  who  they  were.  In  a 
short  time  they  returned,  accompanied  by  a 
number  of  Indians  of  the  Oglalluh  band  of 
Sioux.  From  them  '.ve  received  some  inter- 
esting information.  They  had  formed  part 
of  the  great  village,  which  they  luformed  os 
had  broken  up,  and  was  on  itb  way  home. 
'1  .^e  greater  part  of  the  village,  including  the 
Arapahoes,  Cheyennes,  and  Oglallahs,  had 
crosisea  the  Platte  eight  or  ten  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water,  and  were 
now  behind  the  mountains  to  the  south  of 
us,  intending  to  regain  the  Platte  by  way  of 
Deer  creek.  They  had  taken  this  unusual 
route  in  search  of  grass  and  game.  They 
gave  us  a  very  discouraging  picture  of  the 
country.  The  great  drought,  aii'l  tha  plague 
7f  grasshoppers,  had  swept  it  so  that  scarce 
I.  blade  of  grass  was  to  be  seen,  and  there 
was  not  a  buSalo  to  be  found  in  the  whole 
region.  Their  people,  they  further  said,  had 
been  nearly  starved  to  death,  and  we  would 
find  their  road  marked  by  lodges  which  they 
had  thrown  away  in  order  to  move  more  ra- 
pidly, and  by  the  carcasses  of  the  horses 
which  they  had  eaten,  or  which  had  [jerished 
by  starvation.  Such  was  the  prospect  be 
fore  us. 

When  he  had  finished  thfl  interpretation 
of  tliese  things,  Mr.  Bissonetle  immediately 
rode  up  to  me,  and  urgently  adviseu  il-i*  1 
should  entirely  abandon  the  further  proeecu- 
lion  of  my  exploration.  "  Le  meilleure  avis 
que  je  pourrats  vous  donner  c'est  de  virer  it 
suite."  "  The  best  advice  1  can  give  yoU| 
is  to  turn  back  bt  onc«."    It  was  hia  ow> 


[1842. 

Ir  therefore  a  voiy  good 
itlic'ilt  ascents  to  ovor- 
il  olistriictions  are  near 
le  transient  waters  ot 
lade  deep  ravines  with 
renders  lreqiie\it  circiiita 
be  remembered  that  wa- 
1  only  once  or  twice  a 
no  means  stiflicie'it  to 
bborn  roots  ol'  tlie  innu- 
bustics.  A  partial  alv 
en  the  only  indin&tion  o( 
rouffhiioss  produced  by 
places  gives  the  road  the 
!wly  opened  in  a  wooded 
usually  considered  the 
id  east  ot  the  mountains ; 
hrough  an  open  prairie 
iich  improved,  so  as  to 
irt  of  liie  inequalities  it 

of  the  Kansas  to  the 
ivest  of  the  Rocky  nioun- 
ich  thing  as  a  mountain 
jommunication. 
ur  way,  and  four  miles 
ndians  were  discovered 
1  while  a  party  were  sent 
n  who  they  were.  In  a 
irned,  accompanied  by  a 
of  the  Oglallah  bancl  o{ 
1  ',ve  received  some  inter- 

They  had  formed  part 
,  which  they  lUtbrmed  os 
i  was  on  its  way  home, 
the  village,  ivicludingtlie 
tines,  and  Oglallahs,  had 
eight  or  ten  miles  below 
Sweet  Water,  and  were 
lountains  to  the  south  of 
>ai!i  the  Platte  by  way  of 
y  had  taken  this  unusual 
grass  and  game.  They 
couraging  picture  of  the 
at  drought,  an''  tha  plague 
id  swept  it  so  that  scarce 
ma  to  be  seen,  and  there 
0  be  found  in  the  whole 
jple,  they  further  said,  had 
d  to  death,  and  we  would 
rked  by  lodges  which  they 
in  order  to  move  more  ra- 

carcasses  of  the  horses 
ten,  or  which  had  perished 
uch  was  the  prospect  be- 

inished  thfl  interpretation 
Ir.  Bissonetle  immediately 
id  urgently  adviseci  u.j.*  ! 
andon  the  further  proEecu- 
ition.  "  Le  nteilleure  avu 
us  donner  c'est  de  virer  it 
!st  advice  I  can  give  you, 
t  once."    It  was  his  own 


I8i2.1 


I'APT.  FREMONT'S  NAKRATIVE. 


U 


intention  to  return,  as  wo  had  now  reached 
the  point  to  which  he  had  engaged  to  attend 
me.  In  reply,  I  called  up  my  men,  and  com- 
municated to  them  fully  the  information  I 
had  just  received.  I  then  expressed  to  them 
my  fixed  determination  to  proceed  to  the  end 
of  the  enterprise  on  which  I  had  been  sent ; 
but  as  the  situation  of  the  country  gave  me 
some  reason  to  apprehend  that  it  might  be 
attended  with  an  unfortunate  result  to  some 
of  us,  I  would  leave  it  optional  with  them  to 
continue  with  me  or  to  return. 

Among  them  were  some  live  or  six  who  I 
knew  would  remain.  We  had  still  ten  days' 
provisions ;  and,  should  no  game  te  found, 
when  this  stock  was  expended,  we  had  our 
horses  and  mules,  which  wc  could  eat  when 
other  means  of  subsistence  failed.  But  not 
1  man  flinched  from  the  undertaking. 
"  We'll  eat  the  mules,"  said  Basil  Lajeunes- 
se  ;  and  thercupovi  we  shook  hands  with  our 
interpreter  and  his  Indians,  and  parted. 
With  them  1  sent  back  one  of  my  men, 
Dumis,  whom  the  effects  r,f  an  old  wound 
in  the  leg  rendered  incapable  of  continuing 
the  journey  on  foot,  and  his  horse  seemed  on 
the  point  of  giving  out.  Having  resolved  to 
r'isencumber  ourselves  immediately  of  every- 
thinij  not  absolutely  necessary  to  our  future 
operations,  I  turned  directly  in  toward  the 
river,  and  erjcamfied  on  the  left  bank,  a  little 
above  the  place  where  our  council  had  teen 
held,  and  where  a  thick  grove  of  willows 
offered  a  suitable  spot  fur  the  object  I  had  in 
view. 

The  carts  liaving  been  discharged,  the 
covers  and  wheels  were  taken  off,  and,  with 
the  frames,  carried  into  some  low  places 
among  the  willows,  and  concealed  in  the 
dense  foliage  in  such  a  manner  that  the  glit- 
ter of  the  iron  work  might  not  attract  the  ob- 
servation of  some  straggling  Indian.  In  the 
Band,  which  had  been  blown  up  into  waves 
among  the  wil!(*.v8,  a  large  hole  was  then 
dug,  ten  feet  square,  and  six  deep.  In  the 
meantime,  all  our  effects  liaJ  been  spread 
out  upon  the  ground,  and  whatever  was  de- 
signea  to  be  carried  along  with  us  separated 
and  laid  aside,  and  the  remaining  part  car- 
ried to  the  hole  and  carefully  covered  up. 
As  much  as  possible,  all  traces  of  our  pro- 
ceedings were  obliterated,  and  it  wanted  but 
a  rain  to  render  our  cache  safe  beyond  dis- 
.jovery.  All  the  men  were  now  set  at  work 
to  arrange  t)-3  p&v.K-8addles  and  make  up  the 
packs. 

The  day  was  very  warm  and  calm,  and 
the  sky  entirely  clear,  except  where,  as 
vsnal  ?long  the  summits  of  the  mountainous 
ridge  opposite,  the  r.louds  had  congregated 
in  masiieii.  Our  lodge  had  been  planted, 
and  on  account  of  the  heat,  the  ground  pins 
bad  been  taken  out,  and  the  lower  part 
•lightly  raised.    Near  to  it  was  standing  the 


barometer,  which  swung  in  a  tripod  frame  j 
and  within  the  lodge,  where  a  small  lire  had 
been  built,  Mr.  I'reuss  was  occupied  in  ob- 
serving the  temperature  of  boiling  water. 
At  this  instant,  and  without  any  warning 
until  it  was  within  fifty  yards,  a  violent  gust 
of  wind  dashed  down  the  lodge,  burying  un- 
der it  ISir.  Preuss  and  about  a  dozen  men, 
who  had  attempted  to  keen  it  from  being 
carried  away.  I  succeeded  in  saving  the 
barometer,  which  the  lodge  was  carrying  off 
with  itself,  but  the  thermometer  was  l)roken. 
Wo  had  ni>  others  of  a  high  graduation,  none 
of  those  which  remained  going  liigiier  than 
135^  Fahrenheit.  Our  astronomical  obser- 
vations gave  to  thia  place,  which  we  named 
Cache  camp,  a  longitude  of  106°  38'  26", 
latitude  42°  60'  53''. 

July  29. — All  our  arrangemenis  having 
been  completed,  we  lefl  the  encampment  at 
7  o'clock  this  morning.  In  this  vicinity  the 
ordinary  road  leaves  the  Platte,  and  crosses 
over  to  the  .Sweet  Water  river,  which  it 
strikes  near  Rock  Independence.  Instead 
of  following  this  road,  I  had  determined  to 
keep  the  immediate  valley  of  the  Platte  so 
far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water,  in  the 
expectation  of  finding  better  grass.  To  this 
I  was  further  prompted  by  tlie  nature  of  my 
instructions.  To  Mr.  Carson  was  assigned 
the  office  of  guide,  as  we  had  now  reached 
a  part  of  the  country  with  which,  or  a  great 
part  of  which,  long  residence  had  made  him 
familiar.  In  a  few  miles  we  reached  the 
Red  Buttes,  a  famous  landmark  in  this  coun- 
try, whose  geological  composition  is  red 
sandstone,  limestone,  and  calcareous  sand- 
stone and  pudding  stone. 

The  river  here  cuts  its  way  through  a 
ridge ;  on  the  eastern  side  of  it  are  the  lofty 
escarpments  of  red  argillaceous  sandstone, 
which  are  called  the  Red  Buttes.  In  this 
passage  the  stream  is  not  much  compressed 
or  pent  up,  there  being  a  bank  of  consider- 
able though  variable  breadth  on  either  side. 
Immediately  on  entering,  we  discovered  a 
band  of  buffalo.  The  hunters  failed  to  kill 
any  of  them ;  the  leading  hunter  being 
thrown  into  a  ravine,  which  occasioned  some 
delay,  and  in  the  meantime  the  herd  clam- 
bered up  the  steep  face  of  the  ridge.  It  is 
sometimes  wonderful  to  see  these  apparently 
clumsy  animals  make  their  way  up  and 
down  the  most  rugged  and  broken  preci- 
pices. We  halted  to  noon  before  we  had 
cleared  this  passage,  at  a  spot  twelve  miles 
distant  from  Cache  camp,  where  we  found 
an  abundance  of  grass.  So  far,  the  account 
of  the  Indians  was  found  to  be  false.  On 
thfi  banks  were  willow  and  cherry  trees. 
The  cherries  were  not  yet  ripe,  but  in  the 
thick  ?t8  were  numerous  fresh  tracks  of  tlie 
ffriz7iy  bear,  which  a.e  very  fond  of  thia 
nui'.    The  soil  here  is  red,  the  romposition 


v.mi.. 


M 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1841 


t- 


'i: : 


ixing  tlorived  from  the  rod  BundBtone. 
About  sL'ven  miles  broiiplit  us  tlirniiji;h  the 
ril{:e,  in  wliich  the  course  of  the  river  is 
north  Hiiil  south.  Here  the  vnllcy  opens  out 
l/roadly,  iind  hiph  walls  of  the  rod  formation 
present  themselves  amonff  the  hill»  to  the 
eant.  '.Vo  crossed  here  a  pretty  little  rropk, 
an  Htlluent  of  the  rijjht  bank.  It  is  well 
lifiibered  with  cotton-wood  in  this  vitiuily, 
and  the  absinthe  has  lost  its  shnil)-lii.i>  rliar- 
aoter,  and  becomes  small  trees  six  an'i  cigla 
I'ei ;,  in  height,  and  sometimes  eight  iiich--^ 
in  diameter.  Two  '>r  three  rniles  ab»vi'  >hh 
creek  we  made  our  encar.ipment,  !iii\  ing 
travelled  to-dav  twerity-five  n:il{'8.  OurHni- 
muls  fared  well  here,  as  thor^  is  an  ahni- 
dance  nf  grass.  The  river  bt'd  \»  made  up 
of  pebbios,  and  in  tl'  bank,  at  the  level  of 
tin?  WK'cr,  is  a  congionierate  of  coarse  p<^b- 
blos  about  the  size  oi  o.-trich  cgjr«,  and 
which  I  remarked  in  tlio  bankw  c.f  the  Lara- 
mie fork.  It  is  overlaid  by  a  soil  of  mi.xed 
clay  and  sand,  six  feet  thick.  Vy  ai.trono- 1 
mical  ot).-.prvation8,  our  posi'.iun  is  .'n  longi- 
tude 100°  .'i4'  32",  and  latitude  42"  38'.  I 
July  30. — After  travelling  about  twelve  i 
mill's  this  morning,  we  reached  a  place  wliere 
tlie  Indian  village  had  crossed  the  river. 
Here  were  the  poles  of  discarded  hxlges  and 
skeletons  of  horses  lying  about,  ftlr.  Car- 
ion,  who  had  never  been  higher  npfhan  this 
^oint  on  the  river,  which  has  the  character 
jif  bein^  exceedingly  rugged,  and  walled  in 
by  precipices  above,  thought  it  adv  idable  to 
camp  near  this  place,  where  we  were  "ertain 
of  obtaining  grass,  and  to-morrow  make  our 
crossing  among  the  rugged  hills  to  the  .Sweet 
Water  river.  Accordingly  we  turned  back 
and  descended  the  river  to  an  island  near  by, 
which  was  about  twenty  acres  in  size,  cover- 
ed with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grass.  The 
formation  here  I  found  highly  interesting. 
Immediately  at  this  island  the  river  is  again 
shut  up  in  the  rugged  hills,  which  come 
down  to  it  from  the  main  ridge  in  a  succes- 
sion of  spurs  three  or  four  hundred  feet  high, 
and  alternated  with  green  level  prairillons  or 
meadows,  bordered  on  the  river  banks  with 
thickets  of  willow,  and  having  many  plants 
to  interest  the  traveller.  The  island  lies  be- 
tween two  of  these  ridges,  three  or  four 
hundred  yards  apart,  of  which  that  on  the 
right  bank  is  composed  entirely  of  red  argil- 
laceous sandstone,  with  thin  layers  of  fibrous 
gypsum.  On  the  left  bank,  the  ridge  is  com- 
posed entirely  of  siliceous  pudding  stone,  the 
pebbles  in  the  numerous  strata  increasing  in 
size  from  the  top  to  the  bottom,  where  they 
are  as  large  as  a  man's  head.  So  far  as  I 
was  able  to  determine,  these  strata  incline  to 
the  nortiieast,  with  a  dip  of  about  16°.  This 
pudding  stone,  or  conglomerate  formation,  I 
T'as  enabled  to  trace  through  an  extended 
nnge  of  country,  from  a  few  miles  east  of 


I  il 


the  meridian  of  Fort  Laramie  to  where  » 
found  it  superposed  on  the  granite  of  tlit 
Rocky  mountains,  in  longitude  1()!>^  00'. 
From  its  appearance,  the  nuiin  chain  of  the 
Laramie  mountain  is  composed  of  this  rock, 
and  in  a  number  of  jdaces  I  found  isolated 
bills,  which  served  to  mark  a  former  level 
which  bad  been  probably  hwept  away. 

These  longki:,- rates  are  very  friabli?,  and 
f'nsily  (locompi'fs^d ;  and   .'  am   inclined  to 

ink  thii'  forintii.ii  II  is  the  source  from  which 
uas  derived  tb."  ,"v"iit  deposite  of  sand  and 
gi'^tul  wb-ch  fiirihi  'e  sui'ico  rock  of  the 
j.i'.tirip  fuiintry  nr  ;  of  the  Mississippi. 

Crossing  the  ridire  of  red  sandstone,  and 
traversing  the  little  prairie  which  lies  to  the 
southward  of  it,  we  made  in  the  afternoon  an 
excursion  to  a  place  which  we  have  called 
the  Hot  Spring  (j!i)''\  This  place  has  much 
the  pt.'pt^an  lie  of  a  gate,  by  which  the 
Platte  pas>i"s  through  a  ridgo  composed  of  a 
ivhito  and  ciili'iircous  sandstone.  The  length 
of  l!'  iiissap;iM  is  about  four  hundred  yards, 
with  u  '■mooih  gieen  prairie  on  either  side. 
Through  this  place,  the  stream  flows  with  a 
(juiet  current,  unbroken  by  any  rapid,  and  is 
about  seventy  yards  wide  between  the  walls, 
which  rise  perpendicularly  from  the  water. 
To  that  on  tlio  right  bank,  which  is  the 
lower,  the  barometer  gave  a  height  of  three 
hundred  and  sixty  feet.  This  place  will  be 
more  particularly  described  hereafter,  as  we 
passed  through  it  on  our  return. 

We  saw  here  numerous  herds  of  mountaii 
sheep,  and  frequently  heard  the  volley  of 
rattling  stones  which  accompanied  their  rapid 
descent  down  the  steep  hills.  This  was  the 
first  place  at  which  we  had  killed  any  of 
these  animals ;  and,  in  consequence  of  this 
circumstance,  and  of  the  abundance  of  these 
sheep  or  goats  (for  they  are  called  by  each 
name),  we  gave  to  our  encampment  the  name 
of  Goat  Island.  Their  flesh  is  much  es- 
teemed by  the  hunters,  and  has  very  much 
the  flavor  of  the  Allegany  mountain  sheep. 
I  have  frequently  seen  the  horns  of  this  ani- 
mal three  feet  long  and  seventeen  inches  in 
circumference  at  the  base,  weighing  eleven 
pounds.  But  two  or  three  of  these  were 
killed  by  our  party  at  this  place,  and  of  these 
the  horns  were  small.  The  use  of  these 
horns  seems  to  bo  to  protect  the  animal's 
head  in  pitching  down  precipices  to  avoid 
pursuing  wolves — their  only  safety  being  in 
places  where  they  cannot  be  followed.  The 
bones  are  very  strong  and  solid,  the  marrow 
occupying  but  a  very  small  portion  of  the 
bone  in  the  leg,  about  the  thickness  of  a  rye 
straw.  The  hair  is  short,  resembling  the 
winter  color  of  our  common  deer,  which  it 
nearly  approaches  in  size  and  appearance. 
Except  in  the  horns,  it  has  no  resemblance 
whatever  to  the  goat.  The  longitude  of  this 
place,  resulting  from  chrouometex  and  lunar 


p 


l\8i% 

'ort  Laramie  to  wiiero  \ 
fd  on  tlio  griinitc  of  the 
in  longitude  l()i>=  00'. 
Rc,  tliu  nmin  chain  of  tiie 
is  composed  of  this  rork  , 
f  places  I  found  i»>olated 

I  to  mark  a  former  level 
obably  hwept  awny. 
rates  are  very  friablo,  and 
I ;   and   .'  am   inclined  to 

II  is  the  feource  from  which 
"at  deposite  of  sand  and 

'e  8Ui''ico  rock  of  the 

i  of  the  Mississippi. 

ire  of  red  sandstone,  and 

9  prairie  which  lies  to  the 

mnde  in  the  aflernoon  an 

ice  which  we  have  called 

'.1,  This  place  has  much 
i  a  gate,  by  which  the 
igh  a  ridge  composed  of  a 
us  sandstone.  The  length 
ibout  four  hundred  yards, 

en  prairie  on  either  side. 
e,  the  stream  flows  with  a 
roken  by  any  rapid,  and  is 
Is  wide  between  the  walls, 
idicularly  from  the  water. 

ight  bank,  which  is  the 
ter  gave  a  height  of  three 

feet.  This  place  will  be 
described  hereafter,  as  wa 
on  our  return, 
jmerous  herds  of  mountaii 
!ntly  heard  the  volley  of 
ich  accompanied  their  rapid 
steep  hills.  This  was  the 
ich  we  had  killed  any  of 
nd,  in  consequence  of  thi? 

of  the  abundance  of  these 
>r  they  are  called  by  each 

our  encampment  the  name 

Their  flesli  is  much  es- 
nters,  and  has  very  much 
Allegany  mountain  sheep, 
seen  the  horns  of  this  ani- 
g  and  seventeen  inches  in 

the  base,  weighing  eleven 
o  or  three  of  these  were 
y  at  this  place,  and  of  these 
imall.  The  use  of  these 
bo  to  protect  the  animal's 

down  precipices  to  avoid 
-their  only  safety  being  in 
r  cannot  be  followed.  The 
rong  and  solid,  the  marrow 

very  small  portion  of  the 
bout  the  thickness  of  a  rye 
r  is  short,  resembling  the 
ur  common  deer,  which  il 
i  in  size  and  appearance, 
irns,  it  lias  no  resemblance 
;oat.  The  longitude  of  this 
x)m  chronometer  and  lunar 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FRKMONT'S  NARRATIVR. 


m 


distancfw,  and  an  occultation  of  Arietis,  is 
107"  13'  29",  and  the  latitude  4-J°  33'  27". 
One  of  our  horses,  which  had  jjiven  uut,  wc 
left  to  recewe  strength  on  the  island,  intend- 
ing to  take  her,  perliaps,  on  our  return. 

Jul;/  31. — This  morning  we  left  the  course 
of  the  IMalte,  to  crosH  over  to  the  Sweet  Wa- 
ter. Our  way,  for  a  few  miles,  lay  up  the 
sandy  bed  of  a  dry  creek,  in  which  I  loiind 
several  interesting  plants.  Leaving  this,  we 
wound  our  way  to  the  summit  of  the  hills, 
of  which  the  peaks  are  here  eight  hundred 
feet  above  the  Platte,  bare  and  rocky.  A 
long  and  gradual  slope  led  from  these  hills 
to  the  Sweet  Water,  which  we  reached  in 
litteen  miles  from  Goat  Island.  I  made  an 
early  encampment  here,  in  order  to  give  the 
hunters  an  opportunity  to  procure  a  supply 
from  several  bands  of  bufTalo,  which  made 
their  appearance  in  the  valley  near  by.  The 
siream  iiere  is  about  sixty  feet  wide,  and  at 
this  time  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  deep, 
with  a  very  moderate  current. 

The  adjoining  prairies  are  sandy,  but  the 
immediate  river  bottom  is  a  good  soil,  which 
atibrded  an  abundance  of  soti  green  grass  to 
our  horses,  and  where  I  iouutl  a  variety  of 
interesting  plants,  which  made  their  appear- 
ance for  the  first  time.  A  rain  to-night 
made  it  unpleasantly  cold ;  and  there  was  no 
tree  here,  to  enable  us  to  pitch  our  single 
tent,  the  poles  of  which  had  been  left  at 
Cache  camp.  We  had,  therefore,  no  shelter 
except  what  was  to  be  found  under  cover  i>\' 
the  absifUhe  bushes,  which  grew  in  manj 
thick  patches,  one  or  two  and  sometimes 
three  feet  high. 

At^tist  I. — The  hunters  went  ahead  this 
morning,  as  buffalo  appeared  tolerably  abun- 
dant, and  I  was  desirous  to  secure  a  small 
stock  of  provisions;  and  we  moved  about 
seven  miles  up  the  valley,  and  encamped  one 
mile  below  Rock  Independence.  This  is  an 
isolated  granite  rock,  about  six  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  long,  and  forty  in  height.  Exceut 
in  a  depression  of  the  summit,  where  a  little 
soil  supports  a  scanty  growth  of  shrubs,  with 
a  solitary  dwarf  pine,  it  is  entirely  bare. 
Everywhere  within  six  or  eight  feet  of  the 
ground,  where  the  surface  is  sufficiently 
smooth,  and  in  some  places  sixty  or  eighty 
feet  above,  the  reck  is  inscribed  with  the 
names  of  travellers.  Many  a  name  famous 
in  the  history  of  this  country,  and  some  well 
known  to  science,  are  to  be  found  mixed 
among  those  of  the  traders  and  of  travellers 
for  pleasure  and  curiosity,  and  of  missiona- 
ries among  the  savages.  Some  of  these 
have  been  washed  away  by  the  rain,  hut  the 
greater  number  are  still  very  legible.  The 
position  of  this  rock  is  in  longitude  107°  66', 
latitude  42°  29'  36".  We  remained  at  our 
camp  of  August  1st  until  noon  of  the  next 
day,  occupied  in  drying  meat.    By  observa- 


tion, the  longitude  of  the  place  ia  107*25' 
23",  latitude  42°  29'  66". 

Aiiifiixt  2. — Five  miles  above  Rock  Inde- 
poudonce  we  ciune  to  a  place  called  the 
Devil's  (Jate,  where  the  Sweet  Water  cuts 
through  the  point  of  a  granite  ridge.  The 
length  of  the  piissago  is  about  three  hundred 
yards,  and  the  width  thirty-five  yards.  The 
walls  ol  rock  are  vertical,  and  about  four 
hundred  feet  in  height ;  and  the  stream  in 
the  gate  is  almost  entirely  choked  up  by 
nias.ses  which  have  fallen  from  above.  In  the 
wall, on  the  right  bank,  is  adikc  of  trap  rock, 
cutting  through  a  fine-grained  grey  granite. 
Near  the  point  of  this  ridge  crop  out  some 
strata  of  the  valley  fortiiation,  consisting  of  a 
greyish  mil  aceous  sandstone, and  fine-grained 
cofiglomenite,  and  mat  1.  We  encamped  eight 
m'les  abo\o  the  Devil's  Gate.  Thorf!  was 
n)  timber  of  any  kind  on  the  river,  but  gotKj 
fires  were  made  of  diift  wood,  aided  by  the 
I ots  dii  vtbhe. 

We  had  to-night  no  shelter  from  the  rain, 
which  commenced  with  squalls  of  wind  about 
sunset.  The  country  here  is  e.xceedingly 
picturesque.  On  either  side  of  the  valley, 
which  is  tour  or  five  miles  broad,  the  moun- 
tains rise  to  the  height  of  twelve  and  til'teen 
hundred  or  two  thousand  feet.  On  the  south 
side,  the  range  appears  to  be  timbered,  and 
to-night  is  luminous  with  fires — probably  the 
nork  of  the  Indians,  who  have  just  passed 
.rough  the  valley.  On  the  north,  broken 
and  granite  masses  rise  abruptly  from  the 
green  sward  of  the  river,  terminating  in  a 
line  of  broken  summits.  Except  in  the  cre- 
vices of  the  rock,  and  here  and  there  on  a 
ledge  or  bench  of  the  mountain,  where  a  few 
(lardy  pines  have  clustered  together,  these 
are  perfectly  bare  and  destitute  of  vegetation. 

Among  these  masses,  where  there  are 
sometimes  isolated  hills  and  ridges,  green 
valleys  open  in  upon  the  river,  which  sweeps 
the  base  of  these  mountains  for  thirty-six 
miles.  Everywhere  its  deep  verdure  and 
profusion  of  beautiful  flowers  is  in  pleasing 
contrast  with  the  sterile  grandeur  of  the  rock 
and  the  barrenness  of  the  sandy  plain,  which, 
from  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  sweeps  up 
to  the  mountain  range  that  forms  its  south- 
ern boundary.  The  great  evaporation  on  the 
sandy  soil  of  this  elevated  plain,  and  the  sa- 
line efflorescences  which  whiten  the  ground, 
and  shine  like  lakes  reflecting  the  sun,  make 
a  soil  wholly  unfit  for  cultivation. 

Attgusl  3. — We  were  early  on  the  road 
the  next  morning,  travelling  along  the  up- 
land part  of  the  valley,  which  is  overgrown 
with  artemisia.  Scattered  about  on  the 
plain  are  occasional  small  isolated  hills. 
One  of  these  which  I  have  examined,  about 
fifty  feet  high,  consisted  of  white  clay  and 
marl,  in  nearly  horizontal  strata.  Several 
bands  of  bu^o  made  their  appearance  to* 


"^Ih- 


p 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


11843 


day,  with  herds  of  antelope  ;  and  a  grizzly 
bt'ur — the  only  onn  we  enruiintcrcd  durinjf 
the  JDurncy — was  seen  Bcruinblinf;r  up  aniun^ 
the  rocks.  As  wc  passed  over  a  sliijht  rise 
near  the  river,  wo  cauj^'lit  the  (irtit  view  of 
the  Wind  river  mouniains,  appcarin<^,  at  this 
distance  ot  about  seventy  miles,  to  be  a  low 
and  dark  mountainous  ridjre.  The  view  dis- 
sipated in  a  moment  the  pictures  which  had 
been  created  in  our  minds,  by  many  descrip- 
tions of  travellers,  who  have  compared  these 
mountains  to  the  Alps  in  Switzerland,  and 
speak  ut  the  glittering'  peaks  which  rise  in 
icy  majesty  amidst  ti.e  eternal  glaciers  nine 
or  (en  thousand  feet  into  the  regioi.  of  eter- 
nal snows.  The  nakedness  of  the  river  was 
relieved  by  groves  of  willows,  where  we  en- 
camped at  night,  uftci  a  march  ofiwcnty-six 
mi'>es:  and  numeious  bright-colored  ilower^ 
had  made  the  rivtr  bottom  look  gay  as  a  gar- 
den. Wo  found  hero  a  horse,  which  nnd 
iH'en  abandoned  ty  the  Indians,  l^cause  his 
IiooIh  had  been  bc  mjch  worn  tliat  he  was 
unable  to  tra.'el ;  anil  >iuring  the  night  a  dog 
came  into  the  camp. 

August  4. — O.ir  camp  was  at  the  foot  of 
the  granite  mountains,  which  we  climbed 
this  morning  tu  take  some  barometrical 
heights ;  and  here  among  the  rocks  was  boen 
the  first  magpie.  On  our  return,  wo  saw 
one  at  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  river.  We 
left  hero  one  of  our  horses,  which  was  una- 
ble to  p.'oceed  farther.  A  few  miles  from 
the  encampment  we  left  the  river,  which 
makes  a  bend  to  the  soutli,  and  traversing 
an  undulating  country,  consisting  of  a  grey- 
ish micaceous  sandstone  and  tine-grained 
conglomerates,  struck  it  again,  and  encamp- 
ed, after  a  journey  of  twenty-five  miles.  An- 
tronomical  observations  placed  us  in  latitude 
42°  32^  30",  and  longitude  108°  30'  13" 

August  5. — The  morning  waa  dark,  with 
a  driving  rain,  and  disagreeably  cold.  We 
continued  our  route  as  usual ;  but  the  wea- 
ther became  so  bad,  that  we  were  glad  to 
avail  ourselves  of  the  shelter  offered  ',y  a 
small  island,  about  ten  miles  above  our  last 
encampment,  which  was  covered  with  a 
dense  growth  of  willows.  There  was  fine 
grass  for  our  animals,  and  the  timber  afforded 
us  comfortable  protection  and  good  fires.  In 
the  afternoon,  the  sun  broke  through  the 
clouds  for  a  short  time,  and  the  barometer  at 
6,  p.  m,,  was  at  23.713,  the  thermometer  60°, 
with  the  wind  strong  from  the  northwest. 
We  availed  ourselves  of  the  fine  weather  to 
make  excursions  in  the  neighborhood.  The 
river,  at  this  place,  is  bordered  by  hills  of  the 
valley  formation.  They  are  of  moderate 
height ;  one  of  the  highest  peaks  on  the  right 
bank  being,  according  to  the  barometer,  one 
hundred  and  eighty  feet  above  the  river.  On 
the  left  bank  they  are  higher.  They  consist 
of  a  fine  white  clayey  sandstone,  a  white 


calcareous  sandstone,  and  coarse  sandstono 
or  pudding  stonj. 

AiiiTusl  a. — It  continued  steadily  raining 
all  the  day  ;  b'.it,  notwithstanding,  wc  lefloni 
cnciimpment  in  the  afternoon.  Our  animals 
hiul  been  mich  refreshed  by  their  repose, 
and  an  abunoance  of  ricii,  soil  grass,  which 
had  been  niucli  improved  by  the  rains.  In 
about  three  miles,  we  reached  the  entrance 
of  a  kfnii/on,  where  the  Sweet  Water  issues 
upon  the  more  open  valley  we  had  piissed 
over.  Immediately  at  the  entrance,  and  su- 
perimposed directly  upon  the  granite,  are 
strata  of  compact  calcareous  sandstone  and 
chert,  alternating  with  fine  wliite  and  reddish 
white,  and  fine  grey  and  red  sandstones. 
These  strata  dip  to  the  eastward  at  an  unple 
of  ibout  18o,  and  form  the  western  limit  of 
the  sandstone  and  limestone  formations  on 
the  line  of  our  route.  Here  we  entered 
among  the  primitive  rocks.  The  usual  road 
passert  to  the  right  of  this  place;  but  we 
wounc',  or  rather  scrambled,  our  way  uu  the 
narrow  valley  for  several  hours.  VVildness 
and  disorder  were  the  character  of  this 
scenery.  The  river  had  been  swollen  by  the 
late  rains,  and  came  rushing  through  with 
an  impetuous  current,  three  or  four  feet  deej), 
and  generally  twenty  yards  broad.  The  val- 
ley was  sometimes  the  breadtli  of  the  stream, 
and  sometimes  opened  into  little  green  mea- 
dows, sixty  yards  wide,  with  open  groves  of 
aspen,  llie  stream  was  bordered  through- 
out with  aspen,  beech,  and  willow ;  and  toll 
pines  grew  on  the  sides  and  summits  of  the 
crags.  On  both  sides,  the  granite  rocks  rose 
precipitously  to  the  height  of  three  hundred 
and  five  hundred  feet,  terminating  in  jagged 
and  broken  pointed  peaks ;  and  fragments  of 
fallen  rock  la  /  piled  up  at  the  foot  of  the  pre- 
cipices. Gneiss,  mica  slate,  and  a  white 
granite,  were  among  tiie  varieties  I  noticed. 
Here  were  many  old  traces  of  beaver  on  the 
stream  ;  remnants  of  dams,  near  which  were 
lying  trees,  whicii  tliey*  had  cut  down,  one 
and  two  feet  in  diameter.  The  hills  entirely 
shut  up  the  river  at  the  end  of  about  five 
miles,  and  we  turned  up  a  ravine  that  led  to 
a  high  prairie,  which  seemed  to  be  the  gene- 
ral level  of  the  country.  Hence,  to  the  sum- 
mit of  the  ridge,  there  is  a  regular  and  very 
gradual  rise.  Blocks  of  granite  were  piled  up 
at  the  heads  of  the  ravines,  and  small  bare 
knolls  of  mica  slate  and  milky  quartz  pro- 
truded at  frequent  intervals  on  the  prairie, 
which  was  whitened  in  occasional  spots  with 
small  salt  lakes,  where  the  water  had  evapo- 
rated, and  left  the  bed  covered  with  a  shin- 
ing incrustation  of  salt.  The  evening  was 
very  cold,  a  northwest  wind  driving  a  fine 
rain  in  our  faces ;  and  at  nightfall  we  de- 
scended to  a  little  stream,  on  which  we  en- 
camped, about  two  miles  from  the  Sweet 
Water.    Hero  had  recently  been  a  very 


.j*»^"  ''«ii 


I 


11843 

no,  and  coarse  Bandatone 

)ntinupd  steadily  ruining 
iiwitlmtiuulinff,  we  left  oiii 
iiltprnoon.     Our  animals 
irpshed   by  their  repose, 
il'  rieii,  soil  prass,  wliirli 
proved  by  the  rains.     In 
we  readied  the  entrance 
the  Sweet  Water  ismics 
?ii  valley  we  had  piissed 
at  the  entrance,  and  fii- 
y   upon  the  pranite,  are 
calcareous  sandstone  anfi 
vith  line  white  and  reddish 
rcy  and   red  sandstones. 
I  the  eastward  at  an  iin^^le 
orni  the  western  limit  1)1 
limestone  I'orniations  on 
oute.     Here   we   entered 
'e  rocks.    The  usual  road 
it  of  this  place ;  but  we 
orambled,  our  way  ui)  the 
ieveral  hours.     VVildne.'is 
15   the   character    of  this 
?r  had  been  swollen  by  the 
ne  rushing  through  with 
?nt,  three  or  four  feet  deep, 
ity  yards  broad.    The  val- 
the  breadtli  of  the  stream, 
ned  into  little  green  mea- 
vide,  with  open  groves  of 
no  was  bordered  ilirough- 
;ch,  and  willow ;  and  tail 
sides  and  summits  of  the 
ides,  the  granite  rocks  rose 
3  height  of  three  hundred 
•et,  terminating  in  jagged 
I  peaks ;  and  fragments  of 
d  up  at  the  foot  of  the  nre- 
mica  slate,  and  a  white 
ng  the  varieties  I  noticed. 
Id  traces  of  beaver  on  the 
of  dame,  near  which  were 
Uiey  had  cut  down,  one 
meter.    The  hills  entirely 
at  the  end  of  about  five 
ed  up  a  ravine  that  led  to 
ch  seemed  to  be  the  gene- 
ntry.    Hence,  to  the  sum- 
ere  is  a  regular  and  very 
ks  of  granite  were  piled  up 
le  ravines,  and  small  bare 
e  and  milky  quartz  pro- 
intervals  on  the  prairie, 
;d  in  occasional  spots  with 
here  the  water  had  evapo- 
bed  covered  with  a  shin- 
salt.    The  evening  was 
vest  wind  driving  a  tine 
and  at  nightfall  we  de- 
stream,  on  which  we  en- 

0  miles  from  the  Sweet 

1  recently  been  a  very 


1843.] 


(.".M'T.  FUi;.\i()\T\s  N.\uii\rivi;. 


large  camp  of  Hnak)*  and  ('row  Indians  ;  and 
some  lar;,'(«  pi.lcH  lying  about  al1i)r(li>d  the 
means  ol  pitching  a  tent,  and  iiiuking  other 
places  of  .-ihelter.  Our  lires  to-night  were 
made  principally  of  the  dry  branche.s  of  the 
iirtcini.^ia,  which  covered  the  hI(i|)c.s.  It 
bums  ipiickly,  with  a  clear  oily  llaiiie,  and 
iiiakcH  a  hot  firu.  The  hills  hero  are  com- 
IKjsed  of  hard,  compact  micaslate,  with  veins 
of  quart/,. 

Aiifriisi  7. — We  left  our  encampment  with 
the  rirtiiig  nun.  As  we  ro.se  from  the  bed  of 
the  creek,  the  snow  lino  of  the  moiiniiiins 
stretched  grandly  before  us,  the  wliiti*  peaks 
glittering  in  the  huh,  They  had  been  hid- 
den in  the  dark  weather  of  the  last  fewday.x, 
;iiid  it  had  been  stwwinir  on  them,  while  it 
rained  in  the  plain.s.  We  crr.ssed  a  ridge, 
and  again  struck  the  Hweet  Water — here  a 
beautiful,  swift  stream,  with  a  more  open 
valley,  timbered  with  beech  and  cotton  wo(jd. 
It  now  began  to  lose  itself  in  the  many  small 
forks  wiiich  make  its  head ;  and  we  conti- 
nued up  the  main  stream  until  near  noon, 
when  we  left  it  a  few  miles,  to  make  our 
noon  halt  on  a  small  creek  among  the  hills, 
from  which  the  stream  issues  by  a  small 
opening.  Within  was  a  beautiful  grassy 
spot,  covered  with  an  open  grove  of  large 
beech  trees,  among  which  I  found  several 
plants  that  I  had  not  previously  seen. 

The  afternoon  was  cloudy,  with  s()iialls  of 
rain ;  but  the  weather  became  fine  at  sun- 
set, when  we  again  encamped  on  the  Sweet 
Water,  within  a  few  miles  of  the  South 
Pass.  The  country  over  which  we  have 
passed  to-day  consists  principally  of  the 
compact  mica  slate,  which  crops  out  on  all 
ridges,  making  the  uplands  very  rocky  and 
slaty.  In  the  escarpments  which  border  the 
creeks,  it  is  seen  alternating  with  a  light- 
colored  granite,  at  an  inclination  of  45°; 
the  beds  varying  in  thickness  from  two  or 
three  feet  to  si.x  or  eight  hundred.  At  a  dis- 
tance, the  granite  frequently  has  the  appear- 
ance of  irregular  lumps  of  clay,  hardened 
by  exposure.  A  variety  of  asters  may  now 
be  numbered  among  the  characteristic 
plants,  and  the  artemisia  continues  in  full 
glory ;  but  cacti  have  become  rare,  and 
mosses  begin  to  dispute  the  hills  with  them. 
The  evening  was  damp  and  unpleasant ;  the 
thermometer,  at  10  o'clock,  being  at  36°, 
and  tlie  grass  wet  with  a  heavy  dew.  Our 
astronomical  observations  placed  this  en- 
campment in  longitude  109°  21 '  32'^  and 
latitude  42°  27'  16". 

Early  in  the  morning  we  resumed  our 
journey,  the  weather  still  cloudy,  with  occa- 
■ional  rain.  Our  ger  eral  course  was  west, 
as  I  had  determined  to  cross  the  dividing 
ridge  by  a  bridle  path  among  the  broken 
country  more  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  and  return  by  the  wagon  road. 


two  and  a  hilf  iiiile^  to  the  houlh  of  the  point 
wlu're  llii-  lr;iil  cros.^ivs. 

Alidiii  >i'\K  inilc-t  Iriiiii  our  ciicampinent 
l)rciii|r|it  us  to  the  hiiiiiiiiit.  Tlii<  a.sci'iit  had 
been  Ko  gradual,  that,  willi  all  (he  intimate 
knowli'dge  pd.sscs.scd  by  ('arson,  who  had 
inadi!  this  cot  iitry  lii^  lunuo  for  ^oveiiteen 
years,  wo  were  oijliged  to  watch  very  close- 
ly to  liiid  till*  plate  at  wliicli  wc  had  reached 
the  culiniiiattiig  wint.  This  was  liclween 
two  low  hills,  risiii,;  on  either  band  lilly  or 
si.xty  leet.  When  I  looked  back  at  tlieiii 
from  the  font  oi  the  'inmediate  slopi  on  the 
western  plain,  their  seiniiiits  appeared  tc  be 
about  one  hundred  an  I  twe.i'y  feet  atx)\e. 
From  the  iuipression  oii  my  iiiiud  at  tlii.< 
time,  and  subseipietitly  on  our  retinii,  I 
should  compare  the  elevation  which  we  Kur- 
moiinled  immediately  at  the  Pass,  to  the  as- 
cent of  the  Capitol  bill  from  the  avenue,  at 
Washington,  it  is  dilFicult  for  ine  lo  lix 
positively  the  breadth  of  this  pass.  From 
the  broken  ground  whore  it  commences,  at 
the  foot  of  the  Wind  river  chain,  the  view 
to  the  southeast  is  over  a  champaign  coun- 
try, broken,  at  the  distance  of  nineteen  niile.s, 
by  the  Table  rock;  which,  with  the  other 
isolated  hills  in  its  vicinity,  seems  to  stand 
on  a  comparative  plain.  This  I  judired  to  be 
its  termination,  the  ridge  recovering  its  rug- 
ged character  with  the  Table  rock.  It  will 
be  seen  that  it  in  no  manner  resembles  the 
places  to  which  the  term  is  commonly  ap- 
plied— nothing  of  the  gorge-like  character 
and  winding  ascents  of  the  Alleghany  pass- 
es in  America;  nothing  of  the  Great  St. 
Bernard  and  Simplon  passes  in  Europe. 
Approaching  it  from  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet 
Water,  a  sandy  plain,  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  long,  conducts,  by  a  gradual 
and  regular  ascent,  to  the  summit,  about 
seven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea;  and  the 
traveller,  without  being  reminded  of  any 
change  by  toilsome  ascents,  suddenly  finds 
himself  oi  the  waters  which  flow  to  the  Pa- 
ciKc  ocean.  By  the  route  we  had  travelled, 
the  distance  from  Fort  Laramie  is  three  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles,  or  nine  hundred  and 
fifty  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas. 

Continuing  our  march,  we  reached,  in 
eight  miles  from  the  Pass,  the  Little  Sandy, 
one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Colorado,  or 
Green  river  of  the  Gulf  of  California.  The 
weather  had  grown  fine  during  the  morning, 
and  we  remained  here  the  rest  of  the  day, 
to  dry  our  baggage  and  take  some  astrono- 
mical observations.  The  stream  was  about 
forty  feet  wide,  and  two  or  three  deep,  with 
clear  water  and  a  full  swift  current,  over  a 
sandy  bed.  It  was  timbered  with  a  growth 
of  low  bushy  and  dense  willows,  among 
which  were  little  verdant  spots,  which  gave 
our  animals  fine  grass,  and  where  I  found  a 
number  of  interesting  plants.     Among  Um 


\jp*»r^' "ft-*^ 


.^fc.tai^rtjjwt'iaa 


40 


CAl'T.  FlUIMONTS  NAIIRATIVE. 


[184d. 


f 


18 


Ml|;htx)riii);  hills  F  )ii)tli-cil  rrii<;;iK>nt>*  iif 
granite  coiidiiMin);  iiui^rtirtic,  iron.  I<(iii);i- 
tiuloot'  till'  ('ain|)wiiH  lU!)^  37  At)',  uiiil  lati- 
tudo  I'i'  '27  :i »' . 

.■li(i,'i(.<i/ii. — Wii  mailo  oiir  noon  Imit  to- 
day on  Wi'S  Sandy,  iinollior  trilintary  of  (iroon 
river.  Tlio  liice  of  tin)  country  traviTsod 
was  of  a  lirowii  »and  of  firmnitc  inatcrial.i, 
the  iliiriliiH  of  the  neiKhl)orin|i{  inoimtains. 
Kiratii  of  the  milky  (jnartz  rro|ined  out,  and 
l)l(i('l<M  of  (Truiiito  wi'ro  ocattored  about,  ron- 
tainini;  inujfnolic  iron.  On  Sandy  creek  the 
formation  was  of  parti-i  ol.ired  nhikI,  exhibit- 
ed in  e-HcariimentH  (illy  to  eif;hiy  feel  high. 
In  the  aftoriioon  wo  bad  a  Hevore  storm  of 
liail,  and  encamiii'd  ai  wunsct  on  the  first 
New  Fork.  Witliin  the  space  of  i  few  mi!c(«, 
the  Wii.il  niciinlaitiR  supply  anuniherof  tri- 
bntarieH  to  (ireeii  rivei ,  whicli  are  called  the 
New  Folks.  Near  our  camp  wo  c  two  re- 
inarkabla  isolated  hills,  ono  of  them  siifli- 
ciently  large  to  merit  tho  name  of  nountain. 
They  are  calUd  the  'i  wo  Buttcs,  and  will 
servo  to  identify  tfio  place  of  our  encamp- 
nient,  which  the  observations  of  the  evening 
placed  in  longitude  109'  58'  11",  and  lati- 
tude Vi°  4U'  46".  On  tlie  right  bank  of  the 
Ktream,  opposite  to  the  large  Iiill,  tho  strata 
which  are  displayed  consist  of  decomposing 
granite,  which  supplies  tho  brown  sand  ol 
which  tho  face  of  tho  country  is  composed 
to  a  considerable  depth. 

Augur.t  10. — The  air  at  sunrise  is  clear 
and  pure,  and  tho  morning  extremely  cold, 
but  beautiful.  A  lolly  snow  peak  of  the 
mountain  is  glittering  in  tho  first  rays  of  the 
sun,  which  has  not  yet  reached  us.  The 
long  mountain  wall  to  the  east,  rising  two 
thousand  feet  abruptly  from  the  plain,  iSjhind 
which  we  see  the  peaks,  is  stiii  dark,  and 
cuts  clear  against  tlie  glowing  sky.  A  fog, 
just  risen  from  the  river,  lies  alotig  the  base 
uf  the  mountain.  A  little  before  sunrise,  the 
thermometer  was  at  35°,  and  at  sunrise  33°. 
Water  froze  last  night,  and  fires  are  very 
comfortable.  The  scenery  becomes  hourly 
more  interesting  and  grand,  and  the  view 
mere  is  trulv  magniticent;  but,  indeed,  it 
i.ieeds  somei  ing  to  repay  the  long  prairie 
journey  of  a  thousand  miles.  The  sun  has 
just  shot  above  tho  wall,  and  makes  a  magic- 
al change.  The  whole  valley  is  glowing  and 
bright,  and  all  the  mountain  peaks  are  gleam- 
ing like  silver.  Though  these  snow  moun- 
tains are  not  the  Alps,  they  have  their  own 
character  of  grandeur  and  magnificence,  and 
will  doubtless  find  pens  and  |)encil8  to  do 
them  justice.  In  the  scene  before  us,  we 
feel  how  much  wood  improves  a  view.  The 
pines  on  the  mountain  seemed  to  give  it  much 
additional  beauty.  I  was  agreeably  disap- 
pointed in  the  character  of  the  streams  on 
this  side  of  the  ridge.  Instead  of  the  creek.s, 
which  description  had  led  me  to  e.vpect,  I 


lind  bold,  broad  streatn^',  with  three  or  four 
feet  >viiter,  and  a  rapid  ciirreiit.  'I"he  tnrk 
on  which  wo  are  encam|)ed  is  iipwan!-*  oi  a 
hundred  lect  wide,  timbered  with  ^-roves  or 
tliicketi  of  the  low  willow.  We  were  now 
ap|iroacliing  the  loftiest  part  of  tiie  Wind 
river  chain;  and  1  lell  the  valley  a  few  miles 
from  our  enrampment,  intending'  to  penetrato 
the  mountains  us  far  ns  [Hissible  with  tho 
whole  party.  We  wore  noon  involved  in 
very  broken  group  I, among  long  ridges  cover- 
ed with  fragments  of  granite.  Winding  our 
way  up  a  long  ravine,  we  came  inie.xpected- 
ly  in  view  of  a  most  beautiful  hike,  sot  like 
a  gem  in  tho  inountHins.  Tho  sheet  of  wa- 
ter lay  transversely  i  cross  tho  direction  wo 
had  been  pursuing,  and,  descending  the 
stoop,  rocky  ridge,  wh^^ro  it  was  iiecensary  to 
lead  our  horses,  wo  followed  its  banks  to  the 
southern  extremity.  Here  a  view  of  the  ut- 
most magnificence  and  grandeur  burst  upon 
our  eyes.  With  nothing  between  us  and 
their  leet  to  lessen  tho  etlurt  of  the  whole 
height,  a  grand  bed  of  snow-capped  moun- 
tains rose  before  us,  pile  upon  pile,  glowing 
in  tho  bright  light  of  an  Augui<t  day.  Inn 
mediately  below  them  lay  the  lake,  between 
two  ridges,  covered  with  dark  pines,  which 
swept  down  from  the  main  chain  to  the  spot 
where  we  stood.  Here,  where  tho  lake  glit- 
tered in  the  open  sunlight,  its  banks  of  yellow 
sand  and  the  light  foliage  of  aspen  groves 
contrasted  well  with  the  gloomy  pines. 
"  Never  before,"  said  Mr.  I'reuss,  "  in  tliia 
country  or  in  Europe,  have  I  soon  such  mag- 
nificent, grand  rocks."  I  was  so  much 
jileascd  with  the  beauty  of  the  place,  that  I 
determined  to  make  the  main  camp  hore, 
where  our  animals  would  find  good  pastur- 
age, and  explore  the  mountains  with  a  small 
party  of  men.  Proceeding  a  little  further, 
we  came  suddenly  upon  the  outlet  of  tlie 
lake,  where  it  found  its  way  through  a  narrow 
passage  between  low  lulls.  I>drk  pines, 
which  overhung  the  stream,  and  masses  of 
rock,  where  the  water  foamed  along,  gave  it 
much  romantic  beauty.  Where  wo  crossed, 
which  was  immediately  at  the  outlet,  it  is  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide,  and  so  deep  that 
with  difficulty  we  were  able  to  ford  it.  Its 
bed  was  an  accumulation  of  rocks,  boulders, 
and  broad  slabs,  and  large  angular  fragments, 
among  which  the  animals  fell  repeatedly. 

The  current  was  very  swift,  and  the  water 
cold,  and  of  a  crystal  purity.  In  crossing 
this  stream,  I  met  with  a  great  misfortune 
in  having  my  barometer  broKon.  It  was  the 
only  one.  A  great  part  of  the  interest  ol 
the  journey  for  mo  was  in  the  exploration  of 
these  mountains,  of  wnich  so  much  had 
been  said  that  was  doubtful  and  contradict 
ory ;  and  now  their  snowy  peaks  rose  laa- 
jestically  before  me,  and  the  only  means  of 
giving  them  authentically  to  science,  th( 


[184J. 


1842.  J 


TAl'T.  FUKMONTS  NARIlATIVr.. 


4] 


iiiri-',  Willi  llirpp  nr  four 
ii|ijil  ciirri'iit.  'I'hf  I'irk 
:'.iiin|)('<i  is  ii|nvaril-i  oi  a 
inilicri'il  witli  (.'roves  or 
willow.  We  wore  now 
ticst  purt  of  tiio  Wind 
L'l>  tlif  valloy*  t'«!W  miles 

It,  inti'tlllllli.'  Id  ptMIOtrHtO 

iir  as  jKissiblo  with  llio 

wiTo  soon  involved  in 
finion^r  lonj;  ridijos  cover- 
t' granite.  Windinff  our 
0,  wo  ciimc  unexpected- 
I  lioaiitifMl  luki',  Kcl  like 
nins,  Tlie  sliui't  of  wa- 
t  cross  tlm  iliri'ction  wo 
and,  dcsccndinjr  the 
hi»ro  it  WHS  necpi'.sury  to 
followed  it.s  JKinks  to  the 

Here  a  view  of  the  ut- 
ind  ifrandeiir  hurst  upon 
othinjj  between   us  and 

the  oH'oct  of  the  whole 

of  snow-capped  moun- 
,  pile  upon  [)ilo,  glowing 
>l  an  August  day.  Im- 
m  lay  the  lake,  between 
with  dark  pines,  which 
Q  main  chain  to  the  spot 
lere,  where  the  lake  glit- 
dight,  its  banks  of  yefiow 
tbiiage  of  aspen  groves 
illi  the  gloomy  pines, 
id  Mr.  Preuss,  "  in  this 
B,  have  I  seen  such  mag- 
ks,"  I  was  80  much 
auty  of  the  place,  that  I 
0  the  main  camp  iiere, 
would  lind  good  pastur- 
)  mountains  with  a  small 
ceeding  a  little  further, 

upon  the  outlet  of  the 
its  way  through  a  narrow 
ow  hilla.      l>drk  pines, 

stream,  and  masses  of 
er  foamed  along,  gave  it 
ity.  Where  we  crossed, 
tely  at  the  outlet,  it  is  two 
ct  wide,  and  so  deep  that 
ere  able  to  ford  it.  Its 
lation  of  rocks,  boulders, 
large  angular  fragments, 
limala  fell  repeatedly, 
very  swift,  and  the  water 
tal  purity.  In  crossing 
vith  a  great  misfortune 
eter  broken.    It  was  the 

part  of  the  interest  ot 
vas  in  the  exploration  of 
if  wnieh  so  much  liad 
doubtful  and  contradict 
r  snowy  peaks  rose  ina- 
,  and  the  only  means  of 
ntically  to  science,  tht 


oliject  of  my  aiixioun  hoIIi  I'lido  by  nii>lil  :iiid 
day,  was  dcHlroyed.  We  i  m!  brouglit  thii 
baroinoti.'r  in  Hal'cty  a  ll  u  iiid  inilen,  and 
liroke  it  almost  anmiig  tlii>  snow  ol  tlii> 
iiiountains.  Tin'  li>.-s  was  Irit  by  the  wlmle 
<'amp — all  had  feeii  inv  aiixicly.  nnil  aidi'd 
111!'  in  jirexTving  it.  Tlic  heiglit  nl  ilic.-i' 
jjiiiiintainH,  ccinsidr'ri'd  by  tli(>  liiintcrH  iiiid 
trailers  llu'  liigbi'st  in  the  whole  range,  had 
'"•en  a  iIumhc  ol  consla.it  disciissiim  among 
ilii'in  ;  and  all  had  looked  Ibrward  with  plea- 
fiiirc  to  ibc  moment  when  the  instrument, 
which  they  believed  to  be  true  as  the  snii, 
>liuiiLI  st.'ind  upon  the  summits,  and  deride 
ilieir  disputes.  Tiieir  grief  was  only  inferior 
lo  my  own. 

'I'he  lake  is  about  three  miles  long,  and  of 
v.rv  irregular  width,  and  apimrenlly  great 
l^■plll,an(l  is  the  head  water  ot  the  third  New 
'"ork,  a  tributary  to  (Jrecn  river,  the  (/"olo- 
•".ido  of  the  west.  In  the  narrative,  I  have 
•ailed  it  Mountain  lake.  I  encamjied  on  the 
mirth  side,  about  three  iiundred  and  fifty 
•  ards  from  the  outlet.  This  was  the  most 
.vestern  jioint  at  which  I  obtained  astro- 
loniical  observations,  by  wliich  this  place, 
•ailed  Ucrnier's  encampment,  is  made  in 
llO'^OSOS"  west  longitude  l'rom(ireenwich, 
and  latitude  43°  49'  49".  The  mountain 
peaks,  as  laid  down,  were  fixed  by  l)earings 
li'oin  this  and  other  astronomical  points.  We 
bad  no  other  compass  than  the  small  ones 
used  in  sketching  the  country,  but  from  an 
azimuth,  in  whiclione  of  them  was  used,  the 
variation  of  the  compass  is  18°  cast.  The 
correction  made  in  oi\r  field  work  by  the  as- 
tronomical observations  indicates  tliat  this 
is  a  very  correct  observation. 

As  soon  as  the  camp  was  formed,  I  set 
about  endeavoring  to  repair  my  barometer. 
As  I  have  already  said,  this  was  a  standard 
cistern  barometer,  of  Troiighton's  con- 
struction. Tlie  glass  cistern  had  been 
broken  about  midway ;  but  as  the  instrument 
had  been  kept  in  a  proper  position,  no  air  had 
found  its  way  into  the  tube,  the  end  of  which 
had  always  remained  covered.  I  iiad  with 
me  a  number  of  vials  of  tolerably  thick  glass, 
some  of  which  were  of  the  same  diameter 
as  the  cistern,  and  I  spent  the  day  in  slowly 
working  on  these,  endeavoring  to  cut  them 
of  the  requisite  length ;  but,  as  my  instru- 
ment was  a  very  rough  file,  I  invariably 
l>roke  them.  A  groove  was  cut  in  one  of  the 
trees,  where  the  barometer  was  placed  du- 
ring the  night,  to  be  out  of  the  way  of  any 
possible  danger,  and  in  the  morning  I  com- 
menced again.  Among  the  jwwder  horns 
in  the  camp,  I  found  one  which  was  very 
transparent,  so  that  its  contents  could  be 
almost  as  plainly  seen  as  through  glass. 
This  I  boiled  and  stretched  on  a  piece  of 
wood  to  the  re<iui6ite  diameter  and  scraped 


It  viTV  'bin,  in  order  to  incn^n'e  to  liie  ut- 
innst  its  transpurenry.  I  then  secured  it 
lirinly  in  lU  place  mi  the  instriiini'ni.  with 
stroiit;  i^'ine  made  Inmi  a  buil'iln,  and  lilli'd  it 
with  mercury,  pr(i|perly  licalcd.  A  piece  of 
skin,  wlil<'li  bad  coviTcd  ntie  nf  the  vials, 
fnrni.ilii'il  a  uciod  |)(ickct,  which  was  well  de- 
cured  with  strong  thread  and  ulne,  and  then 
the  brass  cover  was  screwed  to  iN  place. 
'I'he  in.itrnnieiit  «as  lelt  some  linie  lo  dry  ; 
and  when  I  reversed  it,  a  ti  w  honrs  niter,  I 
had  tlieHatisfartiiu)  to  lind  it  in  jierli'd  order; 
Its  indications  being  iilHuit  the  same  as  on 
the  <itlier  side  of  the  lake  U'lore  it  IkkI  been 
broken.  Our  success  in  Ibis  little  ininlent 
dilVnsed  pleasure  throughout  the  camp  :  and 
we  immediately  set  about  our  preparations 
for  ascending  the  mountains. 

As  will  be  seen  on  reference  to  a  rnnp,  on 
this  short  mountain  chain  are  the  head  waters 
of  four  great  rivers  of  the  continent;  niimt'ly, 
the  ('olorado,  t^olumbia,  Missouri,  and  I'latfe 
rivers.  It  had  been  my  design,  after  having 
ascended  the  mountains,  to  continue  our  route 
on  the  western  side  of  the  range,  and  cross- 
ing througli  11  pass  at  the  northwestern  end 
of  the  chain,  about  thirty  miles  fmin  our 
present  camp,  return  along  the  eastern  slope, 
across  the  heads  of  the  Yellowstone  river, 
and  join  on  the  line  to  our  station  of  August 
7,  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  riil^'e.  In 
this  way,  I  should  be  enabled  to  include  the 
whole  chain,  and  its  numerous  waters,  in  my 
survey;  but  various  considerationii  induced 
me,  very  reluctantly,  to  abandon  this  jilan. 

I  was  desirous  to  keep  strictly  within  the 
scope  of  my  instructions  ;  and  it  would  have 
required  ten  or  fifteen  additional  days  for  the 
accomplishment  of  this  object;  our  animals 
had  become  very  much  worn  out  with  the 
length  of  the  journey ;  game  was  very  scarce; 
and,  though  it  docs  not  appear  in  the  course 
of  the  narrative  (as  I  have  avoided  dwelling 
upon  trifling  incidents  not  connected  with  the 
objects  of  tlie  expedition),  the  spirits  of  the 
men  had  been  much  exhausted  by  the  hard- 
ships and  privations  to  which  they  Imd  been 
subjected.  Our  provisions  had  wellnigh  all 
disappeared.  Bread  had  been  long  out  of  the 
question ;  and  of  all  our  stock,  we  liad  re- 
maining two  or  three  pounds  of  colVee,  and  a 
small  f!"antitv  of  maccaroni,  which  had  been 
husbanded  with  great  care  for  the  mountain 
expedition  iva  were  about  to  undertake.  Our 
daily  meal  consisted  of  dry  bufTalo  meat, 
cooked  in  tallow;  and,  as  we  had  not  dried 
this  vt^ith  Indian  skill,  part  of  it  was  spoiled  , 
and  what  remained  of  good,  was  as  hard  as 
Wood,  having  much  the  taste  and  appearance 
of  so  many  pieces  of  bark.  Even  of  this, 
our  stock  was  rapidly  diminishing  in  a  camp 
which  was  capable  of  consuming  two  buffaloes 
in  every  twenty-four  hours.    Tliose  aniraala 


w^'f'"'^'  "-^m*. 


\     4^==^ 


CAI'T.  KIlKMf)\r-8  NARUATIVi;. 


[1841 


,i   i 


Imd  I'lit'ri'ly  (li->ii|>[i<'nri'cl  ■  iiinl  It  wim  vi\:pi  ■• 
Uibio  tliiii  \vi>  hIiiiiiIiI  lull  ill  with  tliciii  gi^;<  . 
until  wi'  ri'tiiriii'il  ti)  tlu>  Nwci't  WiiliT. 

Our  iiri'iiiiifi'iiii'iitrt  li)r  the  iixcoiit  wrie 
ru|)iilly  ('iiiiiiili'iiMJ.  \V»  vvcrt'  in  ii  lnwlili* 
couiilry,  wliirii  riMiilcrrit  tin*  (;rt?!ilt'»l  sm'i- 
liiiici!  anil  cirriiiurtiH't'linii  ni'iOMWiry.  Tlii' 
pHHs  nt  tlio  iKH'ili  imkI  lit' tilt)  iiKiiiniHiii  WHS 
);i-ncrully  iiilcrtti'il  liy  llliickrrct ;  iiiul  iiniiio- 
liiiitfly  'i|)|>ip^itf  wiiH  (ini^  i>r  llicir  lortu,  mi  tin- 
C(ly;e  ot  ii  lillli'  tliicki't,  two  or  tlirct'  liiiiidrcil 
I'uct  rriiiii  our  (■n('iiiiiiiin>>nt.  Wo  wcrt'  imhIciI 
ill  u  ;;rov(>  n!'  Iii'ocli,  on  tlip  iniir^'lii  of  tlio 
lukc,  mill  II  li'w  liiinilrcil  (vol  htuji,  witli  ii  nar- 
row finttrilliiii  on  the  inni'r  fiiilo,  iKirilornd  Ity 
till)  rorky  ri(l;,f(>. ,  In  tlic  iipptT  end  oT  iIiIh 
grovo  wi'di'iiri'd  u  circular  hiuico  iilxnil  forty 
Uvt  in  diiiiiii'ti'r,  and,  with  tlie  I'l-llud  tiiiil)or 
and  intiTWovi'ii  branchos,  surrounded  it  with 
a  liri'iistwork  livu  li'd  in  hei|;lit.  A  jfap  was 
left  for  a  );at(>on  llio  inner  Hide,  by  which  the 
'iniinaU  wi're  to  ho  driven  in  and  Hociircd, 
wJiilo  the  men  Nle|it  around  tlio  little  work. 
It  wus  half  hidden  by  the  folia^ro ;  and,  ^ar- 
riBoncd  by  twelve  rcHoluto  men,  would  have 
act  at  deliaiu'o  any  bund  of  ti!iva(;i'ii  which 
tnight  chaiico  to  discover  ihcm  in  the  inter- 
val of  our  abaeiico.  Fifteen  of  the  bent 
miller,  with  fourteen  men,  were  Hcleeted  for 
the  inoiintiiin  party.  Our  provisioiiH  coiiHist- 
eil  of  dried  meat  for  two  day*,  with  our  little 
stock  of  coU'eo  and  some  maccaroni.  In  ad- 
Jition  to  till)  barometer  and  a  thermometer,  I 
.ook  with  mo  u  sextant  and  s|)y-^la)<s<,  and 
we  had  of  course  our  compasHCH.  In  charge 
of  the  ciiinp  I  left  Jlernier,  one  of  my  mo«t 
trustworthy  men,  wiio  poasesned  the  most 
deteriniiied  courii(;e. 

Au^uH  12. — Karly  in  the  morning  we  left 
the  camp,  fillecn  in  number,  well  armed,  of 
course,  and  mounted  on  our  best  mules.  A 
pack  animal  curried  uur  proviRions,  with  a 
coffee  pot  and  kettle,  and  tliree  or  four  tin 
cups.  Every  man  had  a  blanket  strapped 
over  lii.-t  saddle,  to  serve  for  his  bed,  and  the 
instruments  were  carried  by  turns  on  their 
backs.  We  entered  directly  on  ronph  and 
rocky  ground ;  and,  just  after  crossing  the 
ridge,  had  the  good  fortune  to  shoot  an  ante- 
lope. We  heard  the  roar,  and  had  a  glimpse 
of  a  waterfall  as  we  rode  along ;  and,  cross- 
ing in  our  way  two  tine  streams,  tributary  to 
the  Colorado,  in  about  two  hours'  ride  we 
readied  flie  top  of  the  first  row  or  range  of 
tiie  mountains.  Here,  again,  a  view  of  the 
most  romantic  beauty  met  our  eyes.  It 
seemed  as  if,  from  the  vast  expanse  of  unin- 
teresting prairie  we  iiad  passed  over.  Nature 
had  collected  all  her  beauties  togettier  in  one 
chosen  place.  We  were  overlooking  a  deep 
valley,  which  was  entirely  occupied  by  three 
lakes,  and  from  the  brink  the  eurrounding 
ridges  rose  precipitously  five  hundred  and  a 
thousand  feet,  covered  with  the  dark  green  of 


I  the  hnlMim  pine,  relieved  i<ii  the  lu'rdernf  tlw 
I  ttlU'  .  itil  tlie  llulil  lolliiu'e  ill  the  H^iK'n. 
I'i  "Y  nil  coininiiiiii'iili'd  wllii  earli  other ;  and 
tilt!  green  of  the  WaliTH.  ciiliililiili  til  lliiilllltlllil 
liikeit  of  ,"  out  depth,  ^llow^l|  thai  It  would  be 
iiii|M)f<Hibiu  to  v.rn**  them,  'i'lie  tiiiriiriKi' 
llliillifexted  by  our  giiiilex  when  tliCHe  iiii|iii'<- 
Biible  obHtacles  Miiddeiily  liiirred  our  prii^reM 
|iri>ved  lliiit  tlii'v  were  iiiiiiuig  the  hiilileii 
treiiMiires  of  the  place,  iiiikiiown  even  to  llie 
wiiiideriii);  li.ipper~i  nt  the  reirimi.  Di'sreiiii- 
iiig  the  hill,  wu  pniceeiled  to  niiiiii-  mir  way 
along  the  mari;iii  to  the  Hi'iiiherii  e\iri'mity. 
A  narrow  «trip  of  mi^fuhir  fratiinenlM  nf  roik 
HoiiictiineH  alliirdeil  a  rough  pnthwiiy  tnr  mir 
mules,  but  generiilly  we  rode  iilniii;  the  shelv- 
ing Hide,  occaHionally  Hcramliliiig  up,  at  a 
coiiHiderablu  risk  of  tiiinbling  buck  into  the 
lake. 

The  slope  was  fre(|iieiitly  ;i()o ;  the  pines 
grew  densely  together,  and  the  ground  was 
covered  with  the  branclies  and  triinkH  of 
trees.  The  air  was  fradriiiit  with  the  odor 
of  the  iiiiiCH ;  and  I  reuli/.ed  this  delii;litfiil 
morning  the  pleasure  of  breiithiiig  that 
iniiuntain  air  wliich  makes  a  coiistaiil,  theme 
of  the  hiintet'ii  piiiiw,  and  wliicli  now  mnde 
us  leel  as  if  we  had  all  been  drinking  Konie  ex- 
hilarating gas.  The  depths  of  this  unex- 
plored foretit  were  a  place  to  delight  the  heart 
of  a  botanist.  There  was  a  rich  undergrowth 
of  plants,  and  numerous  gay-colored  (lowers 
in  Iirilliant  bloom,  Wo  reached  the  outlet  at 
length,  where  some  freshly  barked  willows 
that  lay  in  the  water  showed  that  licaverhad 
been  recently  at  work.  There  were  some 
small  brown  squirrels  jumping  about  in  the 
pines,  and  a  couple  of  large  mallard  ducks 
swimming  about  in  the  stream. 

The  hills  on  this  southern  end  were  low, 
and  the  lake  looked  like  a  mimic  sea,  as  the 
waves  broke  on  the  sandy  beach  in  the  force 
of  a  strong  breeze.  There  was  a  pretty  0|)en 
spot,  with  fine  grass  for  our  mules ;  and 
we  made  our  noon  halt  on  the  beach,  under 
the  shade  of  some  large  hemlocks.  We  re- 
sumed our  journey  after  a  halt  of  alnjut  an 
hour,  making  our  way  up  the  ridge  on  the 
western  side  of  the  lake.  In  search  of 
smoother  ground,  we  rode  a  little  inland ; 
and,  passing  through  groves  of  aspen,  soon 
found  ourselves  again  among  the  pines. 
Emerging  from  these,  we  struck  the  summit 
of  the  ridge  above  the  upper  end  of  the  lake. 
We  had  reached  a  very  elevated  point ; 
and  in  the  valley  below,  and  among  the  hills, 
were  a  number  of  lakes  at  different  levels  ; 
some  two  or  three  hundred  feet  above  oth- 
ers, with  which  they  communicated  by  foam- 
ing torrents.  Even  to  our  great  height,  the 
robr  of  the  cataracts  came  up,  and  we  could 
see  them  leaping  down  in  lines  of  anowjr 
foam.  From  this  scene  of  busy  waters,  we 
turned  abruptly  into  the  stillness  of  a  lorest 


[I84S 

ICMil  III)  tho  IxTiltTof  tllO 

iiti'il  sMili  t'Ki'li  iiilii>r ;  iiiid 

ITH.  CDllllllnll  ti>  IIIIMIIltllJn 

kIiowi'iI  lliill  ll  wniiM  lie 

M    llicin.     'riif    Miriirisic 

rililllH    Wlll'll    tllCHI'    illl|lll<«- 

li'iily  hiitrrd  iiiir  |irii;.rr('»K 
wcri'  iiniiiMi;  llic  hidilrn 
i('i>,  iiiikiiowii  I'Vcii  to  llii' 
III  till'  ri"(riiiii.      Di'hccikI- 

icccilcil  Id  \u;\\\ ir  way 

I  tin-  Hciillicrn  f'\lri'initv. 
ii^riihir  Iritfiincnl:'  nC  rock 
a  roii|;li  pntliuiiy  lor  our 
■  \M'  roilc  iiloiii;  till'  flhf'lv- 
lly  Hcraiiililintr  up,  »c  ii 
tiiuililiii)r  back  into  tliu 

VoqiKMitly  UOo ;  tlie  niiicH 
'iiT,  niicl  llio  proimtl  was 
liraiidiOH  and  trunks  of 
i«  l'ra)rraiit  willi  the  odor 
I  rcali/.t'd  tliirt  d(dii;litl'nl 
isiiri'  of  hri'atliin)^  that 
I  makes  a  roiistanl.  tlitniin 
\fi\  and  wliicli  now  inndc 
all  lu'oii  (Irinkinfr  come  I'x- 
'lie  dc|)llm  ol'  this  iinex- 
I  pla(x>  todoli^ht  the  lieart 
ro  was  a  rich  nndiTurowth 
uroiiH  gay-colored  tlowera 
We  rottcht'd  the  outlet  at 
10  frenhly  Itarkod  willows 
cr  showed  that  Iwavcr  had 
vork.  Thoro  wore  Home 
rels  jumping;  about  in  tho 
lo  of  large  mallard  ducks 
1  the  Btieam. 

i  i<outhern  end  wore  low, 
d  like  a  mimic  t<ea,  aH  tho 
B  Bandy  beach  in  the  force 
There  was  a  pretty  open 
ass  for  our  mules ;  and 
I  halt  on  the  beach,  under 
largo  liemlocks.  We  re- 
after  a  halt  of  alM)ut  an 
way  un  tho  ridge  on  the 
Ihu  lake.  In  search  of 
we  T0(lc  a  little  inland; 
gh  groves  of  aspen,  soon 
again  among  the  pines. 
E!se,  we  struck  the  summit 
the  upper  end  of  the  lake. 
;d  a  very  elevated  point ; 
clow,  and  among  the  hills, 
lakes  at  ditFeront  levels  ; 
hundred  feet  above  oth- 
?y  communicated  by  foam- 
in  to  our  greet  height,  the 
ts  came  up,  and  we  could 
down  in  lines  of  snowy 
scene  of  busy  waters,  we 
to  the  stillness  of  a  lorest. 


.tlJ.) 


CAl'T,   rili;M')\TS  NAUI!  \  I'lVK. 


41 


where  we  foitn  ninoiig  (In-  open  l)oll<  of  tin* 
pilirv,  over  a  lawn  o|  vi-rJiiiit  u'niHK,  liaviii;; 
ttrikintxiv  the  air  of  culliv;ili'd  urouniU. 
Tlii"  led  11^,  aller  a  (iuie,  aiMoii<r  m  ixpes  ol 
rni  k  which  had  no  vei.'etalili'  cnrtli  litit  in 
lioilawM  and  crevice.-',  tlioujrli  nlill  the  pine 
fore»t  continued.  'I'owunl  evi'niii;/,  we 
rercliMl  a  delile,  or  rather  a  hole  in  the 
iiiuuiil;iin'<.  entirely  Hhiit  in  by  dark  piiio- 
covcreil  rocks, 

A  small  stream,  with  a  scarcely  nercepti- 
iili>  current,  (lowed  tiirougli  a  level  Ixjlloin 
ol'  |i('rliap-(  ei^fhty  vanls  widlli,  where  tlie 
l!r.\'*  w;is  saturiiteil  with  writer.  Into  this 
lui'  .null's  were  turned,  and  were  ncillier 
liulilili'd  nor  picketed  during  the  ni^ht,  as  lli(> 
liiu>  pusturai,'!)  took  away  all  teniptiilion  to 
i*!ray;  and  we  made  our  liivouiK;  in  the 
]/iuen.  'riio  surrounding  masses  were  all 
of  LTinite.  While  sujiper  was  being  pre- 
pan'd.  I  set  out  on  an  e.\cursiou  in  the 
iii'lgliiiorJiood,  accoiupanu'd  by  one  of  my 
men.  We  wamiered  alH)Ut  among  the  crags 
anil  ravines  initil  dark,  richly  repaid  I'or  our 
v.alk  by  a  line  collection  of  plants,  many  of 
llieui  in  full  bloom.  Ascending  a  peak  to 
find  tlie  place  of  our  cami),  we  saw  that  the 
little  delile  in  which  we  lay,  communicated 
uiili  the  long  green  valley  of  some  stream, 
wliicli,  here  locked  up  in  the  mountains,  far 
'iway  to  the  south,  found  its  way  in  a  deiue 
lore>t  to  the  plains. 

i-ooking  along  its  upward  course,  it  seem- 
ed to  conduct,  bv  a  smooth  gradual  slope, 
directly  toward  the  peak,  which,  from  long 
coiisiiliation  as  we  approached  the  mountain, 
wo  had  decided  to  bo  tho  highest  of  the 
range.  Pleased  with  tho  discovery  of  so  fine 
a  road  for  the  next  day,  wo  hastened  down  to 
tho  camj)  where  we  arrived  just  in  time  for 
supper.  Our  table  servico  was  rather  scant ; 
and  we  held  tho  meat  in  our  hands,  and  clean 
rocJis  made  good  plates,  on  which  wo  spread 
our  inaccaroni.  Among  all  the  strange  pla- 
ces on  which  wc  had  occasion  to  encamp 
during  our  long  journey,  none  have  loft  so 
vivid  an  impression  on  my  mind  us  tho  camp 
of  this  evening.  The  disorder  of  the  masses 
which  surrounded  us ;  the  little  hole  through 
which  wo  saw  tho  stars  over  iicad ;  the  dark 
pines  where  we  slept ;  and  tho  rocks  lit  up 
with  the  glow  of  our  tires,  made  a  night 
picture  of  very  wild  beauty. 

August  13. — Tho  morning  was  bright  and 
pleasant,  just  cool  enough  to  make  exercise 
agreeable,  and  wo  soon  entered  the  defile  I 
had  seen  tho  preceding  day.  It  was  smooth- 
ly carpeted  with  a  soli  grass,  and  scattered 
over  with  groups  of  flowers,  of  which  yellow 
was  tho  predominant  color.  Sometimes  we 
were  forced,  by  an  occasional  ditKcult  pass, 
to  pick  our  way  on  a  narrow  ledge  along  the 
•He  of  the  delilo,  and  the  mules  were  fre- 
q'lcntly  on  their  knees ;  but  theso  obstruc- 


lioii«  uere  rnre,  and  we  joiiriu'vi'il  on  in  the 
swei  t  mornini;  iiir,  delighted  at  our^rood  jor* 
Mine  in  h;iving  found  such  a  beiiiililul  en* 
traiiri'  to  llie  iiioiiiit.iin<i.  This  mini  cnntiii- 
iii'd  lor  iilioiit  three  milis,  when  we  suddenly 
reaclii'il  its  termiuatinn  in  one  of  the  grand 
views  u  hieli,  at  every  turn,  meet  the  travel- 
ler in  lliis  inagnitii'eiil  region.  Ili'ri'lhe  de- 
lile up  which  we  hud  travelled  opened  out 
into  ll  small  liuvii,  where,  in  a  little  lake,  tho 
sireiim  had  its  source. 

There  were  some  line  nstirs  in  bloom,  but 
all  tlir  llovvering  plants  appeared  to  mtI:  tho 
shelter  of  the  rocks,  and  lo  be  of  lower 
growth  lliiin  below,  us  if  they  loved  the 
wiirmtli  of  the  soil,  and  kent  out  id'  the  way 
of  the  winds.  Immediately  at  our  leet  a 
precipitous  descent  leil  to  a  confusion  of  do- 
iiles,  and  belore  us  rose  tho  mountains  as 
wi.'  have  re|iresent4'd  them  in  the  annexed 
view.  It  is  not  by  the  spkudor  of  far-oil" 
views,  which  have  lent  such  a  glory  to  tho 
Al|)^,  that  these  iinnress  the  mind  ;  but  by  ii 
gigantic  disorder  ol  enormous  mas^es,  and  u 
savage  sublimity  of  naked  rock,  in  wonder- 
ful contrast  with  inniimerabli!  green  spots 
of  a  rich  lloral  beauty,  shut  n|>  in  their  stern 
recesses.  Their  wildness  seems  well  suited 
to  the  character  of  tho  people  who  iidiubit 
tho  country. 

I  determined  to  leave  our  animals  hero, 
and  make  tho  rest  of  our  way  on  foot.  Tho 
peak  appeared  so  near,  that  there  was  no 
doubt  of  our  retiirtiing  before  night ;  and  u 
few  men  were  left  in  charge  of  the  niiiles, 
with  our  provisions  and  blankets.  We  took 
with  us  nothing  but  our  arms  and  instru- 
ments, and,  us  tho  day  had  become  warm, 
the  greater  part  left  our  coats.  Having 
mado  un  early  dinner,  wo  started  again. 
Wo  were  soon  involved  in  tho  most  ragged 
precipices,  nearing  tho  central  chain  very 
slowly,  and  rising  but  little.  The  (irpt  ridge 
hid  a  succession  of  others  ;  and  when,  with 
great  fatigue  and  difTiculty,  we  had  climbed 
up  five  hundred  foot,  it  was  but  to  make  an 
equal  descent  on  tho  other  side ;  all  the.se  in- 
tervening places  wcro  filled  with  small  deep 
lakes,  which  met  the  eye  in  every  direction, 
descending  from  one  level  to  another,  some- 
times unoer  bridges  formed  by  huge  frag- 
ments of  granite,  beneath  which  was  heard 
tho  roar  of  tho  water.  These  constantly  ob- 
structed our  path,  forcing  us  to  make  long 
ditourx;  frequently  obliged  to  retrace  our 
stops,  and  frequently  falling  among  the  rocks. 
Maxwell  was  precipitateif  toward  tho  face 
of  a  precipice,  and  saved  himself  from  going 
over  by  throwing  himself  flat  on  the  ground. 
We  clambered  on,  always  expecting,  with 
every  ridge  that  we  crossed,  to  reach  the  fool 
of  the  peaks,  and  always  disappointed,  unti! 
about  four  o'clock,  when,  pretty  well  worn 
out,  we  readied  the  shoro  ot'  a  little  lake  ia 


44 


CAI'T,  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVK. 


[1843. 


it  ( ■- 
'I  ' 


which  was  a  rocky  island.  We  remained 
here  a  short  limo  to  rest,  and  continued  on 
around  the  liilte,  whicli  had  in  some  places 
a  beach  of  white  sand,  and  in  others  was 
bound  with  rocks,  over  which  the  way  was 
ditlicuit  and  danirerous,  as  the  water  from 
innumerable  springs  made  tliem  very  slip- 
pery. 

By  the  time  we  had  reached  the  further 
side  of  the  lake,  we  found  ourselves  all  ex- 
ceedingiy  fatigued,  and,  much  to  the  satis- 
faction of  Uic  whole  party,  we  encamped. 
The  spot  W3  had  chosen  was  a  broad  flat 
rock,  in  some  measure  protected  from  the 
winds   by  the   surrounding   crags,  and  the 
trunks   of  fallen  pines   afforded  us   bright 
fires.  Near  by  was  a  foaming  torrent,  which 
tumbled  into  the  little  lake  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  below  ns,  and  which,  by 
way  of  distinction,  wo  have  called  Island 
lake.     We  had  reached  the  upper  limit  of 
the  piney  region ;  as,  above  th's  point,  no 
tree  was  to  be  seen,  and  patchsb  of  enow  lay 
everywhere  around  us  on  the  cold  sides  of 
the  rocks.     The  flora  of  the  region  wo  had 
traversed  since  leaving  oiir  mules  was  e.\- 
tremely  rich,  and,  among  the  characteristic 
plants,  the  scarlet  flowers  of  the  dodecatheon 
dentaium  everywhere  met  the  eye  in  great 
abundance.     A  small  green  ravine,  on  the 
edge  of  which  we  were  encamped,  was  filled 
with  a  profusion  of  alpine  plants  in  brilliant 
bloom.      From    barometrical    observations, 
made  during  our  three  dr.ys'  sojourn  at  this 
place,  its  elevation  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
is  10,000  feet.   During  the  day,  we  had  oeen 
no  sign  of  animal  life  ;  but  among  the  rocks 
here,  we  heard  what  was  supposed  to  be  the 
bleat  of  a  young  goat,  which  we  searched 
for  with  hungry  activity,  and  found  to  pro- 
ceed from  a  small  animal  of  a  grey  color, 
with  short  ears  and  no  tail — probably  the 
Siberian  squirrel.     We  saw  a  considerable 
number  of  them,  and,  with  the  exception  of 
a  small  bird  like  a  sparrow,  it  is  the  only 
mhabitant  of  tliis  elevated  part  of  the  moun- 
tains.    On  our  return,  we  saw,  below  this 
lake,  large  flocks  of  the  mountain  goat.  We 
had  nothing  to  eat  to-night.      Lajeunesse, 
with   several  others,  took  their  guns,  and 
tallied  out  in  search  of  a  goat ;  but  returned 
unsuccessful.       At  sunset,   the   barometer 
stood  at  20.522 ;  the  attached  thermometer 
60°.    Here  we  had  the  misfortune  to  break 
our  thermometer,  having  now  only  that  at- 
tached to  the  barometer.    I  was  taken  ill 
shortly  after  we  had  encamped,  and  continu- 
ed so  until  late  in  the  night,  with  violent 
headache  and  vomiting.     This  was  probably 
caused  by  the  excessive  fatigue  I  had  under- 
gone, and  want  of  food,  and  perhaps,  also, 
in  some  measure,  by  ihe  rarity  of  the  air. 
The  night  was  cold,  as  a  violent  gale  from 
Ihe  north  had  sprung  up  at  sunset,  which 


entirely  blew  away  the  heat  of  llio  fires. 
The  cold,  and  our  granite  beds,  had  not  been 
favorable  to  sleep,  and  we  were  glad  to  see 
the  face  of  the  sun  in  the  morning.  Not  be- 
ing delayed  by  any  preparation  for  break- 
fast, v.-e  set  out  immediately. 

On  every  side  as  we  advanced  war  heard 
the  roar  of  waters,  and  of  a  torrent,  which 
we  followed  up  a  short  distance,  until  it  ex- 
panded into  a  lake  about  one  mile  in  length. 
On  the  northern  side  of  the  lake  was  a  l)ank 
of  ice,  or  rather  of  snow  covered  with  a 
crust  of  ice.  Carson  had  been  our  guide 
into  the  mountains,  and,  agreeably  to  his 
advice,  we  lelt  this  little  valley,  and  took  to 
the  ridges  again ;  which  we  found  extremely 
broken,  and  where  we  were  again  involved 
among  precipices.  Here  were  ice  fields; 
among  which  we  were  all  dispersed,  seeking 
each  the  best  path  to  ascend  the  peak.  Mr. 
Preuss  attempted  to  walk  along  the  tipper 
edge  of  one  of  these  tields,  which  sloped 
away  at  an  angle  of  about  twenty  degrees  , 
but  his  feet  slipped  from  under  him,  and  he 
went  plunging  down  the  plane.  A  few 
hundred  feet  below,  at  the  bottom,  were 
some  fragments  of  sharp  rock,  on  which  he 
landed  ;  and  though  he  turned  a  couple  of 
somersets,  fortunately  received  no  injury  be- 
yond a  few  bruises.  Two  of  the  men,  Cle- 
ment Lambert  and  Descoteaux,  had  been 
taken  ill,  and  lay  down  on  the  rocks  a  short 
distance  below ;  and  at  this  point  I  was  at- 
tacked with  headache  and  giddiness,  accom- 
panied by  vomiting,  as  on  the  day  before. 
Pinring  myself  unable  to  proceed,  I  sent  the 
barometer  over  to  Mr.  Preuss,  who  was  in  a 
gap  two  or  three  hundred  yards  distant,  de- 
siring him  to  reach  the  peak,  if  possible,  and 
take  an  observation  there.  He  found  him- 
self unable  to  proceed  further  in  that  direc- 
tion, and  took  an  observation,  where  the  ba- 
rometer stood  at  19.401 ;  attached  thermo- 
meter 50o,  in  the  gap.  Carson,  who  had 
gone  over  to  him,  succeeded  in  reaching  one 
of  the  snowy  summits  of  the  main  ridge, 
whence  he  saw  the  peak  towards  which  all 
our  cftbrts  had  been  directed,  towering  eight 
or  ten  hundred  feet  into  the  air  above  him. 
In  the  meantime,  finding  myself  grow  rather 
worse  than  better,  and  doubtful  how  far  my 
strength  would  carry  me,  I  sent  Basil  La- 
jeunesse, with  four  men,  back  to  the  place 
where  the  mules  had  been  left. 

We  were  now  better  acquainted  with  the 
topography  of  the  country,  and  I  directed 
him  to  bring  back  with  him,  if  it  were  m 
any  way  possiljle,  four  or  five  mules,  with 
provisions  and  blankets.  With  rac  were 
Maxwell  and  Aycr ;  and  after  we  liad  re- 
mained nearly  an  hour  on  the  rock,  it  be- 
came so  unpleasantly  cold,  though  the  day 
was  bright,  that  we  set  o\it  on  our  rpiurn  to 
the  camp,  at  which  we  all  arrived  aafply, 


"*«i^ 


[1843. 


184i2.] 


CAPT   FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


4ft 


tlio  hpat  (if  llin  tirjs. 
;rniiitp  Ijotis,  liiul  not  been 
111(1  wo  wcrt'  {rlad  to  pep 
in  the  morning.  Not  lie- 
f  jirepanition  for  break- 
nediately. 

\vp  advanced  war  heard 

and  of  a  torrent,  wliich 

liort  distance,  until  it  ex- 

iibout  ono  mile  in  length. 

!o  of  the  lake  was  a  iiank 

3f  snow  covered  with  a 

son  had  been  onr  guide 

■1,  and,  agreeably  to  his 

little  valley,  and  took  to 

■hicli  wo  found  e.xtremely 

we  were  again  involved 

Here  were   ice  lield.s ; 

'ere  all  dispersed,  seeking 

to  ascend  the  peak.     Mr. 

o  walk  along  the  npper 

ese  fields,  which  slojied 

af  about  twenty  degrees  , 

from  under  liim,  and  he 

wn   the   plane.      A  few 

w,  at  the  bottom,  were 

'  sharp  rock,  on  which  he 

h  he  turned  a  couple  of 

ely  received  no  injury  be- 

.     Two  of  the  men,  Cle- 

d  Descoteaux,   had  been 

lown  on  the  rocks  a  short 

pd  at  this  point  I  was  at- 

;he  and  giddiness,  accom- 

g,  as  on  the  day  before. 

ible  to  proceed,  I  sent  the 

Mr.  Preuss,  who  was  in  a 

lundred  yards  distant,  de- 

1  the  peak,  if  possible,  and 

1  there.     He  found  him- 

leed  further  in  that  direc- 

ibservation,  where  the  ba- 

19.401 ;  attached  thermo- 

gap.      Carson,  who  had 

lucceeded  in  reaching  one 

imits  of  the  main  ridge, 

!  peak  towards  which  all 

n  directed,  towering  eight 

't  into  the  air  above  him. 

inding  myself  grow  rather 

and  doubtful  how  far  my 

rry  me,  I  sent  Basil  La- 

r  men,  back  to  the  place 

id  been  left. 

?tter  acquainted  with  the 
country,  and  I  directed 
with  him,  if  it  were  m 
four  or  five  mule?,  with 
nkets.  With  me  were 
r ;  and  after  we  liad  re- 
flour  on  the  rock,  it  be- 
tly  cold,  though  tlie  day 
!  set  out  tin  our  return  to 
h  we  all  arrived  safply, 


Btragulinnr  In  one  after  the  other.  I  con- 
tinned  ill  during  the  afternoon,  but  became 
better  towards  sundown,  when  my  recovery 
was  completed  by  the  appearance  of  Basil 
and  four  men,  all  mounted.  The  men  who 
liiul  mnw  with  him  iiad  been  too  much  fa- 
tiiriied  to  return,  and  were  relieved  by  those 
ill  clirirgo  of  the  horses;  but  in  his  powers 
n;  eiidiirunco  JJasil  resembled  more  a  moun- 
lnii;  g(i  '.t  than  a  man.  They  brought  blan- 
keh  anil  provisions,  and  we  enjoyed  well  our 
dried  meat  and  a  cup  of  good  cofteo.  We 
rolled  ourselveo  up  in  our  blankets,  and, 
with  our  feet  turned  to  a  blazing  fire,  slejit 
souiiilly  until  morning. 

A/';;(As7  15. — It  had  been  supposed  that  we 
had  linislied  with  the  mountains;  and  the 
evening  before,  it  had  been  arranged  that 
Carson  should  set  out  at  daylight,  and  re- 
turn to  breakfast  at  the  Camp  of  the  Mules, 
taking  with  him  all  but  four  or  five  men, 
who  were  to  stay  with  me  and  bring  back 
the  mules  and  instruments.  Accordingly, 
at  the  break  of  day  they  set  out.  With  Mr. 
Preuss  and  myself  remained  Basil  Lajeu- 
nesse,  Clement  Lambert,  Janisse,  and  Desco- 
teaux. When  we  had  secured  strength  for 
the  day  by  a  hearty  breakfast,  we  covered 
what  remained,  which  was  enough  for  one 
meal,  with  rocks,  in  order  that  il  might  be 
safe  from  any  marauding  bird ;  and,  saddling 
our  mules,  turned  our  faces  once  more  to- 
wards the  peaks.  This  time  we  determined 
to  proceed  quietly  and  cautious!}',  der>er- 
ately  resolved  to  accomplish  our  object  if  it 
were  within  the  compass  of  human  means. 
Wo  were  of  opinion  that  a  long  defile  which 
lay  to  the  left  of  yesterday's  route  would 
lead  us  to  the  foot  of  the  main  peak.  Our 
mules  had  been  refreshed  by  the  fine  grass 
in  the  little  ravine  at  the  Island  camp,  and 
we  intended  to  ride  up  the  defile  as  far  as 
possible,  in  order  to  husband  our  strength 
for  the  main  ascent.  Though  this  was  a 
fine  passage,  still  it  was  a  defile  of  the  most 
rugged  mountains  known,  and  wa  had  many 
a  rough  and  steep  slippery  place  to  cross 
before  reaching  the  end.  In  tiiis  place  the 
sun  rarely  shone ;  snow  lay  along  tlu  border 
of  the  small  stream  which  flowed  through  it, 
and  occasional  icy  passages  made  the  foot- 
ing of  the  mules  very  insecure,  and  the 
rooks  and  ground  were  moist  with  the  trick- 
ling waters  in  this  spring  of  mighty  rivers. 
We  soon  had  the  satisfaction  to  find  our- 
piMves  riding  along  the  Inigo  wall  wliich 
torms  the  central  summits  of  the  chain. 
There  at  last  il  rose  by  our  sides,  a  nearly 
perpondii'iilar  wall  of  granite,  terminating 
2,000  to  3,000  feet  above  our  heads  in  a  ser- 
rated line  of  broken,  jagged  cones.  We 
rode  on  until  we  came  almost  immediately 
below  the  main  peak,  which  I  (k'n(3minated 
the  Snow  peak,  as  it  exhibiied  more  snow 


to  the  eye  than  any  of  the  neighboring  sum- 
mits. Here  were  three  small  lakes  of  a 
green  color,  each  of  perhaps  a  thousand 
yards  in  diameter,  and  apparently  very  deep. 
These  lay  in  a  kind  of  chasm ;  and,  accord* 
ing  to  tlio  biuometer,  we  had  attained  but  a 
few  hundred  feet  above  the  Island  lake.  The 
barometer  hero  stood  at  20.460,  attached 
thermometer  70°. 

We  managed  to  get  our  mules  up  to  a 
little  bench  about  a  hundred  leet  above  the 
lakes,  where  there  was  a  patch  of  good 
grass,  and  turned  them  loose  to  graze.  Du- 
ring our  rough  ride  to  this  place,  they  had 
exhibited  a  wonderful  surefootedness.  Parts 
of  the  defile  were  filled  with  angular,  sharp 
fragments  of  rock,  three  or  fcur  and  eight  or 
ten  feet  cube ;  and  among  these  they  had 
worked  their  way,  leaping  from  ono  narrow 
point  to  another,  rarely  making  a  false  step, 
and  giving  us  no  occasion  to  dismount. 
Having  divested  ourselves  of  every  unneces- 
sary encumbrance,  we  commenced  the  as- 
cent. This  time,  like  experienced  travellers, 
we  did  not  press  ourselves,  but  climbed 
leisurely,  sitting  down  so  soon  as  we  found 
breath  beginning  to  fail.  At  intervals  we 
reached  places  whore  a  number  of  springs 
gushed  from  the  rocks,  and  about  1,800  feet 
above  the  laker  came  to  the  snow  line. 
Fiom  this  point  our  progress  was  uninter- 
rupted climbing.  Hitherto  I  had  worn  a 
pair  of  thick  moccasins,  with  soles  of  yar- 
jlSchc  ;  but  here  I  put  on  a  light  thin  pair, 
which  I  had  brought  for  the  purpose,  as  now 
the  use  of  our  toes  became  necessary  to  a 
further  advance.  I  availed  myself  of  a  sort 
of  comb  ol  the  mountain,  which  stood  against 
the  wall  like  a  buttress,  and  which  the  wind 
and  the  solar  radiation,  joined  to  the  steep- 
ness of  the  smooth  rock,  had  kept  almost  en- 
tirely free  from  snow.  Up  this  I  made  my 
v/ay  rapidly.  Our  cautious  method  of  acl- 
vancing  in  the  outset  had  spared  my  strength ; 
and,  with  the  exception  of  a  slight  disposi- 
tion to  headache,  I  felt  no  remains  of  yester- 
day's illness.  In  a  few  minutes  wo  reached 
a  point  where  the  buttress  was  overhanging, 
and  there  was  no  other  way  of  surmounting 
the  difficulty  than  by  passing  around  one 
side  of  it,  which  was  the  face  of  a  vertical 
precipice  of  several  hundred  feet. 

Putting  hands  and  feet  in  the  crevices  be- 
tween the  blocks,  I  succeeded  in  getting 
over  it,  and,  when  I  reached  the  top,  found 
my  comjianions  in  a  small  valley  below. 
Descending  to  them,  we  continued  climbing, 
and  in  a  short  time  reached  the  crest.  I 
sprang  upon  the  summit,  and  aiKjtiier  step 
would  have  precipitated  me  into  an  immense 
snow  field  five  hundred  feet  below.  'J'o  the 
edge  of  this  field  was  a  sheer  icy  precipice  ; 
and  then,  with  a  gradual  fall,  the  field  sloped 
off  for  about  a  mile,  until  it  struck  the  foot 


CAPT.  FllKMONT'S  NARllA'l'I\' 


[1843 


of  anollipr  hwor  ridt'p.  I  Ht<io(l  on  a.  narrow 
orpst,  ab'iuf  tlirn^  loot,  in  width,  witli  an  iii- 
clinalion  of  about  -^0°  N.  b\°  E.  As  soon 
as  I  had  irratilifid  tlie  first  I'oehn^r.s  of  curi- 
osity, I  dosccMided.  and  each  rnan  ascpiidpd 
n;  his  turn  ;  lor  I  would  only  allow  onn  at  a 
time  to  niciiHit  the  mistahlo  and  precarious 
slab,  which  it  seemed  a  breath  would  hurl 
into  the  abyss  below.  We  mounted  the  ba- 
rometer ill  the  snow  of  the  siunniit,  and,  ti.\- 
inii;  a  ramrod  in  a.  crevice,  unfurled  the  na- 
tional ilajr  to  wave  in  tlic  breeze  where  never 
flan;  waved  before.  Durinff  our  morninfj's 
ascent,  we  had  met  no  sijrn  of  animal  life, 
except  the  small  sparrow-like  bird  already 
mentioned.  A  stillnes.s  the  most  profound 
and  a  terrible  .solitude  forced  themselves  con- 
stantly on  the  mind  as  the  irreat  features  of 
the  place.  Here,  on  the  summit,  where  the 
stillness  was  absolute,  uiibrokoii  by  any 
sound,  and  the  solitude  complete,  we  thougiit 
ourselves  beyond  the  region  of  animated  life ; 
but  while  we  were  sitting  ont  lie  rock,  a  soli- 
tary bee  (bromus,  the  hiiinhle  bee)  came 
winging  his  flight  irorn  tiie  eastern  valley, 
and  lit  on  the  knee  of  one  of  the  men. 

It  was  a  strange  place,  the  icy  rock  and 
the  liighest  peak  of  the  Rocky  mountains, 
for  a  lover  of  warm  sunshine  and  flowers ; 
and  we  pleased  ourselves  with  the  idea  that 
he  was  the  first  of  his  species  to  cross  the 
mountain  barrier — a  solitary  pioneer  to  fore- 
tell the  advance  of  civilisation.  I  believe 
that  a  moment's  thought  would  have  made 
us  let  him  continue  his  way  unharmed  ;  but 
we  carried  out  the  law  of  this  country,  where 
all  animated  nature  seems  at  war  ;  and,  seis- 
ing him  immediately,  put  him  in  at  least  a 
fit  place — in  the  leaves  of  a  large  book, 
among  the  flowers  we  had  collected  on  our 
way.  '  The  barometer  stood  at  18.293,  the 
attached  thermometer  at  44° ;  giving  for  the 
elevation  of  this  summit  1.3,570  feet  above 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  which  may  be  called  the 
liighost  flight  of  the  bee.  It  is  certainly  the 
liighest  known  flight  of  that  insect.  From 
the  description  given  by  Mackenzie  of  the 
mountains  where  he  crossed  them,  with  that 
of  a  French  ofticer  still  farther  to  the  north, 
and  Colonel  Long's  measurements  to  the 
south,  joined  to  the  opinion  of  the  oldest  tra- 
ders of  the  country,  it  is  presumed  that  this 
is  the  highest  peak  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 
The  day  was  sunny  and  bright,  but  a  slight 
shining  mist  hung  over  the  lower  ))lains, 
which  interfered  witii  our  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding country.  On  one  side  we  over- 
looked innumerable  lakes  and  streams,  the 
spring  of  the  Colorado  of  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia ;  and  on  the  other  was  the  Wind  river 
valley,  where  wore  the  heads  of  the  Yellow- 
Btone  branch  of  the  Missouri ;  liir  to  the 
north,  we  just  could  discover  the  snowy 
aeads  of  the  Trois  Telons,  where  were  tlie 


.sources  of  the  Mis.souri  and  Columbia  rivers; 
and  at  the  southern  e.\treinity  of  the  ridge, 
the  peaks  wore  plainly  visible,  among  which 
were  some  of  the  springs  of  the  iN'i'braskaor 
Platte  river.  Around  us,  the  whole  scene 
had  one  main  striking  feature,  which  was 
that  of  terrible  convulsion.  Parallel  to  it.i 
h'ngth,  the  ridge  was  split  into  ('iiasms  and 
tissures  ;  between  which  rose  the  thin  loi'ty 
walls.  tenninat(!(!  with  slender  minarets  and 
columns.  According  to  the  barometer,  the 
little  crest  of  tlie  wall  on  which  we  stood 
was  three  thousand  live  hundred  ;;nd  seventy 
feet  above  that  ])lace,  and  two  thousand 
seven  hundred  and  eighty  above  the  little 
lakes  at  the  bottom,  immediately  at  our  feet. 
Our  camp  at  the  Two  Hills  (an  astronomical 
station)  bore  south  3°  east,  which,  with  a 
hearing  afterward  obtained  from  a  lixed  po- 
sition, enabled  us  to  locate  the  peak.  The 
bearing  of  the  Tnii.^  'I'elons  was  north  60"^ 
west,  and  the  direction  of  the  central  ridgo 
of  the  Wind  river  mountains  south  3U°  cast. 
The  summit  rock  was  gneiss,  succeeded  by 
sienitic  gneiss.  Sienite  and  feldspar  sue 
ceeded  in  our  descent  to  the  snow  line, 
where  we  found  a  feldspathic  granite.  I 
had  remarked  that  the  noise  produced  by  the 
explosion  of  our  pistols  had  the  usualdegree 
of  loudness,  but  was  not  in  the  least  pro- 
longed, expiring  almost  instantaneously. 
Having  now  made  what  observations  our 
means  alVorded,  W9  proceeded  to  descend. 
We  had  accomplished  an  object  of  laudable 
ambition,  and  beyond  the  strict  order  of  our 
instructions.  We  had  climbed  the  loftiest 
peak  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  looked 
down  upon  the  snow  a  thousand  feet  below, 
and,  standing  where  never  human  foot  had 
stood  before,  felt  the  exultation  of  flrst  ex- 
plorers. It  was  about  -J,  o'clock  when  we 
left  the  summit;  and  when  we  reached  the 
bottom,  the  sun  had  already  sunk  beiiind  the 
wail,  and  the  day  was  drawing  to  a  close. 
It  would  have  been  pleasant  to  liave  lingered 
here  and  on  the  summit  longer  ;  but  wo  hur- 
ried away  as  rapidly  as  the  ground  would 
permit,  for  it  was  an  object  to  regain  our 
party  as  soon  as  possible,  not  knowing  what 
accident  the  next  hour  miglit  bring  forth. 

We  reached  our  deposit  of  provisions  at 
nightfall.  Here  was  not  the  inn  which 
awaits  the  tired  traveller  on  his  return  from 
Mont  Blanc,  or  the  orange  groves  of  South 
America,  with  their  refreshing  juices  and  soft 
fragrant  air ;  but  wo  found  our  little  cache  ot 
dried  meat  and  cofTee  undisturbed.  Though 
the  moon  was  bright,  the  road  was  fu'l  of 
precipices,  and  the  fatigue  of  the  day  had 
been  great.  We  therefore  abandoned  the 
idea  of  rejoining  our  friends,  and  lay  down  on 
the  rock,  and,  in  spite  of  the  cold,  slept 
soundly. 

August  Id. — We    lefl  our  encampment 


■■*mi 


.ivS^'!^''^ 


i  ^ 


[1843 

ioiiri  and  Cohiniljia rivers ; 
n  ('.\trpmity  oC  tlic  ridge, 
inly  vi:<il)k',  aiiioiii^wliicli 
priiiirs  of  the  i\i'hra.sl<a  or 
iiid   us,  tlie  wliolo  scene 
iiiU  fcatiire,  vvlilch  was 
iviilsion.     Parallel  to  ita 
vas  split  into  cliasms  and 
which  rose  tin?  thin  loi'ty 
ivith  slender  minarets  and 
u<X  to  the  l)ar.inieter,  the 
wall  on  which  wo  stood 
live  hundred  ;;nd  seventy 
ice,   and   two   thousand 
eighty  above  the  little 
imtncdiatoly  at  our  feet, 
wo  Hills  (an  aslronoinical 
li  3^  east,   whk  h.  witii  a 
obtained  from  a  lixed  po- 
lo locate  tlie  peak.     'J'he 
v;/.s'  Telons  was  north  50"^ 
;tion  of  the  central  ridgo 
mountains  south  3!)°  oast, 
was  gneiss,  succeeded  by 
Sienite  and  feldspar   sue 
scent   to  the  snow   line, 
a  feldspatliic  granite.     I 
the  noise  produced  by  the 
stols  had  the  usual  degree 
ivas  not  in  the  least  |)ro- 
almost    instantaneously, 
what  oljservations   our 
iS   proceeded  to  descend, 
lied  an  object  of  laudable 
ond  the  strict  order  of  our 
I  had  climbed  the  loftiest 
cy  mountains,  and  looked 
jw  a  thousand  feet  below, 
■re  never  human  foot  had 
the  exultation  of  tirst  cx- 
ihout  '2  o'clock  when  we 
iind  when  we  reached  the 
,d  already  sunk  beiiind  the 
was  drawing  to  a  close, 
n  pleasant  to  have  lino(>rcd 
nnmit  longer  ;  but  v,e  hur- 
idly  as  the  ground  .vonld 
3  an  object  to  regain  our 
ossible,  not  knowing  what 
hour  mijjlit  bring  forth, 
r  deposit  of  provision.^  at 
was   not   the   inn    which 
aveller  on  his  return  from 
e  orange  groves  of  South 
r  refreshing  juices  and  soft 
ve  found  our  little  cache  ol 
Tee  undisturbed.     Though 
ght,  the  road  was  fu'l  of 
le  fatigue  of  the  day  liad 
therefore   abandoned  the 
\r  friends,  and  lay  down  on 
I  spite  of  the  cold,  slept 

7e    left  our  encampment 


1842.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  XARR.VTIVE. 


li  by 
with 


with  the  daylignt.  We  saw  on  our  way 
liirge  Hocks  of  the  mountain  goat  looking 
down  on  us  li  im  tl. '  dill's.  At  the  crai  k  of 
;i  rifle,  they  would  bo  Hid  olVamongthe  rocks, 
iiid  in  a  few  minutes  make  their  appearance 
im  some  lofty  peiik,  some  hundred  or  a  thou- 
sand feel  alicive.  It  is  needless  to  attempt 
any  lurtlier  descrijilion  of  the  country;  the 
portion  over  wliich  we  travelled  this  morning 
was  rough  as  imairination  could  picture  it, 
and  to  us  seemed  o(|ually  beautiful.  A  con- 
course of  lakes  and  rushing  waters,  moun- 
tains of  rocks  naked  and  destitute  of  vegeta- 
ble carlh,  dells  and  ravines  of  the  most 
e.x-quisite  lieauty,  all  kept  green  and  fresh 
the  great  moisture  in  the  air,  and  sown 
brilliant  flowers,  and  everywhere  thrown 
around  all  the  glory  of  most  magnificent 
scenes:  these  conslitiite  the  features  of  the 
place,  and  impress  themselves  vividly  on  the 
mind  of  the  traveller.  It  was  not  until  11 
o'clock  that  we  reached  llie  place  where  our 
animals  had  been  left,  when  we  tirst  attempt- 
ed the  mountains  on  foot.  Near  one  of  the 
still  burning  fires  we  found  a  piece  of  meat, 
which  our  friends  liad  thrown  away,  and 
which  furnished  us  a  mouthful — a  very 
scanty  breakfast.  We  continued  directly 
on,  and  reached  our  camp  on  the  mountain 
lake  at  dusk.  We  found  all  well.  Nothing 
had  occurred  to  interrupt  the  quiet  since  our 
departure,  and  the  fine  grass  and  good  cool 
water  had  done  much  to  re-establish  our  ani- 
mals. All  heard  with  great  delight  the  order 
to  turn  our  faces  homeward ;  and  toward 
sundown  of  the  17lh,  we  encamped  again  at 
the  Two  Jluttes. 

In  the  course  of  this  afternoon's  march, 
the  barometer  was  broken  past  remedy.  I 
regretted  it,  as  I  was  desirous  to  cosTipare  it 
again  with  Dr.  Engleinan's  barometers  at  St. 
Louis,  to  which  mine  were  referred  ;  but  it  j 
had  done  its  part  well,  and  my  objects  were  I 
mainly  fullilled. 

Aiigusi  11). — We  left  cur  camp  on  Little 
Sandy  river  about  7  in  the  morning,  and  tra- 
versed the  same  sandy,  undulating  country. 
The  air  was  tilled  with  the  turpenline  sceiit 
of  the  various  arleminiait,  which  are  now  in 
bloom,  and,  numerous  as  they  are,  gi'.  i:.ucli 
gaiety  to  the  landscape  of  the  plains.  At 
10  o'clock,  we  stood  exactly  on  the  divide  in 
the  pass,  where  the  wagon  road  crosses,  and, 
descending  immediately  upon  the  Sweet 
Water,  halted  to  take  a  meridian  observation 
of  the  sun.     The  latitude  was  42°  ;!  I'  32". 

In  the  course  of  the  afiernoon  we  saw  buf- 
falo again  and  at  our  evening  halt  on  the 
Sweet  Water  the  roasted  ribs  again  made 
their  appearance  around  the  fires  ;  and,  with 
them,  good  humor,  and  laughter,  and  song, 
were  restored  to  the  camp.  Our  colFee  had 
been  expended,  but  we  now  made  a  kind  of 
tea  from  the  roots  of  the  wild  cherry  tree. 


AiiiTiisi  2r!.— Yesterday  evening  we  rcach« 
ed  our  eiirniupnient  at  ilock  liidepeiulence, 
where  1  took  some  astronnuiieal  observations. 
Here,  not  uiiiniiidrul  of  the  custom  of  early 
travellers  and  explorers  in  our  country,  I  en- 
gravecl  tm  Ibis  rock  of  the  Far  VV'esi  a  sym- 
bol ol  ibetJIirislian  faith.  Amoiin-  the  thickly 
inscribed  names,  I  made  on  the  hard  granite 
the  iinpressjon  of  a  large  cross  which  I  co- 
vered with  a  black  iireparation  of  India  ridiber, 
well  calcidated  to  resist  the  influence  of  wind 
and  rain.  It  stands  amidst  the  names  of 
many  whci  have  long  since  found  their  way 
to  the  grave,  and  for  whom  the  huge  rock  is 
a  giant  gravestone. 

One  (ieorge  Weymouth  was  sent  out  to 
Maine  by  tlie  Earl  of  Southampton,  Lord 
Arundel,  and  others ;  and  in  the  narrative  of 
their  discoveries,  he  says:  "The  next  day, 
we  ascended  in  our  pinnace  that  part  of  the 
river  which  lies  more  to  the  westward,  carry- 
ing with  us  a  cros.s — a  thing  never  omitted  by 
any  Christian  traveller — which  we  erected 
at  the  ultimate  end  of  our  route."  This  was 
in  the  year  1G05;  and  in  1842  I  obeyed  the 
feeling  of  early  travellers,  and  left  the  im- 
pression of  the  cross  deeply  engraved  on  the 
vast  rock  one  thousand  miles  beyond  the 
Mississippi,  to  which  I'iscoverers  have  given 
the  national  name  of  Jluck  Intkiwmlence. 

In  obedience  to  my  instructions  to  survey 
the  river  Platte,  if  possible,  I  had  determined 
to  niaKc  an  attempt  at  this  place.  The  India 
rubber  boat  was  tilled  with  air,  placed  in  the 
water,  and  loaded  with  what  was  necessary 
for  our  operations  ;.  and  I  embarked  with  Mr. 
Preuss  .'•'■.d  a  party  of  men.  When  we  had 
dragged  our  boat  for  a  mile  or  two  over  the 
sands,  I  abandoned  the  impossible  undertak- 
ing, and  waited  for  the  arrival  of  the  party, 
when  we  packed  up  our  boat  and  equipage 
and  at  9  o'clock  were  agaii.  moving  along 
OP  our  land  journey.  We  continued  along 
!  I  ■  valley  on  the  right  bank  of  tlie  Sweet 
V  ater,  whire  the  formation,  as  already  de- 
Fcribcd,  consists  of  a  greyish  micaceous  sand- 
stone, and  fine-grained  conglomerate,  and 
marl.  We  passed  over  a  ridge  which  bor- 
ders or  constitutes  the  river  hills  of  the 
Platte,  consisting  of  huge  blocks,  sixty  or 
eighty  feet  cube,  of  decomposing  granite. 
The  cement  which  united  them  was  proba- 
bly of  easier  decomposition,  and  has  disap- 
peared and  left  them  isolate,  and  separated 
by  small  spaces.  Numerous  horns  of  the 
mountain  goat  were  lying  among  the  rocks  ; 
and  in  the  ravines  were  cedars,  whose  trunks 
were  of  extraordinary  size.  From  this  ridge 
we  descended  to  a  small  open  plain  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water,  which  rushed 
with  a  rapid  i  urrent  into  the  Platte,  herr 
flowing  along  in  a  broad,  and  apparently 
deep  stream,  which  seemed,  from  its  turbid 
appearance,  to  be  considerably  swollen.    T 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1843 


obtained  Imro  si mio  astronomical  observations, 
and  tlio  al'iorrioon  was  spent  in  potting  o\ir 
boat  rriiily  lor  navlrjation  tbe  next  daj. 

Aiiirusl  "J  I. — We  started  i)el'ore  snnrise, 
intendinij  to  breakfast  at  fJoat  Island.  I  had 
diterted  tlie  land  |)arty,  in  charge  of  Uernier, 
to  proceed  to  this  [ilace,  where  they  were  to 
remain,  should  tiiey  find  no  note  to  apprise 
tiipm  of  our  having  passed.  In  the  event  of 
receiving  this  information,  they  were  to  con- 
tinue their  route,  passing  by  certain  places 
wiiich  iiad  been  designated.  l\Ir.  Preuss  ac- 
companied me,  and  with  us  were  five  of  my 
best  men,  viz  :  C.  Lambert,  Bnsil  Lajeunesse. 
Honore  Ayot,  Penoist,  and  Descoteaiix. 
Here  appeared  no  scarcity  of  water,  and  we 
took  on  l)oar<l,  'vith  varinns  instruments  and 
ban-gage,  provisions  for  ten  or  twelve  days. 
We  paddled  down  the  river  rapidly,  for  our 
little  craft  was  light  as  a  duck  on  the  water ; 
and  the  sun  had  been  some  time  risen,  when 
We  i:ard  before  as  a  hollow  roar,  which  we 
supposed  to  be  that  of  a  fall,  of  which  we 
had  heard  a  vague  rumor,  but  whoso  exact 
locality  no  one  had  been  able  to  describe  to 
ns.  We  were  approaching  a  ridge,  through 
which  the  river  passes  by  a  place  called 
"  canon  "  (pronounced  kanyon),  a  Spanish 
word,  signifying  a  piece  of  artillery,  the  bar- 
rel of  a  gun,  or  any  kind  of  tube ;  and  which, 
in  this  country,  has  been  adopted  to  describe 
the  passage  of  a  river  between  perpendicular 
rocks  of  gre?t  height,  which  frequently  ap- 
proach each  other  so  closely  overhead  as  to 
form  a  kind  of  tunnel  over  the  stream,  which 
'oams  along  below,  half  choked  np  by  fallen 
fragments.  Between  the  mouth  of  the 
Sweet  Water  and  Goat  island,  there  is  pro- 
bably a  fall  of  300  feet,  and  that  was  princi- 
pally made  in  the  canons  before  us ;  as,  with- 
out them,  the  water  was  comparati\oly 
smooth.  As  we  iieared  the  ridge,  the  river 
nsade  a  sudden  turn,  and  swept  squarely  down 
against  one  of  the  walls  of  the  canon  with 
a  great  velocity,  and  so  steep  a  descent,  that 
it  Tiad,  to  the  eye,  the  appearance  of  an  in- 
clined plane.  When  we  launched  into  this, 
the  men  jumped  overboard,  to  check  the  ve- 
locity of  tbe  boat,  but  were  soon  in  water  up 
to  their  necks,  and  our  boat  ran  on  ;  but  we 
succeeded  in  bringing  her  to  a  small  point  of 
rocks  on  the  right,  at  the  mouth  of  the  canon. 
Here  was  a  kind  of  elevated  sand  beach,  not 
many  yards  sijuare,  backed  by  the  rocks,  and 
around  tlif  point  the  river  swept  at  a  right 
angle.  Trunks  of  trees  deposited  on  jutting 
points  20  or  30  feet  above,  and  other  marks, 
showed  that  the  water  here  frequently  rose 
to  a  considerable  height.  The  ridge  was  of 
the  same  decomposing  granite  already  men- 
tioned, and  the  water  had  worked  the  surface, 
in  many  places,  into  a  wavy  surface  if  ridges 
and  holes.    We  ascended  the  rocks  to  recon- 


noitre the  ground,  and  from  tbe  i^nmmit  the 
passage  appeared  to  boa  continued  cataract 
foar.,ing  over  many  obstructions,  and  broken 
by  a  number  of  small  falU.  We  siw  no- 
where a  fall  answering  lo  that  wliich  had 
been  described  to  us  as  having  J(l  or  25  (at 
but  still  concluded  Ibis  to  he  the  place  in 
question,  as,  in  the  season  of  floods,  the  yusb 
of  the  river  against  tbe  wall  would  produce 
a  groat  rise,  and  the  waters,  rellected  squarely 
off'  wcMild  descenil  through  the  passage  in  a 
sheet  of  foam,  having  every  appearance  of  a 
large  fall.  Eighteen  years  previous  to  this 
time,  as  I  have  subsequently  learned  from 
himself,  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  somewhere  above 
on  this  rive-,  had  embarked  v;ith  a  valuable 
cargo  of  beaver.  Unacquainted  with  the 
stream,  which  be  believed  would  conduct 
him  safely  to  the  Missouri,  be  came  unex- 
pectedly into  this  caficm,  where  he  was 
wrecked,  with  the  total  loss  of  bis  furs.  It 
would  have  been  a  work  of  great  time  and 
labor  to  pack  our  baggage  across  the  ridge, 
and  I  determined  to  run  the  canon.  We  all 
again  embarked,  and  at  first  attempted  to 
clieck  the  way  of  the  boat ;  but  the  water 
swept  through  with  so  much  violence  that 
we  narrowly  esca|)ed  being  swamped,  and 
were  obliged  to  lot  her  iro  in  the  full  force  of 
the  current,  and  trust  to  the  skill  ol  the  boat- 
men. The  dangerous  places  in  this  canon 
were  where  huge  rocks  had  fallen  from  above, 
and  hemmed  in  the  already  narrow  pass  of 
the  river  to  an  open  space  of  three  or  four 
and  five  feet.  These  olistrnctions  raised  the 
water  considerably  above,  which  was  some- 
times precipitated  over  in  a  fall ;  and  at  other 
places,  where  this  dam  was  too  high,  rushed 
through  t!.d  contracted  oppiiing  with  tremen- 
dous violence.  Had  our  boat  been  made  of 
wood,  in  passing  the  narrows  alio  would  have 
been  staved  ;  but  her  elasticity  preserved  her 
imhurt  from  every  shock,  and  she  seemed 
fairly  to  leap  over  the  falls. 

In  this  way  we  passed  three  cataracts  in 
succession,  where,  perhaps  100  feet  of  smooth 
water  intervened  ;  and,  finally,  with  a  shout 
of  pleasure  at  our  succp:;s.  issued  from  our 
tunnel  into  the  open  day  beyond.  We  were 
so  delighted  with  the  performance  of  our 
boat,  and  so  confident  in  her  powers,  that  we 
would  not  have  liositaled  to  leap  a  fall  often 
feet  with  her.  We  put  to  shore  for  break- 
fast at  some  willows  on  the  right  bank,  im- 
mediately below  the  mouth  of  the  canon ;  for 
it  was  now  8  o'clock,  and  we  had  been  work- 
ing since  dayligln.  and  were  all  wet,  fatigued, 
and  hungry.  While  the  men  were  prepar- 
ing breakfast,  I  went  out  to  reconnoitre.  The 
view  was  rery  limited.  The  course  of  the 
river  was  smooth,  so  far  as  I  could  see  ;  on 
both  sides  were  broken  hills ;  and  but  a  mile 
or  two  below  was  another  high  ridge.    The 


[1843 

rid  fi'ciiii  flio  mimtnit  the 
)  l)0!i  cdntiiinpd  cataracl 
oli.-'triictions,  and  broken 
lall  liillf!.  We  saw  nO' 
riiifT  '<>  tliiit  which  had 
;  as  havinfi  Jii  <ir  '25  lV^:t 
tliis  to  bo  the  place  in 
<('iisoii  of  floods,  the  Vush 
thp  wall  would  prodtico 
waiters,  vplleoted  pqiiarcly 
liroiiirli  tlio  passarre  in  a 
jj  every  apfiearance  of  a 
n  years  previous  to  thia 
bseqneiitly  learned  from 
itrick,  fsomewliere  above 
nbarkod  with  a  valuable 
Unacquainted  with  the 
believed  would  conduct 
^lissouri,  he  came  unex- 
cafion,  where  he  was 
otal  loss  of  his  furs.  It. 
work  of  great  time  and 
iSTRasre  across  the  ridge, 
run  the  canon.  We  all 
nd  at  lirst  attempted  to 
the  boat ;  but  rjie  water 
1  so  much  violence  that 
ed  beinrr  swamped,  and 
iier  iro  in  the  full  force  of 
st  to  the  skill  of  the  boat- 
3US  places  in  this  canon 
cks  had  fallen  from  above, 
0  already  narrow  pass  of 
m  space  of  three  or  four 
ise  oD.structions  raised  the 
•  abo\e,  which  was  some- 
ivor  in  a  fall ;  and  at  other 
dam  was  too  high,  rushed 
:ted  opniing  with  tremen- 
id  our  boat  been  made  of 
e  narrows  alio  would  have 
er  elasticity  preserved  her 
'  shock,  and  she  seemed 
the  falls. 

:)assed  three  cataracts  in 
perhaps  100  feet  of  smooth 
and,  finally,  with  a  shout 
succe;  s.  issued  from  our 
n  day  beyond.  We  were 
the  performance  of  our 
ent  in  her  powers,  that  we 
sitatod  to  leap  a  fall  often 
e  put  to  shore  for  break- 
is  on  the  right  bank,  im- 
10  mouth  of  the  canon ;  for 
ck,  and  we  had  been  work- 
and  were  all  wet,  fatigued, 
ile  the  men  were  preuar- 
iit  out  to  reconnoitre.  The 
ited.  The  course  of  the 
so  far  as  1  could  see ;  on 
oken  hills ;  and  but  a  mile 
another  high  ridge.     Tha 


[ 


«84'2.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRA"  'VK. 


49 


rock  at  the  mouth  of  the  canon  was  still  the 
decomposing  granite,  with  great  quantities 
of  mica,  which  made  a  very  glittering  sand. 
We  re-einbarked  at  9  o'clock,  and  in  about 
twenty  minutes  reached  the  n^>.\t  canon. 
Landing  on  a  rocky  shore  at  its  commence- 
ment, we  ascended  the  ridge  to  reconnoitre. 
I'ortage  was  out  of  the  (|uestion.  »So  far  as 
we  could  see,  the  jagged  rocks  pointed  out 
the  course  of  the  canon,  on  a  winding  .ine 
of  seven  ( ■  eight  miles.  It  was  simply  a  nar- 
row, dark  chasm  in  the  rock;  and  here  the 
perpendicular  faces  were  much  higher  than 
in  t'  ~  previous  pass,  being  at  this  end  two 
to  tbree  huiuhvd,  and  further  dmvn,  as  we 
afterwards  ascertained,  five  hundred  feet  in 
vertical  heii;lit.  Our  previous  success  fiad 
made  us  bold,  and  we  determined  again  to 
run  the  cafion.  Everything  was  secured  as 
firmly  as  possible;  and  having  divested  our- 
selves of  iJie  greater  part  of  our  clothing,  we 
pushed  into  tlie  stream.  To  save  our  chro- 
nometer Irom  accident,  Mr.  Preuss  took  it, 
and  atteui[ited  to  proceed  along  the  shore  on 
the  masses  of  rock,  which  in  places  were 
piled  up  on  either  side;  but,  after  he  had 
walked  about  five  minutes,  everj'thing  like 
shore  disappeared,  and  the  vertical  wall 
came  squarely  down  into  the  water.  He 
therefore  waited  until  we  came  up.  An 
ugly  pass  lay  before  us.  We  had  made  fast 
to  the  stern  of  tae  i)cat  a  strong  rope  about 
fifty  feet  long ;  i.iid  three  of  the  men  clam- 
bered alonix  among  the  rocks,  and  with  this 
rope  let  her  down  slowly  through  the  pass. 
In  several  pla.ces  high  rocks  lay  scattered 
about  in  the  cliannel ;  and  in  the  narrows  it 
required  all  our  strength  and  skill  to  avoid 
staving  the  boat  on  the  sharp  points.  In  one 
of  these,  the  boat  proved  a  little  too  broad, 
and  stuck  fast  for  an  instant,  while  the  water 
flew  over  us ;  fortunately,  it  was  but  for  an 
instant,  as  our  united  strength  forced  her 
immediately  through.  The  water  swept 
overboard  only  a  se.xtant  and  a  pair  ot  saddle- 
ba;:^s.  I  caught  the  sextant  as  it  passed  by 
me;  but  the  saddlebags  became  the  prey  of 
the  whirlpools.  We  reached  tlio  place  where 
Mr.  Preuss  was  standing,  took  him  on 
board,  and,  with  the  aid  of  the  Iwat,  put  the 
men  with  the  rope  on  the  succeeding  pile  of 
rocks.  We  found  this  passage  much  worse 
than  the  previous  one,  and  our  position  was 
rather  a  bad  one.  To  go  back,  was  impos- 
sible ;  before  us,  the  cataract  was  a  sheet  of 
foam;  and  shut  tip  in  the  chasm  by  the 
rocks,  which,  in  some  places,  seemed  almost 
to  meet  overiiead,  tho  roar  of  the  water  was 
deafening.  We  pushed  off  again  ;  but,  after 
isiaking  a  little  distance,  the  force  of  the  cur- 
rent became  too  great  lor  the  men  on  shore, 
and  two  of  them  let  go  the  rope.  Lajeu- 
nesae,  tiio  third  man,  hung  on,  and  was  jerk- 
ed headforemost  into  the  river  from  a  rock 


about  twelve  feet  iiigh ;  and  down  llie  hrdt  sliot 
like  an  arrow,  Basil  following  us  in  '.le  rapid 
current,  and  exerting  all  his  strength  to  keep 
in  uiid  cliauuei — his  head  only  seen  occa- 
sionally like  a  black  spot  in  the  white  loam. 
How  far  we  went,  I  do  not  exactly  know, 
but  we  succeeded  in  turning  the  boat  into  un 
eddy  below.  '■•''Cri  Difii,''  said  Basil  La- 
joiiness'-',  as  he  arrived  imiiiediately  after  us, 
"  .A.'  (;;•(,.■'.«  Iiicn  que  fai  yinn^i  un  ilnni  luilr." 
He  had  owed  his  life  to  his  skill  as  a  swim- 
mer, and  I  determined  to  take  him  and  the 
two  others  on  board,  and  trust  to  skill  and 
fortune  to  reach  the  other  end  in  safety.  We 
jilaced  or  selves  on  our  knees,  with  the  short 
paddles  in  our  hands,  the  most  skilful  boat- 
man being  at  the  bow  ;  and  again  we  com- 
menced our  rapid  descent.  We  cleared 
rock  after  rock,  and  shot  past  fall  after  fall, 
our  little  boat  seeming  to  play  with  tho  cata- 
ract. We  became  flushed  with  success,  and 
familiar  with  the  danger;  and,  yielding  to 
the  excitement  of  the  occasion,  broke  forth 
together  into  a  Canadian  boat  song.  Sing- 
ing, or  rather  shouting,  we  dashed  along; 
and  were,  I  believe,  in  the  midst  of  the  cho- 
rus, when  the  boat  struck  a  concealed  rock 
immediately  at  the  foot  of  a  fall,  which 
whirled  iier  over  in  an  instant.  Three  of 
my  men  could  not  swim,  and  my  first  feel- 
ing was  to  assist  them,  and  save  some  of 
our  effects ;  but  a  sharp  concussion  or  two 
convinced  roe  tliat  I  liad  not  yet  saved  my- 
self. A  few  strokes  brought  me  into  an 
eddy,  and  I  landed  on  a  pile  of  rocks  on  the 
left  side.  Looking  around,  I  saw  that  Mr. 
Preuss  had  gained  the  shore  on  the  same 
side,  about  twenty  yards  below ;  and  a  little 
climbing  and  swimming  soon  brought  him 
to  my  side.  On  the  opposite  side,  against 
the  wall.  Jay  the  boat  bottom  up ;  and  Lam- 
bert was  ui  the  act  of  saving  Descoteaux, 
whom  he  had  grasped  by  the  hair,  and 
v.-ho  could  not  swim  ;  "  Ldchr  pas,"  said 
he,  as  I  afterwards  learned,  " Id'ltr.  pas,  cher 
frerc."  ^' Grains  pa.s,"  was  the  reply,  "./is 
m'cn  vais  mourir  avanl  que  do  te  Idchfr." 
Such  was  the  reply  of  courage  and  gene- 
rosity in  this  danger.  For  a  hundred  yards 
below  the  current  was  covered  with  floating 
books  and  boxes,  bales  of  blankets,  and  scat- 
tered articles  of  clothing ;  and  so  strong  and 
boiling  was  the  stream,  that  even  our  heavy 
instruments,  which  were  all  in  cases,  kept 
on  the  surface,  and  the  sextant,  circle,  and 
the  long  black  box  of  the  telescope,  were  iiii 
view  at  once.  For  a  moment,  I  felt  some 
what  disheartened.  All  our  books — almost 
every  record  of  the  journey — our  journals 
and  registers  of  astronomical  and  barometri- 
cal observations — liad  been  lost  in  a  mohient. 
But  it  was  no  time  to  indulge  in  regrets, 
Piid  I  immediately  set  about  endeavoring  to 
save  something  from  the  wreck.    Making 


60 


CAl''J'.  rKH.M<)N'i"S  NARRATIVE. 


11842. 


ouraclvcs  iimlorstond  as  well  a-!  iiossihlo  by 
•icns  (for  nolliin^  could  bo  Ijoard  in  the  roar 
ofwators),  we  commenced  our  operations, 
Of  cverylbini^  on  board,  the  only  article  that 
had  been  saved  was  my  double  barrelled  pun, 
wliicli  Descoteau.x  liad  caught,  and  cliinjr  to 
with  drowninor  tenacity.  The  men  continu- 
ed down  the  river  on  the  left.  bank.  Mr. 
Prcuss  and  myself  descended  on  the  side  we 
were  on ;  and  Lajounesse,  with  a  paddle  in 
his  hand,  jumped  on  the  boat  alone,  and  con- 
tinued down  the  cafion.  She  was  now  light, 
and  cleared  every  bad  place  with  much  less 
difficulty.  In  a  short  time  he  was  joined  by 
Lambert,  and  the  search  was  continued  for 
about  a  mile  and  a  half,  which  was  as  far  as 
the  boat  could  proceed  in  the  pass. 

Hero  the  walls  were  about  live  hundred 
feet  hiirh,  and  the  fragments  of  rocks  from 
above  li.id  choked  the  river  into  a  hollow 
pass,  but  one  or  two  feet  above  the  surface. 
Tiirough  this  and  the  interstices  of  the  rock, 
the  water  found  its  way.  Favored  beyond 
our  expectations,  all  of  our  registers  had 
been  recovered,  with  the  exception  of  one 
of  my  journals,  which  contained  the  notes 
and  incidents  of  travel,  and  topographical 
descriptions,  a  number  of  scattered  astrono- 
mical observations,  principally  meridian  alti- 
tudes of  the  sun,  and  our  barometrical  regis- 
ter west  of  Laramie.  Fortunately,  our 
other  journals  contained  duplicates  of  the 
most  important  barometrical  observations 
which  had  been  taken  in  the  mountains. 
These,  with  a  few  scattered  notes,  were  all 
that  had  been  preserved  of  our  meteorologi- 
cal observations.  In  addition  to  these,  we 
saved  the  circle;  and  these,  with  a  few 
blankets,  constituted  everything  that  had 
f)een  rescued  from  the  waters. 

Tfie  day  was  running  rapidly  away,  and 
it  wa«  necessary  to  reach  Goat  island,  whi- 
ther the  party  had  preceded  us,  before  night. 
In  this  uncertain  country,  the  traveller  is  so 
much  in  the  power  of  chance,  that  we  be- 
came somewhat  uneasy  in  regard  to  them. 
Should  anythng  have  occurred,  in  the  brief 
interval  of  our  separation,  to  prevent  our  re- 
joining them,  our  situation  would  bo  rather 
a  desperate  one.  We  had  not  a  morsel  of 
provieions — our  arms  and  ammunition  wern 
J.  ne — and  we  were  entirely  at  the  merry  of 
ttiiy  straggling  party  of  savages,  and  not  a. 
little  in  danger  *■  Mtarvation.  We  therefore 
set  out  at  ona  :  two  parties.  Mr.  Preuss 
and  myself  on  the  left,  and  the  mesa  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  Climbing  oat  of 
the  canon,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  very 
broken  country,  where  we  were  not  yet  able 
to  recognize  any  locality.  In  the  course  of 
our  descent  through  the  cafion,  the  rock, 
which  at  the  upper  end  was  of  the  decom- 
posing grai'.ito,  changed  into  a  varied  sand- 
Btone  formation.    The  hills  and  points  of  the 


ridges  were  covered  with  fragments  of  a 
yellow  sandstone,  of  which  the  strata  wore 
sometimes  displaved  in  the  broken  ravines 
which  interrupted  our  coiir.'se,  and  made  our 
walk  extremely  fatiguing.  At  one  point  of 
the  cafion  the  red  argillaceous  sandstonn 
rose  in  a  wall  of  five  hundred  feet,  surmount- 
ed by  a  stratum  of  white  sandstone  ;  and  in 
an  opposite  ravine  acolunm  of  red  ."findstono 
rose,  in  form  like  a  steeple,  aliout  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  high.  The  scenery  was  extreme- 
ly picturesque,  and  notwithstanding  our  for- 
lorn condition,  we  were  freiiuontly  obliged  to 
stop  and  admire  it.  Our  progress  was  not 
very  rapid.  We  had  emerged  from  the  water 
half  naked,  and,  on  arriving  at  the  top  of  the 
precipice,  I  found  myself  with  only  one  moc- 
casin. The  fragments  of  rock  made  walk- 
ing painful,  and  I  was  frequently  obliged  to 
stop  and  pull  out  the  thorns  of  the  caclua, 
here  the  prevailing  plant,  and  with  which  a 
few  minutes'  walk  covered  the  bottom  of  my 
feet.  From  this  ridge  the  river  emerged 
into  a  smiling  prairie,  and,  descending  to  the 
bank  for  water,  we  were  joined  by  Benoist. 
Tiie  rest  of  the  party  were  out  of  sight, 
having  taken  a  more  inland  route.  We 
crossed  the  river  repeatedly — sometimes 
able  to  ford  it,  and  sometimes  swimming — 
climbed  over  the  ridges  of  two  more  canons, 
and  towards  evening  reached  the  cut,  which 
we  here  named  the  Hot  Spring  gate.  On 
our  previous  visit  in  July,  we  had  not  enter- 
ed this  pass,  reserving  it  for  our  descent  in 
the  boat ;  and  when  we  entered  it  this  even- 
ing, Mr.  Preuss  was  a  few  hundred  feet  in 
advance.  Heated  with  the  long  march,  he 
came  suddenly  upon  a  fine  bold  spring  gush- 
ing from  the  rock,  about  ten  feet  above  the 
river.  Eager  to  enjoy  the  crystal  water,  he 
threw  himself  down  for  a  hasty  draught,  and 
took  a  mouthful  of  water  almost  boiling  hot. 
lie  said  nothing  to  Benoist,  who  laid  himself 
down  to  drink ;  but  the  steam  from  the  water 
arrested  his  eagerne.=s,  and  he  escaped  the 
hot  draught.  We  had  no  thermometer  to 
ascertain  the  temperature,  but  I  could  hold 
my  hand  in  the  water  just  long  enough  to 
count  two  seconds.  There  are  eight  or  ten 
of  these  springs  discharging  thernselvos  by 
streams  large  enough  to  be  called  runs.  A 
loud  hollow  noise  was  heard  from  the  rock, 
which  I  supposed  to  be  produced  by  the  fall 
of  the  water.  The  strata  immediately  where 
they  issue  is  a  fine  white  and  calcareous 
sandstone,  covered  with  an  incrustation  of 
common  salt.  Leaving  this  Thermopyla;  of 
the  west,  in  a  short  walk  we  reached  the  red 
ridge  which  has  been  described  as  lying  just 
above  Goat  I.sland.  Ascending  this,  we 
found  some  fresh  tracks  and  a  button,  which 
showed  that  the  other  men  had  already  ar- 
rived. A  shout  from  the  man  who  (Irst 
readied  the  top  of  the  ridge,  responded  to 


11843. 

o<l   with  frngmonfs  of  a 
of  which  tho  Plrata  wore 
p(i  in  the  broken  ravines 
our  course,  and  made  our 
ijiuincr.     At  one  point  of 
arijillafpous   sandstone 
ivc  hundred  feet,  surmount- 
wliite  sandstone  ;  and  in 
acohinin  of  red  Hfmdstono 
steeple,  ahoiit  one  hundred 
Tlio  scenery  was  extreme. 
I  notwithstrindinjf  our  for- 
were  fretpienlly  obliged  to 
t.     Our  prnrrress  was  not 
ad  emer]u;ed  trom  tiie  water 
m  arrivinijr  at  the  top  of  tlie 
mj'.self  witli  only  one  tnoc- 
ii/ents  of  rock  made  walk- 
was  frequently  oblij^ed  to 
the  thorns  of  tiie  cactus, 
g  plant,  and  with  wiiich  a 
V  covered  the  bottom  of  my 
ridge  tho  river  emerged 
irle,  and,  descendinif  to  the 
'c  were  joined  by  fienoist. 
party  were  out  of  sight, 
more   inland   route.      Wo 
3r    repeatedly — sometimes 
id  sometimes  swimming — 
•idges  of  two  more  canons, 
ing  reached  the  cut,  which 
he  Hot  Spring  gate.     On 
in  July,  we  had  not  enter- 
rving  it  for  onr  descent  in 
len  we  entered  it  this  even- 
ivas  a  few  hundred  feet  in 
d  with  the  long  march,  he 
x)n  a  fine  bold  spring  gush- 
:,  about  ten  feet  above  the 
enjoy  the  crystal  water,  lie 
ivnfor  a  hasty  draugiit,  and 
)f  water  almost  boiling  hot. 
;o  Benoist,  who  laid  himself 
ut  the  steam  from  the  water 
rness,  and  he  escaped  the 
e  had  no  thermometer  to 
nperature,  but  I  could  hold 
water  just  long  enough  to 
s.     There  are  eight  or  ten 
discharging  theinselves  by 
)ugh  to  be  called  runs.     A 
;  was  lieard  from  the  rocir, 
to  be  produced  by  tho  fall 
le  strata  immediately  where 
fine  white  and  calcareous 
d  with  an  incrustation  of 
saving  this  Thermopyla;  of 
irtwalk  we  reached  the  red 
>een  described  as  lying  just 
nd.      Ascending  this,  we 
tracks  and  a  button,  which 
Dther  men  had  already  ar- 
from  the   man  who  (lr»t 
if  the  ridge,  responded  to 


,812.J 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  xNARRATlVE. 


SI 


from  Iwlow,  informed  us  that  our  friends  were 
iill  on  the  island  ;  and  wo  were  soon  among 
them.  We  found  some  pieces  of  biilKilo 
standing  around  the  lire  for  us,  and  mana^red 
to  get  some  dry  clothes  among  the  people. 
A  sudden  storm  of  rain  drove  us  into  the 
best  shelter  wo  could  lind,  where  we  slept 
soundly,  after  one  of  tlic  most  fatiguing  days 
I  have  ever  experienced. 

Avgwfl  26. — Early  this  morning  I.ajeu- 
nesse  was  sent  to  the  wreck  Tor  the  articles 
which  had  been  saved,  and  i..K)ut  noon  we 
left  tho  island.  Tho  marc  which  wo  had 
left  here  in  July  had  much  improved  in  con- 
dition, and  she  served  us  well  again  for  some 
time,  but  was  finally  abandoned  at  a  subse- 
quent part  of  the  journey.  At  10  in  the 
morning  of  the  2(itli  wo  reached  Cache 
camp,  where  wo  found  everything  imdis- 
turbed.  Wo  disinterred  our  deposit,  ar- 
ranged our  carts  whicli  had  been  left  here  on 
tho  way  out,  and,  travelling  a  few  miles  in 
the  afternoon,  encamped  for  the  night  at  tho 
ford  of  the  Platte. 

Aiigui't  27. — At  midday  we  halted  at  the 
place  where  wo  liad  taken  dinner  on  the  27th 
of  July.  The  country  which,  when  we  pass- 
ed up,  looked  as  if  the  hard  winter  frosts 
had  passed  over  it,  had  now  assumed  a  new 
face,  so  much  of  vernal  freshness  had  been 
given  to  it  by  tho  late  rains.  The  Platte  was 
exceedingly  low — a  mere  line  of  wateramong 
the  sandbars.  We  reached  Laramie  fort  on 
tho  last  day  of  August,  after  an  absence  of 
forty-two  days,  and  liad  the  pleasure  to  find 
our  friends  all  well.  The  fortieth  day  had 
been  fi.\ed  for  our  return  ;  and  the  quick  eyes 
of  the  Indians,  who  were  on  the  lookout  for 
us,  discovered  our  flag  as  we  wound  among 
the  hills.  The  fort  saluted  us  with  repeated 
discharges  of  its  single  piece,  which  we  re- 
turned with  scattered  volleys  of  our  small 
arms,  and  felt  the  joy  of  a  home  reception  in 
fretting  back  to  this  remote  station,  which 
seemed  so  far  off  as  we  went  out. 

On  the  morning  of  the  3d  of  September  we 
bade  adieu  to  our  kind  friends  at  the  fort, 
and  continued  our  homeward  journey  down 
the  Platte,  which  was  glorious  with  the  au- 
tumnal splendor  of  innumerable  flowers  in 
full  and  brilliant  bloom.  On  the  warm  sands, 
among  ihehelianlhi,  one  of  the  characteristic 
plants,  we  saw  great  numbers  of  rattlesnakes, 
of  which  five  or  six  were  killed  in  the  morn- 
ing's ride.  We  occupied  ourselves  in  im- 
proving our  previous  survey  of  the  river; 
and,  as  the  weather  was  fine,  astronomical 
observations  were  generally  made  at  night 
and  at  noon. 

We  halted  for  a  short  time  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  6th  with  a  village  of  Sioux  In- 
dians, some  of  whose  chiefs  wo  had  met  at 
Laramie.  The  water  in  the  Platte  was  ex- 
tremely low ;  in  many  places,  the  large  ex- 


panse of  sands,  with  some  occasional  stunted 
trees  lui  the  bunks,  gave  it  tho  air  of  the  sea- 
coast ;  the  bed  of  the  river  being  merely  a 
succession  of  saiulbars,  among  which  tho 
channel  was  divided  into  rivulets  a  few  inches 
deep.  We  crossed  and  recrosscd  with  our 
carts  repeatedly  and  at  our  pleasure  ;  and, 
whenever  an  obstruction  barred  our  way,  in 
tho  shape  of  precipitous  blufls  that  came 
down  upon  the  river,  we  turned  directly  into 
it,  and  made  our  way  along  tho  sandy  bed, 
with  no  other  inconvenience  than  the  fre- 
quent quicksands,  which  greatly  fatigued  our 
animals.  Disinterring  on  the  way  the  '•ache 
which  Jiadbeen  made  by  our  party  when  they 
ascended  the  river,  we  reached  without  ac- 
cident, on  the  evening  of  tho  12th  of  Sep- 
tember,our  old  encampment  of  the  2d  of  July, 
at  the  junction  of  the  forks.  Our  cache  of 
tho  barrel  of  jiork  was  found  undisturbed, 
and  proved  a  seasonable  addition  to  our  stock 
of  provisions.  At  this  place  I  had  determin- 
ed to  make  another  attempt  to  descend  tho 
Platte  by  water,  and  accordingly  spent  two 
days  in  tho  construction  of  a  bull  boat.  Men 
were  sent  out  on  tho  evening  of  our  arrival, 
the  necessary  number  of  bulls  killeii,  and 
their  skins  brought  to  the  camp.  Four  of 
the  best  of  them  were  strongly  sewed  to- 
gether with  buHiilo  sinew,  and  stretched 
over  a  basket  frame  of  willow.  Tho  seams 
were  then  covered  with  ashes  and  tallow,  and 
tho  boat  left  exposed  to  the  sun  for  the  great- 
er part  of  one  day,  which  was  sufficient  to 
dry  and  contract  the  skin,  and  make  the  whole 
work  solid  and  strong.  It  had  a  rounded 
bow,  was  eight  feet  long  and  five  broad,  and 
drew  with  four  men  about  four  inches  water. 
On  the  morning  of  the  16th  wc  embarked  in 
our  hide  boat.  Sir.  Preuss  and  myself,  with 
two  men.  We  dragged  her  over  the  sands 
for  three  or  four  miles,  and  then  lel't  her  on 
a  bar,  and  abandoned  entirely  nil  further  at- 
tempts to  navigate  this  river.  The  names 
given  by  tho  Indians  are  always  remarkably 
appropriate ;  and  certainly  none  was  ever, 
more  so  than  that  which  they  liave  given  to 
this  stream — "  the  Nebraska,  or  Sliallow 
river."  Walking  steadily  the  remainder  of 
the  day,  a  little  before  dark  we  overtook  our 
people  at  their  remaining  camp,  about  twenty- 
one  miles  below  the  junction.  The  next 
morning  we  crossed  the  Platte,  and  continued 
our  way  down  the  river  bottom  on  the  left 
blink,  where  we  found  an  excellent  plainly 
beaten  road. 

On  the  I8th  we  reached  Grand  Island, 
whicli  is  fifty-two  miles  long,  with  an  ave- 
rasre  breadth  of  one  mile  and  three-quarters. 
It  has  on  it  some  small  eminences,  and  is 
sufficiently  elevated  to  be  secure  from  tho 
annual  floods  of  tho  river.  As  has  been 
already  remarked,  it  is  well  timbered,  with 
an  excellent  soil,  and  recommends  itself  to 


=<irtjfj»willlW«"'i^.wawap..ia»».rtt»rt;«»^«aKj«ai..M.wiw^iM:r«flfc4>*^^«» 


CAPT.  FREMONTS  NARRATIVE. 


\  ^ 


[1842 


notice  ns  the  best  point  for  a  military  position 
orj  the  Fiowcfl'liitte. 

On  llic  'J-2(l  wo  arrived  at  tlio  village  of 
the  CJrami  I'rtwnoes,  on  tiie  rjirht  hank  of  the 
river,  about  tliirty  miles  above  the  month  of 
the  Loup  fork.  They  wore  Raiherinp  in 
their  corn,  aiiJ  wo  obtamod  from  them  a  very 
welcome  supply  of  vegetables. 

The  morning  of  tlie  2Uh  wo  reached  the 
Lonp  fork  of  the  Platte.  At  the  place  where 
■,ve  forded  it,  this  stream  was  four  himdred 
and  thirty  yards  broad,  vith  a  fwift  current 
of  clear  water ;  in  this  respect,  diil'ering  from 
the  I'lattc,  which  has  a  yellow  muddy  color, 
derived  from  the  limestone  and  marl  lorm- 
aiion,  of  which  wo  have  previously  spoken. 
The  ford  was  ditticult,  as  tiio  water  vvai  so 
deep  that  it  came  into  the  body  of  the  carts, 
and  we  reached  the  opposite  bank  alter  re- 
peated attempts,  ascending  and  descending 
the  bed  of  the  river  in  order  to  avail  our- 
selves of  the  bars.  Wo  encamped  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  fork,  in  the  point  of  land  at 
its  junction  with  the  Platte.  During  the 
two  days  that  we  remained  here  for  astr  - 
nomical  observations,  the  bad  weather  pi  r- 
mittcd  us  to  obtain  but  one  good  observation 
for  the  latitude— a  meridian  altitude  of  the 
sun,  which  gave  for  the  latitude  of  the  mouth 
oftheLoupfork,41°22'll". 

Five  or  six  days  previously,  I  had  sent 
forward  C.  Lambert,  with  two  men,  to  Belle- 
vue,  with  directions  to  ask  from  Mr.  P. 
Sarpy,  the  gentleman  in  charge  of  the  Ame- 
rican Company's  establishment  at  that  place, 
the  aid  of  his  carpenters  in  constructing  a 
boat,  in  which  1  nroposed  to  descend  the 
Missouri.  On  the  ufternoon  of  the  27th  we 
met  one  of  the  men,  who  had  been  despatch- 
ed by  Mr.  Sarpy  with  a  welcome  supply  of 
provisions  and  a  very  kind  note,  which  gave 
us  the  very  gratifying  intelligence  that  our 
boat  was  in  rapid  progress.  On  the  evening 
of  the  30th  we  encamped  in  an  almost  im- 
penetrable undergrowth  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Platte,  in  the  point  of  land  at  its  conflu- 
ence with  the  Missouri— three  hundred  and 
fifteen  miles,  according  to  our  reckoning, 
from  the  junction  of  tiio  forks,  and  five  hun- 
dred and  twenty  from  Fort  Laramie. 

From  the  junction  we  had  found  the  bed 
of  the  Platte  occupied  with  numerous  islands, 
many  of  them  very  large,  and  all  well  tim- 


bered ;  posscssinir,  as  well  as  the  Iwttom 
lands  ot  the  river,  a  very  excellent  soil. 
With  the  c.N-ccption  of  some  scattered  groven 
on  the  banks,  the  Imttoins  are  generally 
without  timber.  A  portion  of  these  consist 
of  low  grounds,  covered  with  a  profusion  of 
tine  grasses,  and  are  probably  inundated  in 
the  spring;  the  remaining  part  is  high  ri.cr 
prairie,  entirely  beyond  the  influence  of  the 
floods.  The  breadth  of  the  river  is  \isually 
three-quarters  of  a  mile,  exiH'pt  where  it  ia 
enlarged  by  islands.  That  portion  of  its 
cour.se  which  is  occupied  by  Grand  island 
lias  an  average  breadth,  from  ahore  lo  shore, 
of  two  and  a  half  miles. 

October  1. — I  rose  this  morning  long  be 
fore  daylight,  and  heard  with  a  feeling  of 
pleasure  the  tinkling  of  cow-bells  at  the  set- 
tlements on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Missouri. 
Early  in  the  day  we  reached  Mr.  Harpy's 
residence ;  and,  in  the  security  and  comfort 
of  his  hospitable  mansion,  felt  the  pleasure 
of  beinff  again  within  the  pale  of  civilisa- 
tion.     VVe  found   our  boat  on  the  stocks; 
a  fev;  days  sufliced  to  complete  her ;  and,  in 
the  afternoon  of  the  4th,  we  embarked  on 
the   Missouri.     All  our  equipage — horses, 
carta,  and  the    malerkl  of  the  camp — had 
been  sold  at  public  auction  at  Bellevue. 
The  strength  of  niy  party  enabled  me  to  man 
the  boat  with  ten  oars,  relieved  every  hour ; 
and  we  descended  rapidly.     Early  on  the 
morning  of  the  tenth,  we  halted  to  make 
some  astronomical  observations  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Kansas,  exactly  four  months  since  we 
had  left  thb  trading  post  of  Mr.  Cyprian 
Chouteau,  on  the  same    river,  ten  miles 
above.     On  our  descent  to  this  place,  we 
had  employed   ourselves  in  surveying  and 
sketching  the  Missouri,  making  astronomi- 
cal observations  regularly  at  night  and  at 
midday,  whenever  the  weather  permitted. 
These  operations  on  the  river  were  conti- 
•.nied  until  oar  arrival  at  the  city  of  St.  Louis, 
iltissouri,  on  tho  17th.    At  St.   Louis,  the 
sain  of  our  remaining  effects  was  made ; 
and,  leaving  that  city  by  steamboat  on  the 
18th,  I  had  the  honor  to  report  to  you  at  the 
city  of  WashinjTton  on  the  29th  of  Ocl;ober. 
Very  respectfully,  sir. 

Your  obedient  servant, 

J.  C.  FREMONT, 
fid  Lkut.  Corps  of  TopogH  Engineers 


[1841 

as  well  as  the  Iwttom 
•,  a  very  oxcollcnt  soil, 
I  of  Bomo  scattered  f;rovi'H 
!  lM)tt<)iiis  are  ficnuriilly 
^  portion  of  these  consist 
vercd  with  a  profusion  of 
re  probably  iniuulated  in 
naininp  part  in  hij»h  ri.or 
foin\  the  inlhience  of  tiio 
Ith  of  the  river  is  usually 
I  mile,  rxiH'pt  where  it  ia 
Is.  That  portion  of  its 
ccupicd  by  Grand  island 
adtli,  from  shore  lo  shore, 

miles, 
so  this  morning  long  be 

heard  with  a  feeling  of 
ng  of  cow-bells  at  the  set- 
josite  side  of  the  Missouri, 
we  reached  Mr.  Harpy's 

the  security  and  comlori 
nansion,  felt  the  pleasure 
Lhin  the  pale  of  civilisa- 

our  boat  on  the  stocks  •, 
I  to  complete  her ;  and,  in 
the  4th,  we  embarked  on 
ill  our  equipage — horses, 
aleriel  of  the  camp — had 
(lie  auction  at  Sellevue. 
y  party  enabled  me  to  man 
oars,  relieved  every  hour ; 
J  rapidly.  Early  on  the 
enth,  we  halted  to  make 
I  observations  at  the  mouth 
ictly  four  months  since  we 
ing  post  of  Mr.  Cyprian 
e  same  river,  ten  miles 
descent  to  this  place,  we 
irselves  in  surveying  and 
ssouri,  making  astronomi- 
regularly  at  night  and  at 
r  the  weather  permitted. 

on  the  river  were  conti- 
val  at  the  city  of  St.  Louis, 

17th.  At  St.  Louis,  the 
lining  effects  was  made ; 
;  city  by  steamboat  on  the 
mor  to  report  to  you  at  the 
on  on  the  29th  of  October, 
lly,  sir, 
ur  obedient  servant, 

J.  C.  FREMONT, 
'orps  of  TopogH  Engineers 


<;APT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


ASTRONOMICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 
The  Inngiiudea  given  in  (he  subjoined  table  art  referred  to  the  meridian  of  Oreenwiek, 


For  th«  dntorniiniition  of  aHtronominal  posi- 
tinna,  wo  were  provided  with  the  following  iu- 
■U'umcnts; 
One  telescope,  majjiiiryinc  power  12U. 
One  circle,  by  Giinibey,  Paris. 
Olio  sextant,  by  Gambcy,  Paris. 
On  )  sextant,  by  Troiighton. 
Ono  box  chronometer,  No.  7,810,  by  French. 
One  Urockbunk  pocket  cliroiioiiieter. 
One  small  watch  with  a  light  chronometer  bal- 
oncp,  No.  4,(),')2,  by  Arnold  &  Dent. 
Tho  riito  of  tlio  clironometer  7,8l0,  is  exhibit- 
ed ill  tho  foUov/injr  statement: 

"  Nkw  York,  May  5,  1B42. 
"  Chronometer  No.  7,810,  by  French,  is  this 
iay  at  noon — 
"  Slow  of  Greenwich  mean  time         11'  4" 
"  Foul  of  New  York  mean  tinio  4/i.  45'  1" 
"  Loses  per  day 

"  ARTHUR  STEWART, 

"  74  Merchants'  Exchange." 


*  Iff 


An  nrrident  among  some  rough  ground  in 
tho  neighborhood  of  the  KunHas  nvor,  hI rained 
tho  balance  of  this  chronometer,  (No.  7,810,) 
and  rsndercd  it  uselers  during  tho  reniiiiniler  of 
tho  canipaiirn.  From  tho  llth  of  Juno  to  tho 
21lh  of  August,  moiuHively,  the  lougiludis  de- 
pend upon  tho  Urockbunk  pocket  chrononicler  ; 
the  rate  of  wliidi,  on  leaving  St.  I^uis,  was 
fourteen  seconds.  Tho  rate  obtained  by  obser- 
vutions  at  Fort  Laraniio,  14".05,  has  been  used 
in  calculation. 

From  the  94th  of  August  until  llio  termina- 
tion of  tho  journey.  No.  4,(i33  (of  which  tho 
rate  was  3r)".79)  was  used  for  the  same  pur- 
poses. Tho  rate  of  this  watch  was  irregular, 
and  I  place  but  little  confidence  in  tho  few 
longitudes  which  depend  upon  it,  though,  so  far 
as  wo  have  any  means  of  judging,  they  appear 
tolerably  correct 


Table  of  latitudes  and  longitudes,  deduced  from  observations  made  during 

the  journey.  . 


Date. 


1842. 

May  27 

Juno    8 

IG 

18 
19 
20 
25 
S6 
27 
28 
30 
iair    2 

4 
6 
7 
11 
12 
13 
14 
16 
23 
24 
25 
26 
36 
38 
39 


station. 


St.  Louis,  resideiiC'i  of  Colonel  Brant     -        -        - 
Chouteau's  lower  trading  post,  Kansas  river    - 
lieft  bank  of  the  Kansas  river,  seven  miles  above  th« 

ford 

Vermilion  crjck  .         .        .         .        - 

Cold  Springs,  near  the  road  to  Laramie 

big  Blue  river -         - 

Little  Blue  river  ....-- 

Right  bank  of  Platte  river 

Right  bank  of  Platte  river 

Right  bank  of  Platte  river    -        •        -        -        - 

Right  bank  of  Platte  river 

Junction  of  north  and  south  forks  of  the  Nebraska 

or  Platte  river  -         - 

South  fork  of  Platte  river,  left  bank. 
South  fork  of  Platte  river,  island  .         .        -         - 
South  fork  of  Platte  river,  left  bank       .        -        - 
South  fork  of  Platte  river,  St.  J^rala's  fort 

Crow  creek 

On  a  stream,  name  unknown  .  .  .  - 
Horse  creek,  Goshen's  hole?  .  .  .  - 
Fort  Ijaramie,  near  the  mouth  of  Laramie's  fork 

North  fork  of  Platte  river 

North  fork  of  Platte  river 

North  fork  of  Platte  river.  Dried  Meat  camp  - 
North  fork  of  Platte  river,  noon  halt,       .        .        - 
North  fork  of  Platte  river,  mouth  of  Deer  creek      - 
North  fork  of  Platte  river,  Cache  camp 
i  North  fork  of  Platte  river,  left  baiA 


Latitude. 


Deg.  min.  sec. 

38  37  34 

39  05  57 

39  06  40 

39  15  19 

39  30  40 

39  45  08 

40  26  50 
40  41  06 
40  39  32 
40  39  51 

40  39  55 

41  05  05 

40  51  17 

40  53  26 

40  22  35 

40  41  59 

41  08  30 

41  40  13 

42  12  10 
42  39  25 
42  47  40 
42  51  35 
42  50  08 
42  ;)2  24 
42  50  53 
42  38  01 


Longitude. 


Deg.  min.  sec. 

94  25  46 

95  38  05 

96  04  07 
96  14  49 
90  32  35 
98  22  12 

98  45  49 

99  05  24 

100  05  47 

100  49  43 

103  07 

103  30  37 
105  12  12 

104  57  49 
104  39  37 
104  24  36 
104  47  43 

104  59  59 

105  50  45 

106  08  34 
106  38  26 
106  54  33 


*?£- 


3**W 


"«»WSft-*" 


CAl'T.  FUH.MONT'S  NAIlltATlVK. 
Table  of  lalUudca  and  lungUudcx—QMimvai^. 


[1849 


Dftla. 

1649. 
July  30 
Aug.    1 

4 

7 
8 


StatloD. 


Sept. 


Oct. 


8 
9 
10 
10 
IG 
17 
18 
19 
20 
20 
21 
23 
23 
25 
28 
29 
2 


5 
6 
6 
8 
10 


I<ptUude. 


LotifltiJe. 


North  fork  of  Platto  river,  C'.al  ;■  'and   - 

Sweet  Wotcr  river,  Olio  iiiii"  b<  u  ■•,    Hock  Indepell 

deuce . 

Sweet  VValcr  river 

Sweet  Water  river       ■'""', 
Littio  Sandv  creek,  tributary  to  tliu  '  'olorudo  of  llio 

Wc8t       - 

-N'ew  fork,  tributary  to  the  Colorado 

Mouutuiii  luko 

lliglicBt  jieiik  of  lliu  Wind  river  mountains. 
Sweet  Water,  noun  halt        .         .         -         - 

Sweet  Water  river 

Sweet  Water  river 

Sweet  Water  river,  noon  halt 
Sweet  Water  river,  at  Rock  Independence     - 
North  fork  of  Platte  river,  iiKnilh  o.f  Sweet  Water 
Ilorso-nhoe  creek,  noon  halt  ... 

North  fork  of  Flutte  river,  right  bank  -  - 
North  fork  of  Plutto  river,  near  Scotl'H  blufl's  - 
North  fork  of  Platto  river,  right  bank,  six  miles  abov 

Chimney  rock  .         .         .         -         - 

North  f"!  k  of  Platte  river,  month  of  AhIi  creek 
North  luik  of  Platte  river,  right  bank    - 
North  fork  of  Platto  river,  Cedar  blulfii  - 
Platto  river,  noon  halt  .... 

Platto  river,  left  bank 

Platto  river,  left  bunk 

Platto  river,  left  bunk 

Platte  river,  left  bank 

Platto  river,  noon  halt,  lef,  bank    - 

Platto  river,  left  bank 

Platte  river,  left  bank 

Platte  river,  noon  halt,  left  bank   - 

Platto  river,  left  bank 

Platte  river,  mouth  of  Loup  fork  .  -  - 
Platte  river,  mouth  of  Elk  Horn  river    - 

Platte  tiver,  left  bank 

Bellevue,  at  the  post  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 

right  bank  of  the  Missouri  river 
Left  bank  of  the  Missouri,  opposite  to  the  right  bank 
of  the  mouth  of  the  Platto 

Missouri  river 

Bertholet's  island,  noon  halt  "         '         " 

Missouri  river,  mouth  of  Nishnabatona  river   - 
Missouri  river,  left  bank        -         -         - 
MtMOuri  river,  mouth  of  the  Kansas  river 


Drg.  mill,  an:  Vflf  •'"''".  "r 

42  :J3  27  107  13  2'.i 

42  29  AG  107  25  2.1 

.{->  32  31  IIIH  30  i:i 

42  27  15  109  21  3-' 

42  27  34  109  37  5'J 

42  4J  40  109  58  11 

4:.'  49  49  110  08  0.'; 


42 

24 

39 

42 

22 

22 

42 

31 

40 

42 

20 

10 

42 

29 

36 

42 

27 

18 

42 

24 

24 

42 

01 

40 

41 

54 

38 

41 

43 

36 

41 

17 

19 

41 

14 

30 

41 

10 

10 

40 

54 

31 

40 

52 

34 

40 

42 

38 

40 

40 

21 

40 

39 

44 

40 

48 

19 

40 

54 

02 

41 

05 

37 

41 

20 

20 

41 

22 

59 

41 

22 

11 

41 

09 

34 

41 

02 

15 

41 

08 

24 

41 

02 

11 

40 

34 

08 

40 

27 

08 

40 

16 

40 

39 

36 

09 

39 

06 

03 

95    30 


J*  ' 


"^^m. 


^-jasgt-  "-««R 


[1B49 


Lonfltaile. 


mill.  »ec.  Vi'U  *'""'•  »"• 

:i3  27  107  13  yj 

29  5G  107  25  2.1 

32  31  IIIH  30  l.") 

27  15  lO'j  21  32 

27  3-i  10!)  37  .I'J 

4  J  40  ID!)  58  11 

49  49  110  08  o:; 


21  32 

22  22 
31  4(j 
20  10 
2!)  3G 
27  18 
24  24 
01  40 
54  38 


95    30 


I  ins  11 

)  34  08 

3  27  08 

9  16  40 

"- 

)  36  03 

i    06  03 

-a- 


A  REPORT 

or 

THE  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION 

TO 

OREGON    AND   NORTH   CALIFORNIA 

m  TWt  IfEARS  1843-'44. 


Washington  City,  March  1,  lb  10. 
Colonel  J.  J.  Abert,  Chief  of  the 
Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers  : 
Sm  : — In  imrsiianco  of  your  instructions, 
to  connect  the  rcconnoissance  of  1842,  whioli 
I  had  the  iionnr  to  eonduct,  with  the  surveys 
of  Commiuidcr  Wilkes  on  the  coast  of  the 
Pacific  ocean,  so  as  to  give  n  connected  sur- 
vey of  the  interior  of  our  continent,  I  i)ro- 
ceeded  to  the  Great  West  early  in  the  Bi)rini,' 
of  1843,  and  arrived,  on  the  17tli  of  May, 
at  the  little  town  of  Kansas,  on  the  Mis- 
souri frontier,  near  the  junction  of  the  Kan- 
r;:8  river  with  the  Missouri  river,  where  I 
WIS  detained  near  two  weeks  in  compli'ting 
the  necessary  preparations  for  the  extended 
explorations  which  my  instructions  contem- 
plated. 

My  party  consisted  principally  of  Creole 
and  Canadian  French,  and  Americans, 
amounting  in  all  to  39  men ;  among  whom 
you  will  recognise  several  of  those  who 
■vero  with  me  in  my  first  expedition,  and 
who  have  been  favorably  brought  to  your 
.otice  in  a  former  report.  Mr.  Thomas 
Fitzpatrick,  whom  many  years  of  hardship 
and  exposure  in  the  western  territories,  had 
rendered  familiar  with  a  portion  of  the  coun- 
try it  was  designed  to  explore,  had  been  se- 
lected as  our  guide;  and  Mr.  Charles 
Preuss,  who  had  been  my  assistant  in  the 
previous  journey,  was  again  associated  with 
me  in  the  same  capacity  on  the  present  ex- 
pedition. Agreeably  to  your  directions, 
Mr.  Theodore  Talbot,  of  Washington  city, 
had  been  attached  to  the  party,  with  a  view 
to  advancement  in  his  profession ;  and  at 
St.  Louis  I  had  been  joined  by  Mr.  Frede- 
rick Dwight,  a  gentleman  of  Springfield, 
Massachusetts,  who  availed  himself  of  our 
•rerland  journey,  to  visit  tha  Sandwich 


M.inds  and  China,  by  way  of  Fort  Van< 
convor.  , 

Tlio  men  engaged  for  the  service  wore  ; 


Alexis  Ayot, 
Fran(,'ois  Hadeau, 
Oliver  lioiiuliou, 
Hapliste  Uernier, 
John  \.  t'ampbell, 
John  G.  (Jampbell, 
Manuel  fJliapnian, 
Hansom  Clark, 
Philibert  Courteau, 
Michel  CrUis, 
William  Creuss, 
Clinton  Deforest, 
Baptiste  Derosier, 
Basil  Lajeimesse, 


liOuis  Mrnard, 
Louis  Montrcuil, 
Samuel  Neal, 
Alexis  Pera, 
Frunrois  I'i'ia, 
James  Power, 
Raphael  Proue, 
Oscar  Sarpy, 
Baptiste  Taiieau, 
Charles  Tiiplin, 
Baptiste  Tesson, 
Auguste  Vasquez, 
Joseph  Verrut, 
Patrick  White, 


Franvois  Lajeunesse,  Tiery  Wright, 
Henry  Lee,  Louis  Zindel,  and 

Jacob  Dodson,  afree  young  colored  man  of 
Washington  city,  who  volunteered  to  ac- 
company the  expedition,  and  performed  his 
duty  manfully  throughout  the  voyage.  Two 
Delaware  Indians — a  fine-looking  old  rr.an 
and  his  son — wore  engaged  to  accompany 
the  expedition  as  hunters,  through  the  kind- 
ness of  Major  Cummins,  the  excellent  In- 
dian agent.  L.  Maxwell,  who  had  accom- 
panied the  expedition  as  one  of  the  hunters 
in  1843,  being  on  his  way  to  Taos,  in  Now 
Mexico,  also  joined  us  at  this  place. 

The  party  was  armed  generally  with 
Hall's  carbines,  which,  with  a  brass  12-Ib. 
howitzer,  had  been  furnished  to  me  from  the 
United  States  arsenal  at  St.  Louis,  agreea- 
bly to  the  orders  of  Colonel  S.  W.  Kearney, 
commanding  the  3d  military  division.  Three 
men  were  especially  detailed  for  the  man 
agement  of  this  piece,  under  the  charge  of 
Louis  Zindel,  a  native  of  Germany,  v^  ho  had 
been  10  years  a  non-commissioned  oflicoi 


^ 


CAI'T.  IIUI.MONT'H  NARIIATIVE. 


[1841 


of  artillery  in  tlip  I'ni.isi;iii  ;irmy,  iiinl  tt'<^»-  I 
larly  iiiMtnuUcd  in  tlm  liiiticH  of  liis  |iriil'rM. 
■inn.  'I'liu  caiiip  ciiuiiKi);)!  anil  iiroviMiotiit 
wore  tranHpiirli'il  in  twclv)'  cirls,  drawn 
each  iiy  two  niiik'n ;  and  a  li^'ht  covrt'il 
W!u;«n,  niituntcd  on  t;iHid  H|)rni|^M,  iiad  been 
providud  I'lir  tin;  Hal'or  eartia^'u  of  inHlru- 
nivntit.     'I'licHo  were  ; 

Uno  rvfractini;  tL>U'tico|ic,  by  Fraucnho- 
fer. 

One  rctlcctini;  circle,  by  (laiiiboy. 

Two  HuxtantM,  by  'I'rouKliton. 

One  iiockot  chrononittcr,  No.  837,  by 
GofTi!,  I'alnuintli. 

Ono  pocket  chronometer,  No.  730,  by 
Urockl)ank. 

One  Hvpliiin  barometer,  by  Huntcn,  Paris. 

One  cidtern  barometer,  by  Fryo  &  Shaw, 
New  V'ork. 

8ix  therniomctors,  and  a  number  of  small 
compasses. 

To  make  the  exploration  as  useful  as  poH- 
Bible,  I  determined,  in  conformity  to  you 
((cneral  instructions,  to  vary  the  routu  to 
the  liocky  mountains  from  that  followed  in 
the  year  184^.  'i"bo  route  was  then  up  the 
valley  of  the  Great  I'lattts  river  to  the  South 
Pass,  in  north  latitudn  42"  ;  the  route  now 
determined  on  was  up  the  valley  of  the 
Kansas  river,  and  to  the  head  of  tho  Ar- 
kansas river,  and  to  some  pass  in  tho  moun- 
tains, if  any  could  be  found,  at  tho  sources 
of  that  rivur. 

By  making  this  deviation  from  tho  former 
route,  the  problem  of  a  now  road  to  Oregon 
&nd  California,  in  a  climate  more  genial, 
I'lijht  'i  olved ;  and  a  better  knowledge 
obtained  of  an  important  river,  and  the  coun- 
i  ry  it  drained,  while  the  great  object  of  the 
expedition  would  iind  its  point  of  commence- 
ment at  tho  termination  of  the  former,  which 
was  at  that  great  gate  in  the  ridge  of  the 
Rocky  mountains  called  the  South  Pass, 
and  on  the  lofty  peak  of  the  mountain  which 
overlooks  it,  deemed  the  highest  peak  in  the 
ridge,  and  from  the  opposite  sides  of  which 
four  great  rivers  take  their  rise,  and  flow  to 
the  Pacific  or  the  Mississippi. 

Various  obstacles  delayed  our  departure 
until  the  morning  of  the  20th,  when  we  com- 
menced our  long  voyage ;  and  at  the  close  of  a 
day,  rendered  disagreeably  cold  by  incessant 
rain,  encamped  about  four  miles  beyond  the 
frontier,  on  the  verge  of  the  great  prairies. 

Resuming  our  journey  on  the  Slst,  after 
the  delay  of  a  day  to  complete  our  equip- 
ment and  furnish  ourselves  with  some  of 
the  comforts  of  civilized  life,  we  encamped 
in  the  evening  at  Elm  Grove,  in  company 
with  several  emigrant  wagons,  constituting 
a  party  which  was  proceeding  to  Upper  Cal- 
ifornia, under  the  direction  of  Mr.  J.  B. 
Childs,  of  Missouri.  The  wagons  were  va- 
riously freighted  with  goods,  furniture,  and 


f:irniin){  utiMiKiU,  roniaiiiing  amoni(  other 
tliinuH  an  euMre  xet  of  niiK'liii.n y  for  a  mill 
wliirh  Mr.  ChiliU  ilt'Hij,'iird  iTix'ting  on  tlit 
WMlcrs  of  tho  .S:uM','tiiirnti)  river  i'niptyin({ 
into  llio  bay  of  .San  l''ranci»co. 

We  «cn^  joiiiLMl  hi-re  by  Mr.  AVilliam 
(filpiii,  of  NlisMoiiri,  who,  inli'hdiii;;  thin 
year  to  viiit  the  M'ttlenieiitti  in  Ore^'nii,  had 
been  invited  to  ari'imipaiiy  un,  anl  proved 
ii  ii.Mcful  and  a^reiNiliN'  aililitmii  to  ilie  par- 
ty. From  thin  enranipincnt,  our  route  un- 
til the  3(1  of  Juno  wna  ncarlv  the  saino  uh 
tiiat  duscribcd  to  you  in  181'.'.  Trains  of 
wa(,'on.i  were  almost  coiisitaiiily  in  (*i(.'lit ; 
giving  to  the  road  :i  |io|iuIoun  and  aniiii;  ed 
appearance,  althon(,'li  the  jrrrati'r  portiui.  .,! 
tlio  eini^jrants  were  collected  at  llio  crosf- 
iiig,  or  already  on  thoir  march  beyond  liie 
Kansa-s  river. 

lii.'aviiij!:  at  the  ford  the  UKiial  emigrant 
road  to  tiie  mountains,  we  continued  our 
routo  along  tho  southern  siiie  of  tliu  Kan- 
sas, where  wo  found  tho  country  much  more 
broken  than  on  the  northern  side  of  tho 
river,  and  where  our  progress  was  much 
delayed  by  the  numerous  small  streams, 
which  obliged  us  to  maku  frequent  bridges. 
On  the  morning  of  the  4th,  we  crossed  a 
handsome  stream,  called  by  tho  Indiana  Ot- 
ter creek,  about  130  feet  wide,  where  •  iiat 
stratum  of  limestone,  which  forms  the  bed, 
made  an  excellent  ford.  V\'e  uiet  here  a 
small  party  of  Kansas  and  Delaware  In 
dians,  the  latter  returning  from  a  hunting 
and  trapping  expedition  on  the  upper  waters 
of  the  river ;  and  on  tho  heights  above  were 
five  or  six  Kansas  women,  engaged  in  dig- 
ging prairie  potatoes,  (psoralen  cicvlenta.) 
On  the  aftornoon  of  the  0th,  while  busily 
engaged  in  crossing  a  wooded  stroim,  we 
were  thrown  into  a  little  confusion  by  the 
sudden  arrival  of  Maxwell,  who  entered  the 
camp  at  full  speed  at  the  head  of  a  war 
party  of  Osage  Indians,  with  gay  red  blank- 
ets, and  heads  shaved  to  the  scalp  lock. 
They  had  run  him  a  distance  of  about  nine 
miles,  from  a  creek  on  which  we  had  en- 
camped  the  day  previous,  and  to  which  he 
had  returned  in  search  of  a  runaway  horse 
belonging  to  Mr.  Dwight,  which  had  taken 
the  homeward  road,  carrying  with  him  sad- 
dle, bridle,  and  holstor  pistols.  The  Osages 
were  probably  ignorant  of  our  strength,  and, 
when  they  charged  into  the  camp,  drove  off 
a  number  of  our  best  horses ;  but  we  were 
fortunately  well  mounted,  and,  after  a  hard 
chase  of  seven  or  eight  miles,  succeeded  in 
recovering  them  all.  This  accident,  which 
occasioned  delay  and  trouble,  and  threatened 
danger  and  loss,  and  broke  down  some  good 
horses  at  the  start,  and  actually  endangered 
tho  expedition,  was  a  first  fruit  of  having 
gentlemen  in  company — very  ostimable,  to 
be  sure,  but  who  are  not  trained  to  the  caia 


[1841 

iini.'uiiiiitf  amont;  othei 
III'  iii;ii'iiii.<'i  V  I'lir  II  mill 
It'HJijiiril  erecting  on  tlit 
uini'iito  rivur  ciiiptyiiiy 
l''r;iii(;i»cii. 

Iicri!  Iiy  Mr.  Wiltijim 
ri,  who,  iriti'iiclin;;  tliin 
tliMiii'iiU  III  Orc^'iiii,  li:ul 
•niiiiniiiv  111,  iiiit  proved 
iililr  ailililimi  til  till',  par- 
'ampiiii'iil,  iMir  route  uii- 
rtas  iKiarly  tlio  saiim  us 
'ou  in  IHi'J.  'I'raiiiM  of 
iHt  constantly  in  t^i^'tit ; 
i  poiiuiouH  anil  anini  ml 
;li  tilts  jrrrati'r  poitioii  ..! 

collri'ti'il  at  I  III!  croBf- 
their  luaicli  lieyond  tliu 

ford  tlic  iiKiial  cinit^rant 
iiins,  wt!  foniiiiiiL'd  our 
iitliorn  Hiilu  of  tliu  Kan- 
1  tlio  country  niuuli  mnro 
lu  northurn  ttidt;  of  tho 
our  progress  was  inucli 
unieruus  HMiall  streams, 
>  iiiaku  frequent  bridf^es. 
•f  the  4tli,  wu  crosbcd  a 
jailed  by  the  Indiana  Ot- 

0  foot  wide,  where  iiat 
ic,  which  forms  tho  bed, 
.  ford.  Wo  met  hero  a 
insas  and  Delaware  In 
cturning  from  a  hunting 
lition  on  the  iijiper  waters 
n  tho  heights  above  were 
women,  engaged  in  dig- 
)e8,  (psoralen  vsciilenta.) 
of  the  6th,  while  busily 
jg  a  wooded  stroim,  we 
a  little  confusion  by  the 
laxwell,  who  entered  the 
d  at  the  head  of  a  wai 
lians,  with  gay  red  blank- 
aved  to  the  scalp  lock. 

a  distance  of  about  nine 
sk  on  which  we  had  en  • 
revious,  and  to  which  he 
iarch  of  a  runaway  horse 
}wight,  which  had  taken 

I,  carrying  with  him  sad- 
8tor  pistols.  Tlie  Oaages 
)rant  of  our  strength,  and, 

1  into  the  camp,  drove  off 
lest  horses ;  but  we  were 
lounted,  and,  after  a  hard 
eight  miles,  succeeded  in 

II.  This  accident,  which 
nd  trouble,  and  threatened 
id  broke  down  some  good 
,  and  actually  endangered 
IS  a  first  fruit  of  having 
pany — very  estimable,  to 
re  not  trained  to  the  cars 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


•  50         

t  1^ 


2.0 

1.8 


U    III  1.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


,Kiiia.w..>ti,ftf,-vii'-t.' 


Ltf 


Q^  ' 


\ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


i 
3- 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARUAl'IVE. 


W 


and  vigilance  and  self-dependence  which 
such  an  expedition  required,  and  who  are 
not  subject  to  the  orders  which  enforce  at- 
tention and  exertion.  We  arrived  on  the 
8th  at  the  mouth  of  the  Smoky-liill  fork, 
which  is  the  principal  southern  branch  of 
the  Kansas ;  forming  here,  by  its  junction 
with  the  Republican,  or  northern  branch, 
the  main  Kansas  river.  Neither  stream 
was  fordublc,  and  the  necessity  of  making 
a  raft,  together  with  bad  weather,  detained 
UB  here  until  the  morning  of  the  11th  ;  when 
we  resumed  our  journey  along  the  Republi- 
can fork.  By  our  observations,  the  junc- 
tion of  the  streams  is  in  latitude  39^  03'  38", 
longitude  96°  34'  5G",  and  at  an  elevation 
of  926  feet  above  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  For 
several  days  we  continued  to  travel  along 
the  Republican,  through  a  country  beauti- 
fully watered  with  numerous  streams,  hand- 
somely timbered;  and  rarely  an  incident 
occurred  to  vary  the  monotonous  resem- 
blance which  one  day  on  the  prairies  here 
bears  to  another,  and  which  scarcely  tr 
quire  a  particular  description.  Now  and 
then,  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  small  herd 
of  elk ;  and  occasionally  a  band  of  ante- 
lopes, whose  curiosity  sometimes  brought 
them  within  rifle  range,  would  circle  round 
us,  and  then  scour  off  into  the  prairies. 
As  we  advanced  on  our  road,  these  became 
more  frequent ;  but  as  we  journeyed  on  the 
line  usually  followed  by  the  trapping  and 
hunting  parties  of  the  Kansas  and  Dela- 
ware Indians,  game  of  every  kind  continued 
very  shy  and  wild.  The  bottoms  which 
form  the  immediate  valley  of  the  main  riv- 
er were  generally  about  three  miles  wide ; 
having  a  rich  soil  of  black  vegetable  mould, 
and,  for  a  prairie  country,  well  interspersed 
with  wood.  The  country  was  everywhere 
covered  with  a  considerable  variety  of 
grasses,  occasionally  poor  and  thin,  but  far 
more  frequently  lu.vurlant  and  rich.  We 
had  been  gradually  and  regularly  ascending 
in  our  progress  westward,  and  on  the  even- 
ing of  the  14th,  when  we  encamped  on  a 
little  creek  in  the  valley  of  the  Republican, 
265  miles  by  our  travelling  road  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Kansas,  we  were  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  1,520  feet.  That  part  of  the  river 
where  wo  were  now  encamped  is  called  by 
the  Indians  the  Big  Timber.  Hitherto  our 
route  had  been  laborious  and  extremely 
slow,  the  unusually  wet  spring  and  constant 
rain  having  so  saturated  the  whole  country 
that  it  was  necessary  to  bridge  every  water- 
course, and,  for  days  together,  our  usual 
march  averaged  only  five  or  six  miles. 
Finding  that  at  such  a  rate  of  travel  it 
would  be  impossible  to  comply  with  your 
instructions,  I  determined  at  this  place  to 
divide  the  party,  and,  leaving  Mr.  Fitzpat- 
liok  with  twenty-iive  men  in  charge  of  the 


provisions  and  heavier  baggage  of  the  camp, 
to  proceed  myself  in  advance,  with  a  light 
party  of  fifteen  men,  taking  M'iih  me  the 
howitzer  and  the  light  wagon  which  carried 
the  instruments. 

Accordingly,  on  the  morning  of  the  16th, 
the  parties  separated  ;  and,  bearing  a  little 
out  from  the  river,  with  a  view  of  heading 
some  of  the  numerous  uitluents,  after  a  few 
hours'  travel  over  somewhat  broken  ground, 
we  entered  upon  an  extensive  and  high  level 
prairie,  on  which  we  encamped  towards 
evening  at  a  little  stream,  whore  a  single 
dry  cotton-wood  afforded  tlio  necesxary  fuel 
for  preparing  supper.  Among  a  variety  of 
grasses  which  to-day  made  their  first  ap< 
pearance,  I  noticed  bunch-grass,  {festuca,) 
and  buffalo-grass,  {sesleria  dactyloides.) 
Amorpha  canescens  (lead  plant)  continued 
tho  characteristic  plant  of  the  country,  and 
a  narrow-leaved  lathyrus  occurred  during 
the  morning  in  beautiful  patches.  Sida  coc- 
cinea  occuncd  frequently,  with  a  psoralia 
near  psoralia  floribunda,  and  a  number  ot 
plants  not  hitherto  met,  just  verging  intt 
bloom.  The  water  on  which  we  had  en 
camped  belonged  to  Solomon's  fork  of 
the  Smoky-hill  river,  along  whose  trib 
utaries  we  continued  to  travel  for  severa* 
days. 

The  country  afforded  us  an  excellent 
road,  the  route  being  generally  over  high 
and  very  level  prairies ;  and  we  met  with 
no  other  delay  than  being  frequently  obliged 
to  bridge  one  of  the  numeroun  streams, 
which  were  well  timbered  with  ash,  elm, 
Cottonwood,  and  a  very  large  oak — the  lat 
ter  being  occasionally  five  and  six  feet  in 
diameter,  with  a  spreading  summit.  Sida 
coccinea  is  very  frequent  in  vermilion-col- 
ored patches  on  the  high  and  low  prairie ; 
and  I  remarked  that  it  has  a  very  pleasant 
perfume. 

The  wild  sensitive  plant  (schrankia  an- 
gustata)  occurs  frequently,  generally  on  the 
dry  prairies,  in  valleys  of  streams,  and  fre- 
quently on  the  broken  prairie  bank.  I  re- 
mark that  the  leaflet  close  instantly  to  a 
very  light  touch.  A.:iorpha,  with  the  sam* 
psoralea,  and  a  dwaif  species  of  lupinua, 
are  the  characteristic  plants. 

On  the  19th,  in  the  aflernoon,  we  crossed 
the  Pawnee  road  to  the  Arkansas,  and  trav- 
elling a  few  miles  onward,  the  monotony  of 
the  prairies  was  suddenly  dispelled  by  the 
appearance  of  five  or  six  buffalo  bulls,  form- 
ing a  vanguard  of  immense  herds,  among 
which  we  were  travelling  a  few  days  after- 
wards. Prairie  dogs  were  seen  for  the  first 
time  during  the  day ;  and  we  had  the  good 
fortune  to  obtain  an  antelope  for  supper. 
Our  elevation  had  now  increased  to  1,900 
feet.  Sida  coccinea  was  a  characteristic  on 
the  creek  bottoms,  and  buffalo  grass  ia  b»- 


'    i 


'f 


5H 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRA     !VE. 


[1843. 


coining  abundant  on  the  higher  parts  of  the 
ridges. 

Jujie  21. — During  the  forenoon  we  trav- 
elled up  a  branch  of  the  creek  on  which 
we  had  encamped,  in  a  broken  country, 
whore,  however,  the  dividing  ridges  always 
afforded  a  good  road.  Plants  were  few  ; 
and  with  the  short  sward  of  the  buffalo 
grass,  which  now  prevailed  everywhere, 
giving  to  the  prairies  a  smooth  and  mossy 
appearance,  were  mingled  frequent  patches 
of  a  beautiful  red  grass,  {aristida  pollens,) 
which  had  made  its  appearance  only  within 
the  last  few  days. 

We  halted  to  noon  at  a  solitary  cotton- 
wood  in  a  hollow,  near  which  was  killed  the 
first  buffalo,  a  large  old  bull. 

Antelope  appeared  in  bands  during  the 
day.  Crossing  here  to  the  affluents  of  the 
Republican,  we  encamped  on  a  fork,  about 
forty  feet  wide  and  one  foot  deep,  flowing 
with  a  swift  current  over  a  sandy  bed,  and 
well  wooded  with  ash-leaved  maple,  {tie- 
gundo  fraxinifolium,)  elm,  cotton-wood,  and 
a  few  white  oaks.  We  were  visited  in  the 
evening  by  a  very  violent  storm,  accompa- 
nied by  wind,  lightning,  and  thunder  ;  a  cold 
rain  falling  in  torrents.  According  to  the 
barometer,  our  elevation  was  2,130  feet 
above  the  gulf. 

At  noon,  on  the  23d,  we  descended  into 
the  valley  of  a  principal  fork  of  the  Re- 
publican, a  beautiful  stream  with  u  dense 
border  of  wood,  consisting  principally  of 
varieties  of  ash,  forty  feet  wide  and  four 
feet  deep.  It  was  musical  with  the  notes 
of  many  birds,  which,  from  the  vast  expanse 
of  silent  prairie  around,  seemed  all  to  have 
collected  here.  We  continued  during  the 
afternoon  our  route  along  the  river,  which 
was  populous  with  prairie  dogs,  (the  bot- 
toms being  entirely  occupied  with  their  vil- 
lages,) and  late  in  the  evening  encamped  on 
its  banks.  The  prevailing  timber  is  a  blue- 
foliaged  ash,  (fraxinus,  near  F.  Ameri- 
cana,) and  ash-leaved  maple.  Witi-  e 
■were  fraxinus  Americana,  cotton-'^  O'  \ 

long-leaved  willow.    We  gave  to  :  his  .a 

ihe  name  of  Prairie  Dog  river.  Elevation 
3,350  feet.  Our  road  on  the  25th  lay  over 
high  smooth  ridges,  3,100  feet  above  the 
sea ;  buflalo  in  great  nuwbtrs,  absolutely 
covering  the  face  of  the  t^ountry.  At  even- 
ing we  encamped  withiu  a  few  miles  of  the 
main  Republican,  on  a  little  creek,  where 
the  air  was  fragrant  with  the  perfume  of 
artemisia  filifolia,  which  we  here  saw  for 
the  first  time,  and  which  was  now  in  bloori. 
Shortly  after  leaving  our  encampment  on 
the  26th,  we  found  suddenly  that  the  nature 
of  the  country  had  entirely  changed.  Bare 
sand  hills  everywhere  surrounded  us  in  the 
undulating  ground  along  which  we  were 
moving ;  and  the  plants  peculiar  to  a  sandy 


soil  made  their  appcaninefi  in  abundance. 
A  ieiK  miles  further  wc  entered  the  valley 
of  a  large  stream,  afterwards  known  to  be 
Ihe  Republican  fork  of  tho  Kansas,  whosr 
shallow  waters,  with  a  depth  of  only  a  few 
inches,  were  spread  out  over  a  bed  of  yel- 
lowish white  sard  000  yards  wide.  With 
the  exception  of  one  or  two  distant  and  de- 
tached groves,  no  timber  of  any  kind  was 
to  be  seen  ;  and  the  features  of  the  country 
assumed  a  desert  character,  with  which  the 
broad  river,  struggling  fur  existence  among 
quicksands  along  the  treeless  banks,  was 
strikingly  in  keeping.  On  the  opposite  side, 
the  broken  ridges  assumed  almost  a  moun- 
tainous appeatince  ;  and  fording  the  stream, 
we  continued  on  our  course  among  these 
ridges,  and  encamped  late  in  the  evening  at 
a  little  pond  of  very  bad  water,  from  which 
we  drove  away  a  herd  of  buil'alo  that  were 
standing  in  and  about  it.  Our  encampment 
this  evening  was  3,500  feet  above  tho  sea. 
We  travelled  now  for  several  days  through 
a  broken  and  dry  sandy  region,  about  4,000 
feet  above  the  sea,  where  there  were  no 
running  streams ;  and  some  anxiety  was 
constantly  felt  on  account  of  the  uncertainty 
of  water,  which  was  only  to  be  found  in 
small  lakes  that  uccu  rred  occasionally  among 
the  hills.  The  discovery  of  these  always 
brought  pleasure  to  th?  camp,  as  around 
them  were  generally  green  flats,  which  af- 
forded abundant  pasturage  for  our  animals  ; 
and  here  were  usually  collected  herds  of  the 
buffalo,  which  now  were  scattered  over  all 
the  country  in  countless  numbers. 

The  soil  of  bare  and  hot  sands  supported 
a  varied  and  exuberant  growth  of  plants, 
which  were  much  farther  advanced  than  we 
had  previously  found  them,  and  whose  showy 
bloom  somewhat  relieved  the  appearance  of 
general  sterility.  Crossing  the  summit  of  an 
elevated  and  continuous  range  of  rolling 
hills,  on  the  afternoon  of  the  30th  of  June, 
we  found  ourselves  overlooking  a  broad  and 
misty  valley,  where,  about  ten  miles  distant, 
and  1,000  feet  below  us,  the  South  fork  of 
the  Platte  was  rolling  magnificently  along, 
swollen  with  the  waters  of  the  melting 
snows.  It  was  in  strong  and  refrebhing 
contract  with  the  parched  country  from 
which  ^^.  'lad  just  issued ;  and  when,  at 
night,  the  oroad  expanse  of  water  grew  in- 
distinct, it  almost  seemed  that  we  had 
pitched  our  tents  on  the  shore  of  th« 
sea. 

Travelling  along  np  the  valley  of  the 
river,  here  4,000  feet  above  the  sea,  in  the 
afternoon  of  July  1,  we  caught  a  far  and 
uncertain  view  of  a  faint  blue  mass  in  the 
west,  as  the  sun  sank  behind  it ;  and  from 
our  camp  in  the  morning,  at  the  mouth  of 
Bijou,  Long's  peak  and  the  neighborins 
mountains  stood  out  into  the  sky,  grand  ana 


[1843. 

)cnr:iiicft  in   nlnmdanea. 

r  \vc  ciiterod  the  valley 

afterwaiils  known  to  be 

(if  tlio  Kansas,  whow 

ti  a  depth  of  only  a  few 

out  over  a  bed  of  yel- 

000  yards  wide.     With 

e  or  two  distant  and  de- 

iniber  of  any  kind  was 

features  of  the  country 

laracter,  witli  which  the 

ing  for  existence  among 

he   treeless  banks,  was 

g.    On  the  opposite  side, 

assumed  almost  a  moun- 

and  fording  the  stream, 

ur  course  among  these 

ed  late  in  the  evening  at 

y  bad  water,  from  which 

erd  of  buffalo  that  were 

ut  it.     Our  encampment 

1,500  feet  above  the  sea. 

for  several  days  through 

indy  region,  about  4,000 

I,  where  there  were  no 

and   some  anxiety  was 

Bcount  of  the  uncertainty 

'as  only  to  be  found  in 

jrred  occasionally  among 

scovery  of  these  always 

to  th'?  camp,  as  around 

ly  green  flats,  which  af- 

.sturage  for  our  animals  ; 

illy  collected  herds  of  the 

were  scattered  over  all 

itless  numbers. 

and  hot  sands  supported 

erant  growth  of  plants, 

'arther  advanced  than  we 

id  them,  and  whose  showy 

ilieved  the  appearance  of 

l!rossing  the  summit  of  an 

inuous  range  of   rolling 

Don  of  the  30th  of  June, 

I  overlooking  a  broad  and 

!,  about  ten  miles  distant, 

w  us,  the  South  fork  of 

ling  magnificently  along, 

waters  of  the  nielting 

1  strong  and  refreshing 

parched   country   from 

t  issued ;   and  when,  at 

panse  of  water  grew  ia- 

t  seemed  that   we   had 

on  the  shore    of  th« 

I  up  the  valley  of  the 
eet  above  the  sea,  in  the 
1,  we  caught  a  far  and 
a  faint  blue  mass  in  the 
ank  behind  it ;  and  from 
lorning,  at  the  mouth  of 
.k  and  the  neighboring 
t  into  the  sky,  grand  ana 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARR.Vl'IVE. 


83 


luminously  white,  covered  to  their  bases 
with  glittering  snow. 

On  the  evening  of  the  3il,  as  we  were 
journeying  along  (he  partially  overflowed 
bottoms  of  the  Platte,  where  our  passage 
stirred  up  swarms  of  mosquitoes,  we  came 
unexpectedly  on  an  Indian,  who  was 
perchcid  upon  a  bluff,  curiously  watching  the 
movements  of  our  caravan.  He  belonged 
to  a  village  of  Oglallah  Sioux,  who  had  lost 
all  their  animals  in  the  severity  of  the  pre- 
ceding winter,  and  were  new  on  their  way 
up  the  Uijou  fork  to  beg  horses  from  the 
Arapahoes,  who  were  hunting  buffalo  at  the 
head  of  that  river.  Several  came  into  our 
camp  at  noon  ;  and,  as  they  were  hungry,  as 
usual,  they  were  provided  with  buffalo  meat, 
of  which  the  hunters  had  brought  in  an 
abundant  supply. 

About  noon,  on  the  4th  of  .Tuly,  we  ar- 
rived at  the  fort,  where  Mr.  St.  Vrain  re- 
ceived us  with  his  customary  kindness,  and 
invited  us  to  join  him  in  a  feast  which  had 
been  prepared  in  honor  of  the  day. 

Our  animals  were  very  much  worn  out, 
and  our  stock  of  provisions  entirely  ex- 
hausted when  we  arrived  at  the  fort ;  but  I 
was  disappointed  in  my  hope  of  obtaining 
relief,  as  1  found  it  in  a  very  impoverished 
condition ;  and  we  v^ere  able  to  procure  on- 
ly a  little  unbolted  Mexican  flour,  and  some 
salt,  with  a  few  pounds  of  powder  and  lead. 

As  regarded  provisions,  it  did  not  much 
matter  in  a  country  where  rarely  the  day 
passed  without  seeing  some  kind  of  game, 
and  where  it  was  frequer  '.ly  abundant.  It 
was  a  rare  thing  to  lie  down  hungry,  and 
we  had  already  learned  to  think  bread  a 
luxury  ;  but  we  could  not  proceed  without 
animals,  and  our  own  were  not  capable  of 
prosecuting  the  journey  beyond  the  moun- 
tains without  relief. 

I  had  been  informed  that  a  large  number 
of  mules  had  recently  arrived  at  Taos,  from 
Upper  California;  and  as  our  friend,  Mr. 
Maxwell,  was  about  to  continue  his  journey 
to  that  place,  where  a  portion  of  his  family 
resided,  I  engaged  him  to  purchase  for  me 
10  or  12  mules,  with  the  understanding  that 
he  should  pack  them  with  provisions  and 
other  necessaries,  and  meet  me  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Fontaine-qui-houit,  on  the  Arkansas 
river,  to  which  point  I  would  be  led  in  the 
course  of  the  survey. 

Agreeably  to  his  own  request,  and  in  the 
conviction  that  his  habits  of  life  and  educa- 
tion had  not  qualified  him  to  endure  the  hard 
life  of  a  voyageur,  I  discharged  here  one  of 
my  party,  Mr.  Oscar  Sarpy,  having  furnished 
him  with  arms  and  means  of  transportation 
to  Fort  Laramie,  where  he  would  be  in  the 
tine  of  caravans  returning  to  the  States. 

At  daybreak,  on  the  6th  of  July,  Maxwell 
was  on  his  way  to  Taos ;  and  a  few  hours 


after  we  also  had  recommenced  our  Journey 
up  the  Platte,  which  was  continuously  tim- 
bered with  cotton-wood  and  willow,  on  a 
generally  sandy  soil.  Passing  on  the  way 
thr,  remains  of  two  abandoned  forts,  (one  of 
which,  however,  was  still  in  good  condition,) 
we  reached,  in  10  miles.  Fort  Lancaster, 
the  trading  establishment  of  Mr.  Lupton. 
His  post  was  beginning  to  assume  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  comfortable  farm  :  stock,  hogs, 
and  cattle,  were  ranging  about  on  the  prai- 
rie ;  there  were  different  kinds  of  poulti'y  ; 
and  there  was  the  wreck  of  a  promising 
garden,  in  which  a  considerable  variety  of 
vegetables  had  been  in  a  flourishing  condi- 
tion, but  it  had  been  almost  entirely  ruined 
by  the  recent  high  waters.  I  remained  to 
spend  with  him  an  agreeable  hour,  and  set 
off  in  a  cold  storm  of  rain,  which  was  ac- 
companied with  violent  thunder  and  light 
ning.  We  encamped  immediately  on  the 
river,  16  miles  from  St.  Vrain's.  Several 
Arapahoes,  on  their  way  to  the  village 
which  was  encamped  a  few  miles  above  us, 
passed  by  the  camp  in  the  course  of  the 
afternoon.  Night  set  in  stormy  and  cold, 
with  heavy  and  continuous  rain,  which  lasted 
until  morning. 

July  7. — We  made  this  morning  an  early 
start,  continuing  to  travel  up  the  Platte ; 
and  in  a  few  miles  frequent  bands  of  horses 
and  mules,  scattered  for  several  miles  round 
about,  indicated  our  approach  to  the  Arapaho 
village,  which  we  found  encamped  in  a  beau- 
tiful bottom,  and  consisting  of  about  160 
lodges.  It  appeared  extremely  populous, 
with  a  great  number  of  children  ;  a  circum- 
stance which  indicated  a  regular  supply  of 
the  means  of  subsistence.  The  chiefs,  who 
were  gathered  together  at  the  farther  end  of 
the  village,  received  us  (as  probably  stran- 
gers are  always  received  to  whom  they  desire 
to  show  respect  or  regard)  by  throwing  their 
arms  around  our  necks  and  embracing  us. 

It  required  some  skill  in  horsemanship  to 
keep  the  saddle  during  the  performance  of 
this  ceremony,  as  our  American  horses  ex- 
hibited for  them  the  same  fear  they  have  for 
a  bear  or  -tny  other  wild  animal.  Having 
very  few  {(oods  with  me,  I  was  only  able 
to  make  them  a  meager  present,  accounting 
for  the  poverty  of  the  gift  by  explaining  that 
my  goods  had  been  left  with  the  wagons  in 
charge  of  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  who  was  well 
known  to  them  as  the  White  Head,  or  the 
Broken  Hand.  I  saw  here,  as  I  had  re- 
marked in  an  Arapaho  village  the  preceding 
year,  near  the  lodges  of  the  chiefs,  tall  tri> 
pods  of  white  poles  supporting  their  spears 
and  shields,  which  showed  it  to  be  a  regular 
custom. 

Though  disappointed  in  obtaining  the 
presents  which  had  been  evidently  expected, 
they  behaved  very  courteously,  and,  afiei 


:     : 


I 


J 


60 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[184S 


K  little  conversation,  I  left  them,  and,  con- 
tinuinfT  on  up  the  river,  halted  to  noon  on 
the  bluff,  as  the  bottoms  are  almost  inunda- 
ted ;  continuing  in  the  afternoon  our  route 
along  the  mountains,  which  were  dark, 
misty,  and  shrouded — threatening  a  storm  ; 
the  snow  peaks  sometimes  glittering  through 
the  clouds  beyond  the  first  ridge. 

We  surprised  a  grizzly  bear  sauntering 
along  the  river  ;  which,  raising  himself  upon 
his  hmd  legs,  took  a  deliberate  survey  of  us, 
that  did  not  appear  very  satisfactory  to  him, 
and  he  scrambled  into  the  river  and  swam 
to  the  opposite  side.  We  halted  for  the 
night  a  little  above  Cherry  creek  ;  the  even- 
ing cloudy,  with  many  mosquitoes.  Some 
indifferent  observations  placed  the  camp  in 
latitude  30°  43'  53",  and  chronometric  lon- 
gitude 106°  24'  34". 

July  8. — We  continued  to-day  to  travel 
up  the  Platte  ;  the  morning  pleasant,  with  a 
prospect  of  fairer  weather.  During  the  fore- 
noon our  way  lay  over  a  more  broken  coun- 
try, with  a  gravelly  and  sandy  surface  ;  al- 
though the  immediate  bottom  of'  the  river 
was  a  good  soil,  of  a  dark  sandy  mould,  rest- 
ing upon  a  stratum  of  large  pebbles,  or  rolled 
stones,  as  at  Laramie  fork.  On  our  right, 
and  apparently  very  near,  but  probably  8  or 
10  miles  distant,  and  two  or  three  thousand 
feet  above  us,  ran  the  first  range  of  the 
mountains,  like  a  dark  corniced  line,  in  clear 
contrast  with  the  great  snowy  chain  which, 
immediately  beyond,  rose  glittering  five 
thousand  feet  above  them.  We  caught  this 
morning  a  view  of  Pike's  peak  ;  but  it  ap- 
peared for  a  moment  only,  as  clouds  rose 
early  over  the  mountains,  and  shrouded  them 
in  mist  and  rain  all  the  day.  In  the  first 
range  were  visible,  as  at  the  Red  Buttes  on 
the  North  fork,  very  lofty  escarpments  of 
red  rock.  While  travelling  through  this 
region,  I  remarked  that  always  in  the  morn- 
ing the  lofty  peaks  were  visible  and  bright, 
but  very  soon  small  white  clouds  began  to 
settle  around  them — ^brewing  thicker  and 
darker  as  the  day  advanced,  until  the  after- 
noon, when  the  thunder  began  to  roll ;  and 
invariably  at  evening  we  had  more  or  less 
of  a  thunder  storm.  At  11  o'clock,  and  21 
miles  from  St.  Vrain's  fort,  we  reached  a 
point  in  this  southern  fork  of  the  Platte, 
where  the  stream  is  divided  into  three  forks ; 
two  of  these  (one  of  thera  being  much  the 
largest)  issuing  directly  from  the  mountains 
on  the  west,  and  forming,  with  the  eastern- 
most branch,  a  river  of  the  plains.  The 
elevation  of  this  point  is  about  5,500  feet 
above  the  sea ;  this  river  falling  2,800  feet 
in  a  distance  of  316  miles,  to  its  junction 
with  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  In  this 
estimate,  the  elevation  of  the  junction  is 
assumed  as  given  by  our  barometrical  ob- 
servations in  1843. 


On  the  easternmost  branch,  up  which  wb 
took  our  way,  we  first  came  among  the 
pines  growing  on  the  top  of  a  very  high 
bank,  and  where  we  halted  on  it  to  noon ; 
quaking  asp  (popttlus  tremuloides)  was 
mixed  with  the  cotton-wood,  and  there  wore 
excellent  grass  and  rushes  for  the  animals. 

During  the  morning  there  occurred  many 
beautiful  flowers,  which  we  had  not  hitherto 
met.  Among  them,  the  common  blue  flower- 
ing flax  made  its  first  appearance  ;  and  a  tall 
and  handsome  species  ot'  gilia,  with  slender 
scarlet  flowers,  which  appeared  yesterday 
for  the  first  time,  was  very  fre(|uent  to-day. 

We  had  found  very  little  game  since 
leaving  the  fort,  and  provisions  began  to  get 
unpleasantly  scant,  as  we  had  had  no  meat 
for  several  days ;  but  towards  sundown, 
when  we  had  already  made  up  our  minds  to 
sleep  another  night  without  supper,  La- 
jeunesse  had  the  good  fortune  to  kill  a  fine 
deer,  which  he  fountl  feeding  in  a  hollow 
near  by ;  and  as  the  rain  began  to  fall, 
threatening  an  unpleasant  night,  we  hurried 
to  secure  a  comfortable  can.p  in  the  timber. 

To-night  the  camp  fires,  girdled  with  af- 
polas  of  fine  venison,  looked  cheerful  m 
spite  of  the  stormy  weathei. 

July  9. — On  account  of  the  low  state  of 
our  provisions  and  the  scarcity  of  game,  I 
determined  to  vary  our  route,  and  proceed 
several  camps  to  the  eastward,  in  the  hope  ° 
of  falling  in  with  the  buffalo.  This  route 
along  the  dividing  grounds  between  the 
South  fork  of  the  Platte  and  the  Aikansas, 
would  also  afl!brd  some  additional  geograph- 
ical information.  This  morning,  therefore, 
we  turned  to  the  eastward,  along  the  upper 
waters  of  the  stream  on  which  wc  had  en- 
camped, entering  a  country  of  picturesque 
and  varied  scenery  ;  broken  into  rocky  hills 
of  singular  shapes ;  little  valleys,  with  pure 
crystal  water,  here  leaping  swiftly  along, 
and  there  losing  itself  in  the  sands ;  green 
spots  of  luxuriant  grass,  flowers  of  all  colors, 
and  timber  of  different  kinds — every  thing 
to  give  it  a  varied  beauty,  except  game.  To 
one  of  these  remarkably  shaped  hills,  hav- 
ing on  the  summit  a  circular  flat  rock  two 
or  three  hundred  yards  in  circumference, 
some  one  gave  the  name  of  Poundcake, 
which  it  has  been  permitted  to  retain,  as  our 
hungry  people  seemed  to  think  it  a  verj 
agreeable  comparison.  In  the  afternoon  a 
buffalo  bull  was  killed,  and  we  encamped  on 
a  small  stream,  near  the  road  which  runa 
from  St.  Vrain's  fort  to  the  Arkansas. 

July  10. — Snow  fell  heavily  on  the  moun* 
tains  during  the  night,  and  Pike's  peak  this 
morning  is  luminous  and  grand,  covered 
from  the  summit,  as  low  down  as  we  can 
see,  with  glittering  white.  Leaving  the 
encampment  at  6  o'clock,  we  continued  our 
easterly  course  over  a  rolling  country,  neu 


J 


[1841 

t  branch,  up  which  wb 
irst  came  among  the 
B  top  of  a  very  high 
halted  on  it  to  noon; 
hs  trcmuloides)  was 
i-wood,  and  there  wore 
ushes  for  the  animals. 
f  there  occurred  many 
ch  we  had  not  hitherto 
le  common  blue  flower- 
appearance  ;  and  a  tall 
i  of  gilia,  with  slender 
h  appeared  yesterday 
I  very  frequent  to-day. 
Rry  little  game  since 
)rovisions  began  to  get 
3  we  had  had  no  meat 
lut   towards   sundown, 

made  up  our  minds  to 

without  supper,  La- 
d  fortune  to  kill  a  fine 
il  feeding  in  a  hollow 
Q  rain  began  to  fall, 
sant  night,  we  hurried 
lie  can.p  in  the  timber. 

fires,  girdled  with  ap- 
n,  looked  cheerful  m 
eathei. 

int  of  the  low  state  of 
le  scarcity  of  game,  I 
IF  route,  and  proceed 

eastward,  in  the  hope  ° 
I  buffalo.  This  route 
grounds  between  the 
atte  and  the  Ai'kansas, 
e  additional  geograph- 
lis  morning,  therefore, 
Iward,  along  the  upper 

I  on  which  wc  had  cn- 
lountry  of  picturesque 
broken  into  rocky  hills 
ttle  valleys,  with  pure 
leaping  swiftly  along, 
If  in  the  sands ;  green 
is,  flowers  of  all  colors, 
nt  kinds — every  thing 
luty,  except  game.  To 
ably  shaped  hills,  hav> 
circular  flat  rock  two 
rds  in  circumference, 
name  of  Poundcake, 
mittcd  to  retain,  as  our 
id  to  think  it  a  verj 

In  the  aflcrnoon  a 
I,  and  we  encamped  on 
the  road  which  runa 
to  the  Arkansas. 

II  heavily  on  the  moun* 
,  and  Pike's  peak  this 

and  grand,  covered 
low  down  as  we  can 
white.  Leaving  the 
ock,  we  continued  our 
I  rolling  country,  neu 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NAURATIVE. 


61 


to  the  high  ridges,  which  are  generally 
rough  and  rocky,  with  a  coarse  conglomerate 
displayed  in  masses,  and  covered  with  pines. 
This  rock  is  very  friable,  and  it  is  undoubt- 
edly from  its  decomposition  that  the  prairies 
derive  their  sandy  and  gravelly  formation. 
In  6  miles  we  crossed  a  head  water  of  the 
Kioway  river,  on  which  we  found  a  strong 
fort  and  coral  that  had  been  built  in  the 
spring,  and  halted  to  noon  on  the  principal 
branch  of  the  river.  During  the  morning 
our  route  led  over  a  dark  vegetable  mould, 
mix^d  with  sand  and  gravel,  the  character- 
istic plant  being  esparcelte,  {pnohryckis  sali- 
va,) a  species  of  clover  which  is  much  used 
in  certain  parts  of  Germany  for  pasturage 
of  stock — principally  hogs.  It  is  sown  on 
rocky  waste  ground,  which  would  otherwise 
be  useless,  and  grows  very  luxuriantly,  re- 
quiring only  a  renewal  of  the  seed  about 
once  in  flft<'!en  years.  Its  abundance  here 
greatly  adds  to  the  pastoral  value  of  this  re- 
gion. A  species  of  antennaria  in  flower 
was  very  common  along  the  line  of  road, 
and  the  creeks  were  timbered  with  willow 
tnd  pine.  We  encamped  on  Bijou's  fork, 
ihe  water  of  which,  unlike  the  clear  streams 
we  had  previously  crossed,  is  of  a  whitish 
color,  and  the  soil  of  the  bottom  a  very 
itard,  tough  clay.  There  was  a  prairie  dog 
rillage  on  the  bottom,  and,  in  the  endeavor 
.0  unearth  one  of  the  little  animals,  we  la- 
ooied  inefToctually  in  the  tough  clay  until 
daik.  After  descending,  with  a  slight  in- 
clination, until  it  had  gone  the  depth  of  two 
feet,  the  hole  suddenly  turned  at  a  sharp 
angle  in  another  direction  for  one  more  foot 
in  depth,  when  it  again  turned,  taking  an 
ascending  direction  to  the  next  nearest  hole. 
I  have  no  doubt  that  all  their  little  habita- 
tions communicate  with  each  other.  The 
greater  part  of  the  people  were  sick  to-day, 
and  I  was  inclined  to  attribute  their  indis- 
position to  the  meat  of  the  bull  which  had 
been  killed  the  previous  day. 

July  1 1 . — There  were  no  indications  of 
buffalo  having  been  recently  in  the  neigh- 
borhood ;  and,  unwilling  to  travel  farther 
eastward,  I  turned  this  morning  to  the 
southward,  up  the  valley  of  Bijou.  Espar- 
celte occurred  universally,  and  among  the 
plants  on  the  river  I  noticed,  for  the  first 
time  duriii,  this  journey,  a  few  small  bushes 
of  the  absinlhe  of  the  voyageurs,  which  is 
commonly  used  for  fire-wood,  {artemisia 
tridentata.)  Yesterday  and  to-day  the  road 
has  been  ornamented  with  the  showry  bloom 
of  a  beautiful  lupinus,  a  characteristic  in 
many  parts  of  the  mountain  region,  on 
which  were  generally  great  numbers  of  an 
insect  with  very  bright  colors,  (litta  vesica- 
toria.) 

As  we  were  riding  quietly  along,  eagerly 
•earching  «very  hollow  in  search  of  game 


we  discovered,  at  a  little  distance  in  th* 
prairie,  a  largo  grizzly  bear,  so  busily  en- 
gaged in  digging  roots  that  he  did  not  per- 
ceive us  until  we  were  galloping  down  a 
little  hill  fifty  yards  from  hiui,  when  he 
charged  upon  us  with  supli  sudden  energy, 
that  several  of  us  came  near  Umng  our  sad- 
dles. Being  wounded,  he  commenced  re- 
treating to  a  rocky  piny  ridge  near  by, 
from  which  we  were  not  able  to  cut  him  olT, 
and  we  entered  the  timber  with  him.  The 
way  was  very  much  blocked  up  with  fallen 
timber  ;  and  we  kept  up  a  running  fight  for 
some  time,  animated  by  the  bear  charging 
among  the  horses.  lie  did  nut  fall  until 
after  he  had  received  six  rifle  balls.  He 
was  miserably  poor,  and  added  nothing  to 
our  stock  of  provisions. 

We  followed  the  stream  to  its  head  in  a 
broken  ridge,  which,  according  to  the  ba- 
rometer, was  about  7,500  feet  above  the 
sea.  This  is  a  piny  elevation,  into  which 
the  prairies  are  gathered,  and  from  which 
the  waters  flow,  in  almost  every  direction, 
to  the  Arkansas,  Platte,  and  Kansas  rivers  ; 
the  latter  stream  having  here  its  remotest 
sources.  Although  somewhat  rocky  and 
broken,  and  covered  with  pines,  in  compari- 
son with  the  neighboring  mountains,  it 
scarcely  forms  an  interruption  to  the  great 
prairie  plains  which  sweep  up  to  their  bases. 

We  had  an  excellent  view  of  Pike's  peak 
from  this  camp,  at  the  distance  of  40  miles. 
This  iiiuuntain  barrier  presents  itself  t9 
travellers  on  the  plains,  which  sweep  almost 
directly  to  its  bases — an  immense  and  com- 
paratively smooth  and  grassy  prairie,  in 
very  strong  contrast  with  the  black  masses 
of  timber,  and  the  glittering  snow  abovo 
them.  With  occasional  exceptions,  com- 
paratively so  very  small  as  not  to  require 
mention,  these  prairies  are  everywhere  cov- 
ered with  a  close  and  vigorous  growth  of  a 
great  variety  of  grasses,  among  which  the 
most  abundant  is  the  buffalo  grass,  {sesleria 
dactyloides.)  Between  the  Platte  and  Ar- 
kansas rivers,  that  part  of  this  region  which 
forms  the  basin  drained  by  the  waters  of  the 
Kansas,  with  which  our  operations  made  us 
more  particularly  acquainted,  is  based  upon 
a  formation  of  calcareous  rocks.  The  soU 
of  all  this  country  is  excellent,  admirably 
adapted  to  agricultural  purposes,  and  would 
support  a  large  agricultural  and  pastoral 
population.  A  glance  at  the  map,  along  our 
several  lines  of  travel,  will  show  you  that 
this  plain  ia  watered  by  many  streams. 
Throughout  the  western  half  of  the  plain, 
these  are  shallow,  witbi  sandy  beds,  be- 
coming deeper  as  they  reach  the  richer 
lands  approaching  the  Missouri  river ;  they 
generally  have  bottom  lands,  bordered  by 
bluffs  varying  from  50  to  500  feet  in  height. 
In  all  this  region  the  timber  is  entirely  c&u- 


'.  .  i   1 


CAPT.  rUE.MONT'.S  NAURATIVE. 


[1843. 


fined  to  the  streams.  In  tlio  eastern  half, 
where  tlio  soil  ia  a  deep,  rich,  vegctahle 
mouUI,  retentive  of  rain  and  moisture,  it  is 
of  vigorous  ((rowth,  and  of  many  different 
kinds  ;  and  throughout  the  western  half  it 
consists  cnliroiy  of  various  species  of  cot- 
ton-wood, which  deserves  to  ho  called  the 
tree  of  the  desert — growing  in  sandy  soils, 
where  no  other  tree  will  grow ;  pointing  out 
the  existence  of  water,  and  furnishing  to  the 
traveller  fuel,  and  food  fur  his  animals.  Add 
to  this,  that  the  western  border  of  the  plain 
is  occupied  by  the  Sioux,  Arapaho,  and 
Cheyenne  nations,  and  the  Pawnees  and 
other  half-civilized  tribes  in  its  eastern 
limits,  for  whom  the  intermediate  country 
is  a  war-ground,  you  will  have  a  tolerably 
correct  idea  of  the  appearance  and  condition 
of  the  country.  Descending  a  somewhat 
precipitous  and  rocky  hillside  among  the 
pines,  which  rarely  appear  elsewhere  than 
on  the  ridge,  we  encamped  at  its  foot,  where 
there  were  several  springs,  which  you  will 
find  laid  down  upon  the  map  as  one  of  the 
extreme  sources  of  the  Smoky  Hill  fork  of 
the  Kansas.  From  this  place  the  view  ex- 
tended over  the  Arkansas  valley,  and  the 
Spanish  peaks  in  the  south  beyond.  As  the 
greater  ]>art  of  the  men  continued  sick,  I 
encamped  here  for  the  day,  and  ascertained 
conclusively,  from  experiments  on  myself, 
that  their  illness  was  caused  by  the  meat 
of  the  buffalo  bull. 

On  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  near  the 
camp,  were  several  rock-built  forts,  whiuh 
in  front  were  very  difTuult  of  approach,  and 
in  the  rear  were  protected  by  a  precipice 
entirely  beyond  the  reach  of  a  rifle  ball. 
The  evening  was  tolerably  clear,  with  a 
temperature  at  sunset  of  63°.  Elevation 
of  the  camp  7,300  feet. 

Turning  the  next  day  to  the  southwest, 
we  reached,  in  the  course  of  the  morning, 
the  wagon  road  to  the  settlements  on  the 
Arkansas  river,  and  encamped  in  the  after- 
noon on  the  Fontaine-qui-bouit  (or  Boiling 
Spring)  river,  where  it  was  50  feet  wide, 
with  a  swift  current,  I  afterwards  found 
that  the  spring  end  river  owe  their  names 
to  the  bubbling  of  the  efl^ervescing  gas  in 
the  former,  and  not  to  the  temperature  of 
the  water,  which  is  cold.  During  the  morn- 
ing a  tall  species  of  gilia,  with  a  slender 
white  flower,  was  characteristic ;  and,  in 
the  latter  part  of  the  day,  another  variety 
of  esparcelle,  (wild  clover,)  having  the 
flower  while,  was  equally  so.  We  had  a 
line  sunset  of  golden  brown ;  and,  in  the 
vening,  a  very  bright  moon,  with  the  near 

ountains,  made  a  beautiful  scene.     Thcr- 

ometer,  at  sunset,  was  69^,  and  our  eleva- 
tion above  the  sea  5,600  feet. 

July  13. — The  morning  was  clear,  with 
a  northwesterly  breeze,  and  the  thermome- 


ter at  sunrise  at  40°.  There  were  no  cloudi 
along  the  mountains,  and  the  morning  sun 
showed  very  clearly  their  rugged  charac- 
ter. 

We  resumed  our  journey  very  early  down 
the  river,  following  an  extremely  good  lodge 
trail,  which  issues  by  the  head  of  this  stream 
from  the  bayou  Salade,  a  high  mountain 
valley  behind  Pike's  peak.  The  soil  along 
the  road  was  sandy  and  gravelly,  and  the 
river  well  timbered.  We  halted  to  noon 
under  the  shade  of  some  fine  largo  cotton- 
woods,  our  animals  luxuriating  on  rushes, 
{equiselum  hycmah,)  which,  along  this  riv- 
er, were  remarkably  abundant.  A  variety 
of  cafctus  made  its  appearance,  and  among 
several  strange  planta  were  numerous  and 
beautiful  clusters  of  a  plant  reueinhliiig  mi- 
rabilis  jalapa,  with  a  handsome  convulvulua 
I  had  not  hitherto  seen,  {calystegia.)  In 
the  afternoon  wo  passed  near  the  encamp- 
ment of  a  hunter  named  Maurice,  who  hud 
been  out  into  the  plains  in  pursuit  of  buflalc 
calves,  a  number  of  which  I  saw  among 
some  domestic  cattle  near  his  lodge.  Short- 
ly afterwards,  a  party  of  mountaineers  gal- 
loped up  to  us — line-looking  and  hardy  men, 
dressed  in  skins  and  mounted  on  good  fai 
horses ;  among  them  were  several  Ooniu-c- 
ticut  men,  a  portion  of  Wyeth's  party,  whoin 
I  had  seen  the  year  before,  and  others  were 
men  from  the  western  states. 

Cuntitming  down  the  river,  we  encamped 
at  noon  on  the  14th  at  its  mouth,  on  the 
Arkansas  river.  A  short  distance  above 
our  encampment,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Arkansas,  is  a  pueblo,  (as  the  Mexicans  call 
their  civilized  Indian  villages,)  where  a 
number  of  mountaineers,  who  had  married 
Spanish  women  in  the  valley  of  Taos,  had 
collected  together,  and  occupied  themselves 
in  farming,  carrying  on  at  the  same  time  a 
desultory  Indian  trade.  They  were  princi- 
pally Americans,  and  treated  us  with  all  the 
rude  hospitality  their  situation  adjniticd  ; 
but  as  all  commercial  intercourse  with  New 
Mexico  was  now  interrupted,  in  consequence 
of  Mexican  decrees  to  that  eflect,  there  was 
nothing  to  be  had  in  the  way  of  provisions. 
They  had,  however,  a  flne  stock  of  cattle, 
and  furnished  us  an  abundance  of  excellent 
milk.  I  learned  here  that  Maxwell,  io 
company  with  two  other  men,  had  started 
for  Taos  on  the  morning  of  the  0th,  but 
that  he  would  probably  fall  into  the  hand* 
of  the  Utah  Indians,  commonly  called  the 
Spanish  Yules.  As  Maxwell  had  no  knowl- 
edge of  their  being  in  the  vicinity  when  he 
crossed  the  Arkansas,  his  chance  of  escape 
was  very  doubtful ;  but  I  did  not  entertiiin 
much  apprehension  for  his  life,  having  great 
confidence  in  his  prudence  and  courage.  ' 
was  further  informed  that  there  had  been  a 
popular  tumult  among  the  pueblos,  or  civil- 


■■^. 


[1843. 

There  wcro  no  cloudi 

,  and  tlio  niornin^  sun 

tlii'ir  rugged  cliarac- 

ourney  very  cnrly  down 
n  cxtrenicly  ((ood  lod|^e 

the  head  of  this  streurn 
Iu<lu,  a  hi(!h  ninuntain 

peak.     Thn  Hoil  along 

and  gravelly,  and  the 

\Ve   hulled  to  noon 

some  fine  largo  eolton- 

luxtiriating  on  rushes, 
)  which,  along  thm  riv- 

;ihiindant.  A  variety 
appearance,  and  among 
Us  were  niiinerons  and 
a  plant  resembling  mi- 
i  handsome  eonvolvulna 
seen,  {calyslcgia.)  Jii 
8sed  near  the  encamp- 
imed  Maurice,  who  had 
kins  in  pursuit  of  bufl'alc 
if  which  I  saw  among 
3  near  his  lodge.  Short- 
ty  of  mountaineers  gal- 

ooking  and  hardy  men, 
id  mounted  on  good  fal 
n  were  several  Connoc- 
of  Wyeth's  party,  wluun 
before,  and  others  were 
Tn  states. 

the  river,  we  encamped 
th  at  its  mouth,  on  the 
i  short  distance  above 
)n  the  left  bank  of  the 
lo,  (as  the  Mexicans  call 
lian  villages,)  where  a 
neers,  who  had  married 
the  valley  of  Taos,  had 
md  occupied  themselves 
T  on  at  the  same  time  a 
ide.  They  were  priiici- 
d  treated  us  with  all  the 
eir  situation  adjnitted  ; 
ial  intercourse  with  New 
.errupted,  in  consequence 
I  to  that  effect,  there  was 
a  the  way  of  provisions. 
-,  a  line  stock  of  cattle, 
I  abundance  of  excellent 
here  thai  Maxwell,  io 
other  men,  had  started 
norning  of  the  0th,  but 
)abty  fall  into  the  hand* 
IS,  commonly  called  tk» 
8  Maxwell  had  no  knowl- 
[  in  the  vicinity  when  he 
las,  his  chance  of  escape 
but  i  did  not  entertain 
for  his  life,  having  great 
rudence  and  courage.  ' 
ed  that  there  had  been  a 
ing  the  pueblos,  or  civil* 


1843.  J 


CAPT.  F|{I:M(iM"S   NAKUATlVr,. 


03 


ized  Indians,  residing  near  Taos,  !ic.Miiivt 
the  '*  foreifftirrs"  of  that  place,  in  which 
Ihny  had  |)limderpd  their  houses  and  ill- 
treated  their  families.  Among  tho.so  whoso 
property  had  been  destroyed,  was  Mr.  llciin- 
iiien,  fatlicr-in-law  of  Maxwell,  from  whom 
I  had  expected  to  obtain  supiilics,  and  who 
nad  been  obliged  to  make  his  escape  to 
Santa  Fe. 

Hy  this  position  of  affairs,  our  expeota- 
;ion  of  obtaining  supplies  from  Taos  was 
cut  off.  I  hnd  here  the  satisfaction  to  meet 
our  good  linfTalo  huntei  of  181'2,  Christo- 
pher Carson,  whoso  services  I  considered 
myself  fortunate  to  secure  again  ;  and  as  a 
reinforcement  of  mules  was  absolutely  ne- 
cessary, I  dispatched  him  immediately,  with 
an  account  of  our  necessities,  to  Mr.  Charles 
Hen,t,  whose  principal  post  is  on  tlin  Arkan- 
sas river,  a!)out  75  miles  below  Fontaine- 
ijui-bouit.  He  was  directed  to  proceed 
from  that  post  by  the  nearest  route  across 
the  country,  and  meet  me  with  what  ani- 
mals he  should  be  able  to  obtain  at  St. 
Vrain's  fort.  I  also  admitted  into  the  party 
Charles  Towns,  a  native  of  St.  Louis,  a 
serviceable  man,  with  many  of  the  qualities 
of  a  good  voyageur.  According  to  our  ob- 
servations, flie  latitude  of  the  mouth  of  the 
river  if  38°  15'  S3" ;  its  longitude  101°  58' 
30"  ;  i;nd  its  elevation  above  the  sea  4,880 
feet. 

On  rhe  morning  of  the  10th,  the  time  for 
Maxwell's  arrival  having  expired,  we  re- 
sumed our  journey,  leaving  for  him  a  note, 
in  which  it  was  stated  that  I  would  wait  for 
him  at  St.  Vrain's  fort  until  the  morning  of 
the  26th,  in  the  event  that  he  should  suc- 
ceed in  his  commission.  Our  direction  was 
up  the  Boiling  Spring  river,  it  being  my  in- 
tention to  visit  the  celebrated  springs  from 
which  the  river  takes  its  name,  and  which 
are  on  its  upper  waters,  at  the  foot  of  Pike's 
peak.  Our  animals  fared  well  while  we 
were  on  this  stream,  there  being  every- 
where a  great  abundance  of  prele.  Ipomea 
leplophylla,  in  bloom,  was  a  characteristic 
plant  along  the  river,  generally  in  large 
bunches,  with  two  to  five  flowers  on  each. 
Beautiful  clusters  of  the  plant  resembling 
mirabilis  jalapa  were  numerous,  and  gly- 
cyrrhtza  lepidola  was  a  characteristic  of 
the  bottoms.  Currants  nearly  ripe  were 
abundant,  and  among  the  shrubs  which  cov- 
ered the  bottom  was  a  very  luxuriant  growth 
of  chenopodiaceous  shrubs,  four  to  six  feet 
high. 

On  the  aAernoon  of  the  17th  we  entered 
among  the  broken  ridges  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  where  the  river  made  several 
forks.  Leaving  the  camp  to  follow  slowly, 
I  rode  ahead  in  the  afternoon  in  search  of 
the  springs.  In  the  mean  time,  the  clouds, 
which  had  been  gathered  all  the  aflemoon 


over  ibn  inonn'ains,  began  to  roll  (lowiHtlieii 
siiles  ;  ,111(1  ii  Sturm  so  violent  hurst  upon 
me,  that  it  uppeared  I  had  entered  thn  store- 
house of  the  thunii(M-  storms.  1  contiinied, 
hiiwever,  to  ride  along  up  the  river  until 
iilmut  sunset,  and  was  beginning  lo  bo  doubt 
ful  of  finding  the  springs  before  the  next 
d;iy,  when  I  came  suddenly  upon  a  large 
smooth  rock  about  twenty  yards  in  diatne- 
ter,  where  the  water  from  several  springs 
was  bubbling  and  boiling  up  in  the  midst  of 
a  white  incrustatinn  with^whipji  it  had  cov- 
ered a  portion  of  the  rock.  As  this  did  not 
correspond  with  a  description  given  me  by 
the  hunters,  I  did  not  stop  to  taste  the  wa- 
ter, but,  dismounting,  walked  a  little  way  up 
the  river,  and,  passing  through  a  narrow 
thicket  of  shrubbery  bordering  the  stream, 
stepped  directly  upon  a  huge  white  rock,  at 
the  foot  of  which  the  river,  already  become 
a  torrent,  foamed  along,  broken  by  a  small 
fall.  A  deer  which  had  been  drinking  at 
the  spring  was  startled  by  my  approach, 
and,  springing  across  the  river,  bounded  ofl' 
up  the  mountain.  In  the  upper  part  of  the 
rock,  which  had  apparently  been  formed  by 
deposition,  was  a  beautiful  white  basin,  over- 
hung by  currant  bushes,  in  which  the  cold 
clear  water  bubbled  up,  kept  in  constant 
motion  by  the  escaping  gas,  and  overflow- 
ing the  rock,  which  it  had  almost  entirely 
covered  with  a  smooth  crust  of  glistening 
white.  I  had  all  day  refrained  from  drink- 
ing, reserving  myself  for  the  spring ;  and 
as  I  could  not  well  be  more  wet  thsn  the 
rain  had  already  made  me,  I  lay  down  by 
the  side  of  the  basin,  and  drank  heartily  of 
the  delightful  water.  The  spring  is  situ- 
ated immediately  at  the  foot  of  lofty  moun- 
tains, beautifully  timbered,  which  sweep 
closely  round,  shutting  up  the  little  valley 
in  a  kind  of  cove.  As  it  was  beginning  to 
grow  dark,  I  rode  quickly  down  the  river, 
on  which  I  found  the  ca'.r^  a  few  miles 
below. 

The  morning  of  the  l&iu  vas  beautiful 
and  clear,  and,  all  the  people  i>eing  anxious 
to  drink  of  these  famous  waters,  we  en- 
camped immediately  at  the  springs,  and 
spent  there  a  very  pleasant  day.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river  is  another  locality 
of  springs,  which  are  entirely  of  the  same 
nature.  The  water  has  a  very  agreeable 
taste,  which  Mr.  Preuss  found  very  much 
to  resemble  that  of  the  famous  Selter  springs 
in  the  grand  duchy  of  Nassau,  a  country  fa- 
mous for  wine  and  mineral  waters ;  and  it 
is  almost  entirely  of  the  same  character, 
though  still  more  agreeable  than  that  of  the 
famous  Bear  springs,  near  Bear  river  of  the 
Great  Salt  lake.  The  following  is  an  an- 
alysis of  an  incrustation  with  which  the  wa- 
ter had  covered  a  piece  of  wood  lying  oa 
the  rock : 


■  ■  i 


4    '  .,^    - 


64 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


(1841 


'    Carbonate  of  limo 
_*  Carlioiiato  n(  mngneaia 
Sulphnto  of  lima 
Chloride  of  calcium 
Cliloridc  of  magnesia 
Siliea  .... 

V»'Ketul)lo  matter 
Moisture  and  loss 


•  •  • 


03.35 
1.81 

.93 


1.60 

.80 

4.61 


100.00 

At  1 1  o'clock,  when  the  temperature  o(  the 
air  was  73  3,  that  of  the  water  in  this  was 
tiO.&'^;  and  that  of  the  upper  spring,  which 
issued  from  the  flat  rock,  mere  exposed 
to  the  Run,  was  OIP.  At  sunset,  when  the 
temperature  of  the  air  was  00'^,  that  of 
the  lower  springs  was  680,  and  that  of  the 
upper  61°. 

July  19. — A  beautiful  and  clear  morning, 
with  a  slight  breeze  from  the  northwest ;  the 
temperature  of  the  air  at  sunrise  being  67. 5'^. 
At  this  limn  the  temperature  of  the  lower 
spring  was  57.8°,  and  that  of  the  upper  64.3°. 

The  trees  in  the  neighborhood  wore  birch, 
willow,  pine,  and  an  oak  resembling  quer- 
cus  alba.  In  the  shrubbery  along  the  river 
are  currant  buohos,  (ribea,)  of  which  the 
fruit  has  a  singular  piny  flavor  ;  and  on  the 
mountain  side,  in  a  red  gravelly  soil,  is  a 
remarkable  coniferous  tree,  (perhaps  an 
abies,)  having  the  loaves  singularly  long, 
broad,  and  scattered,  with  bushes  of  spiriea 
ariafolia.  I)y  our  observations,  this  place 
is  6,350  feet  above  the  sea,  in  latitude  38° 
62'  10",  and  longitude  106°  22'  45" 

Resuming  our  journey  on  this  morning, 
we  descended  the  river,  in  order  to  reach 
the  mouth  of  the  eastern  fork,  which  I  pro- 
posed to  ascend.  The  left  bank  of  the  river 
here  is  very  much  broken.  There  is  a  hand- 
some little  bottom  on  the  right,  and  both 
banks  are  exceedingly  picturesque — strata 
of  red  rock,  in  nearly  perpendicular  walls, 
crossing  the  valley  from  north  to  south. 
About  three  miles  below  the  springs,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  is  a  nearly  perpen- 
dicular limestor.e  rock,  presenting  a  uni- 
formly unbroken  surface,  twenty  to  forty 
feet  high,  containing  very  great  numbers  of 
a  large  univalve  shell,  which  appears  to  be- 
long to  tho  genus  inoceramus. 

la  contact  with  this,  to  the  westward, 
was  another  stratum  of  limestone,  contain- 
ing fossil  shells  of  a  different  character; 
and  still  higher  up  on  the  stream  were  par- 
allel strata,  consisting  of  a  compact  some- 
what crystalline  limestone,  and  argillaceous 
bituminous  limestone  in  thin  layers.  Dur- 
ing the  morning,  we  travelled  up  the  east- 
ern fork  of  the  Fontaine-qui-bouit  river,  our 
road  being  roughened  by  frequent  deep  gul- 
lies timbered  with  pine,  and  halted  to  noon 
on  a  small  branch  of  this  stream,  timbered 
principally  with  the  nariow-leaved  cotton- 


wood,  ( populti.i  miirii.'iti/olin,)  callod  by  thl 
Canadians  lianl  iiinirf.  On  a  hill,  near  by 
wure  two  rcmurkalilo  colinnns  of  a  grayish- 
white  cunglouMtratts  mck,  one  of  which  was 
about  twenty  fuct  high,  and  iwti  fret  in  di- 
ameter. They  are  viirnioiinted  by  slabs  of 
a  dark  ferruginous  cong|oinerat(>,  forming 
black  caps,  an<l  adding  very  much  to  their 
columnar  effect  at  a  distance.  This  rock 
is  very  destructible  by  the  action  of  the 
weather,  and  tho  hill,  of  which  they  for- 
merly constituted  apart,  i>  '-ntirely  abraded. 

A  shall  of  tho  gun  carriage  was  bioken 
in  the  aAcrnoori ;  and  we  made  un  early 
halt,  tho  stream  being  trom  twelve  to  twen- 
ty feet  wide,  with  clear  water.  As  usual, 
the  clouds  had  gathered  to  a  storm  over 
tho  mountains,  and  we  had  a  showery  even- 
ing. At  sunset  the  thermoinotcr  stood  at 
62<3,  and  our  elevation  above  tho  sea  was 
6,530  feet. 

July  20. — This  morning  (as  we  generally 
found  the  mornings  under  these  mountains^ 
was  very  clear  and  beautiful,  and  the  ail 
cool  and  pleasant,  with  the  thermometer  at 
44°.  We  continued  our  march  up  the 
stream,  along  a  green  sloping  bottom,  be- 
tween pine  hills  on  the  one  hand,  and  the 
main  lilack  hills  on  the  other,  towards  the 
ridge  which  separates  the  waters  of  the 
Platte  from  those  of  tho  Arkansas.  As  w« 
approached  the  dividing  ridge,  the  whole 
valley  was  radiant  with  flowers  ;  blue,  yel- 
low, pink,  white,  scarlet,  and  purple,  vied 
with  each  other  in  splendor.  Esparcette 
was  one  of  the  highly  characteristic  plants, 
and  a  bright-looking  flower  (gaillardia 
aristaia)  was  very  frequent ;  but  the  moat 
abundant  plant  along  our  road  to-day,  was 
geranium  maculatum,  which  is  the  charac- 
teristic plant  on  this  portion  of  the  dividing 
grounds.  Crossing  to  the  waters  of  the 
Platte,  fields  of  blue  flax  added  to  the  mag- 
nificence of  this  mountain  garden ;  this  was 
occasionally  four  feet  in  height,  which  was 
a  luxuriance  of  growth  that  I  rarely  saw 
this  almost  universal  plant  attain  throughout 
the  journey.  Continuing  down  a  branch  of 
the  rlatto,  among  high  and  very  steep  tim- 
bered hills,  covered  with  fragments  of  rock, 
towards  evening  we  issued  from  the  piny 
region,  and  made  a  late  encampment  near 
Poundcake  rock,  on  that  fork  of  the  river 
which  we  had  ascended  on  the  8th  of  July 
Our  animals  enjoyed  the  abundant  riisheii 
this  evening,  ae  the  flies  were  so  bad  amonc 
the  pines  that  they  had  been  much  harassnd. 
A  deer  was  killed  hero  this  evenin<r ;  atul 
again  the  evening  was  overcast,  and  a  col- 
lection of  brilliant  red  clonics  in  thn  wnM 
was  followed  by  the  customary  squall  of  rain 

Achillea  millefolium  (milfoil)  was  amonn 
the  characteristic  plants  of  the  river  bot- 
toms to-day.    This  was  one  of  the  moil 


v.. 


[1841 


iiriintifolifi,)  caltnl  by  th( 
iiin\  On  a  lull,  near  by 
lilo  i-oiumns  of  n  itniyiafi- 
It)  rook,  Olio  of  which  wn» 

hijfh,  atui  two  fpct  in  tli- 
o  i<iirn)oiinte(l  by  slaba  of 
18  oon)r|omerat«,  forming; 
(Uling  very  much  to  their 
It  a  (listanuo.  This  rock 
)le  by  the   action   of  the 

hill,  of  which  thoy  for- 
u  part,  i^  "ntirely  abraded, 
gun  carriage  waa  bioken 
;  and  we  made  an  early 
3in(?  I  rem  twolvo  to  twen- 

clear  water.  As  uBunl, 
iithered  to  a  Btorm  over 
i  we  had  a  showery  evon- 
the  therinomotcr  stood  at 
vation  above  the  sea  was 

morning  (as  wo  generally 
^s  under  these  mountains! 
iiid  beautiful,  and  the  ait 
t,  with  the  thermometer  at 
nucd  our  march  up  the 
green  sloping  bottom,  be- 
on  tho  one  hand,  and  the 

on  the  other,  towards  the 
irates  the  waters  of  the 

of  tho  Arkansas.  As  we 
Jiviiling  ridge,  the  whole 
It  with  flowers  ;  blue,  yel- 
,  scarlet,  and  purple,  vied 

in  splendor.  Esparcette 
ighly  characteristic  plants, 
oking  flower  (gaillardia 
y  frequent ;  but  the  most 
iloBg  our  road  to-day,  was 
ilum,  which  is  the  charac- 
ihis  portion  of  the  dividing 
ing  to  the  waters  of  the 
>lue  flax  added  to  the  mag- 
mountain  garden ;  this  was 

feet  in  height,  which  was 
growth  that  I  rarely  saw 
Tsal  plant  attain  throughout 
ontinuing  down  a  branch  of 
g  high  and  very  steep  tim- 
red  with  fragments  of  rock, 

we  issued  from  the  piny 
0  a  late  encampment  near 

on  that  fork  of  the  rivet 
icended  on  the  8th  of  July 
oyed  the  abundant  nishok 
the  flies  were  so  bad  among 
ey  had  been  much  harassnd. 
ed  hero  this  evenin<r;  aiul 
g  was  overcast,  and  a  cm- 
int  red  clouils  in  the  wnrt 
ihc  customary  squall  of  rain 
folium  (milfoil)  was  anionu 
ic  plants  of  the  river  bot- 
rhis  was  one  of  the  mort 


r 


1641.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


common  plants  during  the  whole  of  our 
journey,  occurring  in  almost  every  variety 
of  situation.  I  noticed  it  on  the  lowlands 
of  the  rivers,  nnnr  tho  coast  of  the  Pacific, 
and  near  tu  th«  anov-  among  the  mountains 
of  the  Sitrra  Nevada. 

During  thin  excursion,  we  had  surveyed 
to  its  head  one  of  the  two  principal  branches 
of  the  upper  Arkansas,  75  miles  in  length, 
and  entirely  completed  our  survey  of  the 
South  fork  of  tiie  Platte,  to  the  extreme 
sources  of  that  portion  of  the  river  which 
belongs  to  the  plains,  and  heads  in  the  bro- 
ken hills  of  the  Arkansas  dividing  ridge,  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountains.  That  portion  of 
its  waters  which  were  collected  among  these 
mountains,  it  was  hoped  to  explore  on  our 
homeward  voyage. 

Reaching  >St.  Vrain's  fort  on  the  morning 
of  the  23d,  we  found  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and 
his  party  in  good  order  and  excellent  health, 
and  my  true  and  reliable  friend.  Kit  Carson, 
who  had  brought  with  him  ten  good  mules, 
with  the  necessary  pack-saddles.  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick,  who  had  oilen  endured  every 
extremity  of  want  during  the  course  of  his 
mountain  life,  and  knew  well  the  value  of 
provisions  in  this  country,  had  watched  over 
our  stock  with  jealous  vigilance,  and  there 
was  an  abundance  of  flour,  rice,  sugar,  and 
•soSee,  in  the  camp;  and  again  we  fared 
luxuriously.  Meat  was,  however,  very 
loarce  ;  and  two  very  small  pigs,  which  we 
obtained  at  the  fort,  did  not  go  far  among 
forty  men.  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  had  been  here 
a  week,  during  which  time  his  men  had 
been  occupied  in  refitting  the  camp ;  and 
the  repose  had  been  very  beneficial  to  his 
animals,  which  were  now  in  tolerably  good 
condition. 

I  had  been  able  to  obtain  no  certain  in- 
formation in  regard  to  the  character  of  the 
passes  in  this  portion  of  the  Rocky  moun- 
tain range,  which  had  always  been  repre- 
sented as  impristicablo  for  carriages,  but 
the  exploration  oi  which  was  incidentally 
contemplated  by  my  instructions,  with  tho 
view  ot  finding  some  convenient  point  of 
passage  for  the  road  of  emigration,  which 
would  enable  it  to  reach,  on  a  more  direct 
line,  the  usual  ford  of  the  Great  Colorado — 
a  place  considered  as  determined  by  the  na- 
ture of  the  country  beyond  that  river.  It  is 
singular,  that  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  I  could  find  no  one  sufiSciently 
acquainted  with  them  to  guide  us  to  the 
plains  at  their  western  base ;  but  the  race 
of  trappers,  who  formerly  lived  in  their  re- 
ceases,  has  almost  entirely  disappeared — 
dwindled  to  a  few  scattered  individuals — 
(ome  one  or  two  of  whom  are  regularly 
kiDed  in  the  course  of  each  year  by  the  In- 
dians. You  will  remember,  that  in  the  pre- 
vioua  year  I  brought  with  me  to  their  village 


near  this  post,  and  hospitably  treated  on  th« 
way,  several  (/'heyonne  Indium,  whom  I  had 
met  on  the  hower  Plutto.  Khorlly  uf^er 
their  arrival  hero,  tliRso  woie  out  with  a 
party  of  Indians,  (themselves  tho  principal 
men,)  which  discovered  a  few  trappers  in 
the  neighboring  mountains,  whom  they  im- 
mediately murdered,  although  one  of  them 
had  been  nearly  thirty  years  in  the  country, 
and  was  perfectly  well  known,  as  ho  had 
grown  gray  among  timm. 

Through  this  portion  of  the  mnnntaina, 
also,  aro  the  customary  roads  of  tho  war 
parties  going  out  against  the  Utah  and 
Shoshonee  Indiana ;  and  occasionally  par- 
ties from  the  Crow  nation  make  their  way 
down  to  the  southward  along  this  chain,  in  the 
expectation  of  surprising  some  straggling 
lodges  of  their  enemies.  Shortly  before  oui 
arrival,  one  of  their  parties  had  attacked  an 
Arapaho  village  in  the  vicinity,  which  they 
had  found  unexpectedly  strong  ;  and  their 
assault  was  turned  into  a  rapid  flight  and  a 
hot  pursuit,  in  which  they  had  been  com- 
pelled to  abandon  the  animals  they  had  rode, 
and  escape  on  their  war  horses. 

Into  this  uncertain  and  dangerous  region, 
small  parties  of  three  or  four  trappers,  wno 
now  could  collect  together,  rarely  ventured  ; 
and  consequently  it  was  seldom  visitrd  and 
little  known.  Having  determined  to  try 
the  passage  by  a  pass  through  u  spur  of  the 
mountains  made  by  the  Cdche-d-la-Poudre 
river,  which  rises  m  the  high  bed  of  moun- 
tains around  Long's  peak,  I  thought  it  ad- 
visable to  avoid  any  encumbrance  which 
would  occasion  detention,  and  accoidingly 
again  separated  the  party  into  two  divisions 
— one  of  which,  under  the  command  of  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick,  was  directed  to  cross  the  plains 
to  the  mouth  of  Laramie  river,  and,  continu- 
ing thence  its  route  along  the  usual  emi- 
grant road,  meet  me  at  i  ort  Hall,  a  post 
belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
and  situated  on  Snake  river,  as  it  is  com- 
monly called  in  tho  Oregon  Territory,  al- 
though better  known  to  us  as  Lewis's  fork 
of  the  Columbia.  The  latter  name  is  there 
restricted  to  one  of  the  upper  forks  of  the 
river. 

Our  Delaware  Indians  having  determined 
to  return  to  their  homes,  it  became  necessa- 
ry to  provide  this  party  with  a  good  hunter ; 
and  I  accordingly  engaged  in  that  capacity 
Alexander  Godey,  a  young  man  about  S& 
years  of  age,  who  had  been  in  this  country 
six  or  seven  years,  all  of  which  time  had 
been  actively  employed  in  hunting  for  the 
support  of  the  posts,  or  in  solitary  trading 
expeditions  among  the  Indians.  In  courage 
and  professional  skill  he  was  a  formidable 
rival  to  Carson,  and  constantly  afterwards 
was  among  the  best  and  most  efficieat  of 
the  party,  and  .Id  difficult  situations  was  of 


< 


nAPT.  FREMONT'S  NAHKATIVE. 


fl84S 


inetlcululilfl  yalue.  Hir*in  Pnwera,  ono 
of  the  men  lielunging  to  Mr.  Fiixpatrick'a 
party,  waa  ditcliarged  at  tliia  place. 

A  Krencli  ongag^,  at  Luuton'a  fort,  had 
bean  ahot  in  the  back  on  tho  4th  of  July, 
and  dind  durinj^  our  ahience  to  tho  Arkan- 
■aH.  The  wiio  of  the  murdered  man,  un 
Indian  woman  of  tho  Snake  nation,  deairoua, 
tike  Naomi  of  old,  to  return  to  her  people, 
rsquestud  and  obtained  |)ormiMMion  to  travel 
with  my  party  to  the  neighborhood  of  Hear 
river,  where  ahe  expected  to  meet  with 
some  of  their  villagea.  Happier  than  the 
Jewish  widow,  ahe  carried  with  her  two 
children,  pretty  little  half-breeda,  who  added 
much  to  the  livelineaa  of  the  camp  Her 
baggage  was  carried  on  five  or  aix  pack 
horses ;  and  I  gave  her  a  small  tent,  for 
which  I  no  longer  had  any  use,  aa  I  had 
procured  a  lodge  at  the  fort. 

For  my  own  party  I  selected  tho  follow- 
ing men,  a  number  of  whom  old  associations 
rendered  agreeable  to  me  : 

Charles  Preuss,  Christopher  Carson,  Ba- 
sil Lajeunesse,  Francois  liadeau,  J.  B.  Ber- 
nier,  Louis  Menard,  Ranhaol  Proue,  Jacob 
Dodson,  Louis  Zindel,  Henry  Leo,  J.  B. 
Derosier,  Frangois  Lajeunesse,  and  Auguste 
Vasquez. 

By  observation,  the  latitude  of  the  post  is 
40O  10'  33",  and  its  longitude  105°  IS'  33", 
depending,  with  all  the  other  longitudes 
along  this  portion  of  tho  line,  upon  a  subse- 
quent occultation  of  September  13,  1843,  to 
which  they  are  referred  by  the  chronome- 
ter. Its  distance  from  Kansas  landing,  by 
the  road  we  travelled,  (which,  it  will  be  re- 
membered, was  very  winding  along  the 
lower  Kanaaa  river,)  was  750  miles.  The 
rate  of  the  chronometer,  determined  by  ob- 
servations at  this  place  for  the  interval  of 
our  absence,  during  this  month,  was  33.73", 
which  you  will  hereafter  see  did  not  sensi- 
bly change  duving  the  ensuing  month,  and 
remained  nearly  constant  during  the  re- 
mainder of  our  journey  across  tho  continent. 
This  waa  the  rate  used  in  referring  to  St. 
Vrain's  fort,  tho  longitude  between  that 
place  and  the  mouth  of  the  Fontaine-gui- 
bouit. 

Our  various  barometrical  observations, 
which  are  better  worthy  of  confidence  than 
the  isolated  determination  of  1843,  give,  for 
the  elevation  of  the  fort  above  the  sea,  4,030 
feet.  The  barometer  here  used  was  also  a 
better  one,  and  leas  liable  to  derangement. 

At  tho  end  of  two  days,  which  was  allow- 
ed to  my  animals  for  necessary  repose,  all 
the  arrangoraents  had  been  completed,  and 
3n  the  afternoon  of  the  S6th  wo  resumed  our 
respective  routes.  Some  little  trouble  was 
experienced  in  crossing  the  Platte,  the  wa- 
ters of  wbich  were  stiil  kept  cp  Oy  raias  a.id 
meiting  taovr;  and  luving  travelled  only 


about  four  milei*,  we  encamped  in  the  even- 
ing on  'I'hompsun's  rreek,  where  we  wera 
ytiry  much  diMtuibed  by  moiqiiitoes. 

Tho  following  days  wo  continued  o«r 
march  we>tward  over  coniporalivn  plaiiw, 
and,  fording  tho  ('a(;lic-<k-la-i'oudr«  on  tht 
morning  of  the  ysth,  entered  tho  Black  hilla, 
and  nooncd  on  this  stream  in  tho  mountains 
beyond  them.  Pabsing  over  n  lino  large 
bottom  in  tho  afternoon,  we  renclied  a  plac« 
whore  the  river  was  shut  u|i  in  the  hills , 
and,  ascending  a  ravine,  niuilt<  a  laborious 
and  very  diflioult  passage  around  by  a  gat, 
striking  the  river  again  about  dusk.  A  littit 
labor,  however,  would  rcninvo  this  diffi- 
culty, and  render  the  rniid  to  this  point  a 
very  excellent  ono.  Tlio  evening  oloaed 
in  dark  with  rain,  and  tho  mountains  looked 
gloomy. 

July  89. — Leavin(;  our  encampment  about 
7  in  the  morning,  we  travelled  until  3  in  the 
oflernoon  along  the  river,  which,  for  this 
distance  of  about  six  miles,  runo  directly 
through  a  spur  of  tho  main  mountains. 

We  were  compelled  by  the  nature  of  the 
ground  to  cross  the  river  eight  or  nine  times, 
at  difficult,  deep,  and  rocky  fords,  the  stream 
running  with  great  force,  swollen  by  the 
rains — a  true  mountain  torrent,  only  forty 
or  fifty  feet  wide.  It  was  a  mountain  valley 
of  the  narrowest  kind — almost  a  chasm, 
and  the  scenery  very  wild  and  beautiful. 
Towering  mountains  rose  round  about ;  their 
sides  sometimes  dark  with  forests  of  pine, 
and  sometimes  with  lofty  precipices,  washed 
by  the  river ;  while  below,  as  if  they  in- 
demnified themselves  in  luxuriance  for  the 
scanty  space,  the  green  river  bottom  was 
covered  with  a  wilderness  of  flowers,  theii 
tall  spikes  sometimes  rising  above  our  heads 
as  we  rode  among  them.  A  profusion  of 
blossoms  on  a  white  flowering  vine,  {clema- 
tis lasianthi,)  which  was  abundant  along  the 
river,  contrasted  handsomely  with  the  green 
foliage  of  the  trees.  Tho  mountain  appear- 
ed to  be  composed  of  a  greenish  gray  and 
red  granite,  which  in  some  places  appeared 
to  be  in  a  state  of  decomposition,  making  a 
red  soil. 

The  stream  was  wooded  with  cotton- 
wood,  box-elder,  and  cherry,  with  currant 
and  serviceberry  bushes.  Afler  a  some- 
what laborious  day,  during  which  it  had 
rained  incessantly,  we  encamped  near  th« 
end  of  the  pass  at  the  mouth  of  a  small 
creek,  in  sight  of  the  great  Laramie  plains. 
It  continued  to  rain  heavily,  and  at  evening 
the  mountains  were  hid  in  mists  ;  but  thers 
was  no  lack  of  wood,  and  the  large  fires  we 
made  to  dry  our  clothes  were  very  comfort- 
able ;  and  at  night  the  hunters  came  in  with 
a  fine  deer  Ruu^h  and  difficult  as  we  found 
I  the  yaOa  to-day,  an  excellent  road  may  be 
I  made  with  a  little  labor.     £levauoii  oi  iM 


mm 


e  encamped  in  the  e»en- 
preek,  where  we  wert 
(I  l*y  moiqiiitoes. 
ilnyB  wu  continued  our 
(ver  coniparatiYo  plains, 
ftclie-<k-la-i'nu(lr«  on  the 
I,  entered  tlio  Klaok  hille, 
■troam  in  tlio  niountaiDS 
HBJnK  over  n  tine  Ivge 
noon,  we  reiiclicd  a  place 
»  Bliut  U|i  ui  the  hilla , 
avine,  niuile  a  laborioua 
)aM:ig;c  around  by  a  m, 
iKaiii  about  dusk.  A  litti* 
vould  rcnuive  tliia  diffi- 
the  road  tn  this  point  a 
10.  'I'lio  evening  closed 
and  the  mountains  looked 

in^;  our  encampment  about 
we  traveliod  until  3  in  the 
he  river,  which,  for  thia 

six  miles,  runn  directly 
the  main  mountains, 
lelled  by  the  nature  of  the 
le  river  eight  or  nine  times, 
and  rocky  fords,  the  stream 
3at  force,  swollen  by  the 
:)untain  torrent,  only  forty 

It  was  a  mountain  valley 
,  kind — almost  a  chaam, 
very  wild  and  beaMtiful. 
line  rose  round  about ;  their 
dark  with  forosta  of  pine, 
ith  lofty  precipices,  waahed 
hile  below,  as  if  they  in- 
slvea  in  luxuriance  for  the 
le  green  river  bottom  waa 
vilderness  of  flowers,  theii 
imes  rising  above  our  heads 
)ng  them.     A  profusion  of 
hite  flowering  vine,  {clema- 
nich  was  abundant  along  the 
1  handsomely  with  the  green 
jea.    The  mountain  appear- 
ed of  a  greenish  gray  and 
oh  in  some  places  appeared 
of  decomposition,  making  a 

was  wooded  with  cotton- 
■,  and  cherry,  with  currant 
y  bushes.  After  a  some- 
day, during  which  it  had 
;ly,  we  encamped  near  th« 
IS  at  the  mouth  of  a  small 
of  the  great  Laramie  plains, 
rain  heavily,  and  at  evening 
vere  hid  in  mists  ;  but  there 
wood,  and  the  large  fires  we 
r  clothes  were  very  comfort- 
ght  the  hunters  came  in  with 
uugh  and  difficult  as  wo  fotind 
,  an  excellent  road  majr  b« 
tie  labor.    Elevation  oi  ;ai 


IMS.] 


C.Vl'T.  KUKMONTS  NAllUAIIVK. 


ramp  5,540  feet,  and  'listaooe  from  St. 
Vrain's  fort  50  niil.'N. 

July  30, — 'i'h«  duy  was  bright  again  ;  the 
thonnoniolor  nt  suiirine  6d'^ ;  and  leaving 
3ur  f'ncuinpmnnt  at  H  o'clock,  in  about  half 
A  mile  wo  crosnod  the  Ciirhe-d-la-l'oudre 
river  for  the  lust  time  ;  and,  entering  a 
imoother  country,  wn  traveliod  along  a  kind 
of  voUon,  bounded  on  the  right  by  red  buttos 
and  prccipioca,  wliilu  to  the  loft  u  high  roll- 
ing country  extended  to  a  range  of  the 
DIdck  hills,  beyond  which  rose  the  great 
mountains  around  Long's  peak. 

Hy  the  great  nuantity  of  snow  visible 
imong  thoni,  it  had  probably  snowod  heavily 
there  the  previous  day,  wliile  it  had  rained 
on  us  in  the  valley. 

We  hallod  at  noon  on  a  small  branch ; 
and  in  the  afternoon  travelled  over  a  high 
country,  gradually  ascending  towards  a 
range  of  buttea,  or  \\\\j,\\  hills  covered  with 
pines,  which  I'orms  the  dividing  ridge  be- 
tween the  waters  wo  had  left  and  those  of 
Laramie  river. 

Late  in  the  evening  we  encamped  at  a 
spring  of  cold  water,  near  the  summit  of  the 
ridge,  having  increased  our  elevation  to 
7,520  feet.  During  the  day  we  had  travel- 
led '24  miles,  liv  some  indifieront  observa- 
tions, our  latitudo  is  41'^  03'  19".  A  spe- 
cies of  hedeomt  was  clmraoteristio  along  the 
whole  day's  route. 

Emerging  from  the  mountains,  we  enter- 
ed a  region  of  bright,  fair  weather.  In  my 
experience  in  this  country,  I  was  forcibly 
impressed  with  the  different  character  of 
the  climate  on  opposite  sides  of  the  Kocky 
mountain  range.  The  vast  prairie  plain  on 
the  east  is  like  the  ocean ;  the  rain  and 
clouds  from  the  constantly  evaporating  anow 
of  the  mountains  rushing  down  into  the  heat- 
ed air  of  the  plains,  on  which  you  will  have 
occasion  to  remark  the  frequent  storms  of 
rain  we  encountered  during  our  journey. 

July  3L — The  morning  was  clear  ;  tem- 
perature 48°.  A  fine  rolling  road,  among 
jiiiiy  and  grassy  hilla,  brought  us  this  morn- 
ing into  a  large  trail  where  an  Indian  vil- 
lage had  recently  passed.  The  weather 
was  pleasant  ant?  coo. ;  we  were  disturbed 
by  neither  mosquitoes  nor  flies;  and  the 
country  was  certainly  extremely  beantiful. 
The  «Iopes  and  broad  ravines  were  abso- 
lutely covered  with  fields  of  flowers  of  the 
moat  exquisitely  beautiful  colors.  Among 
those  which  had  not  hitherto  made  their  ap- 
pearance, and  which  here  were  characteris- 
tic, was  a  new  delphinium,  of  a  green  and 
lustrous  metallic  mue  color,  mingled  with 
compact  fields  of  several  bright-colored  va- 
rieties of  astragalus,  which  were  crowded 
together  in  splendid  profusion.  This  trail 
conducted  us  through  a  remarkable  defile, 
to  a  little  timbered  creek,  up  which  we 


wound  our  way,  passing  by  a  singular  and 
munnivii  wall  of  dark-nul  granite.  I'hs 
l(iini:itiiin  of  the  country  is  a  red  ft<lds]ialhio 
graiiito,  overlying  a  decomposing  muss  of 
the  sutnn  rock,  forming  the  soil  of  all  thia 
region,  which  everywiiuro  iH  red  and  urav- 
elly,  and  appears  to  be  of  a  great  lluraT  fer« 
tility. 

As  wo  emerged  on  a  small  tributary  of 
the  liUramie  river,  coming  in  sight  of  its 
principal  stream,  the  flora  became  perfiiotly 
niagnilicont ;  and  we  congratulatcil  our- 
selves, as  we  rode  along  our  pleasant  road, 
that  wo  had  substituted  thii<  for  the  iinliiter- 
esting  country  between  Laramie  hills  and 
the  ^Sweut  Water  valley.  We  had  no  meat 
for  supper  last  night  or  brt^akfasi  this  inurn- 
ing,  and  were  glad  to  soo  Carson  come  in 
at  noon  with  a  good  antelope. 

A  meridian  ooservation  of  the  sun  placed 
us  in  latitude  i\o  of  OU".  In  the  evening 
we  encamped  on  the  Laramie  river,  which 
is  here  very  thinly  timbered  with  scattered 
groups  of  cotton-wood  at  considerable  inter- 
vals. From  our  camp,  we  are  able  to  dis- 
tinguish the  gorves,  in  which  are  the  sources 
of  C&ohe-ilt-ra-I'oudre  and  Laramie  rivers  ; 
and  the  Medicine  Bow  mountain,  ton'.uls 
the  point  of  which  we  are  directing  Dur 
course  this  afternoon,  has  been  in  sight  the 
greater  part  of  the  day.  By  observation 
the  latitude  was  41°  1&  03",  and  longitude 
106°  16'  64".  The  same  beautiful  flora 
continued  till  about  four  in  the  afternoon, 
when  it  suddenly  disappeared,  with  the  red 
soil,  which  became  sandy  and  of  a  whitish- 
gray  color.  The  evening  waa  tolerably 
clear;  temperature  at  sunset  64°.  The 
day's  journey  was  30  miles. 

August  1. — The  morning  waa  calm  and 
dear,  wiih  sunrise  temperature  at  43°.  We 
travelled  to  day  over  a  plain,  or  open  roll- 
ing country,  at  the  foot  of  the  Medicine 
Bow  mountain ;  the  soil  in  the  morning  be- 
ing sandy,  with  fragments  of  rock  abun- 
dant; and  in  the  afternoon,  uhen  we  ap- 
proached closer  to  the  mountain,  so  stony 
that  we  made  but  little  way.  The  beautiful 
plants  of  yesterday  reappeared  occasional- 
ly ;  flax  in  bloom  occurred  during  the  morn- 
ing, and  esparcette  in  luxuriant  abundance 
was  a  characteristic  of  the  stony  ground  in 
the  afternoon.  The  camp  was  roused  into 
a  little  excitement  by  a  chase  after  a  butfa- 
lo  bull,  and  an  encounter  with  a  war  party 
of  Sioux  and  Cheyenne  Indians  about  30 
strong.  Hares  and  antelope  were  been  du- 
ring the  day,  and  one  of  the  latter  was 
killed.  The  Laramie  peak  was  in  sight 
this  afternoon.  The  evening  was  clearj 
with  scattered  clouds :  temperature  G'2°, 
The  day's  journey  was  26  miles. 

August  3. — Temperature  at  sunrise  &2°, 
and  scenery  and  weather  made  our  road  to- 


' 


i 


CAPT.  FHKMONTS  NARRATIVE. 


11843 


day  deligliJful.     The  neighborinjr  mountain 
is  thickly  studded  with  pines,  intermingled 
with   the   briijiter  foliage  of  aspens,  and 
occasional   spots   like   lawns  between  the 
patches  of  snow  among  the  pines,  and  here 
and  there  on  the  heights.    Our  route  below 
lay  over  a  comparative  plain,  covered  with 
the  same  brilliant  vegetation,  and  the  day 
was  clear  and  pleasantly  cool.     During  the 
morning,  we  crossed  many  streams,  clear 
and  rocky,  and  broad  grassy  valleys,  of  a 
strong  black  soil,  washed  down  from  the 
mountains,  and  producing  excellent  pastu- 
rage.    These  were  timbered  with  the  red 
willow  and  long-leaved  cotton-wood,  min- 
gled  with  aspen,   as  we   approached  the 
mountain  more  nearly  towards  noon.     Es- 
parcette  was  a  characteristic,  and  flax  oc- 
curred frequently  in  bloom.    We  halted  at 
noon  on  the  most  western  fork  of  Laramie 
river — a  handsome  stream  about  sixty  feet 
wide  and  two  feet  deep,  with  clear  water 
and  a  swift  current,  over  a  bed  composed 
entirely  of  boulders  or  roll  stones.     There 
was  a  large  open  bottom  here,  on  which 
were  many  lodge  poles  lying  about ;  and  in 
the  edge  of  the  surrounding  timber  were 
three  strong  forts,  that  appeared  to  have 
been  recently  occupied.     At  this  place  I 
became  first  acquainted  with  the  yampah, 
{anethum  graveolens,)  which  I  found  our 
Snake  woman  engaged  in  digging  in  the 
low  timbered  bottom  of  the  creek.    Among 
the  Indians  along  the  Rocky  mountains,  and 
more  particularly  among  the  Shoshonee  or 
Snake  Indians,  in  whose  territory  it  is  very 
abundant,  this  is  considered  the  best  among 
the  roots  used  for  food.    To  us  it  was  an 
interesting  plant — a  little  link  between  the 
savage  and  civilized  life.    Here,  among  the 
Indians,  its  root  is  a  common  article  of  food, 
which  they  take  pleasure   in   offering  to 
strangers ;  while  with  ua,  in  a  considerable 
portion  of  America  and  Europe,  the  seeds 
are  used  to  flavor  soup.     It  grows  more 
abundantly,  and  in  greater  luxuriance,  on 
one  of  the  neighboring  tributaries  of  the 
Colorado  than  m  any  other  part  of  this  re- 
gion ;   and  on  that  stream,  to  which  the 
Snakes  are  accustomed  to  resort  every  year 
to  procure  a  supply  of  their  favorite  plant, 
they  have  bestowed  the  name  of  Yampah 
river.    Among  the  trappers,  it  is  generally 
known  as  Little  Snake  river;  but  in  this 
and  other  instances,  where  it  illustrated  the 
history  of  the  people  inhabiting  the  country, 
I  have  preferred  to  retain  on  th    map  the 
aboriginal  name.     By  a  meridional  obser- 
vation, the  latitude  is  41°  46'  69". 

In  the  afternoon  we  took  our  way  direct- 
ly across  the  spurs  from  the  point  of  the 
mountain,  where  we  had  several  ridges  to 
cross ;  and,  although  the  road  was  not  ren- 
dered bad  by  the  nature  of  the  ground,  it 


was  made  extremely  rough  by  the  stiff 
tough  bushes  of  artemisia  tridenlata,*  in 
this  country  commonly  called  sage. 

This  shrub  now  began  to  make  its  ap- 
pearance in  compact  fields  ;  and  we  were 
about  to  quit  for  a  long  time  this  country  of 
excellent  pasturage  and  brilliant  flowers. 
Ten  or  twelve  buffalo  bulls  were  seen  dur- 
ing the  afternoon  ;  and  we  were  surprised 
by  the  appearance  of  a  large  red  ox.  We 
gathered  around  him  as  if  he  had  been  an 
old  acquaintance,  with  all  our  domestic  fceu 
mgs  as  much  awakened  as  if  we  had  come  in 
sight  of  an  old  farm  house.  He  had  proba- 
bly made  his  escape  from  8on;e  party  of 
emigrants  on  Green  river ;  and,  with  a  vivid 
remembrance  of  some  old  green  field,  he 
was  pursuing  the  straightest  course  for  the 
frontier  that  the  country  admitted.  We 
carried  him  along  with  us  as  a  prize  ;  and, 
when  it  was  found  in  the  morning  that  ho 
had  wandered'  off,  I  would  not  let  him  be 
pursued,  for  I  would  rather  have  gone 
through  a  starving  time  of  three  entire  days, 
than  let  him  be  killed  after  he  had  success- 
fully run  the  gauntlet  so  far  among  the  In 
dians.  I  have  been  told  by  Mr.  Bent's 
people  of  an  ox  born  and  raised  at  St, 
Vrain's  fort,  which  made  his  escape  from 
them  at  film  grove,  near  the  frontier,  hav- 
ing come  in  that  year  with  the  wagons. 
They  were  on  their  way  out,  and  saw  occa- 
sionally places  where  he  had  eaten  and  Iain 
down  to  rest ;  but  did  not  see  him  for  about 
700  miles,  when  they  overtook  him  on  the 
road,  travelling  along  to  the  fort,  having 
unaccountably  escaped  Indians  and  every 
other  mischance. 

We  encamped  at  evening  on  the  princi- 
pal fork  of  Medicine  Bow  river,  near  to  as 
isolated  mountain  called  the  Medicine  Butte, 
which  appeared  to  be  about  1,800  feet  above 
the  plain,  from  which  it  rises  abruptly,  and 
was  still  white,  nearly  to  its  base,  with  a 
great  quantity  of  snow.  The  streams  were 
timbered  with  the  long-leaved  cotton-wood 
and  red  willow ;  and  during  the  afternoon  a 
species  of  onion  was  very  abundant.  I  ob- 
tained here  an  immersion  of  the  first  satel- 
lite of  Jupiter,  which,  corresponding  very 
nearly  with  the  chronometer,  placed  us  in 
longitude  106o  47'  85".  The  latitude,  by 
observation,  was  41°  37'  16";  elevatioD 
above  the  sea,  7,800  feet,  and  distance  from 
St.  Vrain's  fort,  147  miloe. 

August  3. — There  was  a  white  frost  last 
night ;  the  morning  is  clear  and  cool.    We 

*  The  greater  portion  of  our  Bub«equeut  jour- 
ney was  through  a  region  whero  this  shrub  cop- 
Btituted  the  tree  of  the  country ;  and,  as  it  will 
often  be  mentioned  in  occasional  descriptiooi, 
the  word  artemitia  only  will  be  uaodi  witboui 
the  specific  nuuo. 


«»*<• 


11843 

ely  rough  by  the  BtifT 
rtemisia  IriderJala,*  in 
>nly  called  sage. 

began  to  make  its  ap> 
ct  fields  ;  and  we  ^ere 
long  time  this  country  of 
e  and  brilliant  flowers, 
'alo  bulls  were  seen  dur- 

and  we  were  surprised 
of  a  large  red  ox.  We 
im  as  if  he  had  been  an 
rith  all  our  domestic  fcei^ 
ened  as  if  we  had  come  in 
n  house.  He  had  proba- 
ipe  from  8on;e  party  of 
n  river ;  and,  with  a  vivid 
ome  old  green  field,  he 
itraightest  course  for  the 

country  admitted.  We 
with  us  as  a  prize ;  and, 

in  the  morning  that  ho 

I  would  not  let  him  be 
ould    rather  have    gone 

time  of  three  entire  days, 
led  after  he  had  success- 
tlet  so  far  among  the  In 
een  told  by  Mr.  Bent's 

born  and  raised  at  St. 
h  made  his  escape  from 
e,  near  the  frontier,  hav- 

year  with  the  wagons, 
X  way  out,  and  saw  occa- 
ere  he  had  eaten  and  lain 
did  not  see  him  for  about 
hey  overtook  him  on  the 
long  to  the  fort,  having 
;aped  Indians  and  every 

it  evening  on  the  princi- 
ine  Bow  river,  near  to  as 
;alled  the  Medicine  Butte, 
i  be  about  1,800  feet  above 
lich  it  rises  abruptly,  and 
learly  to  its  base,  with  a 
mow.     The  streams  were 

long-leaved  cotton-wood 
nd  daring  the  afternoon  a 
ras  very  abundant.  I  ob- 
mersion  of  the  first  satel- 
hich,  corre^pondintr  very 
shronometer,  placed  us  in 
r  85".    The  latitude,  by 

410  37'  16";    elevation 

00  feet,  and  distance  from 
47  miloB. 

ere  was  a  white  frost  last 
ig  ia  clear  and  cool.    We 

rtion  of  our  subsequent  jour- 
region  whern  tnis  shrub  cod- 
Ihe  country ;  and,  as  it  will 

1  in  occasional  deecriptions, 
I  only  will  be  usod,  wiUuwt 


1841] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


«1 


were  early  on  the  road,  having  breakfasted 
before  sunrise,  and  in  a  few  miles  travel 
entered  the  pass  of  the  Medicine  Butte, 
tlirnugh  which  led  a  broad  trail,  which  had 
iiL'un  recently  travelled  by  a  very  large  par- 
ty. Immeoiately  in  the  pass,  the  road  was 
hroken  by  ravines,  and  we  were  obliged  to 
clear  a  way  through  groves  of  aspens,  which 
generally  made  their  appearance  when  we 
reached  eljrrated  regions.  According  to  the 
barometer,  this  was  8.300  feet ;  and  while 
we  were  detained  in  opening  a  road,  I  ob- 
tained a  meridional  observation  of  the  sun, 
which  gave  41o  35'  48"  for  the  latitude  of 
the  pass.  The  Medicine  Butte  is  isolated 
by  a  small  tributary  of  the  North  fork  of  the 
Platte,  but  the  mountains  approach  each 
other  very  nearly ;  the  stream  running  at 
their  feet.  On  the  south  they  are  smooth, 
with  occasional  streaks  of  pine ;  but  the 
butte  itself  is  ragged,  with  escarpments  of 
red  feldspathic  granite,  and  dark  with  pines ; 
the  snow  reaching  from  the  summit  to  within 
a  few  hundred  feet  of  the  trail.  The  gran- 
ite here  was  more  compact  and  durable  i  han 
that  in  the  formation  which  we  had  passed 
through  a  few  days  before  to  the  eastward 
of  Laramie.  Continuing  out  way  over  a 
plain  on  the  west  side  of  the  pass,  where 
the  road  was  terribly  rough  with  artemisia, 
we  made  our  evening  encampment  on  the 
creek,  where  it  took  a  northern  direction, 
unfavorable  to  the  course  we  were  pursu- 
ing. Bands  of  bufTalo  were  discovered  as 
we  came  down  upon  the  plain ;  and  Carson 
brought  into  the  camp  a  cow  which  had  the 
fat  on  the  fleece  two  inches  thick.  Even 
in  this  country  of  rich  pasturage  and  abun- 
dant game,  it  is  rare  that  the  hunter  chances 
upon  a  finer  animal.  Our  voyage  had  al- 
ready been  long,  but  this  was  the  first  good 
buffalo  meat  we  had  obtained.  We  travel- 
led to-day  26  miles. 

August  4. — ^The  morning  was  clear  and 
calm ;  and,  leaving  the  creek,  we  travelled 
towards  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte,  over 
a  plain  which  was  rendered  rough  and 
broken  by  ravines.  With  the  exception  of 
some  thin  grasses,  the  sandy  soil  here  was 
occupied  almost  exclusively  by  artemisia, 
with  its  usual  turpentine  odor.  We  had  ex- 
pected to  meet  with  some  difficulty  in  cross- 
ing the  river,  but  happened  to  strike  it 
where  there  was  a  very  excellent  ford,  and 
halted  to  noon  on  the  left  bank,  300  miles 
from  St.  Train's  fort.  The  liunters  brought 
in  pack  animals  loaded  with  flne  meat.  Ae- 
'sording  to  our  imperfect  knowledge  of  the 
country,  there  should  have  been  a  small  af- 
fluent to  this  stream  a  few  miles  higher  up ; 
and  in  the  afternoon  we  continued  our  way 
among  the  river  hills,  in  the  expectation  of 
encamping  upon  it  in  the  evening.  The 
grouna  proved  to  be  so  exceedingly  diffi- 


cult, broken  up  into  hills,  terminating  in  es- 
carpments and  broad  ravines,  500  or  600 
feet  deep,  with  sides  so  precipitous  that  we 
could  scarcely  find  a  place  to  descend,  that, 
towards  sunset,  I  turned  directly  in  towards 
the  river,  and,  after  nightfall,  entered  a  sort 
of  ravine.  We  were  obliged  to  feel  our 
way,  and  clear  a  road  in  the  darkness  ;  the 
surface  being  much  broken,  and  the  pro- 
gress of  the  carriages  being  greatly  olv 
structed  by  the  artemisia,  which  had  a  luxu- 
riant growth  of  four  to  six  feet  in  height. 
We  had  scrambled  along  this  gully  for  sev- 
eral hours,  during  which  we  had  knocked 
off  the  carriage  lamps,  broker  a  thermome- 
ter and  several  small  artichis,  when,  fear- 
ing to  lose  something  of  more  importance, 
I  halted  for  the  night  at  10  o'clock.  Our 
animals  were  turned  down  towards  the  riv- 
er, that  they  might  pick  up  what  little 
grass  they  could  find;  and  after  a  little 
search,  some  water  was  found  in  a  small 
ravine,  and  improve>l  by  digging.  We  light- 
ed up  the  ravine  with  fires  of  artemisia,  and 
about  midnight  sat  down  to  a  supper  which 
we  were  hungry  enough  to  find  delightful — 
although  the  buflfalo  meat  was  crusted  with 
sand,  and  the  coffee  was  bitter  with  the 
wormwood  taste  of  the  artemisia  leaves. 

A  successful  day's  hunt  had  kept  our 
hunters  occupied  until  late,  and  they  slept 
out,  but  rejoined  us  at  daybreak,  when, 
finding  ourselves  only  about  a  mile  from  the 
river,  we  followed  the  ravine  down,  and 
camped  in  a  cotton-wood  grove  on  a  beauti- 
ful grassy  bottom,  where  our  animals  in- 
demnified themselves  for  the  scanty  fare  of 
the  past  night.  It  was  quite  a  pretty  and 
pleasant  place ;  a  narrow  strip  of  prairie 
about  five  hundred  yards  long  terminated  at 
the  ravine  where  we  entered  by  high  precip- 
itous hills  closing  in  upon  the  river,  and 
at  the  upper  end  by  a  ridge  of  low  rolling 
hUls. 

Ill  the  precipitous  bluffs  were  displayed  a 
succession  of  strata  containing  fossil  vege- 
table remains,  and  several  beds  of  coal.  In 
some  of  the  beds  the  coal  did  not  appear  to 
be  perfectly  mineralized ;  and  in  some  of 
the  seams,  it  was  compact  and  remarkably 
lustrous.  In  these  latter  places  there  were 
also  thin  layers  of  a  very  fine  white  salts, 
in  powder.  As  we  had  a  large  supply  of 
meat  in  the  camp,  which  it  was  necessary 
to  dry,  and  the  surrounding  country  appear- 
ed to  be  well  stocked  with  buffalo,  which  it 
was  probable,  after  a  day  or  two,  we  would 
jiot  see  again  until  onr  return  to  the  Missis- 
sippi waters,  I  determined  to  make  here  a 
provision  of  dried  meat,  which  would  be  ne- 
cessary for  our  subsistence  in  the  region  we 
were  about  entering,  which  was  said  to  be 
nearly  destitute  of  game.  Scaffolds  were 
accordingly  soon  erected,  fires  made,  aod 


"i  I 


t'\ 


j: 


w 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1843 


the  meat  cut  into  thin  slices  to  be  dried ; 
tnd  ail  were  busily  occupied,  when  the  camp 
was   thrown   into   a   sudden   tumult,  by  a 
charge  from  about  70  mounted  Indians,  over 
the  low  hills  at  the  upper  end  of  the  little 
bottom.     Fortunately,  the  guard,  who  was 
between  them  and  our  animals,  had  caught 
a  glimpse  of  an  Indian's  head,  as  he  raised 
himself  in  his  stirrups  to  look  over  the  hill, 
a  moment  before  he  made  the  charge  ;  and 
succeeded  in  turning  the  band  into  the  camp, 
as  the  Indians  charged  into  the  bottom  with 
the  usual  jell.    Befcre  they  reached  us,  the 
grove  on  the  verge  cf  the  little  bottom  was 
occupied  by  our    people,  and  the  Indians 
hrouf;ht  )0  a  sudden  halt,  which  they  made 
in  time  to  save  themselves  from  a  howitzer 
shot,  >«'hich  would  undoubtedly  have  been 
very  xtFecrive  in  sucl  a  compact  body  ;  and 
fuither    pioceediiigs   were   interrupted   by 
their  «igns  for  peace     They  jiruved  to  be  a 
war  party  of  Arapaho  and  Cheyenne  In- 
dians and  iiifurnied  us  that  they  had  charged 
upon  the  camp  under  tue  belief  that  we  were 
tostihi  Indians,  and   had  discovered  their 
nistake  only  at  the  moment  of  the  attack 
—an  excuse  which  policy  required  us  to  re- 
teive  as  true,  though  under  the  full  convic- 
don  that  the  display  of  our  little  howitzer, 
ind  our  favorable  position  in  the  grove,  cer- 
tainly saved  our  horses,  and  probably  our- 
selves,  from   their  marauding   intentions. 
They  had  been  on  a  war  party,  and  had 
been  defeated,  and  were  consequently  in  the 
state  of  mind  which  aggravates  their  innate 
thirst  for  plunder  and  blood.    Their  excuse, 
nowever,  was  taken  in  good  part,  and  the 
osual  evidences  of  friendship  interchanged. 
The    pipe    went    round,    provisions  were 
spread,  and  the  tobacco  and  goods  furnished 
the  customary  presents,  which   they  look 
for  even  from  traders,  and  much  more  from 
government  authorities. 

They  were  returning  from  an  expedition 
against  the  Shoshonee  Indians,  one  of  whose 
villages  they  had  surprised,  at  Bridger's 
fort,  on  Ham's  fork  of  Green  river,  (in  the 
absence  of  the  men,  who  were  engaged  in 
an  antelope  surround,)  and  succeeded  in 
carrying  off  their  horses  and  taking  several 
scalps.  News  of  the  attack  reached  the 
Snakes  immediately,  who  pursued  and 
overtook  them,  and  recovered  their  horses; 
and,  in  the  running  fight  which  ensued,  the 
Arapahos  had  lost  several  men  killed,  and 
a  number  wounded,  who  were  coming  on 
more  slowly  with  a  party  in  the  rear. 
Nearly  all  the  horses  they  had  brought  oiT 
were  the  property  of  the  whites  at  the 
fort.  After  remaining  until  ncarl/  sunset, 
they  took  their  departure ;  and  the  excite- 
ment which  their  arrival  had  afforded  sub- 
aided  into  our  usual  quiet,  a  little  enlivened 
bj  the  vigilance  rendered  necessary  by  the 


neighborhood  of  our  uncertain  visiters. 
At  noon  the  thermometer  was  at  75°,  at 
sunset  70°,  and  the  evening  clear.  Eleva- 
tion above  the  sea  0,8*20  feet ;  latitude  41° 
36'  00";  longitude  lO/O  22'  27". 

August  6. — At  sunrise  the  thermometer 
was  46<3,  the  morning  being  clear  and 
calm,  We  travelled  to-day  over  an  ex- 
tremely rugged  country,  barren  and  un- 
interesting— nothing  to  be  seen  but  arte- 
misia  bushes ;  and,  in  the  evening,  f<i|ind  a 
grassy  spot  among  the  hills,  kept  green  by 
several  springs,  where  we  encamped  late. 
Within  a  few  hundred  yards  was  a  very 
pretty  little  stream  of  clear  cool  water, 
whose  green  banks  looked  refreshing  among 
the  dry  rocky  hills.  The  hunters  brought 
in  a  fat  mountain  sheep,  (ovis  montana.) 

Our  road  the  next  day  was  through  a 
continued  and  dense  field  ot  artemisia, 
which  now  entirely  covered  the  country  in 
such  a  luxuriant  growth  that  it  was  difficult 
and  laborious  for  a  man  on  foot  to  force  his 
way  through,  and  nearly  impracticable  for 
)ur  light  carriages  The  region  through 
*hich  we  were  travelling  was  a  high 
(ilateau,  constituting  the  dividing  ridge  be- 
tween the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pa- 
cific oceans,  and  extending  to  a  considera- 
ble distance  southward,  from  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Table  rock,  at  the  southern 
side  of  the  South  Pass.  Though  broken 
up  into  rugged  and  rocky  hills  of  a  dry  and 
barren  nature,  it  has  nothing  of  a  moun- 
tainous character ;  the  small  streams  which 
occasionally  occur  belonging  neither  to  the 
Platte  nor  the  Colorado,  but  losing  them- 
selves either  in  the  sand  or  in  small  lakes. 
From  an  eminence,  in  the  afternoon,  a 
mountainous  range  hecame  visible  in  the 
north,  in  which  were  recognised  some 
rocky  peaks  belonging  to  the  range  of  the 
Sweet  Water  valley ;  and,  determining  to 
abandon  any  further  attempt  to  struggle 
through  this  almost  impracticable  country, 
we  turned  our  course  directly  north,  towards 
a  pass  in  the  valley  of  the  Sweet  Water 
river.  A  shaft  of  the  gun-carriage  was 
broken  during  the  afternoon,  causing  a  con- 
siderable  delay ;  and  it  was  late  in  an  un- 
pleasant evening  before  we  succeeded  in 
finding  a  very  poor  encampment,  where 
there  was  a  little  water  in  a  deep  trench  of 
a  creek,  and  some  scanty  grass  among  the 
shrubs.  All  the  game  here  consisted  in  a 
few  straggling  buffalo  bulls,  and  during  the 
day  there  had  been  but  very  little  grass, 
except  in  some  green  spots  where  it  had 
collected  around  springs  or  shallow  lakes. 
Within  fifty  miles  of  the  Sweet  Water,  the 
country  changed  into  a  vast  saline  plain,  in 
many  places  extremely  level,  occasionally 
resembling  the  flat  sandy  beds  of  shallow 
lakes.    Here  the  vegetation  consisted  of  a 


\  ^' 


[I8'13 

}ur    uncertain    visiters, 
lometer  was  at  76°,  at 
evening  clear.     Eleva- 
?.8-20  feet;  latitude  41° 
lO/O  22'  27". 
unrise  the  thermotneter 
ning   being    clear    and 
ed   to-day  over  an  ex- 
luntry,    barren  and   un- 
to be  seen  but  arte- 
in  the  evening,  f(i|ind  a 
tiie  hills,  kept  green  hy 
lero  we  encamped  late. 
Jred  yards  was  a  very 
I  of  clear   cool   water, 
looked  refreshing  among 
The  hunters  brought 
lieep,  (ovis  monlana.) 
ixt  day  was  through  a 
)se    field    ot    arlemisia, 
covered  the  country  in 
owth  that  it  was  difficult 
man  on  foot  to  force  his 
learly  impracticable  for 
'I'he   regfjon  through 
travelling  was    a    high 
g  the  dividing  ridge  be- 
»f  the  Atlantic  and  Pa- 
stending  to  a  considera- 
'ard,  from  the  neighbor- 
I   rock,  at  the  southern 
Pass.     Though  broken 
rocky  hills  of  a  dry  and 
has  nothing  of  a  moun- 
the  small  streams  which 
belonging  neither  to  the 
lorado,  but  losing  them- 
;  sand  or  in  small  lakes, 
ce,   in   the   afternoon,  a 
I   became  visible  in  the 
were    recognised    some 
:ing  to  the  range  of  the 
ey ;  and,  determining  to 
ler  attempt  to  struggle 
It  impracticable  country, 
se  directly  north,  towards 
sy  of  the  Sweet  Water 
the   gun-carriage  was 
afternoon,  causing  a  con- 
id  it  was  late  in  an  un- 
before  we  succeeded  in 
or   encampment,  where 
rater  in  a  deep  trench  of 
scanty  grass  among  the 
ame  here  consisted  in  a 
ilo  bulls,  and  during  the 
3n  but  very  little  grass, 
cen  spots  where  it  had 
prings  or  shallow  lakes. 
)f  the  Sweet  Water,  the 
to  a  vast  saline  plain,  in 
mely  level,  occasionally 
:  sandy  beds  of  shallow 
egetation  consisted  of  a 


1843. 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


n 


shrubby  growth,  amor  Mch  were  several 
varieties  oi'  cheiwj.--  eous  plants ;  but 
the  characieristin  fi-  la  was  Fremontia 
vermicularii,  with  smalkr  saline  shrubs 
growing  with  singular  luxuriance,  and  in 
many  placr.s  holding  exclusive  possession 
of  the  ground. 

On  the  evening  of  the  8th,  wc  encamped 
en  one  of  these  fresh-water  lakes,  which 
the  traveller  conaidcrs  himself  fortunate  to 
And ;  and  the  next  day,  in  latitude  by  ob- 
servation 4-20  20'  06",  halted  to  noon  im- 
mediately at  the  foot  of  the  southern  side 
of  the  range  which  walls  in  the  Sweet 
Water  valley,  on  the  head  of  a  small  tribu- 
tary to  that  river. 

Continuing  in  the  afternoon  our  course 
down  the  stream,  which  here  cuts  directly 
through  Uie  ridge,  forming  a  very  practica- 
ble pass,  we  entered  the  valley  ;  and,  after 
a  march  of  about  nine  miles,  encamped  on 
our  familiar  river,  endeared  to  us  by  the 
acquaintance  of  the  previous  expedition ; 
the  night  having  already  closed  in  with  a 
cold  rain-storm.  Our  camp  was  about 
twenty  miles  above  the  Devil's  gate,  which 
we  had  been  able  to  see  in  coming  down 
the  plain ;  and,  in  the  course  of  the  night, 
the  clouds  broke  away  around  Jupiter  for  a 
short  time,  during  which  we  obtained  an 
emersion  of  the  first  satellite,  the  result 
of  which  agreed  very  nearly  with  the 
•hronometer,  giving  for  the  mean  longitude 
107°  50'  07" ;  elevation  above  the  sea  6,040 
I'eet ;  and  distance  from  St.  Vrain's  fort,  by 
the  road  we  had  just  travelled,  315  miles. 

Here  passes  the  road  to  Oregon ;  and 
the  broad  smooth  highway,  where  the  nu- 
merous heavy  wagons  of  the  emigrants 
had  entirely  beaten  and  crushed  the  arte- 
misia,  was  a  happy  exchange  to  our  poor 
animals  for  the  sharp  rocks  and  tough 
shiubs  among  which  they  had  been  toiling 
so  long;  and  we  moved  up  the  valley 
rapidly  and  pleasantly.  With  very  little 
deviation  from  our  route  of  the  preceding 
year,  we  continued  up  the  valley ;  and  on 
the  evening  of  the  I2th  encamped  on  the 
Sweet  WatP'.  at  a  point  where  the  road 
turns  off  i^  cross  to  the  plains  of  Green 
river.  The  increased  coolness  of  the 
weather  indicated  that  we  had  attained  a 
crreat  elevation,  which  the  barometer  here 
placed  at  7,220  feet ;  and  during  the  nigfi; 
water  froze  in  the  lodge. 

The  morning  of  the  13th  was  clear  and 
cold,  there  being  a  white  frost;  and  the 
thermometer,  a  little  before  sunrise,  stand- 
ing at  S6.5°.  Leaving  this  encampment, 
(our  last  on  the  waters  which  flow  towards 
toe  rising  sun.)  we  took  cur  way  along  the 
apiand,  to^udt-  ttie  di\'iQ!r>«r  •::6ge  which 
aepuates  the  Atiuitio  from  the  Pacific 
waters,  and  crowed  it  by  a  road  some  miles 


further  south  than  the  one  we  had  followed 
on  our  return  in  1842.  We  crossed  very 
near  the  table  mountain,  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  South  Pass,  which  is 
near  twenty  miles  in  width,  and  already 
traversed  by  several  different  roads.  Se- 
lecting as  well  as  I  could,  in  tlio  scarcely 
distinguishable  ascent,  what  might  bo  con- 
sidered the  dividing  ridge  in  this  remarka- 
ble depression  in  the  mountain,  I  took  a 
barometrical  observation,  which  gave  7,490 
feet  for  the  elevation  above  tlio  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  You  will  remember  t<iat,  in  my 
report  of  1842,  ]  estimated  the  elevation  of 
this  pass  at  aboui  7,000  feet ;  a  correct  ob- 
servation with  H  good  barometer  enables 
me  now  to  givu  it  with  more  precision. 
Its  importance,  as  the  great  gate  through 
which  commerce  ard  travelling  may  here- 
after pass  between  the  valley  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi and  the  noitli  Pacific,  Justifies  a 
precise  notice  of  its  locality  and  distance 
from  leading  points,  in  addition  to  this 
statement  of  its  elevation.  As  stated  in 
the  report  of  1842,  its  latitude  at  the  point 
where  we  crossed  is  4*2°  24'  32" ;  its  'ongi- 
tude  1090  26'  00";  its  uiaVince  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Kansas,  by  the  common  trav- 
elling route,  962  miles ;  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Great  Platte,  along  the  valley  of  that 
river,  according  to  our  survey  of  1842, 
882  miles ;  and  its  distance  from  St.  Louis 
about  400  miles  more  by  the  Kansas,  and 
about  700  by  the  Great  Platte  route  ;  these 
additions  being  steamboat  conveyance  in 
both  instances.  From  this  pass  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Oregon  is  about  1,400  miles 
by  the  common  travelling  route ;  so  that, 
under  a  general  point  of  view,  it  may  be 
assumed  to  be  about  half  way  between  the 
Mississippi  and  the  Pacific  ocean,  on  the 
common  travelling  route.  Following  a 
hollow  of  slight  and  easy  descent,  in 
which  was  very  soon  formed  a  little  tribu- 
tary to  the  Gulf  of  California,  (for  the  waters 
which  flow  west  from  the  South  Pass  go  to 
this  gulf,)  we  made  our  usual  halt  four 
miles  from  the  pass,  in  latitude  by  observa- 
tion 420  19'  53".  Entering  here  the  valley 
of  Green  river — the  great  Colorado  of  the 
West — and  inclining  very  much  to  the 
southward  along  the  streams  which  form 
the  Sandy  river,  the  road  led  for  several 
days  over  dry  and  level  uninteresting 
plains ;  to  which  a  low,  scrubby  growth  of 
artemisia  gave  a  uniform  dull  grayish  color; 
and  on  the  evening  of  the  15th  we  en- 
camped in  the  Mexican  territory,  on  the  left 
bank  of  Green  river,  69  miles  from  the 
South  Pass,  in  longitude  110°  05'  05",  and 
latitude  41^  53'  54",  dieUnt  1,031  miles 
from  the  mouth  cf  the  K>>aeas.  Tnirf  is 
the  emigrant  road  to  Oregon,  wbi^n  bears 
much  to  the  southward.  •«  avoid  lae  niooii* 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVi!,. 


I184S. 


tains  about  tho   western  heads  of  Green 
river — the  Rio  Verde  of  tlio  Spaniards. 

August  16. — Crossing  tlie  river,  hero 
about  400  feet  wide,  by  a  very  good  ford, 
we  continued  to  descend  for  seven  or  eight 
miles  on  a  pleasant  road  along  the  right 
bank  of  the  stream,  of  whi^fi  the  islands 
and  shores  are  handsomely  |inibered  with 
ootton-wood.  The  refreshing  appearance  of 
the  broad  river,  with  its  timbered  shores 
and  green  wooded  islands,  in  contrast  to  its 
dry  sandy  plains,  probably  olitained  for  it  the 
name  of  Green  river,  which  was  bestowed 
on  it  by  the  Spaniards  who  first  came  into 
this  country  to  trade  some  35  years  ago.  It 
was  then  familiarly  known  a^  the  Seeds-ke- 
dee-agie,  or  Prairie  Hen  (tetrao  w  ophasi- 
anus)  livtr;  a  name  which  it  received  from 
the  Crows,  to  whom  its  upper  waters  be- 
long, and  on  which  this  bird  is  still  very 
abundant.  By  the  Shoshonee  and  Utah 
Indians,  to  whom  belongs,  for  a  considerable 
distance  below,  the  country  where  we  were 
now  travelling,  it  was  called  the  Bitter 
Rout  river,  from  the  great  abundance  in  its 
valley  of  a  plant  which  affords  them  one  of 
their  favorite  roots.  Lower  down,  from 
Brown's  hole  to  the  southward,  the  river 
runs  through  lofty  chasms,  walled  in  by  pre- 
cipices of  red  rock ;  and  even  among  the 
wilder  tribes  who  inliabit  that  portion  of  its 
course,  I  have  heard  it  called  by  Indian 
refugees  from  the  Californian  settlements 
the  Rio  Colorado.  We  halted  to  noon  at 
the  upper  end  of  a  large  bottom,  near  some 
oM  houses,  which  had  been  a  trading  post, 
in  latitude  41°  46'  54".  At  this  place  the 
elevation  of  the  river  above  the  sea  is 
6,230  feet.  That  of  Lewis's  fork  of  the 
Columbia  at  Fort  Hall  is,  according  to  our 
subsequent  observations,  4,500  feet.  The 
descent  of  each  stream  is  rapid,  but  that  of 
the  Colorado  is  but  little  known,  and  that 
little  derived  from  vague  report.  Three 
hundred  miles  of  its  lower  part,  as  it  ap- 
proaches the  gulf  of  California,  is  reported 
to  be  smooth  and  tranquil ;  but  its  upper 
part  is  manifestly  broken  into  many  falls 
and  rapids.  From  many  descriptions  of 
trappers,  it  is  probable  that  in  its  foaming 
•ourso  among  its  lofly  precipices  it  presents 
many  scenes  of  wild  g^ndeur ;  and  though 
offering  many  temptations,  and  often  dis- 
cussed, no  trappers  have  been  found  bold 
enough  to  undertake  a  voyage  which  has  so 
certain  a  prospect  of  a  fatal  termination. 
The  Indians  have  strange  stories  of  beauti- 
All  valleys  abounding  with  beaver,  shut  up 
among  inaccessible  walls  of  rook  in  the  lower 
course  of  the  river ;  and  to  which  the  neigh- 
boring Indians,  in  their  occasional  wars  with 
the  Spaniards,  and  among  themselves,  drive 
their  herds  of  cattle  and  flocks  of  sheep, 
leaving  them  to  pasture  in  perfect  security. 


The  road  here  leaves  the  river,  which 
bends  considerably  to  the  east ;  and  in  the 
afternoon  we  resumed  our  westerly  course, 
passing  over  a  somewhat  high  and  broken 
country ;  and  about  sunset,  after  a  day's 
travel  of  26  miles,  reached  Black's  fork  ot 
the  Green  river — a  shallow  stream,  with  a 
somewhat  sluggish  current,  about  120  feet 
wide,  timbered  principally  with  willow,  and 
here  and  there  an  occasional  large  tree.  At 
3  in  the  morning  I  obtained  an  observation 
of  an  emersion  of  the  first  satellite  of  Jupi- 
ter, with  other  observations.  The  heavy 
wagons  have  so  completely  pulverized  the 
soil,  that  clouds  of  fine  light  dust  are  raised 
by  the  slightest  wind,  making  the  road 
sometimes  very  disagreeable. 

August  17. — Leaving  our  encampmem 
at  6  in  the  morning,  wo  travelled  along  th^ 
bottom,  which  is  about  two  miles  widv 
bordered  by  low  hills,  in  whicli  the  strati 
contained  handsome  and  very  distinct  vege 
table  fossils.  In  a  gully  a  short  distanc* 
farther  up  the  river,  and  underlying  these 
was  exposed  a  stratum  of  an  impure  oi 
argillaceous  limestone.  Crossing  on  the 
way  Black's  fork,  where  it  is  one  foot  deep 
and[  forty  wide,  with  clear  water  and  a 
pebbly  bed,  in  nine  miles  we  reached  Ham's 
fork,  a  tributary  to  the  former  stream,  hav- 
ing now  about  sixty  feet  breadth,  and  a  few 
inches  depth  of  water.  It  is  wooded  witb 
thickets  of  red  willow,  and  in  the  bottom  is 
a  tolerably  strong  growth  of  grass.  The 
road  here  makes  a  traverse  of  twelve  miles 
across  a  bend  of  the  river.  Passing  in  the 
way  some  remarkable  hills,  two  or  three 
hundred  feet  high,  with  frequent  and  nearly 
vertical  escarpments  of  a  green  stone,  con- 
sisting of  an  argillaceous  carbonate  of  lime, 
alternating  with  strata  of  an  iron-brown 
limestone,  and  worked  into  picturesque 
forms  by  wind  and  rain,  at  2  in  the  after- 
noon we  reached  the  river  again,  having 
made  to-day  SI  miles.  Since  crossing  the 
great  dividing  ridge  of  the  Rocky  moan 
tains,  plants  have  been  very  few  in  variety, 
the  country  being  covered  principally  with 
artemisia. 

August  18. — ^We  passed  on  the  road,  this 
morning,  the  grave  of  one  of  the  emigrants, 
being  the  second  we  had  seen  since  falling 
into  their  trail ;  and  halted  to  noon  on  tho 
river,  a  short  distance  above. 

The  Shoshonee  woman  took  leave  of  us 
here,  expecting  to  find  some  of  her  relations 
at  Bridger's  fort,  which  is  only  a  mile  or 
two  distant,  on  a  fork  of  this  stream.  In 
the  evening  we  encamped  on  a  salt  creek, 
about  fifteen  feet  wide,  having  to-day  trar- 
elled  32  miles. 

I  obtained  an  emersion  of  the  first  sital* 
lite  under  favorable  eircmnstances,  the  Bi|^ 
being  still  and  dear.  ii  ba»<K;>i»  mt^J^i'MX  f 


^ 


^E*-_ 


(IMS. 

leaves  tlie  river,  which 
to  the  east ;  and  in  the 
led  our  westerly  course, 
ewhat  high  and  broken 
Jt  sunset,  after  a  day's 
reached  Black's  fork  ot 
a  KJialidw  stream,  with  a 
I  current,  about  120  feet 
icipally  with  willow,  and 
occasional  large  tree.  At 
obtained  an  observation 
he  first  satellite  of  Jupi- 
servations.  The  heavy 
ompletely  pulverized  the 
fine  light  dust  are  raised 
wind,  making  the  road 
Bagreeable. 

caving  our  encampmeiw 
^,  wo  travelled  along  tb^ 
about  two  miles  wldtr 
iiills,  in  which  the  strah 
le  and  very  distinct  vege 
a  gully  a  short  distance 
er,  and  underlying  these 
Iratum  of  an  impure  oi 
itone.  Crossing  on  the 
where  it  is  one  foot  deep 
with  clear  water  and  a 
I  miles  wo  reached  Ham's 
)  the  former  stream,  hav- 
ty  feet  breadth,  and  a  few 
>-ater.  It  is  wooded  with 
illow,  and  in  the  bottom  is 
I  growth  of  grass.  The 
a  traverse  of  twelve  miles 
the  river.  Passing  in  the 
kable  hills,  two  or  three 
,  with  frequent  and  nearly 
nts  of  a  green  stone,  con- 
laceous  carbonate  of  lime, 
strata  of  an  iron-brown 
worked  into  picturesque 
id  rain,  at  2  in  the  aiter- 
I  the  river  again,  having 
liles.  Since  crossing  the 
dge  of  the  Rocky  moan 
been  very  few  in  variety, 
;  covered  principally  with 

^e  passed  on  the  road,  this 
re  of  one  of  the  emigrants, 
we  had  seen  since  falling 
and  halted  to  noon  on  thi> 
ance  above. 

3  woman  took  leave  of  na 
>  find  some  of  her  relations 
,  which  is  only  a  mile  or 
,  fork  of  this  stream.  In 
mcamped  on  a  salt  creek, 
wide,  having  to-day  ttvr- 

mersion  of  the  first  Mt«l> 
le  circumstances,  the  nighl 
lar. 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FllK.MON  T'.S  NAWUATIVE. 


One  of  our  mules  died  hure,  and  in  thi.s 
portion  of  our  journey  wo  lost  six  or  seven 
of  our  animals.  The  grass  whinh  the 
country  had  lately  afiurded  was  very  poor 
and  insuflicicnt ;  and  animals  which  have 
been  accustomed  to  i^rraiu  become  soon 
weak  and  unable  to  lalior,  when  reduced  to 
no  other  nourishment  than  graNs.  The 
American  horses  (as  those  are  usually 
called  which  are  brought  to  this  country 
from  the  States)  are  not  of  any  serviceable 
value  until  after  thoy  have  remained  a 
winter  in  the  country,  and  become  ac- 
customed to  live  entirely  on  grass. 

August  10. — Desirous  to  avoid  every  de- 
lay not  absolutely  necessary,  I  sent  on  (^'ar- 
son in  advance  to  Fort  Hall  this  morning, 
to  make  arrangements  for  a  small  supply 
of  provisions.  A  few  miles  from  our  en- 
campment, the  road  entered  a  high  ridge, 
which  the  trappers  called  the  "  little  moun- 
tain," connecting  the  Utah  with  the  Wind 
river  chain ;  and  in  one  of  the  hills  near 
which  we  passed  I  remarked  strata  of  a 
conglomerate  formation,  fragments  of  which 
were  scattered  over  the  surface.  We  cross- 
ed a  ridge  of  this  conglomerate,  the  road 
passing  near  a  grove  of  low  cedar,  and  de- 
scended upon  one  of  the  heads  of  Ilam's 
fork,  called  Muddy,  where  we  made  our 
mid-day  halt.  In  the  river  hills  at  this  place, 
I  discovered  strata  of  fossilliferous  rock, 
having  an  oolitic  structure,  which,  in  con- 
nection with  the  neighboring  strata,  autho- 
rize UB  to  believe  that  here,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Kocky  mountains,  we  find  re- 
peated the  modern  formations  of  Great  Bri- 
tain and  Europe,  which  have  hitherto  been 
wanting  to  complete  the  system  of  North 
American  geology. 

In  the  afternoon  we  continued  our  road, 
and,  searching  among  the  hills  a  few  miles 
up  the  stream,  and  on  the  same  bank,  I  dis- 
covered, among  alternating  beds  of  coal  and 
clay,  a  stratum  of  white  indurated  clay, 
containing  very  clear  and  beavtiful  impres- 
sions of  vegetable  remains.  This  was  the 
most  interesting  fossil  locality  I  had  mot  in 
the  country,  and  I  deeply  regretted  that 
time  did  not  permit  me  to  remain  a  day  or 
two  in  the  vicinity ;  but  I  could  nut  antici- 
pate the  delays  to  which  I  might  be  exposed 
m  the  course  of  our  journey— «r,  rather,  I 
knew  that  they  were  many  and  inevitable ; 
and  after  remaining  here  only  about  an  hour, 
I  harried  off,  loaded  with  as  many  speci- 
mens as  I  could  conveniently  carry. 

Coal  made  its  appearance  occasionally  in 
the  hills  during  the  afternoon,  and  was  dis- 
played  in  rabbit  burrows  in  a  kind  of  gap, 
through  which  we  passed  over  some  high 
hills,  and  we  descended  to  make  our  en- 
campment on  the  same  stream,  where  we 
found  but  very  poor  grass.    In  the  evening 


a  fine  cow,  with  her  calf,  which  had  strayed 
od'  from  some  emigrant  ]>arty,  wern  found 
several  '  <iles  from  the  road,  and  brought 
into  cnni-p ;  and  n.s  she  rr;ivc  an  abundance 
of  milk,  wu  enjoyed  to-night  an  excellent 
cup  of  colFuo.  Wo  travelled  to-day  28 
miles,  and,  as  has  been  usual  bincc  crossing 
the  Green  river,  the  road  has  been  very 
dusty,  an<l  the  weather  .smoky  and  cppres- 
sively  hot.  Artemisia  was  cliaracleristic 
among  the  few  plants. 

August  20. — We  continued  to  travel  up 
the  creek  by  a  very  gradual  ascuMit  and  a 
very  excellent  grassjT  road,  passing  on  the 
way  several  small  forks  of  the  stream.  The 
hills  here  are  higher,  presenting  escarp- 
ments of  parti-colored  and  apparently  clay 
rocks,  purple,  dark  red,  and  yellow,  con- 
taining strata  of  sandstone  and  limestone 
with  shells,  with  a  bed  of  cemented  pebbles, 
the  whole  overlaid  by  beds  of  limestone. 
The  alternation  of  red  and  yellow  gives  a 
bright  appearance  to  the  hills,  one  of  which 
was  called  by  our  people  the  llainbow  hill ; 
and  the  character  of  the  country  became 
more  agreeable,  and  travelling  far  more 
pleasant,  as  now  we  found  timber  and  very 
good  grass.  Gradually  ascending,  wc  reach- 
ed the  lower  level  of  a  bed  of  white  lime- 
stone, lying  upon  a  white  clay,  on  the  upper 
line  of  which  the  whole  road  is  abundantly 
supplied  with  beautiful  cool  springs,  gushing 
out  a  foot  in  breadth  and  several  inches 
deep,  directly  from  the  hill  side.  At  noon 
we  halted  at  the  last  main  fork  of  the  creek, 
at  aa  elevation  of  7,200  feet,  and  in  latitude, 
by  observation,  41°  39'  45";  and  in  the  af- 
ternoon continued  on  the  same  excellent 
road,  up  the  led  or  northern  fork  of  the 
stream,  towards  its  head,  in  a  pass  which 
the  barometer  placed  at  8,230  feet  above 
the  sea.  This  is  a  connecting  ridge  be- 
tween the  Utah  or  Bear  river  mountains 
and  the  W^ind  river  chain  of  the  Rocky 
mountains,  separating  the  waters  of  the 
gulf  of  California  on  the  cast,  and  those  on 
the  west  belonging  more  directly  to  the  Pa- 
cific, from  a  vast  interior  basin  whose  rivers 
are  collected  into  numerous  lakes  having 
no  outlet  to  the  ocean.  From  the  summit 
of  this  pass,  the  highest  which  the  road 
crosses  between  the  Mississippi  and  the 
Western  ocean,  our  view  was  over  a  very 
mountainous  region,  whose  rugged  appear- 
ance was  greatly  increased  by  the  smoky 
weather,  through  which  the  broken  ridges 
were  dark  and  dimly  seen.  I'he  ascent  to 
the  summit  of  the  gap  was  occasionally 
steeper  than  the  national  road  in  the  Alle> 
ghanies ;  and  the  descent,  by  way  of  a  spur 
on  the  western  side,  is  rather  precipitous, 
but  the  pass  may  btill  be  called  a  good  one. 
Some  thickets  of  willow  in  the  hollows  bo> 
low  deceived  us  into  the  expectation  of 


in^'y"' 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARKATIVE. 


fl84S. 


finding  a  catnji  at  otir  usual  hour  at  ilie  foot 
of  the  mountain  ;  but  we  found  them  with- 
out water,  and  continued  down  a  ravine, 
nnd  encamped  about  dark  at  a  place  where 
the  springs  again  began  to  make  their  ap- 
pearance, but  where  our  animals  fared  bad- 
ly ;  the  stock  of  the  emigrants  having  razed 
the  grass  as  completely  as  if  wo  were  again 
in  the  midst  of  the  buiialo. 

AvgusI  21. — An  hour's  travel  this  morn- 
ing brought  US  into  the  fertile  and  pictu- 
resque valley  of  Bear  river,  the  principal 
tributary  to  the  Great  Salt  lake.  The 
stream  is  here  200  feet  wide,  fringed  with 
willows  and  occasional  groups  of  hawthorns. 
We  were  now  entering  a  region  which  for 
us  possessed  a  strange  and  extraordinary 
interest.  Wc  were  upon  the  waters  of  the 
famous  lake  which  forms  a  salient  point 
among  the  remarkable  geographical  features 
of  the  country,  and  around  which  the  vague 
and  superstitious  accounts  of  the  trappers 
had  thrown  a  delightful  obscurity,  which 
we  anticipated  pleasure  in  dispelling,  but 
which,  in  the  mean  time,  left  a  crowded 
field  for  the  exercise  of  our  imagination. 

In  our  occasional  conversations  with  the 
few  old  hunters  who  had  visited  the  region, 
it  had  been  a  subject  of  frequent  specula- 
tion ;  and  the  wonders  which  they  related 
were  not  the  less  agreeable  because  they 
were  highly  exaggerated  and  impossible. 

Hitherto  this  lake  had  been  seen  only  by 
trappers  who  were  wandering  through  the 
country  in  search  of  new  beaver  streams, 
caring  very  little  for  geography  ;  its  islands 
had  never  been  visited ;  and  none  were  to 
be  found  who  had  entirely  made  the  circuit 
of  its  shores ;  and  no  instrumental  observa- 
tions or  geographical  survey,  of  any  de- 
scription, had  ever  been  made  anywhere  in 
the  neighboring  region.  It  was  generally 
supposed  that  it  had  no  visible  outlet ;  but 
among  the  trappers,  including  those  in  my 
own  camp,  were  many  who  believed  that 
somewhere  on  its  surface  was  a  terrible 
whirlpool,  through  which  its  waters  found 
their  way  to  the  ocean  by  some  subterra- 
nean communication.  All  these  things  had 
made  a  frequent  subject  of  discussion  in  our 
desultory  conversations  around  the  fires  at 
night ;  and  my  own  mind  had  become  toler- 
ably well  filled  with  their  indefinite  pictures, 
and  insensibly  colored  with  their  romantic 
descriptions,  which,  in  the  pleiisure  of  ex- 
citement, I  was  well  disposed  to  believe, 
and  half  expected  to  realize. 

Where  we  descended  into  this  beautiful 
valley,  it  is  three  to  four  miles  in  breadth, 
perfectly  level,  and  bounded  by  mountainous 
ridges,  one  above  another,  rising  suddenly 
from  the  plain. 

We  continued  our  road  down  the  river, 
and  at  night  encamped  with  a  family  of  emi- 


grants— two  men,  women,  nnd  several  chil 
dreii — who  appeared  to  be  l)riiiging  up  the 
rear  of  the  great  caravun.  I  was  struck 
with  the  fine  appearance  of  tiicir  cattle, 
some  six  or  eight  yoke  of  oxen,  which  really 
looked  as  well  as  if  they  liud  been  all  the 
summer  at  work  on  sonio  good  farm.  It 
was  strange  to  see  one  small  fum<ly  travel- 
ling along  through  such  a  country,  so  remoto 
from  civilization.  Some  nine  years  since, 
such  a  seen;  ity  might  have  bern  a  fatal  one ; 
but  since  their  disastrous  defeats  in  the 
country  a  liitle  north,  the  Uluckfeet  have 
ceased  to  visit  these  waters.  Indians,  how- 
ever, are  very  uncertain  in  their  localities  ; 
and  the  friendly  feelings,  also,  of  those  now 
inhabiting  it  may  be  changed. 

According  to  barometrical  observation  at 
noon,  the  elevation  of  the  valley  was  6,400 
feet  above  the  sea  ;  and  our  encampment  at 
night  in  latitude  42°  03'  47",  and  longitude 
111°  10'  53",  by  observation — the  day's 
journey  having  been  S6  miles.  This  en- 
campment was  therefore  within  the  territo- 
rial limit  of  the  United  States  ;  our  travel- 
ling, from  the  time  we  entered  the  valley  of 
the  Green  river,  on  the  15ih  of  August, 
having  been  to  the  south  of  the  42d  degree 
of  north  latitude,  and  consequently  on  Mexi- 
can territory ;  and  this  is  the  route  all  the 
emigrants  now  travel  to  Oregon. 

The  temperature  at  sunset  was  65°  ;  and 
at  evening  there  was  a  distant  thundei 
storm,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the  north. 

Antelope  and  elk  were  seen  during  the 
day  on  the  opposite  prairie  ;  and  there  were 
ducks  and  geese  in  the  river. 

The  next  morning,  in  about  three  miles 
from  our  encampment,  we  reached  Smith's 
fork,  a  stream  of  clear  water,  about  50  feet 
in  breadth.  It  is  timbered  with  cotton-wood, 
willow,  and  aspen,  and  makes  a  beautiful 
debouchement  through  a  pass  about  600 
yards  wide,  between  remarkable  mountain 
hills,  rising  abruptly  on  either  side,  and  form- 
ing gigantic  columns  to  the  gate  by  which  it 
enters  Bear  river  valley,  i'he  bottoms, 
which  below  Smith's  fork  had  been  two 
miles  wide,  narrowed,  as  we  advanced,  to  a 
gap  500  yards  wide  ;  and  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  day  we  had  a  winding  route,  the 
river  making  very  sharp  and  sudden  bends, 
the  mountains  steep  and  rocky,  and  the  val- 
ley occasionally  so  narrow  as  only  to  leave 
space  for  a  passage  through. 

We  made  our  halt  at  noon  in  a  fertile  bot- 
tom, where  the  common  blue  flax  was  grow* 
ing  abundantly,  a  few  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  Thomas's  fork,  one  of  the  larger  tribu- 
taries of  the  river. 

Crossing,  in  the  aflernoon,  the  point  of  a 
narrow  spur,  we  descended  into  a  beautiful 
bottom,  formed  by  a  lateral  valley,  which 
presented  a  picture  of  home  beauty  that 


m^ 


ri848. 

)mcn,  iind  several  chil 

tu  be  l)riiiping  up  tho 

aravun.     I  was  etriick 

araiicu  of  tiinir  cattle, 

kc  of  oxen,  wliirh  really 

tiiey  Imil  lieen  all  thn 

soniit  |T(iu(l  farm.     It 

me  small  family  travel- 

iich  a  country,  so  rcmoto 

Sonic  nine  years  since, 

It  have  beni  a  fatal  one ; 

astrotis  defeats   in  the 

til,  the  Uiackfeet  have 

waters.     Indians,  how- 

rtain  in  their  localities  ; 

lings,  also,  of  those  now 

changed. 

nmctrical  observation  at 
of  the  valley  was  6,400 
and  our  encampment  at 
>  03'  47",  and  longitude 
observation — the  day's 
!n  26  miles.  This  en- 
efore  within  the  territo- 
ited  States  ;  our  travel- 
we  entered  the  valley  of 
>n  the  I5th  of  August, 
south  of  the  43d  degree 
d  consequently  on  Mexi- 
this  is  the  route  all  the 
el  to  Oregon, 
at  sunset  was  65'^  ;  and 
was  a  distant  thundei 
breeze  from  the  north, 
k  were  seen  during  the 
i  prairie  ;  and  there  were 
the  river. 

ig,  in  about  three  mites 
ent,  we  reached  Smith's 
ear  water,  about  60  feet 
nbered  with  cotton-wood, 
,  and  makes  a  beautiful 
>ugh  a  pass  about  600 
en  remarkable  mountain 
!  on  either  side,  and  form- 
is  to  the  gate  by  which  it 
valley.  I'he  bottoms, 
h's  fork  had  been  two 
ed,  as  we  advanced,  to  a 
3 ;  and  during  the  greater 
had  a  winding  route,  the 
sharp  and  sudden  bends, 
p  and  rocky,  and  the  vaJ- 
narrow  as  only  to  leave 
i  through. 

,t  at  noon  in  a  fertile  bot- 
imon  blue  flax  was  grow- 
)w  miles  below  the  mouth 
one  of  the  larger  tribu* 

afternoon,  the  point  of  a 
jscended  into  a  beautiful 
'  a  lateral  valley,  which 
:e  of  home  beauty  that 


^  i 


1843.] 


CAl'T.  FREMONT'S  N.\UU.\riVP:. 


went  directly  to  our  hearts.  Thu  edge  of 
the  w<i()d,  for  .several  miles  along  the  river, 
was  dotted  with  the  white  covcr.^  of  emi- 
grant wagons,  collected  in  grcups  at  ditfor- 
ont  camps,  where  the  smokes  wore  rising 
lazily  fiom  the  fires,  around  wliicli  the  wo- 
men wen;  occupied  in  preparing  the  evening 
mciil,and  the  children  playing  in  tlie  grass; 
and  licr(l»!  of  cattle,  grazing  about  in  the  bot- 
tom, had  an  air  of  (piiet  security,  and  civil- 
ized comfort,  that  made  a  rare  sight  for  the 
traveller  in  such  a  remote  \(ildernosa. 

In  common  with  all  the  emigration,  they 
nad  been  reposing  for  several  days  in  this 
delightful  valley,  in  order  to  recruit  their 
animals  on  its  luxuriant  pasturage  after  their 
long  journey,  anil  prepare  them  for  the  hard 
travel  along  the  comparatively  sterile  banks 
of  the  Upper  Columbia.  At  the  lower  end 
of  this  extensive  bottom,  the  river  passes 
through  an  open  cafion,  where  there  were 
high  vertical  rocks  to  the  water's  edge,  and 
tho  road  here  turns  up  a  broad  valley  to  the 
right.  It  was  already  near  sunset ;  but, 
hoping  to  reach  the  river  again  before  night, 
wo  continued  our  march  along  the  valley, 
finding  the  road  tolerably  good,  until  we 
arrived  at  a  point  where  it  crosses  the  ridge 
by  an  ascent  of  a  mile  in  length,  which  was 
80  very  steep  and  difficult  for  the  gun  and 
carriage,  that  we  did  not  reach  the  summit 
until  (lark. 

It  was  absolutely  necessary  to  descend 
into  the  valley  for  water  and  grass  ;  and  we 
were  obliged  to  grope  our  way  in  thfe  dark- 
ness down  a  very  steep,  bad  mountain,  reach- 
ing the  river  a*,  about  10  o'clock.  It  was 
late  before  our  animals  were  gathered  into 
camp,  several  of  those  which  were  very 
weak  being  necessarily  left  to  pass  the  night 
on  the  ridge  ;  and  we  sat  down  again  to  a 
midnight  supper.  The  road,  in  the  morn- 
ing, presented  an  animated  appearance.  We 
found  that  we  had  encamped  near  a  large 
party  of  emigrants  ;  and  a  few  miles  below, 
another  party  was  already  in  motion.  Here 
the  valley  had  resumed  its  usual  breadth, 
and  the  river  swept  off  along  the  mountains 
on  the  western  side,  the  road  continuing  di- 
rectly on. 

In  about  an  hour's  travel  we  met  several 
Shoshonee  Indians,  who  informed  us  that 
they  belonged  to  a  large  village  which  had 
just  come  into  the  valley  from  the  mountain 
to  the  westward,  where  they  had  been  hunt- 
ing antelope  and  gathering  service-berries. 
Glad  at  the  opportunity  of  seeing  one  of 
their  villages,  and  in  the  hope  of  purchasing 
from  them  a  few  horses,  I  turned  imme- 
diately off  into  the  plain  towards  their  en- 
campment, which  was  situated  on  a  small 
stream  near  the  river. 

We  had  approached  within  something 
more  than  a  mile  of  the  village,  when  sud- 


denly a  bingle  liiirscinan  Pinerge>i  from  it  at 
full  sjieed,  followed  by  another,  and  another, 
in  rapiil  suiu-o^^xion  ;  and  then  party  after 
party  |Miui'('(i  into  tho  phiiii,  until,  when  the 
i'oroiiKist  riiier  rea<'lud  us,  all  the  whole  in. 
tervening  plain  was  oci-upieil  by  a  mass  of 
horseriien,  which  came  charging  down  upon 
lis  with  guns  and  nakod  swords,  lances,  and 
bows  and  arrows, — Indians  entirely  naked, 
and  warriors  fully  dresned  for  war,  with  the 
long  red  streamers  of  their  war  bi.imets 
reaching  nearly  to  tliv!  grouiul,  ail  mingled 
together  in  the  bravery  of  savage  warfare. 
Tliey  had  been  thrown  into  a  sudden  tumult 
by  the  api)carance  of  our  flag,  which,  among 
these  people,  is  regarded  as  an  emblem  of 
hostility — it  being  usually  borne  by  the 
Sioux,  and  the  neighboring  mountain  In- 
dians, when  they  come  here  to  war :  and 
we  had,  accordingly,  been  mistaken  for  a 
body  of  their  enemies.  A  few  words  from 
the  chief  quieted  the  excitement ;  and  the 
whole  band,  increasing  every  moment  in 
number,  escorted  us  to  their  encampment 
where  the  chief  pointed  out  a  place  for  us  to 
encam|),  near  his  own  lodge,  and  made 
known  our  purpose  in  visiting  the  village. 
In  a  very  short  time  we  purchased  eight 
horses,  for  which  we  gave  in  exchange 
blankets,  red  and  blue  cloth,  beads,  knives, 
and  tobacco,  and  the  usual  other  articles  of 
Indian  traffic.  We  obtained  from  them  also 
a  considerable  quantity  of  berries  of  differ- 
ent kinds,  among  which  service-berries 
were  the  most  abundant ;  and  several  kinds 
of  roots  and  seeds,  which  we  could  eat  with 
pleasure,  as  any  kind  of  vegetable  food  was 
gratifying  to  us.  I  ate  here,  for  the  first 
time,  the  kooyah,  or  tobacco  root,  (Valeriana 
edulis,)  the  principal  edible  root  among  the 
Indians  who  inhabit  the  upper  waters  of  the 
streams  on  the  western  side  of  the  moun- 
tains. It  has  a  very  strong  and  remarkably 
peculiar  taste  and  odor,  which  I  can  com- 
pare to  no  other  vegetable  that  1  am  ac- 
quainted with,  and  which  to  some  persons  is 
extremely  offensive.  It  was  characterized 
by  Mr.  Preuss  as  the  most  horrid  food  he 
had  ever  put  in  his  mouth  ;  and  when,  in  the 
evening,  one  of  the  chiefs  sent  his  wife  to 
me  with  a  portion  which  she  had  prepared 
as  a  delicacy  to  regale  us,  the  odor  imme- 
diately drove  him  out  of  the  lodge  ;  and 
frequently  afterwards  he  used  to  beg  that 
when  those  who  liked  it  had  taken  what  they 
desired,  it  might  be  sent  away.  Tu  others, 
however,  the  taste  is  rather  an  agreeable 
one ;  and  I  was  afterwards  always  glad 
when  it  formed  an  addition  to  our  scant) 
meals.  It  is  full  of  nutriment ;  and  in  its 
unprepared  state  is  said  by  the  Indians  to 
have  very  strong  poisonous  qualities,  of 
which  it  is  deprived  by  a  peculiar  process, 
being  baked  in  the  ground  for  about  Uvo  dayk 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NAHHATIVK. 


[IH4S 


ii  - 

I:  ; 


The  moriiinj,'  of  thn 'Jllh  was  <lis;itrreea- 
bly  cool,  will)  un  easterly  wiml  and  vory 
■moky  wcatliur.  Wo  madt!  a  lalo  blart  from 
the  village,  and,  rc^ainiii};  the  riKid,  (on 
which,  during  all  the  day,  won;  scattered 
the  emigrant  wagons,)  wo  coiitiniied  on 
down  the  valley  of  the  river,  hordered  by 
high  and  mountainous  hills,  on  which  fircu 
are  seen  at  the  sunrimit.  The  soil  appears 
generally  good,  although,  with  the  grasses, 
many  of  the  plants  are  dried  up,  probably  on 
accouiit  of  the  great  heat  and  want  uf  ram. 
The  common  blue  flax  of  cultivation,  now 
almost  entirely  in  seed — only  a  scattered 
flower  here  and  there  remaining — is  the 
most  characteristic  plant  of  the  Bear  river 
valley-  When  we  encamped  at  night  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  river,  it  was  growing 
as  in  a  sown  field.  We  had  travelled  during 
the  day  22  miles,  encamping  in  latitude  (by 
observation)  43°  36'  56",  chronometric  lon- 
gitude 11 10  43' 05". 

In  our  neighborhood,  the  mountains  ap- 
peared extremely  rugged,  giving  still  great- 
er value  to  this  beautiful  natural  pass. 

August  35. — This  was  a  cloudless  but 
smoky  autumn  morning,  with  a  cold  wind 
from  the  8E.,  and  a  temperature  of  45°  at 
sunrise.  In  a  few  miles  I  noticed,  where  a 
little  stream  crossed  the  road,  fragments  of 
scoriatcd  basalt  scattered  about — the  first 
volcanic  rock  we  had  seen,  and  which  now 
became  a  characteristic  rock  along  our  fu- 
ture road.  In  about  six  miles  travel  from 
our  encampment,  we  reached  one  of  the 
points  in  our  journey  to  which  we  had  al- 
ways looked  forward  with  great  interest — 
the  famous  Beer  springs.  The  place  in 
which  they  are  situated  is  a  basin  of  miner- 
al waters  enclosed  by  the  mountains,  which 
sweep  around  a  circular  bend  of  Bear  river, 
here  at  its  most  northern  point,  and  which 
frcin  a  northern,  in  the  course  of  a  few 
miles  acquires  a  southern  direction  towp.'Js 
the  Great  Salt  lake.  A  pretty  tittle 
stream  of  clear  water  enters  the  uppr.r  part 
of  the  basin  from  an  open  valley  in  thr,  moun- 
tains, and,  passing  through  the  bottam,  dis- 
charges into  Bear  river.  Cropding  this 
stream,  we  descended  a  mile  below,  and 
made  our  encampment  in  a  grove  of  cedar 
immediately  at  the  Beer  springs,  which,  on 
account  of  the  effervescing  gas  and  acid 
taste,  have  received  their  name  from  the 
Toyageurs  and  trappers  of  the  country,  who, 
in  the  midst  of  their  rude  and  hard  lives, 
are  fond  of  finding  some  fancied  resem- 
blance to  the  luxuries  they  rarely  have  the 
fortune  to  enjoy. 

Although  somewhat  disappointed  in  the 
expectations  which  various  descriptions  had 
led  me  to  form  of  unusual  beauty  of  situa- 
tion and  scenery,  I  found  it  altogether  a 
place  of  very  grnat  interest ;   and  a  trav- 


eller for  the  first  time  in  »  volcanic  region 
rcmuiiiH  in  a  constant  excitement,  and  at 
every  step  is  arrested  by  soiiiHthing  re- 
markable and  new.  Tiiero  is  u  eimfusion 
of  interesting  objects  gathered  together  in  a 
small  auaee.  Around  the  place  of  encamp- 
ment tiie  liecr  springs  were  nunicroiis  :  but, 
as  far  as  we  could  ascertain,  were  entirely 
confined  to  that  locality  in  the  bottom.  In 
the  bod  of  the  river,  in  front,  for  a  s|)ace  of 
(ip<T»ral  hundrea  yards,  they  were  very 
abundant :  the  cflervescing  gas  rising  up 
and  agitating  the  water  in  countless  bub- 
bling columns.  In  the  vicinity  round  about 
were  numerous  springs  of  an  entirely  differ- 
ent and  equally  marked  mineral  character. 
In  a  rather  picturesque  spot,  about  1,300 
yards  below  our  encampment,  and  immedi- 
ately on  the  river  bank,  is  the  most  remark- 
able spring  of  the  place.  In  an  opening  on 
the  rock,  a  white  column  of  scattered  water 
is  thrown  up,  in  form  like  a  jct-Weau,  to  a 
variable  height  of  about  three  feet,  and, 
though  it  is  maintained  in  a  constant  supply, 
its  greatest  height  is  attained  oidy  at  regu- 
lar mtervals,  according  to  the  action  of  the 
force  below.  It  is  accompanied  by  a  sub- 
terranean noise,  which,  together  with  the 
motion  of  the  water,  makes  very  much  the 
impression  of  a  steamboat  in  motion  ;  and, 
without  knowing  that  it  had  been  already 
previously  so  called,  we  gave  to  it  the  name 
of  the  Steamboat  spring.  The  rock  through 
which  it  is  forced  is  slightly  raised  in  a  con- 
vex manner,  and  gathered  at  the  opening 
into  an  urn-mouthed  form,  and  is  evidently 
formed  by  continued  deposition  from  the 
water,  and  colored  bright  red  by  oxide  of 
iron.  An  analysis  of  this  deposited  rock, 
which  I  subjoin,  will  give  you  some  idea  ot 
the  properties  of  the  water,  which,  with  the 
exception  of  the  Beer  springs,  is  the  min- 
eral water  of  the  place.*  It  is  a  hot  spring, 
and  the  water  has  a  pungent  and  disagree- 
able metallic  taste,  leaving  a  burning  effect 
on  the  tongue.  Within  perhaps  two  yards 
of  the  jet-d'eau  is  a  small  hole  of  about  an 
inch  in  diameter,  through  which,  at  regular 
intervals,  escapes  a  blast  of  hot  air  with  a 
light  wreath  of  smoke,  accompanied  by  a 
regular  noise.  This  hole  had  been  noticed 
by  Doctor  Wislizenus,  a  gentleman  who 
several  years  since  passed  by  this  place,  and 
who  remarked,  with  very  nice  observation. 


"  ANALTBI& 

Carbonate  of  lime  . 

Carbonate  of  magnesia  . 

Oxide  of  IroD . 

Silica 

Alumina 

Water  and  lo 


1^  •  • 

lOM     > 


92.55 
0.43 
1.05 

5.98 


loaoo 


K, 


[I84S 

e  III  n   volcanic  rpfjion 
nt  excitfiiient,  mid  at 
ivl    Ity   goiiinthiii);    rc- 
Tliero  18  It  ciiiit'iision 
Katliorcil  t(it;<>ther  in  a 
(1  tlio  jilaco  of  t'nnamp- 
i^H  wero  minicruiis  :  liut, 
ncerttiin,  wuro  entirely 
ility  in  tlie  hoitoiii.     In 
in  front,  for  u  space  of 
rds,    they    were    very 
vescing  gas  risinj;  up 
ater  in  countless  buh- 
he  vicinity  round  alinul 
1R8  of  an  entirely  differ- 
rked  mineral  character, 
sque  spot,  about  1,300 
campment,  and  imnicdi- 
ink,  is  the  most  remark- 
lace.     In  an  opening  on 
lumn  of  scattered  water 
n  like  ajct-(rcau,  to  a 
about   three   feet,  and, 
led  in  a  constant  supply, 
8  attained  only  nt  rcfju- 
ing  to  the  action  of  thp 
accompanied  by  a  suh- 
hich,  together  with  the 
r,  makes  very  much  the 
iamboat  in  motion  ;  and, 
lat  it  had  been  already 

two  gave  to  it  the  name 
ing.  The  rock  through 
i  slightly  raised  in  a  con- 
rathered  at  the  opening 
d  form,  and  is  evidently 
ed  deposition  from  the 
I  bright  red  by  oxide  of 

of  this  deposited  rock. 
U  give  you  some  idea  ot 
B  water,  which,  with  the 
!eer  springs,  is  the  min- 
aco.*  It  is  a  hot  spring, 
I  pungent  and  disagree- 

leaving  a  burning  elTect 
ithin  perhaps  two  yards 
a  small  hole  of  about  an 
lirough  which,  at  regular 

blast  of  hot  air  with  a 
loke,  accompanied  by  a 
is  hole  had  been  noticed 
enus,  a  gentleman  who 
passed  by  this  place,  and 
li  very  nice  observation. 


LNALTSIS. 

lesia  . 


92.55 
0.43 
1.05 

5.98 


100.00 


1843.1 


CAI'T.  niKMONT.S  NAUHAT1\  K 


that  smoiling  llin  ({as  which  issued  from  the 
oriiico  priiilucod  a  sensation  of  gidiliiu^ss 
and  nausea.  l\Ir.  I'rcuss  and  myrtelf  re- 
pented the  observation,  and  were  so  well 
Katisfinil  with  its  correctness,  that  \vu  did 
not  find  it  pleasant  to  continue  the  experi- 
ment, us  the  8en.>tation  of  giddiness  which  it 
produced  was  certainly  strong  and  decided. 
A  huge  emigrant  wagon,  with  a  largo  and 
diyeriifii'il  fnmily,  had  overtaken  us  and 
halted  to  noon  at  our  encampment ;  and, 
while  we  wero  sitting  at  the  spring,  a  band 
of  boys  and  girls,  with  two  or  three  young 
men,  came  up,  ono  of  whom  I  asked  to 
stoop  down  and  smell  the  gas,  desirous  to 
satisfy  myself  further  of  its  cfTects.  But 
his  natural  caution  had  been  awakened  by 
the  singular  and  suspicious  features  of  the 
place,  and  he  declined  my  proposal  decided- 
ly, and  with  a  few  indistinct  remarks  ai>out 
the  devil,  whom  he  seemed  to  consider  the 
genius  loci.  The  ceaseless  motion  and  the 
play  of  the  fountain,  the  red  rock,  and  the 
green  trees  near,  make  this  a  picturesque 
spot. 

A  short  distance  above  the  spring,  and 
near  the  foot  of  the  same  spur,  is  a  very  re- 
markable yellow-colored  rock,  soft  and  fria- 
ble, consisting  principally  of  carbonate  of 
lime  and  oxide  of  iron,  of  regular  structure, 
which  is  probably  a  fossil  coral.  The  rocky 
bank  along  the  shore  between  the  Steamboat 
spring  and  our  encampment,  along  which  is 
dispersed  the  water  from  the  hills,  is  com- 
posed entirely  of  strata  of  a  calcareous  Itifa, 
with  the  rninains  of  moss  and  reed-like 
grasses,  which  is  probably  the  formation  of 
springs.  The  Beer  or  Soda  uprinsfs,  which 
have  given  name  to  this  locality,  are  agree- 
able, but  less  highly  flavored  than  the  Boil- 
ing springs  at  the  foot  of  Pike's  peak,  which 
are  of  the  same  character.  They  are  very 
numerous,  and  half  hidden  by  tufts  of  grass, 
which  we  amused  ourselves  in  removing 
and  searching  about  for  more  highly  impreg- 
nated springs.  They  are  some  of  them 
deep,  and  of  various  sizes — sometimes  seve- 
ral yards  in  diameter,  and  kept  in  constant 
motion  by  columns  of  escaping  gas.  By 
analysis,  ono  quart  of  the  water  contains  as 
follows : 

Grains, 

Sulphate  of  magnesia       .     .     .    .  12.10 

Sulphate  of  lime S.12 

Carbonate  of  lime        3.86 

Carbonate  of  magnesia     ....  3.23 

Chloride  of  calcium 1.33 

Chloride  of  magnesium    ....  1.12 

Chloride  of  sodium      .     .          .     .  S.24 

Vegetable  extractire  matter,  &c.  0.85 

26.84 

The  carbonic  acid,  originally  contained  in 

•he  water  had  mainly  escaped  before  it  was 


subjected  to  analysis  ;  and  it  w  as  not,  there 
fore,  taken  into  e(ln^<i(ieration. 

In  tlin  afternoon  I  wandered  about  among 
the  cedars,  which  occupy  the  grc.itcr  |)arl 
of  the  bottom  towards  the  moiintnins.  The 
soil  here  has  a  dry  and  calcined  appearance  ; 
in  some  places,  ilie  o|)cn  grounds  are  cov- 
ered with  saline  oflloresccnces,  and  there 
are  a  number  of  regulaily-shaprd  and  very 
remarkable  hills,  which  arc  formed  of  a 
succession  of  convex  strata  that  have  been 
deposited  by  the  waters  of  extinct  springs, 
the  orifices  of  which  are  found  on  their 
summits,  some  of  thcin  having  the  form  ot 
funnel-shaped  cones.  Others  of  these  re- 
markably-shu|)cd  hills  are  of  a  red-colored 
earth,  entirely  bare,  and  composed  princi- 
pally of  carbonate  of  lime,  with  oxide  of 
iron,  formed  in  tho  same  manner.  Walking 
near  one  of  them,  on  the  summit  of  which 
the  springs  wore  dry,  my  attention  was  at- 
tracted by  an  underground  noise,  around 
whicli  I  circled  repeatedly,  until  I  found  the 
spot  from  beneath  which  it  came  ;  and,  re- 
moving tiio  red  earth,  discovered  a  hidden 
spring,  which  was  boiling  up  from  below, 
with  the  same  disagrucable  metallic  taste  as 
the  Steamboat  spring.  Continuing  up  the 
bottom,  and  crossing  the  little  stream  which 
has  been  already  mentioned,  I  visited  seve- 
ral remarkable  red  and  white  hills,  which 
had  attracted  my  attention  from  tho  road  in 
the  morning.  These  are  immediately  upon 
the  stream,  and,  like  those  already  men- 
tioned, are  formed  by  the  deiiosition  of  suc- 
cessive strata  from  the  springs.  On  their 
summits,  tho  orifices  through  which  the 
waters  had  been  discharged  were  so  large, 
that  they  resembled  miniature  craters,  being 
some  of  them  several  feet  in  diameter,  cir- 
cular, and  regularly  formed  as  if  by  art.  At 
a  former  time,  when  these  dried-up  foun- 
tains were  all  in  motion,  they  must  have 
made  a  beautiful  display  on  a  grand  scale  ; 
and  nearly  all  this  basin  appears  to  me  to 
have  been  formed  under  their  action,  and 
should  be  called  the  place  of  fountains.  At 
the  foot  of  one  of  these  hills,  or  rattier  on  its 
sido  near  the  base,  are  several  of  these 
small  limestone  columns,  about  one  foot  in 
diameter  at  the  base,  and  tapering  upwards 
to  a  height  of  three  or  four  feet ;  and  on  the 
summit  the  water  is  boiling  up  and  bubbling 
over,  constantly  adding  to  the  height  of  the 
little  obelisks.  In  some,  the  water  only 
boils  up,  no  longer  overflowing,  and  has  here 
the  same  taste  as  at  the  Steamboat  spring. 
The  observer  will  remark  a  gradual  subsi- 
deuce  in  the  water,  which  formerly  supplied 
the  fountains  ;  as  on  all  the  summits  of  the 
hills  tho  springs  are  now  dry,  and  are  found 
only  low  down  upon  their  sides,  or  on  tba 
surrounding  plain. 

A  little  higher  up  the  creek,  its  banks  •!« 


78 


CAPT.  FKKMONT'S  XAIUIATIN  1', 


(1R4S 


7  - 


formed  by  Rtrdia  of  a  vnry  heavy  nnd  hnnl 
•coriiiciMxiN  li:iH:tlt,  li:ivin)^  il  liri)(tit  in«t:illiu 
liisiro  wlicii  hrolicn.  I'lio  inniintainn  over- 
loiikiM){  till*  |il:UM  lire  (if  an  pntircly  iliir<!ri'iit 
gi!iili>)r|i';il  I'lnrarti'r.  ('unliniiiiiK  on,  I 
wulki'il  to  ili(^  siiininit  of  onn  of  tlioiii,  wlinri- 
tli(!  |irinci|i:il  rouk  wuh  u  (granular  <|iiart7,. 
l)i!8cf'iiilin^  tliu  nioiintaiiii),  anil  rnturninr; 
towariU  the  camp  ahini^  thn  haso  of  tho  ri<l|;u 
wliich  MkirtH  tho  plain,  I  found  at  tho  foot 
of  a  mountain  smir,  nnd  i^HiiinK  from  a  com- 
pact rock  of  a  dark  hluo  color,  a  grtiM  num- 
ber of  H|iring8  bavinif  tho  same  pungent  und 
disa(jrt'(;ably  metallio  taste  ttlrcady  men- 
tioned, the  water  of  which  was  collected 
into  a  very  remarkable  baHin,  whoso  singu- 
larity, perhaps,  made  it  appear  to  ino  very 
beautiful.  It  is  lar^c — portiaps  fifty  yards 
in  circumference;  and  in  it  the  water  is  con- 
tained at  an  elevation  of  several  feet  above 
tho  surroundinf^  (ground,  by  a  wall  uf  calca- 
reous tufa,  composed  principally  of  tho  re- 
mains of  mosses,  throe  or  four,  and  some- 
times ten  feet  Wifrh.  The  water  within  is 
'ery  clear  and  pure,  and  three  or  four  feet 
deep,  where  it  could  bo  conveniently  meas- 
ured near  the  wall  ;  nnd  at  a  considerably 
lower  level,  is  another  pond  or  basin  of  very 
clear  water,  and  apparently  of  considerable 
depth,  from  the  bottom  of  which  tho  gas 
was  escapint;  in  bubbling  columns  at  many 
places.  This  water  was  collected  into  a 
small  stream,  which,  in  a  few  hundred  yards, 
sank  under  ground,  reappearing  among  the 
rocks  between  thu  two  great  springs  near 
tho  river,  which  it  entered  by  a  little  fall. 

Late  in  tho  afternoon  I  set  out  on  my  ro- 
turn  to  the  camp,  and,  crossing  in  the  way 
a  large  field  of  a  salt  that  was  several  inches 
deep,  found  on  my  afrival  that  our  emigrant 
friends,  who  had  been  encamped  in  company 
with  us,  had  resumed  their  journey,  and  the 
road  had  again  assumed  its  solitary  charac- 
ter. The  temperature  of  the  largest  of  the 
Jieer  springs  at  our  encampment  was  65°  at 
Bunset,  that  of  the  nir  being  63.5°.  Our 
barometric  observation  gave  5,840  feet  for 
the  elevation  above  the  gulf,  being  about 
£00  feet  lower  than  the  lioiling  springs, 
which  are  of  a  similar  nature,  at  the  foot  of 
Pike's  peak.  The  astronomical  observa- 
tions gave  for  our  latitude  42^  39'  57",  nnd 
IIP  4C'  Cl>"  tur  the  longitude.  Tho  night 
was  very  still  and  cloudless,  and  I  sat  up 
for  an  observation  of  the  first  satellite  of 
Jupiter,  the  emersion  of  which  took  place 
about  midnight ;  but  fell  asleep  at  the  tele- 
scope, awaking  Just  a  few  minutes  after  the 
appearance  of  the  star. 

The  morning  of  the  36th  was  calm,  and 
the  sky  without  clouds,  hut  smoky  ;  and  the 
temperature  at  sunri«e  38.5^.  At  the  same 
time,  the  temperature  of  the  large  Beer 
ppriog,  where  we  were  encamped,  was  50°  - 


that  of  the  Ntcnmboat  sprinu  fl7-> ;  and  that 
of  the  sK'iim  hole,  near  it,  HI. 5^.  In  the 
course  of  the  morning,  tho  hiMt  wagiuis  of 
the  rniiu'iatioii  passed  by,  and  wo  wore 
again  li-ft  in  our  |ila(!o,  in  tho  rear. 

Itcmaiiiini;  incampiiiitil  nearly  II  o'clock, 
w(!  travelled  a  short  (iistance  down  the  riv- 
er, and  hailed  to  noon  (ui  thu  hank,  at  a 
point  where  the  mail  (jiiits  tho  valley  of 
Hear  river,  and,  crossing  a  ridge  which  di- 
vides the  (ircat  liasia  from  the  Pacific  wa- 
ters, reaches  Fort  Hall,  by  way  of  the  I'ort- 
neuf  river,  in  a  distance  of  probably  fifty 
miles,  or  two  and  n  half  days'  journey  for 
wagons  An  examination  of  the  great  lake 
which  iH  the  outlet  of  this  river,  nnd  the 
l>riiicipal  feature  of  geographical  interest  in 
the  liaHiii,  was  ono  of  tho  main  olijects  con- 
templated in  the  general  plan  of  our  survey, 
and  1  accordingly  determined  at  this  place 
to  leave  tlio  road,  and,  after  having  com- 
pleted a  reconnoissance  of  the  lake,  regain 
it  subsequently  at  Fort  Hall.  Dut  our  little 
stock  of  provisions  had  again  become  ox 
ticmely  low  ;  we  bad  only  dried  meat  buffi. 
cieiit  for  ono  meul,  and  our  supply  of  flour 
and  other  comforts  was  entirely  exhausted. 
I  therefore  immediately  dispatched  one  of 
the  party,  Henry  Lee,  with  a  note  to  (Jar- 
son,  at  Fort  Hall,  directing  him  to  lood  a 
pack  horse  with  whatever  could  be  obtained 
there  in  the  way  of  provisions,  and  endeavoi 
to  uvertuko  me  on  the  river.  In  the  mean 
time,  wo  had  picked  up  along  the  roud  two 
tolerably  well-grown  calves,  which  would 
have  become  food  for  wolves,  and  which 
had  probably  '>cen  \e(i  by  some  of  the  earli- 
er emigrants,  none  of  those  we  had  met  hav- 
ing made  nny  claim  to  them ;  and  on  these 
1  mainly  relied  for  support  during  our  cir- 
cuit to  the  lake. 

in  swcej)ing  around  the  point  of  the  moun- 
tain which  runs  down  into  the  bend,  the 
river  here  passes  between  perpendicular 
walls  of  basalt,  which  always  fix  the  atten- 
tion, from  the  regular  form  in  which  it  oc- 
curs, and  its  perfect  distinctness  from  the 
surrounding  rocks  among  which  it  has  been 
placed.  The  mountain,  which  is  rugged 
and  steep,  and,  by  our  measurement,  1,4(I0 
feet  above  the  river  directly  opposite  the 
place  of  our  halt,  is  called  the  ^heep  rock 
— probably  because  a  flock  of  the  common 
mountain  sheep  (pvis  montana)  had  bnen 
seen  on  the  craggy  point. 

As  we  were  abuut  resuming  our  march  in 
the  afternoon,  1  was  attracted  by  tho  singu* 
lar  appearance  of  an  isolated  hill  with  a 
concave  summit,  in  the  plain,  about  two 
miles  from  the  river,  and  turned  ofl*  tswards 
it,  while  the  camp  proceeded  on  its  way  to 
the  southward  in  search  of  the  lake.  I 
found  the  thin  and  stony  soil  of  the  plain 
entirely  underlaid  by  the  basalt  which  forma 


li^ 


[IMS 

wprinu  S7'' ;  iinil  that 
•ai  it,  Hi.OJ.     In  tlia 
i>j,  till)  hiNt  wnpiitm  of 
il    liy,   and   wo    wcro 
I',  in  ilio  rear, 
until  nciirly  II  o'clock, 
liiMtanco  down  the  riv- 
mn  on  tlio  hunk,  at  a 
A  (jnits  tho  valloy  of 
xiiiiT  a  rid^fp  which  di- 
H  from  tho  I'iicifio  wa- 
ll, hy  way  of  thn  I'orl- 
mco  of  prohuhly   fitly 
Imlf  diiyt'  journey  for 
mtion  oi' tho  ifruat  lake 
of  this   river,  and   the 
reojjriiphical  interest  in 
(  tho  main  ohjectH  con- 
eral  plan  of  our  survey, 
torniined  lit  this  pinco 
ind,  after  having;  com- 
)i!c  of  the  lake,  regain 
irt  Hall.    Hut  our  little 
liad  again  heconio  ex 
(I  only  dried  meat  sut& 
and  our  supply  of  floui 
van  entirely  exhausted, 
itely  dispatched  one  of 
BO,  with  a  note  to  Car- 
irocting  him  to  lo»d  a 
itcvcr  could  be  obtained 
revisions,  and  endcavoi 
Ihe  river.     In  the  mean 
i  up  along  the  road  two 
n  calves,  which  would 
for  wolves,  and  which 
9i\  by  some  of  the  earli- 
if  those  we  had  met  hav- 
to  them  ;  and  on  these 
support  during  our  cir- 

id  the  point  of  the  moun- 
wn  into  the  bend,  the 
between  perpendicular 
ch  always  (ix  the  atten- 
ar  form  in  which  it  oc- 
It  distinctness  from  thn 
inong  which  it  has  been 
iitain,  which  is  rugged 
lur  measurement,  1,400 
r  directly  opposite  the 
I  called  the  iheep  rock 
a  flock  of  the  common 
is  monlana)  had  bnen 
point. 

resuming  our  march  in 
attracted  by  the  singu- 
in  isolated  hill  with  a 
the  plain,  about  two 
I  and  turned  ofi*  towards 
)roceeded  on  its  way  to 
earch  of  the  lake.  I 
stony  soil  of  the  plain 
the  basalt  which  forma 


1S4S.1 


r.M'T.  FUKMONTS  N.\!{H.\  ri\  R. 


the  river  wiiIN  ;  iind  when  I  reached  tho 
iioighborhiMicI  ,(  the  lull,  tlin  Miirf.ire  of  ihn 
plain  waM  n  ut  into  frequent  fisHiires  and 
I'hasms  ol  ih  i.iine  H(?ori  it''il  volcanur  rook, 
from  forty  i"  itixiy  fei;t  ii,  but  which 
there  was  not  Niillicieiit  li^lit  to  penetrate 
entirely,  and  which  I  had  not  tiinu  to  do- 
Accnd.  .\rrived  at  the  niiininit  of  tho  lull, 
I  found  that  it  terminated  in  a  very  perfect 
crater,  of  an  oval,  or  nearly  circular  form, 
300  paces  in  circuinfcrence,  and  00  feet  at 
the  greatest  depth.  'I'he  walls,  which  were 
perfectly  vertiiial,  and  disposed  like  mason- 
ry in  a  very  regular  manner,  were  compos- 
ed of  a  brown-colored  scoriaceoiiH  hiva,  evi- 
dently the  iirodiictioii  of  a  modern  volcano, 
and  having  all  the  a|ipoarance  of  the  lighter 
BcoriaceouH  lavas  of  Mount  ilCtna,  Vesu- 
vius, and  other  volcanoes.  Tho  faces  of 
the  walls  were  redilened  and  glazed  by  the 
fire,  in  wliicli  they  had  been  melted,  and 
which  had  lel't  them  contorted  and  twisted 
by  its  violent  action. 

Our  route  during  the  afternoon  was  a  lit- 
tle rough,  being  (in  thn  direction  wo  had 
taken)  over  a  volcanic  plain,  where  our  pro- 
gress was  sometimes  obstructed  hy  Assures, 
and  black  beds  composed  of  fragments  of 
tho  rock.  On  both  sides,  the  mountains  ap- 
peared very  broken,  but  tolerably  well  tim- 
bered. 

August  20. — Crossing  a  point  of  ridge 
which  makes  in  to  the  river,  wo  fell  upon 
it  again  before  sunset,  and  encamped  on  the 
right  bank,  o])po8itc  to  the  encampment  of 
three  lodges  of  Snake  Indians,  They  visit- 
ed us  during  tho  evening,  and  we  obtai.iod 
from  them  u  small  quantity  of  roots  of  dif- 
ferent kinds,  in  exchange  for  goods.  Among 
them  was  a  sweet  root  of  very  pleasant  fla- 
vor, having  somewhat  the  taste  of  preserved 
quince.  My  endeavors  to  become  acquaint- 
ed with  the  plants  which  furnish  to  the  Iii- 
dians  a  portion  of  their  support  wore  only 
gradually  siiccessuii,  and  aAer  long  and  per- 
severing attention ;  and  even  after  obtain- 
ing, I  did  not  succeed  in  preserving  them 
until  they  could  be  satisfactorily  determined. 
In  this  portion  of  the  journey,  I  found  this 
particular  root  cut  up  into  such  small  pieces, 
that  it  was  only  to  be  identifled  by  its  taste, 
when  the  bulb  was  met  with  in  perfect  form 
among  the  Indians  lower  down  on  the  Co- 
lumbia, among  whom  it  is  the  highly  cele- 
brated kainas.  It  was  long  afterwards,  on 
our  return  through  Upper  California,  that  I 
found  thn  plant  itself  in  bloom,  which  I  sup- 
Dosed  to  furnish  the  kamas  root,  {camassia 
esculenta.)  The  root  diet  had  a  rather 
mournful  eficct  at  the  commencement,  and 
one  of  the  calves  was  killed  this  evening 
for  food.  The  animals  fared  well  on  rushes. 

Augusi  27. — The  morning  was  cloudy, 
with  appearance  of  rain,  and  the  thermome- 


ter at  sunrise  at  *J!) '.  Making  nn  nnusualljr 
early  kiart,  wo  croH^ed  the  river  at  a  good 
ford  ;  and,  following  lor  about  three  houra 
a  trail  which  led  along  tliu  bottom,  wo  en- 
tered a  labyrinth  ol'  lulls  below  the  main 
ridge,  and  halted  to  noon  in  thn  ravine  of  a 
pretty  liltio  stream,  timliered  with  iMitton- 
wno(i  of  a  large  si/.e,  ash-leaved  luaiile, 
with  cherry  and  other  ^llrllbl)y  trees.  'I'lie 
hazy  weather,  which  had  prevented  ahy 
very  extended  views  hincu  entering  the 
(Jreen  river  v;illey,  began  now  to  <li.-(a|i|)ear. 
There  was  a  slight  ram  in  tho  earlier  part 
of  the  day,  and  at  noon,  when  tho  thorn  o- 
meter  bad  risen  to  70.5^,  wo  had  a  Inigli. 
sun,  with  hliiii  sky  and  scattered  ritmuti. 
According  to  tho  barometer,  our  halt  hero 
among  the  hills  was  at  an  elevation  of  5,320 
feet.  Crossing  a  dividing  ridge  in  the  af- 
ternoon, we  followed  down  another  little 
Bear  river  tributary,  to  the  point  where  it 
emerged  on  an  open  green  flat  among  the 
hills,  timbered  with  groves,  and  bonlercd 
with  cane  thickets,  but  witiioiit  water.  A 
pretty  little  rivulet,  coming  out  of  tho  hilt 
side,  and  overhung  by  tall  flowering  plants 
of  a  species  1  had  not  hitherto  seen,  fur- 
nished us  with  a  good  camping  place.  The 
evening  was  cloudy,  the  temporuture  at 
sunset  GO-',  and  the  elevation  5,140  feet. 
Among  the  plants  occurring  along  the  line 
of  road  during  the  day,  epinettes  des  prai- 
ries (grindelia  squarrosa)  was  in  considera- 
ble abundance,  and  is  among  the  very  few 
plants  remaining  in  bloom — the  whole  coun- 
try having  now  an  autumnal  appearance, 
in  the  crisped  and  yellow  plants,  and  dried- 
up  grasses.  Many  cranes  were  seen  dur- 
ing tho  day,  with  a  few  antelope,  very  shy 
and  wild. 

Aufptst  28. — During  the  night  we  had  a 
thunder  storm,  with  moderate  rain,  which 
has  made  the  air  this  morning  very  clear, 
the  thermometer  being  at  56^.  Leaving 
our  encampment  at  the  Cane  spring,  am*, 
quitting  the  trail  on  which  we  had  been 
travelling,  and  which  would  probably  have 
aiTurded  us  a  good  road  to  the  lake,  we 
crossed  some  very  deep  ravines,  and,  in 
about  an  hour's  travelling,  again  reached 
the  river.  We  were  now  in  a  valley  five 
or  six  miles  wide,  between  mountain 
ranges,  which,  about  thirty  miles  below, 
appeared  to  close  up  and  terminate  the  val- 
ley, leaving  for  the  river  only  a  very  nar- 
row pass,  or  cai\on,  behind  vhich  we  ima- 
gined that  we  should  find  t^3  broad  waters 
of  the  lake.  We  made  tli)  usual  halt  at 
the  mouth  of  a  small  clear  stream,  having 
a  slightly  mineral  taste,  (perhaps  <\(  salt,) 
4,760  feet  above  the  gulf.  In  the  afternoon 
we  climbed  a  very  steep  sandy  hill ;  and, 
after  a  slow  and  winding  day's  march  of  37 
miles,  encamped  at  a  slough  nn  the  rivw. 


CAI'T.  FUKMONT'S  NAHKAIIVK. 


[leo 


i\ 


■^' 


There  wnro  arrnt  qiir.nlitica  of  gecmt  and 
diinkx,  of  wliirli  only  ii  frw  wrrn  t-hxi  ;  the 
]nill:tiiiili:iviii;r|ircilialilyiii!l<li<(liciu  vnrywilil. 
I'ho  liii'ii  <'iii|iliiyn(l  tlimiHolvuit  in  (Uliinir, 
)iit  ?iiii||lit  iiotliint;.  A  Rkiink,  (mr/ihili.i 
Anirnrnna.)  wliioli  was  killLMl  in  tliu  al'lcr- 
noon,  inailc  ii  HiippiT  for  onn  of  tlio  incMRcn. 
Tliu  rivi-r  is  hordtiri'd  oncttnionally  with 
ficldit  of  nine,  wliicli  wo  rp((ard(Ml  un  nil  in- 
diriition  of  otir  sippronRh  to  a  lako  country. 
Wo  had  fr(M|U('nt  dioworH  of  rain  during;  this 
lii(;ht,  with  thuiiiirr, 

AnffiiKl  ao. — 'I'ho  thormonirtcratBunriso 
wnM  6'l-~',  with  nir  from  llio  NW.,  and  dark 
rainy  (doiids  inovin)^  on  tlin  horizon;  rain 
itquullit  and  l)riij:lit  HiinHliino  by  intorvnU.  I 
rodo  ahead  with  liaxil  to  explore  this  ooiin- 
try,  and,  eontinninfi  uhoiit  thrco  milef*  alon^ 
.ho  river,  turned  dirretly  oil"  on  a  trail  run- 
ning towarcirt  three  marked  paps  in  the  bor- 
dering rani^e,  where  the  inountainx  ap- 
peared out  throui;li  to  their  boNCB,  towards 
which  the  river  plain  rose  ((ladually.  i'ut- 
tiii!;  our  liorHi's  into  a  gallop  on  soino  fresh 
trucks  which  Bhowed  very  plainly  in  the 
wet  patli,  wc  eanio  suddenly  upon  a  sniuli 
party  of  ShoHhonco  Indians,  who  had  fulloii 
into  the  trail  from  the  north.  Wo  could 
only  comniiiiiiciito  by  siftns ;  hut  thoy 
iiadc  UH  understand  that  the  road  throu^^h 
ho  chain  was  n  very  excellent  one,  Icad- 
■g  into  a  broad  valley  which  ran  to 
iho  aoiilhw:i''d.  We  halted  to  noon  ut 
what  may  be  called  tho  gatu  of  the  pass  ; 
on  cither  side  of  which  wore  iiuiKe  nioun- 
'. dins  of  rock,  between  which  stole  a  little 
pure  water  stream,  with  a  mar^'in  just  suf- 
ticientl y  large  for  our  passage.  1'  roni  the 
river,  the  plain  iiad  gradually  risen  to  an 
altitude  of  5,600  feet,  and,  by  meridian 
observation,  iho  latitude  of  the  entrance 
was  48=". 

In  the  interval  of  our  usual  halt,  several 
of  US  wandered  along  up  the  stream  to  ex- 
amine tho  pass  more  at  leisure.  Within 
the  gato,  the  rocks  receded  a  little  back, 
leaving  a  very  narrow,  but  most  beautiful 
Talley,  through  which  the  little  stream 
wouiid  its  way,  hidden  by  different  kinds  of 
trees  and  shrubs — a:<pen,  maple,  willow, 
cherry,  and  elder ;  a  fine  verdure  of  smooth 
short  gra.ss  spread  over  the  remaining  space 
to  the  bare  sides  of  the  rocky  walls.  These 
wore  of  a  blue  limestone,  which  constitutes 
the  mountain  here  ;  and  opening  directly  on 
the  grassy  bottom  were  several  curious 
caves,  which  appeared  to  be  inhabited  by 
root  diggers,  Un  one  side  was  gathered  a 
heap  ol  leaves  for  a  bed,  and  they  were 
dry,  open,  and  pleasant.  On  the  roofs  of 
the  caves  I  remarked  bituminous  exuda- 
tions from  the  rock. 

The  trail  was  an  excellent  one  for  pack 
horses ;    but,  as    it    sometimes    crossed  a 


•lielvintr  point,  to  avoid  the  ihrubbery  wt 
were  ohiued  in  hovituI  plaeeit  to  open  a 
road  for  tho  carna^'e  thionuli  the  wood,    A 

N(|uaw   on   hor^eliack,  a< inpiiiiird  by  five 

or  NIX  dog»,  entered  the  pahii  in  the  aftcr- 
iMiiiii;  but  was  too  iniieh  terrified  ut  finding 
li'  'If  in  Nucli  unexpe<'led  eiiin|iany  to 
iii.ilx'  any  pause  for  eonveritation,  and  hur- 
ried olf  ut  a  good  pace — heing,  of  coiirsn, 
no  further  dJMtiirbi.'d  than  by  un  aceelerating 
sliniit.  .She  was  well  and  nlidwily  dressed 
and  wav  prol)ahly  ^'oing  to  a  village  encamp 
(id  soiiH  wliere  near,  and  evidently  did  no 
belong  to  the  triliu  of  runt  dii;i!;cr!<.  Wo 
had  now  entered  a  country  inhabited  by 
these  people  ;  and  as  in  the  course  of  oui 
voyage  we  shall  fre(|uently  meet  with  then 
in  various  stages  of  exiNtenei-,  it  will  be 
well  to  inform  you  that,  spattered  over  tho 
great  region  west  of  tho  Itoeky  mountains 
and  south  of  the  lireat  Snake  river,  are 
numerous  Indians  whose  Htil)HistMnce  is  al- 
most solely  (lerivnl  from  roots  and  seeds, 
and  such  small  animals  us  ehaiico  and  great 
good  fortune  soinetimes  bring  within  Mii  ir 
reach.  Thuy  are  iiiiHerably  poor,  arnied 
only  with  bows  uiid  arrows,  or  clubs  ;  and, 
us  tho  country  tlioy  inhabit  is  almost  desti- 
tute of  game,  tliey  have  no  irieans  of  ob- 
taining better  anus.  In  the  northern  part 
of  the  region  jiixt  iiieiitioiied,  they  live  gen- 
erally in  solitary  families ;  and  farther  to 
tho  south,  they  are  gathered  together  in 
villages.  Those  who  live  together  in  vil- 
lages, strengthened  by  association,  are  in 
exclusive  possession  of  the  more  genial 
and  richer  parts  of  the  country ;  while  thk 
others  are  driven  to  the  ruder  mountains, 
and  to  tho  more  inhospitablo  parts  of  the 
country.  Uut  by  simply  obserring,  in  ac- 
companying us  along  our  road,  you  will  be- 
come better  acquainted  with  these  people 
than  we  could  make  you  in  any  other  than 
a  very  long  description,  and  you  will  find 
them  worthy  of  your  interest. 

Roots,  seeds,  and  grass,  every  vegetable 
that  affords  any  nourishment,  and  every 
living  animal  thing,  insect  or  worm,  thev 
eut.  Nearly  appioaching  to  the  lower  ani- 
mal creation,  their  solo  employment  is  to 
obtain  food ;  and  they  are  constantly  oc- 
cupied in  a  struggle  to  support  existence. 

The  most  remarkable  feature  of  the  paas 
is  the  Standing  rock,  which  has  fallen  from 
the  clifTs  above,  and  standing  perpendicularly 
near  tho  middle  of  the  valley,  presenti  it- 
self like  a  watch  tower  in  the  pass.  It 
will  give  you  a  tolerably  correct  idea  of  the 
chaTacter  of  the  scenery  in  this  country, 
wb.rre  generally  the  mountains  rise  abruptly 
up  from  comparatively  unbroken  plains  and 
level  valleys ;  but  it  will  entirely  fail  in 
representing  the  picturesque  beauty  of  this 
delightful  place,  whore  a  green  valley,  full 


'^Mtw 


\  ^ 


[IS4S 

voiil  tlir  ulirulilinry  wt 
vi'iiil   |iht<'i'!i  til  oprii  n 

tliriiii^li  iliit  wiiiiil,  A 
k,  mM-(iin|iiiiiir<l  hy  live 

tliii  pUMii  ill  tho  iil'tcr- 
niicli  tcrrilinl  ut  tiniliii|f 
ii('X|ii.'('lc-il   ciiiniiaiiy   to 

citiivrrHutiiiii,  uiul  hur- 
|i!iCL' — iM'iiip;,  111'  cmiriii', 
tiKiii  by  uii  aci-i'l(<r:ttiiig 
!ll  and  xliiivvily  ilrcsiiod 
InK  Ilia  villnfru  uncatiip 
,  ami  oviilciilly  (ltd  no 

of  ronl  Jif^i;er.i.  Wo 
I  ciiiiMtry  iiiliatiited  liy 
iH  in  tliu  coiirHO  (if  oni 
ijuuiitly  niPiit  with  tlieri 
)f  cxintdin'c,  it  will  lie 
that,  drattiTcil  over  tho 
f  tliu  Itiifky  mountains 
Jroat  Siiaku  river,  are 
A'hiitio  Niilmistunce  in  al> 

frdii)  riHilH  and  noeds, 
lain  as  ehanco  and  great 
imcH  hring  within  'in  ir 
iiiiHurably  poor,  armed 
I  arrows,  or  clubs  :  and, 

inhabit  is  almost  desti- 

havt!  iiu  intMins  of  ub- 
Iii  ihu  northern  pnrt 
luiitioned,  they  live  gen- 
amilics ;  and  further  to 
ro  gathured  together  in 
lio  live  together  in  viU 
i  hy  association,  are  in 
i>n  of  tho  more  genial 
tho  country ;  white  tht 
to  tho  ruder  tnountainB, 
inhospitable  parts  of  the 
simply  obsorring,  in  ac- 
ig  our  road,  you  will  be- 
intcd  with  these  people 
ke  you  in  any  other  than 
ption,  and  you  will  find 
ur  interest. 

J  grass,  every  vegetable 
nourishment,  and  every 
g,  insect  or  worm,  they 
>aching  to  tho  lower  am- 
r  solo  employment  is  to 
they  are  constantly  oe- 

0  to  support  existence, 
kable  feature  of  the  priM 
ck,  which  has  fallen  from 

1  standing  perpendicularly 
f  tho  valley,  presents  it- 
tower  in  the  pass.     It 

Brably  corre>!t  idea  of  the 
ccnery  in  this  countrvi 
0  mountains  rise  abruptly 
vcly  unbroken  plains  and 
it  will  entirely  fail  in 
icturesque  beauty  of  this 
here  a  green  valley,  full 


rio.] 


CAPT.  PHKMt)NT'M  NAHHATIVR. 


of  fnlia^rn,  and  a  hiimlreil  ya'iU  u  nlf.  non- 
traats  with  naked  rnxgn  tliitt  spirn  up  into  a 
blun  line  lit  piniiaeles  3,0U()  feet  uhiivc 
■ometiiiK'H  rrenteil  will)  rudar  and  pine,  ami 
lometiiiii'H  riiu'^i'd  and  bare. 

The  iletniuion  that  wo  rfi<"t  with  in  open- 
ing the  roidl,  and  perhaps  a  wiU'ognets  to 
linger  on  tho  way,  made  tho  ''•■  moon's 
traTel  short ;  and  about  two  mill's  Irmn  llin 
entrance  we  passeil  tliroiigh  another  n'Mr, 
and  cneninpeij  on  tho  stream  nt  thn  Junction 
of  a  little  fork  tVom  thn  southward,  around 
which  the  mountains  stooped  more  gently 
down,  forininit  a  small  o|)on  cove. 

As  it  was  Htill  early  in  tho  afternoon, 
llasil  and  myself  in  one  direction,  and  Mr. 
I'rouss  in  aunt  her,  set  mit  to  explore  tho 
eountry,  and  aseninled  diflbront  neighboring 
peaks,  in  the  lio|i(!  of  seeing  some  indica- 
tions of  the  lake  ;  but  though  our  elevation 
sflbrded  inngiiifiuent  views,  tho  eye  rang- 
ing over  a  long  extent  of  Hoar  river,  with 
the  broad  and  fertile  Cache  vnlUy  in  the 
direction  of  our  search,  was  only  to  be 
seen  a  bed  of  njiparently  impracticable 
mountains.  Among  these,  thn  trail  wo  had 
been  following  turned  sharply  to  tho  north- 
ward, and  it  bi>gau  to  he  doubtful  if  it  would 
not  lead  us  away  from  tho  object  of  our 
destination  ;  hut  I  novortholcss  determined 
to  keep  it,  in  tho  belief  that  it  would  event- 
ually bring  us  right.  A  squall  of  rain  drovo 
us  out  of  tho  mountain,  and  it  was  late 
when  wo  reached  tho  camp.  Tho  evening 
closed  in  with  frequent  showers  of  rain, 
with  some  lightning  and  thunder. 

Augu.nt  30. — Wo  had  constant  thunder 
storms  during  the  night,  but  in  the  morn- 
iug  tho  clouds  were  sinking  to  tho  horizon, 
and  the  air  was  clear  and  cold,  with  the 
thermometer  at  sunrise  at  30^.  Elevation 
by  barometer  6,580  feet.  Wo  were  in  mo- 
tion early,  continuing  up  the  little  stream 
without  encountering  any  ascent  where  a 
horse  would  not  easily  giillop,  and,  crossing 
a  slight  dividing  ground  at  the  summit,  de- 
scended upon  a  small  stream,  along  which 
we  continued  on  the  same  excellent  road. 
In  riding  through  the  pass,  numerous  cranes 
were  seen ;  and  prairie  hens,  or  grouse, 
(bonasia  umbellui,)  which  lately  had  been 
rare,  were  very  abundant. 

This  little  affluent  brought  us  to  a  larger 
stream,  down  which  wo  travelled  through  a 
more  open  bottoin,  on  a  level  road,  where 
heavily-laden  wagons  could  pass  without 
obstacle.  The  hills  on  the  right  grew 
lower,  and,  on  entering  a  more  open  coun- 
try, we  discovered  a  Shoshoneo  village ; 
and  being  desirous  to  obtain  information, 
and  purchase  from  them  some  roots  and 
berries,  we  halted  on  the  river,  which  was 
lightly  wooded  with  cherry,  willow,  maple, 
■enrice  berry,  and  aspen.  A  meridian  ob- 
6 


servation  of  ilio  sun,  which  I  obtained  here 
gave  t'J  '  ir  2'i"  for  our  l-ititiiile,  and  the 
b.'iroiiieter  indicated  a  height  of  3,170  feet. 
A  'iMiiber  of  Indians  came  imiiieilialely 
over  III  H-it  iM,  and  sevi.ral  men  were  neiit 
to  tho  vill.igi'  with  goods,  tiibaeeo,  knives, 
I'!  I'h,  vorniiliiiii,  and  thn  iimiiiiI  trinkets,  to 
exeliM/iun  for  provisions.  Hut  lliey  had  no 
game  of  any  kind  ;  and  it  was  ditlieult  to 
obtain  any  roots  (Vom  them,  as  they  were 
miserably  poor,  ami  bad  hiif  little  to  spare 
from  their  winter  slock  of  provisimiH,  Sev- 
eral of  tho  Indians  drew  aside  their  blankets, 
showing  mo  their  lean  and  bony  tlgnrcs  ; 
and  I  would  not  any  longer  tempt  tlioni  with 
a  display  of  our  inercbandisn  to  part  with 
their  wrotclied  siiliNJstcnee,  when  they  gave 
as  a  rnasoii  that  it  would  expose  them  to 
temporary  slarvalion.  A  great  portion  of 
tho  region  inhabited  by  this  nation  formerly 
abounded  in  game  ;  the  bulTalo  ranging  about 
in  herds,  as  wo  had  found  them  on  tho  east- 
ern waters,  and  the  plains  dotted  with  scat- 
tered banils  of  antolope ;  but  so  rapidly 
have  tliey  <lisappcar';d  within  a  few  years, 
that  now,  as  wo  journeyed  along,  an  occa- 
sional huflalo  skull  and  a  few  wild  antelope 
were  all  that  remained  of  the  abundance 
which  had  covered  the  country  with  animal 
life. 

Tho  extraordinary  rapidity  witli  whhh 
tho  buffalo  is  disappearing  from  our  territo- 
ries will  not  appear  surprising  when  wo  re- 
member tho  great  scale  on  which  their  de- 
struction is  yearly  carried  on.  With  incon- 
siderable exceptions,  the  business  of  the 
American  trading  posts  is  carried  on  in  their 
skins ;  every  year  the  Indian  villages  inako 
new  lodges,  for  which  'ho  akin  of  tho  buffa- 
lo furnishes  the  material ;  and  in  that  por- 
tion of  the  country  whore  tiny  are  still 
found,  the  Indians  derive  their  entire  sup- 
port from  them,  and  slaughter  them  with 
a  thoughtless  and  abominable  extravagance. 
Like  tho  Indians  themselves,  they  have 
been  a  characteristic  of  the  Great  West ; 
and  as,  like  thorn,  they  are  visibly  diminish- 
ing, it  will  be  interesting  to  throw  a  glance 
backward  through  the  last  twenty  years, 
and  give  some  account  of  their  former  dis- 
tribution through  tho  country,  and  the  limit 
of  their  western  range. 

Tho  information  is  derived  principally 
from  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  supported  by  my  own 
personal  knowledge  and  acquaintance  with 
the  country.  Our  knowledge  does  not  go 
farther  back  than  the  spring  of  1834,  at 
which  time  the  buffalo  were  spread  in  im- 
mense numbers  over  tho  Grocn  river  and 
Bear  river  valleys,  and  through  all  the 
country  lying  between  the  Colorado,  or 
Green  river  of  the  gulf  of  California,  and 
Lewis's  fork  of  tho  Columbia  river  j  the 
meridian  of  Fort  Hall  then  forming  th« 


if 


*^     _ 


M 


CAPT.  FHK.MO.NT'S  NARRATIVE. 


Lisia. 


r.; 


western  limit  of  their  range.  The  bufllilo 
then  remained  for  many  years  in  tiiat  coun- 
try) and  frequently  moved  down  tiie  valley 
of  the  Columbia,  on  both  sides  of  the  river 
IS  far  as  the  Fishing  falls.  Below  this 
point  they  never  descended  in  any  numbers. 
About  the  year  1834  or  1835  they  began  to 
diminish  very  rapidly,  and  continued  to  de- 
crease until  1838  or  1840,  when,  with  the 
country  wo  have  just  described,  they  en- 
tirely abandoned  all  the  waters  of  the  Pa- 
cific north  of  Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia, 
At  that  time,  the  Flathead  Indians  were  in 
the  habit  of  finding  their  buffalo  on  the 
heads  of  Salmon  river,  and  other  streams  of 
the  Columbia ;  but  now  they  never  meet 
with  them  farther  west  than  the  three  forks 
of  the  Missouri  or  the  plains  of  the  Yellow- 
stone river. 

In  the  course  of  our  journey  it  will  be  re- 
marked that  the  buffalo  have  not  so  entirely 
abandoned  the  waters  of  the  Pacific,  in  the 
Rocky-rnountain  region  south  of  the  Sweet 
Water,  as  in  the  country  north  of  the  Great 
Pass.     This  partial  distribution  can  only  be 
accounted  for  in  the  gre:it  pastoral  beauty 
of  that  country,  which  bears  marks  of  hav- 
ing long  been  one  of  their  favorite  haunts, 
and  by  the  fact  that  the  while  hunters  have 
"e  frequented  the  northern  than  the  south- 
jgion — it  being  north  of  the  South  Pass 
he  hunters,  trappers,  and  traders,  have 
leir  rendezvous  for  many  years  past ; 
'  om  that  section  also  the  greater  por- 
.  of  the  beaver  and  rich  furs  were  taken, 
although  always  the  most  dangerous  as  well 
as  the  most  profitable  hunting  ground. 

In  that  region  lying  between  the  Green 
or  Colorado  river  and  the  head  waters  of 
the  Rio  del  Norte,  over  the  Yampah,  KoO' 
yah,  White,  and  Grand  rivers — all  of  which 
are  the  waters  of  the  Colorado — the  buffalo 
never  extended  so  far  to  the  westward  as 
they  did  on  the  waters  of  the  Columbia ;  and 
only  in  one  or  two  instances  have  they  been 
known  to  descend  as  far  west  as  the  mouth 
of  White  river.  In  travelling  through  the 
country  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  ob- 
servation readily  led  me  to  the  impression 
that  the  buffalo  had,  for  the  first  time,  cross- 
ed that  range  to  the  waters  of  the  Pacific 
only  a  few  years  prior  to  the  period  we  are 
considering ;  and  in  this  opinion  I  am  sus- 
tained by  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  and  the  older 
trappers  in  that  country.  In  the  region  west 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  we  never  meet  with 
any  of  the  ancient  vestiges  which,  through- 
out all  the  country  lying  upon  <heir  eastern 
waters,  are  found  in  the  great  highways, 
continuous  for  hundreds  of  miles,  always 
several  inches  and  sometimes  several  feet  in 
depth,  which  the  buffalo  have  made  in  cross- 
ing from  one  river  to  another,  or  in  travers- 
ing the  mountain  ranges.    The  Snake  In- 


dians, more  particularly  those  low  down  up> 
on  Lewis's  fork,  have  always  been  very 
grateful  to  the  American  trappers,  for  the 
great  kindness  (as  they  frequently  expressed 
it)  which  they  did  to  them,  in  driving  the 
buffalo  so  low  down  the  Columbia  river. 

The  extraordinary  abundance  of  the  buf- 
falo on  the  east  side  of  the  Uneky  moun- 
tains, and  their  extraordinary  diminution, 
will  be  made  clearly  evident  from  the  fol- 
lowing statement :  At  any  time  between  the 
years  1834  and  1836,  a  traveller  might  start 
from  any  given  point  south  or  north  in  the 
Rocky  mountain  range,  journeying  by  the 
most  direct  route  to  the  Missouri  river ; 
and,  during  the  whole  distance,  his  road 
would  be  always  among  la.ge  bands  of  buf- 
falo, which  would  never  be  out  of  his  view 
until  he  arrived  almost  within  sight  of  the 
abodes  of  civilization. 

At  this  time,  the  buffalo  occupy  but  a 
very  limited  space,  principally  along  the 
eastern  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  some- 
times extending  at  their  southern  extremity 
to  a  considerable  distance  into  the  plains 
between  the  Platte  and  Arkansas  rivers, 
and  along  the  eastern  frontier  of  New  Mex- 
ico as  far  south  as  Texas. 

The  following  statement,  which  I  owe  to 
the  kindness  of  Mr.  Sanford,  a  partner  in 
the  American  Fur  Company,  will  furthei 
illustrate  this  subject,  by  extensive  know- 
ledge acquired  during  several  years  of  travel 
through  the  region  inhabited  by  the  buffalo : 

"The  total  amount  of  robes  annually 
traded  by  ourselves  and  others  will  not  be 
found  to  differ  much  from  the  following 
statement : 

RobM. 

American  Fur  Company,  .  70,000 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  .  .  10,000 
All  other  companies,  probably    10,000 

Making  a  toUl  of    ...     .    90,000 
as  an  average  annual  return  for  the  last 
eight  or  ten  years. 

"In  the  northwest,  the  Hudson's  Ba> 
Company  purchase  from  the  Indians  but  a 
very  small  numb?r — their  only  market  being 
Canada,  to  which  the  cost  of  transportation 
nearly  equals  the  produce  of  the  furs ;  and 
it  is  only  within  a  very  recent  period  that 
they  have  received  buffalo  robes  in  trade ; 
and  out  of  the  great  number  of  buffalo  an- 
nually killed  throughout  the  extensive  re- 
gions inhabited  by  the  Camanches  and  other 
kindred  tribes,  no  robes  whatever  are  fur- 
nished for  trade.  During  only  four  months 
of  the  year,  (from  November  until  March,) 
the  skins  are  good  for  dressing ;  those  ob- 
tained in  the  remaining  eight  months  being 
valueless  to  traders  ;  and  the  hides  of  bulls 
are  never  taken  off  or  dressed  as  robes  at 
any  season.     Probably  not  more  thail  om- 


'iiS^ 


^^*l' 


;e 


ularly  those  low  down  up- 

have  always  been  very 
mcrican  trappers,  for  the 
thev  Irequeiitly  expressed 

to  tlieni,  in  driving  the 
n  the  Columbia  river. 
iry  abundance  of  the  buf- 
&iile  of  the  Kocky  moun- 
extraordinary  diminution, 
irly  evident  from  the  fol- 

At  any  time  between  the 
t^36,  a  traveller  might  start 
loint  south  or  north  in  the 
range,  journeying  by  Iho 
to  the  Missouri  rirer ; 
whole  distance,  his  road 
among  la.  ge  bands  of  buf- 
1  never  be  out  of  his  view 
ilmost  within  sight  of  the 
tion. 

the  buffalo  occupy  but  a 
ce,  principally  along  the 
le  Rocky  mountains,  some- 
it  their  southern  extremity 

distance  into  the  plains 
jtte  and  Arkansas  rivers, 
stern  frontier  of  New  Mex- 
13  Texas. 

statement,  which  I  owe  to 

Mr.  Sanford,  a  partner  in 

'uT  Company,  will  furthei 

iibjcct,  by  extensive  know- 

aring  several  years  of  travel 

.on  inhabited  by  the  buifalo : 

Amount  of   robes   annually 

Ives  and  others  will  not  be 

muck  from  the  following 

Rob«. 

r  Company,  .  70,000 
iT  Company,  .  .  10,000 
ipanics,  probably     10,000 


ilof    .     .     .     .     90,000 
annual  return  for  the  last 
trs. 

ihwest,  the  Hudson's  Bay 
ase  from  the  Indians  but  a 
|}7r — their  only  market  being 
ih  the  cost  of  transportation 
lie  produce  of  the  furs ;  and 
1  a  very  recent  period  that 
ived  buffalo  robes  in  trade ; 
^reat  number  of  buffalo  an- 
roughout  the  extensive  re- 
by  the  Camanches  and  other 
no  robes  whatever  are  fur- 
I.  During  only  four  months 
om  November  until  March,) 
ood  for  dressing ;  those  ob- 
imaining  eight  months  being 
ders  ;  and  the  hides  of  bulls 
I  off  or  dressed  as  robes  at 
tobably  not  more  thail  ona- 


mimm!)i9i(i(im 


1843.) 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


83 


third  of  the  si.  ns  are  taken  from  the  animals 
killed,  even  when  they  are  in  good  season, 
the  labor  of  preparing  and  dressing  the 
robes  being  very  great ;  and  it  is  seldom 
that  a  lodge  trades  more  than  twenty  skins 
in  a  year.  It  is  during  the  summer  months, 
and  in  the  early  part  of  autumn,  that  the 
greatest  number  of  buffalo  are  killed,  and 
yet  at  this  time  a  skin  is  never  taken  for  the 
purpose  of  trade." 

Irom  these  data,  which  are  certainly 
limited,  and  decidedly  within  bounds,  the 
reader  is  lef\  to  draw  his  own  inference  of 
the  immense  number  annually  killed. 

In  1843,  I  found  the  Sioux  Indians  of  the 
Upper  Platte  demontiis,  as  their  French 
traders  expressed  it,  with  the  failure  of  the 
buffalo ;  and  in  the  following  year,  large 
villages  from  the  Upper  Missouri  came  over 
to  the  mountains  at  the  heads  of  the  Platte, 
in  search  of  them.  The  rapidly  progressive 
failure  of  their  principal  and  almost  their 
only  means  of  subsistence  has  created  great 
alarm  among  them  ;  and  at  this  time  there 
are  only  two  modes  presented  to  them,  by 
which  they  see  a  good  prospect  for  escaping 
starvation  :  one  of  these  is  to  rob  the  settle- 
ments along  the  frontier  of  the  States  ;  and 
the  other  is  to  form  a  league  between  the 
various  tribes  of  the  Sioux  nation,  the 
Cheyennes,  and  Arapahoes,  and  make  war 
against  the  Crow  nation,  in  order  to  take 
from  them  their  cou  ',ry,  which  is  now  the 
best  buffalo  country  in  the  west.  This  plan 
they  now  have  in  consideration;  and  it 
would  probably  be  a  war  of  extermination, 
as  tho  Crows  have  long  been  advised  of  this 
state  of  affairs,  and  say  that  they  are  per- 
fectly prepared.  These  are  the  best  war- 
riors in  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  are  now 
allied  with  the  Snake  Indians;  and  it  is 
probable  that  their  combination  would  ex- 
tend itself  to  the  Utahs,  who  have  long  been 
engaged  in  war  against  the  Sioux.  It  is  in 
this  section  of  country  that  my  observation 
formerly  led  me  to  recoLamend  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  military  post. 

The  farther  course  of  our  narrative  will 
give  fuller  and  more  detailed  information 
of  the  present  disposition  of  the  buffalo  in 
the  country  we  visited. 

Among  the  roots  we  obtained  here,  I 
could  distinguish  only  five  or  six  different 
kinds ;  and  the  supply  of  the  Indians  whom 
we  met  consisted  principally  of  yampah, 
{anethum,  graveolens,)  tobacco  root,  {Vale- 
riana,) and  a  large  root  of  a  species  of 
thistle,  (ctrcittm  Virginianum,)  which  now 
is  occasionally  abundant,  and  is  a  very 
agreeably  flavored  vegetable. 

We  had  been  detained  so  long  at  the  vil- 
lage, that  in  tho  afternoon  we  made  only 
4vo  miles,  and  encamped  or.  the  same  river 
tl^Sfti  dixy's  journey  of  19  miles.    The  In- 


dians informed  us  that  we  should  reach  tht 
big  salt  water  after  having  slept  twice  and 
travelling  in  a  south  direction.  The  stream 
had  here  entered  a  nearly  level  plain  or 
valley,  of  good  soil,  eight  or  ten  miles  broad, 
to  which  no  termination  was  to  be  seen, 
and  lying  between  ranges  of  mountains 
which,  on  the  right,  were  grassy  and  smooth, 
unbroken  by  rock,  and  lower  than  on  the 
left,  where  they  were  rocky  and  bald,  in- 
•reasing  in  height  to  the  southward.  On 
the  creek  were  fringes  of  young  willows, 
older  trees  being  rarely  found  on  the  plains, 
where  the  Indians  burn  the  surface  to  pro- 
duce better  grass.  Several  magpies  {pica 
Hudsonica)  were  seen  on  the  creek  this 
afternoon ;  and  a  rattlesnake  was  killed 
here,  the  first  which  had  h<?en  seen  since 
leaving  the  eastern  plains.  Our  camp  to- 
night had  such  a  hungry  appearance,  that  I 
suffered  the  little  cow  to  be  killed,  and  di- 
vided the  roots  and  berries  among  the  peo- 
ple. A  number  of  Indians  from  the  village 
encamped  near. 

The  weather  the  next  morning  was  clear, 
the  thermometer  at  sunrise  at  44^.5,  and, 
continuing  down  the  valley,  in  about  five 
miles  we  followed  the  little  creek  of  our 
encampment  to  its  junction  with  a  larger 
stream,  called  Roseaux,  or  Reed  river.  Im- 
mediately opposite,  on  the  right,  the  range 
was  gathered  into  its  highest  peak,  sloping 
gradually  low,  and  running  off  to  a  point 
apparently  some  forty  or  fifty  miles  below. 
Between  this  (now  become  the  valley  stream) 
and  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  we  journeyed 
along  a  handsome  sloping  level,  which  fre- 
quent springs  from  the  hills  made  occasion- 
ally miry,  and  halted  to  noon  at  a  swampy 
spring,  where  there  were  good  grass  and 
abundant  rushes.  Here  the  river  was  forty 
feet  wide,  with  a  considerable  current ;  and 
the  valley  a  mile  and  a  half  in  breadth  ;  the 
soil  being  generally  good,  of  a  dark  color, 
and  apparently  well  adapted  to  cultivation. 
The  day  had  become  bright  and  pleasant, 
with  the  thermometer  at  71°.  By  observa- 
tion, our  latitude  was  41°  59'  31",  and  the 
elevation  above  the  sea  4,670  feet.  On  our 
leil,  this  afternoon,  the  range  at  long  inter- 
vals formed  itself  into  peaks,  appearing  to 
terminate,  about  forty  miles  below,  in  a 
rocky  cape ;  beyond  which,  several  others 
were  faintly  visible ;  and  we  were  disap- 
pointed when  at  every  little  rise  we  did  not 
see  the  lake.  Towards  evening,  our  way 
was  somewhat  obstructed  by  fields  of  arte- 
misia,  which  began  to  make  their  appear- 
ance here,  and  we  encamped  on  the  Roseaux, 
the  water  of  which  had  acquired  a  decidedly 
salt  taste,  nearly  opposite  to  a  canon  gap  in 
the  mountains,  through  which  the  Bear  river 
enters  this  valley.  As  we  encamped,  tin 
night  set  in  dark  and  cold,  with  heavy  nu ; 


I 


4.^Mp» 


M 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[lea 


.:  1 


and  the  ai  tcmisia,  which  was  here  out  only 
wood,  was  so  wet  that  it  would  not  burn. 
A  poor,  nearly  starved  dag,  with  a  wound 
in  his  side  from  a  ball,  came  to  the  camp, 
and  remained  with  us  until  the  winter,  when 
he  met  a  very  unexpected  fate.    . 

September  1. — ^Tho  morning  was  squally 
and  cold ;  the  sky  scattered  over  with 
clouds ;  and  the  night  had  been  so  uncom- 
fortable,  that  we  were  not  on  the  road  until 
8  o'clock.  Travelling  between  Roseaux 
and  Bear  rivers,  we  continued  to  descend 
the  valley,  which  gradually  expanded,  as  we 
advanced,  into  a  level  plain  of  good  soil, 
about  25  miles  in  breadth,  between  moun- 
tains 3,000  and  4,000  feet  high,  rising  sud- 
denly to  the  clouds,  which  all  day  rested  upon 
the  peaks.  These  gleamed  out  in  the  occa- 
sional sunlight,  mantled  with  the  snow  which 
had  fallen  upon  them,  while  it  rained  on  us 
in  the  valley  below,  of  which  the  elevation 
here  was  ubout  4,500  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  country  before  us  plainly  indicated  that 
we  were  approaching  the  lake,  though,  as 
the  ground  where  we  were  travelling  af- 
forded no  elevated  point,  nothing  of  it  as  yet 
could  be  seen ;  and  at  a  great  distance 
ahead  were  several  isolated  mountains,  re- 
sembling islands,  which  they  were  aAer- 
wards  found  to  be.  On  this  upper  plain  the 
grass  was  everywhere  dead ;  and  among 
the  shrubs  with  whiuh  it  was  almost  exclu- 
sively occupied,  (artemisia  being  the  most 
abundant,)  frequently  occurred  handsome 
clusters  of  several  species  of  dieteria  in 
bloom.  Purshia  tridentata  was  among  the 
frequent  shrubs.  Descending  to  the  bot- 
toms of  Bear  river,  we  found  good  grass  for 
the  animals,  and  encamped  about  300  yards 
above  the  mouth  of  Roseaux,  which  here 
makes  its  junction,  without  communicating 
any  of  its  salty  taste  to  the  main  stream, 
of  which  the  water  remains  perfectly  pure. 
On  the  river  are  only  willow  thickets,(«a/M; 
longifolia,)  and  in  the  bottoms  the  abundant 
plants  are  canes,  solidago,  and  helianthi, 
ud  along  the  banks  of  Roseaux  are  fields 
of  malva  rotundifolia.  At  sunset  the  ther- 
mometer was  at  54<^.5,  and  the  evening 
clear  and  calm ;  but  I  deferred  making  any 
use  of  it  until  1  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
when  I  endeavored  to  obtain  an  emersion 
of  the  first  satellite ;  but  it  was  lost  in  a 
bank  of  clouds,  which  also  rendered  our 
usual  observations  indifferent. 

Among  the  useful  things  which  formed  a 
portion  of  our  equipage,  was  an  India-rub- 
ber boat,  18  feet  long,  made  somewhat  ic 
the  form  of  a  bark  canoe  of  the  northern 
lakes.  The  sides  were  formed  by  two  air- 
tight cylinders,  eighteen  inches  in  diameter, 
connected  with  others  forming  the  bow  and 
•tern.  To  lessen  the  danger  from  accidents 
to  the  boat,  these  were  divided  into  four 


different  com{riirtinent8,  and  the  intorior 
space  was  sufficiently  large  to  contain  five 
or  six  persons  and  a  considerable  weight  of 
baggage.  The  Roseaux  being  too  deep  to 
be  forded,  our  boat  was  filled  with  air,  and 
in  about  one  hour  all  the  equipage  of  the 
camp,  carriage  and  gun  included,  ferried 
across,  Thinking  that  perhaps  in  the  course 
of  the  day  we  might  reach  the  outlet  at  the 
lake,  I  got  into  the  boat  with  Basil  Lajeu- 
nesse,  and  paddled  down  Bear  river,  intend, 
ing  at  night  to  rejoin  the  party,  which  in 
the  mean  time  proceeded  on  its  way.  The 
river  was  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  yards 
broad,  and  the  water  so  deep,  that  even  oi 
the  comparatively  shallow  points  we  coulo 
not  reach  the  bottom  with  15  feet.  On 
either  side  were  alternately  low  bottoms 
and  willow  points,  with  an  occasional  high 
prairie ;  and  for  five  or  six  hours  we  fol- 
lowed slowly  the  winding  course  of  the 
river,  which  crept  along  with  a  sluggish 
current  among  frequent  detours  several 
miles  around,  sometimes  running  for  a  con- 
siderable distance  directly  up  the  valley. 
As  we  were  stealing  quietly  down  the 
stream,  trying  in  vain  to  get  a  shot  at  a 
strange  large  bird  that  was  numerous  among 
the  willows,  but  very  shy,  we  came  unex- 
pectedly upon  several  families  of  Root  Dig- 
gers, who  were  encamped  among  the  rushes 
on  the  shore,  and  appeared  very  busy  about 
several  weirs  or  nets  which  had  been  rude- 
ly made  of  canes  and  rushes  for  the  purpose 
of  catching  fish.  They  were  very  muct° 
startled  at  our  appearance,  but  we  soon  es- 
tablished an  acquaintance ;  and  finding  that 
they  had  some  roots,  I  promised  to  send 
some  men  with  goods  to  trade  with  them 
They  had  the  usual  very  large  heads,  re- 
markable among  the  Digger  tribe,  with  mat 
ted  hair,  and  were  almost  entirely  naked ; 
looking  very  poor  and  miserable,  as  if  their 
lives  had  been  spent  in  the  rushes  where 
they  were,  beyond  which  they  seemed  to 
have  very  little  knowledge  of  any  thing. 
From  the  few  words  we  could  comprehend, 
their  language  was  that  of  the  Snake  In- 
dians. 

Our  boat  moved  so  heavily,  that  we  had 
made  very  little  progress ;  and,  finding  that 
it  would  be  impossible  to  overtake  the  camp, 
as  soon  as  we  were  sufficiently  far  below 
the  Indians,  we  put  to  the  shore  near  a  high 
prairie  bank,  hauled  up  the  boat,  and  cached 
our  effects  in  the  willows.  Ascending  the 
bank,  we  found  that  our  desultory  labor  had 
brought  us  only  a  fbw  miles  in  a  direct  line ; 
and,  going  out  into  the  prairie,  after  a  search 
we  found  the  trail  of  the  camp,  which  was 
now  nowhere  in  sight,  but  had  followed  the 
general  course  of  the  river  in  a  large  circu- 
lar sweep  which  it  makes  at  this  place.  The 
sun  was  about  three  houn  high  whet  «f 


"'ixm 


fisis 

nents,  and   the   interior 

tly  large  to  contain  five 

a  considerable  weiglit  of 

)seaiix  being  too  deep  to 

was  filled  with  air,  and 

all  the  equipage  of  the 

nd  gun  included,  ferried 

that  perhaps  in  the  course 

ht  reach  the  outlet  at  the 

e  boat  with  Basil  Lajeu- 

down  Bear  river,  intend. 

?join  the  party,  which  in 

cecded  on  its  way.     The 

«ty  to  one  hundred  yards 

ter  so  deep,  that  even  oi 

shallow  points  we  coula 

>ttom  with   15  feet.     On 

alternately  low  bottoms 

with  an  occasional  high 

five  or  six  hours  we  fol> 

!  winding  course  of  the 

)t  along  with  a  sluggish 

irequent  detours    several 

letimes  running  for  a  con- 

3  directly  up  the  valley. 

ealing   quietly   down   the 

i  vain  to  get  a  shot  at  a 

that  was  numerous  among 

very  shy,  we  came  unex- 

reral  families  of  Root  Dig- 

ncamped  among  the  rushes 

appeared  very  busy  about 

nets  which  had  been  rude- 

and  rushes  for  the  purpose 

They  were  very  muci" 

ppearance,  but  we  soon  es> 

laintance ;  and  finding  that 

roots,  I  promised  to  send 

;oods  to  trade  with  them 

ual  very  large  heads,  re- 

the  Digger  tribe,  with  mat 

ire  almost  entirely  naked ; 

r  and  miserable,  as  if  their 

spent  in  the  rushes  where 

nd  which  they  seemed  to 

knowledge  of  any  thing. 

ords  we  could  comprehend, 

ras  that  of  the  Snake  In- 

3d  80  heavily,  that  we  had 
progress ;  and,  finding  that 
ssible  to  overtake  the  camp, 
were  sufficiently  far  below 
)ut  to  the  shore  near  a  high 
lied  up  the  boat,  and  cached 
3  willows.  Ascending  the 
that  our  desultory  labor  had 
31  few  miles  in  a  direct  line ; 
to  the  prairie,  after  a  search 
lil  of  the  camp,  which  was 
sight,  but  had  followed  the 
f  the  river  in  a  large  circu- 
it makes  at  this  place.  The 
hree  hours  high  whei  wi 


18431 


CAPT.  FRK.MONT'S  NAHR ATIVF.. 


M 


(bund  the  trail ;  and  as  our  people  had  pass- 
ed early  in  the  day,  we  had  the  prospect  of 
a  vigorous  walk  before  us.  Immediately 
where  we  landed,  the  high  arable  plain  on 
which  we  had  been  travelling  for  several 
days  past  terminated^n  extensive  low  flats, 
very  generally  occupied  by  salt  marshes,  or 
beds  uf  shallow  lakes,  whence  the  water 
had  in  most  places  evaporated,  leaving  their 
hard  surface  encrusted  with  a  shining  white 
residuum,  and  absolutely  cpvered  with  very 
■mall  univalve  shells.  As  we  advanced,  the 
whole  country  around  us  assumed  this  ap- 
pearance ;  and  there  was  no  other  vegeta- 
tion than  the  shrubby  chenopodiaceous  and 
other  apparently  saline  plants,  which  were 
confined  to  the  rising  grounds.  Here  and 
there  on  the  river  bank,  which  was  raised 
like  a  levee  above  the  flats  through  which 
it  ran,  was  a  narrow  border  of  grass  and 
short  black-burnt  willows ;  the  stream  being 
very  deep  and  sluggish,  and  sometimes  600 
to  800  feet  wide.  After  a  rapid  walk  of 
about  15  miles,  we  caught  sight  of  the  canp 
fires  among  clumps  of  willows  just  as  the 
sun  had  sank  behind  the  mountains  on  the 
west  side  uf  the  valley,  filhng  the  clear  sky 
with  a  golden  yellow.  These  last  rays,  to 
us  so  precious,  could  not  have  revealed  a 
more  welcome  sight.  To  the  traveller  and 
the  hunter,  a  camp  fire  in  the  lonely  wilder- 
ness is  always  cheering ;  and  to  ourselves, 
in  our  present  situation,  after  a  hard  march 
in  a  region  of  novelty,  approaching  the  de- 
bouches of  a  river,  in  a  lake  of  almost  fabu- 
lous reputstion,  it  was  doubly  so.  A  plen- 
tiful supper  of  aquatic  birds,  and  the  inter- 
est of  tho  scene,  soon  dissipated  fatigue ; 
and  I  obtkined  during  the  night  emersions 
of  the  second,  third,  and  fourth  satellites  of 
Jupiter,  with  obaervations  for  time  and  lati- 
tude. 

September  3. — The  morning  was  clear, 
with  a  light  air  from  the  north,  and  the 
thermometer  at  sunrise  at  45°. 5.  At  3  in 
the  morning,  Basil  was  sent  back  with  sev- 
eral men  and  horses  for  the  boat,  which,  in 
a  direct  course  across  the  flats,  was  not  10 
miles  distant;  and  in  the  mean  time  there 
was  a  pretty  spot  of  grass  here  for  the 
animals.  The  ground  was  so  low  that  we 
could  not  get  high  enough  to  see  across  the 
river,  on  account  of  the  willows ;  but  we 
were  evidently  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lake, 
and  the  water  fowl  made  this  morning  a 
noise  like  thunder.  A  pelican  (pelecanus 
onocrotalus)  was  killed  as  he  passed  by,  and 
many  geese  and  ducks  flew  over  the  camp. 
On  the  dry  salt  marsh  here,  is  scarce  any 
other  plant  than  salicomia  herbacea. 

In  the  aflernoon  the  men  returned  with 
the  boat,  bringing  with  them  a  small  quan- 
tity of  roots,  and  some  meat,  which  the 
Indians  haii  told  them  was  bear  meat. 


DescendinR  the  river  fr.r  tbout  three  miles 
in  the  afternoon,  we  found  a  bar  to  any 
further  travelling  in  that  direction — the 
stream  being  spread  out  in  several  branches, 
and  covering  the  low  grounds  with  water, 
where  the  uiiry  nature  of  the  bottom  did 
not  permit  any  further  advance.  We  were 
evidently  on  the  border  of  the  lake,  al> 
though  the  rushes  and  canes  which  covered 
the  marshes  prevented  any  view ;  and  we 
accordingly  encamped  at  the  little  delta 
which  forms  the  mouth  of  Bear  river ;  a 
long  arm  of  the  lake  stretching  up  to  the 
north  between  us  and  the  opposite  moun- 
tains. The  river  was  bordered  with  a 
fringe  of  willows  and  canes,  among  which 
were  interspersed  a  few  plants ;  and  scat- 
tered about  on  the  marsh  was  a  npecies  of 
uniola,  closely  allied  to  U.  spica-a  of  our 
sea  coast.  The  whole  morass  was  ani- 
mated with  multitudes  of  water  fowl,  which 
appeared  to  be  very  wild — rising  for  the 
space  of  a  mile  round  about  at  the  sound  of 
a  gun,  with  a  noise  like  distant  thunder. 
Several  of  the  people  waded  out  into  the 
marshes,  and  we  had  to-night  a  delicious 
supper  of  ducks,  geese,  and  plover. 

Although  the  moon  was  bright,  the  night 
was  otherwise  favorable ;  and  I  obtained 
this  evening  an  emersion  of  the  first  satel- 
lite, with  the  ubual  observations.  A  mean 
result,  depending  on  various  observations 
made  during  our  stay  in  the  neighborhood, 
places  the  mouth  of  the  river  in  longitude 
112°  10'  30"  west  from  Greenwich;  lati- 
tude 41°  30'  22";  and,  according  to  the 
barometer,  in  elevation  4,200  feet  above  the 
gulf  of  Mexico.  'The  night  was  clear,  with 
considerable  dew„  which  I  had  remarked 
every  night  since  the  first  of  September. 
The  next  morning,  while  we  were  prepar- 
ing to  start,  Carson  rode  into  the  camp  with 
flour  and  a  few  other  articles  of  light  pro- 
vision, sufficient  for  two  or  three  days — a 
scanty  but  very  acceptable  supply.  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick  had  not  yet  arrived,  and  pro- 
visions were  very  scarce,  and  difficult  to  be 
had  at  Fort  Hall,  which  had  been  entirely 
exhausted  by  the  necessities  of  the  emi- 
grants. He  brought  me  also  a  letter  from 
Mr.  Dwight,  who,  in  company  with  several 
emigrants,  had  reached  thiit  place  in  ad- 
vance of  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  and  was  about 
continuing  his  journey  to  Vancouver. 

Returning  about  five  miles  up  the  river, 
we  were  occupied  until  nearly  sunset  in 
crossing  to  the  left  bank — the  stream,  which 
in  the  last  five  or  six  miles  of  its  course  is 
very  much  narrower  than  above,  being  very 
deep  immediately  at  the  banks;  and  we 
had  great  difficulty  in  getting  our  animals 
over.  The  people  with  the  baggage  were 
easily  crossed  in  the  boat,  and  we  8ncsii»> 
ed  on  the  left  bank  where  we  oroased  tM 


I 


CAPT.  FREMONTS  NARRATIVE. 


184S 


riTer.  At  sunset  the  thermometer  waa  at 
76°,  and  there  was  some  rain  during  the 
night,  with  a  thunder  storm  at  a  distance. 

September  6. — Before  us  was  evidently 
the  bed  of  the  lake,  being  a  great  salt  marsh, 
perfectly  level  and  bare,  whitened  in  places 
by  Balin«  efflorescences,  with  here  and  there 
a  pool  of  water,  and  having  the  appearance 
of  a  very  level  sea  shore  at  low  tide.  Im- 
mediately along  the  river  waa  a  very  nar- 
row  strip  of  vegetation,  consisting  of  wil- 
lows, helianthi,  roses,  flowering  vines,  and 
grass ;  bordered  on  the  verge  of  the  great 
marsh  by  a  fringe  of  singular  plants,  which 
appear  to  be  a  shrubby  salicornia,  or  a 
genus  allied  to  it. 

About  13  miles  to  the  southward  vras  one 
of  those  isolated  mountains,  now  appearmg 
to  be  a  kind  of  peninsula  ,  and  towards  this 
we  accordingly  directed  our  course,  as  it 
probably  afforded  a  good  view  of  the  lake  ; 
but  the  deepening  mud  as  we  advanced 
forced  us  to  return  toward  the  river,  and 
gain  the  higher  ground  at  the  foot  of  the 
eastern  mountains.  Here  we  halted  for  a 
few  minutes  at  noon,  on  a  beautiful  little 
stream  of  pure  and  remarkably  clear  water, 
with  a  bed  of  rock  m  situ,  on  which  was  an 
abundant  water  plant  with  a  white  blossom. 
There  was  good  grass  in  the  bottoms ;  and, 
amidst  a  rather  luxuriant  growth,  its  banks 
were  bordered  with  a  large  showy  plant, 
{eupatorium  purpureum,)  which  I  here  saw 
for  the  first  time.  We  named  the  stream 
Clear  creek. 

We  rontinued  our  way  along  the  moun- 
tain, having  found  here  a  broad  plainly 
beaten  trail,  over  what  was  apparently  the 
shore  of  the  lake  in  the  spring ;  the  ground 
being  high  and  firm,  and  the  soil  excellent 
and  covered  with  vegetation,  among  which 
a  leguminous  plant  (glycyrrhiza  lepidota) 
wart  a  characteristic  plant.  The  ridge  here 
rises  abruptly  to  the  height  of  about  4,000 
feet  \  its  face  being  very  prominently  mark- 
ed with  a  massive  stratum  of  rose-colored 
granular  quartz,  which  is  evidently  an  al- 
tered sedimentary  rock ;  the  lines  of  de- 
position being  very  distinct.  It  is  rocky 
and  steep ;  divided  into  several  mountains ; 
and  the  rain  in  the  valley  appears  to  be  al- 
ways snow  on  their  summits  at  this  aeasoD. 
Near  a  remarkable  rocky  point  of  the 
mountain,  at  a  large  spring  of  pure  water, 
were  several  hackberry  trees,  (celtit,)  prob- 
ably a  n<-w  species,  the  herr'ts  still  green ; 
and  a  tiort  distance  farther,  thickets  of 
sumach,  'ikus.) 

On  the  plain  here  I  noticed  blackbirds 
and  grouse.  In  about  seven  miles  from 
Clear  creew,  the  trail  brought  us  tu  a  plaae 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  where  there 
iaaoed  >vilh  coniiderable  force  ten  or  twelve 
hot  spiings.  highly  impregnated  with  salt. 


In  one  of  these,  the  thermometer  stood  at 
136'^,  and  in  another  at  133^. 5 ;  and  the 
water,  which  spread  in  pools  over  the  low 
ground,  was  colored  red.* 

At  this  place  the  trail  we  had  been  follow- 
ing tumea  to  the  lell,  apparently  with  the 
view  of  entering  a  gorge  in  the  mountain, 
from  which  issued  the  principal  fork  of  a 
large  and  comparatively  well-timbered 
stream,  called  Weber's  fork.  We  accord- 
ingly turned  off  .towards  the  lake,  and  en- 
camped on  this  river,  which  was  100  to  IfiO 
feet  wide,  with  high  banks,  and  very  clear 
pure  water,  without  the  slightest  indication 
of  salt. 

September  6. — Leaving  the  encampment 
early,  we  again  directed  our  course  tor  the 
peninsular  butte  across  a  low  shrubby  plain, 
crossing  in  the  way  a  slough-like  creek  with 
miry  ^nks,  and  wooded  with  thickets  of 
thorn  (crat(ceus)  which  were  loaded  with 
berries.  This  time  we  reached  the  butte 
without  any  difficulty,  and,  ascending  to  the 
summit,  immediately  at  our  feet  beheld  the 
object  of  our  anxious  search — the  waters  of 
the  Inland  Sea,  stretching  in  still  and  soli- 
tary grandeur  far  beyond  the  limit  of  our 
vision.  It  was  one  of  the  great  points  of  tSie 
exploration ;  and  as  we  looked  eagerly  over 
the  lake  in  the  first  emotions  of  excited  plea- 
sure, I  am  doubtful  if  the  followers  of  Balboa 
felt  more  enthusiasm  when,  from  the  heights 
of  the  Andes,  they  saw  for  the  first  time  the 
great  Western  ocean.  It  was  certainly  a 
magnificent  object,  and  a  noble  terminus  to 
this  part  of  our  expedition ;  and  to  travellers 
so  long  shut  up  among  mountain  ranges,  a 
sudden  view  over  the  expanse  of  silent 
waters  had  in  it  something  sublime.  Sever- 
al <brge  islands  raised  their  high  rocky  heads 
out  of  the  waves ;  but  whether  or  not  they 
were  timbered,  was  still  left  to  our  imaginar 
tion,  as  the  distance  was  too  great  to  deter- 
mine if  the  dark  hues  upon  them  were  wood- 
land or  naked  rock.  During  the  day  the 
clouds  had  been  gathering  black  over  the 
mountains  to  the  westwara,  and,  while  we 
were  looking,  a  storm  burst  down  with  sud- 
den fury  upon  the  lake,  and  entirely  hid  the 
islands  from  our  view.  So  far  as  we  could 
see,  along  the  shores  there  waa  not  a  soli* 

*  An  analysis  of  the  red  earthy  matter  de- 
posited in  the  bed  of  the  stream  firom  the  q>ringS| 
gives  the  following  result : 

Peroxide  of  iron     ....    33.50 

Carbonate  of  magnesia  .  .        .      3.40 

Carbonate  of  lime .  .             50.43 

Hulohate  of  iime             .  9.00 

Chloride  of  todlnm         .  8.46 

Silica  and  alumina         .  3<00 

Water  and  kM      .       .  .6.39 

lOftOO 


•■'  "    "■•■''    "'■'-■  '-■  Li^v^- 


%»' 


1S4S 

thermometer  atood  at 
er  at  1330.5 ;  and  the 
1  in  pools  over  the  low 

red.* 

trail  we  had  been  follow- 
>it,  apparently  with  the 
gorge  in  the  mountain, 
the  principal  fork  of  a 
iratively  well-timbered 
er's  fork.  We  accord> 
ivards  the  lake,  and  en- 
which  was  100  to  150 

banks,  and  very  clear 

tlie  slightest  indication 

eaving  the  encampment 

ected  our  course  for  the 
OSS  a  low  shrubby  plain, 

a  slough-like  creek  with 
vooded  with  thickets  of 
vhich  were  loaded  with 
we  reached  the  butte 
ty,  and,  ascending  to  the 
ly  at  our  feet  beheld  the 
us  search — the  waters  of 
etching  in  still  and  soli- 
beyond  the  limit  of  our 

of  the  great  points  of  tiM 
8  we  looked  eagerly  over 

emotions  of  excited  plea- 
if  the  followers  of  Balboa 
m  when,  from  the  heights 
saw  for  the  first  time  the 
ran.    It  was  certainly  a 

and  a  noble  terminus  to 
•edition ;  and  to  travellers 
long  mountain  ranges,  a 

the  expanse  of  silent 
mething  sublime.  8e  ver- 
sed their  high  rocky  heads 

but  whether  or  not  they 
s  still  left  to  our  imagina- 
:e  was  too  great  to  deter- 
les  upon  them  were  wood- 
k.  During  the  day  the 
jratherine  black  over  the 
nreatwara,  and,  while  we 
>rm  burst  down  with  sud- 
lake,  and  entirely  hid  the 
ew.  So  far  as  we  could 
tres  there  was  not  a  soli- 

the  red  earthy  matter  d«- 
the  stream  from  the  ipringsi 
Niult: 


•            •            • 

.    33.50 

nesia  .       . 

.      3.40 

•       •       t 

50.43 

8.00 

1 

3.45 

1 

S.0O 

•             * 

.    sjsa 

10(M)0 


I84S.1 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


VT 


taiy  tree,  and  but  little  appearance  of  grass ; 
and  on  VVeber'a  fork,  a  few  miles  below  our 
last  encampment,  the  timber  was  gathered 
into  groves,  and  then  disappeared  entirely. 
As  this  appeared  to  be  the  nearest  point  to 
the  lake  where  a  suitable  camp  could  be 
found,  wo  directed  our  course  to  one  of  the 
groves,  whore  we  found  a  handsome  en- 
campment, with  good  grass  and  an  abun- 
dance of  rushes  {equiselum  hyemale).  At 
sunset,  the  thermometer  was  at  65°;  the 
evening  clear  and  calm,  with  some  cumuli. 

September  7. — The  morning  was  calm  and 
clear,  with  a  temperature  at  sunrise  of  39°.5. 
The  day  was  spent  in  active  preparation  for 
our  intended  voyage  on  the  lake.  On  the 
edge  of  the  stream  a  favorable  spot  was  se- 
lected in  a  grove,  and,  felling  the  timber,  we 
made  a  strong  coral,  or  horse  pen,  for  the 
animals,  and  a  little  fort  for  the  people  who 
were  to  remain.  We  were  now  probably  in 
the  country  of  the  Utah  Indians,  though  none 
reside  upn  the  lake.  The  India-rubber  Lx>at 
was  repaired  with  prepared  cloth  and  gum, 
and  filled  with  air,  in  readiness  for  the  next 
day. 

The  provisions  which  Carson  had  brought 
with  him  being  now  exhausted,  and  our 
4tock  reduced  to  a  small  quantity  of  roots,  I 
determined  to  retain  with  me  only  a  suffi- 
cient number  of  men  for  the  execution  of 
our  design;  and  accordingly  seven  were 
sent  back  to  Fort  Hall,  under  the  guidance 
of  Franfois  Lajeunesse,  who,  having  been 
for  many  vears  a  trapper  in  the  country,  was 
considered  an  experienced  mountaineer. 
Though  they  were  provided  with  good  hor- 
ses, and  the  road  was  a  remarkably  plain 
one  of  only  four  days'  journey  for  a  horse- 
man, they  became  bewildered  (as  we  after- 
wards learned),  and,  losing  their  way,  wan- 
dered about  the  country  in  parties  of  one  or 
<wo,  reaching  the  fort  about  a  week  after- 
wurds.  Some  straggled  in  of  themselves, 
and  the  others  were  brought  in  by  Indians 
who  had  picked  them  up  on  Snake  river, 
about  sixty  miles  below  me  fort,  travelling 
alonff  the  emigrant  road  in  full  march  for 
the  Lower  Columbia.  The  leader  of  this 
adventurous  party  was  Francois. 

Hourly  barometrical  observations  were 
made  during  the  day,  and,  after  departure  of 
tke  party  for  Fort  Hall,  we  occupied  our- 
selves in  continuing  our  little  preparations, 
and  in  becoming  acquainted  with  the  conn- 
try  in  the  vicinity.  The  bottoms  along  the 
river  were  timbered  with  several  kinds  of 
willow,  hawthorn,  and  fine  cotton-wood  trees 
(popuiut  eanadenaii)  with  remarkably  large 
leaves,  and  sixty  feet  in  heig'it  by  measnre- 


We  formed  now  but  a  small  &mily. 
Witk  Mr.  Preuss  and  myself,  Carson,  Ber- 
•iar,  and  Basil  Lajeunesse,  had  been  select- 


ed for  tlio  boat  expedition — tho  first  ewr  at* 
tempted  on  this  interior  sea ;  and  Badeau, 
with  Derosier,  aiu  Jacob  (the  colored  man), 
were  to  be  left  in  charge  of  tiie  camp.  We 
were  favored  with  most  delightful  weather. 
To-night  there  was  a  brilliant  simset  of 
golden  orange  and  green,  which  left  the 
western  sky  clear  and  beautifully  pure ;  but 
clouds  in  the  east  made  mo  lose  an  occulta- 
tion.  The  summer  frogs  were  singing 
urouiid  us,  and  the  evening  was  very  plea- 
sant, with  a  temperature  of  COo — a  night  of 
a  more  southern  autumn.  For  our  supper 
we  had  yampah,  the  most  agreeably  flavored 
of  the  roots,  seasoned  by  a  small  fat  duck, 
which  had  come  in  the  way  of  Jacob's  rifle. 
Around  our  fire  to-night  were  many  specu- 
lations on  what  to-morrow  would  bring  forth, 
and  in  our  busy  conjectures  we  fancied  that 
we  should  find  every  one  of  the  large  islands 
a  tangled  wilderness  of  trees  and  shrubbery, 
teeming  with  game  of  every  description  that 
the  neighboring  region  aflbrded,  and  which 
the  foot  of  a  white  man  or  Indian  had  never 
violated.  Frequently,  during  the  day,  clouds 
had  rested  on  the  summits  of  their  lolly 
mountains,  and  we  believed  that  we  should 
find  clear  streams  and  springs  of  fresh  water ; 
and  we  indulged  in  anticipations  of  tho  lux- 
urious repasts  with  which  we  were  to  in- 
demnify ourselves  for  past  privations. 
Neither,  in  our  discussions,  were  the  whirl- 
pool and  other  mysterious  dangers  forgotten, 
which  Indian  and  hunter's  stories  attributed 
to  this  unexplored  lake.  The  men  had  dis- 
covered that,  instead  of  being  strongly  sewed 
(like  that  of  the  preceding  year,  which  had 
so  triumphantly  rode  the  cafions  of  the  Up- 
per Great  Platte),  our  present  boat  was  only 
pasted  together  in  a  very  insecure  manner, 
the  maker  having  been  allowed  so  little  time 
in  tlie  construction,  that  he  was  obliged  to 
crowd  the  labor  of  two  months  into  several 
days.  The  insecurity  of  the  boat  was  sensi- 
bly felt  by  us ;  and,  mingled  with  the  enthu- 
siasm and  excitement  that  we  all  felt  at  the 
prospect  of  an  undertaking  which  had  never 
before  been  accomplished,  was  a  certain  im- 
pression of  danger,  sufficient  to  give  a  seri- 
ous character  to  our  conversation.  The 
momentary  view  which  had  been  had  of  th« 
lake  the  day  before,  its  great  extent  and  rug- 
ged islands,  dimly  seen  amidst  the  dark 
waters  in  the  obscurity  of  the  sudden  storm, 
were  well  cdctilated  to  heighten  the  idea  of 
undefined  danger  with  which  the  lake  was 
genendly  associated. 

September  8. — A  calin,  clear  day,  with  a 
sunrise  temperature  of  410.  In  view  of  oar 
present  enterprise,  a  part  of  the  equipment 
of  the  boat  had  been  made  to  consist  in  three 
air-tight  bags,  about  three  feet  long,  and  ca- 

Eable  each  of  .containing  five  gallons.    These 
ad  been  filled  with  water  &b  night  befonk 


■1 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[184S. 


r3  r- 


I* 


and  were  now  placed  in  the  boat,  with  our 
blankets  and  instruments,  consisting  of  a 
sextant,  telescope,  spy-glass,  thermometer, 
and  barometer. 

We  lefl  the  camp  at  sunrise,  and  had  a 
very  pleasant  voyage  down  the  river,  in 
which  there  was  generally  eight  or  ten  feet 
of  water,  deepening  as  we  neared  the  mouth 
in  the  latter  part  of  the  day.  In  the  course 
of  the  morning  we  discovered  that  two  of  the 
cylinders  leaked  so  much  as  to  require.one 
man  constantly  at  the  bellows,  to  keep  them 
sufBcienlly  full  of  air  to  support  the  boat. 
Although  we  had  made  a  very  early  start, 
we  loitered  so  much  on  the  wa^— stopping 
every  now  and  then,  and  floating  silently 
along,  to  get  a  shot  at  a  goose  or  a  duck — 
that  It  was  late  in  the  day  when  we  reached 
the  outlet.  The  river  here  divided  into 
several  branches,  filled  with  fluvials,  and  so 
very  shalk  w  that  it  was  with  difficulty  we 
could  ^et  the  boat  along,  being  obliged  to  get 
out  and  wade.  We  encamped  on  a  low 
point  among  rushes  and  young  willows, 
where  there  was  a  quantity  of  drill  wood, 
which  served  for  our  fires.  The  evening 
was  mild  and  clear;  we  made  a  pleasant 
bed  of  the  young  willows ;  and  geese  and 
ducks  enough  had  been  killed  for  an  abun- 
dant supper  at  nisht,  and  for  breakfast  the 
next  morning.  The  stillness  of  the  night 
was  enlivened  by  millions  of  water  fowl. 
Latitude  (by  observation)  41^  IT  26' ;  and 
longitude  112°  11'  30" 

Seplember  9. — The  day  was  clear  and 
calm;  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  at  49°. 
As  is  usual  with  the  trappers  on  the  eve  of 
any  enterprise,  our  people  had  made  dreams, 
and  theirs  happened  to  be  a  bad  one — one 
which  always  preceded  evil — and  conse- 
quently they  looked  very  gloomy  this  morn- 
ing ;  but  we  hurried  through  our  breakfast, 
in. order  to  make  an  early  start,  and  have  all 
the  day  before  us  for  our  adventure.  The 
channel  in  a  short  distance  became  so  shal- 
low that  our  navigation  was  at  an  end,  be- 
ing merely  a  sheet  of  soft  mud,  with  a  few 
inches  of  water,  and  sometimes  none  at  all, 
forming  the  low-water  shore  of  the  lake. 
All  this  place  was  absolutely  covered  with 
flocks  of  screaming  plover.  We  took  off 
our  clothes,  and,  getting  overboard,  com- 
menced dragging  the  boat — making,  by  this 
operation,  a  very  curious  trail,  and  a  very 
disagreeable  smell  in  stirring  up  the  mud,  as 
we  sank  above  the  knee  at  every  step.  The 
water  here  was  still  fresh,  with  only  an  in- 
sipid and  disagreeable  taste,  probably  de- 
rived from  the  bed  of  fetid  mud.  After  pro- 
ceeding in  this  way  about  a  mile,  w  came  to 
a  Bmall  black  ridge  on  the  bottom,  beyond 
which  the  water  Became  suddenly  salt,  be- 
ginning nadually  to  deepen,  and  the  bt^tom 
Mumy  and  nrm.    It  was  a  remarkable 


division,  separating  the  fresh  waters  of  th«' 
rivers  from  the  briny  water  of  the  lake, 
which  was  entirely  mturaied  with  common 
salt.  Pushing  our  little  vessel  across  the 
narrow  boundary,  we  sprang  on  l)oard,  and 
at  length  were  afloat  on  the  waters  of  the 
unknown  sea. 

We  did  not  steer  for  the  mountainous 
islands,  but  directed  our  course  towards  a 
lower  one,  which  it  had  been  decided  we 
should  first  visit,  the  summit  of  which  waa 
formed  like  the  crater  at  ihe  upper  end  of 
Dear  river  valley.  So  long  as  wo  could 
touch  the  bottom  with  our  paddlpR,  we  were 
very  gay ;  but  gradually,  as  the  water  deep- 
ened, we  became  more  still  in  our  frail  ba- 
teau of  gum  cloth  distended  with  nir,  and 
with  pasted  seams.  Although  the  day  was 
very  calm,  there  was  a  considerable  swell  on 
the  lake ;  and  there  were  white  patches  of 
foam  on  the  surface,  which  were  slowly 
moving  to  the  southward,  indicating  the  set 
of  a  current  in  that  direction,  and  recalling 
the  recollection  of  the  whirlpool  stories.  The 
water  continued  to  deepen  as  we  advanced ; 
the  lake  becoming  almost  transparently 
clear,  of  an  extremely  beautiful  bright-green 
color;  and  the  spray,  which  was  thrown 
into  the  boat  and  over  our  clothes,  was  di- 
rectly converted  into  a  crust  of  common  salt, 
which  covered  also  our  hands  and  arms. 
"  Captain,"  said  Carson,  who  for  some  time 
had  been  looking  suspiciously  at  some  whit- 
ening appearances  outside  the  nearest 
islands,  "what  are  those  yonder? — won't 
you  just  take  a  look  with  the  glass  ?"  We 
ceased  paddling  for  a  moment,  and  found 
them  to  be  the  caps  of  the  waves  that  were 
beginning  to  break  under  the  force  of  a 
strong  breeze  that  was  coming  up  the  lake. 

The  form  of  the  boat  seemed  to  be  an  ad- 
mirable one,  and  it  rode  on  the  waves  like  a 
water  bird ;  but,  at  tha  same  time,  it  was 
extremely  slow  in  its  progress.  When  we 
were  a  little  more  than  half  way  across  the 
reach,  two  of  the  divisions  between  the  cyl- 
inders gave  way,  and  it  required  the  con- 
stant  use  of  the  bellows  to  keep  in  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  air.  For  a  long  time  we 
scarcelv  seemed  to  approach  our  island,  Irat 
gradually  we  worked  across  the  rougher  sea 
of  the  open  channel,  into  the  smoother  water 
under  the  lee  of  the  island ;  and  began  to 
discover  that  what  we  took  for  a  long  row 
of  pelicans,  ranged  on  the  beach,  were  only 
low  cliflk  whitened  with  salt  by  the  spray  of 
the  waves ;  and  about  noon  we  reached  tho 
shore,  the  transparency  of  the  water  enabling 
US  to  see  the  bottom  at  a  considerable  depth. 
It  was  a  handsome  broad  beach  where  we 
landed,  behind  which  the  hill,  into  which 
the  island  was  gathered,  rose  somewhat  ab- 
ruptly ;  and  a  point  of  rock  at  one  end  en- 
closed it  in  a  sheltering  way ;  and  as  then 


>iiip> 


\  -^ 


[1848. 

tlic  fresh  watprs  of  the 
)riiiy  water  of  the  lake, 
saturated  witli  common 
little  vessel  acroBM  the 
we  spranp  on  Imard,  and 
)at  on  the  waters  of  the 

er  for  the  monntainous 
>d  our  course  towards  a 
it  had  been  decided  we 
he  summit  of  which  waa 
atcr  at  the  upper  end  of 

So  ]on(c  as  we  coald 
trith  our  paddles,  we  were 
dually,  as  the  water  deep- 
more  still  in  our  frail  ba- 
I  distended  with  air,  and 

Although  the  day  was 
IB  a  considerable  Rwell  on 
re  were  white  patches  of 
Face,  which  were  slowly 
thward,  indicating  the  set 
It  direction,  and  recalling 
the  whirlpool  stories.  The 
I  deepen  as  we  advanced ; 
nff  almost  transparently 
leiy  beautiful  bright-green 
prav,  which  was  thrown 
over  onr  clothes,  was  di- 
ito  a  ci'ust  of  common  ^alt, 
so  our  hands  and  arms, 
arson,  who  for  some  tim? 
suspiciously  at  some  \vhit> 
es  outside  the  nearest 
re  those  yonder? — won't 
ok  with  the  glass  ?"  We 
for  a  moment,  and  found 
ps  of  the  waves  that  were 
ak  under  the  force  of  a 
t  was  coming  up  the  lake. 
i  boat  seemed  to  be  an  ad* 
t  rode  on  the  waves  like  a 
at  thtf  same  time,  it  waa 
its  progress.  When  we 
than  half  way  across  the 
divisions  between  the  cyl* 
and  it  required  the  con- 
bellows  to  keep  in  a  Buffi- 
air.  For  a  long  time  we 
0  approach  our  island,  Irat 
(ed  across  the  rougher  sea 
el,  into  the  smoother  water 
the  island ;  and  began  to 
it  we  took  for  a  long  row 
d  on  the  beach,  were  only 
d  with  salt  by  the  spray  of 
bout  noon  we  readied  tho 
rency  of  the  water  enabling 
)m  at  a  considerable  depth. 
)me  broad  beach  where  we 
hich  the  hill,  into  which 
ithered,  rose  somewhat  ab- 
int  of  rock  at  one  end  en- 
iltering  way ;  and  as  tbew 


1843. 


(.'APT.  FKD.MON'I'S  NAI{|{.\'I'IVE. 


89 


was  an  abundance  of  drift  wood  nlf)ng  tho 
shore,  it  olTorrd  us  a  pleasant  encanipment. 
Wo  did  not  Buffer  our  fragile  boat  to  touch 
the  sharp  rocks  ;  but,  getting  overboard,  dis- 
charged the  baggage,  and,  lifting  it  gently 
out  of  the  water,  carried  it  to  tho  upper  part 
of  the  be.vch,  wliich  was  composed  of  very 
email  fragments  of  rock. 

Among  the  successive  banks  of  the  Iwach, 
formed  by  tho  action  of  tho  waves,  our  atten- 
tion, as  we  approached  the  island,  had  been 
Mtracted  by  one  10  to  20  feet  in  breadth,  of 
a  dark-brown  color.  Being  more  closely 
e.xamined,  this  was  found  to  be  composed, 
to  the  depth  of  seven  or  eight  and  twelve 
inches,  entirely  of  tho  larva:  of  insects,  or, 
in  common  language,  of  the  skins  of  worms, 
about  the  size  of  a  grain  of  oats,  which  had 
been  washed  up  by  tho  waters  of  tho  lake. 

Alluding  to  this  subject  some  months  af- 
terwards, when  travelling  through  a  more 
touthem  portion  of  this  region,  in  company 
with  Mr.  Joseph  Walker,  an  old  hunter,  I 
was  informed  by  him,  that,  wandering  with 
a  party  of  men  m  a  mountain  country  east 
of  the  great  Califomian  range,  he  surprised 
a  party  of  several  Indian  families  encamped 
near  a  small  salt  lake,  who  abandoned  their 
lodges  at  his  approach,  leaving  everything  be- 
hind them.  Being  in  a  starving  condition, 
they  were  delighted  to  find  in  the  abandoned 
lodges  a  number  of  skin  bags  containing  a 
quantity  of  what  appeared  to  be  fish,  dried 
and  pounded.  On  this  they  made  a  hearty 
supper:  and  were  gathering  around  an 
abundant  breakfast  the  next  morning,  when 
Mr.  Walker  discovered  that  it  was  with 
these,  or  a  similar  worm,  that  the  bags  had 
been  filled.  The  stomachs  of  the  stout  trap- 
pers were  not  proof  against  their  prejudices, 
and  the  repulsive  food  was  suddenly  reject- 
ed. Mr.  Walker  had  further  opportunities  of 
seeing  these  worms  used  as  an  article  of  food; 
and  I  am  inclined  to  think  they  are  the  same 
as  those  we  saw,  and  appear  to  be  a  product 
of  the  salt  lakes.  It  mav  be  well  to  recall 
to  your  mind  that  Mr.  Walker  was  associ- 
ated with  Captain  Bonneville  in  his  expedi- 
tion to  the  Rocky  mountains ;  and  has  since 
that  time  remained  in  the  country,  generally 
residing  in  some  one  of  the  Snake  villages, 
when  not  engaged  in  one  of  his  numerous 
trapping  expeditions,  in  which  he  is  cele- 
brated as  one  of  the  best  and  bravest  leaders 
who  have  ever  been  in  the  country. 

The  cli£fs  and  masses  of  rock  along  the 
shore  were  whitened  by  an  incrustation  of 
salt  where  the  waves  dashed  up  against 
them ;  and  the  evaporating  water,  which  had 
been  left  in  holes  and  hollows  on  the  surface 
of  the  rocks,  was  covered  with  a  crust  of  salt 
about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  It 
appeared  strange  that,  in  the  midst  of  this 
gTud  raservoir,  uoe  of  our  greatest  wants 


lately  had  been  salt.  R.xposed  to  be  more 
perfectly  dried  in  the  sun,  this  herame  very 
white  and  fine,  having  the  usual  flavor  of 
very  excellent  common  salt,  witlinut  any  for- 
eign taste;  but  only  a  little  was  collcrled  for 
present  use,  ns  there  was  in  it  a  numU'r  of 
small  black  insects. 

Carrying  with  us  the  barometer,  and  other 
in.struments,  in  the  afternoon  we  a«con'Ied  to 
the  highest  point  of  the  island — a  bare  rocky 
peak,  800  feet  above  the  lake.     Standing  on 
tho  summit,  we  enjoyed  an  extended  view  of 
the  lake,  enclosed  in  a  basin  of  rugged  moun- 
tains, which  sometimes  left  marshy  tlat.«i  and 
extensive   bottoms  between    tliem  and    the 
shore,  and  in  other  places  came  directly  down 
into  the  water  with  iwld  and  precipitous  bluffs. 
Following  with  our  glasses  the   irregular 
shores,  we  searched  for  some  indications  of 
a  communication'^with  other  bodies  of  water, 
or  the  entrance  of  other  rivers  ;  but  the  dis- 
tance was  so  great  that  we  could  make  out 
nothing  with  certainty.     To  the  southward, 
several  peninsular  mountains,  3,000  or  t, 000 
feet  hign,  entered  the  lake,  appearing,  so  far 
as  the  distance  and  our  position  enabled  us 
to  determine,  to  be  connected  by  flats  and 
low  ridges  with  the  mountains  in  the  rear. 
These  are  probably  tho  islands  usually  indi- 
cated on  maps  of  this  region  as  entirely  de- 
tached from  the  shore.    The  season  of  our 
operations  was  when  the  waters  were  at 
their  lowest  stage.    At  the  season  of  high 
waters  in  the  spring,  it  is  probable  that  the 
marshes  and  low  grounds  are  overflowed,  and 
the  Burtace  of  the  lake  considerably  greater. 
In  several  places  the  view  was  of  unlimited 
extent — here  and  there  a  rocky  islet  appear- 
ing above  the  water  at  a  great  distance ;  and 
beyond,  everything  was  vagnc  and  undefined. 
As  we  looked  over  the  vast  expanse  of  water 
spread  out  beneath  us,  and  strained  our  eyes 
along  the  silent  shores  over  which  hung  so 
much  doubt    and    uncertainty,  and   which 
were  so  full  of  interest  to  us,  I  could  hardly 
repress  the  almost  irresistible  desire  to  con- 
tinue our  exploration;  but  the  lengthening 
snow  on  the  mountains  was  a  p  ain  indica- 
tion of  the  advancing  season,  and  our  frail 
linen  boat  appeared  so  insecure  that  I  was 
unwilling  to  trust  our  lives  to  the  uncertain- 
ties of  the  lake.    I  therefore  unwillingly  re- 
solved to  terminate  our  survey  here,  and 
remain  satisfied  for  the  present  with  what  we 
had  been  able  to  add  to  the  unknown  geogra- 
phy of  the  region.    Wv  felt  pleasure  also  in 
remembering  that  we  were  tlie  first  who,  in 
the  traditionary  annals  of  the  country,  had 
visited  the  islands,  and  broken,  with  the 
cheerful  sound  of  human  voices,  tho  long 
solitude  of  the  place.    From  the  point  where 
we  were  standing,  the  ground  fell  off  on 
every  side  to  the  water,  giving  us  a  perfee 
view  of  the  island,  which  is  twelfs  or  thiK  i 


i 


k  •*- 


CAPT.  FRGMONTVS  NARRATIVE. 


[1841 


'ri' 


if 
'1  ? 


i    St 


teen  milcH  in  circiimrrrcnce,  beini;  simply  a 
rocky  iiill,  on  wliioli  there  u  nritlier  water 
nor  Irct'H  of  any  kind  ;  although  the  Fremtm- 
tia  vennicutaris,  which  was  in  ^ri-'ut  abnnd- 
ance,  ini^rht  easily  bo  mistaken  lor  timber  at 
a  dirttancu.  'I'liu  plant  seemed  hero  to  de- 
liijht  ill  a  cnntronial  air,  growing;  in  extraor- 
dinary  luxuriance  nevcn  to  eight  Teet  liigh, 
and  wa8  very  abundant  on  the  upper  partH  of 
the  inland,  where  it  was  almot^t  the  only 
plant.  This  is  eminently  a  ealino  shrub ;  its 
leaves  have  a  very  salt  taste ;  and  it  luxuri- 
ates in  saline  soilx,  where  it  is  usually  a  cha- 
racteristic. It  is  widely  diffused  over  all  this 
country.  A  chenopo'iiuceous  shrub,  which 
is  a  new  species  of  obione  (O.  rigida,  7Wr. 
4"  Frem.),  was  equully  characteristic  of  the 
lower  parts  of  the  Island.  These  two  are 
the  strikinn;  plants  on  the  island,  and  belong 
to  a  class  of  plants  which  form  a  prominent 
feature  in  the  vegetation  of  this  country- 
On  the  lower  parts  of  the  island,  also,  a  prickly 
pear  of  very  largo  size  was  frequent.  On  the 
khote,  near  the  water,  was  a  woolly  species 
of  phaca  ;  and  a  new  species  of  umbelliferous 
plant  (leptoUcmia)  was  scattered  about  in 
very  conciderablc  abundance.  These  con- 
stituted all  the  vegetation  that  now  appeared 
upon  the  island. 

I  accidentally  left  on  the  summit  the  brass 
cover  to  the  object  end  of  ray  spy-glaas ;  and 
as  it  will  probably  remain  there  undisturbed 
by  Indians,  it  will  furnish  matter  of  specula- 
tion to  some  future  traveller.  In  our  excur- 
sions about  the  island,  we  did  not  meet  with 
any  kind  oC  animal ;  a  magpie,  and  another 
larger  bird,  probably  attracted  by  the  smoke 
of  our  fire,  paid  us  a  visit  from  the  shore,  and 
were  the  only  living  things  seen  during  our 
stay.  The  rock  conslituting  the  cliffs  along 
tlie  shore  where  we  were  encamped,  is  a  tat- 
cous  rock,  or  steatite,  with  brown  spar. 

At  sunset,  the  temperature  was  70".  We 
had  arrived  just  in  time  to  obtain  a  meridian 
altitude  of  dhe  sun,  and  other  observations 
were  obtained  this  evening,  which  place  our 
camp  in  latitude  41°  10'  42",  and  longitude 
112*»  21'  05"  from  Greenwich.  Fromadis- 
cuRsion  of  the  barometrical  observations 
made  during  our  stay  on  the  shores  of  the 
lake,  we  have  adopted  4,200  feet  for  its  ele- 
vation above  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  In  the 
first  disappointment  we  felt  from  the  dissipa- 
tion of  our  dream  of  the  fertile  islands,  I 
called  this  Disappointment  island. 

Out  of  the  drift  wood,  we  made  ourselves 
pleasant  little  lodges,  open  to  the  water,  and, 
after  having  kindled  large  fires  to  excite  the 
wonder  of  any  straggling  savage  on  the  lake 
shores,  lay  down,  for  the  first  time  in  a  long 
journer,  in  perfect  security;  no  one  thinking 
aaouL  ti  i:>  e.>:ini. .  The  evening  was  extremely 
Irigtil  Aiiti  Pleasant :  but  the  wind  rose  dur- 
ion  trie  night,  aud  the  waves  began  to  break 


lioavily  on  the  slinro,  making  our  island 
tromblo.  I  had  not  f.v|)(<rtod  in  (nir  inland 
jiiurncy  to  hour  the  Kiar  of  nn  ocean  surf; 
and  the  strangeiiC8sof  our  Hituiilion,  and  the 
excitement  we  felt  in  the  bhhoc luted  interests 
uf  the  place,  made  iIiIh  one  of  the  most  in* 
teresting  nigiitii  I  remember  during  our  long 
expedition. 

In  the  morning,  the  surf  was  breaking 
heavily  on  the  shore,  and  we  were  up  early. 
The  hike  was  dark  and  agitated,  and  we  hur- 
ried through  our  scanty  breakikxt,  and  em- 
barked— having  first  (illod  one  of  the  buckets 
with  water  from  the  lake,  of  which  it  was 
intended  to  make  salt.  The  sun  had  risen 
by  the  time  we  were  ready  to  start ;  and  it 
was  blowing  a  strong  gale  of  wind,  almost 
directly  otf  the  shore,  and  raisin,?  a  considera- 
ble sea,  in  which  our  l)oat  strained  very 
much.  It  roughened  as  we  got  away  from 
the  island,  and  it  required  all  the  etforts  of 
the  men  to  make  any  head  against  the  wind 
and  sea,  the  gale  rising  with  the  sun ;  and 
there  was  danger  of  being  blown  into  one  of 
the  open  reaches  beyond  the  island.  At  the 
distance  of  half  a  mile  from  the  beach,  the 
depth  of  water  was  10  feet,  with  a  clay  bot- 
tom ;  but,  as  the  working  of  the  l)oat  wai 
very  severe  labor,  and  during  the  operation 
of  rounding  it  was  necessary  to  cease  pad- 
dling, during  which  the  boat  lost  considera- 
ble way,  I  was  unwilling  to  discourage  the 
men,  and  reluctantly  gave  up  my  intention  of 
ascertaining  the  depth,  and  the  character  ot  the 
bed.  There  was  a  general  shout  in  the  boat 
when  wo  found  ourselves  in  one  fathom,  and 
we  soon  after  landed  on  a  low  point  of  mud, 
immediately  under  the  butte  of  the  peninsula, 
where  we  unloaded  the  boat,  and  carried  the 
baggage  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  firmer 
ground.  We  arrived  just  in  time  for  meri- 
dian observation,  and  carried  the  barometer  to 
the  summit  of  the  butte,  which  is  600  feet 
above  the  lake.  Mr.  Preuss  set  off  on  foot  for 
the  camp,  which  was  about  nine  miles  dis- 
tant ;  fiasil  accompanying  him,  to  bring  back 
horses  for  the  boat  and  teggage. 

The  rude-looking  shelter  we  raised  on  riie 
shore,  our  scattered  baggage  and  boat  lying 
on  the  beach,  made  quite  a  picture  ;  and  wo 
called  this  the  £sAerman'«  cam/).  Lynosiri$ 
graveoUns,  and  another  new  species  of  (m* 
ONE  (O.  confertifolia — Torr.  cf-  Frem.),  vren 
growing  on  the  low  grounds,  w  ith  interspers- 
ed spots  of  an  unwholesome  salt  grass,  on  a 
saline  clay  soil,  with  a  few  other  plants. 

The  horses  arrived  late  in  the  afternoon, 
by  which  time  the  gale  had  increased  to  such 
a  height  that  a  man  coild  scarcely  stand 
before  it ;  and  we  were  obliged  to  pack  our 
baggage  hastilv,  as  the  rising  water  of  the 
lake  had  already  reached  the  point  where  W0 
were  halted.  Looiting  knck  as  we  rode  ofl^ 
we  found  the  place  of  receni  encampmeiU 


[184S. 

lore,  makiri);  our  ioland 
lot  i-.v|)i>('to(l  in  (iiir  inland 
IP  tour  of  nil  ocean  iiurf; 
'S  of  our  HitiiiiLioii,  and  the 

ill  tlieuHHociutcd  intereaU 
e  tliiH  one  ut  the  most  in- 
remember  diirinir  our  long 

the  surf  wn8  breaking 
re,  mill  we  were  up  earl/. 

uiul  agitated,  liiul  we  hur- 
Bciinty  brealtfast,  and  em* 
Rt  tillrd  oneof  tlie  buckets 
tlio  lake,  of  wliicli  it  wai 

Halt.  The  sun  had  risen 
ero  ready  to  »tiirt ;  and  it 
onfif  frale  of  wind,  almost 
re,  and  raisiuir  a  considera- 
1  our  lioat  fiiruiiied  very 
ned  as  we  pot  away  from 
required  all  the  efforts  of 
any  head  against  the  wind 
rising  with  the  sun  ;  and 
of  being  blown  into  one  of 
beyond  the  island.    At  the 

mile  from  the  beach,  the 

8  10  feet,  with  a  clay  hot- 
working  of  the  lioat  wai 
I  and  during  the  operation 
IS  necessary  to  cease  pad- 
ch  the  boat  loHt  considera- 
twilling  to  discourage  the 
tly  gave  up  my  intention  of 
>ptli,and  thecliaracterot  the 
a  general  shout  in  the  boat 
irsclvcs  in  one  fathom,  and 
ied  on  a  low  point  of  mud, 
r  tlie  butte  of  tlie  peninsula, 
id  the  boat,  and  carried  the 
quarter  of  a  mile  to  firmer 
ived  just  in  time  for  merl- 
ind  carried  the  barometer  to 

9  butte,  which  is  fiOO  feet 
Sir.  Preuss  set  ofTon  foot  for 
was  about  nine  miles  dis- 
panying  him,  to  bring  back 
X  and  luggage. 

ng  shelter  we  raised  oh  the 
ed  baggage  and  boat  Iving 
le  quitq  a  picture ;  and  wn 
ierman's  camp.  LynosirU 
nother  new  species  of  OBh 
lia — Torr.  tljr  Frem.),wen 
w  grounds,  n  ith  interspen- 
wholesome  salt  grass,  on  a 
ith  a  few  other  plants, 
ved  late  in  the  afternoon, 
gale  had  increased  to  such 
nan  covld  scarcely  stand 
were  obliged  to  pack  onr 
!i8  the  rising  water  of  the 
eached  the  point  where  we 
)king  back  tua  ;ve  rode  00^ 
ice  oi  recem  encampmeitt 


mB 


IMS.] 


CAl'T.  FUKMONT'H  NARU.V'l'IVK. 


91 


entirely  covered.  The  low  plain  throuijh 
which  we  rode  to  the  camp  was  covereil  with 
a  compact  growth  of  shriibi*  of  oxtniordinnry 
ijii!E  and  luxuriance.  Thn  noil  wan  sandy 
and  saline ;  Hat  places,  renenihlinn  tlie  l>ed* 
uf  poiiils,  tliut  were  bare  of  vegetation,  and 
covered  with  a  powdery  white  salt,  being 
interspersed  among  the  shrubs,  Artemisia 
iridentata  wan  very  abundant,  but  tiie  plants 
were  principally  saline  ;  a  large  and  vigor- 
ons  clieiiopiHliaceouH  »lirul),  live  to  eight  feet 
nigh,  beiii^  characteristic,  witli  Frcinontia 
vermicularii*,  and  a  shrubby  plant  which 
.seems  to  be  a  new  miticornia.  Wo  reached 
llie  camp  in  time  to  escape  a  thunder  storm 
which  blackened  the  sky.  and  were  received 
with  a  discharge  ot  tiie  howitzer  by  the 
people,  who,  having  been  unable  to  see  any- 
thing of  us  on  the  lake,  had  begun  to  feel 
some  uneasiness. 

September  11. — To-do  y  we  remained  at 
this  camp,  in  order  to  obtain  some  further 
observations,  and  to  boil  down  the  water 
which  had  been  brought  from  the  lake,  for  a 
supply  of  salt.  Roughly  cvapomtcd  over 
the  fire,  the  five  gallons  of  water  yielded 
fourteen  pints  of  very  fine-grained  and  very 
white  salt,  of  which  the  whole  lake  may  be 
regarded  as  a  saturated  solution.  A  portion 
of  the  salt  thus  obtained  has  been  subjected 
to  analysis,  giving,  in  100  parts,  the  following 
proportions : 

Analysis  of  the  salt. 

Chloride  of  sodium  (common  salt)   .  97.80 

Chloride  of  calcium 0.61 

Chloride  of  magnesium 0.24 

Sulphate  of  soda 0.23 

Sulphate  of  lime 1.12 

100.00 


Glancing  your  eye  along  the  map,  you  will 
tee  a  small  stream  entering  the  Utah  lake, 
south  of  the  Spanish  fork,  and  the  first  wa- 
ters of  that  lake  which  our  road  of  1844 
crosses  in  coming  up  from  the  southward. 
When  I  was  on  this  stream  with  Mr.  Walker 
in  that  year,  he  informed  me  that  on  the 
upper  part  of  the  river  are  immense  beds  of 
rock  salt  of  verv  great  thickness,  which  he 
tiad  frequently  visited.  Farther  to  the  south- 
ward, the  rivers  which  are  af  uent  to  the 
Colorado,  such  as  the  Rio  Virgen,  and  Gila 
river,  near  their  mouths,  are  impregnated 
with  salt  by  the  clifis  of  rock  salt  between 
which  they  pass.  These  mines  occur  in  the 
same  ridge  in  which,  about  120  miles  to  the 
northward,  and  subsequently  in  their  more 
immediate  neighborhood,  we  discovered  the 
fossils  belonging  to  the  oolitic  period,  and 
they  iire  probably  connected  with  that  form- 

tion,  and  are  the  deposite  from  which  the 


Great  I.ake  obtaiim  its  salt.  Had  we  remain- 
ed longer,  we  slioi-.ld  have  found  tliein  in  its 
Im'iI,  and  in  the  inonntnitm  nroiiiid  it'  'ores. 
liv  oliservation.  the  lallliiile  of  ti  imp 
is  -fi  1.')'  60",  and  lon^filiide  11-J-  Oo  43". 
The  observations  made  during  our  stay 
give  for  the  rate  of  the  rlironoineier  31". 72, 
corresponding  almost  exactly  with  the  rate 
obtained  at  St.  Vrain's  fort.  Uaioiuetrical 
observations  were  made  hourly  during  the 
day.  This  morning  we  breakl'asted  on  yam-  ' 
pall,  and  had  only  kamis  for  supper ;  but  a 
cup  of  good  cotl'ce  still  distiiiguie>hed  us  fronl' 
our  Diir^er  acquaintanccH. 

Sriiiember  12. — The  morning  was  elear 
and  calm,  with  a  temperature  at  sunrise  of 
32°.  We  resumed  our  journey  late  in  the 
day,  returning  by  nearly  the  same  route 
which  we  had  travelled  in  coining  to  the 
hike ;  and,  avoiding  the  passage  of  liawthorn 
creek,  struck  the  hills  a  little  below  the  hut 
salt  springs.  The  flat  plain  we  had  here 
passed  over  consisted  alternately  of  tolerably 
good  sandy  soil  and  of  saline  plats.  We 
encamped  early  on  Clear  creek,  at  the  foot 
of  the  high  ridge  *,  one  of  the  peaks  of  which 
we  ascertained  by  measurement  to  be  4,210 
feet  above  the  Ifeke,  or  about  8,400  feet  above 
the  sea.  Behind  these  front  peaks  the  ridge 
rises  towards  the  Bear  river  mountains, 
which  arc  probably  as  high  as  the  Wind 
river  chain.  This  creek  is  here  unusually 
well  timbered  with  a  variety  of  trees.  Among 
them  were  birch  (betula),  the  narrow-leaved 
poplar  (populiis  anguslifolia),  scvera^  kinds 
of  willow  {salix),  hawthorn  (cral(rjrus),  al- 
der {ainus  viridis),  and  cerasus,  with  an  oak 
allied  to  quercus  alba,  but  very  distinct  from 
that  or  any  other  species  in  the  United 
States. 

We  had  to-night  a  supper  of  sea  gulls, 
which  Carson  killed  near  the  lake.  Although 
cool,  the  thermometer  standing  at  47°,  mua- 
quitoes  were  sufHciently  numerous  to  be 
troublesome  this  evening. 

September  13. — Continuing  up  the  river 
valley,  we  crossed  several  small  streams; 
the  mountains  on  the  right  appearing  to  con- 
sist  of  the  blue  limestone,  wnich  we  had  ob- 
served in  the  same  ridge  to  the  northward, 
alternating  here  with  a  granular  quartz  al- 
ready mentioned.  One  of  these  streams, 
which  forms  a  smaller  lake  near  the  river, 
was  broken  up  into  several  channels ;  and 
the  irrigated  bottom  of  fertile  soil  was  covered 
with  innumerable  flowers,  among  which  were 
purple  fields  of  eupatorium  purpureum,  with 
nelianthi,  a  handsome  solidago  {S.  canaden 
sis),  and  a  variety  of  other  plants  in  b<oom. 
Continuing  along  the  foot  of  the  hills,  in  the 
afternoon  we  found  five  or  six  hot  spring! 
gushing  out  together,  beneath  a  conglome- 
rate, consisting  principally  of  fragments  of  ■ 
gteyish-blue  umestooe,  efBorescing  a  salt 


99 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVK. 


[1841 


upon  the  ^iirfnre.  The  tpm|)«nitiireof  theiio 
iiprinj^x  WM  134*,  and  fho  rocks  in  tho  liod 
worn  colored  with  a  red  (lo|Hmit(>.  nnd  there 
wiiK  common  »alt  cry^tnllizpd  on  the  innrj^in. 
Thoro  waf*  hUo  a  white  incrustation  ujion 
leaves  and  roots,  cnnsigtinji;  princiniilly  of 
carbonate  of  lime.  There  were  riii«lies  neon 
alon)r  the  road  this  a<\erno»ii,  and  the  soil 
under  the  hilla  wan  very  black,  nnd  iippnrent- 
ly  very  good ;  but  at  this  time  the  grass  is 
entirely  dried  up.  We  encampe<l  im  Bear 
river,  immediately  below  a  ciit-otf,  the  caAon 
by  which  the  river  enters  this  valley  bearing 
north  by  compass.  The  night  was  mild,  with 
a  very  clear  sky;  and  I  obtnin«»d  a  very 
excellent  observation  of  an  occultation  of 
Tau.'  Arietis,  with  other  observations.  Both 
immersion  and  emersion  of  the  star  were 
observed  ;  but,  as  our  observations  have 
shown,  the  phase  at  the  bright  limb  general- 
ly gives  incorrect  longitudes,  and  we  have 
adopted  the  result  obtained  fram  the  emersion 
at  the  dark  limb,  without  allowing  any  weight 
to  the  immersion.  According  tu  these  ob- 
servations, the  longitude  is  1 12*05'  12 ",  and 
the  latitude  41°  42'  43".  All  the  longitudes 
on  the  lino  of  our  outward  journey,  between 
St.  Vrain's  fort  and  the  Dalles  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, which  were  not  directly  determined 
by  satellites,  have  been  chronometically  re- 
ferred to  this  place. 

The  people  to-day  were  rather  low-spirit- 
ed, hunger  making  them  very  quiet  and 
peaceable ;  and  there  was  rarely  an  oath  to 
06  heard  in  the  camp — not  even  a  solitarv 
enfant  de  garce.  It  was  time  for  the  mtr 
with  an  expected  supply  of  provisions  from 
Fitzpatrick  to  bo  In  the  neighborhood ;  and 
the  gun  was  fired  at  evening,  to  ^ve  them 
notice  of  our  locality,  but  met  with  no  re- 
sponse. 

September  14. — About  four  miles  from 
this  encampment,  the  trail  led  us  down  to 
the  river,  where  we  unexpectedly  found  an 
excellent  ford — the  stream  being  widened  by 
an  island,  and  not  yet  disengaged  from  the 
hills  at  the  foot  of  the  range.  We  encamped 
on  a  little  creek  where  we  had  made  a  noon 
halt  in  descending  the  river.  The  night 
was  very  clear  and  pleasant,  the  sunset  tem- 
perature being  67°. 

The  people  this  evenihg  looked  «>  forlorn, 
that  I  save  them  permission  to  kill  a  fat 
young  horse  which  I  had  purchased  with 
goods  from  the  Snake  Indians,  and  they  were 
very  soon  restored  to  gaiety  and  good  hu- 
mor. Mr.  PrensB  and  myself  could  not  yet 
overcome  some  remains  of  civilized  preju- 
dices, and  preferred  to  starve  a  little  longer ; 
feeling  as  much  saddened  aa  if  a  crime  nad 
been  committed. 

The  next  day  we  continued  up  the  valley, 
the  soil  being  Bometimes  very  black  and 
good,  occasionally  gravelly,  and  occasionally 


a  kind  of  naked  salt  plaitm.  VVn  found  on 
the  way  this  morning  a  small  enriiuipment 
of  two  familieH  of  Hnake  Indians,  from  whom 
wo  purchased  a  small  (|uantity  of  hmijnh. 
They  had  piles  of  seeds,  of  three  ditlerent 
kinds,  spread  out  upon  pieces  of  bulTiilo  robe ; 
nnd  the  squaws  had  just  gathered  alxiut  a 
bushel  of  the  roots  of  a  thistle  (rircium  Kir- 
liiiiianiim).  They  were  about  the  onlinnry 
ni/.e  of  carrots,  nnd,  as  I  have  previously 
mentioned,  are  sweet  and  well  flavored,  re- 
quiring only  u  long  preparation.  They  had 
a  banuflf  twelve  or  fifteen  horses,  and  ap- 
peared to  he  growing  in  the  sunshine  with 
about  as  little  labor  as  the  plants  they  were 
eating. 

Hhortiv  afterwards  we  mot  an  Indian  nn 
horselmclc  who  had  killed  an  antelo|ie,  which 
wu  purchased  from  him  for  a  little  powder 
and  some  balls.  We  crossed  the  Ho!<eaux, 
and  encamped  on  the  left  bank ;  halting 
early  for  the  piensu/e  of  enjoying  a  whole- 
some and  abui.-Jant  supper,  and  were  pleas- 
antly engaged  ir  protracting  our  unusual 
comfort,  wl  ^n  Pabeaii  galloped  into  the 
camp  with  ne.vu  that  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  was 
encamped  close  uy  us,  with  a  ^ood  supply  of 
provisions — floiir,  rice,  and  dried  meat,  and 
even  a  little  butter.  Excitement  to-night 
made  us  all  wakeful ;  and  alter  a  breakfast 
before  sunrise  the  next  morning,  we  were 
again  on  the  road,  and,  continuing  up  the 
valley,  crossed  some  high  points  of  hills,  ond 
halted  to  noon  on  the  same  stream,  near  seve- 
ral lodges  of  Snake  Indians,  from  whom  w* 
purchased  about  a  bushel  of  service  berries, 
partially  dried.  By  the  gift  of  a  kni'e,  I  pre- 
vailed upon  a  little  boy  to  show  mo  ti.t  koo- 
yah  plant,  which  proved  to  be  taleriana  edu- 
lis.  The  root,  which  constitutes  the  kooyah, 
is  large,  of  a  very  bright  yellow  color,  with 
Uie  characteristic  odor,  but  not  so  fully  de- 
veloped as  in  the  prepared  substance.  It 
loves  the  rich  moist  soil  of  river  bottoms, 
which  was  the  locality  in  which  I  always  af- 
terwards found  it.  It  was  now  entirely  out 
of  bloom ;  according  to  my  observaticn, 
flowering  in  the  months  of  May  and  June. 
In  the  afternoon  we  entered  a  long  ravine 
leading  to  a  pass  in  the  dividing  ridge  be- 
tween the  waters  of  Bear  river  and  the 
Snake  river,  or  Lewis's  fork  of  the  Colum- 
bia ;  our  way  being  very  much  impeded,  umI 
almost  entir^y  blocked  up,  by  compact  fieldi 
of  luxuriant  artemisia.  Taking  leave  at  thii 
point  of  the  waters  of  Betir  river,  and  of  the 
geographical  basin  which  encloses  the  tjw- 
tern  of  rivers  and  creeks  which  belong  to 
the  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  which  so  richly  d*^ 
serves  a  future  detailed  and  ample  explore 
tion,  I  can  say  of  it,  in  general  terms,  that 
the  bottoms  of  this  river  (Bear),  and  of  sonw 
of  the  creeks  which  I  saw,  form  a  natural 
resting  and  recruiting  station  for  travellers, 


s  ^ 


[1841 

rU  plaiim.  Wo  loiind  on 
lint;  '^  Kinnll  enriiiii|iment 
Hnako  Iiiilinn*,  Iroin  whom 
Hmnll  qimntity  ol'  hmjah. 
ncoiln,  of  thrpe  dilleront 

|M)n  pieces  nt'  I>ut1itln  robo ; 
ind  jimt  frtttliorpil  nl)(>ut  a 
I  of  a  thJBtlo  (rircium  Vir' 
y  were  about  the  oniinnry 
ml,  an  I  have  previoiiKJy 

ent  and  well  flavored,  re- 
)T  preparation.  They  had 
or  fifteen  hursen,  and  ap- 
v'mfi  in  the  Riinffhino  with 
tT  as  the  plantH  they  were 

rda  we  mot  an  Indian  on 
id  killed  an  antplo|H<,  which 
im  him  for  a  little  powder 
We  crossed  the  Hoscaiix, 
n  the  left  bank;  halting 
sure  of  onjoyin^r  a  whole- 
lit  Ruppcri  and  were  pleas- 
'  protractini;  our  unusual 
Pabcaii  galloped  into  tho 
I  that  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  was 
y  us,  with  a  ^ood  supply  ol 

rice,  and  dried  meat,  and 
tter.  Excitement  to-night 
iful ;  and  after  a  breakfast 
le  next  morning,  we  were 
A,  and,  continuing  up  the 
line  high  points  of  hills,  and 
the  same  stream,  near  seve- 
ike  Indians,  from  whom  w« 
a  bushel  of  service  berries, 
By  the  gift  of  a  kni'e.  I  pre- 
le  boy  to  show  me  ii.'»  koo- 
proved  to  be  Valeriana  edu>- 
hich  constitutes  the  kooyah, 
ry  bright  yellow  color,  with 
s  odor,  but  not  so  fully  de- 
le prepared  substance.  It 
loist  soil  of  river  bottoms, 
icality  in  which  I  always  af- 
t.  It  was  now  entirely  out 
irding   to  my  observation, 

months  of  May  and  June. 

we  entered  a  lon^  ravine 
IS  in  the  dividing  ridge  be- 
rrs  of  Bear  river  and  the 
Lewis's  fork  of  the  Colom- 
ing  very  much  impeded,  and 
ilocked  op,  by  compact  field* 
misia.  Taking  leave  at  thia 
irs  of  Befir  river,  and  of  tlw 
in  which  encloses  the  ays* 
nd  creeks  which  belongs  to 
ake,  and  which  so  richlvda* 
letailed  and  ample  explora> 
if  it,  in  genera!  terms,  that 
lis  river  (Bear),  and  of  some 
hich  I  saw,  form  a  natural 
liting  station  for  travelleiii 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


BOW,  and  in  all  tinip  to  come.  The  Imttoms 
aruoxteimivu  ;  wuter excellent ;  timlior sutli- 
ciont ;  the  nuil  guiMl,  and  well  adapted  to  tho 
(rniiiiH  and  graHscN  Miiitod  to  surli  an  ulevat- 
fd  region.  A  militiiry  ixwt,  and  a  civilized 
•ettleini'iit,  would  U^  ut  groat  viiliiu  here; 
and  cattle  and  hornes  would  do  well  where 
grass  mid  iialt  so  niiicli  abound.  Tho  lake 
will  I'liriiirtli  cxhaustU'MH  supplier  of  salt.  All 
the  mountain  sides  here  are  covered  with  a 
taliialilu  iiiitritiuuHgriisH,  called  bunch  grass, 
from  the  loriii  in  which  it  grows,  whicTi  has 
a  second  growth  in  the  fall.  The  beatits  of 
tlio  liidiiinM  were  I'lit  upon  it ;  our  own  found 
it  a  g(Mid  Hiihsisteiicu  ;  and  its  quantity  will 
KUtitHin  liny  amount  of  cattle,  and  make  this 
truly  a  bucolic  region. 

VVo  met  hero  an  Indian  family  on  horse- 
back, which  had  been  out  to  gather  service 
berries,  and  were  returning  loaded.  This 
tree  was  scattered  about  on  the  hills ;  and 
the  upper  part  of  tho  pass  was  timbered  with 
aspen  (pDimlus  (rem.) ;  the  common  blue 
flowering  flax  occurring  among  the  plants. 
Tho  approach  to  the  pass  was  very  steep ; 
and  the  summit  alxiut  G,300  feet  above  tlio 
lea — probably  only  an  uncertain  approxima- 
tion, as  at  the  timr,  of  observation  it  was 
blowing  a  violent  gale  of  wind  from  the 
northwest,  with  cumuli  scattered  in  masses 
over  the  sky,  ttie  day  otherwise  bright  and 
clear.  We  descended,  by  a  steep  slope,  into 
a  broad  open  valley — good  soil ;  from  four 
to  Ave  miles  wide ;  coming  down  immediate- 
ly upon  one  of  the  headwaters  of  tho  Pan- 
nack  river,  which  here  loses  itself  in  swampy 
ground.  The  appearance  of  the  coiintiy 
here  is  not  very  interesting.  On  either  side 
id  a  regular  range  of  mountains  of  the  usual 
character,  with  a  little  timber,  tolerably 
rocky  on  the  right,  and  higher  and  more 
smooth  on  the  left,  with  still  higher  peaks 
looking  out  above  the  range.  The  valley 
afibrded  a  good  level  road  ;  but  it  was  late 
when  it  brought  us  to  water,  and  we  en- 
camped at  dark.  The  northwest  wind  had 
blown  up  very  cold  weather,  and  the  arte- 
misia,  which  was  our  fire  wood  to-night,  did 
not  happen  to  be  very  abundant.  This  plant 
loves  a  dry,  sandy  soil,  and  cannot  grow  in 
the  good  bottoms  where  it  is  rich  and  moist, 
but  on  every  little  eminence,  where  water 
does  not  rest  lon|f,  it  maintains  absolute  pos- 
session. Elevation  above  the  aes  about 
6,100  feet. 

At  night  Bcattered  fires  glimmered  along 
the  mountains,  pointing  out  camps  of  the 
Indians ;  and  we  contrasted  the  comparative 
security  in  which  we  travelled  through  this 
country,  with  the  guarded  vigilance  we  were 
compelled  to  exert  among  the  Sionx  and 
other  Indians  on  the  eastern  side  of  tlie 
Rocky  mountains. 


At  suniiet  the  thermometer  was  at  oO",  and 
at  inidiiighl  at  30°. 

.S>/(/rm/i(T  17. — The  morning  sky  was  calm 
and  clt'iir,  the  t(<in|H<ratur6  nt  ilayfiglit  being 
25o,  and  at  niinrii*e  'Jile.  There  is  through- 
out tliiH  iiioiintnin  country  a  remiirkablo  dif- 
forenco  between  tho  morning  and  midday 
temiieratiircs,  which  at  this  seaHon  was  very 
generally  4Uoor  6()e,  and  occnsioiiiilly  great- 
er ;  and  frequently,  alter  a  very  fronty  morn 
ing,  the  heat  in  u  few  hours  woiihl  render 
the  thinnest  clothing  agreeable.  About  noun 
we  reached  tho  main  fork.  Tho  Pannack 
river  was  before  us;  the  valley  being  hero  1| 
mile  wide,  fertile,  and  bordered  by  snuMith 
hills,  not  over  6UU  leet  high,  partly  covered 
with  cedar ;  a  high  ridge,  in  wliich  there  is  a 
prominent  peak,  rising  behind  those  on  the 
left.  We  continued  to  descend  this  stream, 
and  found  on  it  at  night  a  warm  and  comfort- 
able camp.  Flax  occurred  so  frequently  du- 
ring the  day  as  to  be  almost  a  characteristic, 
and  the  soil  appeared  excellent.  The  oppe- 
site  hills  on  the  right  are  broken  here  into  a 
great  variety  of  shapes.  The  evening  was 
gusty,  with  a  temperature  at  sunset  of  69°. 
I  obtained,  about  midnight,  an  observation  of 
an  emersion  of  the  tirnt  satellite  ;  tho  night 
being  calm  and  very  clear,  the  stars  remark- 
ably bright,  and  the  thermometer  at  30*. 
Longitude,  from  mean  of  satellite  and  chro- 
nometer, 113°  iiO'  62";  and  latitude,  by  ob^ 
servation,  42°  44'  40". 

September  18. — The  day  clear  and  calm, 
with  a  temperature  of  26"^  at  sunrise.  Aftei 
travelling  seven  or  eight  miles,  we  emerged 
on  the  plains  of  the  Columbia,  in  sight  of  tho 
famous  "  Three  Hutles,''  a  well-known  land- 
mark in  the  country,  distant  about  45  miles. 
The  French  word  butte,  which  so  often  occurs 
in  this  narrative,  is  retained  from  the  familiar 
language  of  the  country,  and  identifies  the 
objects  to  which  it  refers.  It  is  naturalized 
in  the  region  of  the  Rocky  mountains ;  and, 
even  tf  i^sirable  to  render  it  in  English,  I 
know  of  no  word  which  would  be  its  precise 
equivalent.  It  is  applied  to  tlie  detached 
hills  and  ridges  which  rise  abruptly,  and 
reach  too  high  to  be  called  hills  or  ridges, 
and  not  high  enough  to  be  called  mountains. 
Knob,  as  applied  in  the  western  States,  is 
their  most  descriptive  term  in  English.  Cerro 
is  the  Spanish  term  ;  but  no  translation,  or 
paraphrasis,  would  preserve  the  identity  of 
these  picturesque  landmarks,  familiar  to  the 
traveller,  and  often  seen  at  a  great  distance. 
Covered  as  far  as  could  be  seen  with  artemisia, 
the  dark  and  ugly  appearance  of  this  plain 
obtained  for  it  the  name  of  the  Sage  Desert ; 
and  we  were  agreeably  surprised,  on  reach- 
ing the  Portneuf  river,  to  see  a  beautifnl 
green  valley  with  scattered  timber  spread  ont 
Beneath  us,  on  which,  about  four  miles  dit> 


1^ 


TAl'l.  nU'.MONTM  NAUIIATIVK, 


IIH43 


;;  * 


Un*,  wore  elUtcninflf  tlio  wliito  whIIh  of  the 
ft)rf.  Till'  I'ortiioiit'  nmn  nloni?  Ilio  i!t>liiiiil 
pliiiii  tu'iirly  to  itH  tnoiitli,  nnil  iin  nhriipt 
de»fPiit  (>!'  |)(<rliii|m  300  fpcl  hrnu|;lit  iii*  down 
iniiiifiliiUrly  ii|K)n  tim  Htifiim,  which  nt  the 
ford  ii  100  yard*  wido,  and  lliroo  fcft  dopi), 
with  cli'iir  wmor,  n  Hwilt  rnrront,  nnd  (frnvelly 
beil  ;  Imt  a  liill"  higher  U|)  thn  hreadth  wn» 
only  ulK)tit  3A  yardi,  with  opparcntly  deep 
water. 

In  the  Ixitfnm  I  remnrkpd  a  very  prcnt 
niimlmr  of  Hprini;"and  HlnuKhn,  with  retn.irk- 
ably  rlenr  water  nnd  (rmvol  Iwdn.  At«iin«et 
wo  encuinped  with  Mr.  'I'nlbot  nnd  niir  frien<ln, 
who  cntnc  on  to  Fort  Hall  when  we  went  to 
the  lake,  nnd  whom  wc  had  the  Nati«fnction 
to  find  nil  well,  neither  party  having  met  with 
any  mlHciiiinco  in  the  interval  of  onr  Hopn- 
rotion.  Tliey,  too,  had  had  their  itlmre  of 
fatigue  nnd  Hcanty  provi«ioni,  an  there  had 
been  very  little  game  left  on  the  trail  of  the 
populous*  emi)rration ;  and  Mr.  Fitzpatrick 
nail  rigidly  huiibanded  our  Riock  of  flour  and 
light  provirtions,  in  view  of  the  npproiiching 
winter  nnd  the  lonp  journey  before  na. 

Sefiirmher  19. —  I'liin  morning  the  sky  wbb, 
very  dark  and  gloomy,  and  at  daylight  it  bo- 
gan  mowing  thickly,  and  continued  all  day, 
with  cold,  disagreeable  weather.  At  Bunriiie 
the  temperature  was  43°.  I  rode  up  to  the 
fort,  and  purchaned  from  Mr.  Grant  (the 
officer  in  charge  of  the  pout)  several  very 
indiflcrent  bori*«g,  and  five  oxen  in  very  tine 
order,  which  were  received  at  the  camp  with 
great  HatiHfaction  ;  and,  one  being  killed  at 
evening,  the  uxual  gaiety  and  grod  humor 
were  at  once  restored.  Night  came  in 
stormy. 

September  20. — We  had  a  night  of  snow 
<nd  rain,  nnd  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  was 
at  34° ;  the  morning  was  dark,  with  a  steady 
rain,  and  there  was  still  an  inch  of  snow  on 
the  ground,  with  an  abundance  on  the  neigh- 
boring hills  and  mountains.  The  sudden 
change  in  the  weather  was  hard  for  onr  ani- 
mals, who  trembled  and  shivered  in  the  cold 
— sometimes  taking  refuge  in  the  timber,  and 
now  and  then  coming  out  and  raking  the 
■now  off  the  ground  for  a  little  grass,  or 
eating  the  young  willows. 

Septemlier  31. — Ice  made  tolerably  thick 
during  the  night,  and  in  the  morning  the 
weather  cleared  up  very  bright,  with  a  tem- 
perature at  sunrise  of  39°;  and  I  obtained  a 
meridian  observation  for  latitude  at  the  fort, 
with  observations  for  time.  The  sky  was 
igain  covered  in  the  afternoon,  and  the  ther- 
nometer  at  sunset  48°. 

Sqilember  33. — The  morning  was  cloudy 
and  unpleasant,  and  at  sunrise  a  cold  rain 
commenced,  with  a  temperature  of  41°. 

The  eurly  approach  of  winter,  and  the  dif- 
ficulty of  supporting  a  large  partv,  determin- 
ed me  to  send  back  a  number  of  the  nien  who 


had  berfiiun  nntintled  that  they  were  not  fllten 
for  the  lalHiriouH  norvice  nnd  frequent  pri- 
vation to  which  thoy  were  necesHarlly  ex- 
poitr'd,  nnd  which  there  wa*  rennoii  to  lielinvc 
would  liecome  moro  severe  in  the  further 
extenHion  of  the  voyage.  I  accordingly 
called  them  together,  nnd,  hiforming  themnf 
my  intention  to  rontlnue  our  jourtiey  duriinr 
the  enHuing  winter,  in  the  roiirno  of  which 
they  would  probably  be  expfwed  to  coiiNidera- 
blu  hardnliip,  succeeded  in  prevailing  nrnin  n 
number  of  ihem  to  re'nrn  voluntarily.  ThcKO, 
were  :  fharle*  f)e  l''orrciit,  Henry  I^'e,  J. 
(.'ain|)l)ell,  Win,  ('reusw,  A.  Vazquez,  A.  Pern, 
Patrick  White,  H.  Tesson,  M.  Crecly,  Fran- 
9ois  linjoiinesMO,  Haail  LnjeuneoHe.  Amonj; 
tliOMe,  I  regretted  very  much  to  lone  UnHi! 
lAJeiinesKO,  one  of  tho  iK'stinen  in  my  party, 
who  wns  obliged,  by  tho  condition  of  IiIk 
family,  to  bo  nt  home  in  the  coining  winter 
Our  preparations  having  been  completed  in 
the  interval  of  our  stay  he/e,  both  partieH 
were  rendy  this  morning  to  resume  their 
respective  routes. 

Except  tbnt  there  ii  a  greater  quantity  of 
wood  used  in  its  construction.  Fort  Hall  verv 
much  resembles  the  other  trading  povts  which 
iiavo  been  already  described  to  you,  aiiil 
would  be  another  excellent  post  of  relief  for 
the  emigration.  It  is  in  the  low,  rich  bottom 
ofo  valley,  apparently  20  miles  long,  fonned 
by  the  confluence  of  Portneuf  river  with 
Ijcwis's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  which  it  en- 
ters about  nine  miles  below  the  fort,  and 
narrowing  gradually  to  the  mouth  of  the 
I'annack  river,  where  it  has  a  breadth  of 
only  two  or  three  miles.  Allowing  60  miles 
for  the  road  from  the  Beer  tjmngs  of  Bear 
river  to  Fort  Hall,  its  distance  along  the 
travelled  road  from  the  town  of  Westjwrt,  on 
the  frontier  of  Missouri,  by  way  of  Port  Ia- 
ramie  and  the  great  South  Pass,  is  1323 
miles.  Beyond  this  plt.ce,  on  the  line  of 
road  along  the  barren  valley  of  tho  Upper 
Columbia,  there  does  not  occur,  for  a  uis- 
tance  of  nearly  three  hundred  miles  to  the 
westward,  a  fertile  spot  of  ground  sutliciently 
lar^  to  produce  tlie  necessary  quantity  of 
grain,  or  pasturage  enough  to  allow  even  a 
temporary  repose  to  the  emigrants.  On 
their  recent  passage,  they  had  heen  able  tc 
obtain,  at  very  high  prices  and  in  insuffi- 
cient quantity,  only  such  assistance  ns  couU 
be  afforded  by  a  small  and  remote  trading 
post — and  that  a  foreign  one — which,  in  the 
supply  of  its  own  wants,  had  necessarily 
drawn  around  it  some  of  the  resources  of 
civilisation,  but  which  obtained  nearly  all  iti 
supplies  from  the  distant  depot  of  Vancou- 
ver, by  a  difficult  water  carriage  of  360 
miles  up  the  Columbia  river,  and  a  land  car- 
riage by  pack  horses  of  600  miles.  An 
American  military  post  sufficiently  strong  to 
give  to  their  road  a  perfect  security  agauial 


•>(l  that  lhi«y  wpm  nut  (Uton 
Horvicn  nnil  t'rcfiiipiit  pri- 
hoy  wcro  iirccuHHrily  fx- 
fioro  wriH  rrnMin  to  Ih-IIpvp 
inrt'  HPvore  in  tlio  fiirthot 

vnyajjo.  I  nrcnrdlinrly 
ler,  Hnd,  hilormint;  tlictnof 
)ntinno  our  journey  iliiriii;; 

r,  in  tlio  coiirHH  of  whicti 
ly  1)0  oxponpd  to  coiiHidcrn- 
cfi It'll  ill  prcvBilitii?  iiniiM  n 

rc'iirn  voliiiitnrily.  tIiohc. 

['  l''orr('iit,  Henry  Ij-e,  J. 
riMiHH,  A.  V»of|iie/,  A.  I'nrn, 

I'csson,  M.  Creely,  Fran- 
IhsiI  LnjouneoHf.  Amoiii; 
I  very  iniicli  to  lose  UhhiI 
if  tlio  iK'Ht  men  in  my  party, 
I,  by  tlio  condition  of  IiIk 
onie  in  tlie  coinin(r  winter 
liiivinff  been  completed  in 
inr  Btay  he.e,  both  partieH 

morning  to  resiiinu  their 

ere  is  a  ffreater  quantity  of 
t'onntruction,  Fort  Hall  very 
he  other  tradinj^  posts  wliicd 
idy  deNcribcd  to  you,  aiid 
r  excellent  post  of  relief  tor 
It  ifl  in  tlie  tow,  rich  h'^tom 
enlly  20  miles  long,  formed 
ce  of  Portneuf  river  with 
the  Columoia,  which  it  en- 
miles  below  the  tort,  and 
ually  to  the  mouth  of  the 
where  it  has  a  breadth  of 
B  miles.  Allowing  60  miles 
n  the  Beer  springs  of  Bear 
[all,  its  distance  along  the 
im  the  town  of  Westtwrt,  on 
litisouri,  by  way  of  Fort  Ia- 
great  8outh  Pass,  is  1323 
this  pikce,  on  the  line  of 
harren  valley  of  the  Upper 
does  not  occur,  for  a  uis- 
three  hundred  miles  to  the 
le  spot  of  ground  sutliciently 
>  tlie  necessary  quantity  of 
ige  enough  to  allow  even  a 
le  to  the  emigrants.  On 
sage,  they  had  oeen  able  tc 
high  prices  and  in  insufii- 
nly  such  assistance  ns  rouM 
\  small  and  remote  trading 
I  foreign  one — which,  in  the 
An  wants,  had  necessarily 
;  some  of  the  resources  of 
which  obtained  nearly  all  iti 
e  distant  depot  of  Vancou< 
ult  water  carriage  of  SiM 
umbia  river,  and  a  land  car- 
horses  of  600  miles.  An 
TV  post  sufficiently  strons'  to 
a  a  perfect  security  against 


1841.1 


TAl'T.  FUKMONT'S  NAIMIATIVK, 


tlio  Indian  Irilics,  wIik  are  un«ettled  in  IncnI- 
ity  and  very  vnriTinin  in  their  disponitjon, 
mill  wliic'li,  with  till'  nerencnry  fncilitics  for 
tlio  repair  of  their  eqiiipiige,  would  lie  able 
t'l  atlitrd  tlioiii  relief  in  utork  nnd  grain  from 
the  pro<luce  ol  tlie  post,  would  be  of  extraor- 
dinary value  til  llii<  ernigriition.  Hueh  a 
poHt  (an<l  nil  otlierK  which  tnny  lie  eslaliliiili- 
ed  on  the  lini-  I"  Oregon)  would  natun\lly 
form  the  nut:l>\  ■■  of  a  nettlement,  at  wliirh 
tupplies  find  repoHO  would  l«i  obtained  by 
the  cinigrunt,  or  trading  caravans,  whirl) 
may  herealter  triiverxe  these  elevutod,  and, 
III  many  pliices,  deHolnto  and  inhospitable 
regions. 

I  subjoin  an  unalvsis  of  the  soil  In  the 
river  bottom  near  tort  Hall,  which  will  lie 
of  assistHiico  in  enabling  you  to  form  some 
correct  idea  of  its  geiierol  character  in  the 
neighlioring  country.  I  characterize  it  as 
go<xi  land,  but  the  analysis  will  show  its 
precise  propeiiies. 


Anahjns  of  ml. 

Silicina      ..... 

68.65 

Alumina 

7.46 

Carbonate  of  lime       ... 

8.61 

Carbonate  of  magnesia    ... 

6.09 

Oxide  of  iron      .... 

1.40 

Orpanic  vegetable  matter 

4.74 

Water  and  loss 

4.2G 

100.00 

Our  observations  place  this  post  in  longi- 
tude Wi^  2»'  64",  latitude  43°  01'  30",  and 
in  elevation  above  the  sea  4,600  feet. 

Taking  leave  of  the  homeward  party,  we 
resumed  our  journey  down  the  valley,  the 
weather  being  very  ("Id  J  the  rain  com- 
ing in  hard  gusts,  w  hicli  lie  wind  blew  di* 
rectly  in  our  faces.  We  forded  the  Port- 
neuf in  a  B(orm  of  ruin,  the  water  in  the 
river  being  fu'(|ueiitly  up  to  Uie  axles,  and 
about  110  yards  w  '•  After  the  gust,  the 
weather  improved  ^  little,  and  wo  encamped 
about  three  milei'  >elow,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Pannack  river,  >  u  Lewis's  fork,  which  here 
has  a  breadth  of  about  120  yards.  The 
temperature  iit  sunset  was  42° ;  the  sky 
partially  covered  with  dark,  rainy  clouds. 

Seplemlier  23. — The  temperature  at  sun- 
rise wtu  32" ;  the  morning  dark,  and  snow 
falling  steadily  and  thickly,  with  a  light  air 
from  the  southward.  Profited  of  being 
obliged  to  remain  in  camp,  to  take  hourly 
barometrical  observations  from  sunrise  to 
midnight.  The  wind  at  eleven  o'clock 
set  in  from  the  northward  in  heavy  gnstR, 
and  the  snow  changed  into  rain,  ui  the 
afiemnon,  when  the  sky  brightened,  the  rain 
bad  wasii'ed  all  tlie  enow  trbm  the  bottoms ; 
bat  the  neighboring  mountains,  from  sum- 


mit to  liiof,  were  liiniiiinii-.ly  white — an  ln» 
iiiiNpicioiis  roinnieiicenient  of  the  autumOi 
of  wliicli  this  WHS  til"  first  iliiy. 

Sejilnnhfr  24. — The  llierinoineter  at  suii* 
ris(>  was  ;i,')",  iiiul  u  blue  sliy  in  the  went 
proiniHcil  a  tine  day.  'I'lie  river  Ixittomi 
liero  lire  niirrow  nnd  swiiiiipy,  with  lre(|iient 
Nioiiglm;  uiid  after  ernMhiiiir  the  I'liniiark, 
the  road  continiieil  iiloiig  the  iipliinds,  reii« 
dered  very  slippery  by  the  soil  of  wet  clay, 
and  entirely  covered  with  erteniinia  hushes, 
among  which  'lociir  frequent  fiiii»iiieiifH  ol 
obsidiiiu.  At  niKin  we  eneiinipeil  in  ii  grove 
of  willowH,  at  the  iinper  end  of  a  group  of 
i)<laiiils  ahoiit  Imlf  a  mile  niMive  the  Anii'rinin 
fitlh  of  Hnako  river,  .\inong  the  willows 
here,  were  bouic  bushes  of  Lewis  nnd 
Clarke's  riirrnnt  (rihm  aiimnn).  The 
river  hero  enters  between  low  muml  banks, 
which  fonsist  of  a  fine  vesicular  trap  rock, 
the  intermediate  portions  lH<ing  compact  and 
crystalline,  firadiially  becoming  higher  in 
its  downward  course,  these  banks  of  scori- 
ated  volcanic  rock  form,  with  occasional  in- 
terruptions, its  characteri.stic  feature  along 
the  whole  lino  to  the  Dalles  of  the  Ixiwer 
Columbia,  resembling  a  cliacm  which  had 
been  rent  through  the  country,  and  which 
the  river  had  atTerwards  taken  for  its  bed 
The  immediate  valley  of  the  river  is  a  higl 
plain  covered  with  black  rocks  and  artemi 
sias.  In  the  south  is  a  bordering  range  of 
mountains,  which,  although  not  very  high, 
are  broken  and  covered  with  snow ;  nnifat 
a  great  distance  to  the  north  is  seen  ti.e  high, 
snowy  line  of  the  Salmon  river  mountains, 
in  front  of  which  stand  out  prominently  i| 
the  plain  the  three  isolated  rugged-looking 
little  mountains  commonly  known  as  the 
Three  Brittes.  Between  the  river  and  the 
distant  Salmon  river  range,  the  plain  is 
represented  by  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  as  so  entirely 
broken  up  and  rent  into  chasms  as  to  be  im- 
practicable for  a  man  even  on  foot.  In  the 
sketch  annexed,  the  point  of  view  is  low.  but 
it  conveys  very  well  some  idea  of  the  open 
character  of  the  country,  with  the  buttes 
rising  out  above  the  general  line.  By  mea. 
Burement,  the  river  above  is  870  feet  wide, 
immediately  contracted  at  the  fall  in  the 
form  of  a  lock,  by  jutting  piles  of  scoriaceous 
basalt,  over  which  the  foaming  river  must 
present  a  grand  appearance  at  the  time  of 
nigh  water.  The  evening  was  clear  and 
pleasant,  with  dew ;  and  at  sunset  the  tem. 
perature  was  64°.  By  observation,  the  lati. 
tude  is  420  47'  06",  and  the  longitude  lia* 
40'  13'.  A  few  hundred  yards  below  the 
falls,  and  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  is  an 
escarpment  from  which  we  obtained  some 
specimens. 

September  26. — Thermometer  at  sunrise 
47".  The  day  came  in  ciear.  wirh  a  otrt-njj 
gale  from  the  south,  whicii  commenced  ai  Vi 


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,;<«W«'<<l«f««5SW"«-'? '»"^'»"«*^''^ '■!**!'>^'*Mi"''^^ 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


'^'im^' 


i:i84i( 


of  the  last  night.  The  road  tcMlay  led  along 
the  river,  which  is  full  of  rapids  and  Btnall 
falls.  Grass  is  very  scanty ;  and  along  the 
rugged  banks  are  scattered  cedars,  with  an 
abundance  of  rocks  and  sage.  We  travelled 
14  miles,  and  encamped  in  the  afternoon 
near  the  river,  on  a  rocky  creek,  the  bed  of 
which  was  entirely  occupied  with  boulders 
of  a  very  large  size.  For  the  last  three  or 
four  miles  the  right  bank  of  the  river  has  a 
palisaded  appearance.  •  One  of  the  oxen  was 
killed  here  for  food.  The  thermometer  at 
evening  was  at  55°,  the  sky  almost  over- 
cast, and  the  barometer  indicated  an  eleva- 
tion of  4,400  feet. 

September  26. — Rain  during  the  night, 
and  the  temperature  at  sunrise  42*.  Trav- 
elling along  the  river,  in  about  4  miles  we 
reached  a  picturesque  stream,  to  which  we 
gave  the  name  of  Fall  creek.  It  is  remark- 
able for  the  many  falls  which  occur  in  a 
short  distance ;  and  its  bed  is  composed  of  a 
calcareous  tufa,  or  vegetable  rock,  composed 
principally  of  the  remains  of  reeds  and 
mosses,  resembling  that  at  the  Basin^spring 
on  Beai  river. 

The  road  along  the  river  bluffs  had  been 
occasionally  very  bad ;  and  imagining  that 
some  rough  obstacles  rendered  such  a  detour 
necessary,  we  followed  for  several  miles  a 
plain  wagon  road  leading  up  this  stream,  un- 
til we  reached  a  point  whence  it  could  be 
seen  making  directly  towards  a  low  place  in 
the  range  on  the  south  side  of  the  valley,  and 
we  became  immediately  aware  that  we  were 
on  a  trail  formed  by  a  party  of  wagons,  in 
company  with  whom  we  had  encamped  at 
Elm  grove,  near  the  frontier  of  Missouri, 
and  which  you  will  remember  were  proceed- 
ing to  Upper  California  under  the  airection 
of  Mr.  Jos.  Chiles.  At  the  time  of  their  de- 
parture, no  practicable  passes  were  known 
in  the  southern  Rooky  mountains  within  the 
territory  of  the  United  States ;  and  the  pro- 
bable apprehension  of  difficulty  in  attempting 
to  pass  near  the  settled  frontier  of  New 
Mexico,  together  with  the  desert  character 
of  the  unexplored  region  beyond,  had  induced 
them  to  take  a  more  northern  and  circuitous 
route  by  way  of  the  Sweet  Water  pass  and 
Fort  Hall.  They  had  still  between  them 
and  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento  a  great 
mass  of  mountains,  forming  the  Sierra  iVe- 
vada,  here  commonly  known  as  the  Oreat 
California  mountain,  and  which  were  at  this 
time  considered  as  presenting  an  impracti- 
cable barrier  to  wheeled  carriages.  Various 
considerations  had  suggested  to  them  a  divi- 
sion of  the  party ;  and  a  greater  portion  of 
the  camp,  including  the  wagons,  with  the 
mail  and  other  stores,  were  now  proceeding 
under  the  guidance  of  Mr.  Joseph  Walker, 
who  had  engaged  to  conduct  them,  by  a  long 
■weep  to  the  southward,  around  what  is 


called  the  point  of  the  mountain ;  and,  cross 
ing  througli  a  pass  known  only  to  himself, 
gain  the  banks  of  the  Sacramento  by  the 
valley  of  the  San  Joaquin.  It  was  a  long 
and  a  hazardous  journey  for  a  party  in  which 
there  were  women  and  children.  Sixty 
days  was  the  shortest  period  of  time  in  whicli 
thev  could  reach  the  point  of  the  mountain, 
and  their  route  lay  through  a  country  inhab- 
ited by  wild  and  badly  disposed  Indians,  and 
very  poor  in  game ;  but  the  leader  was  a 
man  possessing  great  and  intimate  know- 
ledge of  the  Indians,  with  an  extraordinary 
firmness  and  decision  of  character.  In  the 
meantime,  Mr.  Chiles  had  passed  down  the 
Columbia  with  a  party  of  ten  or  twelve  rnen, 
with  the  intention  of  reaching  the  settle- 
ments on  the  Sacramento  by  a  more  direct 
course,  which  indefinite  information  from 
hunters  had  indicated  in  the  direction  of  the 
head  waters  of  the  Ritiire  atu:  Malheurs ; 
and  having  obtained  there  a  reinforcement 
of  animals,  and  a  supply  of  provissions,  meet 
the  wagons  before  they  should  have  reached 
the  point  of  the  mountain,  at  a  place  which 
had  been  previously  agreed  upon.  In  the 
course  of  our  narrative,  we  shall  be  able  to 
give  you  some  information  of  the  fortune 
which  attended  the  movements  of  Ihese  ad- 
venturous travellers. 

Having  discovered  our  error,  we  imme- 
diately regained  llie  line  along  the  river, 
which  the  road  quitted  about  noon,  and  en- 
camped at  5  o'clock  on  a  stream  called  Raft 
river  (Rimire  aux  Cajeux),  having  travelled 
only  13  miles.  In  the  north,  the  Salmon 
river  mountains  are  visible  at  a  very  fax 
distance ;  and  on  the  left,  the  ridge  in  which 
Raft  river  beads  is  about  20  miles  distant, 
rocky,  and  tolerably  high.  Thermometer  at 
sunset  44°,  with  a  partially  clouded  sky,  and 
a  sharp  wind  from  tlie  Sw. 

September  27. — It  was  now  no  longer  pos- 
sible, as  in  our  previous  journey,  to  travel 
regularly  every  clay,  and  find  at  any  moment 
a  convenient  place  for  repose  at  noon  or  a 
camp  at  night ;  but  the  halting  places  were 
BOW  generally  fixed  along  the  road,  by  the 
nature  of  the  country,  at  places  where,  with 
water,  there  was  a  little  scanty  grass.  Since 
leaving  the  American  falls,  the  road  had  fre- 
quently been  very  bad;  the  many  short, 
steep  ascents,  exhausting  the  strength  of  our 
worn-out  animals,  requiring  always  at  such 
places  the  assistance  of  the  men  to  get  up 
each  cart,  one  by  oiip;  and  our  progress 
with  twelve  or  foiirti  i  u  wheeled  carriages, 
though  light  and  made  for  the  purpose,  in 
such  a  rocky  country,  was  extremely  slow ; 
and  I  again  determined  tc  gain  time  by  a  di- 
vision of  the  camp.  Acconlingly,  to-aay  the 
parties  again  separated,  constituted  very 
much  as  before — Mr.  Fitzpatrick  remaining 
in  charge  of  the  heavier  baggage. 


Ul 


k   'tmSlils'' 


ifsr^S^ff^- 


■■"flgr.'!!  r.vr 


^'-■-.'•.",5»<r.*..>,,v,»,^ 


S. 


[184S 


1843.] 


CAPT   FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


91 


f  the  mountain ;  and,  cross 
ss  known  only  to  himself, 
of  the  Sacramento  by  the 
n  Joaquin.  It  was  a  long 
journey  for  a  party  in  which 
len  and  children.  Sixty 
rtest  period  of  time  in  whicl. 
the  point  of  the  mountain, 
ly  through  a  country  inhab- 
badly  disposed  Indians,  and 
me ;  but  the  leader  was  a 
great  and  intimate  know- 
ans,  with  an  extraordinary 
i»1on  of  character.  In  the 
/lilies  had  passed  down  the 
party  of  ten  or  twelve  men, 
3n  of  reaching  the  settle- 
sramento  by  a  more  direct 
ndefinite  information  from 
;ated  in  the  direction  of  the 
[he  Ritiire  aux  Malheurs ; 
ined  there  a  reinforcement 
.  supply  of  proviisions,  meet 
e  they  should  have  reached 
mountain,  at  a  place  which 
usly  agreed  upon.  In  the 
rrative,  we  shall  be  able  to 
information  of  the  fortune 
the  movements  of  these  ad- 
ers. 

^ered  our  error,  we  imme- 

!  the  line  along  the  river, 

uitted  about  noon,  and  en- 

Qck  on  a  stream  called  Raft 

'X  Cajeux),  having  travelled 

In  the  north,  the  Salmon 

are  visible  at  a  very  fax 

the  left,  the  ridge  in  which 

is  about  20  miles  distant, 

bly  high.    Thermometer  at 

a  partially  clouded  sky,  and 

m  the  SW . 

It  was  now  no  longer  pos- 
previous  journey,  to  travel 
lay,  and  find  at  any  moment 
:e  for  repose  at  noon  or  a 
but  the  halting  places  were 
xed  along  the  road,  by  the 
intry,  at  places  where,  with 
a  little  scanty  grass.  Since 
rican  falls,  the  road  had  fre- 
!ry  bad ;  the  many  short, 
hausting  the  strength  of  our 
requiring  always  at  such 
ance  of  the  men  to  get  up 
by  one;  and  our  progress 
burti  i  II  wheeled  carriages, 
1  made  for  the  purpose,  in 
intry,  was  extreme! v  slow ; 
rmined  tc  gain  time  by  a  di- 
ip.  Acconlingly,  to-day  the 
eparated,  constituted  very 
-Mr.  Fitzpatrick  remaining 
heavier  baggage. 


The  morning  was  calm  and  clear,  with  a 
white  frost,  and  the  temperature  at  sunrise 
24". 

To-day  the  country  had  a  very  forbidding 
appearance ;  and,  after  travelling  20  miles 
over  a  slightly  undulating  plain,  we  en- 
camped at  a  considerable  spring,  called 
Swamp  creek,  rising  in  low  grounds  near 
the  pomt  of  a  spur  from  the  mountain.  Re- 
turning with  a  small  party  in  a  starving  con- 
dition from  the  westward  12  or  14  years 
since,  Carson  had  met  here  three  or  four 
bufialo  bulls,  two  of  which  were  killed. 
They  were  among  the  pioneers  which  had 
made  the  experiment  of  colonizing  in  the 
valley  of  the  Columbia,  and  which  had 
failed,  as  heretofore  stated.  At  sunset  the 
thermometer  was  at  46*,  and  the  evening 
was  overcast,  with  a  cold  wind  from  the 
SE.,  and  to-night  we  had  only  sage  for  fire 
wood.  Mingled  with  the  artemisia  was  a 
shrubby  and  thorny  chenopodiaceous  plant. 

September  28. — Thermometer  at  sunrise 
40*.  The  wind  rose  early  to  a  gale  from 
the  west,  with  a  very  cold  driving  rain ;  and, 
after  an  uncomfortable  day's  ride  of  25  miles, 
we  were  glad  when  at  evening  we  found  a 
Bheltered  camp,  where  there  was  an  abun- 
dance of  wood,  at  some  elevated  rocky  is- 
lands covered  with  cedar,  near  the  com- 
mencement of  another  long  caiHon  of  the 
river.  With  the  exception  of  a  short  deten- 
tion at  a  deep  little  stream  called  Goose 
creek,  and  some  occasional  rocky  places,  we 
had  to-day  a  very  good  road ;  but  the  coun- 
try has  a  barren  appearance,  sandy,  and 
densely  covered  with  the  artemisias  from  the 
banks  of  the  river  to  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains. Here  I  remarked,  among  the  sage 
bushes,  green  bunches  of  what  is  called  uie 
eecond  growth  of  grass.  The  river  to-day 
has  haci  a  smooth  appearance,  free  from 
rapids,  with  a  low,  santly  hill  slope  bordering 
the  bottoms,  in  which  tliere  is  a  little  good 
soil.  Thermometer  at  sunset  45°,  blowing 
a  gale,  and  disagreeably  cold. 

September  29. — The  thermometer  at  sun- 
rise 36^,  with  a  bright  sun,  and  appearance 
of  finer  weather.  "The  road  for  several  miles 
was  extremely  rocky,  and  consequently  bad ; 
but,  entering  after  this  a  sandy  country,  it 
became  very  good,  with  no  other  interrup- 
tion than  the  sage  bushes,  which  covered  the 
river  plain  so  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and, 
with  their  uniform  tint  of  dark  grey,  gave  to 
tiie  country  a  gloomy  and  sombre  appear- 
ance. All  the  day  the  course  of  the  river 
has  been  between  walls  of  the  black  volca- 
nic rock,  a  dark  ^in'S  of  the  escarpment  on 
the  opposite  side  pointing  out  its  course,  and 
Bwcepmg  along  in  foam  at  places  where  the 
mountains  which  border  the  valley  present 
always  on  the  left  two  ranges,  the  lower  one 
t  spur  of  the  higher ;  and,  on  the  opposite 

7 


side,  the  Salmon  river  mountains  are  visible 
at  a  great  distance.  Having  made  24  miles, 
we  encamped  about  6  o'cIock  on  Rock  creek 
— a  stream  having  considerable  water,  &  swift 
current,  and  wooded  with  willow. 

September  30. — Thermometer  at  sunrise 
28°.  In  its  progress  towards  the  river,  this 
creek  soon  enters  a  chasm  of  the  volcanic 
rock,  which  in  places  along  the  wall  presents 
a  columnar  appearance;  and  the  road  be- 
comes extremely  rocky  whenever  it  passes 
near  its  banks.  It  is  only  about  twenty  feet 
wide  where  the  road  crosses  it,  with  a  deep 
bed,  and  steep  banks,  covered  with  rocky 
fragments,  with  willows  and  a  little  grass  on 
its  narrow  bottom.  The  soil  appears  to  be 
full  of  calcareous  matter,  with  which  the 
rocks  are  incrusted.  The  fragments  of  rock 
which  had  been  removed  by  the  emigrants 
in  making  a  road  where  we  ascendea  from 
the  bed  of  this  creek  were  whitened  with 
lime ;  and  during  the  afternoon's  march  I  re- 
marked in  the  soil  a  considerable  quantity  of 
calcareous  concretions.  Towards  evening 
the  sages  became  more  sparse,  and  the  clear 
spaces  were  occupied  by  tufts  of  green  grass. 
The  river  still  continued  its  course  through 
a  trough  or  opn  caSon  ;  and  towards  sunset 
we  followed  tne  trail  of  several  wagons  which 
had  tunied  in  towards  Snake  river,  and  en- 
camped, as  they  had  done,  on  the  top  of  the 
escarpment.  There  was  no  grass  here,  the 
soil  among  the  sage  being  entirely  naked ; 
but  there  is  occasionally  a  little  bottom  along 
the  river,  which  a  short  ravine  of  rocks,  at 
rare  intervals,  leaves  accessible ;  and  by  one 
of  these  we  drove  our  animals  down,  and 
found  some  tolerably  good  grass  bordering 
the  water. 

Immediately  opposite  to  us,  a  subterranean 
river  bursts  out  directly  from  the  face  of  the 
escarpment,  and  falls  in  white  foam  to  the 
river  below.  The  main  river  is  enclosed 
with  mural  precipices,  which  form  its  charac- 
teristic feature  along  a  great  portion  of  ita 
course.  A  melancholy  and  strange-looking 
country — one  of  fracture,  and  violence,  and 
fire. 

We  had  brought  with  us,  when  we  sepa- 
rated from  the  camp,  a  lar^e  gaunt  ox,  in  ap- 
pearance very  poor;  but,  being  killed  to-night, 
to  the  great  ]oy  of  the  people,  he  was  found 
to  be  remarkably  fat.  As  usual  at  such  oc- 
currences, the  evening  was  devoted  to  gaiety 
and  feasting;  abundant  fare  now  made  an 
epoch  among  us ;  and  in  this  laborious  life, 
in  such  a  country  as  this,  our  men  had  but 
little  else  to  enjoy.  The  temperature  at  sun- 
set was  66°,  with  a  clear  sky  and  a  very  high 
wind.  By  the  observation  of  the  evening, 
the  encampment  was  in  longitude  1 14°  2b' 
04",  and  in  latitude  42°  38'  44". 

October  1. — The  morning  clear,  wi;h  winrt' 
from  the  west,  and  the  thermometer  at  bC^ 


..s_ ...  iu>wi!!SS*S""V' 


f 


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h 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[I9a. 


Wo  deeccndud  to  tlie  bottom,  taking  with  ne 
the  boat,  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the  tall 
in  the  opposite  clii& ;  and  wliilc  it  was  being 
filled  with  air,  we  occupied  ourselves  in 
measuring  the  river,  which  is  1,786  feet  in 
breadth,  with  banks  200  feet  high.  We 
were  surprised,  on  our  arrival  at  the  opposite 
side,  to  tiiid  a  beautiful  tmsin  of  clear  water, 
formed  by  the  falling  river,  around  which 
tlie  rocks  were  whitened  by  some  saline  In- 
crustation. Here  the  Indians  had  construct- 
ed wicker  dams,  aiihough  I  was  informed 
that  the  salmon  do  not  ascend  the  river  so 
far ;  and  its  character  below  would  apparently 
render  it  impracticable. 

The  ascent  of  the  steep  hill  side  was  ren- 
dered a  little  difficult  by  a  dense  growth  of 
shrubs  and  fields  of  cane ;  and  there  were 
frequent  hidden  crevices  among  the  rocks, 
where  the  water  was  heard  rushing  below ; 
but  we  succeeded  in  reaching  the  main 
stream,  which,  issuing  from  between  strata 
of  the  trap  rock  in  two  principal  branches, 
produced  almost  immediately  a  torrent,  22 
feet  wide,  and  white  with  foam.  It  is  a  pic- 
turesque spot  of  singular  beauty ;  overshaded 
bv  bushes,  from  under  which  the  torrent 
glances,  tumbling  into  the  white  basin  below 
where  the  clear  water  contrasted  beautifully 
with  the  muddy  stream  of  the  river.  Its  out- 
let was  covered  with  a  rank  growth  of  canes, 
and  a  variety  of  unusual  plants,  and  nettles 
(urttca  canabina),  which,  before  they  were 
noticed,  had  set  our  hands  and  arms  on  fire. 
The  temperature  of  the  spring  was  68°, 
while  that  of  the  river  was  61°.  The  per- 
pendicular height  of  the  place  at  which  this 
stream  issues  is  46  feet  above  the  river,  and 
162  feet  below  the  summit  of  the  precipice, 
making  nearly  200  feet  for  the  height  of  the 
wall.  On  the  hill  side  here,  was  obtained  a 
specimen  consisting  principally  of  fragments 
of  the  shells  of  small  Crustacea,  ancTwhich 
was  probably  formed  by  deposition  from  these 
springs  proceeding  from  some  lake  or  river 
in  the  highlands  above. 

We  resumed  our  joumev  at  noon,  the  day 
being  hot  and  bright ;  and,  after  a  march  of 
17  miles,  encamped  at  sunset  on  the  river, 
near  several  lodges  of  Snake  Indians. 

Our  encampment  was  about  one  mile  be- 
low the  Fishing  falls,  a  series  of  cataracts 
with  very  inclined  planes,  which  are  proba- 
bly so  named  because  they  form  a  barrier  to 
die  ascent  of  the  salmon ;  and  the  great  fishe- 
ries from  which  the  inhabitants  of  this  bar- 
ren region  almost  entirely  derive  a  subsist- 
snce  commence  at  this  place.  These  ap- 
peared to  be  unusually  gay  savages,  fond  of 
loud  laughter ;  and,  in  their  apparent  good 
nature  and  merry  character,  struck  me  as 
being  entirely  diircrent  from  the  Indians  we 
had  been  accustomed  to  see.  From  several 
who  visit<Hl  cur  camp  in  the  evening,  we  pur- 


chased, in  exchange  for  goods,  dried  salmon. 
At  this  season  they  are  not  very  fat,  but  we 
were  easily  pleased.  The  Indians  made  ua 
comprehend,  that  when  the  salmon  came  up 
the  river  in  the  spring,  they  are  so  abundant 
that  they  nierely  throw  in  their  spears  at  ran- 
dom, certain  of  bringing  out  a  fish. 

These  poor  people  are  but  slightly  pro- 
vided  with  winter  clothing ;  there  is  but  lit- 
tle gamd  to  furnish  skins  for  the  purpose ; 
and  of  a  little  animal  which  seemed  to  be  the 
most  numerous,  it  required  20  skins  to  make 
a  covering  to  the  knees.  But  they  are  still 
a  joyous  talkative  race,  who  grow  fat  and  be- 
come poor  witli  the  salmon,  which  at  least 
never  fail  them — the  dried  being  used  in  the 
absence  of  the  fresh.  We  are  encamped 
immediately  on  the  river  bank,  and  with  the 
salmon  jumping  up  out  of  the  water,  and  In- 
dians paddling  about  in  boats  made  of  rushes, 
or  laughing  around  the  fires,  the  camp  to- 
night has  quite  a  lively  appearance. 

The  river  at  this  place  is  more  open  than 
for  some  distance  above ;  and,  for  the  time, 
the  black  precipices  have  disappeared,  and 
no  calcareous  matter  is  visible  in  the  soil. 
The  thermometer  at  sunset  74° ;  clear  and 
calm. 

Oclober  2. — ^The  sunrise  temperature  was 
48" ;  the  weather  clear  and  calm.  Shortly  af- 
ter leaving  the  encampment,  we  crossed  a 
stream  of  clear  water,  with  a  variable  breadth 
of  10  to  26  yards,  broken  by  rapids,  and  light- 
ly wooded  with  willow,  and  having  a  Ittle 
grass  on  its  small  bottom  land.  The  bar- 
renness of  the  country  is  in  fine  contrast  to- 
day with  the  mingled  beauty  and  grandeur 
of  the  river,  which  is  more  open  than 
hitherto,  with  a  constant  succession  of  falls 
and  rapids.  Over  the  edge  of  the  black 
clifis,  and  out  from  their  laces,  are  falling 
numberless  streams  and  springs ;  and  all 
the  line  of  the  river  is  in  motion  with  the 
play  of  the  water.  In  about  seven  miles  we 
reached  the  most  beautiful  and  picturesque 
fall  I  had  seen  on  the  river. 

On  the  opposite  side,  the  vertical  fall  is 
perhaps  18  feet  high;  and  nearer,  the  sheet 
of  foaming  water  is  divided  and  broken  into 
cataracts,  where  several  little  islands  on  the 
brink  and  in  the  river  above  give  it  much 
picturesque  beauty,  and  make  it  one  of  those 
places  tlie  traveller  turns  again  and  again  to 
fix  in  his  memory.  There  were  several 
lodses  of  Indians  here,  from  whom  we  tra- 
dea  salmon.  Below  this  place  the  river 
makes  a  remarkable  bend ;  and  the  road, 
ascending  the  ridge,  gave  ns  a  fine  view  of 
the  river  below,  intersected  at  many  places 
by  BumerouF  fish  dams.  In  the  north,  about 
60  mit>>r  diftant,  were  some  high  raowy 
peaks  01  the  Salmon  river  mountains ;  and 
in  the  noriiicdist,  the  last  peak  of  the  rang* 
was  visible  at  the  distance  of  perhaps  100 


mm 


HI 


1  ■-*■»>  in**' 


e  for  goods,  dried  salmcD. 
f  are  not  very  fat,  but  mt 
The  Indians  made  us 
irhen  the  ealmon  came  up 
ing,  they  are  so  abundant 
row  in  tiieir  spears  at  ran* 
nging  out  a  fish, 
pfe  are  but  slightly  pro- 
clothing  ;  there  is  but  lit- 
I  skins  for  the  purpose; 
al  which  seemed  to  oe  the 
rcciuired  20  skins  to  make 
tnces.    But  they  are  still 
•ace,  who  grow  fat  and  be- 
e  salmon,  which  at  least 
he  dried  being  used  in  the 
■esh.     We  are  encamped 
e  river  bank,  and  with  the 
p  out  of  the  water,  and  In- 
lut  in  boats  made  of  rushes, 
id  the  fires,  the  camp  to- 
ively  appearance, 
is  place  is  more  open  than 
above ;  and,  for  the  time, 
;es  have  disappeared,  and 
iter  is  visible  in  the  soil, 
at  sunset  74° ;  clear  and 

le  sunrise  temperature  was 
clear  and  calm.  Shortly  at 
ncampment,  we  crossed  a 
iter,  with  a  variable  breadth 
broken  by  rapids,  and  light- 
villow,  and  having  a  ittle 
II  bottom  land.  Tlie  bar- 
mntry  is  in  fine  contrast  to- 
leled  beauty  and  grandeur 
rnich  is  more  open  than 
sonstant  succession  of  falls 
er  the  edge  of  the  black 
cm  their  faces,  are  falling 
uma  and  springs ;  and  all 
ver  is  in  motion  with  the 
r.  In  about  seven  miles  we 
t  beautiful  and  picturesque 
a  the  river. 

to  side,  the  vertical  fall  is 
bish ;  and  nearer,  the  sheet 
r  IS  divided  and  broken  into 
several  little  islands  on  the 
e  river  above  give  it  much 
ity,  and  make  it  one  of  those 
Her  turns  again  and  again  to 
jory.  There  were  several 
IB  here,  from  whom  we  tra- 
Below  this  place  the  river 
kable  bend ;  and  the  road, 
-idge,  gave  us  a  fine  view  of 
intersected  at  many  places 
h  dams.  In  the  north,  about 
nt,  were  some  high  snowy 
Inion  river  mountains;  and 
,  the  last  peak  of  the  range 
he  distance  of  perhaps  100 


in43.J 


CAFT.  FRHMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


milos  or  more.  The  river  hills  consist  of 
very  broken  masses  of  sand,  coverctl  every- 
where with  the  same  interminable  fields  of 
sage,  and  occasionally  the  road  is  very  heavy. 
\\^  now  very  frequently  saw  Indians,  wlio 
were  strung  along  the  river  at  every  little 
rapid  where  fish  are  to  be  caught,  and  the 
cry  haggai,  haggai  (fish),  was  constantly 
heard  whenever  we  passed  near  their  huts, 
or  met  them  in  the  road.  Very  many  of 
them  were  oddly  and  partially  dressed  in 
overcoat,  shirt,  waistcoat,  or  pantaloons,  or 
whatever  article  of  clothing  they  had  been 
able  to  procure  in  trade  from  the  emigrants ; 
for  we  had  now  entirely  quitted  the  country 
where  hawk's  bells,  beads,  and  vermilion, 
were  the  current  coin,  and  found  that  here 
only  useful  articles,  and  chiefly  clothing, 
were  in  great  request.  These,  however,  are 
eagerly  sought  after ;  and  for  a  few  trifling 
pieces  of  clothing,  travellers  may  procure 
food  sufficient  to  carry  them  to  the  Colum- 
bia. 

We  made  a  long  stretch  across  the  upper 
plain,  and  encamped  on  the  blufT,  where  the 
^rass  was  very  green  and  good ;  the  soil  of 
the  upper  plains  containing  a  considerable 
proportion  of  calcareous  matter.  This  green 
Iroshness  of  the  grass  was  very  remarkable 
For  the  season  of  the  year.  Aeain  we  heard 
the  roar  of  a  fall  in  the  river  oelow,  where 
the  water  in  an  unbroken  volume  goes  over 
a  descent  of  several  feet.  The  night  is 
clear,  and  the  weather  continues  very  warm 
nnd  pleasant,  with  a  sunset  temperature  of 
70». 

October  3. — ^The  morning  'vas  pleasant, 
with  a  temperature  at  sunrise  of  42°.  The 
road  was  broken  by  ravines  among  the  hills, 
and  in  one  of  these,  which  made  the  bed  of 
a  dry  creek,  I  found  a  fragmentary  stratum, 
or  brecciated  conglomerate,  consisting  of 
flinty  slate  pebbles,  with  fragments  of  lime- 
stone containing  fossil  shells. 

On  the  left,  the  mountains  are  visible  at 
the  distance  of  twenty  or  thirty  miles,  ap- 
pearing smootli  and  rather  low ;  but  at  in- 
tervals higher  peaks  look  out  from  beyond, 
and  indicate  that  the  main  ridge,  which  we 
are  leaving  with  the  course  of  the  river,  p.uu 
which  forms  the  northern  boundary  of  the 
Great  Basin,  still  maintains  its  elevation. 
About  two  o'clock  we  arrived  at  the  ford 
where  the  road  crosses  to  the  right  bank  of 
Snake  river.  An  Indian  was  hired  to  con- 
duct us  through  the  ford,  which  proved  im- 
practicable fo*  us,  the  water  sweeping  away 
tlie  howitzer  and  nearly  drowning  the  mules, 
which  we  were  obliged  to  extricate  by  cut- 
ting them  out  of  the  harness.  The  river 
here  is  expanded  into  a  little  bav,  in  whicb 
there  are  two  islands,  across  which  is  the 
road  of  the  ford;  and  the  emigrants  had 
passed  by  placing  two  of  tlicir  heavy  wag- 


gons abreast  of  each  other,  so  as  to  oppos« 
a  coHHiderable  mass  against  the  body  of 
water.  The  Indians  informed  us  that  one 
of  the  men,  in  attempting  to  turn  som« 
cattle  which  had  taken  a  wrong  direction, 
was  curried  off  by  the  current  and  drowned. 
Since  their  passage,  the  water  had  risen 
considerably ;  but,  fortunately,  we  had  a 
resource  in  a  boat,  which  was  filled  with  air 
and  launched ;  and  at  seven  o'clock  we  were 
safely  encamped  on  the  opposite  bank,  the 
animals  swimming  across,  and  the  carriage, 
howitzer,  and  baggage  of  the  camp,  being 
carried  over  in  the  boat.  At  the  place 
where  we  crossed,  above  the  islands,  the 
river  had  narrowed  to  a  breadth  of  1,049 
feet  by  measurement,  the  greater  portion  of 
which  was  from  six  to  eight  feet  deep.  We 
were  obliged  to  make  our  camp  where  we 
landed,  among  the  Indian  lodges,  which 
are  semi-circular  huts  made  of  willow, 
thatched  over  with  straw,  and  open  to  the 
sunny  south.  By  observation,  tne  latitude 
of  our  encampment  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  river  was  42°  65'  68" ;  cnronometric 
longitude  115°  04'  46",  and  the  travelled 
distance  from  Fort  Hall  208  miles. 

October  4. — Calm  pleasant  day,  with  the 
thermometer  at  sunrise  at  47".  Leaving 
the  river  at  a  considerable  distance  to  the 
left,  and  following  up  the  bed  of  a  rocky 
creek,  with  occasional  holes  of  water,  in 
about  six  miles  we  ascended,  by  a  long  and 
rather  steep  hill,  to  a  plain  600  feet  above 
the  river,  over  which  we  continued  to  travel 
during  the  day,  having  a  broken  ridge  *2,000 
or  3,000  feet  high  on  the  right  The  plain 
terminates,  where  we  ascended,  in  an  es- 
carpment of  vesicular  trap  rock,  which  sup- 
plies the  fragments  of  the  creek  below.  Tlic 
sky  clouded  over,  with  a  strong  wind  from 
the  northwest,  with  a  few  drops  of  rain  and 
occasional  sunlight,  threatening  a  change. 

Artemisia  stilF  covers  the  plain,  but  Pur- 
shia  tridentata  makes  its  appearance  here  on 
the  hill  sides  and  on  bottoms  of  the  creeks 
-  .ite  a  tree  in  size,  and  larger  than  the 
anemisia.  We  crossed  several  hollown 
with  a  little  water  in  them,  and  improved 
grass ;  and,  turning  off  from  the  road  in  the 
afternoon  in  search  of  water,  travelled  about 
ti.ree  miles  up  the  bed  of  a  willow  creek, 
towards  the  mountain,  and  found  a  good 
encampment,  with  wood  and  grass,  and  little 
ponds  of  water  in  the  bed  of  the  creek; 
which  must  be  of  more  importance  at  other 
seasons,  as  we  found  there  several  old  fix- 
tures for  fishing.  There  were  many  holes 
on  the  creek  prairie,  which  had  been  made 
by  the  diggers  in  search  of  roots. 

Wind  increased  to  a  vident  gale  from  the 
N.W.,  with  a  temperature  at  sunset  of  67*. 

October  6. — ^The  morning  was  calm  and 
clear,  and  at  sunrise  the  uermomoter  ww 


,. 


M 


w 


->/• 


JOO 


ry«'.«M'>*-»*-^  ^f^'^^^Hf"  y^  WV^'ft,-.*-  ' 


CAPT,  FlftEMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1848. 


at  32°.  The  road  to-dav  was  occasionally 
extremely  rocky,  with  hard  volcanic  frag- 
ments,  and  our  travelling  very  slow.  In 
about  nine  miles  the  road  brought  us  to  a 
group  of  smoking  hot  springs,  with  a  tem- 
perature  of  164'.  There  were  a  few  heli- 
anthi  in  bloom,  with  some  other  low  plants, 
and  the  place  was  green  round  about ;  the 
ground  warm,  and  the  air  pleasant,  with  a 
summer  atmosphere  that  was  very  grateful 
in  a  day  of  high  and  cold  searching  wind. 
The  rocks  were  covered  with  a  white  and 
red  incrustation ;  and  the  water  has  on  the 
tongue  the  same  unpleasant  effect  as  that  of 
the  Basin  spring  on  Bear  river.  They  form 
several  branches,  and  bubble  up  with  force 
enough  to  raise  the  small  pebbles  several 
inches. 

The  following  is  an  analysis  of  the  depo- 
sit with  which  uie  rocks  are  incrusted : 


Analytw. 
Silica         ... 
Carbonate  of  lime 
Carbonate  of  magnesia 
Oxide  of  iron 
Alumina     ... 
Chloride  of  sodium,  &c. 
Sulphate  of  soda 
Sulphate  of  lime,  &c. 
Organic  vegetable  matter 
Water  and  loss 


72.6S 

14.60 

1.20 

4.65 

0.70 

1.10 

6.20 

100.00 


These  springs  are  near  the  foot  of  the  ridge 
(a  dark  and  rugged  looking  mountain),  in 
which  some  of  the  nearer  rocks  have  a  red- 
dish appearance,  and  probably  consist  of  a 
r?ddisn-brown  trap,  fragments  of  which  were 
scattered  along  the  rcmd  after  leaving  the 
spring.  The  road  was  now  about  to  cross 
the  point  of  this  mountain,  which  we  judged 
to  be  a  spur  from  the  Salmon  river  range.  We 
crossed  a  small  creek,  and  encampM  about 
sunset  on  a  stream,  which  is  probably  Lake 
river.  This  is  a  small  stream,  some  five  or 
six  feet  broad,  with  a  swift  current,  timbered 
principally  with  willows  and  some  few  cot- 
tonwcKxIs.  Along  the  banks  were  canes, 
rose  bushes,  and  clematis,  with  Purshia  tri- 
dentata  and  artemisias  on  the  upper  bottom. 
The  sombre  appearance  of  the  country  is 
■omewhat  relieved  in  coming  unexpectedly 
from  the  dark  rocks  upon  these  green  and 
wooded  watercourses,  sunk  in  chsBms ;  and, 
in  the  spring,  the  contrasted  effect  must  make 
them  b^^autiful. 

The  thermometer  at  sunset  47^,  and  the 
night  threatening  snow. 

October  6. — Tlie  morning  warm,  the  ther- 
mometer 46°  at  sunrise,  and  sky  entirely 
elouded.    After  travelling  about  three  miles 


over  an  extremely  rocky  road,  the  volcanic 
fragments  began  to  disappear ;  and,  entering 
among  the  hills  at  t)ie  point  of  the  mountain, 
we  found  ourselves  suddenly  in  a  granite 
country.  Here,  the  character  of  the  vege- 
tation was  very  much  changed ;  the  artemisia 
disappeared  almost  entirely,  showing  only  at 
intervals  towards  the  close  of  the  day,  and 
was  replaced  by  Purshia  tridentata,  with  flow- 
ering shrubs,  and  small  fields  of  iteferta  divari- 
cata,  which  gave  bloom  and  gaiety  to  the  hills. 
These  were  everywhere  covered  with  a  fresh 
and  green  short  grass,  like  that  of  the  early 
spring.  This  is  the  fall  or  iiecond  growth, 
the  dried  grass  having  been  burnt  oft  by  the 
Indians ;  and  wherever  the  fire  hos  passed, 
the  bright-green  color  is  universal.  The  soil 
among  the  hills  is  altogether  different  from 
that  of  the  river  plain,  Ming  in  many  places 
black,  in  others  sandy  and  gravwlly,  but  of  a 
firm  and  good  character,  appearing  to  result 
from  the  decomposition  of  tne  granite  rocks, 
which  is  proceeding  rapidly. 

In  quitting  for  a  time  the  artemisia  (sage) 
through  which  we  had  been  so  long  voyag- 
ing, and  the  sombre  appearance  of  which  is 
so  discouraging,  I  have  to  remark,  that  I 
have  been  informed  that  in  Mexico  wheat  is 
grown  upon  the  ground  which  produces  this 
shrub ;  which,  if  true,  relieves  the  soil  from 
the  character  of  sterility  imputed  to  it.  Be 
this  as  it  may,  there  is  no  dispute  about  the 
grass,  which  is  almost  universal  on  the  hills 
and  mountains,  and  always  nutritious,  even 
in  its  dry  state.  We  passed  on  the  way 
masses  of  granite  on  the  slope  of  a  spur, 
which  was  very  much  weatliered  and  abrad- 
ed. This  is  a  white  feldspathic  granite,  with 
small  scales  of  black  mica ;  smoky  quartz 
and  garnets  appear  to  constitute  this  portion 
of  the  mountain. 

The  road  at  noon  reached  a  broken  ridge, 
on  which  were  scattered  many  boulders  or 
blocks  of  granite ;  and,  passing  very  small 
streams,  where,  with  a  little  more  than  the 
usual  timber,  was  sometimes  gathered  a  little 
wildemesd  of  plants,  we  encamped  on  a 
small  stream,  after  a  march  of  22  miles,  in 
company  with  a  few  Indians.  Temperature 
at  sunset  51° ;  and  the  night  was  partially 
clear,  with  a  few  stars  visible  through  drift- 
ing white  clouds.  The  Indians  made  an  un- 
successful attempt  to  steal  a  few  horses  from 
us — a  thinff  of  course  with  them,  and  to  pre- 
vent which  the  traveller  is  on  perpetual 
watch. 

October  7. — ^The  day  was  bright,  clear, 

Sleasant,  with  a  temperature  of  4^ ;  and  wo 
reakfastcd  at  suniise,  the  bhrds  singing  in 
the  trees  as  merrily  as  if  we  were  in  the 
midst  of  summer.  On  the  upper  edge  of  the 
hills  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  creek,  the 
black  volcanic  rock  reappears ;  and  ascend- 
ing these,  the  road  passed  through  a  bosio. 


^  »*»^. 


^; 


[184S. 

rocky  road,  the  volctnic 
disappear ;  and,  entering 
the  point  of  the  mountain, 
'8  suddenly  in  a  granite 
le  character  of  the  vege- 
cli  changed ;  the  artemisia 
;  entirely,  showing  only  at 
the  close  of  the  day,  and 
irahia  tridentata,  with  flow- 
mall  fields  oidieleria  divari- 
loom  and  gaiety  to  the  hills. 
where  covered  with  a  fresh 
rasB,  like  that  of  the  early 
the  fall  or  aecond  growth, 
ving  been  burnt  oft  by  the 
irever  the  fire  hoo  passed, 
olor  ia  universal.    The  soil 
is  altogether  different  from 
Jain,  being  in  many  places 
mdy  and  gravelly,  but  of  a 
meter,  appearing  to  result 
tsition  of  the  granite  rocks, 
ng  rapidly. 

a  time  the  artemisia  (sage) 

e  liad  been  so  long  voyag- 

ibre  appearance  of  which  is 

I  have  to  remark,  that  I 

led  that  in  Mexico  wheat  is 

ground  which  produces  this 

'  true,  relieves  the  soil  from 

sterility  imputed  to  it.    Be 

lere  is  no  dispute  about  the 

ilmost  universal  on  the  hills 

and  always  nutritious,  even 

I.    We  passed  on  the  way 

lite  on  the  slope  of  a  spur, 

much  weathered  and  abrad- 

Mte  feldspathic  granite,  with 

black  mica ;   smoky  quartz 

ear  to  constitute  this  portion 

loon  reached  a  broken  ridge, 
scattered  many  boulders  or 

te ;  and,  passing  very  small 
with  a  little  more  than  the 

18  sometimes  gathered  a  little 

Slants,  we  encamped  on  a 
er  a  march  of  22  miles,  in 
1  few  Indians.  Temperature 
and  the  night  was  partia.lly 
jw  stars  visible  through  drift- 
Is.  The  Indians  made  an  un- 
mpt  to  steal  a  few  horses  from 
course  with  them,  and  to  pre- 
le  traveller  is  on  perpetual 

The  day  was  bright,  clear, 
1  temperature  of  46* ;  and  wo 

suniise,  the  birds  singing  in 
nerrily  as  if  we  were  in  the 
er.  On  the  upper  edge  of  the 
pposite  side  ot  the  creek,  the 

rock  reappears ;  and  ascend* 
road  passed  through  a  basio. 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


Itl 


around  which  the  hills  swept  in  such  a  man- 
ner as  to  give  it  the  appearance  of  an  old 
crater.  Here  were  strata  and  broken  beds 
of  black  scoriated  rock,  and  hills  composed 
of  the  same,  on  the  summit  of  one  of  which 
there  was  an  opening  resembling  a  rent. 
We  travelled  to-day  through  a  country  re- 
sembling that  of  yesterday,  where,  although 
the  surface  was  hilly,  the  road  was  good,  w- 
ing  firm,  and  entirely  free  from  rocks  and 
artemisia.  To  our  left,  below,  was  the  great 
sage  plain ;  and  on  the  right  were  the  near 
inountuins,  which  presented  a  smoothly 
broken  character,  or  rather  a  surface  waved 
into  numberless  hills.  The  road  was  occa- 
sionally enl  vened  by  meeting  Indians,  and 
the  day  was  extremely  beautiful  and  pleas- 
ant ;  and  we  were  pleased  to  be  free  from  the 
Hage,  even  for  a  day.  When  we  had  trav- 
elled about  8  milp'j,  we  were  nearly  opposite 
to  the  highest  portion  of  the  mountains  on 
the  left  side  of  the  Smoke  rivet  valley ;  and, 
continuing  on  a  few  miles  bevond,  we  came 
suddenly  in  sight  of  the  broad  green  line  of 
uie  valley  of  the  Riviire  Boisie  (wooded 
river'),  black  near  the  gorge  where  it  de- 
bouches into  the  plains,  with  hieh  precipices 
of  basalt,  between  walls  of  which  it  passes, 
on  emerging  from  the  mountains.  Follow- 
ing with  the  eye  its  upward  course,  it  ap- 
pears to  be  shut  in  among  lofty  mountains, 
confining  its  valley  in  a  very  rugged  country. 

Descending  the  hills,  after  travelling  a  few 
miles  along  the  high  plain,  the  road  brought 
us  down  upon  the  bottoms  of  the  river, 
which  is  a  beautiful  rapid  stream,  with  clear 
mountain  water,  and,  as  the  name  indicates, 
well  wooded  with  some  varieties  of  timber — 
among  which  are  handsome  cottonwoods. 
Such  a  stream  had  become  quite  a  novelty 
in  tliis  conntry,  and  we  were  delighted  this 
afternoon  to  make  a  pleasani  camp  under  fine 
old  trees  again.  There  were  several  Indian 
encampments  scattered  along  the  river ;  and 
a  number  of  their  inhabitants,  in  the  course 
of  the  evening,  came  to  the  camp  on  horse- 
back with  dried  and  fresh  fish  to  trade.  The 
evening  was  clear,  and  the  temperature  at 
sunset  67^. 

At  the  time  of  the  first  occupation  of  this 
region  by  parties  engaged  in  tlie  fur  trade,  a 
timall  party  of  men  under  the  command  of 

Reid,  constituting  all  the  garrison  of  a 

little  fort  on  this  river,  were  surpriseti  and 
massacred  by  the  Indians ;  and  to  this  event 
the  stream  owes  its  occasional  name  oiReid'i 
river.  , 

On  the  8th  we  travelled  about  26  miles,  the 
ridge  on  the  right  having  scattered  pines  on 
the  upper  parts;  and,  continuing  the  next 
day  our  road  along  the  river  bottom,  after  a 
day's  travel  of  24  miles  we  encamped  in  the 
evening  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  a  mile 
above  we  mouth,  and  early  the  next  morning 


arrived  at  Fort  Ihisi.  This  is  a  simple 
dwelling-house  on  the  right  bank  of  Snake 
river,  about  a  mile  below  the  mouth  of 
Riviire  Boissfe;  and  on  our  arrival  we  were 
received  with  an  agreeable  hospitality  by  Mr. 
Payette,  an  officer  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany, in  charge  of  the  fort ;  all  of  whose 
garrison  consisted  in  a  Cana  lian  engaei. 

Here  the  road  recrosses  the  river,  which  is 
broad  and  deep;  but,  with  our  good  boat, 
aided  by  two  canoes,  which  were  found  at  the 
place,  the  camp  was  very  soon  transferred  to 
the  left  bank.  Here  we  found  ourselves 
again  surrounded  by  the  sage ;  artemisia  tri- 
dentata, and  the  different  shrubs  which  during 
our  voyage  had  always  made  their  appear- 
ance abundantly  on  saline  soils,  being  here 
the  prevailing  and  almost  the  only  plants. 
Amr  <«r  th  ,m  the  surface  was  covered  with 
the  usua'  saline  efflorescences,  which  here 
consist  almost  entirely  of  carbonate  of  soda, 
with  a  small  portion  of  chloride  of  sodium. 
Mr.  Payette  had  made  but  slight  attempts 
at  cultivation,  his  efforts  being  limited  t« 
'rising  a  few  vegetables,  in  which  he  sue 
ceeded  tolerably  well ;  the  post  being  princi- 
pally supported  by  salmon.  He  was  very 
hospitable  and  kind  to  us,  and  we  made  a 
sensible  impression  upon  all  his  comestibles ; 
but  our  principal  iMit:ad  was  into  the  dairy, 
which  was  abundantly  supplied,  stock  appear- 
ing to  thrive  extremely  well ;  and  we  had  an 
unusual  luxury  in  a  present  of  fresh  butter, 
which  was,  however,  by  no  means  equal  to 
that  of  Fort  Hall — profiably  from  some  acci- 
dental cause.  During  the  day  we  remained 
here,  there  were  considerable  numbers  of 
miserable  half-naked  Indians  around  the  fort, 
who  had  arrived  from  the  neighboring  moun- 
tains. During  the  summer,  the  only  sub- 
sistence of  these  people  is  derived  from  the 
salmon,  of  which  they  are  not  provident 
enough  to  lay  up  a  sufficient  store  for  the 
winter,  durii.g  which  many  of  them  die  from 
absolute  starvation. 

Many  little  accounts  and  scattered  histo- 
ries, together  with  an  acquaintance  which  I 
graduaUy  acquired  of  their  modes  of  life,  had 
left  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  this  vast  re- 
gion pictured  in  my  mind  as  a  race  of  people 
whose  great  and  constant  occupation  was  the 
means  of  procuring  a  subsistence ;  and  though 
want  of  space,  and  other  reasons,  will  prevent 
me  from  detailing  the  many  incidents  which 
made  these  things  familiar  to  me,  this  great 
feature  among  the  characteristics  of  the 
country  will  gradually  be  forced  upon  your 
mind. 

Pointing  to  a  group  of  Indians  who  had 
just  arrived  from  the  mountains  on  the  left 
side  of  the  valley,  and  who  were  regarding 
our  usual  appliances  of  civilisation  with  an 
air  of  bewildered  curiosity,  Mr.  Payette  in* 
formed  me  that,  every  year  since  his  arriva. 


f 


«,rtW1K»»''r'.'^»">tJ»'r«*»»WS9»)P  . 


'j^-rmn  wp>s?^';s*!fc"gs5- 


M 


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oa:^ 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


♦  -ww^. 


* 


[184S. 


at  this  post,  he  had  unsuccessfully  endeavor- 
ed to  induce  these  people  to  lay  up  a  store 
of  salmon  for  their  winter  provision.  While 
the  summer  weather  and  the  salmon  lasted, 
they  lived  contentedly  and  happily,  scattered 
along  the  different  streams  where  the  fish  were 
to  be  fo\iiid ;  and  as  soon  as  the  winter  snows 
be^an  to  fall,  little  smokes  would  be  seen 
rising  among  the  mountains,  where  they 
would  be  found  in  miserable  groups,  starving 
out  the  winter ;  and  sometimes,  according  to 
the  general  belief,  reduced  to  the  horror  of 
cannibalism — the  strong,  of  course,  preying 
on  the  weak.  Certain  it  is,  they  are  driven 
to  any  extremity  for  food,  and  eat  every  in- 
sect, and  every  creeping  thing,  however 
loathsome  and  repulsive.  Snails,  lizards, 
ants — all  are  devoured  with  the  readiness 
and  greediness  of  mere  animals. 

In  common  with  all  the  other  Indians  we 
had  encountered  since  reaching  the  Pacific 
waters,  these  people  use  the  ishoshonee  or 
Snake  language,  which  you  will  have  occa- 
sion to  remark,  in  the  course  of  the  narra- 
tive, is  the  universal  language  over  a  very 
extensive  region. 

On  the  evening  of  the  10th,  I  obtained, 
with  the  usual  obwsrvations,  a  very  excellent 
emersion  of  the  first  satellite,  agreeing  very 
nearly  with  the  chronometer.  From  these 
observatisns,  the  longitude  of  the  fort  is 
116»  47'  00",  latitude  43°  49'  22",  and 
elevation  above  the  sea  2,100  feet. 

Sitting  by  the  fire  on  the  river  bank,  and 
waiting  for  the  immersion  of  the  satellite, 
which  did  not  take  place  until  after  midnight, 
we  heard  the  monotonous  song  of  the  In- 
dians, with  which  they  accompany  a  certain 
game  of  which  they  are  very  fond.  Of  the 
poetry  we  could  not  judge,  but  the  music  was 
miserable. 

October  11. — ^The  morning  was  clear,  with 
a  light  breeze  from  the  east,  and  a  tempera- 
ture at  sunrise  of  33°.  A  part  of  a  bullock 
purchased  at  the  fort,  together  with  the  boat 
to  assist  him  in  crossing,  was  left  here  for 
Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  and  at  1 1  o'clock  we  re- 
sumed our  journey ;  and  directly  leaving  the 
river,  and  crossing  the  artemisia  plain,  in 
several  ascents  we  reached  the  foot  of  a 
ridge,  where  the  road  entered  a  dry  sandy 
hollow,  up  which  it  continued  to  the  head ; 
and,  crossing  a  dividing  ridge,  entered  a 
similar  one.  We  met  here  two  poor  emi- 
grants (Irishmen),  who  had  lost  their  horses 
two  days  since — probably  stolen  by  the  In- 
dians ;  and  were  returning  to  the  fort,  in 
hopes  to  hear  something  of  them  there. 
They  had  recently  had  nothing  to  eat ;  and  I 
halted  to  unpack  an  animal,  and  gave  them 
meat  for  their  dinner.  In  this  hollow,  the 
artemisia  is  partially  displaced  on  the  hill 
•Mes  by  grass ;  and  descending  it  —  miles, 


about  Bunsbt  we  reached  the  Riviire  aiuc 
Malheurs  (the  unfortunate  or  unlucky  river), 
a  considerable  stream,  with  an  average 
breadth  of  60  feet,  and,  at  this  time,  18  inches 
depth  of  water. 

The  bottom  lands  were  generally  one  and 
a  half  mile  broad,  covered  principally  with 
long  dry  grass ;  and  we  had  difficulty  to  find 
sufficient  good  grass  for  the  camp.  With 
the  exception  of  a  bad  place  of  a  few  hundred 
yards  long,  which  occurred  in  rounding  a 
point  of  hill  to  reach  the  ford  of  the  river, 
the  road  during  the  day  had  been  very  good. 

October  12. — The  morning  was  clear  and 
calm,  and  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  23°. 
My  attention  was  attracted  by  a  smoke  on  the 
rir  ht  side  of  the  river,  a  little  below  the  ford, 
wl  ?re  I  found  on  the  low  bi  ik,  near  the  wa- 
ter a  considerable  number  « "  hot  springs,  in 
wh.M  the  temperature  of  the  water  was  193*. 
The  ground,  which  was  too  hot  for  the  naked 
foot,  was  covered  above  and  below  the  springs 
with  an  incrustation  of  common  salt,  very 
white  and  good,  and  fine-grained. 

Leading  for  6  miles  up  a  broad  dry  branch 
of  the  NIalheurs  river,  the  road  entered  a 
sandy  hollow,  where  the  surface  was  ren- 
dered firm  by  the  admixture  of  other  rock ; 
being  good  and  level  until  arriving  near  the 
head  of  the  ravine,  where  it  became  a  little 
rocky,  and  we  met  with  a  number  of  sharp 
ascents  over  an  undulating  surface.  Cross- 
ing here  a  dividing  ridge,  it  became  an  ex- 
cellent road  of  gradual  descent  down  a  very 
marked  hollow;  in  which,  after  10  miles, 
willows  began  to  appear  in  the  dry  bed  of  a 
head  of  the  Riviire  atix  Btmleaux  (Birch 
river) ;  and  descending  7  miles,  we  found, 
at  its  junction  with  another  branch,  a  little 
water,  not  very  good  or  abundant,  but  suffi- 
cient in  case  of  necessity  for  a  camp.  Cross- 
ing Birch  river,  we  continued  for  about  4 
miles  across  a  point  of  hill ;  the  country  on 
the  left  being  entirely  mountainous,  with  no 
level  spot  to  be  seen  ;  whence  we  descended 
to  Snake  river — here  a  fine-looking  stream, 
with  a  large  body  of  water  and  a  smooth 
current ;  although  we  hear  the  roar,  and  see 
below  us  the  commencement  of  rapids  where 
it  enters  among  the  hills.  It  forms  here  a 
deep  bay,  with  a  low  sand  island  in  the 
midst ;  and  its  course  among  the  mountains 
is  agreeably  exchanged  for  the  black  vol- 
canic rock.  The  weather  during  the  day 
had  been  very  bright  and  extremely  hot; 
but,  as  usual,  so  soon  as  the  sun  went  down, 
it  was  necessary  to  put  on  overcoats. 

I  obtained  this  evening  an  observation  of 
an  emersion  of  the  first  satellite,  and  our  ob- 
servations of  the  evening  place  this  encamp* 
ment  in  latitude  44°  17'  36",  and  longitude 
116*>  fi6'  45",  which  is  the  mean  of  tiie  re- 
sults from  the  satellite  and  chronometer. 


I   »=-•*■. 


[184S. 

rcachod  the  RMire  aiuc 
tunate  or  unlucky  river), 
ream,  with  an  average 
nd,at  this  time,  18  inches 

were  generally  one  and 
covered  principally  with 
'  we  had  difficulty  to  And 
188  for  the  camp.  With 
ad  place  of  a  few  hundred 

occurred  in  rounding  a 
!ich  the  ford  of  the  river, 

day  had  been  very  good. 
e  morning  was  clear  and 
mometer  at  sunrise  23°. 
ttracted  by  a  smoke  on  the 
ter,  a  little  below  the  ford, 
he  low  bi  ik,  near  the  wa- 
number  ( "  hot  springs,  in 
turo  of  the  water  was  193". 
I  was  too  hot  for  the  naked 
hove  and  below  the  springs 
on  of  common  salt,  very 
id  fine-grained, 
iles  up  a  broad  dry  branch 
river,  the  road  entered  a 
ere  the  surface  was  ren- 
idmixture  of  other  rock; 
ie\  until  arriving  near  the 
>,  where  it  became  a  little 
!t  with  a  number  of  sharp 
idulating  surface.    Cross* 
g  ridge,  it  became  an  ex- 
adual  descent  down  a  very 
in  which,  after  10  miles, 
appear  in  the  dry  bed  of  a 
•ire  aux  Bmtleaux  (Birch 
ending  7  miles,  we  found, 
th  another  branch,  a  little 
ood  or  abundant,  bnt  suiii- 
cessity  for  a  camp.    Cross- 
we  continued  for  about  4 
int  of  hill ;  the  country  on 
rely  mountainous,  with  no 
len  ;  whence  we  descended 
lere  a  fine-looking  stream, 
ly  of  water  and  a  smooth 
1  we  hear  the  roar,  and  see 
mencement  of  rapids  where 
:he  hills.    It  forms  here  a 
a  low  sand  island  in  the 
lurse  among  the  mountains 
hanged  for  the  black  vol- 
}  weather  during  the  day 
•right  and  extremely  hot; 
ioon  as  the  sun  went  down, 
to  put  on  overcoats, 
evening  an  observation  of 
e  first  satellite,  and  our  ob" 
evening  place  this  encamp* 
14°  17'  36^',  and  longitude 
fiich  is  the  mean  of  tne  re* 
satellite  and  chronometer. 


IMS.] 


CAPT.  Fnr  MONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


les 


The  elevation  above  the  sea  1 ,880  feet.  At 
this  encampment,  the  grass  is  scanty  and 
poor. 

October  13. — The  momin;  was  bright, 
with  the  temperature  at  sun:  ise  28".  The 
horses  had  strayed  of  during  the  night,  pro- 
bably in  search  of  g  iss  ;  ai  id,  after  a  con- 
siderable delay,  we  had  succeeded  in  finding 
all  but  two,  when,  pbout  9  o'clock,  we  heard 
the  sound  of  an  Indian  song  and  drum  ap- 

f reaching ;  and  shortly  after,  three  Cayuse 
ndians  appeared  in  sight,  bringing  with 
them  the  two  animals.  They  belonged  to  a 
party  which  had  been  on  a  buffalo  hunt  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Rocky  nicntains, 
and  were  hurrying  home  in  advance.  We 
presented  them  with  some  tobacco,  and  other 
things,  witii  whicit  they  appeared  well  satis- 
fied, and,  moderating  their  pace,  travelled  in 
company  with  us. 

We  were  now  about  to  leave  the  valley  of 
the  great  southern  branch  of  the  Columbia 
river,  to  which  the  absence  of  timber,  and 
tlie  scarcity  of  water,  give  the  appearance  of 
a  desert,  to  enter  a  mountainous  region 
where  the  soil  is  good,  and  in  which  the  face 
of  the  country  is  covered  with  nutritious 
grasses  and  dense  forest — land  embracing 
many  varieties  of  trees  peculiar  to  the  coun- 
try, and  on  which  the  timber  exhibits  a  lux- 
uriance of  growth  unknown  to  the  eastern 
part  of  the  continent  and  to  Europe.  This 
mountainous  region  connects  itself  in  the 
southward  and  westward  with  the  elevated 
country  belonging  to  the  Cascade  or  Califor- 
nia nifigo ;  and,  as  will  bo  remarked  in  the 
course  of  the  narrative,  forms  the  eastern 
limit  of  the  fertile  and  timbered  lands  along 
the  desert  and  mountainous  region  included 
within  the  Great  Basin — a  term  which  I  ap- 

Sy  to  the  intermediate  region  between  the 
ocky  mountains  and  the  next  range,  con- 
taining many  lakes,  with  their  own  system 
of  rivers  and  creeks  (of  which  the  Great 
Salt  is  the  principal),  and  which  have  no 
connection  wit!,  the  ocean,  or  the  great 
rivers  which  flow  into  it.  This  Great  Basin 
is  yet  to  be  adequately  explored.  And  iiere, 
on  quitting  the  banks  of  a  sterile  river,  to 
enter  on  arable  mountains,  tiie  remark  may 
be  made,  that,  on  this  western  slope  of  our 
continent,  the  usual  order  or  distribution  of 
good  and  bad  soil  is  oflen  reversed;  the 
river  acJ  creek  bottoms  being  often  sterile, 
and  darkened  with  the  gloomy  aiid  barren 
artemisia ;  while  the  mountain  is  often  fer- 
tile, and  covered  with  rich  grass,  pleasant  to 
the  eye,  and  good  for  flocks  and  herds. 

Leaving  entirely  the  Snake  river,  which 
b  said  nenceforth  to  pursub  its  course 
through  caSons,  amidst  mcky  and  impracti- 
cable mountains,  where  there  is  no  possibili- 
ty of  travelling  with  animals,  we  ascended  a 
rfmg  and  somewhat  steep  hill ;  and  crossing 


the  dividing  ridge,  came  down  into  the  val- 
ley of  Burnt  river,  which  here  looks  like  a 
hole  among  the  l-.ills.  The  average  breadth 
of  tiie  stream  hero  is  30  feet;  it  iu  well 
fringed  with  the  usual  nmall  timber  ;  and  the 
soil  in  the  bottoms  is  gooti,  with  better  grass 
than  we  had  lately  been  accustomed  to  sec. 

We  now  travelled  through  a  very  moun- 
tainous country ;  the  stream  running  rather 
in  a  ravine  than  a  valley,  and  the  i  md  is  de- 
cidedly bad  and  dangerous  fur  si  igle  wa- 
gons, frequently  crossing  the  strea  u  where 
the  wiiter  is  sometimes  deep;  and  all  the 
day  the  animals  were  fatigued  in  climbing 
up  and  descending  a  succession  of  sleep  as- 
cents, to  avoid  the  precipitous  hill  sides; 
and  the  common  trail,  which  leads  along  the 
mountain  side  at  places  where  the  river 
strikes  the  base,  is  sometimes  bad  even  for 
a  horseman.  The  mountains  along  this 
day's  journey  were  composed,  near  the  river, 
of  a  slaty  calcareous  rock  in  a  metamorphic 
condition.  It  appears  originally  to  have 
been  a  slaty  sedimentary  limestone,  but  its 
present  condition  indicates  that  it  has  been 
altered,  and  has  become  partially  crystalline 
— probably  from  the  proximity  of  volcanic 
rocks.  But  though  '.ravelling  was  slow  and 
fatiguing  to  the  aninials,  we  were  delighted 
with  the  appearance  of  the  country,  which 
was  green  and  refreshing  after  our  tedious 
journey  down  the  parched  valley  of  Snake 
river.  The  mountains  we^e  revered  with 
good  bunch  grass  (festuca) ;  the  wat3r  of 
the  streams  was  cold  and  oure ;  their  bot- 
toms were  handsomely  woo'Jed  with  various 
kinds  of  trees ;  and  huge  i  nd  lofty  and  pic- 
turesque precipices  were  displayed  where 
the  river  cut  through  the  mountains. 

We  found  in  the  evening  some  good  grass 
and  rushes ;  and  encamped  among  Targe 
timber,  principally  birch,  which  had  been  re- 
cently burnt  and  blackened,  and  almost  de- 
stroyed by  fire.  The  night  was  calm  and 
tolerably  clear,  with  the  thermometer  at  sun- 
set at  69°.  Our  journey  to-day  was  about 
20  miles. 

October  14. — The  day  was  clear  and  calm, 
with  a  temperature  at  sunrise  of  46°.  After 
travelling  about  three  miles  up  the  valley, 
we  found  the  river  shut  up  by  precipices  in 
a  kind  of  canon,  and  the  road  makes  a  cir- 
cuit over  the  mountains.  In  the  afternoon 
we  reached  the  river  again,  by  another  little 
ravine ;  and,  after  travelling  along  it  for  a 
few  miles,  left  it  enclosed  among  rude  moun- 
tains ;  and,  ascending  a  smaller  branch,  en- 
camped on  it  about  6  o'clock,  very  much 
elevated  above  the  valley.  The  view  was 
everywhere  limited  by  mountains,  on  which 
were  no  longer  seen  the  black  and  barren 
rocks,  but  a  fertile  soil,  with  excellent  grass, 
and  partly  well  covered  with  pine.  I  have 
never  seen  a  wagon  road  equally  bad  in  the 


I 


f 


f     ^*M>- 


104 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[184& 


\.% 


iMune  space,  an  this  of  yesterday  and  to-day. 
I  noticed  where  one  wagon  had  been  over- 
turned twice,  in  a  vory  short  distance ;  and 
it  was  surprising  to  me  that  thozft  wagons 
which  were  in  the  reiir,  and  could  not  have 
had  much  assistance,  i^ot  through  it  all. 
Still,  there  is  no  mud ;  and  the  road  has  one 
advantage,  in  being  perfectly  (irm.  The 
d»y  had  been  v.  rm  and  very  pleasant,  and 
the  night  was  perfectly  clear. 

October  16. — The  thermometer  at  dbylight 
was  42°,  and  at  sunrise  40° ;  clouds,  which 
were  scattered  over  all  the  sky,  disappeared 
with  the  rising  sun.  The  trail  did  not  much 
improve  until  we  had  crossed  the  dividing 
ground  between  the  Brvli  (Burnt)  and  Pew- 
aer  rivers.  The  rock  displayed  on  the  moun- 
tains, as  we  approached  the  summit,  was  a 
compact  trap,  decomposing  on  the  exposed 
surfaces,  anu  apparently  an  altered  argillace- 
ous sandstone,  containing  small  crystalline 
nodules  of  anolcinie,  apparently  filling  cavi- 
ties originally  existing.  From  the  summit 
here,  the  whole  horizon  shows  high  moun- 
tains ;  no  high  plain  or  level  is  to  be  seen ; 
and  on  the  left,  from  south  around  by  the 
west  to  north,  the  mountains  are  black  with 
pines ;  while,  through  the  remaining  space 
to  the  eastward,  they  are  bald  with  the  ex- 
ception of  some  scattered  pines.  You  will 
remark  that  we  are  now  entering  a  region 
where  all  the  elevated  parts  are  covered  with 
dense  and  heavy  forests.  From  the  dividing 
grounds  we  descended  by  a  mountain  road 
to  Powder  river,  on  an  old  bed  of  which  we 
encamped.  Descending  from  the  summit, 
we  enjoye>* :;  picturesque  view  of  high  rocky 
mounta'iis  on  the  right,  illuminatea  by  the 
setting  sun. 

From  the  heights  we  had  looked  in  vain 
for  a  well-known  landmark  i  i  Powder  river, 
which  had  been  described  to  me  by  Mr. 
Payette  as  Varbrt  seul  (the  lone  tree) ;  and, 
on  arriving  at  the  river,  we  found  a  fine  tall 
pine  stretched  on  the  ground,  which  had 
Deefi  felled  by  some  inconsiderate  emigrant 
axe.  It  had  been  a  beacon  on  the  road  for 
many  years  past.  Our  Cayuses  had  become 
impatient  to  reach  their  homes,  and  travelled 
on  ahead  to-day ;  and  this  afternoon  we  were 
visited  by  several  Indians,  who  belonged  to 
the  tribes  on  the  C(.iumbia.  They  were  on 
horseback,  and  were  out  on  a  hunting  ex- 
cursion, but  had  obtained  no  better  game 
than  a  large  grey  hare,  of  which  each  had 
some  six  or  seven  hanging  to  his  saddle. 
We  v/ere  also  visited  by  an  Indian  who  had 
his  lodge  and  family  in  the  mountain  to  the 
left.  He  was  in  waL:;  of  ammunition,  and 
brought  with  him  a  beaver  skin  to  exchange, 
and  which  he  valued  at  six  charges  of  pow- 
der and  ball.  I  learned  from  him  that  there 
are  very  few  of  these  animals  remaining  in 
this  part  of  tlie  country. 


The  temperature  at  sunset  was  fil°,  and 
the  evening  clear.  I  obtained,  with  other 
observations,  an  immersion  and  emersion  ot 
the  third  satellite.    Elevation  3,10U  feet. 

October  16. — For  several  weeks  the 
weather  in  the  daytime  has  been  very  beau- 
tiful, clear,  and  warm ;  but  the  nights,  in 
comparison,  are  very  cold.  During  tiie  night 
there  was  ice  a  quarter  of  an  incn  thick  ia 
the  lodge ;  and  at  daylight  the  thermometer 
was  at  16°,  and  the  same  at  sunrise  ;  the 
weather  being  calm  and  clear.  The  annual 
vegetation  now  is  nearly  gone,  almost  all 
the  plants  being  out  of  bloom. 

Last  nunt  two  of  our  horses  had  run  oil 
agam,  which  delayed  us  until  noon  ;  and  we 
made  to-day  but  a  short  journey  of  1 3  miles 
the  road  being  very  good,  and  encamped  ii 
a  fine  bottom  of  Powder  river. 

The  thermometer  at  sunset  was  at  61°, 
with  an  easterly  wind,  and  partially  clear 
sky ;  and  the  day  has  been  quite  pleasant 
and  warm,  though  more  cloudy  than  yester- 
day ;  and  the  sun  was  frequently  faint,  but 
it  grew  finer  and  clearer  towards  evening. 

October  17. — Thermometer  at  sunrise  96°. 
The  weather  at  daylicht  was  fine,  and  the 
sky  without  a  cloud ;  out  these  came  up,  or 
were  formed  with  the  sun,  and  at  7  were 
thick  over  all  the  sky.  Just  mow,  this  ap- 
pears to  be  the  regular  course — clear  and 
brilliant  during  the  night,  and  cloudy  during 
the  day.  There  is  snow  ycl  visible  in  the 
neighboring  mountains,  which  yesterday  ex- 
tended along  our  route  to  the  left,  in  a  lofty 
and  dark-blue  ranee,  having  much  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  Wind  river  mountains.  It 
IS  probable  that  they  have  received  theit 
name  of  the  Blue  mountains  from  the  dark- 
blue  appearance  given  to  them  by  the  pinea. 
We  travelled  this  morning  across  the  afflu- 
ents to  Powder  river,  the  road  beins  good, 
iitm,  and  level;  and  the  country  became 
constantly  more  pleasant  and  interesting. 
The  soil  appeareu  to  be  very  deep,  and  is 
black  and  extremely  good,  as  well  among 
the  hollows  of  the  hills  on  the  elevated  Uats, 
as  on  the  river  bottoms ;  the  vegetation  being 
such  as  is  usually  found  in  good  ground. 
The  following  analytical  result  shows  the 
precise  qualities  of  this  soil,  and  will  justify 
to  science  the  character  of  fertility  which  the 
eye  attributes  to  ii . 

Analysis  of  Powder  river  soil. 

Silica 73.30 

Alumina 6.36 

Carbonate  of  lime 6.86 

Carbonate  of  magnesia      ....  4.63 

Oxide  of  iron       1.30 

Organic  matter 4*60 

Water  and  lofls 4.37 

100.00 


^tffffrr 


i;i84& 

|c  at  Bimsct  was  01°,  and 
I  obtained,  with  other 
mmersion  and  cmcrBion  ot 
Elevation  3,10U  feet, 
or  Bcvernl  weeks  the 
time  has  been  very  beau- 
ivarm ;  but  the  nights,  in 
ry  cold.  Durine  the  nij^jit 
iiarter  of  an  inch  thick  ia 
daylight  the  thermometer 
the  same  at  sunrise ;  the 
m  and  clear.  The  annual 
8  nearly  gone,  almost  rU 
ut  of  bloom. 

of  our  hoi'ses  had  run  off 
yed  us  until  noon  ;  and  we 
1  short  journey  of  13  miles 
ry  good,  and  encamped  ii. 
'owder  river. 

iter  at  sunset  was  at  61°, 
wind,  and  partially  clear 
ly  has  been  quite  pleasant 
;h  more  cloudy  than  yester- 
n  was  frequently  faint,  but 
clearer  towanJs  evening, 
hermometer  at  sunrise  36°. 
daylight  was  fine,  and  the 
lud ;  i)ut  these  came  up,  or 
th  the  sun,  and  at  7  were 
B  sky.    Just  mow,  this  ap> 
regular  course — clear  and 
he  night,  and  cloudy  during 
is  snow  yet  visible  in  the 
mtains,  wbiuh  yesterday  ex* 
r  route  to  the  left,  in  a  lofly 
mce,  having  much  the  a» 
Wind  river  mountains.    Il 
t  they  have  received  their 
le  mountains  from  the  dark- 
given  to  them  by  the  pinea. 
s  morning  across  the  i^u- 
river,  the  road  being  good, 
;   and  the  country  became 
pleasant  and  interesting, 
eu  to  be  very  deep,  and  u 
nely  good,  as  well  among 
e  hills  on  the  elevated  blats, 
ttoms ;  the  vegetation  being 
lly  found  in  good  ground, 
nalytical  result  shows  the 
of  this  soil,  and  will  justify 
aracter  of  fertility  which  the 


/  Powder  river  toil. 

73.30 

6.36 

3 6.86 

ernesia      ....  4.63 

1.30 

4-60 

4.37 

100.00 


1841. 


CAPT.  PRE.MOMTS  MAIlll ATIVE. 


Prom  the  waters  of  this  stream,  the  road 
ascended  by  a  (rood  and  moderate  accent  to 
a  dividing  ridge,  but  immediately  entered 
upon  ground  covered  with  fragments  of  an 
Rltered  siliceous  sliito,  whicli  uio  in  many 
places  large,  and  roiidcr  the  road  racking  to 
a  carriage.  In  this  ruck  the  plano!>  r '  'epo- 
gition  arc  distinctly  |)rcservcd,  aiidt^.^-  iiicta- 
morphii*m  in  evidently  due  to  the  |)ro.\iniity 
of  volcanic  rockH.  (Jn  either  side,  the  moun- 
tains hero  arc  densely  covered  with  tall  and 
handsonio  trees  *,  and,  mingled  with  the 
green  of  a  variety  of  pines,  is  the  yellow  of 
the  European  larch  (pinus  lariv),  which 
loses  its  leaves  in  the  fall.  From  iu  present 
color,  wo  were  enabled  to  see  that  it  forms  a 
large  proportion  of  the  forests  on  the  moun- 
tains, and  is  here  a  magnificent  tree,  attain- 
ing sometimes  the  huight  of  200  feet,  which 
I  believe  is  elsewhere  unknown.  About  two 
in  the  afternoon  we  reached  a  high  point  of 
the  dividing  ridge,  from  which  we  obtained 
a  good  view  of  the  Grand  Rond — a  beauti- 
ful level  basin,  or  mountain  valley,  covered 
with  good  grass,  on  a  rich  soil,  abundantly 
watered,  and  surrounded  by  high  and  well- 
timbered  mountains  ;  and  its  name  descri])- 
tive  of  its  form — the  great  circle.  It  is  a 
place— one  of  the  few  we  have  seen  in  our 
journey  so  far — where  a  faimer  would  de- 
light to  establish  himself,  if  he  were  content 
to  live  in  the  seclusion  which  it  imposes.  It 
is  about  20  miles  in  diameter ;  and  may,  in 
time,  form  a  superb  county.  Probably  with 
the  view  ot  avoiding  a  circuit,  tlie  wagons 
had  directly  descended  into  the  Rond  by  the 
(ace  of  a  hill  so  very  rocky  and  continuously 
steep  as  to  be  apparently  impracticable; 
and,  following  down  on  their  trail,  we  en- 
camped on  one  of  the  branches  of  the  Grand 
Rond  river,  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill.  I  had  remarked,  in  descending,  some 
very  white  spots  glistening  on  the  plain,  and, 
going  out  in  that  direction  after  wo  hold  en- 
camped, I  found  them  to  be  the  bed  of  a  dry 
salt  lake,  or  marsh,  very  firm  and  bare, 
which  was  covered  thickly  with  a  6ne  white 
powder,  containing  a  large  quantity  of  car- 
bonate of  soda  (thirty-three  in  one  hundred 
parts). 

The  old  grass  had  been  lately  burnt  oft' 
from  the  surrounding  hills,  and,  wherever  the 
tire  had  passed,  there  was  a  recent  growth 
of  strong,  green,  and  vigorous  grass;  and 
the  soil  of  the  level  prairie,  which  sweeps 
directly  up  to  the  foot  of  the  surrounding 
mountains,  appears  to  be  very  rich,  produc- 
ing flax  spontaneously  and  luxuriantly  in 
various  places. 


Analysis  of  the  Qrand  Rond  toU, 


Silica 
Alumina 


70.81 
10.97 


Lime  and  magnesia     . 
Oxide  of  iron       .... 
Vegetable  matter,  partly  decomposed 
Water  and  loss    .... 
Phosphate  of  liino 


lOS 

181 
3.21 
8.1(1 
6.46 
1.01 


100.00 


The  elevation  of  this  encampment  if 
3,910  feet  above  the  sea. 

October  18. — It  began  to  rain  an  hour  bo- 
fore  sunrise,  and  continued  until  10  o'clock' 
the  sky  entirely  overcast,  and  the  tempera 
ture  at  sunrise  48°. 

Wo  resumed  our  journey  somewhat  later 
than  usual,  travelling  in  a  nearly  north  di- 
rection across  this  beautiful  valley;  and 
about  noon  reached  a  place  on  one  of  the 
principal  streams,  where  I  had  determined  tc 
leave  the  emigrant  trail,  in  the  e.vpectation 
of  finding  a  more  direct  and  tetter  road 
across  the  Blue  mountains.  At  this  place 
the  emigrants  appeared  to  have  held  some 
concultation  as  to  their  further  route,  and 
finally  turned  directly  off  to  the  left ;  reach- 
ing the  foot  of  the  mountain  in  about  three 
miles,  which  they  ascended  by  a  hill  as  steep 
and  difficult  as  that  by  which  we  had  yester- 
day descended  to  the  Kond.  Quitting,  there- 
fore, this  road,  which,  after  a  very  rough 
crossing,  issues  from  the  mountains  by  the 
heads  of  the  Umalilah  river,  we  continued 
our  northern  course  across  the  valley,  fol- 
lowing an  Indian  trail  which  had  been  indi- 
cated to  me  by  Mr.  Payette,  and  encamped 
at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  Grand  Rond, 
on  a  slough-like  stream  of  very  deep  water, 
without  any  apparent  current.  There  are 
some  pines  here  on  the  low  hills  at  the  creek ; 
and  in  the  nortliwest  corner  of  the  Rond  is  a 
very  heavy  body  of  timber,  which  descends 
into  the  plain.  The  clouds,  which  had  rested 
very  low  along  the  mountain  sides  during 
the  day,  rose  gradually  up  in  the  afternoon ; 
and  in  tlie  evening  the  sky  was  almost  en- 
tirely clear,  with  a  temperature  at  sunset  of 
47".  Some  indifferent  observations  placed 
the  camp  in  longitude  117°  28'  36",  latitude 
46"'  36'  47" ;  and  the  elevation  was  2,600 
feet  above  the  sea. 

October  19. — ^This  morning  the  mountains 
were  hidden  by  fog ;  there  was  a  heavy  dew 
during  the  night,  m  which  the  exposed  ther- 
mometer at  daylight  stood  at  33°,  and  at  sun- 
rise the  temperature  was  36°. 

We  passed  out  of  the  Grand  Rond  by  a 
fine  rood  along  the  creek,  which,  for  a  iinort 
distance,  runs  in  a  kind  of  rocky  chksm. 
Crossing  a  low  point,  which  was  a  li*.tle 
rocky,  the  trail  conducted  into  the  open  val- 
ley of  the  stream — a  handsome  place  for 
farms  ;  the  soil,  even  of  the  hills,  boing  rich 
and  black.      Passing  through  a   Doint  (M 


I 


.i^M* 


f  - 


I) 


CAl'T.  FUKMONT'H  NAIUIATIVE. 


♦    **«,• 


[1843. 


pinRi,  wliich  hnrc  evidences  of  bcinff  much 
froqiiLMiti'il  by  tlin  Iiidiaii.i,  and  in  which  the 
trcpN  wt'ru  KOMictiinoH  auparently  300  feet 
hif^h  iiiiil  3  to  7  fi't't  in  iliiimoier,  we  halted 
fur  a  Irw  iiiiniitcii  in  tho  afternoon  at  the  fixit 
of  tii«i  Dine  mountains,  on  a  branch  of  the 
f  iraiid  Uond  river,  at  an  elevation  of  2,700 
feel.  RoHiiming  our  journey,  wo  commenced 
the  aftcent  of  tho  mountain  throu|{h  an  open 
pine  foroKt  of  iariro  and  Btatoly  trees,  amon^; 
whicii  tho  halaain  pine  made  ita  appearance ; 
the  road  bcinj;  po«d,  with  the  exception  of 
one  atcop  ascent,  with  a  corresponuing  do- 
■cent,  which  miglit  both  have  been  easily 
avoided  by  opening  a  way  fur  a  short  dis- 
tanco  throu((li  tho  timber.  It  would  have 
been  well  had  wo  encampod  on  the  Ktream 
where  wc  had  halted  below,  osi  tho  night 
overtook  ua  on  tho  mountain,  and  we  were 
obliged  to  encamp  without  water,  and  tie  up 
tho  animals  to  tho  trees  for  the  night.  We 
had  halted  on  a  smooth  open  place  of  a  nar- 
row ridge,  which  doHcendcd  very  rapidly  to 
a  ravino  or  piney  hollow,  at  a  considerable 
distaiico  below;  and  it  was  quite  a  pretty 
spot,  had  there  been  water  near.  But  the 
tires  at  night  look  very  cheerless  after  a  day's 
march,  when  there  is  no  preparation  for  sup- 
per going  on ;  and,  after  sitting  some  time 
around  the  blazing  log»,  Mr.  Preuss  and 
Carson,  with  several  others,  volunteered  to 
take  the  India  rubber  buckets  and  go  down 
into  the  ravine  in  search  of  water.  It  was 
a  very  diflicult  way  in  the  darkness  down  the 
slippery  sido  of  the  steep  mountain,  and 
harder  still  to  clhnb  about  half  a  mile  'ip 
again ;  but  they  found  the  water,  and  the  cup 
ot  cofieo  (which  it  enabled  us  to  make)  and 
bread  were  only  enjoyed  with  greater  pleas- 
ure. 

At  sunset  the  temperature  was  46° ;  the 
evening  remarkably  clear ;  and  I  obtained  an 
emersion  of  the  first  satellite,  which  does  not 
give  a  good  result,  althoush  the  observation 
was  a  very  good  one.  The  chronometric 
longitude  was  lir*  28'  34'',  latitude  45"  38' 
07",  and  we  had  ascended  to  an  elevation  of 
3,830  feet.  It  appeared  to  have  snowed  yes- 
terday on  the  mountains,  their  summits 
showing  very  white  to-day. 

October  20. — There  was  a  heavy  white 
frost  during  the  n^ht,  and  at  sunrise  the 
temperature  was  37^. 

The  animals  had  eaten  nothing  during  the 
night ;  and  we  made  an  early  start,  continu- 
ing our  route  among  the  pines,  which  were 
more  dense  than  ycsterdav,  and  still  retained 
their  magnificent  size.  The  larches  cluster 
together  in  masses  on  the  sides  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  their  yellow  foliage  contrasts  hand- 
somely with  the  green  of  the  balsam  and 
other  pines.  After  a  few  miles  we  ceased 
to  see  any  pines,  and  the  timber  consisted  cf 
wveral  varieties  of  spruce,  larch,  and  balsam 


pine,  which  have  a  regularly  conical  figure. 
ThoKO  trees  appeared  from  *)0  to  nearly  300 
f^et  in  height ;  the  usual  circumference  be- 
ing 10  tu  12  feet,  and  in  the  pines  sometimes 
31  feet.  In  open  places  near  the  summit, 
these  trees  became  less  high  and  mure 
branchinir,  the  conical  form  having  a  greater 
base.  iTie  instrument  carriage  occasioned 
much  delay,  it  Iwing  frequently  necessary  to 
fell  treea  and  remove  the  fallen  timlwr.  The 
trail  we  wer<.'  following  led  up  a  long  spur, 
with  a  very  gradual  and  gentle  rise. 

At  the  eniTof  three  miles,  wc  halted  at  an 
open  place  near  the  summit,  from  which  we 
enjoyed  a  fine  view  over  tho  mountainous 
country  where  we  had  lately  travelled,  to 
take  a  barometrical  observation  at  the  height 
of  4,460  feet. 

After  travolli  j  occasio.ially  through  open 
places  in  the  forest,  we  were  obliged  to  cut 
a  wav  through  a  dense  body  of  timber,  from 
which  we  emerged  on  an  open  mountain 
side,  where  we  found  a  number  of  small 
springs,  and  encamped  after  a  day's  jouniey 
ot  10  miles.  Our  elevation  here  was  fi,000 
feet. 

October  21. — There  was  a  very  heavy 
white  frost  during  the  night,  and  the  tlier- 
mometer  at  sunrise  was  30". 

We  continued  to  travel  through  the  forest, 
in  which  the  road  was  rendered  difficult  by 
fallen  trunks,  and  obstructed  by  many  small 
trees,  which  it  was  necessary  to  cut  down. 
But  these  are  only  accidental  difficulties, 
which  could  easily  be  removed,  and  a  very 
excellent  road  may  be  had  through  this  pass, 
with  no  other  than  very  moderate  ascents  or 
declivities.  A  laborious  day,  which  had  ad- 
vanced us  only  six  miles  on  our  road,  brought 
us  in  the  afternoon  to  an  opening  in  the 
forest,  in  which  there  was  a  tine  mountain 
meadow,  with  good  grass,  and  a  large  clear- 
water  stream— one  of  the  head  branches  of 
the  Vmatilak  river.  During  this  day's  jour- 
ney, the  barometer  was  broken ;  and  the  ele- 
vations abovo  the  sea,  hereafter  given,  depend 
upon  tlie  temperature  of  boiling  water.  Some 
of  the  white  spruces  which  I  measured  to- 
day were  twelve  feet  in  circumference,  and 
one  of  the  larches  ten ;  but  eight  fe  Jt  was  the 
average  circumference  of  Qiosii  measured 
along  the  rond.  I  held  in  my  hand  a  tape 
line  as  I  w  J  along,  in  order  to  form  some 
correct  idea  cf  the  size  of  the  timber.  Their 
height  appeared  to  be  from  100  to  180,  and 
perhaps  200  feet,  and  tlie  trunks  of  the 
larches  were  sometimes  100  feet  without  a 
limb;  but  the  white  spruces  were  generally 
covered  with  branches  nearly  to  the  root. 
All  these  trees  have  their  branches,  particu- 
larly the  lower  ones,  declining. 

October  22. — Tho  white  frost  this  morning 
was  like  snow  on  the  ground ;  the  ice  was  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick  on  the  creek,  and  the 


k  «*«fc 


[1843. 

rpjjiilarly  conical  figure, 
[od  from  (io  to  nearly  aoo 
k  imual  circumference  bc- 
|nd  in  the  pine*  aotnctimei 
pluce«  near  the  •ummit, 
no  IcM  hijth  and  more 
leal  form  Imvinjr  a  ^renter 
ment  carriage  occasioned 
pg  frequently  necesHary  to 
Ifo  the  fallen  tirnlwr.  The 
[wing  led  up  a  long  ipur, 
kl  and  gentle  riHo. 
ree  miles,  we  halted  at  an 
|ie  summit,  from  which  we 
3W  over  the  mounlainoua 
(  had  lately  travelled,  to 
I  observation  at  the  height 

occasioiially  through  open 
t,  we  were  obliged  to  cut 
ense  body  of  timber,  from 
d  on  an  open  mountain 
lund  a  numl)cr  of  small 
iped  afler  a  day's  journey 
elevation  here  was  5,000 

here   was  a  very  heavy 
tiie  night,  and  the  ther- 
e  was  30'. 

)  travel  through  the  forest, 
was  rendered  ditiicult  by 
obstructed  by  many  small 
18  necessary  to  cut  down, 
nly  accidental  difficulties, 
f  be  removed,  and  a  very 
y  be  had  through  this  pass, 
1  very  moderate  ascents  or 
oriouB  day,  which  had  ad- 
miles  on  our  road,  brought 
on  to  an  opening  in  the 
here  was  a  fine  mountain 
d  grass,  and  a  large  clear- 
i  of  the  head  branches  of 
.    During  this  day's  jour- 
'  was  broken ;  and  the  ele- 
ea,  hereafter  given,  depend 
ire  of  boiling  water.  Sonw 
:e8  which  I  measured  to- 
jet  in  circumference,  and 
en ;  but  eight  feat  was  the 
'ence  of  Uioso  measured 
held  in  my  hand  a  tape 
ong,  in  order  to  form  some 
size  of  the  timber.   Their 
be  from  100  to  180,  and 
and  tlie  trunks  of  the 
times  100  feet  without  a 
3  spruces  were  gcnerallj 
ches  nearly  to  the  root, 
e  their  branches,  particu- 
B,  declining. 

}  white  frost  this  nioming 
ie  ground ;  the  ice  was  t 
hick  on  the  creek,  uid  the 


IM3.1 


CAPT.  FRr..MONT'8  NARRATIVF. 


m 


ilicrmotrK'!  I-  at  siinriHO  wnn  at  '20'.  But,  in 
a  ft>w  hoiir.'',  the  day  became  warm  and  plra- 
fRnt,  niid  our  road  over  the  mountains  was 
ileliu'litlul  i>nd  full  of  enjoyment. 

'i'liL'  tmil  passed  scmietimoH  through  very 
thick  young  timber  in  which  tlierc  waH  much 
riitiiiii;  to  1)0  done  ;  but,  aftor  travelling  a 
lew  iniU'w,  the  mountains  l)ocamo  mure  bald, 
and  we  reached  a  point  from  which  there  was 
a  very  extensive  view  in  the  northwest.  We 
were  here  on  the  weMtcrn  verge  of  the  Blue 
mountiiins,  long  spurH  of  which,  very  pre- 
cipitous on  either  side,  extended  down  into 
tliL'  valley,  the  waters  of  the  mountain  roar- 
ing Ix'tween  them.  On  our  right  was  a 
niountiiiii  plateau,  covered  with  a  dense  for- 
est; ami  to  the  westward,  immediately  below 
lis,  wos  the  great  Net  Perci  (pierced  nose) 
prairie,  in  wliich  dark  lines  ol  timber  indi- 
cated the  course  of  many  atHuents  to  a  con- 
sidcrablo  stream  that  was  seen  purnuing  its 
way  acroKK  the  plain  towards  what  appeared 
to  he  the  Columbia  river.  This  I  knew  to  be 
tiic  WiUahwalah  river,  and  occasional  spots 
ulung  its  banks,  which  rei<embled  clearings, 
were  supposed  to  be  the  mission  or  Indian 
settlements ;  but  the  weather  was  smoky  and 
unfavorable  to  far  views  with  the  glass.  The 
rock  displayed  hero  in  the  escarpments  is  a 
compact  amorphous  trap,  which  appears  to 
conHtitute  the  mass  of  the  Blue  mountains  in 
this  latitude  ;  and  all  the  region  of  country 
through  vhich  we  have  travelled  since  leav- 
ing the  bnake  river  has  been  the  seat  of 
violent  and  extensive  igneous  action.  Along 
the  Burnt  river  valley,  the  strata  are  evident- 
ly sedimentary  rocks,  altered  by  the  intrusion 
of  volcanic  products,  which  in  some  instances 
have  penetrated  and  essentially  changed  their 
original  condition.  Along  our  line  of  route 
from  this  point  to  the  California  mountains, 
there  seems  but  little  essential  change.  All 
our  specimens  of  sedimentary  rocks  show 
them  to  be  much  altered,  and  volcanic  pro- 
ductions appear  to  prevail  throughout  the 
whole  intervening  distance. 

The  road  now  led  along  the  mountain  side, 
around  heads  of  the  precipitous  ravines ;  and, 
keeping  men  ahead  to  clear  a  road,  we  passed 
alternately  through  bodies  of  timber  ana  small 
open  prairies,  and  encamped  in  a  large 
meadow,  in  view  of  the  great  prairie  below. 

At  sunset  tho  thermometer  was  at  40",  and 
the  night  was  very  clear  and  bright.  Water 
was  only  to  be  had  here  by  descending  a  bad 
ravine,  into  which  we  drove  our  animals,  and 
had  much  trouble  with  them,  in  a  very  close 
growth  of  small  pines.  Mr.  Preuss  had  walk- 
ed ahead,  and  did  not  get  into  the  camp  this 
evening.  The  trees  here  maintained  their 
size,  and  one  of  the  black  spruces  measured 
16  feet  in  circumference.  In  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  camp,  pines  have  reappearra  here 
among  the  timber. 


Oclnhrr  '23. — The  morniiiff  was  very  clear ; 
there  lind  been  a  heavy  white  front  during 
tho  iilKlit,  and  at  sunrise  the  thermometer 
was  at  3 1*. 

Alter  cutting  through  two  thirk  b  vlies  of 
timU^r,  ill  which  I  noticed  Home  Kninll  trees 
of  hrm'irli  spruce  (i/frioi.'r),  the  forest  he* 
came  more  open,  ami  wo  had  no  longer  any 
trouble  to  clear  a  way.  The  pinei*  here  were 
1 1  or  \'2  feet  in  circumference,  and  iilMiiit  1 10 
feet  high,  and  appeared  to  love  the  open 
grounds.  Tho  trail  now  led  along  one  ol  the 
long  spurs  of  the  mountain,  desceiidiiig  grad- 
ually towards  the  plain ;  and  afler  a  few  miles 
travelling,  wo  emerged  finally  from  the  for- 
est, in  full  view  of  the  plain  below,  and  saw 
the  snowy  mass  of  Mount  llood,  standing 
high  out  above  the  surrounding  country,  at 
the  distance  of  180  miles.  The  road  along 
the  ridge  was  e.xcellent,  and  the  grass  very 
green  and  good  ;  the  old  grass  having  been 
burnt  oti'  early  in  the  autumn.  About  4  o'- 
clock in  the  afternoon  we  reached  a  little 
bottom  on  the  Walaliwalah  river,  where  we 
found  Mr.  I'reuss,  who  yesterday  had  reach- 
ed this  place,  and  found  himself  too  far  in 
advance  of  the  camp  to  return.  The  stream 
hero  has  just  issued  from  the  narrow  ravines, 
which  arc  walled  with  precipices,  in  which 
tho  rock  has  a  brown  and  more  burnt  ap- 
pearance than  above. 

At  s'inset  the  thermometer  was  at  48°  ; 
and  our  position  was  in  longitude  118"  00' 
39",  and  in  latitude  46"  63'  36". 

The  morning  was  clear,  with  a  tempera- 
ture at  sunrise  of  24".  Crossing  the  river, 
we  travelled  over  a  hilly  country  with  good 
bunch  grass  ;  the  river  bottom,  which  gen- 
erally contains  tho  best  soil  in  othor  coun- 
tries, being  here  a  sterile  level  of  rocks  and 
pebbles.  We  had  found  the  soil  in  the  Blue 
mountains  to  be  of  excellent  quality,  and  it 
appeared  also  to  be  good  here  among  the 
lower  hills.  Reaching  a  little  eminence, 
over  which  the  trail  passed,  wo  had  an  ex- 
tensive view  along  the  course  of  the  river, 
which  was  divided  and  spread  over  its  bot- 
tom in  a  net-work  of  water,  receiving  several 
other  tributaries  from  the  mountains.  There 
was  a  band  of  several  hundred  horses  grazing 
on  the  hills  about  two  miles  ahead  ;  and  aa 
we  advanced  on  the  road  we  met  other  bands, 
which  Indians  were  driving  out  to  pasture 
also  on  the  hills.  True  to  its  general  cha- 
racter, the  reverse  of  other  countries,  the 
hills  and  mountains  here  were  rich  in  grass, 
the  bottoms  barren  and  sterile. 

In  six  miles  we  crossed  a  principal  fork, 
below  which  the  scattered  water  of  the  river 
was  gathered  into  one  channel ;  and,  passing 
on  tho  way  several  unfinished  houses,  ana 
same  cleared  patches,  where  corn  and  pota- 
toes were  cultivated,  we  reached,  in  about 
eight  miles  farther,  the  missionary  vstabliib* 


1 


I    w 


I 


m 


•.*»fj^m' 


4   ^»»- 


IM 


CAPT.  FRF.MONT'a  NARRATIVK, 


[I  Ml. 


munt  of  Dr.  Wliitmnn,  wliidi  rnmtintcil,  at 
tliU  liini'.  "I  "lit*  iiil'ihf  lioimn — i.e.,  built  of 
unhiiriit  l)ricl<H,  n>i  in  .Moxiro. 

I  li)iiii<l  Dr.  WliliiMiiii  iitHcnt  on  n  vixit  to 
thi>  Dfill'f  of  tlio  ('iiiiiinbia  ;  l>iit  Imd  tlin 
ploaiiirn  to  m>o  a  liiic-lo<)l<in({  Inr^rn  I'lirnily  iil' 
nmigmntn,  men,  women  mid  cliildron,  in  ro- 
bunt  hcailb,  hII  indemnifying  tlieniHidvcN  for 
prnviuiir*  Mcaiity  furo,  in  u  nearly  conmimp- 
tion  of  potiitoeo,  which  are  pnNliiccd  here  of 
a  remarkably  |;rod  quality.  Wo  were  dis- 
appointed in  our  expectation  of  obtaininir 
corn  meal  or  Hour  at  thia  Ntation,  the  mill 
bolon;iinf;  to  the  miniion  havin)(  been  lately 
burnt  down  ;  but  an  abundant  supply  of  ex- 
cellent potatoeR  baniHiied  re^rotH,  iind  fur- 
nished a  irratefiilxubfititute  for  bread.  A  small 
town  of  Noz  IVrci  Indians  gave  an  inhabited 
and  even  a  |iopulous  appearance  totho  station; 
and,  after  remaining  about  an  hour,  we  con- 
tinued our  route,  and  encamped  on  the  river 
about  four  miles  below,  passing  on  the  way 
an  emif^rant  encampment. 

Temperalure  at  sunset,  49*. 

Octooer  !iA. — The  weather  wa:i  pleasant, 
with  a  sunritte  temperature  of  36".  Our 
road  t<>day  had  in  it  nothing  of  interest; 
and  the  country  oiTored  to  the  eye  only  a 
tandy,  undulatiuf;  plain,  through  which  a 
scantily  timbered  river  takes  it-<  course. 
We  halted  aliout  three  miles  above  the 
mouth,  on  account  of  gra^s ;  and  the  next 
morning  arrived  at  the  Ncz  Perc^  fort,  one 
of  the  trading  extablishmonta  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company,  a  few  hundred  yards  above 
the  junction  of  the  Walahwalah  witli  the 
Columbia  river.  Hero  we  had  the  first 
view  of  this  river,  and  found  it  about  1 ,200 
yards  wide,  and  presenting  the  appearance 
of  a  fine  navigable  stream.  Wo  made  our 
camp  in  a  little  grove  of  willows  on  the 
Walahwalah,  whicn  are  the  only  trees  to  \te 
seen  in  the  neighborhood ;  but  were  obliged 
to  send  the  animals  back  to  the  encampment 
we  had  left,  as  there  was  scarcely  a  blade 
of  grass  to  be  found.  The  post  is  on  the 
bank  of  the  Columbia,  on  a  plain  of  bare 
sands,  from  which  the  air  was  literally  filled 
with  clouds  of  dust  and  sand,  during  one  of 
the  few  days  we  remained  hero ;  this  place 
being  one  of  the  severiil  points  on  the  river 
whi^  are  distinguished  for  prevailing  high 
winds,  which  come  from  the  sea.  The  ap- 
pearance of  the  post  and  country  was  with- 
out interest,  except  that  we  here  saw,  for 
the  first  time,  the  great  river  on  which  the 
course  of  events  for  the  last  half  century 
has  been  directing  attention  and  conferring 
historical  fame.  The  river  is,  indeed,  a 
noble  object,  and  has  here  attained  its  full 
magnitiule.  About  nine  miles  above,  s.nd  in 
•igiit  from  the  heights  about  th"  post,  ia  die 
junction  of  the  two  great  forks  which  con- 
ititute  tlie  main  stroam — that  on  which  we 


had  been  travelling  from  Fort  Hull,  nnd 
known  by  the  naiiio*  of  LrvviH'H  tork,  Klio. 
slionee,  and  Snaki'  river  ;  ami  tlu>  North  fork. 
which  liaK  retained  the  name  of  Columl)ia 
ax  being  the  main  stream. 

We  did  not  go  up  to  the  junct'nn,  lN>ini; 
proitxed  to.'  timo  ;  but  the  union  of  two  luriri- 
Hireains,  coming  one  from  the  southciiNt,  iirul 
the  other  from  the  nurtheant,  and  nioftiii!,'  in 
what  may  lie  treated  as  the  geogriiphicnl 
centre  of  the  Oregon  valley,  thence  doiililinir 
the  volume  of  water  to  the  ocean,  wliiln 
opening  two  great  lines  of  commnnirntiim 
with  the  interior  continent,  constitiitcH  n 
feature  in  the  map  of  the  country  wliicli 
cannot  be  overlooked ;  and  it  was  prolmMy 
in  reference  to  this  junction  of  watorx,  u\u] 
these  linf*!<  of  communication,  that  thJH  jxi-t 
was  eHtablislicd.  They  are  important  lines, 
and,  from  the  structure  of  the  country,  miiKt 
for  ever  remain  so — one  of  them  leading'  to 
the  Houth  Pass,  and  to  the  valley  ol  tliii 
MissiMsipi ;  the  other  to  the  pass  at  the  head 
of  the  Athabasca  river,  and  to  the  count rioH 
drained  bv  the  waters  of  the  Hudf*on  Iky, 
The  Uritish  fur  companies  now  uho  Im)I|i 
lines  i  the  Americans,  in  their  emigration  to 
Oregon,  have  begun  to  follow  the  one  which 
leads  towards  the  United  States.  Datea'.m 
from  tide  water  ascend  to  the  junction,  and 
thence  high  up  the  North  fork,  or  Columbia. 
Ijand  conveyance  only  is  used  upon  the  line 
of  Lewis's  fork.  To  the  emigrants  to  Ore- 
gon, the  Ncz  I'erci  is  a  point  of  intcrcHi,  m 
being,  to  those  who  chooxo  it,  the  termiiiatinn 
of  their  overland  journey.  The  broad  ex- 
panse of  the  river  hero  invites  them  to  em- 
bark on  its  bosom ;  and  the  lofty  trees  of  the 
forest  furnish  the  means  of  doing  so. 

From  the  South  Pass  to  this  place  is  about 
1,000  miles;  and  aa  it  is  about  the  same 
distance  irom  that  pass  to  the  Missouri  river 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas,  it  may  be  as- 
sumed that  2,000  miles  is  the  necessary  land 
travel  in  crouning  from  the  United  States  to 
the  Pacific  ocean  on  this  line.  From  the 
mouth  of  the  Great  Platte  it  would  be  about 
100  miles  less. 

Mr.  McKinley,  the  commander  of  the  post, 
received  us  with  great  civility ;  and  both  to 
myself,  and  the  heads  of  the  emigrants  who 
were  there  at  the  lime,  extended  tho  rights 
of  hospitality  in  a  comfortable  dinner  to 
which  h<3  invited  us. 

By  a  meridional  altitude  of  the  sun,  the 
only  obijervation  that  the  weather  permitted 
us  to  obtain,  the  mouth  of  the  Walahwalah 
river  in  in  latitude  46"  03'  46'' ;  and,  by  the 
road  we  had  travelled,  612  miles  from  Fort 
Hall.  At  the  time  of  our  arrival,  a  con- 
siderable body  of  the  emigrants  under  the 
direction  of  Mr.  Applegate,  a  man  of  con- 
siderable resolution  and  energy,  had  nearly 
completed    the    building    of   a  number  ol 


Mi 


tUf^'    Ik 


i  ^tm- 


*F.. 


[IMI. 


^llinjf  from  Fnrt  Idill,  nnrf 
laiiip*  of  [rfnvis'g  lork,  KIk* 
l(i»rivor  ;  imd  the  North  fork. 
|ted  tlio  iiaino  (if  Coliunhia 
in  Rtroiiin, 

|o  U|i  to  tho  juiicl't)n,  lu'inp 
I  but  tho  union  ot  two  hirjri' 
ono  from  tho  noiithciiHt.iiriil 
ho  tiorthottnl,  and  meeting'  in 
|ro«t««d  M  the  (fPoi^rHphTcni 
P|fon  valley,  thcnco  doiihlini. 
I  water  to  tho  oconn,  whiln 
'cat  line*  of  commiinirntinn 
|or  continent,  conntitulcH   n 
map  of  tho  country  which 
looked  ;  and  it  wan  prohiiMy 
this  juncthm  of  waters,  unil 
immunicatiun,  that  thin  |«i.t 
They  aro  important  lines, 
riicturoof  tho  country,  nin.st 
Bo — ono  of  them  lendinjr  to 
I,  and  to  the  valley  ol  tlm 
other  to  the  pass  at  tho  hoiid 
;a  rivor.  and  to  tho  counfrieH 
waters  of  tho  Iludoon  Uiiy. 
r  companies  now  uho  In)I|) 
ncann,  in  their  emijfration  to 
)gun  to  follow  tho  one  wliich 
10  United  States.      Bateiiiis 
r  ascend  to  the  junction,  and 
tho  North  fork,  or  Columbia. 
20  only  is  used  upon  the  line 
To  tho  omigmntH  to  Ore- 
ore*  is  a  point  of  interest,  bs 
vho  choose  it,  tho  termination 
id  journey.     Tho  broud  ex. 
'er  hero  invites  them  to  em- 
im ;  and  the  lofty  trees  of  the 
le  means  of  doing  so. 
ith  I'ass  to  this  place  is  about 
lid  as  it  is  about  tho  same 
lat  pass  to  the  Missouri  river 
■  the  Kansas,  it  may  be  as- 

0  miles  is  the  necesmry  land 
18  from  the  United  States  to 
in  on  this  line.  From  the 
real  Platte  it  would  be  about 

r,  the  commander  of  the  post, 
li  great  civility ;  and  both  to 
heads  of  the  emigrants  who 
e  time,  extended  tho  rights 
n  a  comfortable  dinnor  to 

1  us. 

lal  altitude  of  the  sun,  the 
that  the  weather  permitted 
mouth  of  the  Walahwalab 
le  46"  03'  46'' ;  and,  by  the 
yelled,  612  miles  from  Fort 
ime  of  our  arrival,  a  con- 
)f  the  emigrants  under  the 
Applemte,  a  man  of  con- 
Jon  and  energy,  had  nearly 
building   of  a  number  ot 


|I4» 


CAIT.  FIllvMoNT'S  NAUU.\T1VK. 


IM 


.Nfickinaw  boats,  In  which  tliry  pri>p<>Mc<l  to 
fDiiliiiUf  their  fiirtl.Vr  voynijc  down  the 
fiiltiiiiliia.  I  lind  »('vn,  in  tlencciiding  the 
W.iliihwalah  river,  n  (ino  drove  of  reveral 
liiiiidred  cuttle,  which  they  had  exchnnved 
liir  (,'aliforniaii  tattle,  to  be  receiveil  at  Vaii- 
riniver,  and  which  are  considi^red  a  very 
iiifi'rior  breed.  The  other  portion  of  tho 
'migration  had  preferred  to  coninleto  their 
jMiiriuy  hy  lanu  along  the  buiiKs  of  tho 
Ciiliiinbiii,  taking  their  stock  and  wagons 
with  them. 

llavin;^  reinforced  our  animalM  with  eight 
froHh  horses,  hired  from  tho  post,  and  m- 
creaned  our  stock  uf  provisions  with  drieu 
salmon,  potatoes,  and  a  little  beef,  wo  re- 
iiiined  our  journey  down  tho  left  bank  of  tho 
Columbia,  l)eing  guided  on  our  road  by  an 
intelligent  Indian  boy,  whom  I  had  engaged 
U)  acrompany  us  as  far  as  tho  Dalles. 

From  an  elevated  point  «)vcr  which  tho 
rnad  led,  wo  obtained  another  far  view  of 
Mount  Hood,  IfiO  miles  distant,  We  ob- 
Uiinod  on  the  river  bank  an  observation  of 
the  Hiiii  at  noon,  which  gave  for  tho  latitude 
46"  68'  08".  The  country  to-day  was  very 
iiiiprcpossesiing,  and  our  road  bad  ;  and  as 
we  toiled  slowly  along  through  deep  loose 
landrt,  and  over  fragments  of  black  volcanic 
rock,  our  laborious  travelling  was  strongly 
coiitrastod  with  tho  rapid  progress  of  Mr. 
ApplegRte's  fleet  of  boats,  which  suddenly 
caino  gliding  swiftly  down  the  broad  river, 
which  here  chanced  to  be  tranquil  and 
»iniK)th.  At  evening  we  encamped  on  the 
river  bank,  where  there  was  very  little  grass, 
ami  less  timber.  We  frequently  mot  Indians 
on  tho  road,  and  they  were  collected  at  every 
favorable  spot  along  the  river. 

October  29. —The  road  continued  along 
the  river,  and  in  iui  course  of  the  day  Mount 
ijt.  Helens,  another  t'nowy  peak  of  the  Cas- 
cade range,  was  visib!?.  \Vo  crossed  tho 
(.'nis.tilah  river  at  a  fall  near  its  mouth. 
TluM  stream  is  of  tho  same  class  as  the 
Wiilahwalah  river,  with  a  bed  of  volcanic 
rocK,  in  places  split  Into  fissures.  Our  en- 
cuvnpment  was  similar  to  that  of  yesterday : 
th\>re  was  very  little  grass,  and  no  wood. 
The  Indians  brought  us  some  pieces  for  sale, 
«  hicli  were  purchased  to  make  our  fires, 

October  31. — By  observation,  our  camp  is 
ii.  latitude  4fi°  50'  06",  and  longitude  119° 
Z?.'  18".  The  night  has  been  cold,  and  we 
li  ive  white  frost  this  morning,  with  a  tem- 
poraluro  at  daylight  of  26'*,  and  at  sunrise 
of  24".  The  early  morning  was  very  clear, 
and  the  stars  bright ;  but,  as  usual  since  we 
are  on  the  Columbia,  clouds  formed  imme- 
diatelv  with  the  rising  sun.  The  dav  con- 
tinued fine,  the  east  being  covered  with 
scattered  clouds,  but  tho  west  remaining 
clear;  showing  the  remarkable  cone-like 
psak  of  Mount  Hood  brigh'ly  drawn  against 


the  sky.  This  was  In  vli>w  nil  day  In  tha 
>oiithwe«t,  but  no  otlirr  penl(H  of  ilie  range 
were  vlnilili*.  Our  rood  was  a  IhmI  one,  ot 
very  looHo  di'cp  Hand.  Wo  met  on  the  war 
a  |Mrty  of  Indians  iiiiuNiMilly  well  dreiipotl, 
wcoriiig  rlothes  of  civilized  t.'.xtiire  anJ 
form.  They  iippcnn'd  iiitcliigeiit,  and,  in 
our  slight  lntereouri«e,  iinprexHeil  in«  with 
the  belief  that  they  ponxeKsed  soiiio  aptitude 
for  ac(|Uirinff  langna>;eN. 

Wo  continued  to  travel  along  the  river, 
the  stream  lieing  interspersed  with  many 
sand  bars  (it  U'ing  th(>  season  of  low  water) 
and  with  many  islandM,  and  an  apparently 
good  navigation.  Small  willows  were  tho 
only  wootfj  rock  and  sand  the  prominent 
geological  feature,  Tho  rock  of  this  section 
is  a  very  compact  and  tough  basalt,  occurring 
in  strata  which  havo  tho  appearance  of  being 
broken  into  fragments,  assuming  tho  form  o? 
columnar  hills,  and  apiiearing  always  in  ea* 
carpmonts,  with  the  broken  fragments  strew« 
ed  at  tho  base  and  over  tho  adjoining  coun- 
try. 

Wo  made  a  late  encampment  on  tho  rivor, 
and  used  to-night  purshia  triJenlala  for  fire 
wood.  Among  tho  rocks  which  formed  the 
bank,  wan  very  giH)d  green  grass,  latitude 
48°  44'  23",  longitude  1 19°  46'  0!)", 

Notember  1. — Mount  Hood  is  glowing  in 
the  sunlight  this  morning,  and  tho  air  is 
pleasant,  with  a  temperature  of  38°.  We 
continued  down  tho  river,  and,  passing 
through  a  pretty  green  valley,  bounded  by 
high  precipitous  rocKs,  encamped  at  the  lower 
end. 

On  the  right  shore,  the  banks  of  tho  Co- 
lumbia are  very  high  and  cteep  ;  the  river  is 
1,600  feet  broad,  and  dark  bluil's  uf  rock  give 
it  a  picturesque  appearance, 

November  2, —  The  river  here  entered 
among  bluffs,  leaving  no  longer  room  for  a 
road  ;  and  we  accordingly  left  it,  and  took  a 
more  inland  way  among  tho  river  hills  ;  on 
which  wo  had  no  sooner  entered,  than  we 
found  a  great  improvement  in  tho  country. 
The  sand  had  disRp|)eared,  and  the  soil  was 
good,  and  covered  with  excellent  grass,  al- 
though tho  surface  was  broken  into  high 
hill?,  with  uncommonly  deep  valleys.  At 
noon  we.  crossed  John  Day's  rivor,  a  clear 
and  bt>autifiil  stream,  with  a  swift  current 
and  a  lied  of  rolled  stones.  It  is  sunk  in  a 
deep  valley,  which  is  characteristic  of  all  the 
streams  in  this  region ;  and  the  hill  we  de- 
scended to  reach  it  well  deserves  the  name 
of  mountain.  Some  of  the  emigrants  had 
encamped  on  the  river,  and  others  at  the 
summit  of  tho  farther  hill,  the  ascent  of 
which  had  probably  cost  their  wagons  a  day's 
labor ;  and  others  again  had  halted  for  the 
night  a  few  miles  ^yond,  where  tney  had 
slept  without  water.  We  also  encamped  in 
a  grassy  hollow  without  water ',  but  aa  we 


~.^i- 


irMili' 


110 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1S4». 


IP 


11 


hud  been  forewarned  of  this  privation  by  the 
guide,  tlio  iii'.imals  liad  all  been  watered  at 
tlie  river,  and  we  hud  brought  with  ua  a  suf- 
licient  quantity  I'wr  tlie  niglit. 

Aocenhfr  3. — Alter  two  hours'  ride  througli 
a  fertile,  hilly  country,  covered  as  all  the  up- 
land here  apjieara  to  be  with  good  green 
grass,  we  descended  again  into  the  river  bot- 
tom, along  which  we  resumed  our  sterile 
road,  and  in  about  four  miles  reached  the 
ford  of  the  Fall  river  {Riviere  aux  Chutes), 
a  considerable  tributary  to  the  Columbia. 
We  had  heard  on  reaching  the  Nez  I'crc^  fort, 
a  repetition  of  the  account  in  regard  to  the  un- 
settled character  of  the  Columbia  Indians  at 
the  present  time ;  and  to  our  little  party  they 
had  at  various  points  manifested  a  not  very 
friendly  disposition,  in  several  attempts  to 
steal  our  horses.  At  this  place  I  expected 
to  find  a  badly  disposed  band,  who  nau  plun- 
dered a  party  of  14  emigrant  men  a  few  days 
before,  and  taken  away  their  horses;  and 
accordingly  we  made  the  necessary  prepara- 
tions for  our  security,  but  happily  met  with 
no  difficulty. 

The  river  was  high,  divided  into  several 
arms,  with  a  rocky  island  at  its  outlet  into 
the  Columbia,  which  at  this  place  it  rivalled 
in  size,  and  apparently  deserved  its  highly 
characteristic  name,  which  is  received  from 
one  of  its  many  falls  some  forty  miles  up  the 
river.  It  entered  the  Columbia  with  a  roar 
of  falls  and  rapids,  and  is  probably  a  favorite 
fishing  station  among  the  Indians,  with 
whom  both  banks  of  the  river  were  populous ; 
but  they  scarcely  paid  any  attention  to  us. 
The  ford  was  very  difficult  at  this  time,  and, 
had  they  entertained  any  bad  intentions,  they 
were  otFered  a  good  opportunity  to  carry 
them  out  as  I  drove  directly  into  the  river, 
and  during  the  crossing  the  howitzer  was 
occasionally  several  feet  under  water,  and  a 
number  of  the  men  appeared  to  be  more  often 
below  than  above.  Our  guide  was  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  ford,  and  we  succeeded  in 
getting  everything  safe  over  to  the  left  bank. 
We  delayed  iiere  only  a  short  time  to  put 
the  gun  in  order,  and,  ascending  a  long 
mountain  hill,  left  both  rivers,  and  resumed 
our  route  again  among  the  interior  hills. 

The  roar  of  the  Falln  of  the  Columbia  is 
heard  from  the  heights,  where  we  halted  a 
few  moments  to  enjoy  a  fine  view  of  the 
river  below.  In  the  season  of  high  water  it 
would  be  a  very  interesting  object  to  visit,  in 
order  to  witness  what  is  related  of  the  annual 
submerging  of  the  fall  under  the  waters 
which  back  up  from  the  basin  below,  consti- 
tuting a  great  natural  lock  at  this  place. 
But  time  had  become  an  object  of  serious 
consideration ;  and  the  Falls,  in  their  present 
state,  had  been  seen  and  described  by  many. 

After  a  day's  journey  of  17  miles,  wo  en- 
camped among  fhe  hills  on  a  little  clear 


stream,  where,  as  usual,  the  Indians  imtne 
diately  gathered  round  ns.  Among  them 
was  a  very  old  man,  almost  blind  from  age, 
with  long  and  very  white  hair.  I  happened 
of  my  own  accord  to  give  this  old  man  a  pre- 
sent of  tobacco,  and  was  struck  with  the  ini» 
preasion  which  my  unpropitiated  notice  made 
on  the  Indians,  who  appeared  in  a  remarka- 
ble manner  acquainted  with  the  real  value  of 
gooda,  and  to  understand  the  equivalenta  of 
trade.  At  evening,  one  of  them  spoke  a  few 
worda  to  his  people,  and,  telling  me  that  we 
need  entertain  no  uneasiness  in  regard  to  our 
animals,  ns  none  of  them  would  be  disturbed, 
they  went  all  quietly  away.  In  the  morning, 
when  they  iigain  came  to  the  camp,  I  ex- 
pressed to  them  the  gratification  we  felt  at 
their  reasonable  conduct,  making  f  hem  a  pre- 
sent of  some  large  knives  and  a  few  smaller 
articles. 

November  4. — The  road  continued  among 
the  hills,  and,  reaching  an  eminence,  we  saw 
before  us,  watered  by  a  clear  stream,  a 
tolerably  large  valley,  through  which  the 
trail  passed. 

In  comparison  with  the  Indians  of  the 
Rocky  mountains  and  the  great  eastern 
plain,  these  are  disagreeably  dirty  in  their 
habits.  Their  huts  were  crowded  with  half- 
naked  women  and  children,  and  the  atmo- 
sphere within  anything  but  pleasant  to  per- 
sons who  had  just  been  riding  in  the  fresh 
morning  air.  We  were  somewhat  amused 
with  the  scanty  dress  of  one  woman,  who,  in 
common  with  the  others,  rushed  out  of  the 
huts  on  our  arrival,  and  who,  in  default  of 
other  covering,  used  a  child  for  a  fig  leaf. 

The  road  in  about  half  an  hour  passed  near 
an  elevated  point,  from  which  we  overlooked 
the  valley  of  the  Columbia  for  many  miles, 
and  savv  in  the  distance  several  houses  sur- 
rounded by  fields,  which  a  chief,  who  had 
accompanied  us  from  the  village,  pointed  out 
to  us  as  the  Methodist  missionary  station. 

In  a  few  miles  we  descended  to  the  river, 
which  we  reached  at  one  of  its  remarkably  in- 
teresting features,  known  as  the  Dalles  of  the 
Columbia.  The  whole  volume  of  the  river  at 
this  place  passed  between  the  walls  of  a 
chasm,  which  has  the  appearance  of  having 
been  rent  through  the  basaltic  strata  which 
form  the  valley  rock  of  the  region.  At  *hc 
narrowest  place  we  found  the  breadth,  by  mea- 
surement, 68  yards,  and  the  average  height 
of  the  walls  above  the  water  25  feet ;  form- 
ing a  trough  between  the  rocks — svhence  the 
name,  probably  applied  by  a  Canadian  voya- 
geur.  The  mass  of  water,  in  the  present 
low  state  of  the  river,  passed  swiftly  l>e- 
tween,  deep  and  black,  and  curled  into  many 
small  whirlpools  and  counter  currents,  but 
unbroken  by  foam,  and  so  still  th^.  — .ceiy 
the  sound  of  a  rippie  was  ncara.  The  rock, 
for  a  considerable  distance  from  the  river. 


\i 


FE. 


[1S4». 


ks  usual,  tho  Indians  imme 
il  round  us.  Among'  them 
I  man,  almost  blind  from  age, 
Jery  white  hair.  I  happened 
Ird  to  give  this  old  man  a  pre- 
land  was  struck  with  the  ini. 
W  unpropitiatcd  notice  made 
kvho  appeared  in  n  remarka- 
lainted  with  the  real  value  of 
liderstand  tho  equivalents  of 
ling,  one  of  them  spoke  a  few 
pple,  and,  tellinjr  me  that  we 
b  uneasiness  in  regard  to  our 
P  of  them  would  he  disturbed, 
lietly  away.  In  tho  morning, 
n  came  to  the  camp,  I  e.\- 
the  gratification  we  felt  at 
conduct,  making  them  a  pre- 
•ge  knives  and  a' few  smaller 

-The  road  continued  among 
aching  an  eminence,  we  saw 
red  l)y  a  clear  stream,  a 
valley,   through  which  the 

n   with   the  Indians  of  the 
ins    and    the  great  ea.stern 

disagreeably  dirty  in  their 
luts  were  crowded  with  half- 
nd  children,  and  the  atmo- 
nything  but  pleasant  to  per- 
ist  been  riding  in  the  fresh 
Ve  were  somewhat  amused 
dress  of  one  woman,  who,  in 
le  others,  rushed  out  of  the 
val,  and  who,  in  default  of 
used  a  child  for  a  fig  leaf. 
)out  half  an  hour  passed  near 
it,  from  which  we  overlooked 
5  Columbia  for  many  miles, 
distance  several  houses  sur- 
Is,  which  a  chief,  who  had 
from  the  village,  pointed  out 
liodist  missionary  station. 
1  we  descended  to  the  river, 
d  at  one  of  its  remarkably  in- 
3,  known  as  the  Dalles  of  the 
whole  volume  of  the  river  at 
id  between  the  walls  of  a 
8  the  appearance  of  having 
■h  the  basaltic  strata  which 
ock  of  tho  region.    At  *ho 
}c  found  the  breadth,  by  mea- 
ds, and  the  average  height 
re  the  water  25  feet ;  form- 
reen  the  rocks— whence  the 
pplicd  by  a  Canadian  voya- 
3  of  water,  in  the  preuent 

river,  passed  swiftly  Iw- 
)lack,  and  curled  into  many 
and  counter  currents,  but 
I,  and  so  still  tlu.  „.,„.ceiy 
pie  was  neara.  The  rock, 
B  distance  from  the  river. 


1843.1 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  xXARRATlVK. 


Ill 


(vas  worn  over  a  largo  portion  of  its  surface 
into  circular  holes  and  well-like  cavities,  by 
tho  abrasion  of  the  river,  which,  at  the  sea- 
son of  high  waters,  is  spread  out  over  the 
adjoining  bottoms. 

In  the  recent  passage  through  this  chasm, 
an  unfortunate  event  had  occurred  to  Mr.  Ap- 
njegate's  party,  in  the  loss  of  one  of  their 
DOi^ts,  which  had  been  carried  under  water  in 
the  midst  of  the  Dalles,  and  two  of  Mr.  Apple- 
gaie's  children  and  one  man  drowned.  This 
misfortune  was  attributed  only  to  want  of 
skill  in  the  steersman,  as  at  this  .season  there 
is  no  impediment  to  navigation;  although 
the  place  is  entirely  impassable  at  high  wa- 
ter, when  boats  pass  safely  over  the  great 
fall"  above,  in  the  submerged  state  in  which 
they  .'hen  find  themselves. 

The  Sasalt  here  is  precisely  the  same  as 
that  whicii  constitutes  the  rock  of  the  valley 
higher  up  the  Columbia,  being  very  compact, 
with  a  few  round  cavities. 

We  passed  rapidly  three  or  four  miles 
down  the  level  valley,  and  encamped  near 
the  mission.  The  character  of  the  forest 
crowth  here  changed,  and  we  found  our- 
selves, with  pleasure,  again  among  oaks  and 
other  forest  trees  of  the  east,  to  whicli  we 
had  long  been  strangers ;  and  the  hospita  ale 
and  kind  reception  with  which  we  were  wel- 
comed among  our  country  people  at  the  mis- 
sion aided  the  momentary  illusion  of  home. 

Two  good-looking  wooden  dwelling  hous(;s, 
and  a  large  school  house,  with  stables,  bam, 
and  garden,  and  large  cleared  fields  betweei? 
the  nouses  and  the  river  bank,  on  which 
were  scattered  the  wooden  huts  of  an  Indian 
village,  gave  to  the  valley  the  cheerful  and 
busy  air  of  civilisation,  and  had  in  our  eyes 
an  appearance  of  abundant  and  enviable  com- 
fort. 

Our  Iraid  journey  found  here  its  western 
tirmination.  The  delay  involved  in  getting 
ouk  camp  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Columbia, 
and  in  opening  a  road  through  the  continu- 
ous forest  to  Vancouver,  rendered  a  journey 
along  the  river  impracticable;  and  on  this 
side  the  usual  road  across  the  mountain  re- 
quired strong  and  fresh  animals,  there  being 
an  interval  of  three  days  in  which  they  coc^ld 
obtain  no  food.  I  therefore  wrote  immedi- 
ately to  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  directing  him  to 
abandon  the  carts  at  the  Walahwalah  mis- 
sionary station,  and,  as  soon  as  the  necessary 
pack  saddles  could  be  made,  which  his  party 
required,  meet  me  at  the  Dal'Co,  from  which 
point  I  proposed  to  comrr.ence  our  homeward 
journey.  The  d-.^  after  our  arrival  being 
Sunday,  r"  business  could  be  done  at  the 
mi<':,ion ;  but  on  Monday  Mr.  Perkins  assist- 
ed me  in  procuring  from  the  Indiana  a  large 
canoe,  in  which  I  designed  to  complete  our 
journey  to  Vancouver,  where  I  expected  to 
obtain  the  necessary  supply  of  provisions 


and  stores  for  our  winter  journey.  Throe 
Indians',  from  the  familv  to  whom  the  canoe 
belonged,  were  engaged  to  assist  in  working 
her  during  the  voyage,  and,  with  them,  otr.- 
water  p.arly  consisted  of  Mr.  Prouss  and  my- 
self, with  Bernier  and  Jacob  Dodson.  In 
charge  of  the  party  which  was  to  remain  at 
the  Dalles  I  left  Carjon,  with  instructions  tc 
occupy  the  people  in  making  pack  saddles 
and  refitting  their  equipage.  Tiie  village 
from  which  we  vvere  to  take  '''j  canoe  was 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  about  ten 
miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tinanens 
creek  ;  and  while  Mr  Prcuss  proceeded 
down  the  river  with  the  instruments,  in  a 
little  canoe  paddled  by  two  Indiins,  Mr.  Per- 
kins accompanied  me  with  the  remainder  of 
the  party  by  land.  The  last  of  the  emigrants 
had  just  left  tho  Dalles  at  the  time  of  our  ar- 
rival, travelling  some  by  water  and  others  b} 
land,  making  ark-like  rafts,  on  which  thej 
had  embarked  their  families  and  household, 
with  their  largo  wagons  and  other  furniture, 
wliile  their  stock  were  driven  along  the 
shore. 

For  about  five  miles  below  the  Dalles,  the 
river  is  narrow,  and  probably  very  deep  ;  but 
during  this  distance  it  is  spinewhat  open, 
with  grassy  bottoms  on  the  left.  Entering, 
then,  among  the  lower  mountains  of  the 
Cascade  range,  it  assumes  a  geneisl  charac- 
ter, and  high  and  steep  rocky  hills  shut  it  in 
on  either  side,  rising  abruptly  in  plates  to 
tho  height  of  1 ,500  icet  above  the  v, au^r,  and 
gradually  acquiring  ;>  more  mountainous 
character  as  the  rivpr  ipproaciies  the  Cas- 
cade a 

Afte.'  an  hour's  travel,  when  the  sun  was 
nearly  dtwn,  we  searched  along  the  shore 
foi'  a  pleisant  place,  and  halteJ  to  prepare 
supper.  We  had  been  well  supplied  by  our 
friends  at  the  mission  with  delicious  salted 
salmon,  which  had  been  taken  at  the  fattest 
season;  also,  with  potatoes,  bread,  cofiec, 
and  sugar.  We  w^re  delighted  at  a  change 
in  our  mode  of  travelling  and  living.  The 
canoe  sailed  smoothly  down  the  river  :  at 
night  we  encamped  upon  the  shore,  and  a 
plentiful  supply  of  comfortable  provisions 
supplied  the  first  cf  wants.  We  enjoyed  the 
contrast  which  it  presented  to  our  late  toil- 
some marchings,  our  night  watchings,  and 
our  frequent  privation  of  food.  We  were  a 
motley  group,  but  all  happy :  three  unknown 
Indians ;  Jacob,  a  colored  man ;  Mr.  Preuss, 
a  German  ;  Bernier,  Creole  French ;  and 
myself. 

Being  now  upon  the  ground  explored  by 
the  South  Sea  expedition  under  Captain 
Wilkes,  and  having  accomplished  the  object 
of  uniting  my  survey  with  his,  and  thus  pre- 
senting a  connected  exploration  from  the 
Mississippi  to  the  Pacific,  and  the  winter  be< 
ing  at  hand,  I  deemed  it  neceesary  to  cccd» 


,i»-i-' 


113 


CAI'T,  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1843 


mize  time  by  voynging  in  tlic  night,  as  is 
customary  here,  to  avoid  the  higii  winds, 
which  rise  with  the  morning,  and  decline 
with  tlio  day. 

Accordingly,  after  an  hour's  halt,  we  again 
embarked,  and  resumed  our  pleasant  voyage 
down  tiie  river.  The  wind  rose  to  a  gale 
after  several  hours  ;  but  the  mot>n  was  very 
brigiit,  and  the  wind  was  fair,  and  the  canoe 
glanced  rapidly  down  the  stream,  the  waves 
breaking  into  foam  alongside ;  and  our 
night  voyage,  as  the  wind  bore  us  rapidly 
along  between  the  dark  mountains,  was  wild 
and  interesting  About  midnight  we  put  to 
the  shore  on  a  rocky  beach,  behind  which 
was  a  dark-looking  pine  forest.  We  built  up 
large  fires  among  the  rocks,  which  were  in 
large  masses  round  about ;  and,  arranging 
our  blankets  on  the  most  sheltered  places  we 
could  find,  pas.sed  a  delightful  Might. 

After  an  early  breakfast,  at  daylight  we 
resumed  our  journey,  the  weather  being 
clear  and  beautiful,  and  the  river  smooth 
and  still.  On  either  side  the  mountains  are 
all  pine-tinibored,  rocky,  and  high.  We 
were  now  approaching  one  of  the  marked 
features  of  the  lower  Columbia,  where  the 
river  forms  a  great  cascade,  with  a  series  of 
rapids,  in  breaking  through  the  range  of 
mountains  to  wliich  the  lofty  peaks  of  Mount 
Hood  and  St.  Helens  belong,  and  which  rise 
as  great  pillars  of  snow  on  either  side  of  the 
passage.  The  main  branch  of  the  Sacra- 
tnenlo  river,  and  the  Tlamalh,  issue  in  cas- 
cades from  this  range ;  and  the  Columbia, 
breaking  through  it  in  a  succession  of  cas- 
cades, gives  the  idea  of  cascades  to  the 
whole  range  ;  and  hence  the  name  of  Cas- 
cade Range,  which  it  bears,  and  distin- 
f;ui8he8  it  from  the  Coast  Range  lower  down, 
n  making  a  short  turn  to  the  south,  the 
river  forms  the  cascades  in  breaking  over  a 
point  of  agglomerated  messes  of  rock,  leav- 
ing a  handsome  bay  to  the  right,  with  seve- 
ral rocky  pine-covered  islands,  and  the 
mountains  sweep  at  a  distance  around  a 
cove  where  several  small  streams  enter  the 
bay.  In  less  than  an  hour  we  halted  on  the 
left  bank,  about  five  minutes'  walk  above 
the  cascades,  where  there  were  several  In- 
dian huts,  and  where  our  guides  signified  it 
was  customary  to  hire  Indians  to  assist  in 
making  the  poriage.  When  travelling  with 
a  boat  as  light  as  a  canoe,  which  may 
easily  be  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  the  In- 
dians, this  is  much  the  better  side  of  the 
river  for  the  portage,  as  the  ground  here  is 
very  good  and  level,  being  a  Iiandsome  bot- 
tom, which  I  remarked  was  covered  {as  was 
now  always  the  case  along  the  river)  with  a 
growth  of  green  and  fresh-looking  grass. 
It  was  long  before  we  could  come  to  an  un- 
derstanding with  the  Indians;  but  at  length, 
vhen  thev  had  first  received   the  Drice  of 


their  assistance  in  goods,  they  went  vigor- 
ou.xly  to  work  ;  and,  in  a  shorter  time  than 
had  been  occupied  in  making  our  arrange- 
mcnts,  tl.e  canoe,  instruments,  and  baggage, 
were  carried  through  (a  distance  of  about 
half  a  mile)  to  the  bank  below  the  main 
cascade,  where  we  again  embarked,  the 
water  being  white  with  foam  among  ugly 
rocks,  and  boiling  into  a  thousand  whirl- 
pools. The  boat  passed  with  great  rapidity; 
crossing  and  recrossing  in  the  eddies  of  the 
current.  After  passing  through  about  two 
miles  of  broken  water,  we  ran  some  wild 
looking  rapids,  which  are  called  the  Lower 
Rapids,  being  the  last  on  the  river,  which 
below  is  tranquil  and  smooth — a  broad,  mag- 
nificent stream.  On  a  low  broad  point  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  river,  at  the  lower  end 
of  these  rapids,  were  pitched  many  tents  of 
the  emigrants,  who  were  waiting  here  for 
their  friends  from  above,  or  for  boats  and 
provisions  which  were  expected  from  Van- 
couver. In  our  passage  down  the  rapids,  I 
had  noticed  their  camps  along  the  shore,  or 
transporting  their  goods  across  the  portage. 
This  portage  makes  a  head  of  navigation, 
ascending  the  river.  It  is  about  two  miles 
in  length ;  and  above,  to  the  Dalles,  is  45 
miles  of  smooth  and  good  navigation. 

We  glided  on  without  further  interruption 
between  very  rocky  and  high  steep  moun- 
tains, which  sweep  along  the  river  valley  at 
a  little  distance,  covered  with  forests  of  pine, 
and  showing  occasionally  lofty  escarpments 
of  red  rock.  Nearer,  the  shore  is  bordered 
by  steep  escarped  hills  and  huge  vertical 
rocks,  from  which  the  waters  of  the  moun 
tain  reach  the  river  in  a  variety  of  beautiful 
falls,  sometimes  several  hundred  feel  in 
height.  Occasi(mally  along  the  river  occur- 
red pretty  bottoms,  covered  with  the  green- 
eat  verdure  of  the  sprint.  To  a  profession- 
al farmer,  however,  it  does  not  offer  many 
places  of  sufficient  extent  to  be  valuable  for 
agriculture ;  and  after  passing  a  few  miles 
below  the  Dalles,  I  had  scarcely  seen  a  place 
on  the  south  shore  where  wagons  could  get 
to  the  river.  The  beauty  of  the  scenery 
was  heightened  by  the  continuance  of  very 
delightful  weather,  resembling  the  Indian 
summer  of  the  Atlantic.  A  few  miles  be- 
low the  cascades,  we  passed  a  singular  iso- 
lated hill ;  and  in  the  course  of  the  next  six 
miles  occurred  live  very  pretty  falls  from  the 
heights  on  the  left  bank,  one  of  them  being 
of  a  very  picturesque  character ;  and  towards 
sunset  we  reached  a  remarkable  point  of 
rocks,  distinguished,  on  account  of  prevail- 
ing high  winds,  and  the  delay  it  frequently 
occasions  to  the  canoe  navigation,  by  the 
name  of  Cape  Horn.  It  borders  the  river 
in  a  high  wall  of  rock,  which  comes  boldly 
down  into  deep  water ;  and  in  violent  galei 
down  tlie  river,  and  from  the  opposite  snore. 


[1843 

goods,  tliey  went  vii»or- 
,  in  a  ^liortor  time  than 
in  making  our  arrangc- 
n><trument3,  ami  bapgajre, 
iigi)  (a  distance  of  about 
lie  bank  below  the  main 
vc   again   embarked,  the 
with  foam  among  ugly 
into  a  thousand  whirl- 
lassed  with  great  rapidity, 
ssing  in  the  eddies  of  the 
ssing  through  about  two 
atcr,  we  ran  some  wild 
ich  are  called  the  Lower 
last  on  the  river,  which 
id  smooth — a  broad,  mag- 
)ii  a  low  broad  point  on 
the  river,  at  the  lower  end 
?re  pitched  many  tents  of 
10  were  waiting  here  for 
above,  or   for  boats  and 
ivcre  expected  from  Van- 
assage  down  the  mpids,  I 
camps  along  the  shore,  or 
goods  across  the  portage. 
[OS  a  head  of  navigation, 
r.    It  is  about  two  miles 
bove,  to  the  Dalles,  is  45 
nd  good  navigation, 
'ithout  further  interruption 
iy  and  high  steep  moun- 
p  along  the  river  valley  at 
overed  with  forests  of  pine, 
isionally  lofty  escarpments 
irer,  the  shore  is  bordered 
i  hills  and  huge  vertical 
the  waters  of  the  moun 
;r  in  a  variety  of  beautiful 
several   hundred  feel    in 
lally  along  the  river  occur- 
!,  covered  with  the  green- 
spring.    To  a  profession- 
r,  it  docs  not  ollbr  many 
t  extent  to  be  valuable  for 
after  passing  a  few  miles 
I  had  scarcely  seen  a  place 
!  where  wagons  could  get 
io  beauty  of  the  scenery 
{ the  continuance  of  very 
r,  resembling  the  Indian 
itlantic.    A  few  miles  be- 
,  we  passed  a  singular  iso- 
tlie  course  of  thp  next  six 
e  very  pretty  falls  from  the 
t  bank,  one  of  them  being 
uc  character;  and  towards 
id  a  remarkable  point  of 
;d,  on  account  of  prevail- 
id  the  delay  it  frequently 
canoe  navigation,  \jy  the 
'orn.    It  borders  the  river 
rock,  which  comes  boldly 
atcr ;  and  in  violent  ralei 
d  from  the  opposite  sEore. 


1848.1 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


Ill 


which  is  the  prevailing  direction  of  strong 
winds,  the  water  is  dashed  against  it  with 
considerable  violence.  It  appears  to  form  a 
serious  obstHclo  to  canoe  travelling;  and  I 
was  informed  by  Mr.  Perkins,  that  in  a  voy- 
age up  the  river  ho  had  been  detained  two 
weeks  at  this  place,  and  was  finally  obliged 
to  return  to  Vancouver. 

The  winds  of  this  region  deserve  a  par- 
ticular study.  They  blow  in  currents, 
which  show  them  to  be  covemed  by  fixed 
laws ;  and  it  is  a  problem  now  far  they  may 
come  from  the  mountains,  or  from  the  ocean 
through  U:e  breaks  in  the  mountains  which 
let  out  the  river. 

The  hills  here  had  lost  something  of  their 
rocky  appearance,  and  had  already  begun  to 
decline.  As  the  sun  went  down,  we  search- 
ed along  the  riv?rfor  an  inviting  spot;  and, 
finding  a  clean  rocky  beach,  where  some 
large  dry  trees  were  lying  on  the  ground, 
we  rail  our  boat  to  the  shore  ;  and,  after  an- 
other comfortable  supper,  ploughed  our  way 
along  the  river  in  darkness.  Heavy  clouds 
covered  the  sky  this  evening,  and  the  wind 
began  to  sweep  in  gusts  among  the  trees,  as 
if  nad  weather  were  coming.  As  we  ad- 
vanced, the  hills  on  both  sides  grew  con- 
stant'y  lower ;  on  the  right,  retreating  from 
tlx'  ire,  and  forming  a  somewhat  exten- 
c.  "f-  'foh'  of  intermingled  prairie  and 
wo  r.  *.-;.  In  the  course  of  a  few  hours, 
ai'  r:,  iS  to  a  small  stream  coming  in 
from  the  north,  called  the  Tea  Prairie  river, 
the  highlands  on  the  leO.  declined  to  the 
plains,  and  three  or  four  miles  tit'ow  disap- 
peared entirely  on  both  sides,  and  the  river 
entered  the  low  country.  The  river  itud 
crmdually  expanded ;  and  when  we  emerged 
from  the  highlands,  the  opposite  shores  were 
80  distant  as  to  appear  indistinct  in  the  un- 
certainty of  the  light.  About  10  o'clock 
our  pilots  halted,  apparently  to  confer  about 
the  course ;  and,  ailer  a  little  hesitation, 
palled  directly  across  an  open  expansion  of 
the  river,  where  the  waves  were  somewhat 
rough  for  a  canoe,  the  wind  blowing  very 
fresli.  Much  to  our  surprise,  a  few  minutes 
afterwards  we  ran  aground.  Backing  off 
our  boat,  we  made  repeated  trials  at  various 
places  to  cross  what  appeared  to  be  a  point 
of  shifting  sand  bars,  where  we  had  at- 
tempted to  shorten  the  way  by  a  cut-off.  Pi- 
luilly,  one  of  our  Indians  got  into  the  water, 
and  waded  about  until  he  found  a  channel 
mifficiently  deep,  through  which  we  wound 
along  after  him,  and  in  a  few  minutes  again 
entered  the  deep  water  below.  As  we  pad- 
dled rapidly  down  the  river,  we  heard  the 
noise  of  a  saw  mill  at  work  on  the  right 
bank;  and,  letting  our  boat  float  qnietly 
down,  we  listened  with  pleasure  to  the  unu- 
taal  sounds  ;  and  before  midnight  encamped 
Bn  the  bank  of  tlie  river,  about  a  mile  above 


Fort  Vancouver.  Our  fine  dry  weather  had 
given  place  to  u  dark  cloudy  i.ight.  At  mia- 
nlght  it  began  to  rain ;  and  we  found  our- 
selves suddenly  in  the  gloomy  and  humid 
season,  which,  in  the  narrow  region  lying 
between  the  Pacific  and  the  Cascade  moun- 
tains,  and  for  a  considerable  distance  along 
the  coast,  supplies  the  place  of  winter. 

In  the  morning,  the  first  object  that  at- 
tracted my  attention  was  the  barque  Colum- 
bia, lying  at  anchor  near  the  landing.  She 
was  about  to  start  on  her  voyage  to  England, 
and  was  now  ready  for  sea ;  being  detained 
only  in  waiting  the  arrival  of  the  express 
bateaus,  which  descend  the  Columbia  and 
its  north  fork  with  the  overland  mail  from 
Canada  and  Hudson's  bay,  which  had  been 
delayed  beyond  their  usual  time.  I  immedi- 
ately waited  upon  Dr.  McLaughlin,  the  ex- 
ecutive officer  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
in  the  territory  west  of  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains, who  received  me  with  the  courtesy  and 
hospitality  for  which  he  has  been  eminently 
distinguished,  and  which  makes  a  forcible 
and  delightful  impression  on  a  traveller 
from  the  long  wilderness  from  which  we  had 
issued.  I  was  immediately  supplied  by  him 
with  the  necessary  stores  and  provisions  to 
refit  and  snppi  U  my  party  in  our  contemplat- 
t  "  winter  journey  to  the  States ;  and  also 
V  ith  a  Mackinaw  boat  and  canoes,  manned 
T  ith  Canadian  and  Iroquois  voyageurs  and 
Indians,  for  their  transportation  to  the  Dalles 
of  the  Columbia.  In  addition  to  this  efficient 
kindness  in  furnishing  me  with  tliese  neces- 
sary supplies,  I  received  from  him  a  warm 
and  gratifying  sympathy  in  the  suflering 
which  his  great  experience  led  him  to  antici- 
pate for  us  in  our  homeward  journey,  and  a 
letter  of  recommendation  and  credit  for  any 
officers  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  into 
whose  posts  we  might  be  driven  by  unex« 
pccted  misfortune. 

Of  course,  the  future  supplies  for  my  party 
were  paid  for, bills  on  the  Government  of  the 
United  States  being  readily  taken ;  but  every 
hospitable  attention  was  extended  to  me,  and 
I  accepted  an  invitation  to  take  a  room  in  the 
fort,  "  and  to  make  myself  at  home  tchile  1 
stayed." 

I  found  many  American  emigrants  at  the 
fort;  others  had  already  crossed  the  river 
into  their  land  of  promise— the  Walahmette 
valley.  Others  were  daily  arriving;  and  all 
of  them  had  been  furnished  with  shelter,  so 
far  as  it  could  be  aflbrded  by  the  buildings 
connected  with  the  establishment.  Necessa- 
ry clothing  and  provisions  (the  latter  to  be 
afterwards  rcti»mcd  in  kind  from  the  produce 
of  their  labor)  were  also  furnished.  This 
friendly  assistance  was  of  very  great  value 
to  the  emigrants,  whose  families  were  other- 
wise exposed  to  much  suileringin  the  winter 
rains,  which  had  now  commenrcd.  at  the 


.ioM 


■4  m^- 


114 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1841 


II 


■ame  timo  that  they  were  in  want  of  all  the  I 
common  necessaries  of  life.  Those  who  had 
taken  a  water  conveyance  at  the  Nez  Perc^ 
fort  joiitinued  to  arrive  safely,  with  no  other 
accident  than  has  been  already  mentioned. 
The  party  which  had- crossed  over  the  Cas- 
cade mountains  were  reported  to  have  lost  a 
number  of  their  animals ;  and  those  who  had 
driven  their  stock  down  the  Columbia  had 
Drought  them  safely  in,  and  found  for  them  a 
ready  and  very  profltabic  market,  and  were 
already  proposing  to  return  to  the  States  in 
the  spring  for  another  supply. 

In  the  space  of  two  days  our  preparations 
had  been  completed,  and  we  were  ready  to 
set  out  on  cut'  return.  It  would  have  been 
very  gratif}  ing  to  have  gone  down  to  the  Pa- 
cific, and,  r.olely  in  the  interest  and  in  the  love 
of  geography,  t(.t  have  seen  the  ocean  on  the 
western  as  well  .\s  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
continent,  so  aj  t>  give  a  satisfactory  com- 
pleteness to  the  reographical  picture  which 
nad  been  formed  in  our  minds ;  but  the  rain^ 
season  had  .low  regularly  set  in,  and  the  air 
was  filled  with  fogs  and  rain,  which  left  no 
beauty  in  any  scenery,  and  obstructed  obser- 
vations. The  object  of  my  instructions  had 
been  entirely  fulfilled  in  having  connected 
our  reconnoi'ssance  with  the  surveys  of  Cap- 
b>.in  Wilkes;  and  although  it  would  have 
been  agreeable  and  satisfactory  to  terminate 
here  also  our  ruder  astronomical  observa- 
tions, I  was  not,  for  such  a  reason,  justified 
to  make  a  delay  in  waiting  for  favorable 
weather. 

Near  sunset  of  the  10th,  the  boats  left  the 
fort,  and  encamped  after  making  only  a  few 
miles.  Our  flotilla  consisted  of  a  Mackinaw 
bar^  and  three  canoes— one  of  them  that  in 
which  we  had  de8C'>ndod  the  river ;  and  a 
party  in  all  of  twenty  men.  One  of  the  emi- 
grants, Mr.  Burnet,  of  Missouri,  who  had 
left  hia  family  and  property  at  the  Dalles, 
availed  himself  of  the  opportunity  afibrded 
by  the  return  of  our  boats  to  bring  them 
down  to  Vancouver.  This  gentleman,  aa 
well  as  the  Messrs.  Applegate,  and  others  of 
the  emigrants  whom  I  saw,  possessed  intelli- 
gence and  character,  with  the  moral  and  in- 
tellectual stamina,  as  well  as  the  enterprise, 
which  give  solidity  and  respectability  to  the 
foundation  of  colonies. 

November  11. — The  morning  was  rainy 
and  misty.  We  did  not  move  with  the  prac- 
tised celerity  of  my  own  camp ;  and  it  was 
near  9  o'clock  when  our  motley  crew  had 
finished  their  breakfast  and  were  ready  to 
start.  Once  afloat,  however,  they  worked 
«teadily  and  well,  and  we  advanced  at  a  good 
rate  up  the  river;  and  in  the  afternoon  a 
breeze  sprung  up,  which  enabled  us  to  add  a 
oail  to  the  oars.  At  evening  we  encamped 
on  a  wami-look<ng  beach,  on  the  right  bank, 
at  the  foot  of  the  nigh  river  hill,  imuhidiately 


at  the  lower  end  of  Cape  Horn.  On  the  op> 
posite  shore  is  said  to  be  a  singular  hole  in 
the  mountain,  from  which  the  Indians  be- 
lieve comes  the  wind  producing  these  gales, 
It  is  called  the  Devil's  hole ;  and  the  Indians, 
I  was  told,  have  been  resolving  to  send  down 
one  of  their  slaves  to  explore  the  region  be- 
low. At  dark,  the  wind  shifted  into  its 
stormy  quarter,  gradually  increasing  to  a 
gale  from  the  southwest ;  and  tlie  sky  be- 
coming clear,  I  obtained  a  good  observation 
of  an  emersion  of  the  first  satellite ;  the  re- 
sult of  which,  being  an  absolute  observation, 
I  hnve  adopted  for  the  longitude  of  the  place, 

November  12. — The  wind  during  the  night 
had  increased  to  so  much  violence,  that  the 
broad  river  this  morning  was  angry  and 
white ;  the  waves  breaking  with  considera- 
ble force  against  this  rocky  wall  of  the  cape. 
Our  old  Iroquois  pilot  was  unwilling  to  risk 
the  boats  around  tne  point,  and  I  was  not  dis- 
posed to  hazard  the  stores  of  our  voyage  for 
the  delay  of  a  day.  Fuvther  observations 
were  obtained  during  the  day,  giving  for  the 
latitude  of  the  place  45°  33'  09" ;  and  the 
longitude,  obtained  from  the  satellite,  is  122 
6'  IS". 

November  13. — We  had  a  day  of  disagreea- 
ble and  cold  rain ;  and,  bte  in  the  afternoon, 
began  to  approach  the  rapids  of  the  cascades. 
There  is  here  a  high  timbered  island  on  the 
left  shore,  below  wliich,  in  descending,  I  had 
remarked  in  a  blufl'on  the  river  the  extremi- 
ties of  trunks  of  trees  appearing  to  be  im- 
bedded in  the  rock.  Landing  here  this  after- 
noon, I  fo  ad  in  the  lower  part  of  the  es- 
carpment .  stratum  of  coal  and  forest  trees, 
imbedded  between  strata  of  altered  clay 
containing  the  remains  of  vegetables,  the 
leaves  of  which  indicate  that  the  plants  were 
dicotyledonous.  Among  these,  the  stems  <A 
some  of  the  fe<  ns  are  not  mineralized,  but 
merely  charreo,  retaining  still  their  vegetable 
structure  and  substance ;  and  in  this  condi- 
tion a  portion  also  of  the  trees  remain.  The 
indurated  appearance  and  compactness  of  the 
strata,  as  well,  perhaps,  as  the  mineralized 
condition  of  the  coal,  are  probably  due  to 
igneous  action.  Some  portions  of  the  coal 
precisely  resemble  in  aspect  the  canal  coal 
of  England,  and,  with  the  accompanying 
fossib,  nave  been  referred  to  the  tertiary  fo^ 
mation. 

These  strata  appear  to  rest  upon  a  mass 
of  agglomerated  rock,  being  but  a  few  feet 
above  the  water  of  the  river ;  and  over  them 
is  the  escarpment  of  perhaps  eighty  feet, 
rising  gradually  in  the  rear  towards  the 
mountains.  The  wet  and  cold  evenini  and 
near  approach  of  night,  prevented  me  froir 
making  any  other  than  a  very  slight  examin- 
ation. 

The  current  was  now  very  swift,  and  «• 
were  obliged  to  cordelle  the  boat  along  th* 


[1842. 

f  Capo  Horn.  On  the  op 
d  to  be  a  singular  hole  in 
>m  wliicli  the  Indians  be< 
ind  producing  these  gales, 
vil's  hole ;  and  the  Indians, 
eon  resolving  to  send  down 
to  explore  the  region  be- 
he  wind  shifted  into  its 
j^radually  increasing  to  a 
uthwest ;  and  tlie  sky  be- 
>tained  a  good  observation 

the  first  satellite ;  the  re- 
ig  an  absoluto  observation, 

the  longitude  of  the  place. 
-Tlie  wind  during  the  night 
so  much  violence,  that  the 

morning  was  angry  and 
8  breaking  with  considera- 
this  rocky  wall  of  the  cape, 
pilot  was  unwilling  to  risk 
tne  point,  and  I  was  not  dis- 
hc  stores  of  our  voyage  for 
day.  Fih'ther  observations 
ring  the  day,  giving  for  the 
lace  45°  33'  09" ;  and  the 
ed  from  the  satellite,  is  122 

-We  had  a  day  of  disagreea- 
and,  late  in  the  afternoon, 
h  the  rapids  of  the  cascades, 
high  timoercd  island  on  the 
wnich,  in  descending,  I  had 
uffon  the  river  the  extremi- 
'  trees  appearing  to  bo  im- 
;k.  Landing  here  this  after- 
n  the  lower  part  of  the  es- 
;am  of  coal  and  forest  trees, 
?.en  strata  of  altered  clay 
remains  of  vegetables,  the 
indicate  that  the  plants  were 

Among  these,  the  stems  of 
18  are  not  mineralized,  but 
retaining  still  their  vegetable 
ibstance ;  and  in  this  condi- 
so  of  the  trees  remain.  The 
ranee  and  compactness  of  the 
perhaps,  as  the  mineralized 
)  coal,  are  probably  due  to 

Some  portions  of  the  coal 
^le  in  aspect  the  canal  coal 
id,  with  the  accompanying 
in  referred  to  the  tertiary  fo^ 

appear  to  rest  upon  a  mass 
1  rock,  being  but  a  few  feet 
of  the  river ;  and  over  them 
ent  of  perhaps  eighty  feet, 
f  in  the  rear  towards  the 
le  wet  and  cold  evenini  and 
jf  night,  prevented  me  (rm 
er  than  a  very  slight  examine 

was  now  very  swiil,  and  M 
cordelle  the  boat  along  th* 


1843.1 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


Ill 


left  shore,  where  the  bank  wan  covered  with 
large  masses  of  rocks.  Night  overtook  us 
at  tlie  upper  end  of  the  island,  a  short  dis- 
tance below  the  cascades,  and  we  halted  on 
the  open  point.  In  the  meantime,  the  lighter 
cnnoiM,  paddled  altogether  by  Indians,  had 
passed  ahead,  and  were  out  of  sight.  With 
thoni  was  the  lodge,  which  was  the  only 
shelter  we  had,  witn  most  of  the  bedding  and 

S revisions.  We  shouted,  and  fired  guns; 
ut  all  to  no  purpose,  as  it  was  impossible 
for  them  to  hear  above  the  roar  of  the  river : 
and  we  remained  all  night  without  shelter, 
the  rain  pouring  down  all  the  time.  The 
old  voyageurs  did  not  appear  to  mind  it 
much,  but  covered  themselves  up  as  well  as 
they  could,  and  lay  down  on  the  sand  beach, 
where  they  remained  quiet  until  morning. 
The  rest  of  us  spent  a  rather  miserable 
night ;  and,  to  add  to  our  discomfort,  the  in- 
cessant rain  extinguished  our  fires ;  and  we 
were  glad  when  at  last  daylight  appeared, 
and  we  again  embarked. 

Crossing  to  the  right  bank,  we  cordelled 
the  boat  along  the  shore,  there  being  no 
longer  any  use  for  the  paddles,  and  put  into 
a  little  bay  below  the  upper  rapids.  Here 
we  found  the  lodge  pitched,  and  about  twen- 
ty Indians  sitting  around  a  blazing  fire  with- 
in, making  a  luxurious  breakfast  with  sal- 
mon, breM,  butter,  sugar,  coffee,  and  other 
provi8ir>  ^,.  In  the  forest,  on  the  edge  of  the 
nigh  bi  .iff  overlooking  the  river,  is  an  Indian 
grave  yard,  consisting  of  a  collection  of 
tombs,  in  each  of  which  were  the  scattered 
bones  of  many  skeletons.  The  tombs  were 
made  of  boards,  which  were  ornamented  with 
many  figures  of  men  and  animals  of  the 
natural  size — from  their  appearance,  consti- 
tuting the  armorial  device  by  which,  among 
Indians,  the  chiefs  are  usually  known. 

The  masses  of  rock  displayed  along  the 
ihores  of  the  ravine  in  the  nei^hborhoiDd  of 
the  cascades  are  clearly  volcanic  products. 
Between  this  cove,  which  I  called  Grave- 
fard  bay,  and  another  spot  of  smooth  water 
Above,  on  the  right,  called  LAders  bay,  shel- 
tered bv  a  jutting  point  of  huge  rocky  masses 
at  the  foot  of  the  cascades,  the  shore  along 
the  intervening  rapids  is  lined  with  preci- 
pices of  distinct  strata  of  red  and  variously 
colored  lavas,  in  inclined  positions. 

The  masses  of  rock  forming  the  point  at 
Liiders  bay  consist  of  a  porous  trap,  or 
basalt — a  volcanic  product  of  a  modern 
period.  The  rocks  belong  to  agglomerated 
masses,  which  form  the  immediate  ground  uf 
the  —toCautfS,  and  have  been  aiready  men- 
tioned as  constituting  a  bed  of  cemented  con- 
glomerate rocks  appearing  at  various  places 
along  the  river.  Here  they  are  scattered 
■long  the  shores,  and  through  the  bed  of  the 
river,  wearing  the  character  of  convulsion. 


which  forms  the  impressive  and  prominent 
feature  of  the  river  at  this  place. 

Wherever  we  came  in  contact  with  th* 
rocks  of  these  mountains,  we  found  ttiem 
volcanic,  which  is  probably  the  character  oi 
the  range  ;  and  at  this  time,  two  of  the  great 
snowy  cones.  Mount  Regnler  aod  St.  Hel> 
ens,  were  in  action.  On  the  '.  id  of  the  pre- 
ceding November,  St.  Helens  iiad  scattered 
its  asLes,  like  a  light  fall  of  snow,  over  the 
Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  60  miles  distant. 
A  specimen  of  these  ashes  was  given  to  me 
by  Mr.  Brewer,  one  of  the  clergymen  at  the 
Dalles. 

The  lofty  range  of  the  Cascade  mountains 
forms  a  distinct  ooundary  between  tlie  oppo- 
site climates  of  the  rogions  along  its  western 
and  eastern  bases.  On  the  west,  they  pre- 
sent a  barrier  to  the  clouds  of  fog  and  rain 
which  roll  up  from  the  Pacific  ocean  and 
beat  against  their  rugged  sides,  forming  the 
rainy  season  of  the  winter  in  the  country 
along  the  coast.  Into  the  brighter  skies  uf 
the  region  along  their  eastern  base,  this 
rainy  winter  never  penetrates ;  and  at  the 
Dalles  of  the  Columbia  the  rainy  season  is 
unknown,  the  brief  winter  being  limited  to  a 
period  of  about  two  months,  during  which 
the  earth  is  covered  with  the  slight  snows  of 
a  climate  remarkably  mild  for  so  high  a  lati- 
tude. The  Cascade  range  has  an  average 
distance  of  about  130  miles  from  the  sea 
coast.  It  extends  far  both  north  and  south 
of  the  Columbia,  and  is  indicated  to  the  dis- 
tant observer,  both  in  course  and  position,  by 
the  lofly  volcanic  peaks  which  rise  out  of  it, 
and  which  are  visible  to  an  immense  dis- 
tance. 

During  several  days  of  constant  rain,  it 
kept  our  whole  force  laboriously  employed 
in  getting  our  barge  and  canoes  to  the  upper 
end  of  the  cascades.  The  portage  ground 
was  occupied  by  emigrant  families;  their 
thin  and  insufficient  clothing,  bare-headed 
and  bare-footed  children,  attesting  the  length 
of  their  journey,  and  showing  that  they  had, 
in  many  instances,  set  out  without  a  due 
preparation  of  what  was  indispensable. 

A  gentleman  named  LiUera,  a  botanis' 
from  the  city  of  Hamburg,  arrived  at  the  bai} 
I  have  called  by  his  name  while  we  were 
occupied  in  bringing  up  the  boats.  I  waa 
delighted  to  meet  at  such  a  place  a  man  of 
kindred  pureuits ;  but  we  had  only  the  plea* 
sure  of  a  brief  conversation,  as  his  canoe, 
under  the  guidance  of  two  Indians,  was 
about  to  run  the  rapids ;  and  I  could  not  en> 
joy  the  satisfaction  of  regaling  him  with  a 
breakfast,  which,  after  his  recent  journey, 
would  have  been  an  extraordinary  luxury. 
All  of  his  few  instruments  and  baggage  were 
in  the  canoe,  and  he  hurried  around  oy  land 
to  meet  it  at  the  Grave-yud  bay ;  but  h* 


4  «»»> 


116 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[184a. 


"...■/; 


was  scarcely  out  of  sight,  when,  by  the  care- 
lessness o!'  the  Indians,  the  boat  wax  drawn 
into  the  midst  of  the  rapids,  and  glanced 
down  (he  river,  bottom  np,  with  the  loss  of 
everything  it  contained.  In  the  natural 
concern  I  felt  for  his  misfortune,  I  gave  to 
the  little  cove  the  name  of  Ltiders  bay. 

November  15. — We  continued  lo-day  our 
work  at  the  portage. 

About  noon,  the  two  barges  of  the  express 
from  Montreal  arrived  at  the  upper  portage 
landing,  which,  fur  large  boats,  is  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river.  They  were  a  fine- 
looking  crew,  and  among  them  I  remarked 
a  fresh-looking  woman  and  her  daughter, 
emigrants  from  Canada.  It  was  satisfactory 
to  see  the  order  and  speed  with  which  these 
experienced  watermen  effected  the  portage, 
and  passed  their  boats  over  the  cascades. 
They  had  arrived  at  noon,  and  in  the  evening 
they  expected  to  reach  Vancouver.  These 
bateaus  carry  the  express  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company  to  the  highest  navigable  point 
of  the  north  fork  of  the  Columbia,  whence 
it  is  carried  by  an  overland  party  to  lake 
Winipec,  where  it  is  divided — part  going  to 
Montreal,  and  part  to  Hudson  Bay.  Thus 
a  regular  communication  is  kept  up  between 
three  very  remote  points. 

The  Canadian  emigrants  were  much  cha- 
grined at  the  change  of  climate,  and  in- 
formed me  that,  only  a  few  miles  above,  they 
had  lell  a  country  of  bright  blue  sky  and  a 
shining  sun.  The  next  morning  the  upper 
parts  of  the  mountains  which  directly  over- 
look the  cascades  were  white  with  the  fresh- 
ly fallen  snow,  while  it  continued  to  rain 
steadily  below. 

Late  in  the  aHemoon  we  finished  the  port- 
age, and,  embarking  again,  moved  a  little 
distance  up  the  right  bank,  in  order  to  elear 
the  smaller  rapids  of  the  cascades,  and  have 
a  smooth  river  for  the  next  morning.  Though 
we  made  but  a  few  miles,  the  weatlier  im- 
proved immediately;  and  though  the  rainy 
country  and  the  cloudy  mountains  were  close 
behind,  before  us  was  the  bright  sky ;  so  dis- 
tinctly is  climate  here  marked  by  a  moun- 
tain boundary. 

November  17. — We  had  to-day  an  oppor- 
tunity to  complete  the  sketch  of  that  por- 
tion of  the  river  down  which  we  had  —- 
by  night 

Many  places  occur  along  the  river,  where 
the  stumps,  or  rather  portions  of  the  truaks 
uf  pine  trees,  are  standing  along  the  shore, 
ana  in  the  water,  where  they  may  be  seen 
at  a  considerable  depth  below  the  surface, 
in  the  beautifully  clear  water.  These  col- 
lections of  dead  trees  are  called  on  the  Co- 
lumbia the  submerged  forest,  and  are  sup- 
posed to  have  been  created  by  the  effects  of 
some  convulsion  which  formed  the  cascades, 
(tnd  which,  by  damming  up  the  river,  placed 


tlieso  trees  under  water  and  destroyed  them, 
But  I  venture  to  presume  that  the  cascadca 
are  older  than  the  trees ;  and  as  these  sub. 
merged  forests  occur  at  five  or  six  places 
along  the  river,  I  had  an  opportunity  to  sa- 
tisfy myself  that  they  have  been  formed  by 
immense  land  slides  from  the  mountainfi, 
which  here  closely  shut  in  the  river,  and 
which  brought  down  with  them  into  th( 
river  the  pines  of  the  mountain.  At  onc 
place,  on  tne  right  bank,  I  remarked  a  place 
where  a  portion  of  one  of  these  slides  seem- 
ed to  have  planted  itself,  with  all  the  ever- 
green foliage,  and  the  vegetation  of  the 
neighboring  hill,  directly  amidst  the  falling 
antl  yellow  leaves  of  the  river  trees.  It  oc- 
curred to  me  that  this  would  have  been  a 
beautiful  illustration  to  the  eye  of  a  botanist. 

Following  the  course  of  a  slide,  which 
was  very  plainly  marked  along  the  moun- 
tain, I  found  that  in  the  interior  parts  the 
trees  were  in  their  usual  erect  position ;  but 
at  the  extremity  of  the  slide  they  were  rock- 
ed about,  and  thrown  into  a  confusion  of  in- 
clinations. 

About  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  pass- 
ed a  sandy  bar  in  the  river,  whence  we  had 
an  unexpected  view  of  Mount  Hood,  bearing 
directly  south  by  compass. 

During  the  day  we  used  oar  and  sail,  and 
at  night  had  again  a  delightful  camping 
ground,  and  a  dry  place  to  sleep  upon. 

November  18. — The  day  again  was  pleas- 
ant and  bright.  At  10  oclock  we  passed  a 
rock  island,  on  the  right  shore  of  the  river, 
which  the  Indians  use  as  burial  ground ;  and 
haltiig  for  a  short  time,  about  an  hour  after- 
wards, at  the  village  of  our  Indian  friends, 
early  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  again  at 
the  Dalles. 

Carson  had  removed  the  camp  up  the  river 
a  little  nearer  to  the  hills,  where  the  animals 
had  better  grass.  We  found  everything  in 
good  order,  and  arrived  just  in  time  to  par' 
take  of  an  excellent  roast  of  California  beef. 
My  friend,  Mr.  Gilpin,  had  arrived  in  ad- 
vance of  the  party.  His  object  in  visiting 
this  country  had  been  to  obtain  correct  in- 
formation of  the  Walahmette  settlements; 
and  he  had  reached  this  point  in  his  journey, 
highly  pleased  with  the  country  over  which 
he  haa  travelled,  and  with  invigorated 
health.  On  the  following  day  he  continued 
his  journey,  in  our  returning  boats,  to  Van- 
couver. 

The  camp  was  now  occupied  in  making 
the  necessary  preparations  forourhomewara 
journey,  which,  though  homeward,  contem- 
plated a  new  route,  and  a  great  circuit  to 
the  south  and  southeast,  ana  the  exploration 
of  the  Great  Basin  between  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains and  the  Sierra  Nevada.  Three  principa. 
objects  were  indicated,  by  report  or  by  maps, 
as  being  on  this  route ;  the  character  or  ex* 


[1841 

water  and  destroyed  them, 

preHiime  that  the  cascadca 

trees ;  and  as  theBO  sul)< 

ccur  at  five  or  six  placeo 

had  an  opportunity  to  nty- 

they  have  been  formed  by 

ides  from  the  monntainR, 

ly  shnt  in  the  river,  and 

own   with  them  into  the 

)f  the  mountain.     At  one 

It  bank,  I  remarked  a  place 

)f  one  of  these  slides  seem- 

itflclf,  with  all  the  ever- 
nd  the  vegetation  of  the 
directly  amidst  the  falling 
9  of  the  river  trees.     It  oc- 

thia  would  have  been  a 
ion  to  the  eye  of  a  botanist, 
course  of  a  slide,  which 
r  marked  along  the  moim< 
it  in  the  interior  parts  the 
lir  usual  erect  position ;  but 
of  the  slide  they  were  rock- 
■own  into  a  confusion  of  in- 

;k  in  the  aflemoon  we  pass- 
1  the  river,  wlience  we  had 
lew  of  Mount  Hood,  bearing 
compass. 

ly  we  used  oar  and  sail,  and 
gain  a  delightful  campmg 
ry  place  to  sleep  upon. 
— The  day  again  was  pleas- 
At  10  o  clock  we  passed  s 
the  right  shore  of  the  river, 
ns  use  as  burial  ground ;  and 
3rt  time,  about  an  hour  ailer- 
village  of  our  Indian  friends, 
srnoon  we  arrived  again  at 

emoved  the  camp  up  the  river 
}  the  hills,  where  the  animals 
1.    We  found  everything  in 

arrived  just  in  time  to  par- 
llent  roast  of  California  beef. 
.  Gilpin,  had  arrived  in  ad- 
irty.  His  object  in  visiting 
i  been  to  obtain  correct  in- 
le  Walahmette  settlements; 
shed  this  point  in  his  journey, 
with  the  country  over  which 
led,  and  with  invigorated 
e  following  day  he  continued 

our  returning  boats,  to  Van- 
as  now  occupied  in  making 
reparations  for  our  homeward 
,  though  homeward,  conteni- 
oute,  and  a  great  circuit  to 
ioutheast,  ana  the  exploration 
sin  between  the  Rocky  moun- 
'erra  Nevada.  Three  principa. 
dicated,  by  report  or  by  maps, 
s  route ;  the  character  at  ax- 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


I» 


ktence  of  which  I  wished  to  ascertain,  and 
which  I  assumed  as  landmarks,  or  leading 
points,  on  the  projected  lino  of  return.  The 
first  of  these  points  was  the  Tlamath  lake, 
on  the  table-land  between  the  head  of  Fall 
river,  which  comes  to  the  Columbia,  and  the 
Sacramento,  which  goes  to  the  bay  of  San 
Francisco ;  and  from  which  lake  a  river  of 
the  same  name  makes  its  way  westwardly 
direct  to  the  ocean.  This  lake  and  river  are 
olYen  called  Klamet,  but  I  have  chosen  to 
write  its  name  according  to  the  Indian  pro- 
nunciation. The  position  of  this  lake,  on 
the  line  of  inland  communication  between 
Oregon  and  California ;  its  proximity  to  the 
demarcation  lioundary  of  latitude  42*»;  its 
imputed  double  character  of  lake,  or  meadow, 
according  to  the  season  of  the  year;  and  the 
hostile  and  warlike  character  attributed  to 
the  Indians  about  it^ — all  made  it  a  desirable 
object  to  visit  and  examine.  From  this  lake 
our  course  was  intended  to  be  about  south- 
east,  to  a  reported  lake  called  Mary's,  at 
some  days'  journey  in  the  Great  Basin ;  and 
tlience,  still  on  southeast,  to  the  reputed  Bue- 
naventura river,  which  has  had  a  place  in 
80  many  maps,  and  countenanced  the  belief 
of  the  existence  of  a  great  river  flowing  from 
the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  bay  of  San 
Francisco.  From  the  Buenaventura  the 
next  point  was  intended  to  be  in  that  section 
of  the  Rocky  mountains  which  includes  the 
heads  of  Arkansas  river,  and  of  the  opposite 
waters  of  the  Californian  gulf;  and  tnence 
down  the  Arkansas  to  Bent's  fort,  and  home. 
This  was  our  projected  line  of  return — a 
great  part  of  it  absolutely  new  to  geographi- 
cal, botanical,  and  geological  science — and 
tlie  subject  of  reporU  in  relation  to  lakes, 
rivers,  deserts,  and  savages  hardly  above  the 
condition  of  mere  wild  animals,  which  in- 
flamed desire  to  know  what  this  terra  in- 
coffnila  really  contained. 

It  was  a  serious  enterprise,  at  the  com- 
mencement of  winter,  to  undertake  the  tra- 
verse of  such  a  region,  and  with  a  party 
consisting  only  of  twenty-five  persons,  and 
they  of  many  nation" — American,  French, 
German,  Canadian,  Indian,  and  colored — 
and  most  of  them  young,  several  being  un- 
der twenty-one  years  of  age.  All  knew  that 
K  strange  country  was  to  be  explored,  and 
dangers  and  hardships  to  be  encountered ; 
but  no  one  blenched  at  the  prospect.  On 
the  contrary,  courage  and  confidence  ani- 
mated the  whole  party.  Cheerfulness,  rea- 
diness, subordination,  prompt  obedience,  cha- 
racterized all ;  nor  aid  any  extremity  of 
peril  and  privation,  to  which  we  were  after- 
wards exposed,  evet  belie,  or  derogate  from, 
llie  fine  spirit  of  this  brave  and  generous 
commencement.  The  course  of  the  narra- 
tive will  show  at  what  point,  and  for  what 
nasons,  we  were  prevented  from  the  com- 


plete execution  of  this  plan,  after  having 
made  considerable  progress  upon  it,  and  how 
we  were  forced  by  desert  plains  and  moun« 
txin  ranges,  and  deep  snows,  far  to  the 
south,  and  near  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  and 
along  the  western  base  of  the  Sierra  Neva* 
da ;  where,  indeed,  a  new  and  ample  field  of 
exploration  opened  itself  before  us.  For 
the  present,  we  must  follow  the  narrative, 
which  will  first  lead  us  south  along  the  val- 
ley of  Fall  river,  and  the  eastern  base  of  the 
Cascade  range,  to  the  Tlamath  lake,  from 
which,  or  its  margin,  three  rivers  go  in  three 
directions — one  west,  to  the  ocean  ;  another 
north,  to  the  Columbia ;  the  third  south,  to 
California. 

For  the  support  of  the  party.  I  had  pro- 
vided at  Vancouver  a  supply  of  provisions 
for  not  less  than  three  months,  consisiting 
principally  of  flour,  peas,  and  tallow — the 
latter  being  used  in  cooking ;  and,  in  addi- 
tion to  this,  I  had  purchased  at  the  mission 
some  California  cattle,  which  were  to  be 
driven  on  the  hoof.  We  had  104  mules  and 
►•orses — part  of  the  latter  procured  from  the 
Indians  about  the  mission  ;  and  for  the  sus- 
tenance of  which,  our  reliance  was  upon 
the  grass  which  we  should  find,  and  the  soft 
porous  wood,  v/hich  was  to  bo  substituted 
when  there  was  none. 

Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  with  Mr.  Talbot  and  the 
remainder  of  the  party,  arrived  on  the  21  sir, 
and  the  camp  was  now  closely  engaged  in 
the  labor  of  preparation.  Mr.  Perkins  suc- 
ceeded in  obtaining  as  a  guide  to  the  Tla- 
math lake  two  Indians— one  of  whom  had 
been  there,  and  bore  the  marks  of  several 
wounds  he  had  received  from  some  of  the 
Indians  in  the  neighborhood  ;  and  the  other 
went  along  for  company.  In  order  to  ena- 
ble us  to  obtain  horses,  he  dispatched  mes- 
sengers to  the  various  Indian  villages  in  the 
neighborhood,  informing  them  that  we  were 
desirous  to  purchase,  and  appointing  a  day 
for  them  to  bring  them  in. 

We  made,  in  the  mean  time,  several 
excursions  in  the  vicinity.  Mr.  Perkins 
walked  with  Mr.  Preuss  and  myself  to  the 
heights,  about  nine  miles  distant,  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  river,  whence,  in  fine 
weather,  an  extensive  view  may  be  had  over 
the  mountains,  including  seven  great  peaks 
of  the  Cascade  range ;  but  clouds,  on  this 
occasion,  destroyed  the  anticipated  pleasure, 
and  we  obtained  bearings  only  to  three  that 
were  visible  :  Mount  Regnier,  St.  Helens, 
and  Mount  Hood.  On  the  heights,  about 
one  mile  south  of  the  mission,  a  very  fine 
view  may  be  had  of  Mount  Hood  and  St 
Helens.  In  order  to  determine  their  posi- 
tion with  as  much  accuracy  as  possible,  the 
angular  distances  of  the  peaks  were  me<»sur- 
ed  with  the  sextant,  at  different  fixed  point* 
from  which  they  could  be  seen. 


•Kli^ 


lit 


UAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


(1843. 


The  Indians  brought  in  their  horses  at 
the  appointed  time,  and  we  succeeded  in 
vbtaining  a  number  in  exchange  for  goods ; 
but  they  weru  relatively  much  higher  here, 
wl  are  goods  are  plenty  and  at  moderate 
pi'ioes,  than  we  had  found  them  in  the  more 
eastern  part  of  our  voyage.  Several  of  the 
Indians  inquired  very  anxiously  to  know  if 
we  had  any  dollars ;  and  the  horses  wc 
procured  were  much  fewer  in  number  than 
I  had  desired,  and  of  thin,  inferior  quality  ; 
the  oldest  and  poorest  being  thoDe  that 
were  sold  to  ua.  These  horses,  as  ever  in 
our  Journey  you  will  have  occasion  to  re- 
mark, are  valuable  fur  hardihood  and  great 
endurance. 

Novemhei  -24. — At  this  place  one  of  the 
men  was  dissliarged  ;  and  at  the  request  of 
Mr  Perkins,  a  Chinook  Indian,  a  lad  of 
nineteen,  wlm  was  extremely  desirous  to 
"  see  the  ivhites,"  and  make  some  acquaint- 
ance with  oui  institutions,  v  ''s  received  into 
the  party,  under  my  special  charge,  with 
the  understanding  that  I  would  again  re- 
turn him  to  his  friends.  He  had  lived  for 
some  time  in  the  household  of  Mr.  Perkins, 
and  spoke  a  few  words  of  the  English  lan- 
guage. 

November  25. — We  were  all  up  early,  in 
the  excitement  of  turning  towards  home. 
The  stirs  were  brilliant,  and  the  morning 
eoM — the  thermometer  at  daylight  26°. 

Our  preparations  had  been  fully  com- 
pleted, and  to-day  we  commenced  our  jour- 
ney. The  little  wagon  which  had  hitherto 
carried  the  instruments  I  Judged  it  necessary 
to  abandon  ;  and  it  was  accordingly  pre- 
sented to  the  miseion.  In  all  our  long  trav- 
elling, it  had  never  been  overturned  or  in- 
jured by  any  accident  of  the  road  ;  and  the 
only  things  broken  were  the  glass  lamps,  and 
one  of  the  front  panels,  which  had  been 
kicked  out  by  an  unruly  Indian  horse.  The 
howitzer  was  the  only  wheeled  carriage  now 
remaining.  We  started  about  noon,  when 
the  weather  had  become  disagreeably  cold, 
with  flurries  of  snow.  Our  friend  Mr.  Per- 
kins, whose  kindness  had  been  active  and  ef- 
ficient during  our  stay,  accompanied  us  sev- 
eral miles  on  our  road ;  when  he  bade  us 
farewell,  and  consigned  us  to  the  care  of 
our  guides.  Ascending  to  the  uplands  be- 
yond the  southern  fork  of  the  Tinanens 
creek,  we  found  the  snow  lying  on  the 
ground  in  frequent  patches,  although  the 
pasture  appeared  good,  and  the  new  short 
grass  was  fresh  and  green.  We  travelled 
over  high,  hilly  land,  and  encamped  on  a 
little  branch  of  Tinanens  creek,  where  there 
were  good  grass  and  timber.  The  southern 
bank  was  covered  with  snow,  which  was 
■cattored  over  the  Doitom ,  and  the  little 
ereek,  its  borders  lined  with  ice,  had  a  chilly 
•ad  wintry  look.    A  number  of  Indians  had 


accompanied  us  so  far  on  our  road,  and  re- 
mained with  us  during  the  night.  Two  had- 
looking  fellows,  who  were  detected  in  steal- 
ing, were  tied  and  laid  before  the  fire,  and 
guard  mounted  over  them  during  the  night. 
The  night  was  cold,  and  partially  clear. 

November  86. — Th  morning  was  cloudy 
and  misty,  and  but  a  few  stars  visible.  Dur- 
ing the  night  water  froze  in  the  tents,  and 
at  sunrise  the  thermometer  was  at  20°.  Iicft 
camp  at  10  o'clock,  the  road  leading  along 
tributaries  of  the  Tinanens,  and  being,  to 
far,  very  good.  We  turned  to  the  right  at 
the  fork  of  the  trail,  ascending  by  a  sleep 
ascent  along  a  spur  to  the  dividing  grounds 
between  this  stream  and  the  waters  of  Fall 
river.  The  creeks  we  had  passed  were 
timbered  principally  with  oak  and  other  de- 
ciduous trees.  Snow  lies  everywhere  here 
on  the  ground,  and  we  had  a  slight  fall  dur- 
ing the  morning ;  but  towards  noon  the  gray 
sky  yielded  to  a  bright  sun.  This  morning 
we  had  a  grand  view  of  St.  Helens  and 
Regnier  :  the  latter  appeared  of  a  conical 
form,  and  very  lofty,  leading  the  eye  far  up 
into  the  sky.  The  line  of  the  timbered 
country  is  very  distinctly  marked  here,  the 
bare  hills  making  with  it  a  remarkable  con- 
trast. The  summit  of  the  ridge  ccmmanded 
a  fine  view  of  the  Taih  praiiic,  and  the 
stream  running  through  it,  which  is  a  tribu- 
tary to  the  Fall  river,  the  chasm  of  which 
is  visible  to  the  right.  A  steep  descent  of 
a.mountain  hill  brought  us  down  into  the 
valley,  and  we  encamped  on  the  stream  af- 
ter dark,  guided  by  the  light  of  fires,  w  hich 
some  nakod  Indians  belonging  to  a  village 
on  the  opposite  side  were  kindling  for  us  on 
the  bank.  This  is  a  large  branch  of  the 
Fail  river.  There  was  a  broad  band  of 
thick  ice  some  fifteen  feet  wide  on  either 
bank,  and  the  river  current  is  swift  and 
bold.  The  night  was  cold  and  clear,  and 
we  made  our  astronomical  observation  this 
evening'  with  the  thermometer  at  80°. 

In  ai:.icipation  of  coming  hardship,  and 
to  spare  our  horses,  there  was  much  walk- 
ing done  to-day;  and  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and 
myself  made  the  day's  Journey  on  toot. 
Somewhere  near  the  mouth  of  this  strean 
are  the  falls  from  which  the  river  takes  ita 
name. 

November  87. — A  fine  view  of  Mount 
Hood  this  morning ;  a  rose-colored  mass  of 
snow,  bearing  S.  85°  W.  by  compass.  The 
sky  is  clear,  and  the  air  cold  ;  the  thermom- 
eter 2°.&  below  zero ;  the  trees  and  bushes 
glittering  white,  and  the  rapid  stream  filled 
with  floating  ice. 

Stiletsi  and  the  White  Crane,  two  Indian 
chiefs  who  had  nccompanied  us  thus  far, 
took  their  leave,  and  we  resumed  our  Jour- 
ney at  10  o'clock.  We  ascended  by  a  steep 
hill  from  the  river  bottom,  which  is  sanclf. 


f 


I  wjaw. 


(1843. 

r>  far  on  our  road,  ami  re- 
irin((  the  night.  Two  bad- 
ho  were  detected  in  steal- 
laid  before  the  fire,  and 
er  them  dating  the  night, 
Id,  and  partially  clear. 
-Th    morning  was  cloudy 
t  a  few  stars  visible.  Diir- 
er  froze  in  the  tents,  and 
mometer  was  at  30O.  liefk 
k,  the  road  leading  along 
Tinanens,  and  being,  so 
We  turned  to  the  right  at 
ail,  ascending  by  a  sleep 
ur  to  the  dividing  grounds 
m  and  the  waters  of  Fall 
ks  we  had   passed  were 
lly  with  oak  and  other  de- 
$now  lies  everywhere  here 
d  we  had  a  slight  fall  dur- 
but  towards  noon  the  gray 
iright  sun.     This  morning 
view  of  St.  Helens  and 
ter  appeared  of  a  conical 
fly,  leading  the  eye  far  up 
The  line  of  the    timbered 
istinctly  marked  here,  the 
with  it  a  remarkable  con- 
lit  of  the  ridge  cimmanded 
he  Taih   prairie,  and   the 
lirough  it,  which  is  a  tribu- 
rivcr,  the  chasm  of  whicb 
right.     A  steep  descent  of 
brought  us  down  into  the 
incamped  on  the  stream  af- 
by  the  light  of  fires,  u  hich 
ans  belonging  to  a  village 
ide  were  kindling  for  us  on 
i  is  a  large  branch  of  the 
ere  was  a  broad  band  of 
ifteen  feet  wide  on  either 
iver   current  is  swift  and 
t  was  cold  and  clear,  and 
ronomical  observation  this 
thermometer  at  20°. 
I  of  coming  hardship,  and 
les,  there  was  much  walk- 
;  and  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and 
e  day's  journey  on   toot, 
the  mouth  of  this  stream 
i  which  the  river  takes  its 

—A  fine  view  of  Mount 
ig ;  a  rose-colored  mass  of 
850  W.  by  compass.  The 
the  air  cold ;  the  thermom- 
ero;  the  trees  and  bushes 
and  the  rapid  stream  filled 

t  White  Crane,  two  Indian 
accompanied  us  thus  far, 
and  we  resumed  our  jour- 
.  We  ascended  by  a  steep 
)r  bottom,  which  is  sandljr. 


I84S.J 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


im 


to  a  Tolcanio  plain,  around  which  1of\y  hills 
iweep  in  a  regular  form.  It  ia  cut  up  by 
^llies  of  basaltic  rock,  escarpments  of 
which  appear  everywhere  in  the  hills. 
This  plain  is  called  the  'I'aih  prairie,  and  is 
iprinkled  with  some  scuiti'red  pinett.  The 
country  is  now  far  more  interesting  to  a 
traveller  than  tho  route  along  the  Snake 
and  Columbia  rivers.  To  our  right  we  had 
always  the  mountains,  from  the  midst  of 
whoso  dark  pine  forests  the  isolated  snowy 
peaks  were  looking  out  like  giants.  They 
/erved  us  for  grand  beacons  to  show  the 
rote  at  which  wo  advanced  in  our  journey. 
Mount  Hood  was  already  becoming  an  old 
acquaintance,  .>i)d,  when  we  ascended  the 
prairie,  we  obtained  a  bearing  to  Mount  Jef- 
ferson, S.  23°  W.  The  Indian  superstition 
has  peopled  these  lofty  peaks  with  evil  spir- 
its, and  they  have  never  yet  known  the 
tread  of  a  human  foot.  Sternly  drawn 
against  the  sky,  they  look  so  high  and  steep, 
80  snowy  and  rocky,  that  it  would  appear 
almost  impossible  to  climb  them  ;  but  still  a 
trial  would  have  its  attractions  for  the  ad- 
venturous traveller.  A  small  trail  takes  off 
through  the  prairie,  towards  a  low  point  in 
the  range,  and  perhaps  there  is  here  a  pass 
into  the  Walahmette  valley.  Crossing  the 
plain,  wo  descended  by  a  rocky  hill  into  the 
bed  of  a  tributary  of  Fall  river,  and  made 
an  early  encampment.  Tho  water  was  in 
holes,  and  frozen  over,  and  we  were  obliged 
to  cut  through  the  ice  for  the  animals  to 
drink.  An  ox,  which  was  rather  trou- 
blesome to  drive,  was  killed  here  for 
food. 

The  evening  was  fine,  the  sky  being  very 
clear,  and  I  obtained  an  immersion  of  the 
third  satellite,  with  a  good  observation  of  an 
emersion  of  the  first ;  the  latter  of  which 
gives  for  the  longitude,  121o  03'  43"  ;  the 
latitude,  by  observation,  being  45°  OA'  45". 
The  night  was  cold — the  thermometer  dur- 
ing the  observations  standing  at  0°. 

November  28. — The  sky  was  clear  in  the 
morning,  but  suddenly  clouded  over,  and  at 
sunrise  began  to  snow,  with  the  thermome- 
ter at  18°. 

We  traversed  a  broken  high  country, 
partly  timbered  with  pine,  and  about  noon 
crossed  a  mountainous  ridge,  in  which,  from 
the  rock  occasionally  displayed,  the  forma- 
tion consists  of  compact  lava.  Frequent 
tracks  of  elk  were  visible  in  the  snow.  On 
our  richt,  in  the  afternoon,  a  high  plain, 
partially  covered  with  pine,  extended  about 
ten  miles,  to  the  foot  of  the  Cascade  moun- 
tains. 

At  evening  we  encamped  in  a  basin  nar- 
rowly surrounded  by  rocky  hills,  afler  a 
day*«  journey  of  21  miles.  The  surround- 
iag  rocks  are  either  volcanic  products,  or 
Uf    y  altered  by  volcanic  action,  consisting 


of   quartz    and     reddish-colored     nilioiooii 
niiissus, 

November  80. — We  emerged  fiom  tht 
basin,  by  a  narrow  pas.s,  upon  u  considoraUil 
branch  of  Fall  river,  running  to  tho  enA 
ward  through  a  narrow  valluy.  'I'lio  tniil, 
descending  this  stream,  brought  us  to  a  lo 
cality  of  hot  springs,  which  were  on  eithar 
bank.  Those  on  the  left,  which  wera 
foi'med  into  deep  handsome  basins,  would 
have  been  delightful  baths,  if  tliu  outer  air 
had  not  been  so  keep,  the  thermometer  in 
these  being  at  80^.  There  were  others,  on 
the  opposite  side,  at  the  foot  of  an  escarp- 
ment, in  which  the  t«^m^>era'.uro  of  the  water 
waE  134°.  These  waters,  deposited  around 
the  spring  a  brrcciated  mass  of  quartz  and 
feldspar,  much  of  it  of  a  reddish  color. 

We  crossed  the  streom  here,  and  ascend- 
ed again  to  a  high  plain,  from  an  elevated 
point  of  which  we  obtained  a  view  of  six 
of  the  great  peaks — Mount  Jefl^erson,  follow- 
ed to  the  southward  by  two  others  of  the 
same  class  ;  and  succeeding,  at  a  still  great- 
er distance  to  the  southward,  were  three 
other  lower  peaks,  clustering  together  in  a 
branch  ridge.  These,  like  the  groat  peaks, 
were  snowy  masses,  secondary  only  to 
them  ;  and,  from  the  best  examination  our 
time  permitted,  we  are  inclined  to  believe 
that  the  range  to  which  they  belong  is  a 
branch  from  the  great  chnm  which  here 
bears  to  the  westward.  The  trail  during 
the  remainder  of  the  day  followed  near  to 
the  large  stream  on  the  left,  which  was  con- 
tinuously walled  in  between  high  rocky 
banks.  We  halted  for  the  night  on  a  little 
by-stream. 

November  30. — Our  journey  to-day  was 
short.  Passing  over  a  high  plain,  on  which 
were  scattered  cedars,  with  frequent  beds 
of  volcanic  rock  in  fragments  interspersed 
among  the  grassy  grounds,  we  arrived  sud- 
denly on  the  verge  of  the  steep  and  rocky 
descent  to  the  valley  of  the  stream  we  had 
been  following,  and  which  here  ran  directly 
across  our  path,  emerging  from  the  moun- 
tains on  the  right.  You  will  remark  that 
the  country  is  abundantly  watered  with  large 
streams,  which  pour  down  from  the  neigh- 
boring range. 

These  streams  are  characterized  by  tha 
narrow  and  ohasm-like  valleys  in  which 
they  run,  generally  sunk  a  thousand  feet  be- 
low the  plain.  At  the  verge  of  this  plain, 
they  frequently  commence  in  vertical  preci- 
pices of  basaltic  rock,  and  which  leave  only 
casual  places  at  which  they  can  be  entered 
by  horses.  The  road  across  the  country, 
which  would  otherwise  be  very  good,  is 
rendered  impracticable  for  wagons  by  these 
streams.  1  hero  is  another  trail  among  tha 
mountains,  usually  followed  in  the  summer, 
which  the  snows  now  compelled  us  to  avoid  * 


n 


im^ 


lao 


CAPT.  FUEMONT'S  NARUA'riVK. 


[1841 


M 


l:M^ 


Cf 


¥ 


•nd  I  have  reason  to  bnliovo  that  tliia,  pass- 
ing rit'urur  iho  hvadii  of  thoso  sireainsi 
would  aH'oril  a  much  better  road. 

At  sucli  plaucH,  tho  |{uii  oarria{;o  was  uii- 
iimbcred,  and  separately  descended  by  hand. 
Continuing  a  fuw  miles  up  the  left  bank  of 
the  river,  we  encamped  early  in  an  open 
bottom  among  the  pines,  a  short  distance  be- 
low a  lodge  of  Indi.tns.  Here,  along  the 
river  tho  bluflfs  present  eBcarpmunts  seven 
or  eight  Imndrod  feet  in  height,  containing 
strata  of  a  very  fine  porcelain  clay,  overlaid, 
at  the  height  of  about  fivo  hundred  feet,  by 
a  massive  stratum  of  compact  basalt  one 
hundreil  feel  in  thickness,  which  ag:iiii  is 
•uoccoded  aliove  by  other  strata  of  vulcanio 
rooks.  Tho  clay  strata  are  variously  color- 
ed, some  of  them  very  nearly  as  white  as 
ohalb,  anii  very  fme  grained.  .Specimens 
brought  from  these  have  been  subjected  to 
microscopical  examination  by  Professor 
Bailey,  of  West  Point,  and  are  considered  by 
him  to  constitute  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
deposites  of  fluviatile  infusoria  on  record. 
While  they  abound  in  genera  and  species 
which  are  commoa  in  fresh  water,  but  which 
rarely  thrive  where  the  water  is  even  brack- 
ish, not  one  decidedly  marine  form  is  to  be 
found  among  them ;  and  their  fresh-water 
origin  is  therefore  beyond  a  doubt.  It  is 
equally  certain  that  they  lived  and  died  at 
the  situation  where  they  were  found,  as  they 
could  scarcely  have  been  transported  by 
running  waters  without  an  admixture  of 
•andy  particles ;  from  which,  however,  they 
are  remarkably  frt<).  Fossil  infusoria  of  a 
fresh-water  origin  hurl  been  previously  de- 
tected by  Mr.  Bailcv  in  specimens  brought 
by  Mr.  James  D.  l)ana  from  the  tertiary 
formation  of  Oregon.  M  ist  of  the  species 
in  those  specimens  diflier^d  so  much  from 
those  now  living  and  know  a,  that  he  was  led 
to  infer  that  they  might  belong  to  extinct 
species,  and  considered  thei  i  also  as  afford- 
ing proof  of  an  alternation,  in  the  formation 
from  which  they  were  obtuned,  of  fresh 
and  salt  water  deposites,  v  hich,  common 
enough  in  Europe,  had  not  hitherto  been 
noticed  in  the  United  State**.  Coming  evi- 
dently from  a  locality  entirely  different,  our 
specimens  show  very  few  specios  in  com- 
mon with  those  brought  by  Mr.  Dana,  but 
bear  a  much  closer  resemblance  to  those  in- 
habiting the  northeastern  States.  It  is  pos- 
sible that  they  are  from  a  more  recent  de- 
posite ;  but  the  presence  of  a  few  remark- 
able forms  which  are  common  to  the  two 
localities  renders  it  more  probable  that  there 
is  no  great  difference  in  their  age. 

I  obtained  here  a  good  observation  of  an 
emersion  of  the  second  satellite  ;  but  clouds, 
which  rapidly  overspread  the  sky,  prevented 
the  usual  number  of  observations.  Those 
^liich  we  succeeded  in  obtaining  are,  how- 


ever, good  ,  and  give  fur  the  l.-itiiude  of  th« 
place  44°  35'  U3",  and  for  tliu  lon^ituds 
from  the  satellite  Ul^  Hi  'iS", 

December  1. — A  short  tliHianuo  above  our 
encampment,  we  crossed  this  rivt^r,  whick 
was  thickly  lined  along  its  banks  with  ice 
I"  common  with  til  these  mountiiiii  streams 
the  water  was  very  clear,  and  the  current 
swilV.  It  was  not  ovcrywiiore  furdable, 
and  the  witer  was  throe  or  four  I'uetdoopat 
our  croksingi  and  perhaps  a  hundred  foel 
wide.  As  was  frequently  the  case  at  suok 
places,  one  of  the  mules  got  liis  pack,  con- 
sisting of  sugar,  thoroughly  wet.  and  turned 
into  molasses.  Une  of  the  guides  informed 
me  that  this  was  a  "  sulinon  water,"  and 
pointed  out  several  inf^eiilonsly-uontrived 
places  to  catch  the  fish  ;  among  the  pines  in 
the  bottom  I  saw  an  immense  one,  about 
twelve  foot  in  diameter.  A  steep  asceut 
from  tho  opposite  bunk  delayed  us  again ; 
and  as,  by  the  information  of  our  guides, 
grass  would  soon  become  very  scarce,  we 
encamped  on  tho  height  of  land,  in  u  marshy 
place  among  the  pines,  where  there  was  an 
abundance  of  grass.  We  foniiil  here  a  single 
Nea  Perce  family,  who  had  a  very  handsome 
horse  in  their  drove,  which  wu  endeavor- 
ed to  obtain  in  oxchango  for  a  good  cow ; 
but  the  man  "  ha^l  two  hearts,"  or,  rather, 
he  had  one  and  his  wife  ha>l  another  :  she 
wanted  the  cow,  but  ho  loved  tlio  horse  too 
much  to  part  with  it.  These  people  attach 
great  value  to  cattle,  with  which  they  are 
endeavoring  to  supply  themselves. 

December  9. — In  the  first  rays  of  the  sun, 
the  mountain  peaks  this  morning  presented 
a  beautiful  appearance,  the  snow  being  en- 
tirely covered  with  a  hue  of  rosy  gold.  We 
travelled  to-day  over  a  very  stony,  elevated 
plain,  about  which  wore  Bcatternd  nedar  and 
pine,  and  encamped  on  another  large  branch 
of  Fall  river.  VVe  were  gradually  ascend- 
ing to  a  more  elevated  region,  which  would 
have  been  indicated  by  the  rapidly-increas- 
ing quantities  of  snow  and  ice,  had  we  not 
known  it  by  other  means.  A  mule  which 
was  packed  with  our  cooking  utensils  wan- 
dered off  among  the  pines  unperceived,  and 
several  men  were  sent  back  to  search  for  it. 

December  3. — Leaving  Mr.  Fitzpatriok 
with  the  party,  I  went  ahead  with  the  how- 
itzer and  a  few  men,  in  order  to  gain  time, 
as  our  progress  with  the  gun  was  necessa- 
rily slower.  The  country  continued  the 
same — ^very  stony,  with  cedar  and  pine ; 
and  we  roide  on  until  dark,  when  we  en- 
camped on  a  hillside  covered  with  snow, 
which  we  used  to-night  for  watei^,  as  we 
wore  unable  to  reach  any  stream. 

December  4. — Our  animals  had  taken  Uu 
back  track,  although  a  great  number  w«is 
hobbled  ;  and  we  were  consequently  delayed 
until  noon.    Shortly  after  we  had  left  tbii 


if: 


\  ^0^      ^    i 


[184& 

ive  fur  thu  latitude  of  tlit 
anil   foi   tliu  lon^itudt 

1^1^  10  as", 

•liort  (liHifiiiun  abuve  out 

croaitcd  llii:i  rivt^r,  wliick 

ulunf;  its  banks  with  ioe 

II  these  iiiouiiiiiiii  streams 

ry  cluar,  ami  thu  current 

lot  cverywliore    fordable, 

lliroo  or  four  I'Detdoopat 

I  purhiips  a  hundred  foel 

oquontly  tlin  c:iso  at  suck 

iiiiiles  K'*t  l>ia  I'ack,  con- 

huri>u(;l)ly  wut.  und  turned 

)nu  <>r  thu  f;uidt'H  infurmed 

a  ''Huliiion  water,"  and 

lul    inftonioiisly-oontrived 

lu  fish  ;  uiiionjr  tlio  |iiiioBin 

w  an  iminensu  one,  about 

iamclcr.     A  steep  ascent 

I  bunk  delayed  us  again; 

nformatioii  of  our  guides, 

1  bocome  very  scarce,  we 

heif^ht  of  land,  iii  a  marshy 

pinos,  wlieru  there  was  an 

18.     We  found  here  a  single 

r,  who  had  a  very  handsome 

rove,  which  wo  endeavor* 

xchange  for  a  (jood  cow ; 

aii  two  hearts,"  or,  rather, 

us  wife  had  unollier  :  she 

but  he  loved  tlio  iiorse  loo 

h  it.     Tliet>o  pen]ilo  attach 

lattlc,  with  which  they  are 

upply  themselves. 

-In  the  first  rays  of  the  auD, 

tks  this  mnrniiig  presentfld 

trance,  the  snow  being  en- 

ilh  a  hue  of  rosy  gold.    We 

over  a  very  stony,  elevated 

h  were  scattered  nedar  and 

led  on  another  large  branch 

bVe  were  gradually  asoend- 

)vatod  region,  which  would 

ited  by  the  rapidly-increaa- 

snow  and  ice,  had  we  not 

er  means.     A  mule  which 

our  cooking  utensils  wan- 

the  pines  unperceived,  and 

)  sent  back  to  search  for  it. 

-Leaving  Mr.  Filzpatriok 

went  ahead  with  the  how- 

(len,  in  order  to  gain  time, 

vith  the  gun  was  necessa- 

he  country  continued  the 

ly,  with  cedar  and    pine; 

until  dark,  when  we  en- 

Iside  covered   with  snow, 

to-night  for  water',  as  we 

)ach  any  stream. 

Our  animals  had  taken  tho 

ugh  a  great  number  wen 

were  consequently  delayoJ 

rtly  after  we  had  left  tbii 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NAURATIVR. 


181 


encampment,  tlio  nioiinlain  trail  from  the 
Dalies  joined  tiiat  on  whicli  wo  were  travel- 
ling. Alter  paHHiti);  for  several  iiiile«  over 
an  artcmisia  phiin.tlio  trail  entered  a  beauti- 
ful pine  lorent,  tliroiigh  which  wu  travelled 
for  several  Iiouth  ;  and  about  i  o'clock  de- 
scended into  the  valley  of  another  lari;i< 
oranch,  on  liiu  Ixittoiii  of  wliifii  were  spaces 
of  open  pines,  with  occasional  iiioaduws  of 
good  gra.sM,  in  one  of  which  we  encamped. 
The  stream  is  very  Hwift  and  deep,  and  about 
40  fuot  wide,  aii(l  nearly  half  frozen  over. 
Among  the  timber  here,  are  larches  NO  feet 
high,  and  over  3  feet  in  diameter.  We  had 
to-night  the  rare  Mglit  of  a  lunar  raiiiliuw. 

December  5. — 'I'o-day  the  country  was  all 
pine  forest,  and  beautiful  weather  made  our 
journey  ileli{L{htful.  It  was  too  warm  at  noon 
for  winter  clothes  ;  and  the  snow,  which  lay 
everywhere  in  patches  through  the  forest. 
^as  melting  rapidly.  After  a  few  hours' 
ade.  wfl  camo  upon  a  fine  stream  in  the 
nidst  of  tiib  ioiCHt,  which  proved  to  bo  the 
principal  branch  of  Fall  river.  It  was  oc- 
casionally aoO  feet  wide — sometimes  nar- 
rowed to  50  feet ;  the  waters  very  clear, 
and  frei|iiently  deep.  Wo  ascended  along 
the  river,  which  sometimes  presetiit  d  sheets 
of  foaming  cascades  ;  its  banks  occasionally 
blackened  with  masses  of  scoriated  rock 
and  found  a  good  encampment  on  the  verge 
of  an  open  bottom,  which  had  been  an  old 
camping  ground  of  the  Cayuse  Indians.  A 
great  number  of  deer  horns  were  lying  about, 
indicating  game  in  the  neighborhood.  The 
timber  was  uniformly  largo  ;  some  of  the 
pines  measuring  33  feet  in  circumference  at 
the  ground,  and  13  to  13  feet  at  six  feet 
above. 

In  all  our  journeying,  we  had  never  tra-- 
ellcd  through  a  country  where  the  rivers 
were  so  abounding  in  falls ;  and  the  name 
of  this  stream  is  singularly  characteristic. 
At  every  place  where  we  come  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  river,  is  heard  the  roaring  of 
falls.  The  rock  along  the  banks  of  the 
stream,  and  the  ledge  over  which  it  falls,  is 
f  scoriated  basalt,  with  a  bright  metallic 
iiaoture.  The  stream  goes  over  in  one 
clear  pitch,  succeeded  by  a  foaming  cataract 
of  several  hundred  yards.  In  the  little  bot- 
tom above  the  falls,  a  small  stream  dis- 
charges into  an  entonnoir,  and  disappears 
below. 

We  had  made  an  early  encampment,  and 
in  the  course  of  the  evening  Mr.  Fitzpatrick 
joined  us  here  with  the  lost  mule.  Our 
lodge  poles  wore  nearly  vrorn  out,  and  we 
found  here  a  handsome  set,  leaning  against 
one  of  the  trees,  very  white,  and  cleanly 
scraped.  Had  the  owners  been  here,  we 
would  have  purchased  them ;  but  as  they 
were  not,  we  merely  left  the  old  ones  in 
their  place,  with  a  small  quantity  of  tobacco. 


Drccmhrr  fl, — The  nioriiiiig  was  fiosty 
and  clear.  We  rontiniiccl  up  the  slreninon 
undulating  forcHl  groiiiid,  o\er  uliicli  tbure 
was  soutlcred  much  falliinf  timber.  We 
met  here  a  village  of  Nez  I'erce  Indians, 
who  appeared  to  ho  coiniiig  down  from  tlio 
tiMUiiitaiim,  and  had  with  tiieiii  fiiin  bands  of 
liiirHes.  With  them  were  a  few  Snake  In- 
dians of  the  root-diguing  s|iceit)H.  From 
the  forest  wu  emerged  into  an  open  valley 
ten  or  twelve  miles  wide,  through  which  tho 
stream  was  flowing  tranquilly,  upwards  of 
two  hundred  feet  broail,  with  occasional  isl- 
ands, and  bordered  with  fine  broad  bottoms. 
Oossing  tho  river,  which  hero  insiie.s  from 
a  groat  mountain  ridgo  on  tho  right,  we  con- 
tinued up  the  southern  and  smaller  branch, 
over  a  level  country,  consisting  of  fine 
meadow  land,  alternating  with  pine  forests, 
and  encamped  on  it  early  in  tho  evening.  A 
warm  sunshine  made  tho  day  peasant, 

December  7. — To-day  we  had  good  trav- 
elling ground  ;  the  trail  leading  sometimes 
over  rather  sandy  soils  in  the  pine  forest, 
and  sometimes  over  meadow  land  along  the 
f>tream.  The  great  beauty  of  the  country 
in  ..ummer  constantly  suggested  itself  to  our 
imaginations ;  and  even  now  we  found  it 
beautiful,  as  wo  rode  along  these  meadows, 
from  half  a  mile  to  two  mileh  wide.  The 
rich  soil  and  excellent  water,  surrounded  by 
noble  forests,  m.i  ke  a  picture  that  would  de- 
light the  eye  of  a  farmer. 

I  observed  to-night  an  occultation  of  ^ 
Geminnrum  ;  which,  although  at  the  bright 
limb  of  the  moon,  appears  to  give  a  very 
good  result,  that  has  been  adopted  for  the 
longitude.  The  occultation,  observations 
of  satellites,  and  our  position  deduced  from 
daily  surveys  with  tho  compass,  agree  re- 
markably well  together,  and  mutually  sup- 
port and  strengthen  each  other.  The  lati- 
tude of  the  camp  is  43°  30'  36 " ;  and  longi- 
tude, deduced  from  the  occultation,  I31<3 
33'  60". 

December  8. — To-day  we  crossed  the  last 
branch  of  the  Fall  river,  issuing,  like  all  the 
others  we  had  crossed,  in  a  southwesterly 
direction  from  the  mountains.  Our  direc- 
tion was  a  little  east  of  south,  the  trail  lead- 
ing constantly  through  pine  forests.  Tho 
soil  was  generally  bare,  consisting,  in  great- 
er part,  of  a  yellowish  whito  pumice  stone, 
producing  varieties  of  magnificent  pines, 
but  not  a  blade  of  grass ;  and  to-night  our 
horses  were  obliged  to  do  without  food,  and 
use  enow  for  water.  These  pines  are  re- 
markable for  the  re  '  color  of  the  bolls ;  and 
among  them  occurs  a  species,  of  which  the 
Indians  had  informed  me  when  leaving  the 
Dalles.  The  unusual  size  of  the  cone  (10 
or  18  inches  long)  had  attracted  their  atten- 
tion ;  and  they  pointed  it  out  to  me  among 
the  curiosities  of  the  country.     They  an 


tf 


IM 


CAPT.  FHKMONT'S  NAIIUATIVK. 


llttiX 


^i 


4' 


i     1 


niuio  rcmarkalile  fur  Ihrir  lariru  diuinctcr 
than  iliRir  lu'i|{lit,  whinh  iMUully  uvcriinpii 
only  iilMiiit  V20  iVot.  The  leatieta  arc  «hort 
— only  iwd  or  thri-o  inches  \ana,  and  Ave  in 
a  ahciitli  ,   tho  liurk  of  a  red  cuTur. 

Jhcrmbtr  1). — 'I'hn  trail  load*  always 
throiiuli  Nplcndid  pino  furetta.  Ciosaing 
diviilmi;  Kioiinda  by  a  very  flno  road,  wo 
dcarundod  very  i^onliy  toward-*  tho  aonth. 
Tho  wiMUher  wna  plcufiint,  and  wo  halted 
late.  'I'lio  soil  wiia  very  inucli  liko  that  of 
yoMtordiiy  ;  and  mi  tho  aiiiluoo  af  a  hill, 
nour  our  onciiuiiiniuut,  were  diiiplaycd  hcda 
of  piiiiiico  Htono  ;  but  thu  soil  produced  no 
graaa,  and  again  the  auiuials  fared  badly. 

Jhrember  10. — Tho  country  began  to 
improve  ;  and  uliout  1 1  o'clock  we  reached 
a  spring  of  cold  water  on  the  edge  of  u 
savannah,  or  grassy  meadow,  which  our 
guides  infurnied  ua  was  an  arm  of  tho  Tla- 
math  lake ;  and  a  few  miles  further  we  en- 
tered upon  an  extensive  meadow,  or  lake 
of  grass,  surrounded  by  timbered  mountains. 
This  was  tho  Tlamath  lake.  It  was  a  pio- 
turesquo  and  beautiful  spot,  and  rendered 
more  attractive  to  us  by  the  abundant  and 
excellent  iirass,  which  onr  animals,  af\er 
travelling  through  pino  forests,  so  much 
needed  ;  but  the  broad  sheet  of  water  which 
constitutes  a  lake  was  not  to  bo  seen.  Over- 
lookmg  it,  immediately  west,  wore  several 
■nowy  knobs,  belonging  to  what  we  have 
considered  a  branch  of  tho  Cascade  range. 
A  low  point  covered  with  pines  made  out 
into  the  lake,  which  afTurded  us  a  good  place 
for  an  encampment,  and  fur  tho  security  of 
our  horses,  which  were  guarded  in  view  on 
the  open  meadow.  The  character  of  cou- 
rage and  hostility  attributed  to  the  Indians 
of  this  quarter  induced  mure  than  usual  pre- 
caution; and,  seeing  smokes  rising  from  the 
middle  of  tho  lake  (or  savannah)  and  along 
the  opposite  shores,  I  directed  the  howitzer 
to  be  nrod.  It  was  tho  first  time  our  guides 
had  seen  it  discharged  ;  and  tho  bursting  of 
the  shell  at  a  distance,  which  was  some- 
thing like  tho  second  fire  of  the  gun,  amazed 
and  bewildered  them  with  delight.  It  in- 
spired them  with  triumphant  feelings ;  but 
on  the  camps  at  a  distance  the  cITect  was 
different,  for  the  smokes  in  the  lake  and  on 
the  shores  immediately  disappeared. 

The  point  on  which  we  wore  encamped 
forms,  with  the  opposite  eastern  shore,  a 
narrow  neck,  connecting  the  body  of  the 
lake  with  a  deep  cove  or  Day  which  receives 
the  principal  affluent  stream,  and  over  the 
greater  part  of  which  the  water  (or  rather 
ice)  was  at  this  time  dispersed  in  shallow 
pools.  Among  the  grass,  and  scattered 
over  tho  prairie  lake,  appeared  to  be  similar 
marshes.  It  is  simply  a  shallow  basin, 
which,  for  a  short  period  at  tho  time  of 
melting  snows,  ia  covered  with  water  from 


tho  neighboring  inoiiiitains  ;  but  tliis  prob- 
iilily  Boon  runs  ofT,  mid  Ii'uvcb  for  the  re- 
niaiiidpr  of  thn  year  a  (;rfi>ii  Mavanuah, 
through  the  niidht  of  wliii'li  the  river  Tla. 
math,  which  flows  to  the  oi-pan,  winds  its 
way  to  tho  outlet  on  the  NiiiitliuiiMlern  aide, 

Iketmher  II. — No  Indiaim  iiiiide  their 
appearance,  and  I  dctoriniiii'd  to  pay  there 
a  visit.  Aucmdingly,  the  peoplu  were  gath- 
ered togetli<<r,  and  we  rode  out  towards  the 
village  in  tliu  middle  of  tliu  lake,  which  one 
of  our  guides  had  previously  visited.  It 
could  not  be  directly  approaciiL'il,  as  a  largo 
part  of  the  lake  appeared  a  iiiursh  ;  and 
there  were  shcnta  of  ice  niiKuir;  the  grass, 
on  which  our  horses  could  not  keep  their 
footing.  We  therefore  followed  the  guide 
for  \  considerable  distaiii'u  along  the  forest ; 
and  then  turned  ulF  towards  the  village, 
which  wo  soon  began  to  sec  wa»  a  few  large 
lulls,  on  the  tops  of  which  were  collected 
tho  Indians,  \vhen  we  had  arrived  within 
half  a  mile  of  the  village,  two  jiorsons  were 
seen  advancing  to  meet  us  ;  and,  to  please 
the  fancy  of  our  guides,  we  ranged  ourselves 
into  a  long  line,  riding  abreast,  while  they 
galloped  ahead  to  meet  the  strangero. 

We  wore  surprised,  on  riding  up,  tu  find 
one  of  them  a  woman,  having  never  before 
known  a  situaw  to  take  any  part  in  the  busi- 
ness of  war.  They  were  the  village  chief 
and  his  wife,  who,  in  excitement  and  alarm 
at  the  unusual  event  and  apfiearnnce,  had 
come  out  to  meet  ilmir  fate  t(i<retlier.  The 
chief  was  a  very  preposscs.iing  Indian,  with 
very  handsome  features,  and  a  singularly 
scit  and  agreeable  voice — so  remarkable  aa 
to  attract  general  notice. 

The  huts  were  grouped  together  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  which,  from  being  spread 
out  in  a  shallow  inaish  at  tho  upper  end  of 
the  lake,  was  collected  here  into  a  single 
stream.  They  were  largo  round  huts,  per- 
haps 80  feet  in  diameter,  with  rounded  topa, 
on  which  was  tho  door  by  which  they  de- 
scended into  tho  interior.  Within,  thej 
wore  supported  by  posts  and  beams. 

Almost  like  plants,  these  people  seem  to 
have  adapted  themselves  to  the  soil,  and  to 
he  growing  on  what  the  immediate  locality 
afforded.  Their  only  subsistence  at  this 
time  appeared  to  be  a  small  fish,  great  quan- 
tities of  which,  that  had  been  smoked  and 
dried,  were  suspended  on  strings  about  the 
lodge.  Heaps  of  straw  were  lying  around  ; 
and  their  residence  in  the  raidst  of  grass 
and  rushes  had  taught  them  a  peculiar  skill 
in  converting  this  material  to  useful  pur- 
poses. Their  shoes  were  made  of  straw 
or  grass,  which  seemed  well  adapted  for  a 
snowy  country  ;  and  the  women  wore  on 
their  head  a  closely  woven  basket,  which 
made  a  very  good  cap.  Among  other 
things,  were  parti-colored  mats  about  fou 


K. 


(IA43. 


iiKiiinlnini ;    hut  lliis  prob- 

IT,  mid  Iruvrs  for  ihfl  re- 

yr:ir    a   ^'recn    navannah, 

i  of  wliifli  ilm  rivL'r  'I'la- 

to  tlif>  oi-p^ii,  winds  it* 

on  tlic  KiiutlivvcNtorn  aide. 

No  IiidiiniH  niiido    their 

I  dctorinirii'd  to  pay  them 

^ly,  tliu  ppoplu  were  gath* 

I  wu  rodn  out  lowarda  the 

llu  of  tho  hikr,  which  ono 

ul  |)rnviouNly  vJNited.      It 

tly  aiiproaciii'd,  as  a  largu 

nppearpd   a   iii:irMh ;    and 

of  ice  niiioiirr  tlio  grass, 

r«c8  could  not  kt'op  their 

rcfore  f'olluwrd  tlio  guide 

<  diHtani'u  aloni;  the  tureat ; 

utr  towards    tlio    village, 

!gan  to  see  wa.s  a  few  large 

I  of  which  were  cujicoted 

ticn  we  had  arrived  within 

village,  two  jiorsiins  were 

I)  meet  us  ;   and,  to  please 

(uidcs,  wu  ranged  ourselves 

riding  abreast,  while  they 

I  meet  the  Ntrangero. 

rised,  on  riding  up,  tu  find 

Oman,  having  never  before 

)  take  any  iiart  in  the  busi' 

hey  were  the  village  chief 

>,  in  excitLMncnt  and  alam 

ivcnt  and  apfMsarance,  had 

;  tlinir  lato  together.     The 

prepossessing  Indian,  with 

features,  and  a  singularly 

le  voice — so  remarkable  aa 

I  notice. 

B  grouned  together  on  the 
,  which,  from  being  spread 
marsh  at  tho  upper  end  of 
illected  here  into  a  single 
tere  largo  round  huts,  per- 
iameter,  with  rounded  topa, 
e  door  by  which  they  de- 
3  interior.  Within,  they 
ly  posts  and  beams, 
lants,  these  people  seem  to 
mseives  to  the  soil,  and  to 
hat  the  immediate  locality 
only  subsistence  at  thii 
be  a  small  fish,  great  qiian- 
hat  had  been  smoked  and 
snded  on  strings  about  the 
r  straw  were  lying  around  ; 
[loe  in  the  midst  of  grass 
lught  them  a  peculiar  skill 
is  material  to  useful  pur- 
loes  wore  made  of  stravr 
eemed  well  adapted  for  s 
and  the  women  wore  on 
lely  woven  basket,  which 
ood  cap.  Among  other 
li-colored  mats  about  fou 


1813] 


r.M'T.  ntKMONT*  'NRnxnvR. 


193 


(vet  sipiaro,  whicli  wi>  purrlnned  to  lay  nn 
ihi-  Riiow  iiiiilor  our  lilunki^tH.  and  to  usu  lor 
lahlc  clotim. 

NiiiiiIhts  of  singular-looking  dogs,  re- 
Miiitiliiii;  wolves,  went  s.'Miig  on  the  tops 
iif  tli<!  hiiti  ;  and  III'  ihi!»e  wii  piiri'liii<«ed  a 
young  iiiii',  i«liich,  after  its  liirthplarr,  <«.ti« 
iianii'il  'I'laniath.  'I'hi.'  language  spokfii  by 
tlii'so  hull, ins  is  ditliTent  from  that  of  the 
.Sliosliiinoe  and  ('uliiiiiliia  rivnr  tribes  ;  and 
utherwisu  than  hy  n'lfin^  tlicy  raiiiKil  under- 
•tanil  each  other.  They  iiiuile  us  comjire- 
lieiid  that  tliry  were  at  war  with  the  peojile 
who  lived  to  the  siiiithward  and  to  tho  oast- 
ward  ;  liiit  I  could  obtain  friiiii  Ihcm  no 
certain  inforinatioii.  The  river  on  which 
they  live  niters  the  CaNcade  nioniilaiiis  on 
the  western  side  of  the  lake,  and  break* 
lhrou){h  iheni  by  a  passage  iiiipractieable  for 
travellers ;  but  over  the  mountains,  to  the 
northward,  are  paasea  which  proHont  no 
other  ohsL-kcIo  than  in  the  almost  impene- 
trable forests.  Unlike  any  Indians  we  had 
previously  seen,  tboso  wore  shells  in  their 
noses.  We  returned  to  our  camp,  after  re- 
maining here  an  hour  or  two,  accompanied 
liy  a  number  of  Indians. 

In  order  to  recruit  a  little  the  strength  of 
our  animals,  and  obtain  some  acquaintance 
with  the  locality,  we  remained  hero  fur  the 
remainder  of  the  day.  By  observation,  the 
latitude  of  the  camp  was  42'^  50'  91" ;  and 
the  diameter  of  the  lake,  or  meadow,  as  has 
been  intimated,  about  20  miles.  It  is  a  pic- 
turesque and  beautiful  spot ;  and,  under  the 
hand  of  cultivation,  might  become  a  little 
paradise.  Game  is  found  in  the  forest ; 
timbered  and  snowy  mountr.ins  skirt  it,  and 
fertility  characterizes  it.  Situated  near  tho 
heads  of  three  rivers,  and  on  the  line  of  in- 
land communication  with  California,  and 
near  lo  Indians  noted  for  treachery,  it  will 
naturally,  in  tho  progress  of  the  settlement 
of  Oregon,  boconie  a  point  for  military  oc- 
cupation and  settlement. 

From  Tlamath  lake,  tho  further  continua- 
tion of  our  voyage  assumed  a  character  of 
discovery  and  exploration,  which,  from  the 
Indians  liere,  we  could  obtain  no  informa- 
tion to  direct,  and  where  the  imaginary 
maps  of  the  country,  instead  of  assisting, 
exposed  us  to  suffering  and  defeat.  In  our 
journey  across  the  desert,  Mary's  laku,  and 
the  famous  Buenaventura  river,  were  two 
points  on  which  I  relied  to  recruit  the  ani- 
mals, and  repose  the  party.  Forminrr, 
agreeably  to  the  best  maps  in  my  possession, 
a  connected  water  line  from  the  Rocky 
mountains  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  I  felt  no 
other  anxiety  than  to  pass  safeiy  across  the 
intervening  desert  to  the  banks  of  the  Bue- 
naventura, where,  in  the  soAer  climate  of 
n  more  south  irn  latitude,  our  horses  might 
find  grass  to  sustain  them,  and  ourselves  be 


shiM'  red  from  the  rigors  of  winter  nn<l  from 
the  inhoMpitnbli)  des(*rt.  Tlif  puiiii's  who 
had  ciindiict«>ii  iin  tliiix  far  on  our  journey 
were  aliiiiit  til  ri'tiirii  ;  ami  I  niilcaviired  in 
vain  til  iiliiai"  oilicrn  In  Imil  us,  even  for 
u  few  day  H,  in  liiMlircctiuii  (oixt)  A'hich  we 
wislii'il  to  go.  The  cliit'f  to  wlimn  1  applied 
ullegeil  the  want  of  horses,  and  tlio  snow  on 
tho  niDiintaiiis  across  which  our  courss 
would  I'arry  us,  and  the  hIckiicNN  nf  liis  fam- 
ily, an  reasons  for  refusing  tu  go  with  us. 

Ikrrinhtr  I'J  — This  moining  the  camp 
was  thronged  with  Tlamath  Indians  from 
the  Houtheastirii  shore  of  the  lake  ;  but, 
knowing  tho  treacherous  disposition  which 
is  a  remarkable  characteristic  of  the  In- 
dians south  of  the  (Columbia,  the  camp  was 
kept  constantly  on  its  guard.  I  was  not 
unmindful  of  the  disasters  which  Kinith  and 
other  travellers  dad  met  with  in  this  <  oun- 
try,  and  thereforo  was  equally  vigilant  in 
guarding  ngains'  ireachery  and  violenc". 

According  to  the  best  inforinr'ion  I  had 
been  able  to  obtain  from  the  imlians,  in 
a  few  days'  travelling  wo  should  reach  ano- 
ther large  water,  robubly  a  lake,  which 
they  indicated  exu  lly  in  t''  course  v- 
were  about  to  pursue.  We  struek  our  te'  a 
at  10  o'clock,  and  crossed  tho  lake  ii  >' 
nearly  east  direction,  where  it  bus  tli>  jrit 
extension — the  breadth  of  the  arm  ./eing 
here  only  about  a  mile  and  '<  If.  There 
were  ponds  of  ice,  with  bi  jitil '  grass,  for 
the  greater  part  of  the  way  and  it  was  dif- 
ficult to  get  tho  pack  anttnuls  across,  which 
fell  frequently,  and  could  not  get  up  with 
their  loads,  unassisted.  The  morning  was 
very  unpleasant,  snow  falling  ot  intervals  in 
large  flakes,  and  the  sky  dark.  In  about 
two  hours  we  succeeded  in  getting  the  ani- 
mals over;  and,  at^er  travelling  another 
hour  along  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake,  we 
turned  up  into  a  cove  where  there  was 
a  sheltered  place  among  the  timber,  with 
good  grass,  and  encamped.  The  Indians, 
who  had  accompanied  ua  so  far,  returned  to 
their  village  on  the  southeastern  shore. 
Among  the  pinei  here,  I  noticed  some  five 
or  si"?  fe» '  -n  diameter. 

Decern/.'.-  d', — The  night  has  been  cold; 
the  peakb  u  ;;nd  the  lake  gleam  out  bright- 
ly in  the  morning  sun,  and  the  thermom- 
eter is  at  zero.  We  continued  up  the  hol- 
low formed  by  a  small  affluent  to  the  lake, 
and  immediately  entered  an  open  pine  forest 
or.  tho  mountain.  The  way  here  was  some- 
times obstructed  by  fallen  trees,  and  the 
snow  was  four  to  twelve  inches  deep.  Tho 
mules  at  tho  gun  pulled  heavily,  and  walk- 
ing was  a  littlo  laborious.  In  the  midst  of 
the  wood,  we  heard  the  sound  of  galloping 
horses,  and  were  agreeably  surprised  by  the 
unexpected  arrival  of  our  Tlamath  chief, 
with  several  Indians.     He  seemed  to  hav« 


it^- 


4   liiKnri 


'i\- 


124 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE 


[tS43 


ir?:' 


fir. 


m 


found  his  conduct  inhospitable  in  letting^  the 
stranircrs  depart  witiiout  a  guide  through 
the  snow,  and  had  come,  with  a  tew  others, 
to  pilot  us  a  day  or  two  on  tiie  way.  After 
travellinnr  in  an  easterly  direction  tlirough 
the  forest  for  about  four  hours,  we  reached 
a  considerable  stream,  with  a  border  uf  good 
grass ;  and  here,  by  the  advice  of  our  guides, 
we  encamped.  It  is  about  thirty  feet  wide, 
and  two  to  four  feet  deep ;  the  water  clear, 
with  some  current ;  and,  according  to  the 
information  of  our  Indians,  is  the  principal 
affluent  to  the  lake,  and  the  head  water  of 
the  TIamath  river. 

A  very  clear  sky  enabled  me  to  obtain 
here  to-night  good  observations,  including 
an  emersion  of  the  first  satellite  of  Jupiter, 
which  give  for  the  longitude  12 1'^  30'  48", 
and  for  the  latitude  43<3  51'  36".  This 
emersion  coincides  remarkably  well  with 
the  result  obtained  from  an  occultation  at 
the  encampment  of  December  7th  to  8th, 
1843 ;  from  which  place,  the  line  of  our 
survey  gives  an  casting  of  thirteen  miles. 
The  day's  journey  was  12  miles. 

December  14. — Our  road  was  over  a 
broad  mountain,  and  wo  rode  seven  hours  in 
a  thick  snow  storm,  always  through  pine 
forests,  when  we  came  down  upon  the  head 
waters  of  another  stream,  on  which  there 
was  grass.  The  snow  lay  deep  on  the 
ground,  and  only  the  high  swamp  grass  ap- 
peared above.  The  Indians  were  thinly 
clad,  and  I  had  remarked  during  the  day  that 
they  suffered  from  the  cold.  This  evening 
they  told  me  that  the  snow  was  getting  too 
deep  on  the  mountain,  and  I  could  not  in- 
duce them  to  go  any  farther.  The  stream 
we  had  struck  issued  from  the  mountain  in 
an  easterly  direction,  turning  to  the  south- 
ward a  short  distance  below ;  and,  drawing 
its  course  upon  the  ground,  they  made  us 
comprehend  that  it  pursued  its  way  for  a 
long  distance  in  that  direction,  uniting  with 
many  other  streams,  and  gradually  becom- 
ing a  great  river.  Without  the  subsequent 
information,  which  confirmed  the  opinion, 
we  became  immediately  satisfied  that  this 
water  formed  the  principal  stream  of  '>he 
Sacramento  river ;  and,  consequently,  .hat 
this  main  affluent  of  the  bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco had  its  source  within  the  limits  of  the 
United  States,  and  opposite  a  tributary  to 
the  Columbia,  and  near  the  head  of  the 
TIamath  river;  which  goes  to  the  ocean 
north  of  42°,  and  within  the  United  States. 

December  15. — ^A  present,  consisting  of 
useful  goods,  afTorded  much  satisfaction  to 
our  guides  ;  and,  showing  them  the  national 
fiag,  I  explained  that  it  was  a  symbol  of  our 
nation  ,  and  they  engaged  always  to  receive 
it  in  a  friendly  manner.  The  chief  pointed 
Mt  h  course,  by  fol'owing  which  we  would 
trrive  at  the  big  v  '.er,  where  no  m^re 


&i  nv  was  to  be  found.  Travelling  in  a  di» 
rectiou  N.  60°  E.  by  compass,  which  th« 
Indians  informed  mo  would  avoid  a  bad 
mountain  to  the  right,  we  crossed  the  Sa- 
cramento where  it  turned  to  the  southward, 
and  entered  a  grassy  level  plain — a  smaller 
Grand  Rond  ;  from  the  lower  end  of  which 
the  river  issued  into  an  inviting  country  of 
low  rolling  hills.  Crossing  a  hard-frozen 
swamp  on  the  farther  side  of  the  Rond,  we 
entered  again  the  pine  forest,  in  which  very 
deep  snow  made  our  travelling  slow  and  la- 
borious. We  were  slowly  but  gradually  as- 
cending a  mountain  ;  and,  after  a  hard  jour- 
ney of  seven  hours,  we  came  to  some  naked 
]daces  among  the  timber,  where  a  few  tufts 
of  grass  showed  above  the  snow,  on  the 
side  of  a  hollow ;  and  here  we  encamped. 
Our  cow,  which  every  day  got  poorer,  was 
killed  here,  but  the  neat  was  rather  tough. 
December  16. — We  travelled  this  morn- 
ing through  snow  aSout  th.'ee  feet  deep, 
whicn,  betng  crusted,  very  much  cut  the 
feet  of  our  animals.  The  mountain  still 
gradually  rose  ;  we  crossed  several  spring 
heads  covered  with  quaking  asp  ;  otherwise 
it  was  all  pine  forest.  The  air  was  dark 
with  falling  snow,  which  everywhere  weigh- 
ed down  the  trees.  The  depths  of  the  for- 
est were  profoundly  still ;  and  below,  we 
scarcely  felt  a  breath  of  the  wind  which 
whirled  the  snow  through  their  branches.  I 
found  that  it  required  some  exertion  of  con- 
stancy to  adhere  steadily  to  Oiie  course 
through  the  woods,  when  we  were  uncertain 
how  far  the  forest  ext<!nded,  or  what  lay 
beycnd ;  and,  on  account  of  our  animals,  it 
would  be  bad  to  spend  another  night  on  the 
mountain.  Towards  noon  the  forest  looked 
clear  ahead,  appearing  suddenly  to  termi- 
nate ;  and  beyond  a  certain  point  we  could 
see  no  trees.  Riding  rapidly  ahead  to  this 
spot,  we  found  ourselves  on  the  verge  of  a 
vertical  and  rocky  wall  of  the  mountain. 
At  our  feet — more  than  a  thousand  feet  be- 
low— we  looked  into  a  green  prairie  coun- 
try, in  which  a  beautiful  lake,  some  twenty 
miles  in  length,  was  spread  along  tho  foot 
of  the  mountains,  its  shores  bordered  with 
green  grass.  Just  then  the  sun  broke  out 
among  the  clouds,  and  illuminated  the  coun- 
try below,  while  around  us  the  storm  raged 
fiercely.  Not  a  particle  of  ice  was  to  bo 
se*n  on  the  lake,  or  snow  on  its  borders, 
and  ail  was  like  summer  or  spring.  The 
glow  of  the  sun  in  the  valley  below  bright- 
ened up  our  hearts  with  sudden  pleasure ; 
and  we  made  the  woods  ring  with  joyful 
shouts  to  those  behind ;  and  gradually,  as 
each  came  up,  he  stopped  to  enjoy  the  un- 
expected scene.  Shivering  on  snow  three 
feet  deep,  and  stiffening  in  a  cold  north 
wind,  we  exclaimed  at  once  that  the  naniet 
of  Summer  Lake  and  Winter  Ridge  shoulti 


E 


[IS'13 


ound.     Travelling  in  a  di- 
by  compatis,  whiuh  tha 
(1    mo  would  avnid  a  bad 
right,  we  crossed  the  Sa- 
lt turned  to  the  southward, 
issy  level  plain — a  smaller 
»in  the  lower  end  of  which 
into  an  inviting  country  of 
Crossing  a  hard-fiozen 
rther  side  of  the  Rond,  we 
B  pine  forest,  in  which  very 
our  travelling  slow  and  la- 
re  slowly  but  gradually  as- 
ain  ;  aii'l,  after  a  hard  jour- 
irs,  we  came  to  some  naked 
e  timber,  where  a  few  tufts 
above  the  snow,  on  the 
;  and  here  we  encamped, 
every  day  got  poorer,  was 
the  I  leat  was  rather  tough. 
— We  travelled  this  morn- 
ow  aSout  Ih.'ee  feet  deep, 
rusted,  very  much  cut  the 
mals.     The  mountain  still 
we  crossed  several  spring 
h'ith  quaking  asp  ;  otherwise 
forest.     The  air  was  dark 
IT,  which  everywhere  weigh- 
es.     The  depths  of  the  for- 
mdly  still :  and  below,  we 
breath  of  the  wind  which 
w  through  their  branches.    I 
[uired  some  exertion  of  con- 
ire   steadily  to  Oiie   course 
ads,  when  we  were  uncertain 
rest  ext>!nded,  or  what  lay 
n  account  of  our  animals,  it 
)  spend  another  night  on  the 
vards  noon  the  forest  looked 
)peaTing  suddenly  to  termi- 
md  a  certain  point  we  could 
Riding  rapidly  ahead  to  this 
ourselves  on  the  verge  of  a 
)cky  wall  of  the  mountain, 
lore  than  a  thousand  feet  be- 
1  into  a  green  prairie  coun- 
beautiful  lake,  some  twenty 
,  was  spread  along  the  foot 
IS,  ita  shores  bordered  with 
Tust  then  the  sun  broke  out 
ids,  and  illuminated  the  coun- 
c  around  us  the  storm  raged 
a  particle  of  ice  was  to  be 
ike,  or  snow  on  its  borders, 
:e  summer  or  spring.    The 
n  in  the  valley  below  bright- 
larts  with  sudden  pleasure; 
the  woods  ring  with  joyful 
e  behind ;  and  gradually,  aa 
he  stopped  to  enjoy  the  un- 
.     Shivering  on  snow  three 
stifTening  in  a  cold  north 
.imcd  at  once  that  the  naniet 
ke  and  Winter  Ridge  shoulii 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


I» 


be  applied  to  these  two  proximate  places  of 
such  eiidden  and  violent  contrast. 

Wo  were  now  immediately  on  the  verge 
of  the  forest  land,  in  which  we  had  been 
travelling  so  many  days  ;  and,  looking  for- 
ward to  the  east,  scarce  a  tree  was  to  be 
seen.  Viewed  from  our  elevation,  the  face 
of  the  country  exhibited  only  rocks  and 
grass,  and  presented  a  region  in  which  the 
artemisia  became  the  princip.al  wood,  fur- 
nishing to  its  scattered  inhabitants  fuel  for 
their  fires,  building  material  for  their  huts, 
and  shekel  for  the  small  game  whichjninis- 
ters  to  their  hunger  and  nakedness,  niuai- 
ly  marked  by  the  boundary  of  the  mountr.i,i 
wall,  and  immediately  below  us,  were  thj 
first  waters  ot  that  Great  Interior  Basin 
which  has  the  Wahsatch  and  Bear  river 
mountains  for  its  eastern,  and  the  Sierra 
Nevada  for  its  western  rim ;  and  the  edge 
of  which  we  had  entered  upwards  of  three 
months  before,  at  the  Great  Salt  lake. 

When  we  had  sufficiently  admired  the 
scene  below,  we  began  to  think  about  de- 
scending, which  here  was  impossible,  and 
we  turned  towards  the  north,  travelling  al- 
ways along  the  rocky  wall.  We  continued 
on  for  four  or  five  miles,  making  ineffectual 
attempts  at  several  places ;  and  at  length 
succeeded  in  getting  down  at  one  which  was 
extremely  difficult  of  descent.  Night  had 
closed  in  before  the  foremost  reached  the 
bottom,  and  it  was  dark  before  we  all  found 
ouraelves  together  in  the  valley.  There 
were  three  or  four  half  dead  dry  cedar  trees 
on  the  shore,  and  those  who  first  arrived 
kindled  bright  fires  to  light  on  the  others. 
Ohc  of  the  mules  rolled  over  and  over  two 
or  three  hundred  feet  into  a  ravine,  but  re- 
covered himself,  without  any  other  injury 
than  to  his  pack ;  and  the  howitzer  was  left 
midway  the  mountain  until  morning.  By 
obsorvation,  the  latitude  of  this  encampment 
is  Ai°  57'  33".  It  delayed  us  until  near 
noon  the  next  day  to  recover  ourselves  and 
put  every  thing  in  order ;  and  we  made  only 
a  short  camp  along  the  western  shore  of  the 
lake,  which,  in  the  summer  temperature  we 
enjoyed  to-day,  justified  the  name  we  had 
given  it.  Our  course  would  have  taken  us 
to  the  other  shore,  and  over  the  highlands 
beyond ;  but  I  distrusted  the  appearance  of 
the  country,  and  decided  to  follow  a  plainly 
beaten  Indian  trail  leading  along  this  side 
of  the  lake.  We  were  now  in  a  country 
where  the  scarcity  of  water  and  of  grass 
makes  travelling  dangerous,  and  great  cau- 
tion was  necessary. 

December  18. — We  continued  on  the  trail 
along  the  narrow  strip  of  land  between  the 
lake  and  the  high  rocky  wall,  from  which 
we  had  looked  down  two  days  before.  Al- 
most every  half  mile  we  crossed  a  little 
•pring,  or  stream  of  pure  cold  water ;  and 


the  grass  w  .is  certainly  as  fresh  anh  green 
as  in  the  early  spring.  From  the  white 
efllorescenco  along  the  shore  of  the  lake, 
we  were  enabled  to  judge  that  the  water 
was  impure,  like  that  of  lakes  we  subse- 
quently found :  but  the  mud  prevented  us 
from  approaching  it.  We  encamped  near 
the  eastern  point  of  the  lake,  where  there 
appeared  between  the  hills  a  brood  and  low 
connecting  hollow  with  the  country  beyond. 
From  a  rocky  hill  in  the  rear,  I  could  sec, 
marked  out  by  a  line  of  yellow  dried  grass, 
the  bed  of  a  stream,  which  probably  con- 
nected the  lake  with  other  waters  in  the 
spring. 

The  observed  latitude  of  this  encampment 
is  48°  42'  37". 

December  19. — After  two  hours'  ride  in 
an  easterly  direction,  through  a  low  country, 
the  high  ridge  with  pine  forest  still  to  our 
right,  and  a  rocky  and  bald  but  lower  one 
on  the  left,  we  reached  a  considerable  fresh- 
water stream,  which  issues  from  the  piny 
mouhtains.  So  far  as  we  had  been  able  to 
judge,  between  this  stream  and  the  lake  we 
had  crossed  dividing  grounds ;  and  there 
did  not  appear  to  be  any  connection,  as 
might  be  inferred  from  the  impure  condition 
of  the  lake  water. 

The  rapid  stream  of  pure  water,  roaring 
along  between  banks  overhung  with  aspens 
and  willows,  was  a  refreshing  and  unex- 
pected sight ;  and  we  followed  down  the 
course  of  the  stream,  which  brought  us  soon 
into  a  marsh,  or  dry  lake,  formed  by  th')  ex- 
panding waters  of  the  stream.  It  was  cov- 
ered with  high  reeds  and  rushes,  and  large 
patcheii  of  ground  had  been  turned  up  by  the 
squaws  in  digging  for  roots,  as  if  a  farmei 
had  been  preparing  the  land  for  grain.  ] 
could  not  succeed  in  finding  the  plant  for 
which  they  had  been  digging.  There  were 
frequent  trails,  and  fresh  tracks  of  Indians ; 
and,  from  the  abundant  signs  visible,  the 
black-tailed  hare  appears  to  be  numerous 
here.  It  was  evident  that,  in  other  seasons, 
this  place  was  a  sheet  of  water.  Crossing 
this  marsh  towards  the  eastern  hills,  and 
passing  over  a  bordering  plain  of  heavy 
sands,  covered  with  artemisia,  we  encamped 
before  sundown  on  the  creek,  which  here 
was  very  small,  having  lost  its  water  in  the 
marshy  grounds.  We  found  here  tolerably 
good  grass.  The  wind  to-night  was  high, 
and  we  had  no  longer  our  huge  pine  fires, 
but  were  driven  to  our  old  resource  of  small 
dried  willows  and  artemisia.  About  twelve 
miles  ahead,  the  valley  appears  to  be  closed 
in  by  a  high,  dark-looking  ridge. 

December  20. — Travelling  for  a  few  hours 
down  the  stream  tl*-'  norning,  we  turned  a 
point  of  the  hill  on  cur  left,  and  came  sud- 
denly in  sight  of  another  and  much  larger 
lake,  which,  along  its  eastern  shore,  ww 


!  i; 


.J»^' 


m 


5!^: 


1     'l-ji: 


ito 


CAPT.  KUEMONT'S  NARRATIVR. 


[1843. 


closely  bordered  by  the  hi^li  black  rirlge 
which  walled  it  in  by  a  precipitous  face  on 
this  side.  Tliroughoiit  this  region  the  fuco 
of  tho  country  is  characterized  by  these  pre- 
cipices of  black  volcanic  rock,  (generally 
enclosinfir  the  valleys  of  streams,  and  fre- 
quently terininatini;  tho  hills.  Often  in  the 
course  of  our  journey  wo  would  be  tempted 
to  continue  our  road  up  the  i^entle  ascent  of 
a  sloping  hill,  which,  at  the  summit,  would 
ternninate  abruptly  in  a  black  precipice. 
Spread  out  over  a  length  of  20  miles,  the 
lake,  when  we  first  came  in  view,  presented 
a  handsome  sheet  of  water ;  and  I  gave  to 
it  the  name  of  Lake  Abert,  in  honor  of  the 
chief  of  the  corps  to  which  I  belonged.  The 
fresh-water  stream  we  had  followed  emptied 
into  the  lake  by  a  little  fall ;  and  I  was 
doubtful  for  a  moment  whether  to  go  on,  or 
encamp  at  this  place.  The  miry  ground  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  lake  did  not  allow 
us  to  examine  the  water  conveniently,  and, 
being  now  on  the  borders  of  a  desert  coun- 
try, we  were  moving  cautiously.  It  Vas, 
however,  still  early  in  the  day,  and  I  con- 
tinued on,  trusting  either  that  the  water 
would  be  drinkable,  or  that  we  should  find 
some  little  spring  from  the  hill  side.  We 
were  following  an  Indian  trail  which  led 
along  the  steep  rocky  precipice ;  a  black 
ridge  along  the  western  shore  holding  out 
no  prospect  whatever.  The  white  efflores- 
cences which  lined  the  shore  like  a  bank  of 
snow,  and  the  disagreeable  odor  which  filled 
the  air  as  soon  as  we  came  near,  informed 
us  too  plainly  that  the  water  belonged  to  one 
of  those  fetid  salt  lakes  which  are  common 
in  this  region.  We  continued  until  late  in 
the  evening  to  work  along  the  rocky  shore, 
but,  as  often  afterwards,  the  dry  inhospita- 
ble rock  deceived  us ;  and,  halting  on  the 
lake,  we  kindled  up  fires  to  guide  those  who 
were  straggling  along  behind.  We  tried 
the  water,  but  it  was  impossible  to  drink  it, 
and  most  of  the  people  to-night  lay  down 
without  eating ;  but  some  of  us,  who  had 
always  a  great  reluctance  to  close  the  day 
without  supper,  dug  holes  along  'lie  shore, 
and  obtained  water,  which,  being  filtered, 
was  sufficiently  palatable  to  be  used,  but 
still  retained  much  of  its  nauseating  taste. 
There  was  very  little  grass  for  the  animals, 
th''  shore  being  lined  with  a  luxuriant 
growth  of  rhenopodiaceous  shrubs,  which 
burned  with  a  quick  bright  flarae,  and  made 
our  firewood. 

The  next  morning  we  had  scarcely  trav- 
elled two  hours  along^the  shore  when  we 
reached  a  place  where  the  mountains  made 
a  bay,  leaving  at  their  feet  a  low  bottom 
around  the  lake.  Here  we  found  numerons 
hiJiocks  covered  with  rushes,  in  the  midst 
ot  which  were  deep  holes,  or  springs,  of 
pure  water :  and  the  bottom  was  covered 


with  grass,  which,  although  of  a  salt  and 
unwholesome  quality,  and  mixed  with  saline 
etllorescences,  was  still  abimdant,  and  made 
a  pood  halting  place  to  recruit  our  animals; 
and  we  accordingly  encampHd  here  for  the 
remainder  of  the  day.  I  rode  ahead  several 
miles  to  ascertain  if  there  was  any  appear- 
ance of  a  watercourse  entering  the  lake ; 
hut  found  none,  the  hills  preserving  their 
dry  character,  and  the  shore  of  the  lake 
sprinkled  with  the  same  white  powdery  sub- 
stance, and  covered  with  the  same  shrubs. 
There  were  flocks  of  duoks  on  the  lake, 
and  frequent  tracks  of  Indians  along  the 
shore,  where  the  grass  had  been  recently 
burnt  by  their  fires. 

We  ascended  the  bordering  mountain,  in 
order  to  obtain  a  more  perfect  view  of  the 
lake  in  sketching  its  figure ;  hills  sweep  en- 
tirely around  its  basin,  from  which  the  wa- 
ters have  no  outlet. 

December  22. — To-day  we  left  this  for- 
bidding lake.  Impassable  rocky  ridges  bar- 
red our  progress  to  the  eastward,  and  I  ac- 
cordingly bore  off  towards  the  south,  over 
an  extensive  sage  plain.  At  a  considerable 
distance  ahead,  and  a  little  on  our  left,  was 
a  range  of  snowy  mountains,  and  the  country 
declined  gradually  towards  the  foot  of  a  high 
and  nearer  ridge  immediately  before  us. 
which  presented  the  feature  of  black  preci- 
pices, now  becoming  common  to  the  coun- 
try. On  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  snow  wus 
visible  ;  and  there  being  every  indication  ol 
a  stream  at  its  base,  we  rode  on  until  after 
dark,  but  were  unable  to  reach  it,  and  halted 
among  the  sage  bushes  on  the  open  plain, 
without  either  grass  or  water.  The  two 
Indiarubber  bags  had  been  filled  with  water 
in  the  morning,  which  afforded  sufficient  foi 
the  camp;  and  rain  in  the  night  formed 
pools,  which  relieved  the  thirst  of  the  ani- 
mals. Where  we  encamped  on  the  bleak 
sandy  plain,  the  Indians  had  made  huts  or 
circular  enclosures,  about  four  feet  high  and 
twelve  feet  broad,  ot  artemisia  bushes. 
Whether  those  had  been  forts  or  housed,  or 
what  they  had  been  doing  in  such  a  desert 
place,  we  could  not  ascertain 

December  S3. — Tho  weather  is  mild  ;  the 
thermometer  at  daylight  38°  ;  the  wind  hav- 
ing been  from  the  southward  for  several  days. 
The  country  has  a  very  forbidding  appear- 
ance, presenting  to  the  eye  nothing  but  sage 
and  barren  ridges.  We  rode  up  towards 
the  mountain,  along  the  foot  of  which  we 
found  a  lake,  which  we  could  not  approach 
on  account  of  the  mud  ;  and,  passing  around 
its  southern  end,  ascended  the  slope  at  the 
foot  ot'  the  ridge,  where  in  some  hollows  wc 
had  discovered  bushes  and  small  trees — in 
such  situations,  a  sure  sign  of  water.  We 
found  here  several  springs,  and  the  hill  side 
was  well  sprinkled  with  a  species  of  fitlth 


kX- 


it: 


0^ 


[1843. 

althnu<;li  of  a  naU  and 
ty,  and  mixed  with  saline 

still  abundant,  and  made 
le  to  recruit  ntir  animals: 
f  encamped  here  for  the 
ly.  I  rode  ahead  several 
if  there  was  any  appear- 
urse  entering'  the  lake ; 
)c  hills  preserving  theit 
1(1  the  shore  of  the  lake 
same  white  powdery  sub- 
d  with  the  same  shrubs. 

of  ducks  on  the  lake, 
ks  of  Indians  along  the 
grass  had  been  recently 
i. 

le  bordering  mountain,  in 
more  perfect  view  of  the 
its  figure ;  hills  sweep  en- 
asin,  from  which  the  wa- 
t. 

■To-day  we  left  this  for- 
passable  rocky  ridges  bar- 
0  the  eastward,  and  I  ac- 
'  towards  the  south,  over 
plain.  At  a  considerable 
\a  a  little  on  our  left,  was 
nountains,  and  the  country 
r  towards  the  foot  of  a  high 

immediately  before  us. 
he  feature  of  black  preci- 
ing  common  to  the  coun- 
mit  of  the  ridge,  snow  was 
B  being  every  indication  ol 
ise,  we  rode  on  until  after 
lable  to  reach  it,  and  halted 
lUshes  on  the  open  plain, 
rrass  or  water.  The  two 
had  been  tilled  with  water 
'hich  afforded  sufficient  foi 
rain  in  the  night  formed 
ived  the  thirst  of  the  ani- 
a  encamped  on  the  bleak 
Indians  had  made  huts  or 
3S,  about  four  feet  high  and 
ad,  ot  artemisia  bushes, 
ltd  been  forts  or  house«,  or 
sen  doing  in  such  a  desert 
lot  ascertain 

-The  weather  is  mild  ;  the 
aylight  38°  ;  the  wind  hav- 
southward  for  several  days, 
a  very  forbidding  appear- 
to  the  eye  nothing  but  sage 
BS.  We  rode  up  towards 
ong  the  foot  of  which  we 
ich  we  could  not  approach 
)  mud  ;  and,  passing  around 
ascended  the  slope  at  the 
where  in  some  hollows  wg 
lushes  and  small  trees — in 
I  sure  sign  of  water.  We 
al  springs,  and  the  hill  aide 
sd  with  a  species  of  ftttn- 


1S4S.1 


CAPT.  B'REMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


Mf 


CO — a  better  grass  than  we  had  found  for 
niany  days.  Our  elevated  position  gave  us 
rgood  view  over  the  country,  but  we  dis- 
covered nothing  very  encouraging.  South- 
ward, about  ton  miles  distai.t,  was  another 
imall  lake,  towards  which  a  broad  trail  led 
ilong  the  ridge  ;  and  this  appearing  to  af- 
ford the  most  practicable  route,  I  determined 
to  continue  our  journey  in  that  direction. 

December  24. — We  found  the  water  of 
(no  lake  tolerably  pure,  and  encamped  al  the 
farther  end.  There  were  some  good  grass 
ind  canes  along  the  shore,  and  the  vegeta- 
jon  at  this  place  consisted  principally  of 
:henopndiaceous  shrubs. 

December  25. — We  were  roused,  on 
Christmas  morning,  by  a  discharge  from  the 
small  arms  and  howitzer,  with  which  our 
people  salutiid  the  day;  and  the  name  of 
which  we  bestowed  on  the  lake.  It  was  the 
first  time,  perhaps,  in  this  remote  and  deso- 
late region,  in  which  it  had  been  so  com- 
memorated. Always,  on  days  of  religious 
or  national  commemoration,  our  voyageurs 
expect  some  unusual  allowance  ;  and,  hav- 
ing nothing  else,  I  gave  them  each  a  little 
brandy,  (which  was  carefully  guarded,  as 
one  of  the  most  useful  articles  a  traveller 
can  carry,)  with  some  cofTee  and  sugar, 
which  here,  where  every  eatable  was  a  lux- 
ury, was  sufRcient  tr  make  them  a  feast. 
The  day  was  sunny  and  warm ;  and,  re- 
suming our  journey,  we  crossed  some  slight 
dividing  grounds  into  a  similar  basin,  walled 
in  on  the  right  by  a  lofty  mountain  ridge. 
The  plainly  beaten  trail  still  continued,  and 
occasionally  we  passed  camping  grounds  of 
the  Indians,  which  indicated  to  me  that  we 
were  on  one  of  the  great  thoroughfares  of 
the  country.  In  the  afternoon  I  attempted 
to  travel  in  a  more  eastern  direction  ;  but, 
after  a  few  laborious  miles,  was  beaten 
back  into  the  basin  by  an  impassable  coun- 
try. There  were  fresh  Indian  tracks  about 
the  valley,  and  last  night  a  horse  was  stolen. 
We  encamped  on  the  valley  bottom,  where 
there  was  some  creamlike  water  in  ponds, 
colored  by  a  clay  soil  and  frozen  over. 
Chenopodiaceuus  shrubs  constituted  the 
growth,  and  made  again  our  firewood.  The 
animals  were  driven  to  the  hill,  where  there 
was  tolerably  good  grass. 

December  26. — Our  general  course  was 
again  south.  The  country  consists  of 
larger  or  smaller  basins,  into  which  the 
mountain  waters  run  down,  forming  small 
lakes  ;  they  present  a  perfect  level,  from 
which  the  mountains  rise  immediately  and 
abruptly.  Between  the  successive  basins, 
the  dividing  grounds  are  usually  very  slight ; 
and  it  is  probable  that,  in  the  seisons  of 
high  water,  many  of  these  basins  are  in 
communication.  At  such  times  there  is 
evidently  an  abundance  of  water,  though 


now  wo  find  scarcely  more  than  the  dry 
beds.  On  either  side,  the  mountains, 
though  not  very  high,  appear  to  be  rocky 
and  sterile.  The  basin  in  which  we  were 
travelling  declined  towards  the  southwest 
corner,  where  the  mountains  indicated  a 
narrow  outlet ;  and,  turning  round  a  rocky 
point  or  cape,  we  continued  up  a  lateral 
branch  valley,  in  which  we  encamped  at 
night  on  a  rapid,  pretty  little  stream  of 
fresh  water,  which  we  found  unexpectedly 
among  the  sage  near  the  ridge,  on  the 
right  side  of  the  valley.  li  was  bordered 
with  grassy  bottoms  and  clumps  of  willows, 
the  water  partially  frozen.  This  stream 
belongr  to  the  basin  we  had  left.  Uy  a 
partial  olii  Tvation  to-night,  our  camp  was 
.*>"ind  to  uc  directly  on  the  4*2d  parallel. 
To-night  a  horse  belonging  to  Carson,  one 
of  tho  best  we  had  in  the  camp,  was  stolen 
by  the  Indians. 

December  27. — We  continued  up  the 
valley  of  the  stream,  the  principal  branch 
of  which  here  issues  from  a  bed  of  high 
mountains.  We  turned  up  a  branch  to  the 
left,  and  fell  into  an  Indian  trail,  which 
conducted  us  by  a  good  road  ovar  open 
bottoms  along  the  creek,  where  the  snow 
was  five  or  six  inches  deep.  Gradually 
ascending,  the  trail  led  through  a  good 
broad  pass  in  the  mountain,  where  we  found 
the  snow  about  one  foot  deep.  There  were 
some  remarkably  large  cedars  in  the  pass, 
which  were  covered  with  an  unusual  quan> 
tity  of  frost,  which  we  supposed  might  pos- 
sibly indicate  the  neighborhood  of  water  ; 
and  as,  in  the  arbitrary  position  of  Mary^s 
lake,  we  were  already  beginning  to  look 
for  it,  this  circumstance  contributed  to  our 
hope  of  finding  it  near.  Descending  from 
the  mountain,  we  reached  another  basin,  on 
the  flat  lake  bed  of  which  we  found  no 
water,  and  encamped  among  the  sage  on 
the  bordering  plain,  where  the  snow  was 
still  about  one  foot  deep.  Among  this  the 
grass  was  remarkably  green,  and  to-night 
the  animals  fared  tolerably  well. 

December  28. — The  snow  being  deep,  I 
had  determined,  if  any  more  horses  were 
stolen,  to  follow  the  tracks  of  the  Indiana 
into  the  mountains,  and  put  a  temporary 
check  to  their  sly  operations ;  but  it  did 
not  occur  again. 

Our  road  this  morning  lay  down  a  level 
valley,  bordered  by  steep  mountainous 
ridges,  rising  very  abruptly  from  the  plain. 
Artemisia  was  the  principal  plant,  mingled 
with  Fremontia  and  the  chenopodiaceuus 
shrubs.  The  artemisia  was  here  extremely 
large,  being  sometimes  a  foot  in  diameter 
and  eight  feet  high.  Riding  quietly  along 
over  the  snow,  we  came  suddenly  upon 
smokes  rising  among  these  bushes;  and, 
galloping  up,  we  found  two  huta,  open  Mi 


ij 
I' 


i: 


^y-- 


VI 


4  ii^- 


128 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1843 


im 


Mi 

:-  fi.-i';  ' 


^Im 


Ml 


i  ?»« 


the  top,  and  loosoly  built  of  sapo,  which 
appeared  to  have  been  deserted  at  the 
instant ;  and,  looking  hastily  around,  we 
saw  sfiveral  Indians  on  the  crest  of  the 
ridge  near  by,  und  several  othurs  seramb- 
liiig  up  the  ;(!c.  We  had  come  upon  them 
so  suddenly,  that  they  had  been  well-nigh 
surprised  in  their  lodges.  A  sage  fire  was 
burning  in  the  middle  ;  a  few  baskets  made 
of  straw  were  lying  about,  with  one  or  two 
rabbit  skins  and  there  was  a  little  grass 
scattered  ui.  ..jt,  on  which  they  had  been 
lying.  "  '""abi'-o — bo !"  they  shouted  from 
tiio  hills-  a  ;  d  which,  in  the  Snake 
language  wig  aea  white — and  remained 
looking  ai  us  from  behind  the  rocks.  Car- 
son and  Godey  rode  towards  tho  hiil,  but 
the  men  ran  oft'  like  deer.  They  had  bei  i 
so  much  pressed,  that  a  wum'-.n  with  two 
children  ha<l  dropped  'ehind  a  sago  bush 
near  the  \otlie,  and  when  Carson  accident- 
ally stumblet]  upon  her,  she  immediately 
began  screaming  in  the  extremity  of  fear, 
and  shut  her  eyes  fast,  to  avoiu  seeing 
him.  She  was  brought  back  to  the  lodge, 
and  we  endeavored  in  vain  to  open  a  com- 
munication with  tho  men.  By  dint  of 
presents,  and  friendly  demonstrations,  aho 
was  brought  to  calmness ;  and  we  found 
that  they  belonged  to  the  Snake  nation, 
speaking  tiie  language  of  that  people. 
Eight  or  ten  appeared  to  live  together, 
under  the  same  little  shelter ;  and  ihey 
seemed  to  have  iio  other  Bubsistonce  than 
the  roots  or  seeds  they  might  have  stored 
up,  and  the  hares  which  live  in  tho  sage, 
and  which  they  are  enabled  to  ti-ack  through 
the  snow,  and  are  very  skilful  in  killing. 
Their  skins  afford  them  a  littl'j  scanty  cov- 
ering. Herding  together  among  bushes, 
and  crouching  almost  naked  cvfr  a  little 
sage  fire,  using  their  instinct  only  to  pro- 
cure food,  these  may  be  considered,  among 
human  beings,  the  nearest  approach  to  the 
mere  animal  creation  We  have  reason  to 
believe  that  these  had  never  before  seen 
he  face  of  a  white  man. 

The  day  had  been  pleasant,  but  about 
two  o'clock  it  began  to  blow ;  and  crossing 
a  slight  dividing  ground  we  encamped  on 
the  sheltered  side  of  a  hill,  ^^here  there 
was  good  bunch  grass,  having  made  a 
day's  journey  of  24  miles.  The  night 
closed  in,  threatening  snow  ;  but  the  large 
sage  bushes  made  bright  fires. 

December  S9. — The  morning  mild,  and 
at  4  o'clock  it  commeneed  snowing.  We 
took  our  way  across  a  plain,  thickly  cover- 
ed with  snow,  towards  a  range  of  hills  in 
the  southeast.  The  sky  soon  became  so 
dark  with  snow,  that  little  could  be  seen  of 
the  surrounding  country;  and  we  reached 
the  summit  of  the  hills  in  a  iieavy  snow 
storm.    On  the  side  we  had  approached, 


this  had  appeared  to  be  only  a  rid^e  of  low 
hills ;  and  we  were  surprised  to  find  our- 
selves on  the  summit  of  a  bed  of  broken 
mountains,  which,  as  far  a;s  tho  weather 
would  permit  us  to  see,  declined  rapidly  to 
some  low  country  ahead,  preaonting  a 
dreary  and  savage  character ;  and  for  a 
moment  I  looked  around  in  doubt  on  the 
wild  and  inhospitable  prospect,  scarcely 
knowing  what  road  to  tako  which  might 
conduct  us  to  some  jdace  of  shelter  for  the 
night.  Noticing  among  thu  hills  the  head 
of  a  grassy  hollow,  I  determined  to  follow 
it,  in  the  iiope  that  it  would  conduct  us  to  a 
stream.  We  followed  a  winding  descent 
for  several  miles,  the  hollow  gradually- 
broadening  into  little  meadows,  and  be- 
coming the  bed  of  a  stream  as  we  ad- 
vanced ;  and  towards  night  wo  were  agree- 
ably surprised  by  the  appfiaranco  of  a  wil- 
low grove,  where  wo  found  a  sheltered 
camp,  with  watoi  and  excellent  and  abun. 
dant  grass.  The  grass,  which  was  covered 
by  the  snow  on  the  bottom,  was  long  and 
green,  and  the  face  of  the  mountain  liad  a 
more  favorable  character  in  its  vegetation, 
being  smoother,  and  covered  with  good 
bunch  grass.  The  snow  was  deep,  and  the 
night  very  cold.  A  broad  trail  had  entered 
the  valley  from  the  right,  and  a  short  dis- 
tance below  the  camp  were  the  tracks 
where  a  considerable  party  of  Jp.aians  had 
passed  on  horseback,  who  hr.d  turned  out 
to  ti>e  Itft,  apparently  wM.  the  view  of 
crossing  the  mouucains  to  the  eastward. 

Z)eccM4tr3i\- -After following  the  stream 
for  a  fe  V  hour.=}  in  a  southeasterly  direc- 
tion, it  en..ered  a  caiion  where  we  could  not 
foUow;  but  determined  not  to  leave  the 
stroara,  we  searched  a  passage  below,  where 
we  /^ould  regain  it,  and  entertd  a  regulai 
narro  v  valley.  Tlie  v/ater  had  now  more 
the  api'earanco  f.f  a  ilowing  creek ;  seveiaJ 
times  v.'3  passed  groves  of  'billows,  and  we 
began  to  fe."l  ourscives  out  of  all  difficulty. 
From  our  po.iition,  it  was  reasonable  to  con- 
clude that  thi.;  stream  would  find  its  outlet 
in  Mary's  lake,  and  conduct  us  into  a  better 
country.  We  had  descended  rapidly,  and 
here  we  found  very  little  snow.  On  both 
sides,  the  mountains  showed  often  stupen- 
dous and  curious-looking  rocks,  which  at 
several  places  eo  narrowed  the  valley,  that 
scarcely  a  pass  was  loft  for  tho  camp.  It 
was  a  singular  place  to  travel  through — shut 
up  in  the  earth,  a  son  of  chasm,  the  little 
strip  of  grass  undor  our  feet,  the  rough 
walls  of  bare  rock  on  either  hand,  and  the 
narrow  strip  of  sky  above.  The  grass  to- 
night was  abundant,  and  we  encamped  in 
high  spirits. 

December  31. — After  an  hour's  ride  this 
morning,  our  hopes  were  once  more  de- 
stroyed.   The  valley  opened  out,  and  before 


[1843 

to  be  only  a  ritlfje  of  low 
re  surprised  to  linil  our- 
:nmit  ol'  a  bed  of  broken 
18  far  as  the  wealher 
o  see,  deiiliiicd  rapidly  to 
ry  alieiul,  prcaoiiling  a 
re    character ;   and  for  a 

around  in  doubt  on  the 
table  prospect,  scarcely 
ud  to  tako  which  might 

e  place  of  shelter  fur  the 

among  thu  hills  the  head 
I  determined  to  follow 
.t  it  would  conduct  us  to  a 
lowed  a  winding  doscent 
!8,  the    hollow   gradually 

little  meadows,  and  be- 
of  a  stream  as  we  ad- 
irds  night  we  were  agree- 

the  appparanco  of  a  wil- 
e  wo    ibund   a  sheltered 

and  excellent  and  abun< 

grass,  wliich  was  covered 
the  bottom,  was  long  and 
ice  of  the  mountain  had  a 
iharactcr  in  its  vegetation, 

and  covered  with  good 
:ie  snow  was  deep,  and  the 

A  broad  trail  had  entered 
the  right,  and  a  short  dis- 
camp  were  the  tracks 
ruble  paity  of  Indians  hod 
back,  who  hr.d  turned  out 
arently  with  the  view  of 
lutains  to  the  eastward. 
-After  following  the  stream 
t  in  a  southeasterly  direc- 

carton  where  we  could  not 
ermined  not  to  leave  the 
hed  a  passage  below,  where 
I  it,  and  enterbd  a  regulai 
The  Virater  had  now  more 
,f  a  llowing  creek ;  several 
groves  of  '.villows,  and  we 
rsc'ves  out  of  all  difficulty. 
)n,  it  was  reasonable  to  con- 
tream  would  find  its  outlet 
md  conduct  us  into  a  better 
lad  descended  rapidly,  and 
very  little  snow.  On  both 
:ain3  showed  often  stnpen- 
is-lookin^  rocks,  which  at 
o  narrowed  the  valley,  that 
ivas  left  for  tho  camp.  It 
lace  to  travel  through — shut 
a  sun  of  chasm,  the  liule 
undiir  our  feet,  the  rough 
ick  on  cither  hand,  and  the 
sky  above.  The  grass  to- 
dant,  and  we  encamped  in 

— ^After  an  hour's  ride  this 
opes  were  onca  more  de- 
ailey  opened  out,  and  befora 


1844.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


IM 


U8  again  lay  one  of  the  dry  basins.  After 
some  search,  we  discovered  a  high-water 
outlet,  which  brought  us  in  a  few  miles,  and 
by  a  descent  of  several  hundred  feet,  into 
another  long  broad  basin,  in  which  wo  found 
the  bed  of  a  stream,  and  obtained  sufficient 
water  by  cuttinfT  the  ice.  The  grass  on  the 
bottoms  was  salt  and  unpalatable. 

Here  we  concluded  the  year  1843,  and 
our  new  year's  eve  was  rather  a  gloomy 
one.  The  result  of  our  journey  began  to  be 
very  uncertain  ;  the  country  was  singularly 
unfavorable  to  travel ;  the  grasses  being 
frequently  of  a  very  unwholesome  charac- 
ter, and  tho  hoofs  of  our  animals  were  so 
worn  and  cut  by  the  rocks,  that  many  of 
them  were  lame,  and  could  scarcely  be  got 
along. 

New  Year's  day,  1844, — We  continued 
down  the  valley,  between  a  dry-looking 
black  ridge  on  the  left  and  a  more  snowy 
and  high  one  on  the  right.  Our  road  was 
bad  along  tho  bottom,  being  broken  by  gul- 
lies and  impeded  by  sage,  and  sandy  on  the 
hills,  where  there  is  not  a  blade  of  grass, 
nor  does  any  appear  on  the  mountains.  The 
soil  in  many  places  consists  of  a  fine  pow- 
dery sand,  covered  with  a  saline  efRores- 
conce ;  and  the  general  nharactor  of  the 
country  is  desert.  During  the  day  we  di- 
rected our  course  towariis  a  black  cape,  at 
the  foot  of  which  a  column  of  smoke  indi- 
cated hot  springs. 

January  2. — We  were  on  the  road  early, 
and  the  face  of  the  country  hidden  by  fall- 
ing snow.  We  tra-elled  along  the  bed  of 
<he  stream,  in  some  places  dry,  in  others 
•jovered  with  ice  ;  the  travelling  being  very 
bad,  through  deep  fine  sand,  rendered  tena- 
cious by  a  mixture  of  clay.  The  weather 
cleared  up  a  little  at  noon,  and  we  reached 
the  hot  springs  of  which  we  had  seen  the 
vapor  the  day  before.  There  was  a  large 
field  of  the  usual  salt  grass  here,  peculiar  to 
such  places.  The  country  otherwise  is  a 
perfect  barrrn,  without  a  blade  of  grass,  the 
only  plan!"  being  some  dwarf  Fremontias. 
We  passod  :he  rocky  cape,  a  jagged  broken 
point,  bare  ind  torn.  The  rocks  are  vol- 
canic, and  the  hills  here  have  a  burnt  ap- 
pearance— i.indersand  coal  occasionally  ap- 
pearing as  at  a  blacksmith'8  forge.  We 
crossed  th'j  large  dry  bed  of  a  muddy  lake  in 
a  southeroterly  direction,  and  encamped  at 
night  without  water  and  without  grass, 
among  sage  bushes  co  red  with  snow. 
Tho  heavy  road  made  several  mules  give 
out  to-day ;  and  a  horse,  which  had  made 
the  joutr-'y  from  tie  States  successfuiiy 
thus  far,  was  left  on  the  trail. 

January  3. — A  fog,  so  dense  that  we  could 
not  see  a  hundred  yards,  covered  the  coun- 
try, and  the  men  thai  were  sent  out  after 
the  horaes  were  bewildered  and  iMi ;  and 
9 


we  were  consequently  detained  at  camp  un- 
til lute  in  the  day.  Our  situation  had  now 
become  *  serious  one.  We  had  reached 
and  run  over  the  posiuon  where,  accnrdina 
to  the  best  maps  in  my  possession,  we  should 
have  found  Mary's  lake  or  river.  W« 
were  evidently  on  the  verge  of  the  desert 
which  had  been  reported  to  us  ;  and  the  ap- 
pearance  of  the  country  was  so  forbidding, 
that  I  was  afraid  to  enter  it,  and  determined 
to  bear  away  to  the  southward,  keeping 
close  along  the  mountains,  in  tho  full  expec- 
tation of  reaching  the  Buenaventura  river. 
This  morning  I  put  every  man  in  the  camp 
on  foot — myself,  of  course,  among  the  rest 
— and  in  this  manner  lightened  by  distribu- 
tion the  loads  of  the  animals.  We  travelled 
seven  or  eight  miles  along  tho  ridge  border- 
ing the  valley,  and  encamped  where  there 
were  a  few  bunches  of  grass  on  the  bed  of 
a  hill  torrent,  without  water.  There  were 
some  large  artemisias;  but  tho  principal 
plants  are  chenopodiaccous  shrubs.  The 
rock  composing  the  mountains  is  here 
changed  suddenly  into  white  granite.  Tha 
fog  showed  the  tops  of  the  hills  at  sunset, 
and  stars  enough  for  observations  in  the 
early  evening,  and  then  closed  over  us  as  be- 
fore.   Latitude  by  observation,  40°  48'  IS". 

January  4. — The  fog  to-day  was  still 
more  dense,  and  the  people  again  were  be- 
wildered. We  travelled  a  few  miles  around 
the  western  point  of  the  ridge,  and  encamp- 
ed where  there  were  a  few  tufta  of  grsiss, 
but  no  water.  Our  animals  now  were  in  a 
very  alarming  state,  and  there  was  increas- 
ed anxiety  in  the  camp. 

January  5. — Same  dense  fog  continued, 
and  one  of  the  mules  died  in  camp  this 
morning,  I  have  had  occasion  to  remark, 
on  such  occasions  as  these,  that  aniniltlfe 
which  are  about  to  die  leave  the  band,  and, 
coming  into  the  camp,  lie  down  about  the 
fires.  We  moved  to  a  place  where  there 
was  a  little  better  grass,  about  two  miles 
distant.  Taplin,  one  of  our  best  men,  who 
had  gone  out  on  a  acouting  excursion,  as- 
cended a  mountain  near  by,  and  to  his  great 
surprise  emerged  into  a  region  of  bright 
sunshine,  in  which  the  upper  parts  of  the 
rnoantuin  were  glowing,  while  below  all  was 
obscured  in  the  darkest  fog. 

January  8. — ^I'he  fog  continubd  the  same, 
and,  with  Mr.  Preuss  and  Carson,  I  as- 
cended the  mountain,  to  sketch  the  leading 
features  of  the  country,  as  some  indication 
of  our  future  route,  while  Mr.  Fitzpatrick 
explored  the  country  below.  In  a  very 
short  distance  we  had  ascended  above  the 
mist,  but  the  view  obtained  was  not  very 
gratifying.  The  fog  had  partially  cleared 
off  from  below  whtn  we  reached  the  sum- 
mit ;  and  in  the  soathwest  corner  of  a  ba- 
sin communicating,  with  thaf.  in  which  w« 


i  il'^ 


£M 


\    m-"^. 


ISO 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


(1M4 


f'\,;. 


Ti 


!* 


had  encamped,  v/e  saw  a  lolYy  column  of 
■moke,  16  inilcK  distant,  indicating  the  pre- 
sence of  iiot  apiings.  There,  also,  appeared 
to  be  the  outlet  of  those  draining  channels 
of  the  country  ;  and,  as  such  places  afford- 
ed alrvays  more  or  less  grass,  I  determined 
to  steer  in  that  direction.  The  ridge  we 
had  ascended  appeared  to  be  composed  of 
a-agments  of  mWAe  granite.  We  saw  here 
traces  of  sheep  and  antelope. 

Entering  tli(.i  neighboring  valley,  and 
crossing  the  bed  of  another  lake,  after  a  hard 
day's  travel  over  ground  of  yielding  muil 
£,nd  sand,  we  reached  the  springs,  whe '<> 
no  found  an  atmndance  of  ^'rasa,  whict), 
though  only  tolerably  good,  made  ihis  place, 
with  reference  to  die  past,  a  refreshing  and 
agreeable  spot. 

This  is  the  most  exSraordinary  )>'Uality  of 
hot  springs  we  had  met  during  the  juurncy. 
The  basin  of  the  largest  one  has  a  circuui  - 
fcrcnce  of  several  hunt!: ed  feet;  but  Ihero 
is  at  one  extrenuty  a  circular  space  of  about 
fitYcen  i'l'M  in  diameter,  entirely  occupied 
by  the  boiling  water.  It  boils  up  at  irregu- 
jlai  intervals,  and  with  much  noise.  The 
wa'.^r  U  clear,  <^id  the  spring  deep ;  a  pole 
aboul  Aixteen  fobt  long  was  easily  immersed 
in  the  centre,  but  we  had  no  means  of  form- 
iT\j  .1  good  idea  of  the  depth.  It  was  sur- 
xouiided  oi<  the  margin  with  a  border  of 
green  gra&it,  and  near  the  shore  the  temper- 
ature of  the  water  was  306°.  We  had  no 
means  of  ascertaining  that  of  the  centre, 
where  the  heat  was  greatest ;  but,  by  dis- 
persing the  water  with  a  pole,  the  tempera- 
ture at  the  margin  was  increased  to  308o, 
and  in  the  centre  it  was  doubtless  higher. 
By  driving  the  pole  towards  the  bottom,  the 
water  was  made  to  boil  up  with  increased 
force  and  noise.  There  are  several  other 
interesting  places,  where  water  and  smoke 
or  gas  escape,  but  they  would  require  a 
iong  description.  The  water  is  impregna- 
ted with  common  salt,  but  not  so  much  as 
to  render  it  unfit  for  general  cooking ;  and 
a  mixture  of  snow  made  it  pleasant  to 
drink. 

In  the  immediate  neighborhood,  the  val- 
lev  bottom  is  covered  almost  exclusively 
with  chenopodiaceous  shrubs,  of  greater 
luxuriance,  and  larger  growrth,  than  we  have 
seen  them  in  any  preceding  part  of  the 
journey. 

I  obtained  this  evening  some  astronomi- 
cal observations. 

Our  situation  now  required  caution.  In- 
cluding those  which  gave  out  from  the  in- 
jured condition  of  their  feet,  and  those  sto- 
len by  Indians,  we  had  lost,  since  leaving 
the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  fifteen  animals ; 
and  of  tliese,  nine  had  been  loA  in  the  last 
few  days.  I  therefore  determined,  until 
w«  ahould  reach  a  country  of  water  and  ves- 


.){inngs,  and 
ii.r  a  night. 
v,'/;o  some 
v  ;  I  li,  after 
)  '. ')  ,r  again 
iibingers 


etation,  to  feel  our  way  ahead,  by  having 
the  line  of  route  explored  some  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles  in  advance,  and  only  to  leave 
a  present  encampment  when  the  succeeding 
one  was  known. 

Taking  with  me  Godey  and  Carson,  I 
made  to-day  a  thorough  exploration  of  the 
neighboring  valljys,  ntul  found  in  a  ravine 
in  the  hiivdering  inount.iins  a  "ood  camp' 
ing  piano,  whsrfi  was  vawi'  in 
a  sufficioi.t  ';atir.tity  of  grafw 
Overslrdovvi.iij  the  liprings 
trees  of'  ihe  awcet  j-otton-wooil 
along  i;i'.ervai  (.)  ab&o  ■,  o,  v\ 
with  pleasure,  regai'ding  them  : 
of  a  bett«  •  country.  To  us,  they  were  elo- 
quent of  g'i'een  prairies  and  butfalu.  We 
foiitiii  here  a  broad  and  plainly  marked  trail, 
on  which  there  were  tracks  of  horses,  and 
we  appeared  to  have  regcined  oi  'i  of  the 
thoroughfares  whicii  fut-'f  i>y  the  watering 
pliices  of  the  country.  On  the  western 
m'tnntnins  of  tho  v  "ey,  v  ith  which  this  of 
the  boiling  spring  ■.  a  imutiicates,  we  re- 
marked scattcved  ced^irs — prtibably  an  indi- 
cation thaf  W6  were  on  the  borders  of  the 
timbered  region  extending  to  the  Pacific. 
Wo  reached  the  camp  at  sunset,  after  a 
day's  ride  of  about  forty  mile!).  The  horses 
wc  rode  were  in  good  order,  being  of  some 
that  were  kept  for  emergencies,  and  rarely 
used. 

Mr.  Preuss  had  ascended  one  of  the 
mountains,  and  occupied  the  day  in  sketch- 
ing the  country ;  and  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  had 
found,  a  few  miles  distant,  a  hollow  of  ex- 
cellent grass  and  pure  water,  to  which  the 
animalit  were  driven,  as  I  remained  anothei 
day  to  give  them  an  opportunity  to  recruit 
their  strength.  Indians  appear  to  be  every- 
where prowling  about  like  wild  animals,  and 
there  in  a  fresh  trail  across  the  snow  in  the 
valley  near. 

Latitude  of  the  boiling  springs,  40°  30'  46". 

On  the  0th  we  crossed  over  to  the  cotton- 
wood  camp.  Among  the  shrubs  on  the  hills 
were  a  few  bushes  of  ephedra  occidentalu, 
which  afterwards  occurred  frequently  along 
our  road,  and,  as  usual,  the  lowlands  were 
occupied  with  artemisia.  While  the  par^ 
proceeded  to  this  place,  Carson  and  myself 
reconnoitred  the  road  in  advance,  and  toani 
another  good  encampment  for  the  following 
day. 

January  10. — ^We  continued  our  recon- 
noissance  ahead,  pursuing  a  south  direction 
in  the  basin  along  the  ridge  ;  the  camp  fol- 
lowing slowly  after.  On  a  large  trail  there 
is  never  any  doubt  of  finding  suitable  places 
for  encampments.  We  reached  the  end  of 
the  basin,  where  we  found,  in  a  hollow  of 
the  mountain  which  enclosed  it,  an  abun- 
dance of  good  bunch  grass.  Leaving  a  sig- 
p»l  for  tM  party  to  encamp,  we  contimurf 


[1M4 

r  way  ahead,  by  haying 
jxplored  some  fifteen  or 
Ivancc,  and  only  to  leare 
lent  when  the  succeeding 

le  Godey  and  Carson,  1 
rough  exploration  of  the 
s,  a,»iil  found  in  a  ravine 
noant;tin8  a  ffood  camp- 
;a9  V  aiBi'  in  ipiings,  and 
ly  of  grann  li''  a  night, 
he  Kprings  vfo  some 
j'otton-wooiKv  ill  •!;,  after 

also  .  e,  vv«  ■  r,f  again 
u'dingthcni  ;i!j  -<»ibingers 
r.  To  us,  they  were  elo- 
rairies  and  bulfalo.  We 
i  and  plainly  marked  trail, 
sre  tracks  of  horses,  and 
lave  rcgcined  oi.'3  of  the 
icli  pass  by  the  watering 
luntry.  On  the  western 
V  I'ey,  vith  which  this  of 
g  ■,„  :.mu!ui':ites,  we  re- 
ced'irs — probably  an  indi- 
!re  on  the  borders  of  the 
extending  to  the  Pacific. 

camp  at  sunset,  after  a 
it  forty  miles.  The  horsra 
good  order,  being  of  some 
ir  emergencies,  and  rarely 

ad   ascended  one   of   the 
jcupied  the  day  in  sketch- 
and  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  had 
es  distant,  a  hollow  of  ex- 
pure  water,  to  which  the 
?en,  as  I  remained  anothei 
an  opportunity  to  recruit 
Indians  appear  to  be  every- 
ibout  like  wild  animals,  and 
rail  across  the  snow  in  the 

boiling  springs,  40°  39'  46". 
crossed  oyer  to  the  cotton- 
nong  the  shrubs  on  the  hills 
es  of  ephedra  occidentalis, 
i  occurred  frequently  along 
i  usual,  the  lowlands  were 
rtemisia.  While  the  party 
J  place,  Carson  and  nwself 
road  in  adrance,  and  found 
campment  for  the  following 

-We  continued  our  recon- 
,  pursuing  a  south  direotioD 
ig  the  ridge  ;  the  camp  fol- 
\ei.  On  a  large  trail  there 
ibt  of  finding  suitable  places 
8.  We  reached  the  end  of 
5  we  found,  in  a  hollow  of 
rhich  enclosed  it,  an  abiln- 
inch  grass.  Leaving  a  wg- 
y  to  encamp,  we  continuM 


18441 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


Ifl 


OUT  way  up  the  hollow,  intending  to  see 
what  lay  beyond  the  mountain.  The  hol- 
low was  several  miles  long,  forming  a  good 
pass,  the  snow  deepening  to  about  a  foot  as 
we  neared  the  summit.  Beyond,  a  defile 
between  the  mountains  descended  rapidly 
about  two  thousand  feet ;  and,  filling  up  all 
the  lower  space,  was  a  sheet  of  green  wa- 
ter, some  twenty  miles  broad.  It  broke  up- 
on our  eyes  like  the  ocean.  The  neighbor- 
ing peaks  rose  high  above  us,  and  we  as- 
cended one  of  them  to  obtain  a  better  view. 
The  waves  were  curling  in  the  breeze,  and 
their  dark-green  color  showed  it  to  be  a 
body  of  deep  water.  For  a  long  time  we 
sat  enjoying  the  view,  for  we  had  become 
fatigued  with  mountains,  and  the  free  ex- 
panse of  moving  waves  was  very  grateful. 
It  was  set  like  a  gem  in  the  mountains, 
which,  from  our  position,  seemed  to  enclose 
it  almost  entirely.  At  the  western  end  it 
communicated  with  the  line  of  basins  we 
had  left  a  few  days  since  ;  and  on  the  op- 
^site  side  it  swept  a  ridge  of  snowy  moun- 
tains, the  foot  of  the  great  Sierra.  Its  po- 
sition at  first  inclined  us  to  believe  it  Mary's 
lake,  but  the  rugged  mountains  were  so  en- 
tirely discordant  with  descriptions  of  its  low 
rushy  shores  and  open  country,  that  we 
concluded  it  some  unknown  body  of  water ; 
which  it  afterwards  proved  to  be. 

On  our  road  down,  the  next  day,  we  saw 
herds  of  mountain  sheep,  and  encamped  on 
a  little  stream  at  the  mouth  of  the  defile, 
about  a  mile  from  the  margin  of  the  water, 
to  which  we  hurried  down  immediately. 
The  water  is  so  slightly  salt,  that,  at  first, 
we  thought  it  fresh,  and  would  be  pleasant 
to  drink  when  no  other  could  be  had.  The 
shore  was  rocky — a  handsome  beach,  which 
reminded  us  of  the  sea.  On  some  large 
granite  boulders  that  were  scattered  about 
the  shore,  I  remarked  a  coating  of  a  calca- 
reous substance,  in  some  places  a  few  inch- 
es and  in  others  a  foot  in  thickness.  Near 
our  camp,  the  hills,  which  were  of  primitive 
rock,  were  also  covered  with  this  substance, 
which  was  in  too  great  quantity  on  the 
mountains  along  the  shore  of  the  lake  to 
have  been  deposited  by  water,  and  has  the 
appearance  of  having  been  spread  over  the 
rocks  in  mass.* 

*  The  label  attached  to  a  specimen  of  this 
rock  was  lost ;  but  I  append  an  analysin  of  that 
which,  from  memory,  I  judge  to  be  the  speci- 
men: 
Carbonate  of  lime    ....      77  Jl 
Carbonate  of  magnesia    .        .        .        5.25 
Oxide  of  iron  ....  1,60 

Alumiua         .....        1.05 

Silica 8.55 

Oiiuie  matter,  water,  and  km  6.24 


100.00 


Where  we  had  halted,  appeared  to  be  a 
favorite  camping  place  for  Indians. 

January  13. — We  followed  again  a  broad 
Indian  trail  along  the  shore  of  the  lake  to 
.the  southward.  For  a  short  space  we  had 
room  enough  in  the  bottom  ;  but,  after  trav- 
elling a  short  distance,  the  water  swept  the 
foot  of  the  precipitous  mountains,  the  peaks 
of  which  are  about  3,000  feet  above  the 
lake.  The  trail  wound  along  the  base  of 
these  precipices,  against  which  the  water 
dashed  below,  by  a  way  nearly  impractica- 
ble for  the  howitzer.  During  a  greatpr  part 
of  the  morning  the  lake  was  nearly  hid  by  a 
snow  storm,  and  the  waves  broke  on  tlit 
narrow  beach  in  a  long  line  of  foaming  surf, 
five  or  six  feet  high.  The  day  was  un- 
pleasantly cold,  the  wind  driving  the  snow 
sharp  against  our  faces  ;  and,  having  ad- 
vanced only  about  12  miles,  we  encamped 
in  a  bottom  formed  by  a  ravine,  covered 
with  good  grass,  which  was  fresh  and  green. 

We  did  not  get  the  howitzer  into  camp, 
but  were  obliged  to  leave  it  on  the  rocks 
until  morning.  We  saw  several  flocks  of 
sheep,  but  did  not  succeed  in  killing  any. 
Ducks  were  riding  on  the  waves,  and  sev- 
eral large  fish  were  seen.  The  mountain 
sides  were  crusted  with  the  calcareous  ce- 
ment previously  mentioned.  There  were 
chenopodiaceous  and  other  shrubs  along  the 
beach  ;  and,  at  the  foot  of  the  rocks,  an 
abundance  of  hedra  occidentalis,  whose 
dark-green  r  ,or  makes  them  evergreens 
among  the  hrubby  growth  of  the  lake. 
Towards  evening  the  snow  began  to  fall 
heavily,  and  the  country  had  a  wintry  ap* 
pearance. 

The  next  morning  the  snow  was  rapidly 
melting  under  a  warm  sun.  Part  of  the 
morning  was  occupied  in  bringing  up  the 
gun  ;  and,  making  only  nine  miles,  we  en- 
camped on  thb  shore,  opposite  a  very  re* 
markable  rock  in  the  lake,  which  had  at- 
tracted our  attention  for  many  miles.  It 
rose,  according  to  our  estimate,  600  feet 
above  the  water ;  and,  from  the  point  we 
viewed  it,  presented  a  pretty  exact  outline 
of  the  great  pyramid  of  Cheops.  Like 
other  rocks  along  the  shore,  it  seemed  to 
be  incrusted  with  calcareous  cement.  This 
striking  feature  suggested  a  name  for  the 
lake  ;  and  I  called  it  Pyramid  lake  ;  and 
though  it  may  be  deemed  by  some  a  fanciful 
resemblance,  I  can  undertake  to  say  that 
the  future  traveller  will  find  much  more 
striking  resemblance  between  this  rock  and 
the  pyramids  of  Egypt,  than  there  is  be- 
tween them  and  the  object  from  which  they 
take  their  name. 

The  elevation  of  this  lake  above  the  sea 
ib  4,890  feet,  being  nearly  700  feet  highei 
than  the  Great  Salt  lake,  from  which  it  liee 
nearly  west,  and  distant  about  eight  d«gi«M 


IS9 


CAPT,  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[i    i4. 


of  lonpitiule.  The  position  and  elevation 
of  tliiH  lake  make  it  an  object  of  ((eographi- 
cal  intcr^^st.  It  is  the  nearest  lake  to  the 
western  rim,  as  the  Great  tSalt  lake  is  to 
the  castprn  rim,  of  the  Great  Basin  which 
lies  between  the  base  of  the  Uocky  moun- 
tains and  the  Sierra  Nevada ;  and  the  ex- 
lent  and  chai-acter  of  which,  its  whole  cir- 
cumference and  contents,  it  is  so  desirable 
to  know. 

The  last  of  the  cattle  which  had  been 
driven  from  the  Dalles  was  killed  here  for 
food,  and  was  still  in  good  condition. 

January  15. — A  few  poor-looking  Indians 
made  their  appearance  this  morning,  and 
we  succeeded  in  getting  one  into  the  camp. 
He  was  naked,  with  the  exception  of  a  tu- 
nic of  haro  skins.  He  told  us  that  there 
was  a  river  at  the  end  of  the  lake,  but  that 
he  lived  in  the  rooks  near  by.  From  the 
few  wards  our  people  could  understand,  he 
spoke  a  dialect  of  the  Snake  language  ;  but 
we  were  not  able  to  understand  enough  to 
know  whether  the  river  ran  in  or  out,  or 
what  was  its  course  ;  consequently,  there 
still  remained  a  chance  that  this  might  be 
Mary's  lake. 

Groves  of  large  cotton-wood,  which  we 
could  see  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  indica- 
ted that  it  was  a  stream  of  considerable 
size ;  and,  at  all  events,  we  had  the  pleasure 
to  know  that  now  we  were  in  a  country 
where  human  beings  could  live.  Accom- 
panied by  the  Indian,  we  resumed  our  road, 
passing  on  the  way  several  caves  in  the 
rock  where  there  were  baskets  and  seeds ; 
but  the  people  had  disappeared.  We  saw 
also  horse  tracks  along  the  shore. 

Early  in  the  afternoon,  when  we  were 
approaching  the  groves  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  three  or  four  Indians  met  us  on  the 
trail.  We  had  an  explanatory  conversation 
in  signs,  and  then  moved  on  together  to- 
wards the  village,  which  the  chief  said  was 
encamped  on  the  bottom. 

Reaching  the  groves,  we  found  tho  inlet 
of  a  large  fresh-water  stream,  and  all  at 
once  were  satisfied  that  -it  was  neither 
Mary's  river  nor  the  waters  of  the  Sacra- 
mento, but  that  we  had  discovered  a  large 
interior  lake,  which  the  Indians  informed 
us  had  no  outlet.  It  is  about  35  miles  long ; 
and,  by  the  mark  of  the  water  line  along  the 
shores,  the  spring  level  is  about  13  feet 
above  its  present  waters.  The  chief  com- 
menced speaking  in  a  loud  voice  as  we  ap- 
proached ;  and  parties  of  Indians  armed 
with  bows  and  arrows  issued  from  the 
thickets.  We  selected  a  strong  place  for 
our  encampment — a  grassy  bottom,  nearly 
enclosed  by  the  river,  and  furnished  with 
abundant  firewood.  The  village,  a  collec- 
tion of  straw  huts,  was  a  few  hundred  yards 
higher  up.     An  Indian  brought  in  a  large 


fish  to  trade,  which  we  had  the  inexpressil)le 
satisfaction  to  find  was  a  salnicn  trout;  we 
gathered  round  him  eagerly.  Tlie  Indians 
were  amused  with  our  delig'.it,  and  imme- 
diately brought  in  numberii;  so  that  the 
camp  was  soon  stocked.  Their  flavor  wait 
excellent — superior,  in  fact,  to  that  of  any 
fish  I  have  ever  known.  They  wertt  of 
extraordinary  size — about  as  laige  as  th« 
Columbia  river  salmon — generally  from  two 
to  four  feat  in  length.  From  the  informa- 
tion 01  Mr.  Walkbr,  who  passed  among 
some  lakes  lying  more  to  the  eastward,  this 
fish  is  common  to  the  streams  of  the  inland 
lakes.  He  subsequently  informed  mc  that 
he  had  obtained  them  M-ei(rhing  six  pounds 
when  cleaned  and  the  head  taken  off;  which 
corresponds  very  well  with  the  size  of  those 
obtained  at  this  place.  They  doubtless 
formed  tho  subsistence  of  these  people,  who 
hold  the  fishery  in  exclusive  possession. 

I  remarked  that  one  of  them  gave  a  fish 
to  the  Indian  we  had  first  seen,  which  he 
carried  off  to  his  family.  To  them  it  was 
probably  a  feast ;  being  of  the  Digger  tribe, 
and  having  no  share  in  the  fishery,  living 
generally  on  seeds  and  roots.  Although 
this  was  a  time  of  the  year  when  tho  fish 
have  not  yet  become  fat,  they  were  excel- 
lent, and  we  could  only  imagine  what  they 
are  at  the  pioper  season.  These  Indians 
were  very  fat,  and  appeared  to  live  an  easy 
and  happy  life.  They  crowded  into  the 
camp  more  than  was  consistent  with  our 
safety,  retaining  always  their  arms  ;  and,  as 
they  made  some  unsatisfactory  demonstra- 
tions, they  were  given  to  understand  that 
they  would  not  be  permitted  to  come  armed 
into  the  camp ;  and  strong  guards  were  kept 
with  the  horses.  Strict  vigilance  was  main- 
tained among  the  people,  and  one-third  at  a 
time  were  kept  on  guard  during  the  night 
There  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  these  dis- 
positions, uniformly  preserved,  conducted 
our  pa/fy  securely  through  Indians  famed 
for  treachery. 

In  the  mean  time,  such  a  salmon-trout 
feast  as  is  seldom  seen  was  going  on  in  our 
camp ;  and  every  variety  of  manner  in  which 
fish  could  be  prepared — boiled,  fried,  and 
roasted  in  the  ashes — was  put  into  requisi- 
tion; and  every  few  minutes  an  Indian 
would  be  seen  running  off  to  spear  a  fresh 
one.  Whether  these  Indians  had  seen 
whites  before,  we  could  not  be  certain ;  but 
they  were  evidently  in  communication  with 
others  who  had,  as  one  of  th^m  had  some 
brass  buttons,  and  we  noticed  several  other 
articles  of  civilized  manufacture.  We  cculd 
obtain  from  them  but  little  information  re- 
specting the  country.  They  made  on  the 
ground  a  drawing  of  the  river,  which  they 
represented  as  issuing  from  another  lake  in 
the  mouutains  three  or  four  days  distant,  io 


\mi. 


[i    l4. 

we  h»il  the  inexpresail>le 
wus  a  Bulmi<n  truiit ;  we 
II  eagerly.  The  Indians 
o\ir  delig'.it,  and  imme- 

numberi ;    so  that  the 
tcked.     Their  flavor  wbh 
r,  in  fact,  to  that  of  any 
known.      They  were  of 
— about  as  large  as  the 
mon — generally  from  two 
?th.     From  the  inforrna- 
kbr,  who   passed   among 
nore  to  the  eastward,  this 
the  streams  of  the  inland 
luently  informed  mo  that 
leni  weif^hing  six  pounds 
the  head  taken  off;  which 
ivell  with  the  size  of  those 
place.       They  doubtless 
tence  of  these  people,  who 
1  exclusive  possession, 
t  one  of  them  gave  a  fish 
had  first  seen,  which  he 
1  family.    To  them  it  was 
being  of  the  Digger  tribe, 
liare  in  the  fishery,  living 
ids  and   roots.     Although 
)f  the  year  when  the  fish 
some  fat,  they  were  excel- 
Id  only  imagine  what  they 
r  season.     These  Indians 
id  appeared  to  live  an  easy 

They  crowded  into  the 
1  was  consistent  with  oui 
always  their  arms  ;  and,  as 
I  unsatisfactory  demonstra- 
)  given  to  understand  that 
le  permitted  to  come  armed 
nd  strong  guards  were  kept 
Strict  vigilance  was  main- 
3  people,  and  one-third  at  a 
on  guard  during  the  night 
son  to  doubt  that  these  dis- 
rmly  preserved,  conducted 
ely  through  Indians  famed 

time,  such  a  salmon-trout 
iH  seen  was  going  on  in  our 
r  variety  of  manner  in  which 
repared — boiled,  fried,  and 
)hes — was  put  into  requisi- 
■y  few  minutes  an  Indian 
unning  off  to  spear  a  fresh 

these  Indians  had  seen 
re  could  not  be  certain ;  but 
intly  in  communication  with 

as  one  of  thorn  had  some 
nd  we  noticed  several  other 
Bed  manufacture.  We  could 
n  but  little  information  re- 
mntry.  They  made  on  the 
ng  of  the  river,  which  they 
ssuing  from  another  lake  in 
tiree  or  four  days  distant,  in 


1844.] 


CAPT.  FFlEMONrn  NARRAFIVK. 


133 


I  direction  a  little  west  of  south  ;  beyond 
which,  they  drew  a  mountain  ;  and  further 
(til!,  two  rivers  ;  on  one  of  which  they  told 
us  that  people  like  ourselves  travelled. 
Whether  they  alluded  to  the  settlements  on 
iho  iSacramento,  or  to  a  party  from  the 
United  States  which  had  crossed  the  Sierra 
ibout  three  degrees  to  the  southward,  a  few 
years  since,  I  am  unable  to  determine. 

I  tried  unsuccessfully  to  prevail  on  some 
of  them  to  guide  us  for  a  few  days  on  the 
road,  but  they  only  looked  at  each  other  and 
laughed. 

The  latitude  of  our  encampment,  which 
nay  be  considered  the  mouth  of  the  inlet, 
«  30°  61'  13"  liy  our  observations. 

January  16. — This  morning  we  continued 
our  journey  along  this  beautiful  stream, 
•rhich  we  naturally  called  the  Salmon  Trout 
river.  Large  trails  led  up  on  either  side  ; 
Ihe  stream  was  handsomely  timbered  with 
large  cotton^woods ;  and  the  waters  were 
very  clear  and  pure.  We  were  travelling 
along  the  mountains  of  the  great  Sierra, 
which  rose  on  our  right,  covered  with  snow  ; 
but  below  the  temperature  was  mild  and 
pleasant.  We  saw  a  number  of  dams  which 
the  Indians  had  constructed  to  catch  fish. 
After  having  made  about  18  miles,  we  en- 
jamped  under  some  large  cotton-woods  on 
the  river  bottom,  where  there  was  tolerably 
good  grass. 

January  17. — This  morning  we  left  the 
river,  which  here  issues  from  the  moun- 
tains on  the  west.  With  every  stream  I 
now  expected  to  see  the  great  Buenaven- 
tura ;  and  Carson  hurried  eagerly  to  search, 
on  every  one  we  reached,  for  beaver  cut- 
tings, which  he  always  maintained  we 
should  find  only  on  waters  that  ran  to 
the  Pacific ;  and  the  absence  of  such  signs 
was  to  him  a  sure  indication  that  the  water 
had  no  outlet  from  the  great  basin.  We 
followed  the  Indian  trail  through  a  tolera- 
bly level  country,  with  small  sage  bushes, 
which  brought  us,  ailer  20  miles  journey, 
to  another  large  stream,  timbered  with 
cotton-wood,  and  flowing  also  out  of  the 
mountains,  but  running  more  directly  to  the 
eastward. 

On  the  way  we  surprised  a  family  of 
Indians  in  the  hills ;  but  the  man  ran  up 
the  mountain  with  rapidity ;  and  the  woman 
was  so  terrified,  and  kept  up  such  a  con- 
tinued screaming,  that  we  could  do  noth- 
ing with  her,  and  were  obliged  to  let 
her  go. 

January  18. — There  were  Indian  lodges 
and  fish  dams  on  the  stream.  There  were 
no  beaver  cuttings  on  the  river ;  but  below, 
it  turned  round  to  the  right ;  and,  hoping 
that  it  would  prove  a  branch  of  the  Buena- 
ventura, yve  followed  it  down  for  about 
three  hours,  and  encamped. 


I  rode  out  with  Mr.  FitTpatrick  and  Car- 
son  to  reconnoitre  the  country,  «lii(;h  had 
evidently  been  alarmed  by  the  news  of  our 
appearance.  This  stream  joined  with  the 
open  valley  of  another  to  the  eastward  ;  hut 
which  way  the  main  water  ran,  it  wns  im- 
possible to  tell.  Columns  of  smoke  rose 
over  the  country  at  scattered  intervals 
signals  by  which  the  Indians  here,  as  else- 
where, communicate  to  each  other  that 
enemies  are  in  the  country.  It  is  n  signal 
of  ancient  and  very  universal  application 
among  barbarians. 

Examining  into  the  condition  of  the  ani- 
mals when  I  returned  into  the  cnmp,  I 
found  their  feet  so  much  cut  up  by  the 
rocks,  and  so  many  of  them  lame,  that  it 
was  evidently  impossible  that  they  could 
cross  the  country  to  the  Rocky  mountains. 
Every  piece  of  iron  that  could  bo  used  for 
the  purpose  had  been  converted  into  nails, 
and  we  could  make  no  further  use  of  the 
shoes  we  had  remaining.  I  therefore  de- 
termined to  abandon  my  eastern  course, 
and  to  cross  the  Sierra  Nevada  into  the 
valley  of  the  Sacramento,  wherever  a  prac- 
ticable pass  could  be  found.  My  decision 
was  heard  with  joy  by  the  people,  and  dif- 
fused new  life  throughout  the  camp. 

Latitude,  by  observation,  39o  84'  16". 

January  19. — A  great  number  of  smokes 
are  still  visible  this  morning,  attesting  at 
once  the  alarm  which  our  appearance  had 
spread  among  these  people,  and  their  igno- 
rance of  us.  If  they  knew  the  whites, 
they  would  understand  that  their  only 
object  in  coming  among  them  was  to  trade, 
which  required  peace  and  friendship ;  but 
they  have  nothing  to  trade — consequently, 
nothing  to  attract  the  white  man ;  hence 
their  fear  and  flight. 

At  daybreak  we  had  a  heavy  snow  ;  but 
sat  out,  and,  returning  up  the  stream,  went 
out  of  our  way  in  a  circuit  over  a  little 
mountain ;  and  encamped  on  the  same 
stream,  a  few  miles  above,  in  latitude  39° 
19'  91"  by  observation. 

January  20. — To-day  we  continued  up 
the  stream,  and  encamped  on  it  close  to  the 
mountains.  The  freshly  fallen  snow  was 
covered  with  the  tracks  of  Indians,  who 
had  descended  from  the  upper  waters,  prob- 
ably called  down  by  the  smokes  in  the 
plain. 

We  ascended  a  peak  of  the  range,  which 
commanded  a  view  of  this  stream  behind 
the  first  ridge,  where  it  was  winding  its 
course  through  a  somewhat  open  valley, 
and  I  sometimes  regret  that  I  did  not  make 
the  trial  to  cross  here  ;  but  while  we  had 
fair  weather  below,  the  mountains  were 
darkened  with  falling  snow,  and,  feeling  un- 
willing to  encounter  them,  we  turned  away 
again  to  the  southward.     In  that  direction 


I 


1' 


1S4 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1844 


^i 


we  travolleJ  the  next  day  ovor  a  tolerably  I 
level  country,  liaving  alwaVH  the  high 
C/ountaiiiv  on  the  weal.  There  waa  but] 
uttle  aiiow  or  rock  on  the  ground  ;  and, 
afier  having  travelled  84  mileH,  wo  en- 
camped again  on  another  large  atream, 
running  off'  to  the  northward  and  eastward, 
tn  mcci  that  we  IkuI  leA.  It  run  through 
broad  bottoms,  having  a  fine  meadow-land 
appearance. 

Latitude  30°  01   53". 

January  tJ8. — We  travelled  up  the  atream 
for  about  14  miles  to  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains, from  which  one  branch  issued  in  the 
southwest,  the  other  flowing  from  ISSE. 
along  their  base.  Leaving  the  camp  be- 
low, WH  ascended  the  rangu  through  which 
the  first  stream  passed,  in  a  oaiion;  on  the 
westorn  side  was  a  circular  valley,  about 
15  miles  long,  through  which  the  stream 
wound  Its  way,  issuing  from  a  gorge  in  the 
main  mountain,  which  rose  abruutly  beyond. 
The  valley  looked  yellow  with  taded  grass ; 
and  the  trail  we  had  followed  was  visible, 
making  towards  the  gorge,  and  this  was 
evidently  a  pass ;  but  again,  while  all  was 
bright  sunshine  on  the  ridge  and  on  the 
valTey  where  we  were,  the  snow  was 
falling  heavily  in  the  mountains.  I  de- 
termined to  go  still  to  the  southward,  and 
encamped  on  the  stream  near  the  forks ; 
the  animals  being  fatigued  and  the  grass 
tolerably  good. 

The  rock  of  the  ridgo  we  had  ascendi^d 
is  a  compact  lava,  assuming  a  granitic  ap- 
pearance and  structure,  and  containing,  in 
some  places,  small  nodules  of  obsidian.  So 
far  as  composition  and  aspect  are  concerned, 
the  rock  in  other  parts  of  the  ridge  appears 
to  be  granite  ;  but  it  is  probable  that  this  is 
only  a  compact  form  of  lava  of  recent  ori- 
gin. 

By  observation,  the  elevation  of  the  en- 
campment was  5,020  feet ;  and  the  latitude 
380  49'  64". 

January  33. — We  moved  along  the  course 
of  the  other  branch  towards  the  southeast, 
the  country  affording  a  fin  '  road  ;  and,  pass- 
ing some  slight  dividing  grounds,  descended 
towards  the  valley  of  another  stream.  There 
was  a  Aomewhat  rough-looking  mountain 
ahead,  which  it  appeared  to  issue  from,  or 
to  enter — we  could  not  toll  which ;  and  as 
the  course  of  the  valley  and  the  inclination 
of  the  ground  had  a  favorable  direction,  we 
were  sanguine  to  find  here  a  branch  of  the 
Buenaventura  ;  but  were  again  disappointed, 
findi.:g  it  an  inland  water,  on  which  we  en- 
camped after  a  day's  journey  of  24  miles. 
It  was  evident  that,  from  the  time  we  de- 
scended into  the  plain  at  Summer  lake,  we 
had  been  flanking  the  great  range  of  moun- 
tains which  divide^  the  Great  Basin  from 
the  waters  of  the  Pacific  ;  and  that  tlie  con- 


tinued succession,  and  almost  uonnection« 
of  lakes  and  rivers  which  we  encountered, 
were  the  drikinings  of  that  range.  Its  rains, 
springs,  and  snows,  would  Hufl\ciontly  ac- 
count for  these  lakes  and  streams,  numerous 
as  they  were. 

January  94. — A  man  was  discovered  run- 
ning towards  the  camp  as  we  were  about  to 
start  this  morning,  who  proved  to  be  an  In* 
dian  of  rather  advanced  age — a  sort  of  for- 
lorn hope,  who  seemed  to  have  been  worked 
up  into  the  resolution  of  visiting  the  stran- 

?er8  who  were  passing  through  the  country. 
le  seized  the  hand  of  the  first  man  he  met 
as  he  came  up,  out  of  breath,  and  held  on, 
as  if  to  assure  himself  of  protection.  Ho 
brought  with  him  in  a  little  skin  bag  a  few 
pounds  of  the  seeds  of  a  pine  tree,  which 
to-day  we  saw  for  the  first  time,  and  which 
Dr.  Torrey  has  described  as  a  new  species, 
under  the  name  of  pinui  monnphyllua ;  in 
popular  language,  it  might  be  called  the  nut 
pine.  We  purchased  them  all  from  him. 
The  nut  is  oily,  of  very  agreeable  flavor, 
and  must  be  very  nutritious,  as  it  constitutes 
the  principal  subsistence  of  the  tubes  among 
which  we  were  now  travelling.  By  a  pres- 
ent of  scarlet  cloth,  and  other  striking  arti- 
cles, we  prevailed  upon  this  man  to  be  our 
guide  of  two  days'  journey.  As  clearly  as 
possible  by  signs,  we  made  him  understand 
our  object ;  and  he  engaged  to  conduct  us 
in  sight  of  a  good  pass  which  he  knew. 
Here  we  ceased  to  hear  the  Shoshonee  lan- 
guage—that of  this  man  being  perfectly 
unintelligible.  Several  Indians,  who  had 
been  waiting  to  see  what  reception  he  would 
meet  with,  now  came  into  camp ;  and,  oo- 
companied  by  the  new-comers,  we  resumed 
our  journey. 

The  road  led  us  up  the  creek,  which  here 
becomes  a  rather  rapid  mountain  stream, 
fi(\y  feet  wide,  between  dark-looking  hills 
without  snow  ;  but  immediately  beyond  them 
rose  snowy  mountains  on  either  side,  tim- 
bered principally  with  the  nut  pine.  On  the 
lower  grounds,  the  general  height  of  this 
tree  is  twelve  to  twenty  feet,  and  eight 
inches  the  greatest  diameter ;  it  is  rather 
branching,  and  has  a  peculiar  and  singular 
but  pleasant  odor.  We  followed  the  river 
for  only  a  short  distance  along  a  rocky  trail, 
and  crossed  it  at  a  dam  which  the  Indians 
made  us  comprehend  had  been  built  to  catch 
salmen  trout.  The  snow  and  ice  were 
heaped  up  against  it  three  or  four  feet  deep 
entirely  across  the  stream. 

Leaving  here  the  stream,  which  runs 
through  impassable  caflons,  we  continued 
our  road  over  a  very  broken  countiy,  pass- 
ing through  a  low  gap  between  the  snowy 
mountains.  The  rock  which  occurs  imm»- 
diately  in  the  pass  has  the  appearance  of 
impure  sandstone,  containing  scales  of  black 


[1844 

and  almost  uonneotion« 

wliich  we  encountered, 

oftliut  ranKo.     Its  rains, 

8,  would  miinciontly  ao- 

:s  and  streams,  numeroui 

man  was  discorered  run- 
amp  as  we  were  about  to 
who  proved  to  be  an  Iiv 
need  oge — a  sort  of  for- 
med to  have  been  worked 
ion  of  visitinf;  the  stran- 
sitii{  througii  the  country. 
'  of  the  first  man  he  met 
of  breath,  and  held  on, 
nself  of  protection.     Ho 
in  a  little  skin  baj;  a  few 
(is  of  a  pino  tree,  which 
the  first  time,  and  which 
iscribed  as  a  new  species, 
if  pinua  moniiphyllua  ;  in 
it  might  be  called  the  nul 
ised  them  all  from  him. 
)(  very  agreeable  flavor, 
lutritious,  as  it  constitutes 
Btence  of  the  tubes  among 
w  travelling.     By  a  pres- 
h,  and  other  striking  arti- 
upun  this  man  to  be  our 
'  journey.     As  clearly  as 
we  made  him  understand 
le  engaged  to  conduct  us 
)d  pass  which  he  knew. 

0  hear  the  Shoshonee  lan- 
his  man  being  perfectly 
leveral  Indians,  who  had 
e  what  reception  he  would 
ame  into  camp  ;  and,  oc- 
new-comers,  we  resumed 

i  up  the  creek,  which  here 
r  rapid  mountain  stream, 
stween  dark-looking  hills 
t  imniediatelv  beyond  them 
tains  on  either  aide,  tim- 
with  the  nut  pine.  On  the 
te  general  height  of  this 

1  twenty  feet,  and  eight 
)8t  diameter;  it  is  rather 
LS  a  peculiar  and  singular 

We  followed  the  river 
stance  along  a  rocky  trail, 
a  dam  which  the  Indians 
ind  bad  been  built  to  catch 
rhe  snow  and  ice  were 
it  three  or  four  feet  deep 
3  stream. 

the  stream,  which  runs 
le  cafions,  we  continued 
ery  broken  countty,  pass- 
gap  between  the  snowy 
rock  which  occurs  imma- 
»  has  the  appearance  of 
containing  scales  of  black 


1844.] 


CAPT.  FUK.MON  rs  NAitU  VTIVE. 


IM 


niea.  This  may  he  only  a  straliflnd  Ium.  | 
On  issuing  from  the  gap,  the  compact  I 
and  other  voluaniu  products  usual  in  Uic  i 
country,  a|]ain  occurred.  We  descended 
from  tiie  gap  into  a  wide  valley,  or  rather 
basin,  and  onoamped  on  a  small  tributary  to 
the  last  stream,  on  which  there  was  verv 
good  grass.  It  vns  covered  with  such  thick 
loe,  that  it  required  some  labor  with  pick- 
axes to  make  holes  for  the  animals  to  drink. 
The  banks  are  lightly  wooded  with  willow, 
and  on  the  upper  bottoms  are  sage  and  Fre- 
montia  with  ephedra  occidentalit,  which  be- 
gins to  occur  more  frequently.  The  day 
bos  been  a  summer  one,  warm  and  pleasant ; 
no  snow  on  the  trail,  which,  as  we  are  all 
on  foot,  makes  travelling  more  agreeable. 
The  hunters  wi-iit  into  the  neighboring 
mountains,  but  found  no  game.  We  have 
five  Indians  in  camp  to-night. 

January  Hi. — The  morning  was  cold  and 
bright,  and  as  the  sun  rose  the  day  became 
bea'itiful.  A  party  of  twelve  Indians  came 
do\*  a  from  the  mountains  to  trade  pine  nuts, 
of  which  each  one  carried  a  httle  bag. 
These  seemed  now  to  be  the  staple  of  the 
country  ;  and  whenever  we  met  an  Indian, 
his  friendly  salutation  consisted  in  oiTcring 
a  few  nuts  to  eat  and  to  tradn  :  their  only 
arms  were  bows  and  flint-pointed  arrows. 
It  appeared  that  in  almost  ail  the  valleys  the 
neighboring  bands  were  at  war  with  each 
other ;  and  we  had  some  difficulty  in  pre- 
vailing on  our  guides  to  accompany  us  on 
this  day's  journey,  being  at  war  with  the 
people  on  the  other  side  of  a  luri;e  snowy 
mountain  which  lay  before  us. 

The  general  level  of  the  country  appear- 
ed to  be  getting  higher,  and  we  were  gradu- 
ally entering  the  heart  of  the  mountains. 
Accompanied  by  all  the  Indians,  we  ascend- 
ed a  long  ridge,  and  reached  a  pure  spring 
at  tlie  edge  of  the  timber,  where  the  In- 
dians had  waylaid  and  killed  an  antelope, 
and  where  the  greater  part  of  them  leil  us. 
Our  pacific  conduct  had  quieted  their  alarms ; 
and  though  at  war  among  each  other,  yet 
all  confided  in  us — thanks  to  the  combined 
effects  of  power  and  kindness — for  our  arms 
inspired  respect,  and  our  little  presents  and 
good  treatment  conciliated  their  confidence. 
Here  we  suddenly  entered  snow  six  inches 
deep,  and  the  ground  was  a  little  rocky  with 
volcanic  fragments,  the  mountain  appearing 
to  be  composed  of  such  rock.  The  timber 
consists  principally  of  nut  pines,  (pinus  mo- 
nophyllus,)  which  here  are  of  larger  size — 
13  to  15  inches  in  diameter ;  heaps  of  cones 
lying  on  the  ground,  where  the  Indians 
have  gathered  the  seeds. 

The  snow  deepened  gradually  as  we  ad- 
vanced. Our  guides  wore  out  their  mocca- 
sins ;  and,  putting  one  of  them  on  a  horse, 
we  enjoyed  the  unusual  si^ht  of  an  Indian 


who  could  not  ride.  Hu  (•oiiiil  not  ovee 
guide  the  animal,  and  n|>|)eaif(i  to  have  no 
knowledge  of  horses,  i'he  snow  was  three 
or  four  fuet  deep  in  the  numinit  of  the  pass ; 
and  from  this  point  the  guide  iioinleil  out 
our  future  road,  declining  to  go  uiiy  further. 
Helow  us  was  a  little  valley  ;  and  beyond 
this  the  mountains  rose  higher  still,  one 
ridge  above  another,  presenting  u  rude  and 
rocky  outline.  We  descended  rapidly  to 
the  valley  ;  the  snow  impeded  ub  but  little  , 
yet  it  was  dark  when  we  reached  the  foot 
of  the  mountain. 

Tho  day  had  been  so  warm,  that  our  moo- 
casins  were  wet  with  meltiii|,r  nxwsv ;  but 
hero,  as  soon  as  tho  sun  boginn  to  decline, 
the  air  gets  suddenly  cold,  and  wo  bad  great 
difficulty  to  keep  our  feet  from  freezing— 
our  moccasins  being  frozen  perfectly  stifT. 
Af\er  a  hard  day  s  march  of  37  miles,  we 
reached  the  river  some  time  after  dark,  and 
found  the  snow  about  a  foot  deep  «>ii  the 
bottom — the  river  lieiiig entirely  fiozcn  over. 
We  found  a  comfortable  camp,  where  theie 
were  dry  willows  abundant,  and  we  soon 
had  blazing  fires.  A  little  brandy,  which  I 
husbanded  with  great  care,  remained,  and  I 
do  not  know  any  medicine  more  salutary,  or 
any  drink  (except  coffee)  more  agreeable, 
than  this  in  a  cold  night  after  a  hard  day's 
march.  Mr.  Preuss  questioned  w  liether  the 
famed  nectar  even  possessed  so  exquisite  a 
flavor.     All  felt  it  to  be  a  reviving  cordial. 

The  next  morning,  when  the  sun  had  not 
yet  risen  over  the  mountains,  the  thermom- 
eter was  3°  below  zero ;  but  the  sky  was 
bright  and  pure,  and  the  weather  changed 
rapidly  into  a  pleasant  day  of  summer.  I 
remained  encamped,  in  order  to  examine  the 
country,  and  allow  the  animals  a  day  of  rest, 
the  grass  being  good  and  abundant  under 
the  snow. 

The  river  is  fifly  to  eighty  feet  wide, 
with  a  lively  current,  and  very  clear  water. 
It  forked  a  little  above  our  camp,  one  of  its 
branches  coming  directly  from  tho  south. 
At  its  head  appeared  to  be  a  handsome  pass ; 
and  from  the  neighboring  heights  we  could 
see,  beyond,  a  comparatively  low  and  open 
country,  which  was  supposed  to  form  the 
valley  of  the  Buenaventura.  The  other 
branch  issued  from  a  neiircr  pass,  in  a 
direction  S.  75°  W,,  forking  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountain,  and  re^seiving  part  of  its 
waters  from  a  little  lake.  I  was  in  advance 
of  the  camp  when  ctur  lact  guides  had  left 
us ;  but,  so  far  as  could  be  understood,  this 
was  the  pass  which  they  bad  indicated,  and, 
in  company  with  Carson,  to-day  I  set  out  to 
explore  it.  Entering  the  range,  we  con« 
tinned  in  a  northwesterly  direction  up  the 
valley,  which  here  bent  to  the  right.  It 
was  a  pretty,  open  bottom,  locked  between 
lofty  mountains,  which  supplied  frequent 


% 


l^^ti,' 


a 


4  1^ 


IM 


CAPT.  FUKMONTH  NARRA'   VE, 


[1844. 


1   (.:,!■ -,\ 


•Iretm*  ns  wo  advancail.  On  tho  luwer 
part  th«y  worn  covorod  wild  nut-pinn  trno*, 
uid  alxivfl  with  inasMii  of  pino,  which  wo 
euily  rucogniHfld,  from  thn  darker  color  of 
the  fulinuo.  From  the  frnah  trails  which 
oeoiirrod  fromiuntly  duriii({  tho  mornini;, 
dour  appeared  to  he  rcmarkahly  numerous 
in  the  mountain. 

We  hud  now  entirely  left  the  dciert 
country,  and  were  on  the  verge  of  a  region 
which,  extondini;  westward  to  the  shores  of 
the  I'aoirio,  ahounds  in  Jarf^o  game,  and  is 
covered  with  a  singulai  luxuriance  of  vege- 
table life. 

The  little  stream  grew  rapidly  smaller, 
and  in  about  twelve  miles  we  had  reached 
its  head,  the  last  water  coming  immediately 
out  of  thn  mountain  on  tho  right ;  and  this 
«pot  waH  selected  for  our  next  encampment. 
Tlio  grass  showod  we'l  in  sunny  places ; 
but  in  colder  situations  the  snow  was  deep, 
and  began  to  occur  in  b  inks,  through  which 
the  horses  found  somu  iliflioulty  in  breaking 
a  way. 

To  the  lefY,  the  open  valley  continued  in 
a  southwesterly  direction,  with  a  scarcely 
perceptible  ascent,  forming  a  beautiful  pass  : 
tho  exploration  of  which  wo  deferred  until 
the  next  day,  and  returned  to  tho  camp. 

To-day  an  Indian  passed  through  the  val- 
ley, on  his  way  into  the  mountains,  where 
he  showed  ns  was  his  lodge.  We  compre- 
hended nothing  of  his  language  ;  and,  though 
he  appeared  to  have  no  fear,  passing  along 
in  full  view  of  the  camp,  he  was  indisposed 
to  hold  any  communioation  with  us,  but 
showed  the  way  he  waa  going,  and  pcioted 
for  ua  to  go  on  our  road. 

By  observation,  the  latitude  of  thia  en- 
campment was  38<3  18'  01",  and  the  eleva- 
tion above  the  sea  6,310  feet. 

January  87. — Leaving  the  camp  to  fol- 
low slowly,  with  directions  to  Carson  to  en- 
camp at  the  place  agreed  on,  Mr.  Fitzpatriok 
and  myself  continued  the  roconnoissance. 
Arriving  at  the  head  of  the  stream,  we  be- 
gan to  enter  the  pass — ^passing  occasionally 
through  open  groves  of  largo  pine  trees,  on 
the  warm  side  of  the  defile,  whens  the  snow 
had  melted  away,  oooasionallj  exposing  a 
large  Indian  trail.  Continuing  along  a  nar- 
row meadow,  we  reached  in  a  few  miles  the 
gate  of  the  pass,  where  there  was  a  narrow 
■trip  of  prairie,  about  fifty  yards  wide,  be- 
tween walls  of  granite  rock.  On  either  side 
roso  the  mountains,  forming  on  the  left  a 
rugged  mass,  or  nucleus,  wholly  covered 
with  deep  snow,  presenting  a  glittering  and 
ioy  surface.  At  the  time,  we  supposed  this 
to  bo  the  point  into  which  they  were  gath- 
ered between  the  two  great  rivers,  and  from 
which  the  waters  flowed  oflf  to  the  bay. 
This  was  the  ioy  and  cold  side  of  the  pass, 
ud  the  rays  of  the  sun  hardly  touched  the 


snow.  On  >i.  •  )»)l\,  the  mountains  ro»«  int« 
peaks;  but  \  w(^.'  ii<<vor  v.nd  Ncrundary, 
and  the  coun  c  lu.l  a  somewhat  morn  opes 
and  lighter  character.  On  thr  riuht  were 
several  hot  springs,  wliir'n  appeared  remark- 
able in  such  a  place.  In  ttoiii)^  thrnugii,  we 
felt  impressed  i)y  tho  imijeiity  of  the  moun- 
tain, along  tho  hugo  wall  of  wliiuli  wn  were 
riding.  Hero  there  wax  no  hmow  ;  but  im- 
mediately beyond  was  a  deep  bank,  through 
which  we  dragged  our  horii-H  with  eonsider- 
able  effort.  We  then  imiiiodiately  struck 
upon  a  stream,  which  gathered  itMelf  rapid- 
ly, and  descended  ijuick  ;  and  tlu  valley  did 
not  preserve  the  open  charaeter  of  the  other 
side,  appearing  below  to  form  a  cai'ion.  We 
therefore  climbed  one  of  the  peaks  on  the 
right,  leaving  our  horses  below  ;  but  we 
were  so  much  shut  up,  that  wo  did  not  ob- 
tain an  extensive  view,  and  what  we  saw 
was  not  very  satisfactory,  and  awakened 
considerable  doubt.  Tho  valley  of  the 
stream  pursued  a  northwesterly  direoiion, 
appearing  below  to  turn  sharply  to  the  right, 
beyond  which  further  view  was  cut  off  It 
was,  nevertheless,  resolved  to  continue  our 
road  the  next  day  down  this  valley,  which 
we  trusted  still  would  prove  that  of  the 
middle  stream  between  tho  two  great  rivers. 
Towards  the  summit  of  this  peak,  the  fields 
of  snow  were  four  or  five  feet  deep  on  the 
northern  side ;  and  we  saw  several  large 
hares,  which  had  on  their  winter  color,  be- 
ing white  as  the  snow  around  them. 

The  winter  day  is  short  in  the  mountains, 
the  sun  having  but  a  small  space  of  sky  to 
travel  over  in  the  visible  part  above  our 
horizon  ;  and  the  moment  his  rays  are  gone, 
the  air  is  keenly  cold.  The  interest  of  our 
work  had  detained  us  long,  and  it  was  after 
nightfall  when  we  reached  tho  camp. 

January  38. — To-day  we  went  through 
the  pass  with  all  the  camp,  and,  after  a  hard 
day's  journey  of  twelve  miles,  encamped  on 
a  high  point  where  the  snow  had  been  blown 
off,  and  the  exposed  grass  afforded  a  scanty 
pasture  for  the  animals.  Snow  and  broken 
country  together  made  our  travelling  diffi- 
cult :  we  were  often  compelled  to  make 
large  circuits,  and  ascend  the  highest  and 
most  exposed  ridges,  in  order  to  avoid 
snow,  which  in  other  places  was  banked  up 
to  a  great  depth. 

During  the  day  a  few  Indians  were  seen 
circling  around  us  on  snow  shoes,  and 
skimmmg  along  like  birds ;  but  we  oould 
not  bring  them  within  speaking  distance. 
Godey,  who  was  a  little  distance  from  the 
camp,  had  sat  down  to  lie  his  moccaainei 
when  he  heard  a  low  whistle  near,  and, 
looking  up,  saw  two  Indians  half  hiding  be 
hind  a  rook  about  forty  yards  distant ;  they 
would  not  allow  him  to  approach,  but 
breaking  into  a  laugh,  skimmed  off  over 


f. 


[1S44 

thi*  mniintniim  roHo  int« 
■   I(/'vi'r  ntid  HiTiMidarj, 
!  II  idiiifwlml  iniirn  opOK 
or.     On   (hi    ri^'ht  wera 
wlii('>.ii|i|))'ari!(l  ruiimrk- 
.      Ill  KoliiU  ihrnuffli,  we 
11!  iii:iji!>ty  ol'  tlio  nioun- 
)  Willi  III'  wliioli  wo  were 
waH  [III  Niiow  ;  but  im- 
raa  a  diicp  bank,  tliriiugh 
our  homrH  with  iionaider- 
hnn  iminodiatt'ly  struck 
oh  t;atht)ri)il  itiiell'  rapid- 
piick  ;  nnil  llui  valley  did 
M-n  Rharnoter  nf  the  other 
)w  to  forin  a  uailun.    We 
ine  of  tho  peak:)  on  the 
horscii   below ;    but    we 
up,  that  wo  did  not  ob- 
ncw,  and  wliat  wo  mm 
isfactory,  and  awakened 
Tho    valley   of    the 
northwesterly  direoiiou, 
turn  sharply  to  the  right, 
ler  view  was  cut  off     It 
resolved  to  continue  our 
down  this  valley,  which 
rould    prove  that  of  the 
vocn  tho  two  great  rivers, 
flit  of  this  poak,  the  fieldi 
or  five  feet  deep  on  the 
d  we  saw  several  large 
on  their  winter  color,  be- 
now  around  them, 
ia  short  in  the  mountains, 
t  a  small  space  of  sky  to 
e  visible  part  above  our 
moment  hia  rays  are  gone, 
lold.     The  interest  of  our 
1  us  long,  and  it  was  after 
reached  the  camp. 
Po-day  we  went  through 
lie  camp,  and,  after  a  hard 
ivelve  miles,  encamped  on 
i  the  snow  had  been  blown 
ad  grass  aiTorded  a  scanty 
imals.     Snow  and  broken 
made  our  travelling  diffi- 
iften  compelled  to  make 
1  ascend  tho  highest  and 
dges,   in   order  to  avoid 
her  places  was  banked  up 

a  few  Indians  were  seen 
lis  on  snow  shoes,  and 
like  birds ;  but  we  oould 
rithin  speaking  distance. 
I  little  distance  from  th« 
wn  to  tie  his  moccasina, 
I  low  whistle  near,  and, 
vo  Indians  half  hiding  be- 
forty  yards  distant ;  thay 
him  to  approach,  bat 
laugh,  skimmed  off  otot 


It44.1 


CAPT.  rRKMONT'S  NAUflATlVR. 


the  snow,  ni'iuiiitiR  (o  have  no. idea  of  tlir 
power  of  (iri'-.-triDK.  and  thinking  t!iein- 
lelves  perfi'ctly  lafu  when  beyond  arm's 
length. 

To-ninht  we  did  not  sucoerd  in  uniting 
the  howitzer  into  ramp.  This  wan  tho 
most  laborious  d.iy  wo  had  yrt  pnimcd 
through,  till!  Hti'i'p  imriuilH  and  ilci>p  miow 
cxhauKlin;!  iiotli  int-n  and  animals.  <>iir 
sinKlo  chroiiiiniotrr  hud  stopped  during  thu 
day,  and  ilH  error  in  time  orraHionoil  the 
lusH  of  an  c'RiipHO  of  u  satellito  this  even- 
ing. It  had  not  iireservod  tho  rate  with 
which  wo  started  Iroin  tho  Dalles,  and  this 
will  account  for  tlin  absunco  of  longitudes 
along  this  interval  of  our  journey. 

January  80. — From  this  height  wo  could 
•CO,  at  a  considcralilo  distance  bolow,  yel- 
low «pots  ill  the  valley,  which  inilicalod 
that  thuro  was  not  much  snow.  Ono  of 
thcso  places  wo  expected  to  reach  to- 
night ;  and  sonio  timo  being  required  to 
bring  up  tho  gun,  I  went  ahead  with  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick  and  a  few  men,  leaving  the 
osmp  to  follow,  in  charge  of  Mr.  Preufte. 
We  followoil  a  trail  down  a  hollow  whore 
the  Indians  had  descended,  the  snow  being 
80  deep  that  we  never  came  near  the 
ground ;  but  this  only  made  our  descent 
the  easier,  and,  when  wo  reached  a  little 
affluent  to  tho  river  at  llm  bottom,  wo  sud- 
denly found  ourselves  in  presence  of  eight 
or  ton  Indians.  They  seemed  to  be  watch- 
ing our  motions,  and,  like  tho  others,  at 
first  were  indicposed  to  let  us  approach, 
ranging  thoinaelvcs  like  birds  on  a  fallen 
log  on  the  hillside  above  our  heads,  where, 
being  out  of  reach,  tlioy  thought  themselves 
safe.  Our  friendly  demeanor  reconciled 
them,  and,  when  we  got  near  enough,  they 
immediately  stretched  out  to  ue  handfuls 
of  pine  nuts,  which  seemed  an  exercise  of 
hospitality.  We  made  them  a  few  pres- 
ents, and,  telling  us  that  their  village  was  a 
few  miles  below,  thoy  wont  on  to  let  their 
people  know  what  we  were.  The  principal 
stream  stiil  running  through  an  impractica- 
ble cailon,  we  ascended  a  very  steep  hill, 
which  proved  afterwards  the  last  and  fatal 
obstacle  to  our  little  howitzer,  which  was 
finally  abandoned  at  this  place.  We  passed 
through  a  small  meadow  a  few  miles  be- 
low, crossing  the  river,  which  depth,  swifV 
current,  and  rock,  made  it  difficult  to  ford  ; 
and,  afVer  a  few  more  miles  of  very  difficult 
trail,  issued  into  a  larger  prairie  bottom,  at 
tlie  farther  end  of  which  we  encamped,  in 
a  position  rendered  strong  by  rocks  and 
trees.  The  lower  parts  of  the  mountain 
were  covered  with  the  nut  pine.  Several 
Indians  appeared  on  the  hillside,  recon- 
noitring the  camp,  and  were  induced  to 
come  in  ;  others  came  in  during  the  after- 
noon ;  and  in  the  evening  we  held  a  coun- 


i-il.  The  IiiiliaiiM  immndinlrlv  niadn  it 
I'Inar  that  tlie  w.-itcrx  on  wliirh  wr  were 
alMii  hi'loiig  to  llii'  trrriit  llaniii,  in  ihi>  edge 
of  wliii'li  wo  liiiil  lieen  Nliiro  tlin  ITtll  ot 
Deci'inln'r ;  and  it  became  eviileiit  that  we 
had  Htill  till'  threat  ridj^e  on  llii>  left  tii  cross 
befiirn  we  rould  rraeli  the  I'lic-ilii*  wiilnrs. 

We  oxplainod  to  the  IiiiIijiiih  tli.it  we 
were  endeavoring  to  tiiid  a  paiiiai^e  arrosa 
the  iiioiintaliiH  into  the  ciiiiiitry  of  tho 
whites,  whom  we  wero  goiiiK  in  «np  ;  and 
told  them  that  wo  wished  tlinii  to  bring  ua 
a  guide,  to  wliiini  we  would  KJve  presenta 
of  scarlet  rioth,  and  other  arliden,  which 
wero  shown  to  them.  They  looked  at  the 
reward  wo  otfored,  and  conl'crreil  with  each 
other,  but  pointed  to  the  niinw  on  the 
mountain,  and  drew  their  hands  acroHs  their 
necks,  and  raised  them  above  their  heads, 
to  show  tho  depth  ;  and  HJgnitii'il  iliat  it 
was  impossible  for  us  to  get  thrim^jli.  Thoy 
made  signs  that  wo  niUNt  go  to  the  Houth- 
ward,  over  a  pass  through  a  lower  range, 
which  Ihuy  pointed  out ;  there,  they  said, 
at  tho  end  of  ono  day'«  travel,  wo  would 
find  people  who  lived  near  a  pass  in  the 
great  mountain ;  and  to  that  point  ihey 
engaged  to  furnish  us  a  guide.  Thoy  ap- 
peared to  have  a  confused  idea,  from  re- 
port, of  whites  who  lived  on  tho  other  side 
of  the  mountain  ;  and  once,  they  told  us, 
about  two  years  ago,  a  party  of  twelve  men 
like  ourselves  had  ascended  their  river, 
and  crossed  to  tho  other  waters.  They 
pointed  out  to  us  where  they  had  crossed  ; 
but  then,  they  said,  it  was  summer  time ; 
but  now  it  would  be  impossible.  I  believe 
that  this  was  a  party  led  by  Mr.  Chiles, 
one  of  the  only  two  men  whom  I  know  to 
have  passed  through  the  California  moun- 
tains from  the  interior  of  tho  Basin- 
Walker  being  tho  other;  and  both  were 
engaged  upwards  of  twenty  days,  in  the 
summer  time,  in  getting  over.  Chiles's 
destination  was  the  bay  of  San  Francisco, 
to  which  he  descended  by  the  Stanislaus 
river;  and  Walker  subsequently  informed 
me  that,  like  myself,  descending  to  tho 
southward  on  a  more  eastern  lino,  day 
after  day  he  was  searching  for  the  Bue- 
naventura, thinking  that  ho  hud  found  it 
with  every  new  stream,  until,  like  me,  he 
abandoned  all  idea  of  its  existence,  and, 
turning  abruptly  to  the  right,  crossed  the 
great  chain.  These  were  both  western 
men,  animated  with  tho  spirit  of  explora- 
tory enterprise  which  characterizes  that 
people. 

The  Indians  brought  in  during  the  even- 
ing an  abundant  supply  of  pine  nuts,  which 
we  traded  from  them.  When  roasted, 
their  pleasant  flavor  made  them  an  agreea- 
ble addition  to  our  now  scanty  store  of 
provisions,  whirh  'vere  'educed  to  a  very 


i:"'t.' 


%   MpI"*' 


138 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[18U. 


hi 


!     s^ 


! 


low  ebb.  Our  principal  stock  was  in  pt:as, 
which  it  is  not  necessary  to  say  contain 
scarcely  any  nutriment.  We  had  still  a 
little  flour  left,  some  coffee,  and  a  quantity 
of  sugar,  which  I  reserved  as  a  defence 
against  starvation. 

The  Indians  informed  us  that  at  certain 
seasons  they  have  fish  in  their  waters, 
which  we  supposed  to  be  salmon  trout ;  for 
the  remainder  of  the  year  they  live  upon 
the  pine  nuts,  which  form  their  great  winter 
subsistence — a  portion  being  always  at 
hand,  shut  up  in  the  natural  storehouse  of 
the  cones.  At  present,  they  were  presented 
to  us  as  a  whole  people  living  upon  this 
siimile  vegetable. 

Tha  other  division  of  the  party  did  not 
some  in  to-night,  but  encamped  in  the  up- 
per meadow,  and  arrived  the  next  morning. 
They  had  not  succeeded  in  getting  the 
howitzer  beyond  the  place  mentioned,  and 
where  it  had  been  left  by  Mr.  Preuss  in 
obedience  to  my  orders  ;  and,  in  anticipa- 
tion of  the  snow  banks  and  snow  fields  still 
ahead,  foreseeing  the  inevitable  detention 
to  which  it  would  subject  us,  I  reluctantly 
determined  to  leave  it  there  for  the  time. 
It  was  of  the  kind  invented  by  the  French 
for  the  mountain  part  of  their  war  in  Al- 
giers ;  and  the  distance  it  had  come  with 
us  proved  how  well  it  was  adapted  to  its 
purpose.  We  leh  it,  to  the  great  sorrow 
of  the  whole  party,  who  were  grieved  to 
part  with  a  companion  which  had  trade 
t!ie  whole  distance  from  St.  Louis,  and 
commanded  respect  for  us  on  some  critical 
occasions,  and  which  might  be  needed  fur 
the  same  purpose  again. 

January  30. — Our  guide,  who  was  a 
voung  man,  joined  us  this  morning ;  and, 
leaving  our  encampment  late  in  the  day, 
we  descended  the  river,  which  immediately 
opened  out  into  a  broad  valley,  furnishing 
good  travelling  ground.  In  a  short  di&tance 
we  passed  the  village,  a  collection  of  straw 
huts ;  and  a  few  miles  below,  the  guide 
pointed  out  the  place  where  the  whites  had 
been  encamped  before  they  entered  the 
mountain.  With  our  late  start  we  made 
but  ten  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  low 
river  bottom,  where  there  was  no  snow,  but 
a  great  deal  of  ice ;  and  we  cut  piles  of 
long  grass  to  lay  under  our  blankets,  and 
fires  were  made  of  large  dry  willows, 
groves  of  which  wooded  the  stream«  The 
river  took  here  a  northeasterly  direction, 
and  through  a  spur  from  the  uiuuntains  on 
the  left  was  the  gap  where  we  were  to  pass 
the  next  day. 

January  31. — ^We  took  our  way  over  a 
gently  rising  ground,  the  dividmg  ridge  be- 
lug  tolerably  low;  and  travelling  easily 
along  a  broad  trail,  in  twelve  or  fourteen 
miles  reached  the  upper  part  of  the  pass. 


when  it  began  to  snow  thickly,  with  very 
cold  weather.  The  Indians  had  only  the 
usual  scanty  covering,  ^nd  ap|)earod  to  suf- 
fer greatly  from  the  cold.  All  left  us,  ex- 
cept our  guide.  Half  hidden  by  the  storm, 
the  mountains  looked  dreary  .  and,  as  night 
began  to  approach,  the  guide  showed  great 
reluctance  to  go  forward.  I  pliiced  him 
between  two  rifles,  for  the  way  began  to  be 
difficult.  Travelling  a  little  farther,  we 
struck  a  ravine,  which  the  Indian  said 
would  conduct  us  to  the  river ;  and  as  the 
poor  fellow  suffered  greatly,  shivering  in 
the  snow  which  fell  upon  his  naked  skin,  I 
would  not  detain  him  any  longer ;  aod  he 
ran  off  to  the  mountain,  where  he  said 
there  was  a  hut  near  by.  He  had  kept  the 
blue  and  scarlet  cloth  I  had  given  him 
tightly  rolled  up,  preferring  rather  to  endure 
the  cold  than  to  get  them  wet.  In  the 
course  of  the  afternoon,  one  of  the  men  had 
his  foot  frost-bitten ;  and  about  dark  we  had 
tt  3  satisfaction  to  reach  the  bottoms  of  a 
stream  timbered  with  large  trees,  among 
which  we  found  a  sheltered  camp,  with  an 
abundance  of  such  grass  as  the  season  af- 
forded for  the  animals.  We  saw  before  us, 
in  descending  from  the  pass,  a  great  continu 
ous  range,  along  which  stretched  the  valleT 
of  the  river ;  the  lower  parts  steep,  and  dark 
with  pines,  while  above  it  was  hidden  in 
clouds  of  snow.  This  we  felt  instantly  satisfi- 
ed was  the  central  ridge  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
the  great  California  mountain,  which  only 
now  intervened  between  us  and  the  waters 
of  the  bay.  We  hp.d  made  a  forced  march 
of  26  miles,  and  three  mules  had  given  out 
on  the  road.  Up  to  tliis  point,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  two  stolen  by  Indians,  we  had 
lost  none  of  the  horses  which  had  been 
brought  from  the  Columbia  river,  and  a 
number  of  these  were  still  strong  and  in  tol- 
erably good  order.  We  had  now  67  ani- 
mals in  the  band. 

We  had  scarcely  lighted  our  fires,  when 
the  camp  was  crowded  with  nearly  naked 
Indians ;  some  of  them  were  furnished  with 
long  nets  in  addition  to  bows,  and  appeared 
to  have  been  cut  on  the  s'age  hills  to  hunt 
rabbits.  These  nets  were  perhaps  30  to  40~ 
feet  long,  kept  upright  in  the  ground  by 
slight  sticks  at  intervals,  and  were  made 
from  a  kind  of  wild  hemp,  very  much  re* 
sembling  in  manufacture  those  common 
among  the  Indians  of  the  Sacramento  val- 
ley. They  came  r.mong  us  without  any  fear, 
and  scattered  themselves  about  the  fires, 
mainly  occupied  in  gratifying  their  astonish* 
mont,  I  was  struck  by  the  singular  ap- 
pearance  of  a  row  of  about  a  dozen,  whs 
were  sitting  on  their  haunches  perched  on 
a  log  near  one  of  the  fires,  with  their  quiol> 
sharp  eyes  following  every  motion. 

We  gathered  together  a  few  of  the  ins* 


W% 


^    li 


le 


[1844. 

enow  tliickly,  with  Terjr 

le  Indians  had  only  the 

ing,  ^nd  ap|)earod  to  suf- 

cold.     All  left  us,  ex- 

lalf  hidden  by  the  storm, 

[ed  dreary .  and,  as  night 

the  guide  showed  great 

forward.      I  placed  him 

for  the  way  began  to  be 

ling   a  little   farther,  we 

which   the   Indian   said 

to  the  river ;  and  as  the 

red  greatly,  shivering  in 

II  upon  his  naked  skin,  I 

him  any  longer ;  and  he 

lountain,  where    he   said 

ear  by.     He  had  kept  the 

cloth   I  had    given    him 

ireferring  rather  to  endure 

get   them  wet.     In  the 

rnoon,  one  of  the  men  had 

n  ;  and  about  dark  we  had 

<  reach  the  bottoms  of  a 

with   large  trees,  among 

t  sheltered  camp,  with  an 

h  grass  as  the  season  af- 

mals.    We  saw  before  us, 

n  the  pass,  a  great  continu 

which  stretched  the  valley 

ower  parts  steep,  and  dark 

I  above  it  was  hidden  in 

'his  we  felt  instantly  satisfi- 

ridge  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 

nia  mountain,  which  only 

etween  us  and  the  waters 

hnd  made  a  forced  march 

three  mules  had  given  out 

I  to  this  point,  with  the  ex- 

Jtolen  by  Indians,  we  had 

i  horses  which  had  been 

e  Columbia   river,  and  a 

vete  still  strong  and  in  tol- 

3r.    We  had  now  67  ani- 

dy  lighted  our  fires,  whan 
rowded  with  nearly  naked 
'them  were  furnished  with 
tion  to  bows,  and  appeared 
;  on  the  ^age  hills  to  hunt 
lets  were  perhaps  30  to  40' 
upright  in  the  ground  by 
intervals,  and  were  made 
vild  hemp,  very  much  ro- 
Rufacture  those  common 
IS  of  the  Sacramento  val- 
.mong  us  without  any  fear, 
emselves  about  the  fires, 
n  gratifying  ihoir  astonish* 
ruck  by  the  singular  ap< 
iw  of  abcut  a  dozen,  wha 
leir  haunches  perched  on 
the  fires,  with  their  quici' 
ing  every  motion, 
ogether  a  few  of  the 


1844.] 


CAPT.  FilEM(JNT'S  NAliRATIVE. 


139 


intelligent  of  the  Indians,  and  held  this  even- 
ing an  interesting  council.  I  explained  to 
them  my  intentions.  I  told  them  that  we 
had  c6me  from  a  very  far  country,  having 
been  travelling  now  nearly  a  year,  and  that 
we  were  desirous  simply  to  go  across  the 
mountain  into  the  country  of  the  other 
wiiitcs.  There  were  two  who  appeared 
particularly  intelligent — one,  a  somewhat 
old  man.  He  told  me  that,  before  the  snows 
fell,  it  was  six  sleeps  to  the  place  where 
the  whites  lived,  but  that  now  it  was  im- 
possible to  cross  the  mountain  on  account 
of  the  deep  snow ;  and  showing  us,  as  the 
others  had  done,  that  it  was  over  our  heads, 
he  urged  us  strongly  to  follow  the  course 
of  the  river,  which  he  said  would  conduct 
us  to  a  lake  in  which  there  were  many  large 
fish.  There,  he  said,  were  many  people ; 
there  was  no  snow  on  the  ground  ;  and  we 
might  remain  there  until  the  spring.  From 
their  descriptions,  we  were  enabled  to  judge 
that  we  had  encamped  on  the  upper  water 
of  the  Salmon  Trout  river.  It  is  hardly 
necessary  to  say  that  our  communication 
was  only  by  signs,  as  we  understood  no- 
thing of  their  language  ;  hut  they  spoke, 
lotwithstanding,  rapidly  and  vehemently, 
ixplaining  what  they  considered  the  folly 
tf  cur  intentions,  and  urging  us  to  go  down 
o  the  lake.  Tdh-ve,  a  word  signifying 
tnow,  we  very  soon  learned  to  know,  from 
ts  frequent  repetition.  I  told  him  that  the 
nen  and  the  horses  were  strong,  and  that 
HB  would  break  a  road  through  the  snow  ; 
ind  spreading  before  him  our  bales  of  scar- 
'et  cloth,  and  trinkets,  showed  him  what  we 
ivould  give  for  a  guide.  It  was  necessary 
!o  obtain  one,  if  possible ;  for  I  had  deter- 
mined here  to  attempt  the  passage  of  the 
mountain.  Pulling  a  bunch  of  grass  from 
the  ground,  after  a  short  discussion  among 
themselves,  the  old  man  made  us  compre- 
hend, that  if  we  could  break  through  the 
mow,  at  the  end  of  tnree  days  we  would 
'some  down  upon  grass,  which  he  showed  us 
would  be  about  six  inches  high,  and  where 
(he  ground  was  entirely  free.  So  far,  he 
•5aid,  he  had  been  in  hunting  for  elk  ;  but 
fteyond  that  (and  he  closed  his  eyes)  he  had 
4een  nothing;  but  there  was  one  among 
Ihem  who  had  been  to  the  whites,  and,  go- 
mg  out  of  the  lodge,  he  returned  with  a 
roung  man  c**  very  intelligent  appearance. 
Here,  said  he,  is  a  young  man  who  has 
seen  the  whites  with  his  own  eyes ;  and  he 
iwore  first  by  the  sky,  and  then  by  the 
ground,  that  what  he  said  was  true.  With 
R  large  present  of  goods,  we  prevailed  upon 
this  young  man  to  be  our  guide,  and  he  ac- 
quired among  us  the  name  M6lo — a  word 
wgnifying  friend,  which  they  used  very  fre- 
quently. He  was  thinly  clad,  and  nearly 
barefoot ;  his  moccasins  being  about  worn 


out.  We  gave  him  skins  to  make  a  new 
pair,  and  to  enable  him  to  perform  his  un- 
dertaking to  us.  The  Indians  remained  in 
the  camp  during  the  night,  and  we  kept  the 
guide  and  two  others  to  sleep  in  the  lodge 
with  us — Carson  lying  across  the  door,  and 
having  made  them  comprehend  the  use  of  out 
fire-arms.  The  snow,  which  had  intermit- 
ted in  the  evening,  commenced  falling  again 
in  the  course  of  the  night,  and  it  snowed 
steadily  all  day.  In  the  morning  1  acquaint- 
ed the  men  with  my  decision,  and  explained 
to  them  that  necessity  required  us  to  make 
a  great  effort  to  clear  the  mountains.  I  re- 
minded them  of  the  beautiful  valley  of  the 
Sacramento,  with  which  they  were  familiar 
from  tlie  descriptions  of  Carson,  who  had 
been  there  some  fifteen  years  ago,  and  who, 
in  our  late  privations,  had  delighted  us  in 
speaking  of  its  rich  pastures  and  abounding 
game,  and  drew  a  vivid  contrast  bewecn  its 
summer  climate,  less  than  a  hundred  miles 
distant,  and  the  falling  snow  around  us.  I 
informed  them  (and  long  experience  had 
given  them  confidence  in  my  observations 
and  good  instruments)  that  almost  directly 
west,  and  only  about  70  miles  distant,  was 
the  great  farming  establishment  of  Captain 
Sutter — a  gentleman  who  had  formerly 
lived  in  Missouri,  and,  emigrating  to  this 
country,  had  become  the  possessor  of  a 
principality.  I  assured  them  that,  from  the 
heights  of  the  mountain  before  us,  we 
should  doubtless  see  the  valley  of  the  Sa- 
cramento .iver,  and  with  one  effort  place 
ourselves  again  in  the  midst  of  plenty.  I'he 
people  received  this  decision  with  the  cheer- 
ful obedience  which  had  always  character- 
ized them ;  and  the  day  was  immediately 
devoted  to  the  prepara.'ons  necessary  to  en- 
able us  to  carry  it  into  effect.  Leggins, 
moccasins,  clothing — all  were  put  into  the 
best  state  to  resist  the  cold.  Our  guide  was 
not  neglected.  Extremity  of  suffering  might 
make  him  desert ;  we  therefore  did  the  best 
Wb  could  for  him.  Leggins,  moccasins, 
some  articles  of  clothing,  and  a  large  green 
blanket,  in  addition  to  the  blue  and  scarlet 
cloth,  were  lavished  upon  him,  and  to  his 
great  and  evident  contentment.  He  array- 
ed himself  in  all  his  colors ;  and,  clad  in 
green,  blue,  and  scarlet,  he  made  a  gay- 
looking  Indian  ;  and,  with  his  various  pres- 
ents, was  probably  richer  and  better  cloth- 
ed than  any  of  his  tribe  had  ever  been 
before. 

I  have  already  said  that  our  provisions 
were  very  low  ;  we  kad  neither  tallow  nor 
grease  of  any  kind  remaining,  and  the  want 
of  salt  became  one  of  our  greatest  privations. 
The  poor  dog  which  had  been  found  in  the 
Bear  river  valley,  and  which  bad  been  a 
eompagnon  de  voyage  ever  since,  had  now 
become  fat,  and  the  mess  to  which  it  be- 


f,ig»*'«*****' 


r^'r 


140 


CAPT.  FIIKMONTS  NARRATIVE. 


[ISil. 


.onged  reijiiested  permission  to  kill  it.  Lciivn 
was  granted.  Spread  out  on  the  snow,  the 
meat  looked  very  good  ;  and  it  made  a 
Btrsni;thening  meal  for  the  greater  part  of 
twe  cump.  Indians  brought  in  two  or  three 
rabbits  during  the  day,  which  were  pur- 
chased from  tiiem. 

The  river  was  40  to  70  feet  wide,  and 
now  entirely  frozen  over.  It  wiis  wooded 
with  large  cotton-wood,  willow,  and  grain 
de  bceuf.  Hy  observation,  the  latitude  of 
this  encampment  was  38°  37'  IH". 

February  2. — It  had  ceased  snowing, 
and  this  morning  the  lower  air  was  clear 
and  frosty  ;  and  six  or  seven  thousand  feet 
above,  the  peaks  of  the  Sierra  now  and  then 
appeared  among  the  rolling  clouds,  which 
were  rapidly  dispersing  before  the  sun.  Our 
Indian  shook  his  head  as  he  pomted  to  the 
icy  pinnacles,  shooting  high  up  into  the  sky, 
and  seeming  almost  immediately  above  us. 
Crossing  the  river  on  the  ice,  and  leaving 
it  immediately,  we  commenced  the  ascent 
of  the  mountain  along  the  valley  of  a  tribu- 
tary stream.  The  people  were  unusually 
siieiii ,  for  evtry  man  knew  that  our  enter- 
prise was  hazardous,  and  the  issue  doubtful. 

The  snow  deepened  rapidly,  and  it  soon 
became  necessary  to  break  a  road.  For 
this  service,  a  party  of  ten  was  formed, 
mounted  on  the  strongest  horses ;  each 
man  in  succession  opening  the  road  on  foot, 
or  on  horseback,  until  himself  and  his  horse 
became  fatigued,  when  he  stepped  aside ; 
and,  the  remaining  number  passing  ahead, 
he  took  his  station  in  the  rear.  Leaving 
this  stream,  and  pursuing  a  very  direct 
course,  we  passed  over  an  intervening  ridge 
to  the  river  we  had  left.  On  the  way  we 
passed  two  low  huts  entirely  covered  with 
snow,  which  might  very  easily  have  escaped 
observation.  A  family  was  living  in  each  ; 
and  the  only  trail  I  saw  in  the  neighbor- 
hood was  from  the  door-hole  to  a  nut-pine 
ti&a  near,  which  supplied  them  with  food 
and  fuel.  We  found  two  similar  huts  on 
the  creek  where  we  next  arrived  ;  and, 
ravelling  a  little  higher  up,  encamped  on 
,ts  banks  in  about  four  feet  depth  of  snow. 
Carson  found  near,  an  open  hill  side,  where 
the  wind  and  the  sun  had  melted  the  snow, 
leaving  exposed  sufficient  bunch  grass  for 
the  animals  to-night. 

The  nut-pines  were  now  giving  way  to 
heavy  timber,  and  there  were  some  im- 
mense pines  on  the  bottom,  around  the  roots 
of  which  the  sun  had  melted  away  the 
snow;  and  here  we  made  our  camp  and 
built  huge  fires.  To-day  we  had  travelled 
sixteen  miles,  and  our  elevation  above  the 
sea  was  6,760  feet 

February  3. — Turning  our  faces  directly 
towards  the  main  chain,  we  ascended  an 
open  hollow  along  a  small  tributary  to  the 


river,  which,  according  to  the  Indians.  iHuat 
from  a  mountain  to  the  south.  Tho  snow 
was  so  deep  in  the  hollow,  that  we  were 
obliged  to  travel  along  the  steep  hill'sides, 
and  over  spurs,  where  wind  and  sun  had  in 
places  lessened  the  snow,  and  where  the 
grass,  which  appeared  to  be  in  good  quality 
along  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  wa.s  ex- 
posed. We  opened  our  road  in  the  same 
way  as  yesterday,  but  made  only  seven 
miles  ;  and  encamped  by  some  sjjrings  at 
the  loot  of  a  high  and  stctsp  liill,  by  which 
the  hollow  ascended  to  another  basin  in  the 
mountain.  The  little  stream  below  was 
entirely  buried  in  snow.  The  springs  were 
shaded  by  the  boughs  of  a  lofty  cedar,  which 
here  made  its  first  appearance  ;  the  usual 
height  was  120  to  130  feet,  and  one  that 
was  measured  near  by  was  6  feet  in  diam- 
eter. 

There  being  no  grass  exposed  here,  the 
horses  were  sent  back  to  that  wliich  we  had 
seen  a  few  miles  below.  We  occupied  the 
remainder  of  the  day  in  beating  down  a  road 
to  the  foot  of  the  hill,  a  mile  or  two  distant , 
the  snow  being  beaten  down  when  moist,  in 
the  warm  part  of  the  day,  and  then  hard 
frozen  at  night,  made  a  foundation  that 
would  bear  the  weight  of  the  animals  the 
next  morning.  During  the  day  several  In- 
dians joined  us  on  snow  shoes.  These  were 
made  of  a  circular  hoop,  about  a  foot  in  di- 
ameter, the  interior  space  being  filled  with 
an  open  network  of  bark. 

February  4. — I  went  ahead  early  with 
two  or  three  men,  each  with  a  led  horse,  to 
break  the  road.  We  were  obliged  to  aban- 
don the  hollow  entirely,  and  work  along  ttie 
mountain  side,  which  was  very  steep,  and 
the  snow  covered  with  an  icy  crust.  We 
cut  a  footing  as  we  advanced,  and  trampled 
a  road  through  for  the  animals ;  but  occa- 
sionally one  plunged  outside  the  trail,  and 
slided  along  the  field  to  the  bottom,  a  hun- 
dred yards  below.  Lata  in  the  day  we 
reached  another  bench  in  the  hollow,  where, 
in  summer,  the  stream  passed  over  a  small 
precipice.  Here  was  a  short  distance  of 
dividing  ground  between  the  two  ridges,  and 
beyond  an  open  basin,  some  ten  miles  across, 
whose  bottom  presented  a  field  of  snuw.  At 
the  further  or  western  side  rose  the  middle 
crest  of  the  mountain,  a  dark-looking  ridge 
of  volcanic  rock. 

The  summit  line  presented  a  range  of 
naked  peaks,  apparently  destitute  of  snow 
and  vegetation  ;  but  below,  the  face  of  the 
whole  country  was  covered  with  timber  of 
extraordinary  size. 

Towards  a  pass  which  the  guide  indicated 
here,  we  attempted  in  the  afternoon  to  force 
a  road ;  but  after  a  laborious  plunging 
through  two  or,  three  hundred  yards,  our 
best  horses  gave  out,  entirely  rcfusiug  ta 


:  m:t 


ling  to  the  Indiana,  iMUdi 
0  the  south.  Tho  snow 
ie  hollow,  that  we  were 
lon^  the  steep  hill'sides, 
ere  wind  and  snn  had  in 
snow,  and  where  tht 
red  to  be  in  good  quality 
the  mountains,  was  ex- 
d  our  rond  in  the  same 
but  made  only  seven 
ped  by  sunie  sj)rings  at 
and  steep  liill,  by  which 
td  to  another  basin  in  the 
ittle  stream  below  was 
mow.  The  springs  were 
hs  of  a  lofty  cedar,  which 
appearance  ;  the  usual 
130  feet,  and  ono  that 
r  by  was  6  feet  in  diam- 


it 


grass  exposed  hcie,  the 

)ack  to  that  which  we  had 

»elow.     We  occupied  the 

ay  in  beating  down  a  road 

till,  a  mile  ur  two  distant , 

aten  down  when  moist,  in 

the  day,  and  then  hard 

made   a  foundatioa   that 

reight  of  the  animals  the 

luring  the  day  several  In- 

snow  shoes.    These  were 

r  hoop,  about  a  foot  in  di- 

or  space  being  Ailed  with 

of  bark. 

I  went  ahead  early  with 
,  each  with  a  led  horse,  to 
We  were  obliged  to  aban- 
tirely,  and  work  along  the 
hich  was  very  steep,  and 
i  with  an  icy  crust.  We 
ve  advanced,  and  trampled 
[>r  the  animals ;  but  occa- 
ared  outside  the  trail,  and 
icld  to  the  bottom,  a  hun- 
V.  Lata  in  the  day  we 
ench  in  the  hollow,  wliere, 
Team  passed  over  a  small 
was  a  short  distance  of 
etween  the  two  ridges,  and 
isin,  some  ten  miles  across, 
sented  a  field  of  snow.  Al 
stern  side  rose  the  middle 
tain,  a  dark-looking  ridge 

ne  presented  a  range  of 
arentiy  destitute  of  snow 
)ut  below,  the  face  of  the 
8  covered  with  timber  of 
I. 

I  which  the  guide  indicated 
d  in  the  afternoon  to  force 
ir  a  laborious  plunging 
three  hundred  yards,  our 
out,  entirely  rcfusiug  to 


.844. J 


CAPT.  FUEMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


1:41 


make  any  further  effort ;  and,  for  the  time, 
«re  were  brought  to  a  stand.  The  guide 
informed  us  that  we  weue  entnrinf  tho  deep 
MOW,  and  here  began  the  ditliculties  of  the 
mountain ;  and  to  him,  and  almost  to  all, 
our  enterprise  scorned  hopeless.  I  returned 
1  short  distance  back,  fo  the  break  in  tho 
hollow,  where  1  met  Mr.  Fitzpatrick. 

The  camp  had  been  all  the  day  occupied 
m  endeavoring  to  ascend  the  hill,  but  only  the 
best  horses  had  succeeded  ,  the  animals, 
generally,  not  having  sufHcient  strength  to 
Bring  themselves  up  without  the  packs ; 
and  all  the  line  of  road  between  this  and 
the  springs  was  strewed  with  camp  stores 
and  equipage,  and  horses  floundering  in 
snow.  I  therefore  immediately  encamped 
on  the  ground  with  my  own  mess,  which 
was  in  advance,  and  directed  Mr.  Fitzpat- 
rick to  encamp  at  the  springs,  and  send  all 
the  animals,  in  charge  of  Tabeau,  with  a 
strong  guard,  back  to  the- place  where  they 
had  been  pastured  the  night  before.  Here 
was  a  small  spot  of  level  ground,  protected 
on  one  side  by  the  mountain,  and  on  the 
other  sheltered  by  a  little  ridge  of  rock.  It 
was  an  open  grove  of  pines,  which  assimi- 
lated in  size  to  the  grandeur  of  the  moun- 
tain, being  frequently  six  feet  in  diameter. 

To-night  we  had  no  shelter,  but  we  made 
a  large  fire  around  the  trunk  of  one  of  the 
huge  pines ;  and  covering  the  snow  with 
small  boughs,  on  which  we  spread  our  blan- 
kets, soon  made  ourselves  comfortable.  The 
night  was  very  bright  and  clear,  though  the 
thermometer  was  only  at  10°.  A  strong 
wind,  which  sprang  up  at  sundown,  made  it 
intensely  cold  ;  and  this  was  one  of  the  bit- 
terest nights  during  the  journey. 

Two  Indi.ins  joined  our  party  here  ;  and 
one  of  them,  an  old  man,  immediately  be- 
gan to  harangue  us,  saying  that  ourselves 
and  animals  would  perish  in  the  snow ;  and 
that  if  we  would  go  back,  he  would  show 
us  another  and  a  better  way  across  t',e 
mountain.  He  spoke  in  a  very  loud  voice, 
and  there  was  a  singular  repetition  of 
phrases  and  arrangement  of  words,  which 
rendered  his  speech  striking,  and  not  un- 
musical. 

We  had  now  begun  to  understand  some 
words,  and,  with  the  aid  of  signs,  easily 
comprehended  the  old  man's  simple  ideas. 
"  Rock  upon  rock — rock  upon  rock — snow 
upon  snow — snow  upon  snow,"  said  he ; 
•'  even  if  you  get  over  the  snow,  you  will 
not  be  able  to  get  down  from  the  mountains." 
He  made  us  the  sign  of  precipices,  and 
showed  us  how  the  feet  of  the  horses  would 
■lip,  and  throw  them  oiT  from  the  narrow 
trails  which'  led  along  their  sides.  Our 
Chinook,  who  comprehended  even  more 
readily  than  ourselves,  and  believed  our 
•ituatiop  hopeless,  covered  his  head  with 


his  blanket,  and  began  to  wec])  ami  lament. 
"  I  wanted  to  see  the  whites,"  said  he  ;  "  1 
came  away  from  my  own  peojile  to  sen  the 
whites,  and  I  wouldn't  care  to  die  among 
them ;  but  here" — and  he  looked  around 
into  the  cold  night  and  gloomy  ibrest,  and, 
drawing  his  blanket  over  his  head,  began 
again  to  lament. 

Seated  around  the  tree,  the  fire  illumina- 
ting  the  rocks  ahd  the  tall  bolls  of  the  pines 
round  about,  and  the  old  Indian  haranguing, 
we  presented  a  group  of  very  serious  faces. 

February  5. — The  night  had  been  too 
cold  to  sleep,  and  we  were  up  very  early. 
Our  guide  was  standing  by  the  fire  with  all 
his  finery  on  ;  and  seeing  him  shiver  in  the 
cold,  I  threw  on  his  shoulders  one  of  my 
blankets.  We  missed  him  a  few  minutes , 
afterwards,  and  never  saw  him  again.  He 
had  deserted.  His  bad  faith  and  treachery 
were  in  perfect  keeping  with  the  estimate 
of  Indian  character,  which  a  long  inter- 
course with  this  people  had  gradually  forced 
upon  my  mind. 

While  a  portion  of  the  camp  were  occu- 
pied in  bringing  up  the  baggage  to  this  i 
point,  the  remainder  were  busied  in  making ! 
sledges  and  snow  shoes.  I  had  determined 
to  explore  the  mountain  ahead,  aud  the 
jledges  were  to  be  used  iu  transporting  the 
baggage. 

The  mountains  hero  consisted  wholly  of 
a  white  micaceous  granite. 

The  day  was  perfectly  clear,  and,  while 
the  sun  was  in  the  sky,  warm  and  pleasant. 

By  observation,  our  latitude  was  38°  42' 
26" ;    and  elevation,  by  the  boiling  point,  , 
7,400  feet. 

February  6. — Accompanied  by  Mr.  Fitz-  i 
patrirk,  I  set  out  to-day  with  a  reconnoitring 
party,  on  snow  shoos.  We  marched  all  in 
single  file,  ti.impUiig  the  snow  as  heavily  as 
we  could.  Crossing  the  open  basin,  in  a 
march  of  abc.  '  t^'n  miles  v;e  reached  the 
top  of  one  of  .ir  peaks,  i.o  the  left  of  the 
pass  indicated  b\  our  guide.  Far  below  us, 
dimmed  by  the  distance,  was  a  large  snow- 
less  valley,  bounded  on  the  western  side,  at 
the  distance  of  about  a  hnndred  miles,  by  a 
low  t^.""^e  of  mountains,  which  Carson  re,-\ 
cogrit.^i  .vith  delight  as  the  moimtains  bor- 
dering the  coast.  "  There,"  said  he,  "  is 
the  little  mountain — it  is  15  years  ago  since 
I  saw  it ;  but  I  am  just  as  sure  as  if  I  had 
seen  it  yesterday."  Between  us,  then,  and 
this  I'/w  coast  range,  was  the  valley  of  the 
Saciaiiiento  ;  and  no  one  who  had  not  ac- 
companied us  through  the  incidents  of  our 
life  for  the  last  few  months  could  realize 
the  delight  with  which  at  last  we  looked 
down  upon  it.  At  the  distance  of  apparently 
30  miles  beyond  us  were  distinguished  spots  \ 
of  prairie  ;  and  a  dark  line,  which  could  b«  I 
traced  with  the  glass,  was  imagined  to  be 


rw 


149 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


(1844 


.fi 


I    , 


m 


i.-i:K: 


the  course  of  tho  nvor  •  but  we  were  evi- 
dently at  a  great  height  abovn  the  valley, 
and  between  us  and  the  plains  extended 
miles  of  snowy  fields  and  broken  ridgefs  of 
pine-covered  mountains. 

It  was  late  in  tho  day  when  we  turned 
towards  the  camp ;  and  it  grew  rapidly  cold 
as  it  drew  towards  night.  One  of  the  men 
became  fatigued,  and  his  feet  began  to 
freeze,  and,  building  a  fire  in  the  trunk  of 
a  dry  old  cedar,  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  remained 
with  him  until  his  clothes  could  be  dried, 
and  ho  was  in  a  condition  to  come  on.  Af- 
ter a  day's  march  of  20  miles,  we  straggled 
into  camp,  one  after  another,  ?.\  nightt'all ; 
the  greater  number  excessively  fatigued, 
only  two  of  the  party  having  ever  travelled 
on  snow  shoes  before. 

All  our  energies  were  now  directed  to 
getting  our  animals  across  the  snow  ;  and 
it  was  supposed  that,  after  all  the  baggage 
had  been  drawn  with  the  sleighs  over  the 
trail  we  had  made,  it  would  be  sufficiently 
hard  to  bear  our  animals.  At  several  places, 
between  this  point  and  the  ridge,  we  had 
discovered  some  grassy  spots,  where  the 
wind  and  sun  had  dispersed  the  snow  from 
the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  these  were  to  form 
resting  places  to  support  the  animals  for  a 
night  in  their  passage  across.  On  our  way 
across,  we  had  set  on  fire  several  broken 
stumps,  and  dried  trees,  to  melt  holes  in  the 
snow  for  the  camps.  Its  general  depth  was 
6  feet ;  but  we  passed  over  places  where  it 
was  80  feet  deep,  as  shown  by  the  trees. 

With  one  party  drawing  sleighs  loaded 
with  baggage,  I  advanced  to-day  about  four 
miles  along  the  trail,  and  encamped  at  the 
first  grassy  spot,  where  we  expected  to 
bring  our  horses.  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  with 
another  party,  remained  behind ,  to  form  an 
intermediate  station  between  ua  and  the  ani- 
mals. 

February  8. — The  night  has  been  ex- 
tremely cold  ;  but  perfectly  still,  and  beau- 
tifully clea. .  Before  the  sun  appeared  this 
,  morning,  tho  thermometer  was  3°  below 
zero ;  lo  higher,  when  his  rays  struck  the 
lofty  peaks ;  and  0°  when  they  reached  our 
camp. 

Scenery  and  weather,  combined,  must 
render  these  mountains  beautiful  in  summer  ; 
tho  purity  and  deep-blue  color  of  tho  sky 
are  singularly  beautiful ;  the  days  are  sunny 
and  bright,  and  even  warm  in  the  noon 
hours ;  and  if  we  could  be  free  from  the 
many  anxieties  that  oppress  us,  even  now 
we  would  be  delighted  here  ;  but  our  pro- 
visions are  getting  fearfully  scant.  Sleighs 
arrived  wilh  baggage  about  10  o'clock  ;  and 
leaving  a  portion  of  it  here,  we  continued 
on  for  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  encamped  at 
the  foot  cf  a  long  hill  on  this  side  of  the 
open  bottom. 


Dernier  and  Godey,  who  yesterday  morn 
ini^  liad  been  sent  to  ascend  a  higher  peak 
got  in,  hungry  and  fatigued.  They  con- 
firmed what  we  had  already  seen.  Two 
other  sleighs  arrived  in  the  afternoon  ;  and 
the  men  beinor  fatigued,  I  gave  them  all  tea 
and  sugar.  Snow  clouds  began  to  rise  in 
the  SSVV.  ;  arid,  apprehensive  of  a,  storm, 
which  would  destroy  our  road,  I  sent  the 
people  back  to  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  with  direc- 
tions to  send  for  the  animals  in  the  morning. 
With  me  remained  Mr.  Preuss,  Mr.  Talbot, 
and  Carson,  with  Jacob. 

Elevation  of  the  camp,  by  the  boiling 
point,  is  7,920  feet. 

February  9. — During  the  nifrht  the  weath- 
er changed,  the  wind  rising  to  a  gale,  and 
commencing  to  snow  before  daylight ;  be- 
fore morning  the  trail  was  covered.  We 
remained  quiet  in  camp  all  day,  in  the  course 
of  which  the  weather  improved.  Foui 
sleighs  arrived  toward  evening,  with  the 
bedding  of  the  men.  We  sulTer  much  from 
the  want  of  salt ;  and  all  the  men  are  be- 
coming weak  from  msutRcient  food. 

February  10. — Taplin  was  sent  back 
with  a  few  men  to  assist  Mr.  Fitzpatrick ; 
and  continuing  on  with  three  sleighs  carry- 
ing  a  part  of  the  baggage,  we  had  the  satis- 
faction to  encamp  within  two  and  a  half 
miles  of  the  head  of  the  hollow,  and  at  the 
foot  of  the  last  mountain  ridge.  Here  two 
large  trees  had  been  set  on  fire,  and  in  the 
holes,  where  the  snow  had  been  melted  . 
aw.iy,  we  found  a  comfortable  camp. 

I'he  wind  kept  the  air  filled  with  snow 
during  the  day  ;  the  sky  was  very  dark  in 
the  southwest,  though  elsewhere  very  clear. 
The  forest  here  has  a.  noble  appearanc  ; ; 
the  tall  cedar  is  abundant ;  its  frrealest 
height  being  130  feet,  and  circumierence 
20,  three  or  four  feet  above  the  ground  : 
and  here  I  see  for  the  first  time  the  white 
pine,  of  which  there  are  some  magniticent 
trees.  Hemlock  spruce  is  among  tho  tim- 
ber, occasionally  as  large  as  8  feet  in  diam- 
eter four  feet  above  the  ground  ;  but.  in  as- 
cending, it  tapers  rapidly  to  less  than  one 
foot  at  the  height  of  80  feet.  I  have  not 
seen  any  higher  than  .30  feet,  and  tho 
slight  upper  part  is  frequently  broken  off  liy 
the  wind.  The  white  spruce  is  frequent : 
and  the  red  pine,  (pinus  Colorado  of  the 
Mexicans,)  which  constitutes  the  beautiful 
forest  along  the  flanks  of  the  Sierra  Neva- 
da to  the  northward,  is  here  the  principal 
tree,  not  attaining  a  greater  height  than  140 
feet,  though  with  sometimes  a  diameter  of 
10.  Most  of  these  trees  appeared  to  differ 
slightly  from  those  of  the  same  kind  on  the 
other  side  of  the  continent. 

The  elevation  of  the  eamp,  by  the  boiling 
point,  is  S.O.'iO  feet.  Wo  are  now  1,000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  .South  Pass  ir 


(1844 

cy,  wlinyestcrrlay  inorn 
o  ascend  a  liigher  peak 
fatigued.     They  con- 
ad    alraady  seen.     Two 
in  tlie  afternoon  ;  and 
[ued,  I  gave  them  all  lea 
clonds  began  to  rise  in 
ipprehensive  of  a  storm, 
oy  our  road,  I  sent  the 
Fitzpatrick,  with  direc- 
e  animals  in  the  morning. 
Mr.  Preuss,  Mr.  Talbot, 
Tacob. 

camp,   by  the   boiling 

nring  the  night  the  weath- 

nd  rising  to  a  gale,  and 
low  before  daylight ;  be- 

trail  was  covered.  We 
:amp  all  day,  in  the  course 
Bather  improved.  Foui 
Dward  evening,  with  the 
n.     We  suffer  much  from 

and  all  the  men  are  be- 

msufficient  food. 
-Taplin    was    sent    bach 

0  assist  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  ; 
with  three  sleighs  carry- 

laggage,  we  had  the  satis- 

within  two   and   a   half 

of  the  hollow,  and  at  the 

iountain  ridge.     Here  two 

een  set  on  fire,  and  in  the 

1  snow   had   been    melted 
comfortable  camp. 

;  the  air  filled  with  snow 
the  sky  was  very  dark  in 
angh  elsewhere  very  clear. 

has  <.  noble  appearane  : : 
s  abundant ;  its  frrealest 
)  feet,  and  ctrcumlerence 
r  feet  above  the  ground  ; 
)r  the  first  time  the  white 
liere  are  some  magnilicent 

spruce  is  among  the  tim- 
as  large  as  8  feet  in  diam- 
ve  the  ground  ;  but.  in  as- 
s  rapidly  to  less  than  one 
it  of  80   feet.     I  have  not 

than  .30  feet,  and  the 
is  frequently  broken  off  hy 
white  spruce  is  frequent : 
J,  {pinux  Colorado  of  the 
1  constitutes  the  beautiful 
flanks  of  the  Sierra  Neva- 
rard,  is  here  the  principal 
I  a  greater  liemht  than  140 
I  sometimes  a  diameter  of 
(se  trees  appeared  to  differ 
16  of  the  same  kind  on  the 
continent. 

»f  the  camp,  by  the  boiling 
feet.  We  are  now  1,000 
svel  of  the  South  Pass  ir 


8«ri 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARR.VTIVE. 


141 


the  Rocky  ninuntains  ;  and  still  we  are  not 
done  ascending.  'I'hc  top  of  a  flat  ridge 
near  was  bare  of  snow,  and  very  well 
sprinkled  with  bunch  grass,  sufficient  to  pas- 
lure  the  animals  two  or  three  days ;  and 
this  wia  to  be  their  main  point  of  support. 
This  ridge  is  composed  of  a  compact  trap, 
or  basalt,  of  a  columnar  structure  ;  over  the 
surface  are  scattered  large  boulders  of  po- 
rous trap.  The  hills  are  in  many  places  en- 
tirely covered  with  small  fiRgments  of  vol- 
canic rock. 

Putting  on  our  snow  shoes,  wc  spent  the 
afternoon  in  exploring  a  road  ahead.  The 
glare  of  the  snow,  combined  with  great  fa- 
tigue, had  rendered  many  of  the  people  near- 
ly blind  ;  but  we  were  fortunate  in  having 
some  black  silk  handkerchief's,  which,  worn 
as  veils,  very  much  relieved  the  eye. 

February  11. — High  wind  continued,  and 
our  trail  this  morning  was  nearly  inTisible — 
here  and  there  indicated  by  a  little  ridge  of 
snow.  Our  situation  became  tiresome  and 
dreary,  requiring  a  strong  exercise  of  pa- 
tience and  rcr-olution. 

In  the  evening  I  received  a  message  from 
Mr.  Fitzpiitrick,  acquainting  me  with  the 
Uter  failure  of  his  attempt  to  get  our  mules 
lad  horses  ov(  r  the  snow — the  half-hidden 
trail  had  [iroved  entirely  too  slight  to  sup- 
port them,  and  they  had  broken  through, 
and  were  plunging  about  or  lyins  half  buried 
in  snow.  He  was  occupied  in  endeavoring 
to  get  them  back  to  his  camp  ;  and  in  the 
mean  time  sent  to  me  for  further  instruc- 
tions. I  wrote  to  him  to  send  the  animals 
immediately  back  to  their  old  pastures  ;  and, 
alter  having  made  mauls  and  shovels,  turn 
in  all  the  strength  of  his  party  to  open  and 
beat  a  road  through  the  snow,  strengthening 
It  with  branches  and  boughs  of  the  pmes. 

February  12. — We  made  mauls,-  and 
worked  hard  at  our  end  of  the  road  all  the 
day.  The  wind  was  high,  but  the  sun  bright, 
and  the  snow  thawing.  We  worked  down 
the  face  of  ihe  hill,  to  meet  the  people  at 
the  other  end.  Towards  sundown  it  began 
lo  grow  cold,  and  we  shouldered  our  mauls, 
and  trudged  back  to  camp. 

February  13. — We  continued  to  labor  on 
ilie  road ;  and  in  the  course  of  the  day  had 
uie  satisfaction  to  see  the  people  working 
down  the  face  of  the  opposite  hill,  about 
three  miles  distant.  During  the  morning 
we  had  the  pleasure  of  a  visit  from  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick,  with  the  information  that  all 
was  going  on  well.  A  party  of  Indians  had 
patwed  on  snow  shoes,  who  said  they  were 
Siumg  to  the  western  side  of  the  mountain 
after  fich.  This  was  an  indication  that  the 
salmon  were  coming  up  the  streams ;  and 
we  could  harrlly  restrain  our  impatience  as 
wt"  thought  of  them,  and  worked  with  in- 
creBMd  vigor. 


The  meat  train  did  not  arrive  this  evening, 
and  I  gave  Godoy  leave  to  kill  our  little  dog, 
(Tlamath,)  which  he  prejiared  in  Indian 
fashion  ;  scorching  off  the  hair,  and  wash- 
ing tlie  akin  with  soap  and  .snow,  and  then 
cutting  it  up  into  pieces,  which  were  laid 
on  the  snow.  Shortly  aftervvards,  the  sleigh 
arrived  with  a  supply  of  horse  ino;it ;  and 
we  had  to-night  an  extraordinary  dinner — 
pea-soup,  mule,  and  dog. 

February  14. — The  dividing  ridge  of  the 
Sierra  is  in  sight  from  this  encampment. 
Accompanied  by  Mr.  Preuss,  I  ascended  to- 
day the  highest  peak  to  ilio  rijiht ;  from 
which  we  had  a  beautiful  view  oi  a  moun- 
tain lake  at  our  feet,  about  fifteen  miles  in 
length,  and  so  entirely  surrounded  by  moun- 
tains that  we  could  not  discover  an  outlet. 
We  had  taken  with  us  a  glass  ;  but,  though 
we  enjoyed  an  extended  view,  the  valley  was 
half  hidden  in  mist,  as  when  we  had  seen  it 
before.  Snow  could  be  distinguished  on  the 
higher  parts  of  the  coast  mountains  ;  east- 
ward, as  far  as  the  eye  could  extend,  it 
ranged  over  a  terrible  mass  of  broken  snowy 
mountains,  fading  off  blue  in  the  distance. 
The  rock  composing  the  summit  consists  of 
a  very  coarse,  dark,  volcanic  conglomerate  ; 
the  lower  parts  appeared  to  be  of  a  slaty 
structure.  The  bigh'^st  trees  were  a  few 
scattering  cedars  and  aspens.  From  the 
immediate  foot  of  the  peak,  we  were  two 
hours  in  reaching  the  summit,  and  one  hour 
and  a  quarter  in  descending.  The  day  had 
been  very  bright,  still,  and  clear,  and  spring 
seems  to  be  advancing  rapidly.  While 
the  sun  is  in  the  sky,  the  snow  melts  rapid- 
ly, and  gushing  springs  cover  the  face  ot 
the  moi  iitain  in  all  the  exposed  places  ;  bu 
their  surface  freezes  instantly  with  the  dis- 
appearance of  the  sun. 

I  obtained  to-night  some  observations ;  anc 
the  result  from  these,  and  other?  made  dar- 
ing our  stay,  gives  for  the  latitade  38'  41' 
57",  longitude  120°  25'  67",  and  rate  of  the 
chronometer  25".82. 

February  16. — We  had  succeeded  in  get- 
ting our  animals  safely  to  the  first  grassy 
hill ;  and  this  morning  I  started  with  Jacob 
on  a  reconnoitring  expedition  beyond  the 
mountain.  We  travelled  along  the  ('Tests  of 
narrow  ridges,  extending  down  from  the 
mountain  in  the  direction  of  the  valley,  from 
which  the  snow  was  fast  melting  away.  On 
the  open  spots  was  tolerably  good  grass  ;  and 
I  judged  we  should  succeed  in  getting  tiie 
camp  down  by  way  of  these.  Towards  sun- 
down we  discovered  some  icy  spots  in  a  deep 
hollow ;  and,  descending  the  mountain,  we 
encamped  on  the  head  water  of  a  little  creek, 
where  at  last  tlie  water  found  its  way  to  the 
Pacific. 

The  night  was  clear  and  very  long.  We 
heard  the  cries  cf  some  wild  animals,  whicit 


I) 


;   t 


144 


CAl'T    FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1844 


\'f 


m 


!"i'M 


pi 


tiad  been  attracted  by  our  fire,  and  a  flock  of 
geese  paused  over  during;  the  night.  Even 
these  Htraiifro  sounds  had  something  pleasant 
to  our  sensca  in  this  region  of  silence  and 
desolation. 

We  started  again  early  in  the  morning. 
The  creek  acquired  a  regular  breadth  of 
about  20  feet,  and  we  soon  began  to  hear  the 
rushing  of  thp  water  below  thn  ice  surface, 
over  which  wo  travelled  to  avoid  the  snow  ; 
a  few  miles  below  we  broke  through,  where 
the  water  was  several  feet  deep,  and  halted 
to  make  a  fire  and  dry  our  clothes.  Wo 
continued  a  few  miles  farther,  walking  being 
very  laborious  without  snow  shoes. 

1  was  now  perfectly  satisfied  that  we  had 
struck  the  stream  on  which  Mr.  Sutter  lived ; 
and,  turning  about,  made  a  hard  push,  and 
reached  the  camp  at  dark.  Here  we  had  the 
pleasure  to  find  all  the  remaining  animals, 
67  in  number,  safely  arrived  at  the  grassy 
hill  near  the  camp ;  and  here,  also,  we  were 
agreeably  surprised  with  the  sight  of  an 
abundance  of  salt.  Some  of  the  horse  guard 
had  gone  to  a  neighboring  hut  for  pine  nuts, 
and  discovered  unexpectedly  a  largo  cake  of 
very  white  fine-grained  salt,  which  the  Indi> 
ans  told  them  they  had  brought  from  the 
other  side  of  the  mountain ;  they  used  it  to 
eat  with  their  pine  nuts,  and  readily  sold  it 
for  goods. 

On  the  19th,  the  people  were  occupied  in 
making  a  road  and  bringing  up  the  baggage; 
and,  on  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  Feb- 
ruary 20,  18(4  we  encamped  with  the  ani- 
mals and  all  the  materiel  of  the  camp,  on  the 
summit  of  the  Pass  in  the  dividing  ridge, 
1,000  mile*^  by  our  travelled  road  from  the 
Dalles  of  th*-  Columbia. 

The  peopl*.  who  had  not  yet  been  to  this 
point,  climbed  th*  neighboring  peak  to  enjoy 
a  look  at  the  valley. 

The  temperature  of  boiling  water  gave  for 
the  elevation  »»f  the  encampment  9,338  feet 
above  the  sea. 

This  WiM,  •2/)00  feet  higher  than  the  South 
ffJHB  in  tln^  Rocky  moun'ains,  and  several 
■MIh  in  view  rose  several  thousand  feet  still 
kigher'.  Thus,  at  the  extremity  of  the  conti- 
nent, and  near  the  coast,  the  phenomenon 
was  seen  of  a  range  of  moimtains  still  higher 
than  i'le  gre^t  R«cky  mountains  themselves. 
Th;<  xtrac  .inary  fact  accounts  for  the 
Grea'  dasin,  and  shows  that  there  must  be 
a  sy^'em  of  small  lakes  si''  vers  here  scat- 
ter ver  i.  fiat  country,  aim  which  the  ex- 
tenaed  and  lofty  range  of  the  Sierra  Nevada 
prevents  from  escaping  to  the  Pacific  ocean. 
Latitude  38°  44';  longitude  120°  28'. 

Thus  the  Pass  iu  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
which  so  well  deserves  its  name  of  Snowy 
mountain,  is  eleven  degrees  west  and  about 
Vur  degrees  south  of  the  South  Pas>s. 

Ftbrxiary  21. — We  now  ccaisidered  our- 


selves victorious  over  the  nionntain  -,  having 
only  the  descent  before  us,  and  the  valloy 
under  our  eyes,  wo  felt  strong  hope  that  we 
should  force  our  way  down.  But  this  ivasa 
case  in  which  the  descent  was  wit  facile. 
Still  deep  fioldsi  <>f  snow  lay  between,  and 
there  was  a  large  intervening  space  of  rough- 
looking  mountains,  through  which  we  had 
yet  to  wind  our  way.  Carson  roused  me 
this  morning  with  an  early  firo,  and  we  were 
all  up  long  before  day,  in  order  to  pass  the 
snow  fields  before  the  sun  should  render  the 
crust  soft.  We  enjoyed  this  morning  a  scene 
at  sunrise,  which  even  here  was  unusually  glo- 
rious and  beautiful.  Immediately  above  the 
eastern  mountains  was  rejwated  a  cloud- 
formed  mass  of  purple  ranges,  bordered  with 
bright  yellow  gold ;  the  peaks  shot  up  into  a 
narrow  lino  of  crimson  cloud,  above  which 
the  air  was  filled  with  a  greenish  orange ; 
and  over  all  was  the  singular  beauty  of  the 
blue  sky.  Passing  along  a  ridge  which 
commanded  the  lake  on  our  right,  of  which 
we  began  to  discover  an  outlet  through  a 
chasm  on  the  west,  we  passed  over  alternat- 
ing open  ground  and  hard-crusted  snow 
fields  which  supported  the  animals,  and  en- 
camped on  the  ridge  after  a  journey  of  six 
miles.  The  grass  was  better  than  we  had 
yet  seen,  and  we  were  encamped  in  a  clump 
of  trees  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high,  resembling 
white  pine.  With  the  exception  of  these 
small  clumps,  the  ridges  were  bare;  and, 
where  the  snow  found  the  support  of  the 
trees,  the  wind  had  blown  it  up  into  banks 
ten  or  fifteen  feet  high.  It  required  much 
care  to  hunt  out  a  practicable  way,  as  the 
most  open  places  frequently  led  to  impassa- 
ble banks. 

We  had  hard  and  doubtful  labor  yet  be- 
fore us,  as  the  snow  appeared  to  be  heavier 
where  the  timber  began  further  down,  with 
few  open  spots.  Ascending  a  height,  we 
traced  out  the  best  line  we  could  discover 
for  the  next  day's  march,  and  had  at  least 
the  consolation  to  see  that  the  mountain  de- 
scended rapidly.  The  day  had  been  one  of 
April ;  gusty,  with  a  few  occasional  flakes  of 
snow ;  which,  in  the  aflernoon,  enveloped  the 
upper  mountain  in  clouds.  We  watched 
tliom  anxiously,  as  now  we  dreaded  a  snow 
storm.  Shortly  afterwards  we  heard  the  roll 
of  thiinder,  and,  looking  towards  the  valley, 
found  it  all  enveloped  in  a  thunder-storm. 
For  OS,  as  connected  with  the  idea  of  sum- 
meir.  it  had  a  singular  charm ;  and  we 
watciied  its  progress  with  excited  feelings 
until  nearly  sunset,  when  the  sky  cleared  off 
bri?bdy,  and  we  saw  a  shining  line  of  water 
directing  its  course  towards  another,  a  broad- 
er and  larger  sheet.  We  knew  that  these 
could  oe  no  other  than  the  Sacramento  and 
the  bay  of  San  Francisco  ;  but,  after  our  long 
wandering  in  rugged  mountains,  where  m 


|!^- 


[1844 

over  llifl  nioimtaln-,  having 
,  heforo  lis,  and  the  valloy 
ve  felt  HtrDiig  liope  that  we 
way  down.  But  this  was  a 
he  descent  was  not  facile. 

of  Biinw  lay  between,  and 
)  intervening  spiice  of  rough, 
na,  through  which  we  had 

way.  Cart-on  roused  me 
h  an  early  fire,  and  we  were 
e  day,  in  order  to  pass  the 
e  the  sun  slioiild  render  the 
enjoyed  tliis  morning  a  scene 
even  here  was  nnupually  glo- 
ul.  Immediately  above  the 
na  was  repeated  a  cloud- 
)urple  ranges,  bordered  with 
Id ;  the  peaks  shot  up  into  a 
rimson  cloud,  above  which 

1  with  a  greenish  orange; 

the  singular  beauty  of  the 
sing  along  a  ridge  which 
lake  on  our  right,  of  which 
8Cov€r  an  outlet  through  a 
est,  we  passed  over  alternat- 
nd  and  hard-crusted  snow 
iported  the  animals,  and  en- 
ridie  after  a  journey  of  six 
USB  was  better  than  we  had 
e  were  encamped  in  a  clump 
or  thirty  feet  high,  resembling 
Vith  the  exception  of  these 
the  ridges  were  bare;  and, 
)w  found  the  support  of  the 
had  blown  it  up  into  banks 
jet  high.  It  required  much 
it  a  practicable  way,  as  the 
es  frequently  led  to  impassa- 

i  and  doubtful  labor  vet  be- 
anow  appeared  to  be  heavier 
ler  began  further  down,  with 
;a.    Ascending  a  height,  we 

best  line  we  could  discover 
ly's  march,  and  had  at  least 
I  to  see  that  the  mountain  de- 
f.  The  day  had  been  one  of 
vith  a  few  occasional  flakes  of 
in  the  afternoon,  enveloped  the 
in  in  clouds.  We  watched 
f,  as  now  we  dreaded  a  snow 
y  afterwards  wc  heard  the  roU 
i,  looking  towards  the  valley, 
nveloped  in  a  thunder-storm, 
nected  with  the  idea  of  sum- 
a  singular  charm;  and  we 
rogresa  with  excited  feelings 
inset,  when  the  sky  cleared  off 
ve  saw  a  shining  line  of  watei 
jurse  towards  another,  a  broad- 
sheet. We  knew  that  these 
her  than  the  Sacramento  and 
1  Francisco ;  but,  after  our  long 

rugged  mountains,  where  m 


1844.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


m 


frequently  wo  had  mot  with  disappointments, 
and  where  the  crossing  of  every  ridge  dis- 
played some  unknown  lake  or  river,  we  wore 
yet  almost  afraid  to  believe  that  we  were  at 
last  to  escape  info  the  genial  country  of 
which  we  had  heard  so  many  glowing  de- 
Bcriptiona,  and  dre.'idcd  again  to  find  some 
vast  interior  lake,  whose  bitter  waters  would 
bring  us  disappointment.  On  the  southern 
shore  of  what  appeared  fo  be  the  bay  could 
bo  triiced  the  gleaming  line  where  entered 
another  large  stream ;  and  again  the  Buena- 
ventura rose  up  in  our  minds. 

Carson  had  entered  the  valley  along  the 
southern  side  of  the  bay,  and  remembered 
perfectly  to  have  crossed  the  mouth  of  a  very 
large  stream,  which  they  had  been  obliged 
to  raft ;  but  tiie  country  then  was  so  en- 
tirely covered  with  water  from  snow  and 
raini  that  he  had  been  able  to  form  no  cor- 
rect impression  of  watercourses. 

We  had  the  satisfaction  to  know  that  at 
least  there  were  people  below.  Fires  were 
lit  up  in  the  valley  just  at  night,  appearing 
to  be  in  answer  to  ours ;  and  these  signs  of 
life  renewed,  in  some  measure,  the  gaiety 
of  the  camp.  They  appeared  so  near,  that 
we  judged  them  to  be  among  the  timber  of 
some  of  the  neighboring  ridges ;  but,  having 
them  constantly  in  view  day  after  day,  and 
night  after  night,  wc  afterwards  found  them 
to  be  fires  that  had  been  kindled  by  the  Indi- 
ans among  the  tulares,  on  tlie  shore  of  the 
bay,  80  miles  distant. 

Among  the  very  few  plants  that  appeared 
here,  was  the  common  blue  flax.  To-night, 
a  mule  was  killed  for  food. 

February  'J2. — Our  breakfast  was  over 
long  before  day.  We  took  advantage  of  tiie 
coolness  of  tlie  early  morning  to  get  over 
the  snow,  which  to-day  occurred  in  very 
deep  banks  among  the  timber;  but  we 
searched  out  the  coldest  places,  and  the  ani- 
mals passed  successfully  with  their  loads 
the  hard  crust.  Now  and  then,  the  delay 
of  making  a  road  occasioned  much  labor 
and  loss  of  time.  In  the  after  part  of  the 
day,  we  saw  before  us  a  handsome  grassy 
riuge  point ;  and,  making  a  desperate  push 
over  a  snow  field  10  to  15  feet  deep,  we 
happily  succeeded  in  getting  the  camp 
across ;  and  encamped  on  the  ridge,  after  a 
march  of  three  miles.  We  had  again  the 
prospect  of  a  thunder-storm  below,  and  to- 
night we  killed  another  mule — now  our  only 
resource  from  starvation. 

We  satisfied  ourselves  during  the  day 
that  the  lake  had  an  outlet  between  two 
laugea  on  the  right;  and  with  this,  the 
creek  on  wliioh  I  had  encamped  probably 
effected  a  junction  below.  Between  these, 
we  were  descending. 

We  continued  to  enjoy  the  same  delightful 
weather;  the  skv  of  the  same  beautiful  blue, 

10 


and  such  a  sunset  and  sunrise  as  on  our 
Atlantic  coast  we  could  scarcely  imagine. 
And  here  among  tho  inountaiuM,  9,000  feet 
aliovo  the  sea,  we  have  the  dcnn-bluo  sky 
and  sunny  climate  of  Smyrna  and  Palermo, 
which  a  liitlo  map  before  me  shows  are  in 
the  same  latitude. 

The  elevation  above  the  sea,  by  tho  boiling 
point,  is  8,565  feet. 

Frbrnanj  !i3. — This  was  our  most  difficult 
day ;  we  were  forced  ofT  the  ridges  by  the 
quantity  of  snow  among  tho  timber,  and 
obliged  to  take  to  the  mountain  sides,  where 
occasionally,  rocks  and  a  southern  exposure 
afTorded  us  a  chance  to  scramble  along.  But 
these  were  steep,  and  slippery  with  snow 
and  ice ;  and  the  tough  evergreens  of  the 
mountain  impeded  our  way,  tore  our  skins, 
and  exhausted  our  patience.  Some  of  us 
had  the  misfortune  to  wear  mocassins  with 
varjleche  soles,  so  slippery  that  wo  could  not 
Keep  otir  feet,  and  generally  crawled  across 
the  snow  beds.  Axes  and  mnuls  were  ne- 
cessary to-day,  to  make  a  road  through  the 
snow.  Going  ahead  with  Carson  to  re- 
connoitre the  road,  we  reached  in  the  after- 
noon the  river  which  made  the  outlet  of  the 
lake.  Carson  sprang  over,  clear  across  a 
place  whore  the  stream  was  compressed 
among  rocks,  but  the  parjkche  sole  of  my 
mocassin  glanced  from  the  icy  rock,  and 
precipitated  me  into  the  river.  It  was  some 
few  seconds  before  I  could  recover  myself 
in  the  current,  and  Carson,  thinking  me  hurt, 
jumped  in  after  me,  and  we  both  had  an  icy 
bath.  We  tried  to  search  a  while  for  my 
gun,  which  had  been  lost  in  the  fall,  but  the 
cold  drove  us  out ;  and  making  a  large  fire 
on  the  bank,  after  wo  had  partially  dried 
ourselves  we  went  back  to  meet  the  camp. 
We  afterwards  found  that  the  gun  had  been 
slung  under  the  ice  which  lined  tho  banks 
of  the  creek. 

Using  our  old  plan  of  breaking  the  road 
with  alternate  horses,  we  reached  the  creek 
in  the  evening,  and  encamped  on  a  dry  open 
place  in  the  ravine. 

Another  branch,  which  we  had  followed, 
here  comes  in  on  the  left  ;  and  from  this 
point  the  mountain  wall,  on  which  we  had 
travelled  to-day,  faces  to  the  south  along  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  where  the  sun  ap- 
pears to  have  melted  the  snow ;  but  the  op- 
posite ridge  is  entirely  covered.  Here,  among 
the  pines,  the  hill  side  produces  but  little 
grass — barely  sufficient  to  keep  life  in  the 
animals.  '.Ve  had  the  pleasure  to  be  rained 
upon  this  afternoon  ;  and  grass  was  now  our 
greatest  solicitude.  Many  of  the  men  looked 
badly ;  and  some  this  evening  were  giving 
out. 

Februarif  24. — We  rose  at  three  in  tlie 
morning,  for  an  astronomical  observation, 
and  obtained  for  the  place  a  latitude  of  38' 


,90 


^i'ik 


;  liit 


5fl 


:.KJ 


il^ 


141 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


(2844. 


i)V  ;  longitude  120°  31'  20".    The  Bky 
rienr   and    pure,   with  a  sharp  wind 


46 

was   rIenr   and    pure,   witli  a 

from  the  northeast,  and  the  tiiermoinotcr  '2 

below  the  freezing  point. 

We  continued  down  the  aoiith  face  of  the 
mountain  ;  our  road  leading  over  dry  ground, 
we  were  able  to  avoid  the  snow  almost  en- 
tirely. In  the  course  of  the  morning,  wo 
struck  a  fcwt  path,  which  we  were  generally 
able  to  koL-p ;  and  the  ground  was  soft  to 
our  animals'  feet,  being  sandy  or  covered 
with  mould.  Green  grass  began  to  make 
its  appearance,  and  occasionally  we  passed 
a  iiilt  scatteringly  covered  with  it.  The 
rliaracter  of  the  forest  continued  the  aame  ; 
p.nd,  amonrr  tlie  trees,  the  pine  with  sharp 
leaves  anil  very  large  cones  was  abundant, 
some  of  them  being  noble  trees.  We  mea- 
sured one  that  had  10  feet  diameter,  though 
the  height  was  not  more  than  130  feet.  All 
along,  the  river  was  a  roaring  torrent,  its 
fall  very  great:  and,  descending  with  a 
rapidity  to  which  we  had  l<<ng  been 
strangers,  to  our  great  pleasure  aK  trees 
appeared  on  the  ridge,  and  soon  became  very 
frequent ;  on  these  I  remarked  unusually 
great  quantities  of  misletoe.  Rushes  began 
to  make  their  appearance  ;  and  at  a  small 
creek  where  they  were  abundant,  one  of  the 
messes  was  left  with  the  weakest  horses, 
while  we  continued  on. 

The  opposite  mountain  side  was  very 
steep  and  continuous — unbroken  by  ravines, 
and  covered  with  pines  and  snow ;  while  on 
the  side  we  were  travelling,  innumerable 
rivulets  poured  down  from  the  ridge.  Con- 
tinuing on,  we  halted  a  moment  at  one  of 
these  rivulets,  to  admire  some  beautiful  ever- 
green trees,  resembling  live  oak,  which 
shaded  the  little  stream.  They  were  forty 
to  fifty  feet  high,  and  two  in  diameter,  with 
a  uniform  tui^  top ;  and  the  summer  green 
of  their  beautiful  foliage,  with  the  singing 
birds,  and  the  sweet  summer  wind  which 
was  whirling  about  the  dry  oak  leaves,  nearly 
intoxicated  us  with  delight ;  and  we  hurried 
on,  filled  with  excitement,  to  escape  entirely 
from  the  horrid  region  of  inhospitable  snow, 
to  the  perpetual  spring  of  the  Sacramento. 

When  we  had  travelled  about  ten  miles, 
the  valley  opened  a  little  to  an  oak  and  pine 
bottom,  through  which  ran  rivulets  closely 
bordered  with  rushes,  on  which  our  half- 
starved  horses  fell  v/ith  avidity;  and  here 
we  made  our  encampment.  Here  the  roar- 
ing torrent  has  already  become  a  river,  and 
we  had  descended  to  an  elevation  of  3,864 
feet. 

Along  our  road  to-day  the  rock  was  a 
white  granite,  which  appears  to  constitute 
the  upper  part  of  the  mountains  on  both  the 
•astern  and  western  slopes ;  while  between, 
Jie  central  is  a  volcanic  rock. 

Another  horse  wa»  billed  to-night,  for  food. 


February  25. — Bolioving  that  the  diffi. 
(ultips  of  the  road  wore  passed,  and  leaving 
]klr.  Fitzpatrick  to  follow  slowly,  as  the  con- 
dition of  the  animals  required,  I  started 
ahead  this  morning  with  a  party  of  eight, 
c insisting  (with  myself)  of  Mr.  IVeuss  and 
Mr.  Talbot,  Carson,  Derosier.  Towns,  Proue, 
and  Jacob.  We  took  with  us  some  of  the 
best  animals,  and  my  intention  was  to  pro- 
ceed as  rapidly  as  possible  to  the  house  of 
Mr.  Sutter,  and  return  to  moot  the  party 
with  a  supply  of  provisions  and  fresh  ani- 
mals. 

Continuing  down  the  river,  which  pursued 
a  Very  direct  westerly  course  tlirougn  a  nar- 
row valley,  with  only  a  very  slight  and  nar- 
row bottom  land,  we  made  twelve  miles,  and 
encamped  at  some  old  Indian  huts,  apparent- 
ly a  fishing  place  on  the  river.  The  bottom 
was  covered  with  trees  of  deciduous  foliage, 
and  overgrown  with  vines  and  rushes.  On 
a  bench  of  the  hill  near  by,  was  a  field  of 
fresh  green  grass,  six  inches  long  in  some  ol 
the  tufts  which  I  had  the  curiosity  to  meas- 
ure. The  animals  were  driven  here ;  and  I 
spent  part  of  the  afternoon  sitting  on  a  large 
rock  among  them,  enjoying  the  pauseless  ra- 
pidity with  which  they  luxuriated  in  the  un- 
accustomed food. 

The  forest  was  imposing  to-day  in  the 
magnificence  of  the  trees ;  some  of  the 
pines,  bearing  large  cones,  were  10  feet  in 
diameter;  cedars  also  abounded,  and  we 
measured  one  28  j  feet  in  circumference,  four 
feet  from  the  ground.  This  noble  tree  seemed 
here  to  be  in  its  proper  soil  and  climate. 
We  found  it  on  botn  sides  of  the  Sierra,  but 
most  abundant  on  the  west. 

February  26.— We  continued  to  follow  the 
stream,  the  mountains  on  either  hand  in- 
creasing in  height  as  wo  descended,  and  shnt- 
ting  up  the  river  narrowly  in  precipices, 
along  which  we  had  great  difficulty  to  get 
our  horses. 

It  rained  hv»avily  during  the  afternoon,  and 
we  were  forced  oir  the  river  to  thp  heights 
above ;  whence  we  descended,  at  night-fall, 
the  point  of  a  spur  between  the  river  and  a 
fork  of  nearly  equal  size,  coming  in  from  the 
right.  Here  we  saw,  on  the  lower  hills,  the 
first  flowers  in  bloom,  which  occurred  sud- 
denly, and  in  considerable  quantity ;  one  of 
them  a  species  of  gilia. 

The  current  in  both  streams  (rather  tor- 
rents than  rivers)  was  l/roken  by  large  boul- 
ders. It  was  late,  and  the  animals  fatigued ; 
and  not  succeeding  to  find  a  ford  immediate- 
ly, we  encamped,  although  the  hill  side  af- 
forded but  a  few  stray  bunches  of  grass,  and 
the  horses,  standing  about  in  the  rain,  looked 
very  miserable. 

February  27. — We  succeeded  in  fording 
the  stream,  and  made  a  trail  by  which  wo 
crossed  the  point  of  tlM  ci>|Kisite  hill,  wLichi 


[3844. 

-Bnlioving  that  the  difli- 
J  worn  paRflcd,  and  leaving 
[)  follow  slowly,  as  the  con- 
iinals   required,  I   Btarted 
in|^  with  a  party  of  eight, 
nyself)  of  Mr.  l*TeuBs  and 
)n,  Derosier.  Towns,  Proue, 
took  with  uis  flomo  of  the 
my  intention  was  to  pro- 
possible  to  the  house  of 
return  to  meet  the  party 
provisions  and  fresh  am- 

wn  the  river,  which  nursued 
iterly  course  througn  a  nar- 
only  a  very  slipht  and  nar- 
,  WP  made  twelve  miles,  and 
leoid  Indian  huts.apparent- 
j  on  the  river.  The  bottom 
h  trees  of  deciduous  foliage, 
with  vines  and  rushes.  On 
hill  near  by,  was  a  field  of 
8,  six  inches  long  in  some  ot 
1  imd  the  curiosity  to  meae- 
al3  were  driven  here ;  and  I 
afternoon  sitting  on  a  large 
n,  enjoying  the  pauseless  ra- 
;h  they  luxuriated  in  the  un- 

vas  imposing  to-day  in  the 
f  the  trees;  some  of  the 
arge  cones,  were  10  feet  in 
Lrs  also  abounded,  and  we 
8j  feet  in  circumference,  four 
aund.  This  noble  tree  seemed 
its  proper  soil  and  climate, 
both  sides  of  the  Sierra,  but 
on  the  west. 

,— We  continued  to  follow  the 
>untains  on  either  hand  in- 
fht  as  wo  descended,  and  shnt- 
ver  narrowly  in  precipices, 
re  had  great  difficulty  to  gel 

vily  during  tlic  afternoon,  and 
!  o&  the  river  to  the  heights 
I  we  descended,  at  night-fall, 
jpur  between  the  river  and  a 
iqual  size,  coming  in  from  the 
'e  saw,  on  the  lower  hills,  the 
I  bloom,  which  occurred  sud' 
sonsiderable  quantity ;  one  of 
of  gilia. 

in  both  streams  (rather  tor- 
rs)  was  l»roken  by  large  bool- 
ate,  and  the  animals  fatigued; 
ding  to  find  a  ford  imrnadiate- 
ed,  although  the  hill  side  af- 
w  stray  bunches  of  grass,  and 
iding  about  in  the  rain,  looked 

'. — We  succeeded  in  fording 
id  made  a  trail  by  which  we 
int  of  tlM  oi))K)aite  kill,  wLich, 


lft44.] 


CA1>T.  FRKMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


IIT 


on  the  southern  exposure,  was  prettily  cover- 
ed with  green  gras!),  and  we  halted  a  mile  from 
oiir  last  encampment.  The  river  was  only 
about  sixty  feet  wide,  but  rapid,  and  occa- 
aionally  deep,  foaming  among  boulders,  and 
the  water  beautifully  clear.  Wo  encamped 
on  the  hill  slope,  ns  there  was  no  bottom 
level,  and  the  opposite  ridge  la  continuous, 
afTording  no  streams. 

We  had  with  us  a  large  kettle ;  and  a  mule 
being  killed  here,  his  head  was  boiled  in  it 
for  several  hours,  and  made  a  passable  soup 
for  famished  people. 

Below,  precipices  on  the  river  forced  us  to 
the  heights,  which  we  ascended  by  a  steep 
spur  2,000  feet  high.  My  favorite  horse, 
Proveau,  had  become  very  weak,  and  was 
scarcely  able  to  bring  himself  to  the  top. 
Travelling  here  was  good,  except  in  crossing 
the  ravines,  which  were  narrow,  steep,  and 
frequent.  We  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  deer, 
the  first  animal  we  had  seen ;  but  did  not 
succeed  in  approaching  him.  Proveau  could 
not  keep  up,  and  I  left  Jacob  to  bring  him  on, 
being  obliged  to  pres";  forward  with  the  par- 
ty, as  there  was  no  grass  in  the  forest.  We 
grew  very  anxious  as  the  day  advanced  and 
no  grass  appeared,  for  the  lives  of  our  ani- 
mals depended  on  finding  it  to-night.  They 
were  in  just  such  a  conditu  n  that  grass  and 
repose  for  the  night  enabled  them  to  get  on 
the  next  day.  Every  hour  we  had  been  ex- 
pecting to  see  open  out  before  us  the  valley, 
which,  from  the  mountain  above,  acemed  sil- 
most  at  our  feet,  A  new  and  singuk'  r  shrub, 
which  had  made  its  appearance  since  cross- 
ing the  mountain,  was  very  frequent  to-day. 
It  branched  out  near  the  ground,  forming-  a 
clump  eight  to  ten  feet  high,  with  pale-gratn 
leaves  of  an  oval  form,  and  the  body  and 
branches  had  a  naked  appearance,  as  if  strip- 
ped of  the  bark,  which  is  very  smooth  and 
thin,  of  a  chocolate  color,  contrasting  well 
with  the  pale  green  of  the  leaves.  Tlie  day 
was  nearly  gone ;  we  had  made  a  hard  day's 
march,  and  found  no  grass.  Towns  became 
light-headed,  wandering  off  into  the  woods 
without  knowing  where  he  was  going,  and 
Jacob  brought  him  back. 

Near  nignt-fall  we  descended  into  the  steep 
ravine  of  a  handsome  creek  thirty  feet  wide, 
and  I  was  engaged  in  getting  the  horsen  up 
the  opposite  mil,  when  I  heard  a  shout  from 
Carson,  who  had  gone  ahead  a  few  hundred 
yards — "  Life  yet,"  said  he,  as  he  came  up, 
"life  yet;  I  have  found  a  hill  side  sprinkled 
with  grass  enough  for  the  night."  We  drove 
along  our  horses,  and  encimped  at  tlie  place 
about  dark,  and  there  was  just  room  enough 
to  make  a  place  for  shelter  on  the  edge  of  the 
ttr?am.  Three  horses  were  lost  to-day — 
Proveau ;  a  fine  young  horse  from  the  Co- 
lumbia, belonging  to  Charles  Towns ;  and 
toother  Indian  horse  which  carried  our  cook- 


ing utensils  ;  the  two  former  gave  out,  and 
the  latter  BirayiHl  otV  into  tlio  woods  as  we 
reached  the  camp. 

February  '29. — We  lay  shut  up  in  the  nar* 
row  ravine,  and  gave  the  animalR  a  necessa- 
ry day ;  and  men  were  sent  back  alter  the 
others.  DeroHier  volunteercil  to  bring  up 
Proveau,  to  whom  he  knew  I  was  gri'utly  at- 
tached, as  he  had  been  my  favorite  hurse  on 
both  expeditions.  Carson  and  I  climbed  one 
of  the  nearest  mountains;  the  I'orcst  land 
still  extended  ahead,  and  the  valley  appeared 
as  fa»'  as  ever.  The  pack  horse  was  found 
near  the  camp,  but  Derosicr  did  not  got  in. 

March  1. — Derosier  did  not  get  in  during 
the  night,  and  leaving  him  tn  t'olluw,  as  no 
grass  remained  here,  we  continued  on  over 
the  uplands,  crossing  many  small  Btroams, 
and  camped  again  on  the  river,  having  made 
6  miles.  Here  we  found  the  hill  side  cover- 
ed (although  lightly)  with  fresh  green  grass ; 
and  from  this  time  forward  we  found  it  al- 
ways improving  and  abundant. 

We  made  a  pleasant  camp  on  the  river  hill, 
where  were  some  beautiful  specimens  of  the 
chocolate-colored  shrub,  which  were  a  foot  in 
diameter  near  the  ground,  and  fifteen  to  twen- 
ty feet  high.  The  opposite  ridge  runs  con- 
tinuously along,  unbroken  by  streams.  We 
are  rapidly  descending  into  the  spring,  and 
we  are  leaving  our  snowy  region  far  behind ; 
everything  is  getting  green  ;  butterflies  are 
swarming;  numerous  bugs  are  creeping  out, 
wakened  from  their  winter's  sleep  ;  and  the 
forest  flowers  are  coming  into  bloom.  Among 
those  which  appeared  most  numerously  to- 
day was  dodecalheon  dentatum. 

We  began  to  be  uneasy  at  Derosier's  ab- 
sence, fearing  he  might  have  been  bewilder- 
ed in  the  wwxis.  Charles  Towns,  who  had 
not  yet  recovered  his  mind,  went  to  swim  in 
the  river,  as  if  it  were  summer,  and  the 
stream  placid,  when  it  was  a  cold  mountain 
torrent  foaming  among  rocks.  We  were 
happy  to  see  Derosier  appear  in  the  evening, 
He  came  in,  and,  sitting  down  by  the  fire, 
began  to  tell  us  where  he  had  been.  He 
imagined  he  had  been  gone  several  days,  and 
thought  we  were  still  at  the  camp  where  he 
had  left  us ;  and  we  were  pained  to  see  that 
his  mind  was  deranged.  It  appeared  that  he 
had  been  lost  in  the  mountain,  and  hunger 
and  fatigue,  joined  to  weakness  of  body,  and 
fear  of  perishing  in  the  mountains,  had 
crazed  hiiu.  The  times  were  severe  when 
stout  men  lost  their  minds  from  extremity  of 
suffering  —  when  horses  died  —  and  when 
mules  and  horses,  ready  to  die  of  starvation, 
were  killed  for  food.  Yet  there  was  no  mur- 
muring or  hesitation. 

A  short  distance  below  our  encampment 
the  river  mountains  terminated  in  precipices, 
and,  after  a  fatiguing  march  of  only  a  few 
miles,  we  encamped  on  a  bench  where  thora 


■i.! 


t. 


mm 


v/ 


0 


ii'i 


8^S 


US 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVK. 


1 1844 


;  f"  -IS- 


w*»re  spring  and  an  ahiiiiiliuico  of  tho  frc«h- 
est  ^riin^.  Ill  llm  moiintii'ii',  Mr.  ProiiKg 
cnnliriiifd  on  down  llic  rivor,  anti,  unaware 
that  wo  liiid  emamped  mo  early  in  tlio  day, 
WHS  lo<<t.  When  iii^rht  firrivcd,  and  ho  did 
H'lt  come  in,  wo  licpui  to  iindcrgtniul  wliat 
had  happtMied  to  him  ;  but  it  was  too  late  to 
make  any  search. 

March  3. — We  followed  Mr.  Proues's  trail 
for  a  coHPiderable  diitanco  alonp  the  river, 
until  we  reached  a  phico  where  ho  had  dn- 
unended  to  the  stream  telow  and  encamped. 
Here  we  shoiitod  and  tirfd  guns,  but  received 
no  auHWor ;  and  we  confiiidt'd  that  he  had 
pushed  on  down  tho  stream.  I  determined 
to  keep  out  from  tho  river,  alonff  which  it 
was  nearly  imprarti''iible  to  travel  with  ani- 
mals, until  it  should  lorm  a  valley.  At  every 
step  the  country  imnroved  in  beauty;  the 
pines  were  rapidly  disappearing,  and  oaks 
became  tho  principal  trees  of  the  forest. 
Among  these,  tho  prevailing  tree  was  the 
OTorijrecn  oak  (which,  by  way  of  distinction, 
we  shall  call  the  live  oak) ;  and  with  these, 
occurred  frequently  a  new  species  of  oak 
beariniT  a  long  slender  acorn,  from  an  inch  to 
an  inch  and  a  half  in  length,  which  we  now 
began  to  see  formed  the  prim  i|i,il  vegetable 
food  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  region.  In  a 
short  distance  we  crossed  a  little  rivulet, 
where  were  two  old  huts,  and  near  by  were 
heaps  of  acorn  hulls.  The  ground  round 
about  was  very  rich,  covered  with  an  exube- 
rant Rward  of  grass ;  and  we  sat  down  for  a 
while  in  the  shade  of  the  oaks,  to  let  the  ani- 
vnuls  foed.  We  repeated  onr  shouts  for  Mr. 
F'euss ;  and  this  time  we  were  gratified  with 
ail  answer.  The  voice  grew  rapidly  nearer, 
ascending  from  the  river ;  but  when  we  ex- 
pected to  see  him  emerge,  it  ceased  entirely. 
We  had  called  up  some  straggling  Indian — 
the  first  we  had  met,  although  for  two  days 
back  we  had  seen  tracks — who,  mistaking 
MB  for  his  fellows,  had  been  only  undeceived 
on  getting  close  up.  It  would  have  been 
pleasant  to  witness  his  astonishment;  he 
would  not  have  been  more  frightened  had 
some  of  the  old  mountain  spirit-^  they  are  so 
much  afraid  of  suddenly  appeared  in  his  path. 
Ignorant  of  the  character  of  these  people, 
we  had  now  ar*  additional  cause  of  uneasi- 
ness in  regard  to  Mr.  Preuss;  ho  had  no 
arms  with  him,  and  we  began  to  think  his 
chance  doubtful.  We  followed  on  a  trail, 
still  keeping  out  from  the  river,  and  descend- 
ed to  a  very  large  creek,  dashing  with  great 
velocity  over  a  pre-eminently  rocky  becT  and 
%mong  large  boulders.  The  bed  had  sudden 
breaks,  formed  by  deep  holes  and  ledges  of 
rock  running  across.  Even  here,  it  deserves 
the  name  of  Rock  creek,  which  we  gave  to  it. 
We  succeeded  in  fording  it,  and  toiled  about 
three  thousand  feet  up  the  opposite  hill.  The 
Btonntains  now  were  getting  sensibly  lower ; 


hut  still  there  is  no  valley  on  tin'  river,  which 
presents  steep  and  rocky  banks  ;  b'll  here, 
several  inilos  from  tin;  river,  (.Iiimiou of ry  ia 
smooth  aiii  lawsy ;  the  foresi,  liac  no  iitider- 
growth  ;  ami  in  tho  open  valleys  d  riviiletj, 
or  urnuri'l  spring  heads,  the  low  ;,'roves  of 
live  ocV.  rrive  tho  appearance  of  orcliards  in 
un  olit  ch  livated  country.  OccanitniaJly  wii 
met  do"  •,  i<ut  lind  not  the  neconsary  time  for 
hunting.  At  one  of  these  orchard  groumi*, 
we  encamped  about  noon  to  iniike  an  effort 
for  Mr.  I'nuss.  One  man  took  his  way 
along  a  spur  leading  into  the  river,  in  hopo 
to  cross  his  trail ;  and  another  took  our  own 
buck.  Doth  were  voluntrorN ;  and  to  tlic 
successful  man  was  promised  a  pair  of  pis- 
tols— not  as  a  reward,  but  as  a  token  of  gra- 
titude for  a  service  which  would  free  us  all 
from  much  anxiety. 

We  had  among  our  few  animals  a  horse 
which  was  so  much  reduced,  that,  with  trav- 
elling, even  the  good  grass  could  not  save 
him;  and,  having  nothing  to  eat,  ho  was 
killed  this  afternoon.  Ilew^^sa  good  nnl- 
mal,  and  had  made  the  jouriu-y  round  tri^m 
Fort  Hall. 

DodecaOieon  tkntalum  continued  the  cha- 
racterititic  plant  inllowcr;  and  the  naked- 
looking  shrub  already  mentioned  continued 
characteristic,  beginning  to  put  forth  a  small 
white  blossom.  At  evening  the  men  re- 
turned, having  seen  or  heard  nothing  of  Mr. 
Preuss  ;  and  I  determined  to  make  a  hard 
push  down  the  river  the  next  morning,  and 
get  ahead  of  him. 

March  4. — We  continued  rapidly  along  on 
a  broad  plainly-beaten  trail,  the  mere  travel- 
ling and  breathing  tho  delightful  air  being  a 
positive  enjoyment.  Our  "-oad  led  along  a 
ridge  inclining  to  the  river,  and  the  air  and 
the  open  grounds  were  fragrant  with  flower- 
ing shrubs ;  and  in  the  course  of  the  morn- 
ing we  issued  on  an  open  spur,  by  which  we 
descended  directly  to  the  stream.  Here  the 
river  issues  suddenly  from  the  mountains, 
which  hitherto  had  hemmed  it  closely  in: 
these  now  become  softer,  and  change  sensi- 
bly their  character;  and  at  this  point  com- 
mences the  most  beautiful  valley  in  which 
we  had  ever  travelled.  We  hurried  to  the 
river,  on  which  we  noticed  a  small  sand 
beach,  to  which  Mr.  Preuss  would  naturally 
have  gone.  We  found  no  trace  of  him,  but, 
instead,  were  recent  tracks  of  bare-footed 
Indians,  and  little  piles  of  muscle  shells,  and 
old  fires  where  they  had  roasted  the  fish. 
We  travelled  on  over  the  river  grounds, 
which  were  undulating,  and  covered  with 
grass  to  the  river  brink.  We  halted  to  noon 
a  few  miles  beyond,  always  under  the  shade 
of  the  evergreen  oaks,  which  formed  open 
groves  on  the  bottoms. 

Continuing  our  road  in  the  afternoon,  we 
ascended  to  the  uplands,  where  the  riv" 


T 


11844. 

o  vallny  on  ll .'  river,  which 
rocky  liai'k.'t ;    lnit  here, 
n  tlio  river,  'li"  (.'(/tutry  ig 
y  ;  tliL>  forrsl.  lm.«  no  miner. 
iR  op«n  valipyg  c    riviilefn, 
hcadf),  tJK!  low  jrroveH  of 
nppoarnncc  of  orchardM  in 
■diintry.     Occ&Hioiially  \vn 
not  ttie  nf>rps8iiry  time  for 
of  these  orcharil  groiimlii, 
It  noon  to  iniikc  tin  efTort 
Uno  man  took    his  way 
ling  into  the  river,  in  iiopo 
mill  anotlier  tooii  our  own 
re  voInntrfTH  ;    and  to  the 
as  promised  a  pair  of  pis- 
van),  but  as  a  toitnn  of  gra- 
ce wliich  would  froo  us  all 

g  our  few  animals  a  horse 
icli  reduced,  that,  with  trav- 
good  grass  could  not  save 
Ig  nothing  to  eat,  ho  was 
noon,  ile  w  iS  a  good  anj. 
ade  the  journey  round  Irom 

entatum  continued  the  clia' 
in  flower;  and  the  nuked- 
Ircady  mentioned  continued 
[?ginning  to  put  forth  a  small 
At  evening  the  men  re- 
een  or  heard  nothing  of  Mr, 
determined  to  make  a  hard 
river  the  next  morning,  and 
n. 

^e  continued  rapidly  along  on 
beaten  trail,  the  mere  travel' 
ng  the  delightful  air  being  a 
ent.  Our  ""oad  led  along  a 
to  the  river,  and  the  air  and 
is  were  fragrant  with  flower- 
1  in  the  course  of  the  mom- 
n  an  open  spur,  by  which  we 
tly  to  the  stream.  Here  the 
ddenly  from  the  mountains, 
had  hemmed  it  closely  in; 
nne  softer,  and  change  sensi- 
iter;  and  at  this  point  com- 
st  beautiful  valley  in  which 
ivelled.  We  hurried  to  the 
1  we  noticed  a  small  sand 
Mr.  PreuBs  would  naturally 
e  found  no  trace  of  him,  but, 
recent  tracks  of  bare-footed 
tie  piles  of  muscle  shells,  and 
I  they  had  roasted  the  fish. 
on  over  the  river  grounds, 
idulating,  and  covered  with 
sr  brink.  We  halted  to  noon 
ond,  always  under  the  shade 
m  oaks,  which  formed  open 
lottoms. 

lur  road  in  the  aftemoon,  we 
le  uplands,  where  the  rivp' 


184-l.j 


CAPT.  FRRMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


14» 


,)M«e«  round  n  point  of  great  lieauty,  and 
goes  through  very  rernnrkalilo  dalles,  in  rlia- 
rtcter  resembling  lho«D  of  the  rolumbia. 
Beyond,  we  again  ilencended  to  the  IxUtoms, 
whore  we  found  an  Indian  village,  consisting 
of  two  or  three  huts;  we  had  come  upon 
them  suddenly,  anrl  the  people  had  evidently 
just  run  olf.  The  In  Us  wero  low  and  slight, 
made  like  beehives  i  i  a  picture,  five  or  six 
feet  high,  and  near  each  was  a  cral(>,  formed 
of  interlaced  branches  and  grafts,  in  ni/.e  ami 
shape  like  a  very  large  hogshead.  Each  of 
these  contained  from  six  to  nine  liushcls. 
These  were  filled  with  the  long  acorns  al- 
ready mentioned,  und  in  the  hut«  were 
several  neatly  made  hasketi»,  containing  quan- 
tities of  the  acorns  roasted.  They  were 
sweet  and  agreeably  flavored,  and  wo  sup- 
plied ourselves  with  about  half  a  bushel, 
leaving  one  of  our  shirts,  a  handkerchief,  and 
some  smaller  articles,  in  r  xclmnge.  The 
river  again  entered  for  a  spiice  among  hills, 
a.id  wo  followed  a  trail  lenuing  across  a  bend 
through  a  handsome  hollow  behind.  Here, 
while  engaged  in  trying  to  circumvent  a  deer, 
wo  discovered  some  Indians  nn  a  hill  several 
hundred  yards  ahead,  and  mve  them  a  shout, 
to  which  they  responded  by  loud  and  rapid 
talking  and  vehement  gesticulation,  hut  made 
no  stop,  hurrying  up  the  mountain  as  fast  as 
their  legs  could  carry  them.  Wo  passed 
on,  and  again  encamped  in  a  grassy  grove. 

The  abs,ence  of  Mr.  Preuss  gave  me  great 
concern :  and,  for  a  large  reward,  Derosier 
volunteered  to  go  hack  on  the  trail.  I  di- 
rected hira  to  S3arcli  along  the  river,  travel- 
ling upward  f-  r  the  space  of  a  day  and  a 
half,  at  which  time  I  expected  he  would 
meet  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  whom  I  requested  to 
aid  in  the  seari  h ;  at  all  events,  he  was  to 
go  no  farther,  but  return  to  this  camp,  where 
a  cnche  of  provisions  was  made  for  him. 

Continumg  the  next  day  down  the  rivfr, 
we  discovered  three  squaws  in  a  little  bot- 
tom, and  surrounded  them  before  they  could 
make  their  esiape.  They  had  large  conical 
baskets,  whir*  they  were  engaged  in  filling' 
with  a  small  leafy  plant  (erodium  eicutart' 
urn)  just  now  beginning  to  bloom,  and  cov- 
ering the  grounrl  like  a  sward  of  grass. 
These  did  not  make  any  lamentations,  but 
appeared  very  much  impressed  with  our  ap- 
pearance, speaking  to  us  only  in  a  whisper, 
and  ofiering  us  smaller  baskets  of  the  plant, 
which  they  signified  to  us  was  good  to  eat, 
making  signs  also  that  it  was  to  be  cookod 
by  the  fire.  We  drew  out  a  little  cold  horse 
meat,  and  the  squaws  made  signs  to  us  that 
the  men  had  gone  out  after  deer,  and  that 
we  could  have  some  by  waiting  till  they 
came  in.  We  observed  that  the  horses  ate 
with  great  avidity  the  herb  which  they  had 
been  gathering ;  and  here  also,  for  the  first 
time,  we  saw  Indians  eat  the  common  grass 


:  iV; 


— one  of  the  squaws  pulling  several  tufls, 
and  eating  it  with  apparent  relish.  {Seeing 
our  surpris«(,  she  pointed  to  the  hono-x;  but 
WR  could  iw>t  well  understand  what  the 
meant,  except,  perhaps,  that  wliiit  was  good 
for  the  one  was  good  for  the  other. 

We  encamped  in  the  evening  on  the  shore 
of  Uio  river,  nt  a  place  where  the  associated 
beauties  of  scenery  made  so  strong  an  im- 
pression on  us  that  we  have  eriven  it  the 
name  of  the  Rcautiful  Camp.  The  undulat- 
ing river  shore  was  shaded  with  the  live 
oaks,  which  formed  a  continuous  grove  over 
the  country,  and  the  same  grassy  swiird  ex- 
tended to  the  edge  of  the  water ;  and  we 
made  our  fires  near  some  large  granite 
masseF  'hich  wore  lying  among  the  trees. 
W  'on  several  of  the  acorn  caches  dii- 

and  here  there  were  two  which 
ee,  containing  each,  probably, 
I  Towards  evening  we  heard  a 

^  (ing  the  hills  behind,  and  had 

I  >  see  Mr.  Preuss  descending 

t(<\\iii'(ls  the  <  >  lip.  Like  ourselves,  ho  hud 
travelled  to-day  26  miles,  but  had  seen 
notliing  of  Derosier.  Knowing,  on  the  day 
he  was  lost,  that  I  was  determined  to  keep 
the  river  as  much  as  possible,  he  had  not 
thought  it  necessary  to  follow  the  trail  very 
closely,  but  walked  on,  right  and  left,  cer- 
tain to  find  it  srir-.:  vherc  along  the  river, 
searching  places  to  obtain  good  views  of  the 
country.  Towards  sunset  he  climbed  down 
towards  the  river  to  look  for  the  camp ;  but, 
finding  no  trail,  concluded  that  we  were  be- 
hind, and  walked  back  until  night  came  on, 
when,  being  very  much  fatigued,  he  collect- 
ed drift  wood  and  made  a  large  fire  among 
the  rocks.  The  next  day  it  became  more 
serious,  and  he  encamped  again  alone,  think- 
ing that  we  must  have  taken  some  other 
course.  To  go  back  would  have  been  mad- 
ness in  his  weak  and  starved  condition,  and 
onward  towards  the  valley  was  his  only 
hope,  always  in  expectation  of  reaching  it 
soon.  His  principal  means  of  subsistence 
were  a  few  roots,  which  the  hunters  call 
sweet  onions,  having  very  little  taste,  but  a 
good  deal  of  nutriment,  growing  generally 
m  rocky  ground,  and  requiring  a  mod  deal 
of  labor  to  get,  as  he  had  only  a  pocKet  knife. 
Searching  tor  these,  he  found  a  nest  of  big 
ants,  which  he  let  run  on  his  hand,  and 
stripped  them  off  in  his  mouth ;  these  had  an 
agreeable  acid  taste.  One  of  his  greatest 
privations  was  the  want  of  tobacco ;  and  a 
pleasant  smoke  at  evening  would  have  been 
a  relief  which  only  a  voyageur  could  appre- 
ciate. He  tried  the  dried  leaves  of  the  live 
oak,  knowing  that  those  of  other  oaks  were 
sometimes  used  as  a  substitute ;  but  these 
were  too  thick,  and  would  not  do.  On  the 
4th  he  made  seven  or  eight  miles,  walking 
slowly  along  the  river,  avoiding  as  much  M 


150 


CAPT,  FRKMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


ri8u 


'It 


pMniMn  to  climb  the  hilU.  In  little  poolH  hn 
caught  NOino  or  tho  iimallciit  kind  i>r  fri>Kii, 
which  hn  RwaliowctI,  not  no  much  in  the 
grntifiration  of  hiin{for,  m  in  the  hope  of  ob- 
taining; Hoino  Ntren);th.  Hcattered  alon;;  the 
river  were  old  flro-place»,  where  the  IndianH 
had  roBHted  miiKclcM  and  acorna ;  but  thou);h 
hn  searched  dili((ently,  he  did  not  there  sue- 
ceod  in  Hndinir  eitlier.  }Ie  had  collected 
tire  wood  for  the  niffht,  when  he  heard  at 
■onto  diotance  from  the  river  tho  barkinft  of 
what  he  thouffht  were  two  do^,  and  walked 
in  tiiat  direction  aa  quickly  aa  ho  was  able, 
hoping;  to  find  there  aomn  Indian  hut,  but 
met  only  two  woIvch  ;  and,  in  hia  dinappoint- 
ment,  the  gloom  of  tho  foreit  wan  doubled. 

Travollini;  the  ne.xt  day  feebly  down  tho 
river,  ho  found  five  or  lix  Indians  at  the  huts 
of  which  wo  have  spoken ;  aomo  were  paint- 
ing  themselves  black,  and  others  roasting 
acornH.  Being  only  one  man,  they  did  not 
run  oiT,  but  received  him  kindly,  and  gave 
liim  a  welcome  supply  of  rr.asted  acorns. 
He  gave  them  his  pocket  knife  in  return, 
and  stretched  out  his  hand  to  one  of  the  In- 
dians, who  did  not  appear  to  comprehend  the 
motion,  but  jumped  back,  aa  if  he  thought  he 
was  about  to  lay  hold  of  him.  They  seemed 
afraid  of  him,  not  certain  as  to  what  he 
was. 

Travelling  on,  he  came  to  tho  place  where 
wo  'had  found  the  Bquawci.  Hero  he  found 
our  fire  still  burning,  and  the  tracks  of  the 
horses.  The  sight  gave  him  sudden  hope 
and  courage  *,  and,  following  aa  fast  as  ne 
could,  joined  '■ ,  ?f  even',  t. 

March  6. — Vv  ■  con  .iued  on  our  road, 
through  the  svime  surpassingly  beautiful 
country,  er»ire  y  unequalled  for  the  pastur- 
age of  sti'i  '  by  anything  we  had  ever  seen. 
Our  horeb£>  had  now  become  so  strong  that 
the^  were  able  to  carry  us,  and  we  travelled 
rapidly — over  four  miles  an  hour ;  four  of  us 
riding  every  alternate  hour.  Every  few 
hundred  yaras  we  came  upon  a  little  Mnd  of 
deer ;  but  we  were  too  eager  to  reach  the 
settlement,  which  we  momentarily  expected 
to  discover,  to  halt  for  any  other  than  a  pass- 
ing shot.  In  a  few  hours  we  reached  a  large 
fork,  the  northern  branch  of  the  river,  and 
equal  in  size  to  that  which  we  had  descend- 
ed. Together  they  formed  a  beautiful 
stream,  60  to  100  yards  wide ;  which  at  first, 
ignorant  of  the  nature  of  the  country  through 
which  that  river  ran,  we  took  to  bo  the  Sa- 
cramento. 

Wc  continued  down  the  right  bank  of  the 
river,  travelling  for  a  while  over  a  wooded 
upland,  where  we  had  the  delight  to  discover 
tracks  of  cattle.  To  the  southwest  was  visi- 
ble a  black  column  of  smoke,  which  we  had 
frequently  noticed  in  descending,  arising 
from  the  fires  we  had  seen  from  tho  top  of 
the  Sierra.    From  the  upland  we  descended 


into  broad  grove*  on  tho  river,  consisting  o< 
tlio  cvorgrcen,  and  a  new  s|)«>cii'«  of  wfiita 
oak  with  11  large  tiiflcd  top,  and  thrcn  to  six 
feet  in  diameter.  Among  tliriie  was  no 
brushwood  ;  and  the  graMwy  surface  gave  to 
it  the  appearance  of  parks  in  an  old  settled 
country.  Following  th>  tracks  uf  the  hones 
and  cattle  in  search  of  people,  we  ttisrovered 
a  small  village  of  Indians.  Home  of  these 
had  on  shirts  of  civilized  manufacture,  bat 
were  otherwise  naked,  and  we  could  undeN 
stand  nothing  from  them  ;  thoy  appeared  en* 
tirely  astonislied  at  seeing  us. 

VVo  made  an  acorn  meal  at  noon,  and 
hurried  on ;  the  "alley  being  gay  with  flow- 
ers, and  some  of  the  banks  being  alMolulcly 
golden  with  the  Calil'ornian  puppy  (itsch- 
achollzia  croeea).  Here  the  grass  was  smooth 
and  green,  and  the  groves  very  open ;  tho 
largo  oaks  throwing  a  broad  shade  among 
sunny  spots.  Shortly  afterwards  wo  gave  a 
shout  at  the  sppearance  on  a  little  blutl'of  a 
neatly  built  adobe  house  with  glass  win- 
dows. Wo  rode  up,  but,  to  our  diHappoint- 
ment,  found  only  Indians.  There  was  no 
appearance  of  cultivation,  and  wo  could  see 
no  cattle,  and  wo  supposed  the  place  had 
been  abandoned.  We  now  pressed  on  more 
eagerly  than  ever ;  the  river  swept  round  in 
a  largo  bond  to  the  right ;  the  hills  lowered 
down  entirely ;  and,  gradually  entering  a 
broad  valley,  we  came  unexiiectedly  into  a 
largo  Indian  village,  where  trie  people  look- 
ed clean,  and  wore  cotton  shirts  anii  various 
other  articles  of  dross.  They  immediately 
crowded  around  us,  and  we  had  tho  inex- 
pressible delight  to  find  one  who  spoke  a  lit- 
tle indiilerent  Spanish,  but  who  at  tirst  con- 
founded us  by  saying  there  were  no  whites 
in  the  country ;  but  just  then  a  well-dressed 
Indian  came  up,  and  made  his  salutations  in 
very  well  spoken  Spanish.  In  answer  to 
our  inquiries,  he  informed  us  tliat  we  were 
upon  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos  (the  river  of 
the  Americans),  and  that  it  joined  the  Sa- 
cramento river  about  10  miles  below.  Never 
did  a  name  sound  more  sweetly  I  We  felt 
ourselves  among  our  countrymen ;  for  the 
name  of  American,  in  these  distant  parts,  u 
applied  to  the  citizens  of  the  United  States. 
To  our  eager  inquiries  he  answered,  "  I  am 
a  vaquero  (cow  herd)  in  ^e  service  of  Capt. 
Sutter,  and  tho  people  of  thia  rancheria 
work  for  him."  Our  evident  satisfaction 
made  him  communicative ;  and  he  went  on 
to  say  that  Capt.  Sutter  was  a  very  rich 
man,  and  always  glad  to  see  bis  country 
people.  We  asked  for  his  house.  He  an- 
swered, that  it  was  just  over  the  hill  before 
us ;  and  ofiered,  if  we  would  wait  a  moment, 
to  take  his  horse  and  conduct  us  to  it.  Wo 
readily  accepted  hia  civil  offer.  In  a  short 
distance  we  came  in  sight  of  the  fort ;  an^ 
passing  on  the  way  the  house  of  a  settler  ob 


JaiM^ 


riau  I 

on  tlio  river,  coniii«tinff  ol 
(1  a  new  »\}cc'w»  of  wliitt 
iifled  top,  unci  thri'ii  to  »ix 
Ainot)^;  ihrMO  wan  no 
llie  grHn»y  Hwrface  ifiivo  to 
of  parkd  in  an  old  nettled 
n;{  th>  tracks  uf  the  lionei 
ih  of  people,  wo  ttinrovered 

Indiani.  Home  of  theae 
civilized  manufacture',  bat 
iked,  and  we  could  uiideN 
n  them  ;  they  appeared  en^ 
t  seeing  us. 

acorn  meal  at  nonn,  and 
illoy  boin^;  |{ay  with  flow* 
Ihe  bankH  bcin^;  abMulutely 
Califurnian  pt>ppy  (mcA- 
Here  the  (rraaii  waa  8mooth 
he  groves  very  open  j  the 
ng  a  broad  shailo  among 
trtly  afterwards  wo  gave  a 
irance  on  a  little  bliifl'of  a 
s  houRo  with  glaaa  win- 
ip,  but,  to  our  dixappoint- 

Indians.  There  waa  no 
ivatinn,  and  wo  could  see 
:  supposed  the  place  had 

We  now  pressed  on  more 
;  the  river  swept  round  in 
B  right ;  the  hills  lowered 
nd,  gradually  entering  a 
came  unexpectedly  into  a 
[0,  where  the  people  look- 
3  cotton  shirts  nnu  various 
dress.  They  immediately 
IS,  and  we  had  the  inex< 
3  find  one  who  spoke  a  lit- 
nish,  but  who  at  first  con- 
ning there  were  no  whites 
it  just  then  a  well-dressed 
nd  made  his  salutations  in 

Spanish.  In  answer  to 
nformed  us  that  we  were 
>$  Americanos  (the  river  of 
tnd  that  it  joined  the  Sa- 
>ut  10  miles  below.  Never 

more  sweetly !  We  felt 
our  countrymen ;  for  the 
t,  in  these  distant  parts,  ia 
sens  of  the  United  States, 
liries  he  answered,  "  I  am 
rd)  in  ^e  service  of  Capt 
people  of   this  rancheria 

Our  evident  satisfaction 
fiicative ;  and  he  went  on 

Sutter  was  a  very  rich 

glad  to  see  his  country 
d  for  ills  house.  He  an- 
18  just  over  the  hill  before 
we  would  wait  a  moment, 
md  conduct  as  to  it.  We 
lis  civil  oiTer.  In  a  short 
in  sight  of  the  fort ;  an^ 
y  the  house  of  a  settler  on 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


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11.25  11.4   llllli.6 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)872-4503 


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Microfiche 

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1844.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE, 


m 


the  opposite  tiide  (a  Mr.  Sinclair),  we  forded 
the  river ;  and  in  a  few  miles  were  met  a 
short  distance  from  tiie  fort  by  Capt.  Sutter 
himself.  Ho  gave  us  a  most  frank  and  cor> 
dial  reception — conducted  us  immediately  to 
his  residence — and  under  his  hospitable  roof 
we  had  a  night  of  rest,  enjoyment,  and  re- 
freshmeat,  which  none  but  ourselves  could 
appreciate.  But  the  party  left  in  the  moun- 
tains with  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  were  to  be  at- 
tended to;  and  tlie  next  morning,  supplied 
with  fresh  horses  and  provisions,  I  hurried 
off  to  meet  them.  On  the  second  day  we 
met,  a  few  miles  below  the  forks  of  the  Rio 
de  loB  Americanos ;  and  a  more  forlorn  and 
pitiable  sight  than  they  presented,  cannot 
well  be  imagined.  They  were  all  on  foot — 
each  man,  weak  and  emaciated,  leading  a 
horse  or  mule  as  weak  and  emaciated  as 
themselves.  They  had  experienced  great 
difficulty  in  descending  the  mountains,  made 
slippery  by  rains  and  melting  snows,  and 
many  horses  fell  over  precipices,  and  were 
killed ;  and  with  some  were  lost  the  packs 
they  carried.  Among  these,  was  a  mule 
witt)  the  plants  which  we  had  collected  since 
leaving  Fort  Hall,  along  a  line  of  2,000 
miles  travel.  Out  of  sixty-seven  horses  and 
mules  with  which  we  commenced  crossing 
the  Pierra,  only  thirty-three  reached  the  val- 
ley of  the  Sacramento,  and  they  only  in  a 
condition  to  be  led  along.  Mr.  Fitzpatrick 
and  his  party,  travelling  more  slowly,  had 
been  able  to  make  some  little  exertion  at 
hunting,  and  had  killed  a  few  deer.  The 
scanty  supply  was  a  great  relief  to  them ; 
for  several  had  been  mule  sick  by  the  strange 
and  unwholesome  food  which  the  preserva- 
tion of  life  compelled  them  to  use.  We 
stopped  and  encamped  as  soon  as  we  met ; 
and  a  repast  of  good  beef,  excellent  bread, 
and  delicious  salmon,  which  I  had  brought 
along,  were  their  first  relief  from  the  suffer- 
ings of  the  Sierra,  and  their  first  intro- 
duction to  the  luxuries  of  the  Sacramento. 
It  required  all  our  philosophy  and  forbear- 
ance to  prevent  plenty  from  becoming  as 
hurtful  to  UB  now,  as  scarcity  had  been  be- 
fore. 

The  next  day,  March  8th,  we  encamped 
at  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers,  the  Sacra- 
mento and  Americanos ;  and  thus  found  the 
whole  party  in  the  beautiful  valley  of  the 
Sacramento.  It  wu  a  convenient  place  for 
the  camp  ;  andT,  among  other  things,  was 
within  reach  of  the  wom  aeceasary  to  make 
tlie  pack  saddles,  which  we  should  need  on 
our  long  journey  home,  from  which  we  were 
farther  distant  now  than  we  were  four  months 
befors,  when  from  the  Dalles  of  the  Colum- 
bia we  so  cheerfully  took  up  the  homeward 
line  of  march. 

Captain  Sutter  emigrated  to  this  country 
IroiB  the  western  part  of  Missouri  in  1838- 


1839,  and  formed  the  first  settlement  in  the 
valley,  on  a  large  grant  of  land  which  he  olv 
tained  from  the  Mexican  Government.  He 
had,  at  first,  some  trouble  with  the  Indians; 
but,  by  the  occasional  exercise  of  well-timed 
authority,  he  has  succeeded  in  converting 
them  into  a  peaceable  and  industrious  peo- 
ple. The  ditches  around  his  extensive 
wheat  fields;  the  making  of  the  sun-dried 
bricks,  of  which  his  fort  is  constructed ;  the 
ploughing,  harrowing,  and  other  agricultural 
operations,  are  entirely  the  y/o'- .  of  these 
Indians,  for  which  they  recu.  j  a  very  mo- 
derate compensation — principally  in  shirts, 
blankets,  and  other  articles  of  clothing.  In 
the  same  manner,  on  application  to  the  chief 
of  a  village,  he  readily  obtains  as  many  boys 
and  girls  as  he  has  any  use  for.  There 
were  at  this  time  a  number  of  girls  at  th<c. 
fort,  in  training  for  a  future  woollen  factory; 
but  they  were  now  all  busily  engaged  ia 
constantly  watering  the  gardens,  which  the 
unfavorable  dryness  of  the  season  rendered 
necessary.  The  occasional  dryness  of  some 
seasons,  I  understood  to  be  the  only  com- 
plaint of  the  settlers  in  this  fertile  valley,  as 
It  sometimes  renders  the  crops  unc?!t :?:. 
Mr.  Sutter  was  about  making  arrangen  a  .i, 
to  irrigate  his  lands  by  means  of  the  Rio  de 
los  Americanos.  He  had  this  year  sown, 
and  altogether  by  Indian  labor,  three  hun- 
dred fanegas  of  wheat. 

A  few  years  since,  the  neighboring  Rus- 
sian establishment  of  Ross,  Ming  about  to 
withdraw  from  the  country,  sold  to  him  a 
large  number  of  stock,  with  agricultural 
and  other  stores,  with  a  number  of  pieces 
of  artillery  and  other  munitions  of  war ;  for 
these,  a  regular  yearly  payment  is  made  in 
grain. 

The  fokt  is  a  quadrangular  adobe  struc- 
ture, mounting  twelve  pieces  of  artillery 
(two  of  them  brass),  and  capable  of  admit- 
ting a  garrison  of  a  thousand  men ;  this,  at. 
present,  consists  of  forty  Indians,  in  uniform 
—one  of  whom  was  always  found  on  duty 
at  the  gate.  As  might  naturally  be  expect* 
ed,  the  pieces  are  not  in  very  good  order. 
The  whites  in  the  employment  of  Capt.  Sut- 
ter, American,  French  and  German,  amount, 
perhaps,  to  thirty  men.  The  inner  wall  is 
formed  into  buildings,  comprising  the  com- 
mon quarters,  with  blacksmith  and  other 
workshops ;  the  dwelling  house,  with  a  large 
distillery  house,  and  other  buildings,  occu- 
pying more  the  centre  of  the  area. 

It  is  built  upon  a  pond-like  stream,  at 
times  a  running  creek  communicating  with 
tlie  Rio  de  los  Americanos,  which  enters  the 
Sacramento  about  two  miles  below.  The 
latter  is  here  a  noble  river,  about  three  hun- 
dred yards  broad,  deep  and  tranquil,  with 
several  fathoms  of  water  in  the  channel,  and 
its  banks  continuously  timbered.     Thert 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATTVE- 


[18U 


were  two  vessels  belonging  to  Capt.  Sutter 
at  anchor  near  the  landing — one  a  large 
two-masted  lighter,  and  the  other  a  schoo- 
ner, which  was  shortly  to  proceed  on  a 
voyage  to  Fort  Vancouver  for  a  cargo  of 
goods. 

Since  his  arrival,  several  other  persons, 
principally  Americans,  have  established 
themselves  in  the  valley.  Mr.  Sinclair,  from 
whom  I  experienced  much  kindness  during 
my  stay,  is  settled  a  few  miles  distant,  on  the 
Rio  de  los  Americanos.     Mr.  Coudrois,  a 

fentleman  from  Germany,  has  established 
imself  on  Feather  river,  and  is  associated 
with  Captain  Sutter  in  agricultural  pur- 
suits. Among  other  improvements,  they  are 
about  to  introduce  the  cultivation  of  rape 
seed  (hrassiai  rapus),  which  there  is  every 
reason  to  believe  is  admirably  adapted  to  the 
climate  and  soil.  The  lowest  average  pro- 
duce of  wheat,  as  far  as  we  can  at  present 
know,  is  thirty-five  fanegas  for  one  sown ; 
but,  as  an  instance  of  its  fertility,  it  may  be 
mentioned  that  SenorValejo  obtained,  on  a 
piece  of  ground  where  sheep  had  been  pas' 
tnred,  800  fanegas  for  eight  sown.  The 
produce  being  different  in  various  places,  a 
very  correct  idea  cannot  be  formed. 

An  impetus  was  given  to  the  active  little 
population  by  our  arrival,  as  we  were  in 
want  of  everything.  Mules,  horses,  and 
cattle,  were  to  be  collected ;  the  horse  mill 
was  at  work  day  and  night,  to  make  sufii- 
eient  flour ;  the  blacksmith's  shop  was  put  in 
requisition  for  horse  shoes  and  bridle  bits ; 
and  pack-saddles,  ropes,  and  bridles,  and  all 
the  other  little  equipments  of  the  camp,  were 
again  to  be  provided. 

The  delay  thus  occasioned  was  one  of  re- 
pose and  enjoyment,  which  our  situation  re- 
quired, and,  anxious  as  we  were  to  re- 
sume our  homeward  journey,  was  regretted 
by  no  one.  In  the  meantime,  I  bad  the  plea- 
sure to  meet  with  Mr.  Chiles,  who  was  re- 
siding at  a  farm  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river  Sacramento,  while  engaged  in  the  se- 
lection of  a  place  for  a  settlement,  for  which 
he  had  received  the  necessary  grant  of  land 
firom  the  Mexican  Govemraent. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  we  had  parted 
near  the  frontier  of  the  States,  and  that  he 
had  subsequently  descended  the  valley  of 
Lewis's  fork,  with  a  party  of  ten  or  twelve 
men,  with  the  intention  of  crossing  the  in- 
termediate mountains  to  the  wnters  of  the 
iKiy  of  San  Francisco.  In  the  execution  of 
this  design,  and  aided  by  subsequent  infor- 
mation, lie  left  the  Columbia  at  the  mouth 
of  Malheur  river ;  and  making  his  way  to 
the  head  waters  of  the  Sacramento  with  a 
part  of  his  company,  travelled  down  that 
liver  to  the  settlements  of  Nueva  Helvetia. 
The  other  party,  to  whom  he  had  committed 
hk  wagons,  and  mill  irons  and  saws,  took  a 


course  further  to  the  south,  and  the  wagons 
and  their  contents  were  lost. 

On  the  22d  we  made  a  preparatory  move, 
and  encamped  near  the  settietneiit  of  Mr. 
Sinclair,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rio  de  los 
Americanos.  I  had  discharged  five  of  the 
partv;  Neal,  the  blacksmitii  (an  excelleu 
workman,  and  an  unmarried  man,  who  hao 
done  his  duty  faithfully,  and  had  been  of 
very  great  service  to  me),  desired  to  remain, 
as  strong  inducements  were  offered  here  to 
mechanics.  Although  at  considerable  iu- 
converfience  to  myself,  his  ffood  c(uiduct  in- 
duced me  to  comply  with  his  request;  and 
I  obtained  for  him,  from  Captain  Sutter,  a 
present  compensation  of  two  dollars  and  a 
naif  per  diem,  with  a  promise  that  it  should 
be  increased  to  five,  if  he  proved  as  good  a 
workman  as  had  been  represented.  Ho  was 
more  particularly  an  agricultural  blacksmith. 
The  other  men  were  discharged  with  their 
own  consent. 

While  we  remained  at  this  place,  Dero- 
sier,  one  of  our  best  men,  whoso  steady 
good  conduct  had  won  my  regard,  wandered 
off  from  the  camp,  and  never  returned  to  it 
again ;  nor  has  he  oince  been  heard  of. 

March  24. — We  resumed  our  journey 
with  an  ample  stock  of  provisions  and  a 
large  cavalcade  of  animals,  consisting  of 
130  horses  and  mules,  and  about  thirty  head 
of  cattle,  five  of  which  were  milch  cows. 
Mr.  Sutter  furnished  us  also  with  an  Indian 
boy,  who  had  been  trained  as  a  vaquero,  and 
who  would  be  serviceable  in  managing  our 
cavalcade,  great  part  of  which  were  nearly 
as  wild  as  buflklo ;  and  who  was,  besides, 
very  anxious  to  go  along  with  us.  Our  di- 
rect course  home  was  east ;  but  the  Sierra 
would  force  us  south,  above  five  hundred 
miles  of  travelling,  to  a  pass  at  the  head  of 
the  San  Joaquin  river.  This  pass,  reportet^ 
to  be  good,  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Joseph 
Walker,  of  whom  I  have  already  spoken, 
and  whose  name  it  might  therefore  appro- 
priately bear.  To  reach  it,  our  course  lay 
along  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin — ^the 
river  on  our  right,  and  the  lofty  wall  of  the 
impassable  Sierra  on  the  ft.  From  that 
pass  we  were  to  move  ^outheastwardly, 
having  the  Sierra  then  on  the  right,  and 
reach  the  "  Spanish  trail,"  deviously  traced 
from  one  watering  place  to  another,  which 
constituted  the  route  of  the  caravans  from 
Puebla  de  hs  Angeks,  near  the  coast  of  the 
Pacific,  to  Santa  Fi  of  New  Mexico.  From 
the  pass  to  this  trail  was  150  miles.  Fol- 
lowing that  trail  through  a  desert,  relieved 
by  some  fertile  plains  indicated  by  the  re- 
currence of  the  term  vegas,  until  it  turned 
to  the  right  to  cross  the  Colorado,  our  conne 
would  be  northeast  until  we  regained  the 
latitude  we  had  lost  in  arriving  at  the  Eutab 
lake,  and  thence  to  the  Rocky  mountains  at 


[18U 

'  Boiitli,  and  the  wagoni 

ero  lost. 

a  preparatory  move, 

the  settlement  of  Mr. 
I  bank  of  the  Rio  de  los 

discharged  five  of  Uie 

icksmitli  (an  excelleu 
[married  man,  who  hao 
[ully,  and  had  been  of 

me),  desired  to  remain, 
Its  were  offered  here  to 
Igh  at  considerable  in- 
Iff,  his  irood  conduct  in- 

with  liis  request ;  and 
[from  Captain  Sutter,  a 
of  two  dollars  and  a 
promise  that  it  should 
if  he  proved  as  good  a 
n  represented.  Ho  was 
agricnltural  blacksmith. 

discharged  with  their 

ed  at  this  place,  Deio- 
(st  men,  whose  steady 
)n  my  regard,  wandered 
nd  never  returned  to  it 
ince  been  heard  of. 
resumed  our    journey 
Ick  of  provisions  and  a 
I   animals,  consisting  of 
ps,  and  about  thirty  head 
hich  were  milch  cows. 
|1  us  also  with  an  Indian 
.rained  ae  a  vaquero,  and 
iceable  in  managing  our 
t  of  which  were  nearly 
and  who  was,  besides, 
along  with  us.    Our  di- 
as  east ;  but  the  Sierra 
ith,  above  five  hundred 
to  a  miss  at  the  head  oi 
Jr.    This  pass,  reporter 
scovered  by  Mr.  Joseph 
I  have  already  spoken, 
'  might  therefore  appro- 
■each  it,  our  course  lay 
the  San  Joaquin — ^the 
nd  the  lofty  wall  of  the 
n  the      ft.    From  that 
move     outheastwardly, 
hen  on   the  right,  and 
trail,"  deviously  traced 
place  to  another,  which 
)  of  the  caravans  from 
s,  near  the  coast  of  the 
of  New  Mexico.   From 
1  was  150  miles.    Fol* 
Dugh  a  desert,  relieved 
ns  indicated  by  the  re- 
1  vmas,  until  it  turned 
he  Colorado,  our  conne 
until  we  regained  the 
in  arriving  at  the  Eutab 
he  Rocky  mountain*  at 


.'.•ij  .."^tar^^ 


1844.] 


CAPT  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


IM 


the  head  of  the  Arkansas.  This  course  of 
travelling,  forced  upon  us  by  the  structure 
of  the  country,  would  occupy  a  computed 
distance  of  two  thousand  miles  before  we 
reached  the  head  of  the  Arkansas ;  not  a 
settlement  to  bo  seen  upon  i*' ;  and  the 
names  of  places  alon^r  it,  all  being  Spanish 
or  Indian,  indicated  that  it  had  been  but  lit- 
tle trod  by  American  feet.  Though  long, 
and  not  free  from  hardships,  this  route  pre- 
sented some  points  of  attraction,  in  tracing 
the  Sierra  Nevada — turning  the  Great  Basin, 
perhaps  crossing  its  rim  on  the  south — com- 
pletely solving  the  problem  of  any  river,  ex- 
cept the  Colorado,  from  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains on  that  part  of  our  continent — and 
seeing  the  soutliern  extremity  of  the  Great 
Salt  Take,  of  which  the  northern  part  had 
been  examined  the  year  before. 

Taking  leave  of  Mr.  Sutter,  who,  with 
several  gentlemen,  accompanied  us  a  few 
miles  on  our  way,  we  travelled  about  eight- 
een miles,  and  encamped  on  the  Rio  de  Its 
Co»umnes,  a  stream  receiving  its  name  from 
the  Indians  who  live  in  its  valley.  Our  road 
was  through  a  level  country,  admirably 
suited  to  cultivation,  and  covered  with 
groves  of  oak  trees,  principally  the  ever- 
green oak,  and  a  large  oak  already  men- 
tioned, in  form  like  those  of  the  white  oak. 
The  weather,  which  here,  at  this  season, 
can  easily  be  changed  from  the  summer  heat 
of  the  valley  to  the  frosty  mornings  and 
bright  days  nearer  the  mountains,  conti- 
nued delightful  for  travellers,  but  unfavora- 
dIb  to  the  agriculturists,  whose  crops  of 
wheat  began  to  wear  a  yellow  tinge  from 
want  of  rain. 

March  35. — ^We  travelled  for  28  miles 
over  the  same  delightful  country  as  yester- 
day, and  halted  in  a  beautiful  bottom  at  the 
foro  of  the  Rio  de  los  Mukelemnes,  receiving 
its  name  from  another  Indian  tribe  living  on 
the  river.  The  bottoms  on  the  stream  are 
broad,  rich,  and  extremely  fertile ;  and  the 
uplands  are  shaded  with  oak  groves.  A 
showy  lupinus,  of  extraordinary  beauty, 
growmg  four  to  five  feet  in  height,  and  co- 
vered with  spikes  in  bloom,  adorned  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  filled  the  air  with  a 
light  and  grateful  perfume. 

On  the  26th  we  halted  at  the  Arroyo  de 
las  Calaveras  (Skull  creek),  a  tributary  to 
the  San  Joaquin — the  previous  two  streams 
entering  the  bay  between  the  San  Joaquin 
and  Sacramento  rivers.  This  place  is  beau- 
tiful, with  open  groves  of  oak,  and  a  grassy 
sward  beneath,  with  many  plants  in  bloom ; 
some  varieties  of  which  seem  to  love  the 
shade  of  the  trees,  and  grow  there  in  close 
small  fields.  Near  the  river,  and  replacing 
the  grass,  are  great  quantities  of  atntnoU 
(soap  plant),  the  leaves  of  which  ar«  used  in 
Caliibrn'a  for  making,  among  other  things. 


mats  for  saddle  cloths.  A  vino  with  a  small 
white  flower  (melothria  ?)  called  here  la 
yerba  hiteria,  and  which,  from  its  abundance, 
gives  name  to  an  island  and  town  in  the  bay, 
was  to-day  very  frequent  on  our  road — some- 
times running  on  the  ground  or  climbing  the 
trees. 

March  27. — To-<lay  we  travelled  steadily 
and  rapidly  up  the  valley:  for,  with  our  wild 
animals,  any  other  gait  was  impossible,  and 
making  about  five  miles  an  hour.  During 
the  earlier  part  of  the  day,  our  ride  had  been 
over  a  very  level  prairie,  or  rather  a  succes- 
sion of  long  stretclies  Df  prairie,  separated  by 
lines  and  groves  of  oak  timber,  growing  along 
dry  gullies,  which  are  filled  with  water  in 
seasons  of  rain ;  and,  perhaps,  also,  by  the 
melting  snows.  Over  much  of  this  extent, 
the  vegetation  was  sparse ;  the  surface  show- 
ing plainly  the  action  of  water,  which,  in  the 
season  of  Hood,  the  Joaquin  spreads  over  the 
valley.  About  1  o'clock  wo  came  again 
among  innumerable  flowers  ;  and  a  few 
miles  further,  fields  of  the  beautiful  blue- 
flowering  luvine,  which  seems  to  love  the 
neighborhooa  of  water,  indicated  that  we 
were  approaching  a  stream.  We  here  found 
this  beautiful  shrub  in  thickets,  some  of 
them  being  12  feet  in  height.  Occasionally 
three  or  four  plants  were  clustered  together, 
forming  a  grand  bouquet,  about  90  feet  in 
circumference,  and  10  feet  high  ;  the  whole 
summit  covered  with  cpikes  of  flowers,  the 
perfume  of  which  is  very  sweet  and  ^teful. 
A  lover  of  natural  beauty  can  imagme  with 
what  pleasure  wo  rode  among  these  flower- 
ing groves,  which  filled  the  air  with  a  light 
and  delicate  fragrance.  We  continued  our 
road  for  about  half  a  mile,  interspersed 
through  an  open  grove  of  live  oaks,  which, 
in  form,  were  the  most  symmetrical  and 
beautiful  we  had  yet  seen  m  this  country. 
The  ends  of  their  branches  rested  on  the 
ground,  forming  somewhat  more  than  a  half 
sphere  of  very  full  and  regular  figure,  with 
leaves  apparently  smaller  than  usual. 

The  Califomian  poppy,  of  a  rich  orange 
color,  was  numerous  to-day.  Elk  and  several 
bands  of  antelope  made  their  appearance. 

Our  road  was  now  one  continued  enjoy- 
ment ;  and  it  was  pleasant,  riding  among  this 
assemblage  of  green  pastures  with  \-aried 
flowers  and  scattered  groves,  and  out  of  the 
warm  green  spring,  to  look  at  the  rocky  and 
snowy  peaks  where  lately  we  had  suffered 
so  much.  Emerging  from  the  timber,  we 
came  suddenly  upon  the  Stanislaus  river, 
where  we  hoped  to  find  a  ford,  but  the  stream 
was  flowing  by,  dark  and  deep,  swollen  by 
the  mountam  snows ;  its  general  breadth 
was  about  60  yards. 

We  travelled  about  five  miles  up  the  river, 
and  encamped  without  being  able  to  find  a 
ford.    Here  we  made  a  large  corU,  in  order 


I' I 

I! 


m 
m 


IM 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


(0  be  able  to  catcli  a  sufficient  number  of 
our  wild  animals  to  relieve  those  previously 
packed. 

Under  the  shade  of  the  oaks,  alonff  the 
river,  I  noticed  erodium  cicutarium  in  bloom, 
eiffht  or  ten  inches  high.  This  is  the  plant 
which  we  had  seen  the  squaws  gatherings  on 
the  Rio  de  los  Americanos.  By  the  inhabit- 
ants of  the  valley,  it  is  highly  esteemed  for 
fattening  cattle,  which  appear  to  be  very 
fond  of  it  Here,  where  the  soil  begins  to 
be  sandy,  it  supplies  to  a  considerable  extent 
the  want  of  grass. 

Desirous,  as  far  as  possible,  without  delay, 
to  include  in  our  examination  the  San  Joa- 
quin river,  I  returned  this  morning  down  the 
Stanislaus  for  17  miles,  and  again  encamped 
without  having  found  a  fording  place.  After 
following  it  for  8  miles  further  the  next 
morning,  and  finding  ourselves  in  tiie  vicinity 
of  the  San  Joaquin,  encamped  in  p.  hand- 
some oak  grove,  and,  several  cattle  being 
killed,  we  ferried  over  our  baggage  in  their 
skins.  Here  our  Indian  boy,  who  probably 
had  not  much  idea  of  where  he  was  going, 
and  began  to  be  alarmed  at  the  many  streams 
which  we  were  rapidly  putting  between  him 
and  the  village,  desertecf. 

Thirteen  nead  of  cattle  took  a  sudden 
fright,  while  we  were  driving  them  across 
the  river,  and  galloped  off.  I  remained  a 
day  in  the  endeavor  to  recover  them ;  but, 
finding  they  had  taken  the  trail  back  to  the 
fort,  let  them  go  without  further  effort. 
Here  we  had  several  days  of  warm  and  plea- 
sant rain,  which  doubtless  saved  the  crops 
below. 

On  the  Ist  of  April,  we  made  10  miles 
across  a  prairie  without  timber,  when  we 
were  stopped  again  by  another  large  river, 
which  is  called  the  Rio  de  la  Merced  (river 
of  our  I^ady  of  Mercy).  Here  the  country 
bad  lost  its' character  of  extreme  fertility,  the 
soil  having  become  more  sandy  and  light ; 
but,  for  several  days  past,  its  beauty  had  been 
increased  by  the  additional  animation  of  ani- 
mal life ;  and  now,  it  is  crowded  with  bands 
of  elk  and  wild  horses ;  and  along  the  rivers 
are  frequent  fresh  tracks  of  ^izzly  bear, 
which  are  unusually  numerous  in  this  coun- 
try. 

Our  route  had  been  along  the  timber  of  the 
San  Joaquin,  generally  about  8  miles  distant, 
over  a  high  prairie. 

In  one  of  the  bands  of  elk  seen  tonlay, 
there  were  about  200 ;  but  the  larger  bands, 
both  of  these  and  wild  horses,  are  generally 
found  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  which, 
for  ttiat  reason,  I  avoided  crossing.  I  htui 
been  informed  below,  that  the  droves  of  wild 
horses  were  almost  invariably  found  on  the 
,  western  bank  of  the  river ;  and  the  dancer 
•f  losing  our  animals  among  them,  together 
with  the  wish  of  adding  to  our  reconnois- 


11844, 


sance  the  numersns  streams  which  run  down 
from  the  Sierra,  decided  me  to  travel  up  the 
eastern  bank. 

April  2. — The  day  was  occupied  in  build- 
ing a  boat,  and  ferrying  our  baggage  across 
the  river ;  and  we  encamped  on  the  bank. 
A  large  fishing  ea^Ie,  with  white  head  and 
tail,  was  slowly  sailing  along,  looking  after 
salmon ;  and  there  were  some  pretty  birds  in 
the  timber,  with  partridges,  ducks,  and  geese 
innumerable  in  the  neigliborhood.  We  were 
struck  with  the  lameness  of  the  latter  bird  at 
Helvetia,  scattered  about  in  flocks  near  the 
wheat  fields,  and  eating  grass  on  the  prairie ; 
a  horseman  would  ride  by  within  30  yards, 
without  disturbing  them. 

April  3. — Toniay  we  touched  several 
times  the  San  Joaquin  river — here  a  fine- 
looking  tranquil  stream,  with  a  slight  cur- 
rent, and  apparently  deep.  It  rescmhled  the 
Missouri  in  color,  with  occasional  points  of 
white  sand;  and  its  banks,  where  steep, 
were  a  kind  of  sandy  clay ;  its  average  width 
appeared  to  be  about  eighty  yards.  In  the 
bottoms  are  frequent  ponds,  where  our  ap- 
proach disturbed  multitudes  of  wild  fowl, 
principally  geese.  Skirting  along  the  tim- 
ber, we  frequently  started  elk ;  and  large 
bands  were  seen  during  the  day,  with  ante- 
lope and  wild  horses.  The  low  country  and 
the  timber  rendered  it  difficult  to  keep  the 
main  line  of  the  river ;  and  this  evening  we 
encamped  on  a  tributary  stream,  about  five 
miles  from  its  mouth.  On  the  prairie  border- 
ing the  San  Joaquin  bottoms,  there  occurred 
during  the  day  but  little  grass,  and  in  its 
place  was  a  sparse  and  dwarf  growth  of 
plants ;  the  soil  being  sandy,  witli  small  bare 
places  and  hil'ocks,  reminded  me  much  of 
the  Platte  bottoms ;  but,  on  approaching  the 
timber,  we  found  a  more  luxuriant  vegeta- 
tion ;  and  at  our  camp  was  an  abundance  of 
grass  and  pea  vines. 

The  foliage  of  the  oak  is  getting  darker ; 
an:!  rv?ry thing,  except  that  the  weather  is  a 
little  cool,  shows  that  spring  is  rapidly  ad- 
vancing ;  and  to-day  we  had  quite  a  summer 
rain. 

April  4. — Commenced  to  rain  at  daylight, 
but  cleared  off  brightly  at  sunrise.  We  fer- 
ried the  river  without  any  difficulty,  and  con- 
tinued up  the  San  Joaquin.  Elk  were  ran* 
ning  in  bands  over  the  prairie  and  iu  (he 
skirl  of  the  timber.  We  reached  the  rivor 
again  at  the  mouth  of  a  large  slough,  which 
we  were  unable  to  ford,  and  made  a  circuit 
of  several  miles  around.  Here  the  country 
appears  very  flat;  oak  trees  have  entirely 
disappeared,  and  are  replaced  by  a  large 
willow,  nearly  equal  to  it  in  size.  Tm 
rivsr  is  about  a  hundred  yards  in  breadth, 
branching  into  sloughs,  and  interspersed 
with  islands.  At  this  time  it  appears  suffi- 
ciently deep  for  a  small  steamer,  but  its  na* 


1 


11844.    I    1844.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


IM 


Btreams  which  run  down 
ided  me  to  travel  up  the 

ijr  waa  occu|)ied  in  build- 
ying  our  Imggnfre  acrora 
encamped  on  the  banlt. 
:le,  with  wliite  head  and 
ling  along,  looking  after 
vero  some  pretty  birds  in 
tridges,  ducl<B,and  geese 
leigliborhood.  We  were 
eness  of  tl<e  latter  bird  at 
about  in  floclts  near  the 
ting  grass  on  the  prairie ; 
ride  by  within  30  yards, 
iiem. 

y    we    touched   several 

cjuin  river— here  a  fine- 

■eam,  with  a  slight  cur- 

'  deep.    It  rescmoled  the 

vith  occasional  points  of 

its  banks,  where  steep, 

yclay;  its  average  width 

»ut  eighty  yards.     In  the 

nt  ponds,  where  our  ap- 

nultitudea  of  wild  fowl. 

Skirting  along  the  tim- 

started  elk ;  and  large 

iring  the  day,  with  ante- 

s.    The  low  country  and 

d  it  difficult  to  keep  the 

'cr ;  and  this  evening  we 

butary  stream,  about  five 

\i.    On  the  prairie  border- 

n  bottoms,  there  occurred 

t  little  grass,  and  in  its 

36  and  dwarf  growth  of 

ng  sandy,  with  small  bare 

I,  reminded  me  much  of 

but,  on  approaching  the 

i  more  luxuriant  vegeta- 

mp  was  an  abundance  of 

I. 

he  oak  is  getting  darker ; 
ept  that  the  weatlier  is  a 
that  spring  is  rapidly  ad- 
y  we  had  quite  a  summer 

snced  to  rain  at  daylight, 
htly  at  sunrise.  We  fer^ 
ut  any  difficulty,  and  coo- 
fnaquin.  Elk  were  ran* 
the  prairie  and  in  (he 
.  We  reached  the  rivor 
of  a  large  slough,  which 
ford,  and  made  a  circuit 
und.  Here  the  country 
oak  trees  have  entirely 
re  replaced  by  a  large 
lal  to  it  in  size.  Tat 
ndred  yards  in  breadth, 
ughs,  and  interspersed 
lis  time  it  appears  suffi* 
mall  steamer,  but  its  na* 


vlgation  would  be  broken  by  shallows  at  low 
wutcr.  Retiring  in  towards  the  river,  we 
were  again  forced  ofT  by  another  slough ; 
and  passing  around,  steered  towards  a  clump 
of  trees  on  the  river,  and,  finding  there  good 
graes,  encamped.  The  prairies  along  the 
left  bank  arc  alive  with  immense  droves  of 
wild  horses ;  and  they  had  been  seen  during 
the  day  at  every  opening  through  tke  woods 
whic.h  ailbrdcd  us  a  view  across  the  river. 
Latitude,  by  observation,  37°  08'  00";  lon- 
gitude 120"  46' 22", 

April  6. — During  the  earlier  part  of  the 
day's  ride,  the  country  presented  a  lacus- 
trine appearance  ;  the  river  was  deep,  and 
nearly  on  a  level  with  the  surrounding  coun- 
try ;  its  banks  raised  like  a  levee,  and  fring- 
ed with  willows.  Over  the  bordering  plain 
were  interspersed  spots  of  prairie  among 
fields  o(  IvU  (bulrushes),  which  in  this  coun- 
try are  called  tulares,  and  little  ponds.  On 
the  opposite  side,  a  line  of  timber  was  visi- 
ble, which,  according  to  information,  points 
nut  the  course  of  the  slough,  which  at  times 
of  high  water  connects  with  the  San  Joa- 
quin river — a  large  body  of  water  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  valley,  called  the  TuM 
lakes.  The  river  and  all  its  sloughs  are 
very  full,  and  it  is  orobable  that  the  lake  is 
now  discharging.  Here  elk  were  frequent- 
ly started,  and  one  was  shot  out  of  a  band 
which  ran  around  us.  On  our  left,  the 
Sierra  maintains  its  snowy  height,  and 
masses  of  snow  appear  to  descend  very  low 
towards  the  plains ;  probably  the  late  rains 
in  the  valley  were  snow  on  the  mountains. 
We  travelled  37  miles,  and  encamped  on  the 
river.  Longitude  of  the  camp,  120°  28' 
34",  and  latitude  36°  49'  12 '. 

April  6. — After  having  travelled  fifteen 
miles  along  the  river,  we  made  an  early  halt, 
under  the  shade  of  sycamore  trees.  Here 
we  found  the  San  Joaquin  coming  down 
from  the  Sierra  with  a  westerly  course,  and 
checking  our  way,  as  all  its  tributaries  had 
previously  done.  We  had  expected  to  raft 
the  river ;  but  found  a  good  ford,  and  en- 
camped on  the  opposite  bank,  where  droves 
of  wild  horses  were  raising  clouds  of  dust 
on  the  prairie.  Columns  of  smoke  were 
visible  in  the  direction  of  the  Tuli  lakes  to 
the  southward — probably  kindled  in  the  tu- 
lares by  the  Indians,  as  signals  that  there 
were  strangers  in  the  valley. 

We  made,  >n  the  7th,  a  hard  march  in  a 
raid  chilly  rain  from  morning  until  night — 
the  weather  so  thick  that  we  travelled  by 
compass.  This  was  a  traverse  from  the  San 
Joaquin  to  the  watera  of  the  Tula  lakes, 
and  our  road  was  over  a  very  level  prairie 
country.  We  aaw  wolves  frequently  during 
Uie  day,  prowling  about  after  the  young  an- 
telope, which  cannot  run  very  &8t.    These 


were  numerous  during  the  day,  and  two 
were  caught  by  the  people. 

Lnle  in  the  afternoon  we  discovered  tim- 
ber, which  was  found  to  lie  gnives  of  oak 
trees  on  a  dry  arroyo.  The  rHin,  which  had 
fallen  in  frequent  8nowcr«<,  poured  down  in  a 
storm  at  sunset,  with  a  strong  wind,  which 
swept  oft'  the  clouds,  and  left  a  clear  sky. 
Hiding  on  through  the  timber,  about  dark 
we  found  abundant  water  in  small  ponds,  20 
to  30  yards  in  diameter,  with  clear  deep 
water  and  sandy  beds,  bordered  with  bog 
rushes  (juncus  efpu.ivi),  and  a  tall  rush 
(scirptts  lacuslris'j  twelve  feet  high,  and  sur- 
rounded near  the  margin  with  willow  trcci 
in  bloom  ;  among  them  one  which  resem- 
bled saiix  myricoides.  The  oak  of  the 
groves  was  tW  same  already  mentioned, 
with  small  leaves,  in  form  like  those  of  the 
white  oak,  and  forming,  with  the  evergreen 
oak,  the  characteristic  trees  of  the  valley. 

April  8. — After  a  ride  of  two  miles 
through  brush  and  open  groves,  we  reached 
a  large  stream,  called  the  River  of  the  Lake, 
resembling  in  size  the  San  Joaquin,  and 
being  about  100  yards  broad.  This  is  the 
principal  tributary  to  the  Tule  lakes,  which 
collect  all  the  waters  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  valley.  While  we  were  searching  for  a 
ford,  some  Indians  appeared  on  the  opposite 
banif,  and,  having  discovered  that  we  were 
not  Spanish  soldiers,  showed  us  the  way  to 
a  good  ford  several  miles  above. 

The  Indians  of  the  Sierra  make  frequent 
descents  upon  the  settlements  west  of  the 
Coast  Range,  whicli  they  keep  constantly 
swept  of  horses ;  among  them  are  many  who 
are  called  Christian  Indians,  being  refugees 
from  Spanish  missions.  Severaf  of  these 
incursions  occurred  while  we  were  at  Hel- 
vetia. Occasionally  parties  of  soldiers  fol- 
low them  across  the  Coast  Range,  but  never 
enter  the  Sierra. 

On  the  opposite  side  we  found  some  forty 
or  fifty  Indians,  who  had  come  to  meet  us 
from  the  village  below.  We  made  them 
some  small  presents,  and  invited  them  to  ac- 
company US  to  our  encampment,  which, 
after  about  three  miles  through  fine  oak 
groves,  we  made  on  the  river.  We  made  a 
tort,  principally  on  account  of  our  animals. 
The  Indians  brought  otter  skins,  and  several 
kinds  of  fish,  and  bread  made  of  acorns,  to 
trade.  Among  them  were  several  who  had 
come  to  live  among  these  Indians  when  the 
missions  were  br^en  up,  and  who  spoke 
Spanish  fluently.  They  informed  us  that 
they  were  called  bv  the  Spaniards  mansitos 
(tame),  in  distinction  from  the  wilder  tribes 
of  the  mountains.  They,  however,  think 
themselves  very  insecure,  not  knowing  at 
what  unforeseen  moment  the  sins  of  the  lat- 
ter may  be  visited  on  them.    They  are  dark* 


it;  I 


IM 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1844 


skinned,  but  Imnclpomo  nnd  intclli|;rnt  In- 
dianx,  nnd  livo  principally  on  at'orns  nnd  the 
roote  of  the  tiilo,  of  wliicli  rIho  thoir  huts 
are  madn. 

By  obBcrvation,  the  latitude  of  the  on- 
camnment  in  36"  24'  50",  and  longitude 
I19«'  41   40", 

April !). — For  neversl  miles  wc  had  very 
bad  travellinflf  over  what  i«  culled  rotten 
ground,  in  which  the  horaea  were  frequently 
up  to  their  knees.  Makin;*  towards  a  line 
of  timber,  we  found  asmnll  fordnble  stream, 
beyond  which  the  country  improved,  and  the 
grass  became  excellent ;  and,  crossing  a 
number  of  dry  and  timtered  arrnynn,  we 
travelled  until  late  through  open  oak  groves, 
and  encamped  among  a  collection  of  streams. 
These  were  running  among  rushes  and  wil- 
lows; and,  as  nsual,  flocks  of  blackbirds 
announced  our  approach  to  water.  We 
have  here  approached  considerably  nearer  to 
the  eastern  Sierra,  which  shows  very  plain- 
ly, still  covered  with  masses  of  snow,  which 
yesterday  and  to-day  has  also  appeared 
abundant  on  the  Coast  Range. 

April  10. — To-day  we  made  another  long 
journey  of  about  forty  miles,  through  a 
country  uninteresting  and  flat,  with  very 
little  grass  and  a  sandy  soil,  in  which  several 
branches  wo  crossed  had  lost  their  water. 
In  the  evening  the  face  of  the  country  be- 
came hilly;  and,  turning  a  few  miles  up 
towards  the  mountains,  we  found  a  good  en- 
campment on  a  pretty  stream  hidden  among 
the  hills,  and  handsomely  timbered,  princi- 
pally with  large  cottonwoods  (popH?«.<t,  differ- 
ing from  any  in  Michanx's  Sylva).  The 
seed  vessels  of  this  tree  were  now  just  about 
bursting. 

Several  Indians  came  down  the  river  to 
r*e  us  in  the  evening ;  we  gave  them  supper, 
and  cautioned  them  against  stealing  our 
horses ;  which  they  promised  not  to  attempt. 

April  II. — A  broad  trail  along  the  river 
here  takes  out  amo  ■-  the  hills.  "Buen 
camino"(good  road,,  .id  one  of  the  In- 
dians, of  whom  we  had  niquired  about  the 
pass ;  and,  following  it  hccordingly,  it  con- 
ducted us  beautifully  through  a  very  broken 
country,  by  an  excellent  way,  which,  other- 
wise, we  should  have  found  extremely  bad. 
Taken  separately,  the  hills  present  smooth 
and  graceful  outlines,  but,  together,  make 
bad  travelling  ground.  Instead  of  grass,  the 
whole  face  of  the  country  is  closely  covered 
with  erodium  cicutarium,  here  only  two  or 
three  inches  high.  Its  height  and  beauty 
varied  in  a  remarkable  manner  with  the  lo- 
cality, being,  in  many  low  places  which  we 
passed  during  the  day,  around  streams  and 
springs,  two  and  three  feet  in  height.  The 
country  had  now  assumed  a  character  of 
aridity ;  and  the  luxuriant  green  of  these 
little  streams,  wooded  with  willow,  oak,  or 


sycamore,  looked  very  refretihinf  among  th« 
sandy  hills. 

In  the  evening  wc  encamped  nn  a  .arge 
creek,  with  abundant  water.  I  noticed  here 
in  bloom,  for  the  first  time  since  leaving  the 
Arkansas  waters,  the  Mirabilis  Jalaua. 

April  12. — Along  our  road  to-day  the 
country  was  altogether  sandy,  and  veiretation 
meaprer.  Ephedra  occi'lcntalis,  which  we 
had  first  seen  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Pyramid  lake,  made  its  appearance  here,  and 
in  the  course  of  the  day  became  very  abun- 
dant, and  in  largo  bushes.  Towards  the 
close  of  the  afternoon,  we  reached  a  tolera- 
bly large  river,  which  empties  into  a  !<iiiall 
lake  at  the  head  of  the  valley  ;  it  is  abour 
thirty-five   yards   wide,   with   a  stony  anii 

ffravelly  bed,  and  the  swiftest  stream  we 
lave  crossed  since  leaving  the  bay.  The 
bottoms  produced  no  grass,  though  well 
timbered  with  willow  and  cottonwood  ;  and, 
after  ascending  it  for  several  miles,  we  made 
a  late  encampment  on  a  little  bottom,  with 
scanty  grass.  In  greater  part,  the  vegeta- 
tion along  our  road  consisted  now  of  rare 
and  unusual  plants,  among  which  many 
were  entirely  new. 

Along  the  bottoms  were  thickets  consist- 
ing of  several  varieties  of  shrubs,  which 
made  here  their  first  appearance;  and  among 
these  was  Garrya  elliptica  (Lindley),  asmafi 
tree  belonging  to  a  very  peculiar  natural 
order,  and,  in  its  general  appearance  (grow- 
ing in  thickets),  resembling  willow.  It  now 
became  common  along  the  streams,  fre- 
quently supplying  the  place  of  salix  longi- 
folia, 

April  13. — The  water  was  low,  and  a  few 
miles  above  we  forded  the  river  at  a  rapid, 
and  marched  in  a  southeasterly  direction 
over  a  less  broken  country.  The  mountains 
were  now  very  near,  occasionally  looming 
out  through  fog.  In  a  few  hours  we  reached 
the  bottom  of  a  creek  without  water,  over 
which  the  sandy  beds  were  dispersed  in 
many  branches.  Immediately  where  we 
struck  it,  the  timber  terminated  ;  and  below, 
to  the  right,  it  was  a  broad  l)ed  of  dry  and 
bare  sands.  There  were  many  tracks  of 
Indians  and  horses  imprinted  in  the  sand, 
which,  with  other  indications,  informed  us 
was  the  creek  issuing  from  t'e  pass,  and 
which  we  have  called  Pass  creek.  We  as- 
cended a  trail  for  a  few  miles  along  the 
creek,  and  suddenly  found  a  stream  of  water 
five  feet  wide,  running  with  a  lively  current, 
but  losing  itself  almost  immediately.  This 
little  stream  showed  plainly  the  manner  in 
which  the  mountain  waters  lose  themselves 
in  sand  at  the  eastern  foot  of  the  Sierra, 
leaving  only  a  parched  desert  and  arid  plains 
beyond.  The  stream  enlarged  rapidly,  and 
the  timber  became  abundant  as  we  ascended. 
A  new  species  of  pine  made  its  appearance 


[1844 

Ivery  refrnnhinj  iimonjy  th« 

|wo  encamped  on  a  Arge 

wfttor.     I  noticed  here 

rst  time  wince  leaving  the 

the  Mirabiliis  Jalam, 

ing  oiir  road    to-day  the 

(ther  sandy,  and  vrcetation 

occvlenlalis,  which   we 

tlio  neighborhood  of  the 

le  ita  appearance  here,  and 

liie  day  became  very  abun- 

rgo  bushed.     Towards  the 

•noon,  we  reached  a  toiera- 

hich  emptien  into  a  nniall 

of  the  valley  ;  it  is  abom 

wide,  with   a  stony  ano 

1   the  swiftest   stream  we 

;e  leaving  the  hay.    The 

I   no    grass,   thoii<rh   well 

low  and  cottnnwo<xl ;  and, 

for  several  miles,  we  made 

it  on  a  little  bottom,  with 

n  greater  part,  the  vegeta- 

'oad  consisted  now  of  rare 

int'f,  among  which   many 

V. 

oms  werR  thickets  consist- 
varieties  of  shrubs,  which 
irst  appearance ;  and  among 
I  elliplica  (Lindley),  a  smaO 
o  a  very  peculiar  natural 
general  appearance  (grow* 
resembling  willow.  It  now 
n  along  the  streams,  fre> 
g  the  place  of  »alix  longi- 

le  water  was  low,  and  a  few 
forded  the  river  at  a  rapid; 

a  southeasterly  direction 
n  country.  The  mountains 
near,  occasionally  looming 
In  a  few  hours  we  reached 
creek  without  water,  over 
y  beds  were  dispersed  in 

Immediately  where  we 
ber  terminated  ;  and  below, 
IB  a  broad  l)ed  of  dry  and 
lere  were  many  tracks  of 
see  imprinted  in  the  sand, 
tr  indicatio:is,  informed  us 
Bsuing  from  t'e  pass,  and 
allexl  Pass  crock.  We  aa- 
br  a  few  miles  along  the 
nly  found  a  stream  of  water 
ming  with  a  lively  current, 
ilmost  immediately.  This 
ved  plainly  the  manner  in 
ain  waters  lose  themselves 
eastern  foot  of  the  Sierra, 
rched  desert  and  arid  plains 
earn  enlarged  rapidly,  and 
e  abundant  as  we  ascended, 
pine  made  its  appearance 


1844.] 


CA1>T.  FRRMONT'8  NARRATlVi:. 


Ill 


with  several  kind^  of  oaks,  and  a  variety  of 
trees;  and  the  country  changing  its  appear- 
ance suddenly  and  entirely,  we  found  our- 
selves again  travelling  among  the  old  or- 
chard-like places.  Here  wo  selected  a  de- 
lightful encampment  in  a  handHomc  green 
oak  hollow,  where,  among  the  open  bolls  of 
the  trees,  was  an  abundant  sward  of  grass 
and  pea  vines.  In  the  evening  a  Christian 
Indian  rode  into  the  camp,  well  dressed,  with 
long  spurs,  and  a  snmltrero,  and  speaking 
•Spanisli  fluently.  It  was  an  unexpected  ap- 
parition, and  a  strange  and  pleasant  sight  m 
this  desolate  gorge  of  a  mountain — an  Indian 
face,  Hpanish  costume,  jingling  spurs,  and 
horse  equipped  after  the  Spanish  manner. 
He  informed  me  that  he  belonged  to  one  of 
the  Spanish  missions  to  the  south,  dintant 
two  or  three  days'  ride,  and  that  he  had 
obtained  from  the  priests  leave  to  spend  a 
few  days  with  his  relations  in  the  Sierra. 
Having  seen  iis  enter  the  'pasx,  he  had  come 
down  to  visit  us.  He  appcaiy  familiarly 
acrjuttinted  with  the  country, Wd  gave  me 
definite  and  clear  information  in  regard  to 
the  desert  region  east  of  the  mountains.  I 
had  entered  the  pass  with  a  strong  disposi- 
tion to  vary  my  route,  and  to  travel  directly 
across  towards  the  Great  Salt  lake,  in  the 
view  of  obtaining  some  acquaintance  with 
the  interior  of  the  Great  Basin,  while  pur- 
suing a  direct  course  for  the  frontier;  but 
his  representation,  which  described  it  as  an 
arid  and  barren  desert,  that  had  repulsed  by 
its  sterility  all  the  attempts  of  the  Indians 
to  penetrate  it,  determbed  me  for  the  present 
to  relinquish  the  plan ;  and,  agreeably  to  his 
advice,  after  crossing  the  Sierra,  continue 
our  intended  route  along  its  eastern  base  to 
the  Spanish  trail.  By  this  route,  a  party  of 
six  Indians,  who  had  come  from  a  great 
river  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  desert  to 
trade  with  his  people,  had  just  started  on 
(heir  return.  He  would  himself  return  the 
next  day  to  San  Fernando ;  and  as  our  roads 
would  be  the  same  for  two  days,  he  ofTered 
his  services  to  conduct  us  so  far  on  our  way. 
His  offer  was  gladly  accepted.  The  fog, 
which  had  somewhat  interfered  with  views 
in  the  valley,  had  entirely  passed  oflff  and 
left  a  clear  sky.  That  which  had  enveloped 
us  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  pass  pro- 
ceeded evidently  from  fires  kindled  among 
the  tularcs  by  Indians  living  near  the  lakes, 
and  which  were  intended  to  warn  those  in 
the  mountains  that  there  were  strangers  in 
the  valley.  Our  position  was  in  latitude  35° 
17'  12",  and  longitude  118"  36' 03". 

April  14. — Our  guide  joined  us  this  morn- 
ing on  the  trail;  and,  arriving  in  a  short 
distance  at  an  open  bottom  where  the  creek 
forked,  we  continued  up  the  right-har.d 
branch,  which  was  enriched  by  a  profusion 
of  flowers,  and  handsomely  wooded  with 


sycamore,  oaks,  cottonwond.  and  willoWi 
with  other  trees,  and  some  sliriilihy  plants. 
In  its  long  strings  of  balls,  this  sycam.')ro 
diflcrs  from  that  of  the  United  States,  and  is 
the  jilalanits  or.r.idmlnlh  of  Hooker — a  new 
species,  recently  described  atnnng  the  plants 
collected  in  the  voyage  of  the  Sulphur.  The 
Cottonwood  varied  its  foliage  with  white 
tufts,  and  the  feathery  seeds  were  flying 
plentifully  through  the  air.  Gooselwrries, 
nearly  rii)e,  were  very  abundiint  on  the  moun- 
tain ;  and  as  we  passed  the  dividing  grouiuls, 
which  were  not  very  easy  to  ascertain,  the 
air  was  filled  with  perfume,  as  if  we  were 
entering  a  highly  cultivated  garden  ;  and, 
instead  of  creen,  our  pathway  and  the  moun- 
tain sides  TO  covered  with  fields  of  yellow 
flowers,  which  hero  was  the  prevailing  color. 
Our  journey  to-day  wos  in  the  midst  of  an 
advanced  spring,  whose  green  and  floral 
beauty  offered  a  delightful  contrast  to  the 
sandy  valley  wo  had  just  left.  AIL  the  day 
snow  was  in  sight  on  the  butt  of  the  moun- 
tain, which  frowned  down  upon  us  on  the 
right ;  but  we  beheld  it  now  with  feelings  of 
pleasant  security,  as  we  rode  along  between 
green  trees,  and  on  flowers,  with  humming 
birds  and  other  feathered  friends  of  the  tra- 
veller enlivening  the  serene  spring  air.  Aa 
we  reached  the  summit  of  tliia  beautiful 
pass,  and  obtained  a  view  into  the  eastern 
country,  we  saw  at  once  that  here  was  the 
place  to  take  leave  of  all  such  pleasant 
scenes  as  those  around  us.  The  distant 
mountains  were  now  bald  rocks  again ;  and 
below,  the  land  had  any  color  but  green. 
Taking  into  consideration  the  nature  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  we  found  this  pass  an  excel- 
lent one  for  horses  ;  and  with  a  little  labor, 
or  perhaps  with  a  more  perfect  examination 
of  the  localities,  it  might  be  made  sufficient- 
ly practii'able  for  wagons.  Its  latitude  and 
longitude  may  be  considered  that  of  our 
last  encampment,  only  a  few  miles  distant. 
The  elevation  was  not  taken — our  half-wild 
cavalcade  making  it  too  troublesome  to  halt 
before  night,  when  once  started. 

We  here  left  the  waters  of  the  bay  of  San 
Francisco,  and,  though  forced  upon  them 
contrary  to  my  intentions,  I  cannot  regret 
the  necessity  which  occasioned  the  deviation. 
It  made  me  well  acquainted  with  the  great 
range  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  of  the  Alta  Cali- 
fornia, and  showed  that  this  broad  and  ele- 
vated snowy  ridge  was  a  continuation  of  the 
Cascade  Range  of  Oregon,  between  which 
and  the  ocean  there  is  still  another  and  a 
lower  range,  parallel  to  the  former  and  to 
the  coast,  and  which  may  be  called  the  Coast 
Range.  It  also  made  me  well  acquainted 
with  the  basin  of  the  San  Francisco  bay, 
and  with  the  two  pretty  rivers  and  their 
vallevs  (the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin), 
which  are  tributary  to  that  bay ;  and  cleared 


i 


158 


CAl'T.  KRKMONT'S  NAIIKATIVK. 


[1 


■p  aomc  points  in  Kc^offrapliv  (in  whicli  error 
had  loni(  pruviiilt'd.  It  Imil  lH*en  rnnittantly 
repreiientcil,  aa  I  li.ive  already  iitated,  that 
the  bay  of  San  Franciaco  o|)ened  far  into  tho 
interior,  l)y  oomo  river  cocnin|{  down  from 
tho  banc  of  tlio  Rocky  mountains,  and  upon 
whicli  HuppoHod  Htrcam  tlie  name  of  Kio 
liuenavontiira  had  lieen  bestowed.  Our  ob< 
•ervationH  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  in  tho  lon^; 
diatancc  (mm  the  head  of  the  Hacramento  to 
tho  head  of  tho  Han  Joaquin,  and  of  the  val- 
ley below  it,  which  collects  all  the  watora  of 
the  San  Francisco  bay,  show  that  this  nei- 
ther is  nor  can  be  the  case.  No  river  from 
the  interior  does,  or  can,  cross  the  Sierra 
Nevada — itself  more  lof\y  than  the  rocky 
mountains ;  and  as  to  the  Buenaventura,  the 
mouth  of  which  seen  on  the  coast  gave  the 
Idea  and  the  name  of  the  reputed  great  river, 
it  is,  in  fact,  a  small  stream  of  no  conse- 
quence, not  only  below  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
but  actually  below  the  Coast  Range — taking 
its  rise  within  half  a  degree  of  the  ocean, 
running  parallel  to  it  for  about  two  degrees, 
and  then  falling  into  the  Pacific  near  Mon- 
terey. There  is  no  opening  from  tho  bay  of 
San  Francisco  into  the  interior  of  the  conti- 
nent. The  two  rivers  which  flow  into  it  are 
comparatively  short,  and  not  perpendicular 
to  tho  coast,  but  lateral  to  it,  and  having 
their  head;*  towards  Oregon  and  southern  Cal- 
ifornia. They  open  lines  of  communication 
norlli  and  south,  and  not  oastwardly ;  and 
thus  this  want  of  interior  communication 
from  the  San  Francisco  bay,  now  fully  as- 
certained, gives  great  additional  value  to  the 
Columbia,  which  stands  alone  as  the  only 
great  river  on  the  Pacific  slope  of  our  conti- 
nent which  leads  from  the  ocean  to  the 
Rocky  mountains,  and  opens  a  line  of  com- 
munication from  the  sea  to  the  valley  of  tho 
Mississippi. 

Four  compafkros  joined  our  guide  at  the 
pass ;  and  two  going  back  at  noon,  the  others 
continued  on  in  company.  Descending  from 
the  hills,  we  reached  a  country  of  fine  grass, 
where  the  erodium  ciciUarium  finally  disap- 
peared, giving  place  to  an  excellent  quality 
of  bunch  grass.  Passing  by  some  springs 
where  there  was  a  rich  sward  of  grass 
among  groves  of  large  black  oak,  we  rode 
over  a  plain  on  which  the  guide  pointed  out 
a  spot  where  a  refugee  Christian  Indian  had 
been  killed  by  a  party  of  soldiers  which  had 
unexpectedly  penetrated  into  the  mountains. 
Crossing  a  low  sierra,  and  descending  a  hol- 
^w  where  a  spring  gushed  out,  we  were 
struck  by  the  sudden  appearance  of  yucca 
trees,  which  gave  a  strange  and  soiitliern 
character  to  the  country,  and  suited  well 
with  the  dry  and  desert  region  we  were  ap- 
proaching. Associated  with  the  idea  of  bar- 
ren sands,  their  stiff  and  ungraceful  form 
■wkes  them  to  the  traveller  the  most  repul- 


sive tree  in  the  vogotablo  kingdom.  Folloir* 
ing  the  holliiw,  wo  xhortly  came  ii|)on  a  creek 
timbered  with  largo  black  oak,  which  yet 
had  not  put  forth  a  leaf.  There  was  a  amall 
rivulet  of  running  water,  with  good  gruas. 

Ai>ril  \5. — Tho  Indians  who  had  accom- 
panied the  guide  returned  thi^  iiuirninir,  and 
I  purchaRPcTfrom  them  aSpanirtli  saddle  and 
long  apiirs,  aa  reininiaRcnces  of  the  time; 
ancT  for  a  few  yards  of  scarlet  cloth  they 
gave  mo  a  horse,  which  afterwards  beoama 
lood  for  other  Indians. 

We  continued  a  short  diittanco  down  the 
creek,  in  which  our  guid>  inforined  us 
that  the  water  very  soon  diHappearcd,  and 
turned  directly  to  the  southward  along  tho 
foot  of  tho  mountain  ;  the  trail  on  which  w: 
rode  appearing  to  describe  the  eaatcrn  limit 
of  travel,  where  water  and  |;ras8  terminated. 
Crossing  a  low  spur,  which  bordered  the 
creek,  we  descended  to  a  kind  of  plain 
among  tho  lower  spurs ;  the  desert  being  in 
full  view  onwur  left,  apparently  illimitable 
A  hot  mist  Mf  over  it  to-day,  tlirough  which 
it  had  a  white  and  glistcninj;  appearance; 
hero  and  there  a  few  dry-looking  buUei  and 
isolated  black  ridges  rose  auddoiily  upon  it. 
"  There,"  said  our  guide,  stretching  out  hii 
hand  towards  it,  "  tliere  are  the  great  llanos 
(plains),  no  hay  agua ;  no  hay  zacali — »mla : 
there  is  neither  water  nor  grass — nothing  ; 
every  animal  that  goes  out  upon  them,  dies." 
It  was  indeed  dismal  to  look  upon,  and  hard  to 
conceive  so  groat  a  change  in  so  short  a  dis- 
tance. '  One  might  travel  tho  world  over, 
without  finding  a  valley  more  fresh  and  ver- 
dant— more  lu>ral  and  sylvan — more  alive 
with  birds  and  animals — more  bounteously 
watered — than  we  had  left  in  the  San  Joa- 

3uin :  here,  within  a  few  miles'  ride,  a  vast 
esert  plain  spread  before  us,  from  which  the 
boldest  traveller  turned  away  in  despair. 

Directly  in  front  of  us,  at  some  distance  to 
the  southward,  and  running  out  in  an  east- 
erly direction  from  the  mountains,  stretched 
a  sierra,  having  at  the  eastern  end  (perhaps 
fiO  miles  distant)  some  snowy  peaks,  on 
which,  by  the  information  of  our  guide,  snow 
rested  all  the  year. 

Our  cavalcade  made  a  strange  and  gro- 
tesque appearance  -,  and  it  was  impossible  to 
avoid  reflecting  upon  our  position  and  com- 
position in  this  remote  solitude.  Within 
two  degrees  of  the  Pacific  ocean ;  already 
far  Boutn  of  the  latitude  of  Monterey ;  and 
still  forced  on  soutli  by  a  desert  on  one  hand 
and  a  mountain  range  on  the  other ;  guided 
by  a  civilized  Indian,  attended  by  two  wild 
ones  from  the  Sierra ;  a  Chinook  from  the 
Columbia ;  and  our  own  mixture  of  Ameri- 
can, French,  German — all  armed ;  four  or 
five  languages  heard  at  once ;  above  a  hun- 
dred horses  and  mules,  half  wild ;  American, 
Spanish,  and  Indian  dresses  and  cquipmenti 


I 


[18U 

PTOtaMo  kiiiKdoin.  Fulloif> 
xliortly  Clime  ii|)od  a  crwk 
ga  bliick  onic,  which  yet 
I  leaf.  There  was  a  Bmall 
water,  with  jjood  gmta. 
IndiaiiA  who  had  iiccntn- 
Dturiied  this  iiKiriiini;,  ami 
hem  a  Hpaiiixli  saddle  and 
ninJRccncos  of  the  time; 
rd«  or  scarlet  cloth  thojr 
which  altcrwHrds  became 
ins. 

Mhort  diiitRnco  down  the 
our    ({uidi     iiiforinod   ua 
ry  soon  dinappeared,  and 
the  Houthward  alonff  the 
in ;  the  trail  on  which  w: 
deBcribe  the  eaMcrn  limit 
Iter  and  ^rasii  terminated, 
pur,   which  bordered  the 
ided  to  a  kind  of   plain 
pura  ;  the  desert  bein^  in 
(ft,  apparently  illimitable 
T  it  to-day,  tliron^^h  which 
id  gliHtcninff  appearance; 
!w  dry-lookin(|r  buttei  and 
c»  rose  suddenly  upon  it. 
((uido,  stretching  out  his 
there  are  the  great  llanos 
[■ua ;  no  hay  zacati — naJa : 
ater  nor  grass — nothing  ; 
goes  out  upon  them,  dies." 
il  to  look  upon,  and  hard  to 
a  change  in  so  short  a  dis- 
it  travel  the   world  over, 
ifalley  more  fresh  and  ver- 
and  sylvan — more  alive 
limals — more  bounteously 
had  left  in  the  San  Joa* 
I  a  few  miles'  ride,  a  vast 
1  before  us,  from  which  the 
rned  away  in  despair, 
of  us,  at  some  distance  to 
1  running  out  in  an  east- 
the  mountains,  stretched 
;.the  eastern  end  (perhaps 
some  snowy  peaks,  on 
mation  of  our  guide,  snow 

nade  a  strange  and  gro> 
;  and  it  was  impossible  to 
on  our  position  and  com- 
imote  solitude.  Withio 
s  Pacific  ocean;  already 
titude  of  Monterey ;  and 
t  by  a  desert  on  one  hand 
ige  on  the  other ;  guided 
in,  attended  by  two  wild 
Ta;  a  Chinook  from  the 
own  mixture  of  Ameri- 
nan— all  armed  ;  four  or 
•d  at  once ;  above  a  hun> 
les,  half  wild ;  American, 
I  dresses  and  cquipmenti 


1844.) 


CAPT.  PIIEMONT'S  NAHIlAnVE. 


iitermingled — such  was  our  composition. 
Our  ma|ph  wai  a  «ort  of  procession.  Scouts 
iliead,  and  on  the  Hanks ;  a  front  and  rear 
iivinioii ;  the  park  animals,  baggage,  and 
horned  cattle,  in  the  centre  ;  and  the  whole 
stretching  a  quarter  of  a  mile  along  our 
dreary  path.  In  thin  form  wo  journeyed; 
looking  more  as  il  <^  b^rlongcd  to  Asia  than 
to  the  United  Htnti-H  of  America. 

We  continued  in  a  southerly  'liroction 
•cross  the  plain,  to  which,  as  wen/ as  to  all 
the  country,  so  far  as  we  could  see,  the  yuc- 
ca trees  gave  a  strange  and  singular  cha- 
racter. Several  new  plants  appeared,  among 
wliir.li  was  a  zygophyllaceous  Hlinii  {nj/fo- 
jihijllum  Californiciim,  Torr.  and  Frem.), 
sometimes  ten  feet  in  height ;  in  form,  ond 
in  the  pliancy  of  its  branulies,  it  is  rather  a 
graceful  plant.  It!i  leaves  are  small,  cover- 
ed with  a  reninous  Nubstance ;  and,  particu- 
larly when  bruised  and  crushed,  exhale  a 
lingular  but  very  agreeable  and  refreshing 
odor.  This  shrub  and  the  yuctlu  with  many 
varieties  of  nactuti,  make  tjieffaractcristic 
features  in  the  vegetation  for  a  long  distance 
to  the  eastward.  Along  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  twenty  miles  to  the  southward, 
red  stripes  of  flowers  were  visible  during  the 
morning,  which  we  supposed  to  be  varie- 
gated sandstones.  We  rode  rapidly  during 
the  day,  and  in  the  afternoon  emerged  from 
the  yucca  forest  at  the  foot  of  an  outlier  of 
the  Sierra  before  us,  and  came  among  the 
fields  of  flowers  we  had  seen  in  the  morn- 
ing, which  consisted  principally  of  the  rich 
orange-colored  Californian  poppy,  mingled 
with  other  flowers  of  brighter  tints.  Reach- 
ing the  top  of  the  spur,  which  wan  covered 
with  fine  bunch  grass,  and  where  the  hills 
were  very  green,  our  guide  pointed  to  a 
small  hollow  in  the  mountain  before  us,  say- 
ing, "  A  Bute  jAedra  hay  agua."  He  appear- 
ed to  know  every  nook  in  the  country.  We 
continued  our  beautiful  road,  and  reached  a 
spring  in  the  slope,  at  tiie  foot  of  the  ridge, 
running  in  a  green  ravine,  among  granite 
boulders ;  here  night-shado,  and  boroerB  of 
buckwheat,  with  their  white  blossoms  around 
the  granite  rocks,  attracted  our  notice  as  fa- 
miliar plants.  Several  antelopes  were  seen 
among  the  hills,  and  some  large  hares.  Men 
were  sent  back  this  evening  in  search  of  a 
wild  mule  with  a  valuable  pack,  which  had 
managed  (as  they  frequently  do)  to  hide 
itself  along  the  road. 

By  observation,  the  latitude  of  the  camp 
ts  34*  41 »  4a";  and  longitude  118"  20'  00". 
The  next  day  the  men  returned  with  the 
male. 

April  17. — Crossing  tlie  ridge  by  a  beau- 
tiful pass  of  hollows,  where  several  deer 
broke  out  of  the  thickets,  we  emerged  at  a 
small  salt  lake  in  a  vallon  lying  nearly  east 
and  west,  where  a  trail  from  the  misaion  of 


San  llurnaii  .iira  coinrs  in.  The  lake  is 
alxiut  1,'JUO  vards  in  diiiinetor ;  surrounded 
on  the  inHicm  by  a  vvliito  i-aity  border, 
which,  by  t'l  ■  xmell,  reminded  uh  slightly  of 
Ijnko  AIkt'  There  arc  Nome  cotloiiwoods. 
with  will<i\\  and  elder,  around  the  lake;  and 
the  water  in  a  little  salt,  altlumgli  not  en- 
tirely unlit  lor  drinking.  Hero  we  turned 
directly  to  the  eawtward,  along  the  trail, 
which,  frn:n  being  seldom  used,  is  almost 
iinporceptiblo ;  and,  alter  travelling  a  few 
miles,  our  guide  halted,  and,  pointing  to  the 
hardly  visible  trail,  "a'pii  e»  caminu,"  said 
he,  "  wi  se  pierde — va  siempre."  He  point- 
ed out  a  black  butte  on  the  plain  at  the  fool 
of  the  mountain,  whore  we  would  find  water 
to  encamp  at  night ;  and,  giving  him  a  pro- 
sent  of  knives  and  soarlet  cluth,  we  shook 
hands  and  parted,  lie  bore  olf  south,  and  in 
a  day's  ride  would  arrive  at  San  Fernando, 
one  of  several  missions  in  this  part  of  Call* 
fornia,  where  the  country  is  so  beautiful  that 
it  is  considered  a  paradise,  and  the  name  of 
its  principal  town  {I'tiehla  de  Ion  Angeles) 
would  make  it  angelic.  We  continued  on 
through  a  succession  of  valleys,  and  came 
into  a  most  beautiful  spot  of  flower  fields : 
instead  of  green,  the  hills  were  purple  and 
orange,  with  unbroken  beds,  into  which 
each  color  was  separately  gathered.  A  pale 
straw  color,  with  a  bright  yellow  the  rich 
red  orange  of  the  poppy  mingled  with  field* 
of  purple,  coverea  the  spot  with  a  floral 
beauty ;  and,  on  the  border  of  the  sandy  de- 
serts, seemed  to  invite  the  traveller  to  go  no 
farther.  Riding  along  through  the  pertumed 
air,  we  soon  after  entered  a  defile  overw 
grown  with  the  ominous  arlcmisia  triden- 
lata,  which  conducted  us  into  a  sandy  plain 
covered  more  or  less  densely  with  forests  of 
yucca. 

Having  now  the  snowy  ridge  on  our  right, 
we  continued  our  way  towards  a  dark  butie, 
belonging  to  a  low  sierra  in  the  plain,  and 
which  our  guide  had  pointed  out  lor  a  land* 
mark.  Late  in  the  day,  the  familiar  growth 
of  Cottonwood,  a  line  of  which  was  visible 
ahead,  indicated  our  approach  to  a  creek, 
which  we  reached  where  the  water  spread 
out  into  sands,  and  a  little  below  sank  eiv> 
tirely.  Here  our  gnide  had  intended  we 
should  pasa  the  niclil ;  but  there  was  not  a 
blade  ot  grass,  and,  hoping  to  find  nearer  the 
mountain  a  little  for  the  night,  we  turned  np 
the  stream.  A  hundred  yards  above,  we 
found  the  creek  a  fine  stream,  sixteen  feel 
wide,  with  a  swift  current.  A  dark  night 
overtook  us  when  we  reached  the  hills  at 
the  foot  of  the  ridge,  and  we  were  obliged 
to  encamp  without  grass;  tying  up  wnat 
animals  we  could  secure  in  the  darkness, 
the  greater  part  of  the  wild  ones  having  free 
range  for  the  night.  Here  the  stream  was 
two  feet  deep,  swift  and  clear,  issuing  from 


■f: 


4ll 


leo 


CAI'T.  PilUMONTH  NAUIIATIVK 


11844. 


t  nei).;liliorii)^  Know  peak,  A  fow  milfH  lie- 
fore  ri'iicliinii  thin  rri'i-k,  wo  had  croK^ed  n 
brnail  ilrv  river  lioil,  which,  ncarrr  the  hilU, 
thn  hiiiitors  hml  Ibiiml  n  bold  and  hatidRuinc 
utrenm. 

Ajiril  in. — Home  |mrtieii  wore  onjraffcd  in 
hunting  up  tho  •iriitturpd  horHea,  and  othpra 
in  (tpftrcliiiij?  lor  tjraaii  almvo ;  lM)th  wore 
aiincosHl'iil,  and  Into  in  tho  dny  wo  encamped 
amonj;  hoiuc  Hprinjf  lioadH  of  the  river,  in  a 
liollow  whii'li  wan  covered  with  only  toieru- 
bly  piod  ({ruHscH,  the  lower  ground  bcinir  en- 
tirely overc[rosvn  with  liirjro  bnnchoa  of  tlio 
CoarHO  HliirjyntHS  (rnrcr  siichfimis). 

Our  liititiide,  by  ohniTvation,  waa  31°  'iT 
08";  and  lonKitudo  117"  13'  00". 

Travelling  rloHC  along  tho  mountain,  we 
followed  up,  in  tho  ultemoon  of  the  19th, 
another  Htream,  in  liopeH  to  find  a  graaa- 
patch  liko  that  of  the  prcvioua  day,  but  were 
deceived ;  except  aomc  scattered  bunch 
graR»,  there  was  nothing  but  rock  and  sand ; 
and  even  tho  fertility  of  the  mountain  seem- 
ed withered  by  the  air  of  the  desert.  Among 
the  few  trees  was  the  nut  pine  (ptnus  mono- 
pkyllun). 

Our  road  the  next  day  was  still  in  an 
easterly  direction  along  the  ridge,  over  very 
bad  travelling  ground,  broken  and  cnii''^una- 
ed  with  crippled  trees  and  shtubs  ;  and, 
aOer  a  difficult  inarch  of  eighteen  miles,  a 
general  Hhout  announced  that  we  had  struck 
the  great  object  of  our  seach — the  Sfanish 
TRATL — which  hero  was  running  directly 
north.  The  road  itself,  and  its  course,  wore 
equally  happy  discoveries  to  us.  8ince  the 
middle  of  December  we  had  continually  been 
forced  south  by  mountains  and  by  deserts, 
and  now  would  have  to  make  six  degrees 
of  northing,  to  regain  the  latitude  on  which 
we  wished  to  cross  the  Rocky  mountains. 
The  course  of  the  road,  therefore,  was  what 
we  wanted ;  and,  once  more,  we  felt  like 
going  homewards.  A  rood  to  travel  on,  and 
the  right  course  to  go,  were  joyful  consola- 
tions to  us;  and  our  animals  enjoyed  the 
oeaten  track  like  ourselvee .  Relieved  fmm 
Uie  rocks  and  brush,  our  wild  mules  started 
off  at  a  rapid  rate,  and  in  fifteen  miles  we 
reached  a  considerable  river,  timbered  with 
Cottonwood  and  willow,  where  we  found  a 
bottom  of  tolerable  grass.  As  the  animals 
had  suffered  a  groat  deal  in  the  last  few  days, 
I  remained  here  all  next  day,  to  allow  them 
the  necessary  repose ;  and  it  was  now  ne- 
cessary, at  every  favorable  place,  to  make  a 
little  halt.  Between  us  and  tlie  Colorado 
river  we  were  aware  that  the  country  was  ex- 
tremely poor  in  grass,  and  scarce  for  water, 
there  being  many  ^omadas  (day's  journey), 
or  long  stretches  ot  forty  to  sixty  miles,  with- 
out water,  where  the  road  was  marked  by 
bones  of  animals, 
«<  Although  in  California  we  had  met  with 


(leoplo  who  had  pHHHed  over  tliit  trail,  wo  imd 
Imh-u  altio  to  obtain  no  correct  inlormation 
alHiut  it ;  and  tho  greater  part  uf  what  we 
hud  heard  wan  roun<l  to  Ixi  only  a  tiaiuo  of 
faUuhoods,  The  riviTH  tlutt  vvu  found  on  it 
wore  ncrcr  inciitiuuctl,Bnd  others,  |)articular- 
ly  doKcribod  in  namo  and  locality,  worn  sub- 
se<|ucutiy  seen  in  another  piirt  of  the  coun- 
try. It  was  dei<cri()ed  as  u  tolerably  good 
Hundy  road,  with  no  litlio  rock  as  scarcely  to 
require  tho  nniuiul.t  to  bo  shoil ;  and  we  found 
it  the  roiighoHt  and  rockiest  roud  we  liadevor 
seen  ill  tho  country,  and  which  nearly  do- 
stroyed  our  band  ol  line  mules  and  horses, 
Muny  animals  are  doMtroyed  on  it  ovory  year 
by  u  disease  called  tho  foot  evil ;  and  a  tra- 
veller should  never  venture  on  it  without 
having  his  animals  well  shod,an((  also  carry- 
ing extra  shoes. 

latitude  34°  34'  1 1 ";  and  longitude  Wl" 
13'  00". 

The  morning  of  the  'l-iA  was  cloar  and 
bright,  and  asnowy  |)cak  to  tlio  southward 
shone  out  hlh  and  sliarply  d'-lined.  As  has 
been  usual  since  wo  crossed  the  mountains 
and  descended  into  tho  hot  plains,  we  had  s 
gale  uf  wind.  Wo  travelloii  down  the  right 
bank  of  the  stream,  over  sands  which  are 
somewhat  loose,  and  have  no  verdure,  but 
are  occupied  by  various  shrubs.  A  cleat 
bold  stream,  60  feet  wide,  and  several  foot 
deep,  had  u  strange  appearance,  running  be- 
tween perfectly  naked  banks  of  sand.  The 
eye,  however,  is  somewhat  relieved  by  wil- 
lows, and  the  beautiful  greeu  of  the  sweet 
cottonwoods  with  which  it  Is  well  wooded, 
Ab  we  followed  along  its  course,  the  river, 
instead  of  growing  constantly  larger,  gradu- 
ally dwindled  away,  as  it  was  ahsorwd  by 
tho  sand.  We  were  now  careful  to  take  the 
old  camping  places  of  the  annual  Santa  Fi 
caravans,  which,  luckil)  for  us,  had  not  yet 
made  their  yearly  passage.  A  drove  of  se- 
veral thousand  horses  and  mules  would  en- 
tirely have  swept  away  the  scanty  grass  at 
the  watering  places,  and  we  shoind  have 
been  obliged  to  leave  the  road  to  obtain  sub- 
sistence for  our  animals.  After  riding  20 
miles  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  we  found 
an  old  encampment,  where  we  halted. 

By  observation,  the  elevation  of  this  en- 
campment is  2,250  feet. 

April  23. — The  trail  followed  still  along 
the  river,  which,  in  the  course  of  the  morn- 
ing, entirely  disappeared.  We  continued 
along  the  dry  bed,  in  which,  after  an  interval 
of  about  16  miles,  the  water  reappeared  in 
some  low  places,  well  timbered  with  cotton- 
wood  and  willow,  where  was  another  of  the 
customary  camping  grounds.  Here  a  party 
of  six  Indians  came  into  camp,  poor  and  hun- 
gry, and  quite  in  keeping  with  the  character 
of  the  country.  Their  arms  were  bows  of 
unusual  length,  and  each  h8.d  a  large  gouid, 


11841 

NNt'd  i)vi>r  tlii.-i  trail,  wo  had 
ill  no  mrrect  iiilurmatinn 
((reatrr  purl  uf  what  wo 
111(1  to  Ini  only  a  tiiiiio  of 
rivertt  itiut  vvu  found  on  It 
iif!il,  uiiil  otlieri,  iwrticuiar- 
no  iind  locality,  worn  nub- 
another  p:irt  oi'  the  cuun< 
■ilx-d  an  a  tolerably  awA 

0  litllu  ruck  aH  Hcarcoly  to 
K  to  bo  hIioiI  ;  and  wo  found 

rockicMt  roiid  we  had  over 
ry,  and  which  noftrly  do- 
1)1'  lino  iniilcii  and  homca. 

doHtroycd  on  it  every  year 

1  tho  foot  evil ;  and  a  tra> 
er  venture  on  it  without 
i  well  shod,  an4  alio  carry- 

'  11";  and  longitude  117" 

f  the  'JJd  wna  cloar  and 
vy  peak  lu  tho  southward 
[J  Hliarply  ddincd.  As  has 
we  croHHcd  the  mountains 
u  the  hot  plains,  we  had  a 
e  travellou  down  the  right 
m,  over  sands  which  are 
ind  inive  no  verdure,  but 
various  shrubs.  A  cleat 
3et  wide,  and  several  feet 
re  ai'pearunce,  running  be- 
ikeJ  banks  of  sand.  The 
lumewhat  celieved  by  wil- 
lutiful  greeu  of  the  sweet 
wliich  it  is  well  wooded, 
long  its  course,  the  river, 
g  constantly  larger,  gradu- 
ly,  as  it  was  ahsor^d  by 
ere  now  careful  to  take  the 
9H  of  the  annual  Santa  Fi 
luckily  for  us,  had  not  yet 
'  passage.  A  drove  of  se- 
irses  and  mules  would  en- 
away  the  scanty  grass  at 
ces,  and  we  shoiud  have 
ive  the  road  to  obtain  sub- 
animals.  After  riding  30 
utterly  direction,  we  found 
nt,  where  wo  baited. 
,  the  elevation  of  this  en- 
0  feet. 

!  trail  fallowed  still  along 
n  the  course,  of  the  morn- 
ppeared.  We  continued 
,  In  which,  after  an  interval 
I,  the  water  reappeared  in 
well  timbered  with  cotton- 
where  was  another  of  the 
ig  grounds.  Here  a  party 
le  into  camp,  poor  and  bun- 
keeping  with  the  character 
Their  arms  were  bows  of 
nd  each  haxl  a  large  gourd, 


1844.1 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


itrsngthened  with  meshes  of  cord,  in  which 
he  carried  wnler.  They  proved  to  be  the 
Mohahvo  Indians  me^ntioned  by  our  recent 

guide ;  ami  from  one  of  them  who  spoke 
panish  fluently,  t  obtained  some  interesting 
informatiun,  which  I  would  be  glad  to  intro- 
duce here.  An  account  of  the  people  inha- 
biting this  region  would  undoubtedly  possess 
interest  for  the  civilized  world.  Our  jo\irney 
homeward  was  fruitful  in  incident ;  and  the 
country  through  which  we  travelled,  although 
a  desert,  atlorded  much  to  excite  the  curiosi- 
ty of  tho  botanist ;  but  limited  time,  and  the 
rapidly  advincing  season  for  active  opera- 
tions, obligi  me  to  omit  all  extended  descrip- 
tions, ana  hurry  briefly  to  the  conclusion  of 
this  report. 

The  Indian  who  spoke  Spanish  had  been 
educated  for  a  number  of  years  at  one  of  the 
Spanish  missions,  and,  at  the  breaking  up  of 
those  estahliAhments,  had  returned  to  the 
mountains,  where  he  had  been  found  by  a 
party  of  Mohahve  (sometimes  allied  Amu- 
iht^Mi)  Indians,  among  whom  he  had  ever 
iiince  resided. 

He  spoke  of  the  leaderof  the  present  par- 
ty as  "  fnt  amo  "  (my  master).  He  said  tney 
lived  upon  a  large  river  in  the  southeast, 
which  the  "soldiers  called  the  Rio  Colora- 
do ;"  but  that,  form;  '_, ,  a  portion  of  them 
lived  npon  this  river,  and  among  the  moun- 
tains which  had  be  Jiided  the  river  valley  to 
the  northward  durmg  the  day,  and  that  here 
tlong  tho  river  theyliad  raised  various  kinds 
tf  melons.  I'hcy  Sometimes  came  over  to 
trade  with  the  Indians  of  the  Sierra,  bringing 
with  them  blankets  and  goods  manufactured 
bv  the  Monquis  and  other  Colorado  Indians. 
Thev  rareN  carried  home  hones,  on  account 
of  tlie  dimculty  of  getting  them  across  the 
desert,  and  of*^  guarding  them  afterwards 
from  the  Pa-utah  Indians,  who  inhabit  the 
Sierra,  at  tlie  head  of  the  Rio  Virgen  (river 
of  the  Virgin.) 

He  informed  as  that,  a  short  distance  be- 
low, this  river  finally  disappeared.  The  two 
different  portions  in  which  water  is  found  had 
received  from  the  priests  two  difllerent  names ; 
and  subsequently  I  heard  it  called  by  the 
Spaniards  the  Rio  di  las  Animas,  but  on  the 
map  we  have  called  it  the  Mohahve  river. 

April  24. — ^We  continued  down  the  stream 
(or  rather  its  beJ)  for  about  eight  miles, 
where  there  was  water  still  in  several  holes, 
and  encamped.  Tho  caravans  sometimes 
continue  below,  to  the  end  of  the  river,  from 
which  there  is  a  very  long  jomada  of  per- 
haps sixty  miles,  without  water.  Here  a 
lingular  and  new  species  of  acacia,  with  spi- 
ral pods  or  seed  vessels,  made  its  first  appear- 
ance ;  becoming  henceforward,  for  a  consi- 
derable distance,  a  characterif^tic  tree.  It 
was  here  comparatively  large,  being  about 
30  feet  in  height,  with  a  full  and  spreading 

11 


top,  the  lower  branches  doclining  towanis 
the  ground.  It  afterwards  occiirreuof  smaller 
size,  frenuently  in  groves,  and  is  very  fra 
grant.  It  has  been  calli'd  by  i>r.  'lurroy 
smroliibium  ndnralum.  The  zygophyllaceons 
snrub  had  boon  constantly  cliarHCtoriitin  of 
the  plait's  along  the  river;  and  here,  among 
many  new  plants,  a  new  and  very  remarka- 
ble species  of  eriogonum  (eriDgnnum  infla- 
turn,  Torr.  ii  Frcm.)  made  its  first  ap|ioar> 
ancc. 

Our  cattle  had  become  so  tired  ai '  po  .■ 
by  this  fatiguing  travelling,  tha*.  thiee  of 
them  wore  killed  hero,  and  the  moat  dried. 
The  Indians  had  now  an  occasion  for  a  great 
feast,  and  were  occupied  the  remainder  of 
the  diay  and  all  the  night  in  cooking  and  eat- 
ing. Tliere  was  no  part  of  the  animal  for 
which  they  did  not  find  some  use,  except  the 
bones.  In  the  afternoon  we  were  surpriucd 
by  the  sudden  appearance  in  tho  camp  of  two 
Mexicans — a  man  and  a  boy.  The  name  of 
tho  man  was  Andreas  Fuentes;  and  that  of 
the  boy  (a  handsome  lad,  1 1  years  old),  Pa- 
blo Hemandex.  They  belopjed  to  a  party 
consisting  of  six  persons,  the  remaining  four 
being  the  wife  of  Fuentes,  and  the  father 
and  mother  of  Pablo,  and  Santiago  Giacome, 
a  resident  of  New  Mexico.  With  a  caval- 
cade of  about  thiu,  horses,  they  had  come 
out  from  Puebia  de  los  Angeles,  near  the 
coast,  under  the  guidance  of  Giacome,  in 
advance  of  the  great  caravan,  in  order  to 
travel  more  at  leisure,  and  obtain  better  g<^8^\ 
Having  advanced  as  far  into  the  dbsert  as 
was  considered  consistent  with  their  safety, 
they  lialted  at  the  Archilelle,  one  of  the  cus- 
tomary camping  grounds,  about  80  miles 
from  our  encampment,  where  there  is  a  spring 
of  good  water,  with  sufficient  grass ;  and 
concluded  to  await  there  the  arrival  of  the 
great  Caravan.  Several  Indians  were  soon 
discovered  lurking  about  the  camp,  who,  in 
a  day  or  two  after,  came  in,  and,  after  behav- 
ing in  a  very  friendly  manner,  took  their 
leave,  without  awakening  any  suspicions. 
Their  deportment  begat  a  security  which 
proved  fatal.  In  a  few  days  afterwards,  sud- 
denly a  party  of  about  one  hundred  Indians 
appeared  in  sight,  advancing  towards  the 
camp.  It  was  too  late,  or  they  seemed  not 
to  have  presence  of  mind  to  take  proper 
measures  of  safety ;  and  the  Indians  charged 
down  into  their  camp,  shouting  as  they  ad- 
vanced, and  discharging  flights  of  arrows. 
Pablo  and  Fuentes  were  on  norse  guard  at 
the  time,  and  mounted  according  to  the 
custom  of  the  country.  One  of  the  princi- 
pal objects  of  the  Indians  was  to  get  posses- 
sion of  the  horses,  and  part  of  them  imme- 
diately surrounded  the  band ;  but,  in  ohe^';- 
ence  tothe  shouts  of  Giacome,  Fuentes  dro;;' 
the  animals  over  and  through  the  assailants^ 
in  spite  of  their  arrows ;  and,  abandoning  th* 


li 


-ill 


jjitff'^' 


i«a 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1844. 


rest  to  their  fate,  carried  them  ofT  at  speed 
across  the  plain.  Knowing  that  they  would 
be  pursued  by  the  Indians,  without  making 
any  halt  except  to  shift  their  saddles  to  other 
horses,  they  drove  them  on  for  about  sixty 
miles,  and  this  morning  left  them  at  a  water- 
ing place  on  (he  trail,  called  Agua  de  To- 
maso.  Without  giving  themselves  any  time 
for  rest,  they  hurried  on,  hoping  to  meet  the 
Spanish  Caravan,  when  they  discovered  my 
camp.  I  received  them  kindly,  taking  them 
into  my  own  mess,  artd  promised  them  such 
aid  as  circumstances  might  put  it  in  my 
power  to  give. 

April  26. — We  left  the  river  abruptly,  and, 
turnmg  to  the  north,  regained  in  a  few  miles 
the  main  trail  (which  had  left  the  river  sooner 
than  ourselves),  and  continued  our  way 
across  a  lower  ridge  of  the  mountain,  through 
a  miserable  tract  of  sand  and  gravel.  We 
crossed  at  intervals  the  broad  beds  of  dry 
gullies,  where  in  the  season  of  rains  and 
melting  snows  there  would  be  brooks  or  rivu- 
lets ;  and  at  one  of  these,  where  there  was 
no  indication  of  water,  were  several  freshly- 
dug  holes,  in  which  there  was  water  at  the 
depth  of  two  feet  These  holes  had  been 
dug  by  the  wolves,  whose  keen  sense  of  smell 
had  scented  the  water  under  the  dry  sand. 
They  were  nice  little  wells,  narrow,  and  dug 
straight  down,  and  we  got  pleasant  water 
out  of  them. 

The  country  had  now  assumed  the  cha- 
racter of  an  elevated  and  mountainous  de- 
sert ;  its  general  features  being  black,  rocky 
ridges,  bald,  and  destitute  of  timber,  with 
sandy  basins  between.  Where  the  sides  of 
these  ridges  are  washed  by  gullies,  the  plains 
below  are  strewed  with  beds  of  large  pebbles 
or  polled  stones,  destructive  to  our  soft-footed 
animals,  accustomed  to  the  grassy  plains 
of  the  Sacramento  valley.  Through  these 
sandy  basins  sometimes  struggled  a  scanty 
stream,  or  occurred  a  hole  of  water,  which 
furnished  camping  grounds  for  travellers. 
Frequently  in  our  journey  across,  snow  was 
visible  on  the  surrounding  mountains ;  but 
their  waters  rarely  reached  the  sandy  plain 
below,  where  we  toiled  along,  oppressed  with 
thirst  and  a  burning  sun.  But,  throughout 
this  nakedness  of  sand  and  ^vel,  were  many 
beautiful  plants  and  flowering  shrubs,  which 
occurred  in  many  new  species,  and  with 
greater  variety  than  we  had  been  accustom- 
ed to  see  in  the  most  luxuriant  prairie  coun- 
tries ;  this  was  a  peculiarity  of  this  desert. 
Even  where  no  grass  would  take  root,  the 
naked  sand  would  bloom  with  some  rich  and 
rare  flower,  which  found  its  appropriate  home 
in  the  arid  and  barren  spot. 

Scattered  over  the  plain,  and  tolerably 
abundant,  was  a  handsome  leguminous  shrub, 
three  or  four  feet  high,  with  fine  bright-pur- 
ple flowers.    It  is  a  new  pioralea,  and  oc- 


curred frequently  henceforward  along  ou 
road. 

Beyond  the  first  ridge,  our  road  bore  a  li^ 
tie  to  the  east  oi  north,  towards  a  gap  in  a 
higher  line  of  mountains ;  and,  after  travel- 
ling about  twenty-five  miles,  we  arrived  at 
the  Agua  de  Tomaso — the  spring  where  th« 
horses  had  been  left;  but,  as  we  expected, 
they  were  gone.    A  brief  examination  of  th« 

f round  convinced  us  that  they  had  been 
riven  off  by  the  Indians.  Carson  and 
Godey  volunteered  with  the  Mexican  to  pur- 
sue tiiem ;  and,  well  mounted,  the  three  set 
off  on  the  trail.  At  this  stopping  place  there 
were  a  few  bushes  and  very  little  grass.  Itf 
water  was  a  pool ;  but  near  by  was  a  spring, 
which  had  been  dug  out  by  Indians  or  trav- 
ellers. Its  water  was  cool — a  great  refresh- 
ment to  us  under  a  burning  sun. 

In  the  evening  Fucntes  returned,  his  horse 
having  failed;  but  Carson  and  Godey  had 
continued  the  pursuit. 

I  observed  to-night  an  occultation  of  a< 
Cancri,  at  the  dark  limb  of  the  moon,  which 
gives  for  the  longitude  of  the  place  116°  23' 
28";  the  latitude,  by- observation,  is  36°  13' 
08".  From  Helvetia  to  this  place,  the  posi- 
tions along  the  intervening  line  are  laid  down 
with  the  longitudes  obtained  from  the  chro- 
nometer, which  appears  to  liave  retained  ita 
rate  remarkably  well ;  but  henceforward,  to 
tlie  end  of  the  journey,  the  few  longitudei 
given  are  absolute,  depending  upon  a  subse- 
quent occultation  and  eclipses  of  the  satel- 
lites. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  a  war- 
whoop  was  heard,  such  as  Indians  make 
when  returning  from  a  victorious  enterprise, 
6.ad  soon  Carson  and  Giodey  appeared,  driv- 
ing before  them  a  band  of  horses,  recognized 
^  Fuentes  to  be  part  of  those  they  had  lost 
Two  bloody  scalps,  dangling  from  the  end  o' 
Godey's  gun,  announced  that  they  had  over 
taken  the  Indians  as  well  as  the  horsea 
They  informed  us,  that  after  Fuentes  le6 
them,  from  the  failure  of  his  horse,  they  con- 
tinued the  pursuit  alone,  and  towards  night- 
fall entered  the  mountains,  into  which  the 
trail  led.  After  sunset  the  moon  gave  light, 
and  they  followed  the  trail  by  moonshine 
until  late  in  the  night,  when  it  entered  a  nar- 
row defile,  and  was  difficult  to  follow.  Afraid 
of  losing  it  in  the  darknem  of  the  defile,  they 
tied  up  Uieir  horses,  struck  no  fire,  and  la; 
down  to  sleep  in  silence  and  in  darkness. 
Here  they  lay  from  midnight  till  morning. 
At  daylight  they  resumed  the  pursuit,  and 
about  sunrise  discovered  the  horses;  an^ 
immediately  dismounting  and  tying  up  theii 
own,  they  crept  cav  piously  to  a  rising  ground 
which  intervened,  from  the  crest  of  whick 
they  perceived  the  encampment  of  four  lodgei 
ckise  by.  They  proceeded  quietly,  and  mi 
got  within  thirty  or  forty  yards  of  their  ^ 


B. 


[1844. 


^  henceforward  along  oni 

St  ridse,  our  road  bore  a  lit< 
north,  towards  a  gap  in  a 
Duntains ;  and,  alter  travel- 
;y-five  miles,  we  arrived  at 
naso— the  spring  where  th« 
left;  but,  as  we  expected, 
A  brief  examination  of  the 
id  us  that  they  had  been 
he  Indians.  Carson  and 
;d  with  the  Mexican  to  pur- 
well  mounted,  the  three  set 
At  this  stopping  place  there 
!8  and  very  little  grass.  Itt 
\ ;  but  near  by  was  a  spring, 
dug  out  by  Indians  or  trav- 
r  was  cool — a  great  refresh- 

■  a  burning  sun. 

',  Fuentes  returned,  his  horse 
)ut  Carson  and  Godey  had 
irsuit. 

-night  an  occultation  of  a' 
irk  limb  of  the  moon,  which 
gitude  of  the  place  116"  23' 
le,  by- observation,  is  36°  13' 
Ivetia  to  this  place,  the  poei* 
itervening  line  are  laid  down 
des  obtained  from  the  chro- 
appears  to  have  retained  ita 
well ;  but  henceforward,  to 
ourney,  the  few  longitudet 
ite,  depending  upon  a  subae- 
>n  and  eclipses  of  the  satel- 

oon  of  the  next  day,  a  war- 
ird,  Buch  as  Indians  make 
from  a  victorious  enterprise, 
n  and  Godey  appeared,  driv- 
a  band  of  horses,  recognized 
e  part  of  those  they  had  lost. 
Ips,  dangling  from  the  end  o' 
inounced  that  they  had  oven 
ms  as  well  as  the  horses, 
us,  that  alter  Fuentes  let 
failure  of  his  horse,  they  con- 
lit  alone,  and  towards  night- 
mountains,  into  which  the 

■  sunset  the  moon  gave  light, 
red  the  trail  by  moonshine 
night,  when  it  entered  a  nar- 
vas  difficult  to  follow.  Afraid 
lie  darkness  of  the  defile,  they 
irses,  struck  no  fire,  and  laj 
in  silence  and  in  darkness, 
from  midnight  till  morning. 
!y  resumed  the  pursuit,  and 
liscovered  the  horses;  a.ni, 
mounting  and  tying  up  theii 
cai  liousTy  to  a  rising  ground 
ed,  from  the  crest  of  whick 
he  encampment  of  four  lodgei 
'y  proceeded  quietly,  and  htA 
ty  or  forty  yards  of  their  ^ 


1844.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


16S 


jett,  when  a  movement  among  the  horses 
discovered  them  to  the  Indians;  giving  the 
war  adout,  they  instantly  charged  into  the 
camp,  regardless  of  the  number  which  the 
four  lodges  would  imply.    The  Indians  re- 
ceived them  with  a  flight  of  arrows  shot 
from  thoir  long  bows,  one  of  which  passed 
through  Godey  8  shirt  collar,  liarely  missing 
the  neck ;  our  men  fired  their  rifles  upon  a 
steady  aim,  and  rushed  in.    Two  Indians 
were  stretched  on  the  ground,  fx.tally  pierced 
With  bullets ;  the  rest  ned,  except  a  lad  that 
was  captured.      The  sralps  of  the  fallen 
were  instantly  stripped  off;  but  in  the  pro- 
cess, one  of  them,  who  had  two  balls  through 
his  body,  sprung  to  his  feet,  the  blood  stream- 
ing from  his  sitinned  head,  and  uttering  a 
hideous  howl.     An  old  squaw,  possibly  his 
mother,  stopped  and  loikcd  back  from  the 
mountain  side  she  was  climbing,  threatening 
and  lamenting.    The  frightful  spectacle  ap- 
palled the  stout  hearts  of  our  men ;  but  they 
did  what  humanity  required,  and  quickly  ter- 
minated the  agonies  of  the  gory  aava^. 
They  were  now  masters  of  the  camp,  which 
was  a  pretty  little  recess  in  the  mountain, 
with  a  fine  spring,  and  apparently  safe  from 
all  invasion.    Great  preparations  had  been 
made  to  feast  a  large  party,  for  it  was  a  very 
proper  place  for  a  rendezvous,  and  for  the 
celebration  of  such  orgies  as  robbers  of  the 
desert  would  delight  in.     Several  of  the  best 
horses  had  been  killed,  skinned,  and  cut  up ; 
for  the  Indians  living  in  mountains,  and  only 
coming  into  the  plains  to  rob  and  murder, 
make  m  other  use  of  horses  than  to  eat  them, 
iiarge  earthen  vessels  were  on  the  fire, boiling 
and  stewing  the  horse  beef;  and  several  bas- 
kets, containing  fifty  or  sixty  pairs  of  mocca- 
■ina,  indicated  the  presence,  or  expectation, 
of  a  considerable  party.    They  released  the 
boy,  who  had  given  strong  evidence  of  the 
stoicism,  or  something  else,  of  the  savage 
character,  in  commencing  his  breakfast  upon 
a  horse's  head  as  soon  as  he  found  he  was 
not  to  be  killed,  but  only  tied  as  a  prisoner. 
Their  object  accomplished,  our  men  gathered 
up  all  the  surviving  horses,  fifteen  in  number, 
returned  upon  their  trail,  and  rejoined  us  at  our 
camp  in  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day.   They 
had  rode  about  100  miles  in  the  pursuit  and 
rctnm,andaU  in  thirty  hours.  The  time,  place, 
object,  and  numbers,  considered,  this  expedi- 
tion of  Carson  and  Godey  may  be  consiaered 
among  the  boldest  and  most  disinterested 
which  the  annals  of  western  adventure,  so 
full  of  daring  deeds,  can  present.    Two  men, 
in  a  savage  desert,  pursue  day  and  night  an 
unknown  body  of  Indians  into  the  delles  of 
an  unknown  mountain — attack  them  on  sight, 
without  counting  numbers — and  defeat  them 
in  an  instant — and  for  what?    To  punish 
the  robbers  of  the  desert,  and  to  avenge  the 
wraogB  of  Mexicans  whom  they  dra  not 


know.  I  repeat :  it  was  Carson  and  Godey 
who  did  this — the  former  an  American,  bom 
in  the  Boonslick  county  of  Missouri ;  the  lat> 
ter  a  Frenchman,  born  in  St.  Louis — an<f 
both  trained  to  western  enterprise  from  early 
life. 

By  the  information  of  Fuentes,  we  had 
now  to  make  a  long  stretch  of  forty  or  fifty 
miles  across  a  plain  which  lay  between  us 
and  the  next  possible  camp ;  and  we  resum- 
ed our  journey  late  in  the  afternoon,  with  the 
intention  of  travelling  through  the  night, 
and  avoiding  the  excessive  heat  of  the  day, 
which  was  oppressive  to  our  animals.  For 
several  hours  we  travelled  across  a  high 
plain,  passing,  at  the  opposite  side,  through 
a  caiion  by  the  bed  of  a  creek  running 
northwardly  into  a  small  lake  beyond,  and 
both  of  them  being  dry.  We  had  a  warm, 
moonshiny  night;  and,  travelling  directly 
towards  the  north  star,  we  journeye<l  now 
across  an  open  plain  between  mountain 
ridges ;  that  on  the  left  being  broken,  rocky, 
and  bald,  according  to  the  information  of 
Carson  and  Godey,  who  had  entered  here  in 
pursuit  of  the  horses.  The  plain  appeared  co- 
vered principally  with  the  zygophyllum  Vali- 
fomicum  already  mentioned ;  and  the  line 
of  our  road  was  marked  by  the  skeletons  of 
horses,  which  were  strewed  to  a  considera- 
ble breadth  over  the  plain.  We  were  after- 
wards always  warned,  on  entering  one  of 
these  long  stretches,  by  the  bones  of  these 
animals,  which  had  prished  before  they  could 
reach  the  water.  About  midnight  we  reach- 
ed a  considerable  stream  bed,  now  dry,  the 
discharge  of  the  waters  of  this  basin  (when 
it  collected  any),  down  which  we  descended 
in  a  northwesterly  direction.  The  creek 
bed  was  overgrown  with  shrubbery,  and  se- 
veral hours  tefore  day  it  brought  us  to  the 
entrance  of  a  canon,  where  we  found  water, 
and  encamped.  This  word  caMon  is  used 
by  the  Spaniards  to  signify  a  defile  or  gorge 
in  a  creek  or  river,  where  high  rocks  press 
in  close,  and  make  a  narrow  way,  usually 
difficult,  and  often  impossible  to  be  passed. 
In  the  niorning  we  found  that  we  had  s 
very  poor  camping  ground:  a  swampy, 
salty  spot,  witli  a  littie  long,  unwholesome 
grass ;  and  the  water,  which  rose  in  springs, 
being  useful  only  to  wet  the  mouth,  but  en- 
tirely too  salt  to  drink.  All  around  was 
Sana  and  rocks,  and  skeletons  of  horses 
which  had  not  been  able  to  find  support  for 
their  lives.  As  we  were  about  to  start,  we 
found,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  hundred 
yards,  among  the  hills  to  the  southward,  a 
spring  of  toferably  good  water,  which  was  a 
relief  to  ourselves ;  but  the  place  was  too  poor 
to  remain  long,  and  therefore  we  continued 
on  this  morning.  On  the  creek  were  thick- 
ets of  ipirolobiutn  odoratum  (acacia)  ia 
bloom,  and  very  fragrant. 


4 


-•M 


I 


194 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


ri844 


Passing  through  the  canon,  we  entered 
another  sandy  basin,  through  which  the  dry 
stream  bed  continued  its  northwesterly 
course,  in  which  direction  appeared  a  hign 
■nowy  mountain. 

We  travelled  through  a  barren  district, 
where  a  heavy  gale  was  blowing  about 
the  loose  sand,  &nd,  after  a  ride  of  eight 
miles,  reached  a  large  creek  of  salt  and  bit- 
ter water,  running  in  a  westerly  direction, 
to  receive  the  stream  bed  we  had  left.  It  is 
called  by  the  Spaniards  Amargosa — the  bit- 
ter water  of  the  desert.  Where  we  struck 
it,  the  stream  bends ;  and  we  continued  in  a 
northerly  course  up  the  ravine  of  its  valley, 
passing  on  the  way  a  fork  from  the  right, 
near  which  occurred  a  bed  of  plants,  con- 
sisting of  a  remarkable  new  genus  of  cruci- 
fertB. 

(Gradually  ascending,  the  ravine  opened 
into  a  green  valley,  where,  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  were  springs  of  excellent  water. 
We  encamped  among  groves  of  the  new 
acacia,  and  tliere  was  an  abundance  of  good 
grass  for  the  animals. 

This  was  the  best  camping  ground  we  had 
seen  since  we  struck  the  Spanish  trail.  The 
day's  journey  was  about  twelve  miles. 

April  29. — To-day  we  had  to  reach  the 
Archilelte,  distant  seven  miles,  where  the 
Mexican  party  had  been  attacked  ;  and  leav- 
ing our  encampment  early,  we  traversed  a 
part  of  the  desert,  the  most  sterile  and  repul- 
sive that  we  had  yet  seen.  Its  prominent 
features  were  dark  sierras,  naked  and  dry ; 
on  the  plains  a  few  straggline  shrubs— 
among  them,  cactus  of  several  varieties. 
Fuentes  pointed  out  one  called  by  the  Span- 
iards bisnada,  which  has  a  juicy  pulp,  slight- 
ly acid,  and  is  eaten  by  the  traveller  to  allay 
thirst.  Our  course  was  general!;;  north ; 
and,  after  crossing  an  intervening  ridge,  we 
descended  into  a  sandy  plain,  or  basin,  in  the 
middle  of  which  was  the  grassy  spot,  with 
its  springs  and  willow  bushes,  which  consti- 
tutes a  camping  place  in  the  desert,  and  is 
called  the  Archilelte.  The  dead  silence  of 
the  place  was  ominous ;  and,  galloping  ra- 
pidly up,  we  found  only  the  corpses  of  the 
two  men :  everything  else  was  gone.  They 
were  naked,  mutilat»i,  and  pierced  with  ar- 
rows. Hernandez  had  evidently  fought,  and 
with  desperation.  He  lay  in  advance  of  the 
willow  half-faced  tent,  which  sheltered  his 
family,  as  if  he  had  come  out  to  meet  dan- 
ger, and  to  repulse  it  from  that  asylum.  One 
of  his  hands,  and  both  bis  legs,  had  been  cut 
off.  Giacome,  who  was  a  large  and  strong 
looking  man,  was  lying  in  one  of  the  willow 
■helters,  pierced  with  arrows.  Of  the 
women  no  trace  could  be  found,  and  it  was 
evident  they  iiad  been  carried  off  captive. 
A  little  lap-dog,  which  hau  belonged  to  Pa- 
Uo'a  mother,  remained  with  the  dead  bodies, 


and  was  frantic  with  joy  at  seeing  Pablo 
he,  poor  child,  was  frantic  with  grief;  and 
filled  the  air  with  lamentations  for  his  father 
and  mother.  Mi  padre!  Mimadre! — wai 
his  incessant  cry.  When  we  beheld  this 
pitiable  sight,  and  pictured  to  ourselves  the 
fate  of  the  two  women,  carried  off  by  sava- 
ges so  brutal  and  so  loathsome,  all  compunc- 
tion for  thescalped-alive  Indian  ceased;  and 
we  rejoiced  that  Carson  and  Crodey  had  been 
able  to  give  so  useful  a  lesson  to  thest 
American  Arabs,  who  lie  in  wait  to  murder 
aiid  plunder  the  innocent  traveller. 

We  were  all  too  much  affected  by  the  sad 
feelings  which  the  place  inspired,  to  remain 
an  unnecessary  moment.  The  night  we 
were  obliged  to  paDS  there.  Early  in  the 
morning  we  left  i',  having  first  written  i 
orief  account  of  what  had  happened,  and  pu 
it  in  the  cleft  of  a  pole  planted  at  the  spring, 
that  the  approaching  caravan  might  learii 
the  fate  of  their  triends.  In  commemoratioa 
of  the  event,  we  called  the  place  Agua  de 
Hernandez — Hernandez's  sprmg.  By  obser 
vation,  iU  latitude  was  36«  51'  21". 

April  30.—  We  continued  our  journey  over 
a  district  similar  to  that  of  the  day  before. 
From  the  sandy  basin,  in  which  was  the 
spring,  we  entered  another  basin  of  the  same 
character,  surrounded  everywhere  by  moun- 
tains. Before  us  stretched  a  high  range, 
rising  still  higher  to  the  left,  and  terminating 
in  a  snowy  mountain. 

After  a  day's  march  of  24  miles,  we  reached 
at  evening  the  bed  of  a  stream  from  which  the 
water  had  disappeared ;  a  little  only  remained 
in  holes,  which  we  increased  by  digging; 
and  about  a  mile  above,  the  stream,  not  yet 
entirely  sunk,  was  spread  out  over  the  sands, 
affording  a  little  water  for  the  animals.  The 
stream  came  out  of  the  mountains  on  the 
left,  very  slightly  wooded  with  cottonwood, 
willow,  and  acacia,  and  a  few  dwarf  oaks ; 
and  grass  was  nearly  as  scarce  as  water.  A 
plant  with  showy  yellow  flowers  (Stanleya 
integrifolia)  occurred  abundantly  at  intervals 
for  'he  last  two  days,  and  eriogonum  tn/Ia- 
tun.  was  among  the  characteristic  plants. 

May  1. — ^The  air  is  rough,  and  overcoats 
pleasant.  The  sky  is  blue,  and  the  day 
bright.  Our  road  was  over  ii,  plain,  towards 
the  foot  of  the  mountain;  zygophyllum 
Califomicum,  now  in  bloom  with  a  smah 
yellow  flowe*;  is  characteristic  of  the  coun- 
try ;  and  cacti  were  very  abundant,  and  in 
rich  fresh  bloom,  which  wonderfully  orna- 
ments this  poor  country.  We  encamped  at 
a  spring  in  the  pass,  which  had  l)een  the 
site  of  an  old  village.  Here  we  found  excel- 
lent grass,  but  very  little  water.  We  dug 
out  the  old  spring,  and  watered  some  of  our 
animals.  Tne  mountain  here  was  wooded 
very  slightly  with  the  nut  pine,  cedars,  and 
a  dwarf  species  of  oak;  and  among  tht 


E. 


ri844 


with  joy  at  seeing  Pablo 
f/aa  frantic  with  grief;  and 
I  lamentations  for  his  fathor 
H  padre!  Mitnadre! — wai 
y.  When  we  beheld  this 
d  pictured  to  ourselves  the 
women,  carried  off  by  aava- 
1  BO  loathsome,  all  compunc- 
ed-alive  Indian  ceased ;  and 
Carson  and  Crodey  had  been 
useful  a  lesson  to  thest 
,  who  lie  in  wait  to  murdsr 
innocent  traveller. 
00  much  affected  by  the  sad 
le  place  inspired,  to  remain 

moment.    The  night  we 

pa^s  there.  Early  in  the 
t  i',  having  first  written  i 
what  had  happened,  and  pu 
a  pole  planted  at  the  spring, 
cning  caravan  might  leark 
Irienas.    In  commemoratioa 

called  the  place  Agua  (k 
nandez's  sprmg.    By  obser 
le  wasSS'Sl'Sl". 
e  continued  our  journey  ovei 

to  that  of  the  day  before, 
r  basin,  in  which  was  the 
ed  another  basin  of  the  same 
inded  everywhere  by  moun- 
IS  stretched  a  high  range, 
r  to  the  left,  and  terminating 
itain. 

larch  of  24  miles,  we  reached 
d  of  a  stream  from  which  the 
eared ;  a  little  only  remained 

we  increased  by  digging; 

above,  the  stream,  not  yet 
18  spread  out  over  the  sands, 
water  for  the  animals.  The 
t  of  the  mountains  on  the 
f  wooded  with  cottonwood, 
iia,  and  a  few  dwarf  oaks ; 
sarly  as  scarce  as  water.  A 
y  yellow  flowers  (Stanleya 
irred  abundantly  at  intervals 

days,  and  eriogonum  in/Ia- 
the  characteristic  plants. 
air  is  rougli,  and  overcoats 
sky  is  blue,  and  the  day 
A  was  over  ii,  plain,  towards 
e  mountain ;  zygophyllum 
ow  in  bloom  with  a  smah 

characteristic  of  the  coun- 
ere  veiy  abundant,  and  in 
I,  which  wonderfully  orna- 
:ountry.    We  encamped  at 

pass,  which  had  been  the 
lage.  Here  we  found  excel- 
very  little  water.  We  dug 
g,  and  watered  some  of  our 
nountain  here  was  wooded 
h  the  nut  pine,  cedars,  and 
)  of  oak;  and  among  tht 


18U.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


in 


ihruba  were  Purshia  tridentala,  artemisia, 
Md  ephedra  occidentalis.  The  numerous 
ihruba  which  constitute  the  vegetation  cf 
(he  plains  are  now  in  bloom,  with  flowers  of 
white,  yellow,  red,  and  purple.  The  con- 
tinual rocks,  and  want  of  water  and  grass, 
begin  to  be  very  hard  on  our  mules  and 
horses ;  but  the  principal  loss  is  occasioned 
by  their  crippled  feet,  the  greater  part  of 
those  loft  being  in  excellent  order,  and 
scarcely  a  day  misses  without  some  loss; 
and,  one  by  one,  Fuentes's  horses  are  con- 
stantly dropping  behind.  Whenever  they 
give  out,  he  dismounts  and  cuts  off  their  tails 
and  manes,  to  make  saddle  gii  ths ;  the  last 
advantage  one  can  gain  from  t  nem. 

The  next  day,  in  a  short  lut  rough  ride 
of  12  miles,  we  crossed  the  > nountain;  and, 
descending  to  a  small  valley  plain,  encamped 
at  the  foot  of  the  ridge,  on  t'le  bed  of  a  creek, 
where  we  found  good  grass  in  sufficient 
quantity,  and  abundance  of  water  in  holes. 
The  ridge  is  extremely  rugged  and  broken, 
presenting  on  this  side  arontinucd  precipice, 
and  probably  aflbrds  very  few  passes.  Many 
digger  tracks  are  seen  around  us,  but  no  In- 
dians were  visible. 

May  3. — After  a  day's  journey  of  18  miles, 
in  a  northeasterly  direction,  we  encamped  in 
the  midst  of  another  very  large  basin,  at  a 
camping  ground  called  las  Vegas — a  term 
which  3te  Spaniards  use  to  signify  fertile  or 
marshy  plains,  in  contradistinction  to  llanos, 
which  they  apply  to  dry  and  sterile  plains. 
Two  narrow  streams  of  clear  water,  four  or 
five  feet  deep,  gush  suddenly,  with  a  quick 
current,  from  two  singularly  large  springs ; 
these,  and  other  waters  of  the  basin,  pass  out 
in  a  gap  to  the  eastward.  The  taste  of  the 
water  is  good,  but  rather  too  warm  to  be 
agreeable ;  the  temperature  being  71°  in  the 
one,  and  73"  in  the  other.  They,  however, 
affi>rded  a  delightful  bathing  place. 

May  4. — We  started  this  morning  earlier 
than  usual,  travelling  in  a  northeasterly  di< 


our  intolerable  thirst  while  journeying  over 
the  hot  yellow  sands  of  this  elevated  coun> 
try,  where  the  heated  air  seems  to  be  entire- 
ly deprived  of  moisture.  We  ate  occasion- 
ally the  bisnada,  and  moistened  our  mouths 
with  the  acid  of  the  sour  dock  {rumex  veno- 
sus).  Hourly  expecting  to  find  water,  we 
continued  to  press  on  until  towards  midnight, 
when,  after  a  hard  and  uninterrupted  march 
of  16  hours,  our  wild  mules  began  running 
ahead ;  and  in  a  mile  or  two  we  came  to  a 
bold  running  stream — so  keen  is  the  Bense 
of  that  animal,  in  these  desert  regions,  in 
scenting  at  a  distance  this  necessary  of  life. 

According  to  the  infoinuition  we  had  re- 
ceived, Sevier  river  was  a  tributary  of  the 
Colorado ;  and  tiiis,  accordingly,  should  have 
beep  one  of  its  affluents.  It  proved  to  be  the 
Rio  de  los  Armeies  (river  of  the  Angela) — a 
branch  of  the  Rio  Vtrgen  (river  of  the  Vir- 
gin). 

May  6. — ^)n  account  of  our  animals,  it 
was  necessa»y  to  remain  ti'-day  at  this  place. 
Indiana  crowded  numerous'y  around  us  in 
the  morning ;  and  we  were  .obliged  to  keep 
arms  in  hand  all  day,  to  keep  tnem  out  of 
the  camp.  They  began  to  surround  the 
horses,  which,  for  the  convenience  of  grass, 
we  were  guarding  a  little  above,  on  the  river. 
These  were  immediately  driven  in,  and  kept 
close  to  the  camp. 

In  the  darkness  of  the  night  we  had  made 
a  very  bad  encampment,  our  fires  being 
commanded  by  a  rocky  blufT  within  60  yards ; 
but,  notwithstanding,  we  had  the  river  and 
small  thickets  of  willows  on  the  other  side. 
Several  times  during  the  day  the  camp  was 
insulted  by  the  Indians ;  but,  peace  being  our 
object,  I  kept  simply  on  the  defensive.  Some 
of  the  Indians  were  on  the  bottoms,  and  others 
haranguing  us  from  the  bluffs ;  and  they  were 
scattered  in  every  direction  over  the  hills. 
Their  language  lieing  probably  a  dialect  of 
the  Utah,  with  the  aid  of  signs  some  of  our 
people  could  comprehend  them  very  well. 


rection  across  the  plain.    The  new  rcacia  |  They  were  the  same  people  who  had  mur- 


(spirolabium  odoralum)  has  now  become  the 
characteristic  tree  of  the  country;  it  is  in 
bloom,  and  its  blossoms  are  very  fragrant. 
The  day  was  still,  and  the  heat,  which  soon 
became  very  oppressive,  appeared  to  bring 
out  strongly  the  refreshing  scent  of  the 
zygophyllaceouB  shrubs  and  the  sweet  per- 
fume of  the  acacia.  The  snowy  ridge  we 
had  just  crossed  looked  out  conspicuously  in 
the  northwest.  In  about  five  hours'  ride,  we 
crossed  a  gap  in  the  surrounding  ridge,  and 
the  appearance  of  skeletons  of  horses  very 
aoon  warned  us  that  we  were  engaged  in 
another  dry  jomada,  which  proved  the  long- 
est we  had  made  in  all  our  journey — between 
fifty  and  sixty  miles  without  a  drop  of  water. 


dered  the  Mexicans;  and  towards  us  their 
disposition  was  evidently  hostile,  nor  were 
we  well  disposed  towards  them.  They  were 
barefooted,  and  nearly  naked ;  their  hair  gath- 
ered up  into  a  knot  behind ;  and  with  his 
bow,  each  man  carried  a  quiver  with  thirty 
or  forty  arrows  partially  drawn  out.  Besides 
these,  each  hela  in  his  hand  two  or  three  ar- 
rows for  instant  service.  Their  arrows  are 
barbed  with  a  very  clear  translucent  stone,  a 
species  of  opal,  nearly  as  hard  as  the  dia- 
mond ;  and,  shot  from  their  long  bow,  arc  al- 
most as  efibctive  as  %  gunshot.  In  these 
Indians,  I  was  forcibly  struck  by  an  expres- 
sion of  countenance  resembling  tliat  in  a 
beast  of  prey ;  and  all  their  actions  are  those 


I'ravelleni'  Uirough   countries'  affording   of  wild  animals.    Joined  to  the  restless  mo- 
wator  ud  timber  can  have  no  conception  of  '  tion  of  the  eye,  there  ia  a  want  of  mina— «■ 


u: 


7 1 


-  :i 

-  ;i 


,>4*' 


166 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1844. 


absence  of  thought — and  an  action  wholly 
by  impulse,  strongly  expressed,  and  which 
constantly  recalls  Uie  similarity. 

A  nil  p.  who  appeared  to  be  a  chief,  with 
two  or  three  others,  forced  himself  into  camp, 
bringing  witli  him  his  arms,  in  spite  of  my 
orden  to  the  contrary.  When  shown  our 
weapons,  he  bored  his  ear  with  his  fingers, 
and  said  he  could  not  hear.  "  Why,"  said 
he,  "  there  are  none  of  you."  Counting  the 
people  around  the  camp,  and  including  in  the 
number  a  mule  which  was  being  shod,  he 
made  out  22.  "  So  many,"  said  he,  showing 
the  number,  "  and  we — we  are  a  great 
many ;"  and  he  pointed  to  the  hills  and  moun- 
tains round  ahout.  "  If  you  have  your  arms," 
said  lie,  twanging  his  bow,"  we  have  these." 
I  had  some  diffiiulty  in  restraining  the  peo- 
ple, particularly  Carson,  who  felt  an  insult 
of  this  k;nd  as  much  as  if  it  had  been  given 
by  a  more  rpsponsible  being.  "  Don't  say 
that,  old  mar,,"  said  he ;  "  don't  you  say  that 
— ^your  life'd  in  danger  " — speaking  in  good 
English ;  and  probably  the  old  man  was 
nearer  tr.  his  end  than  he  will  be  before  he 
meets  it. 

Several  animals  had  been  necessarily  left 
behind  near  the  camp  last  night ;  and  early 
in  the  morning,  before  the  Indians  made  their 
appearance,  several  men  were  sent  to  bring 
them  in.  When  I  was  beginning  to  be  un- 
easy at  their  absence,  they  returned  with  in- 
formation that  they  had  been  driven  off  from 
the  trail  by  Indians ;  and,  having  followed 
the  tracks  in  a  short  distance,  they  found  the 
animals  cut  up  and  spread  out  upon  bushes. 
In  the  evening  I  gave  a  fatigued  horse  to 
some  of  the  Indians  for  a  feast ;  and  the  vil- 
lage which  carried  him  off  refused  to  share 
with  the  others,  who  made  loud  complaints 
from  the  rocks  of  the  partial  distribution. 
Many  of  these  Indians  htid  lon^  sticks,  hook- 
ed at  the  end,  which  they  used  in  hauling  out 
lizards,  and  other  small  animals,  from  their 
noles.  During  the  day  they  occasionally 
roasted  and  ate  lizards  at  our  fires.  These 
belong  to  the  people  who  are  generally  known 
under  the  name  of  Diggers ;  and  to  these  I 
have  more  particularly  bad  reference  when 
occasionally  speaking  of  a  people  whose  sole 
occupation  is  to  procure  food  sufficient  to 
au;  port  existence.  The  formation  here  con- 
■ists  of  fine  yellow  sandstone,  alternating  with 
a  coarse  conglomerate,  in  which  the  stones 
are  from  the  size  of  ordinary  gravel  to  six  or 
eight  inches  in  diameter.  This  is  the  forma- 
tion which  renders  the  surface  of  the  coun- 
try BO  rocky,  and  gives  us  now  a  road  alter- 
nately of  loose  heavy  sands  and  rolled  stones, 
which  cripple  the  animals  in  a  most  extraor- 
dinary manner. 

Ou  the  following  morning  we  left  the  Rio 
4e  loa  Angeles,  and  continued  our  way  through 
the  same  desolate  and  revolting  country, 


where  lizards  were  the  on?y  animal,  and  the 
tracks  of  the  lizard  eaters  the  principal  sign 
of  human  beings.  Atler  twenty  miles' 
march  tlirough  a  road  of  hills  and  heavy 
sands,  we  reached  the  most  dreary  liver  1 
have  ever  seen — a  deep  rapid  stream,  almost 
a  torrent,  passing  swiiVly  by,  and  roaring 
against  obstructions.  The  banks  were 
wooded  with  willow,  acacia,  and  a  frequent 
plant  of  the  country  already  mentioned 
(Gartya  elliplica),  growing  in  thickets,  re- 
sembling willow,  and  bearing  a  small  pink 
flower.  Crossing  it,  we  encamped  on  the 
left  bank,  where  we  found  a  very  little  grass. 
Our  three  remaining  r<teers,  being  entirely 
given  out,  were  killed  h'^re.  By  the  boiling 
point,  the  elevation  of  tht  river  here  is  4,060 
feet;  and  latitude,  by  ol>servation,  36"  41' 
33".  The  stream  was  rui.ning  towards  the 
southwest,  and  appeared  'o  come  from  a 
snowy  mountain  in  the  nonh.  It  proved  to 
be  the  Rio  Virgen — a  tributary  to  the  Colo- 
rado. Indians  appeared  in  baniSs  on  the  hills, 
but  did  not  come  into  camp.  For  several 
days  we  continued  our  journey  up  the  river, 
the  bottoms  of  which  were  thickly  overgrown 
with  various  kinds  of  brush ;  and  the  sandy 
soil  was  absolutely  covered  with  the  tracks 
of  Diggers,  who  followed  us  stealthily,  like 
a  band  of  wolves ;  and  we  had  no  opportunity 
to  leave  behind,  even  for  a  few  hours,  the 
tired  animals,  in  order  that  they  might  be 
brought  into  camp  after  a  little  repose.  A 
horee  or  mule,  left  behind,  was  taken  off  in  a 
moment.  On  the  evening  of  the  8tli,  having 
travelled  28  miles  up  the  river  from  our  first 
encampment  on  it,  we  encamped  at  a  little 
grass  plat,  where  a  spring  of  cool  water  is- 
sued from  the  bluff.  On  the  opposite  side 
was  a  grove  of  cottonwoods  at  the  mouth  of 
a  fork,  which  here  enters  the  river.  On  ei- 
ther side  the  valley  is  bounded  by  ranges  of 
mountains,  everywhere  high,  rocky,  and 
broken.  The  caravan  roa!d  was  lost  and 
scattered  in  the  sandy  country,  and  we  had 
been  following  an  Indian  trail  up  the  river. 
The  hunters  the  next  day  were  sent  out  to 
reconnoitre,  and  in  the  meantime  we  moved 
about  a  mile  farther  up,  where  we  found  a 
good  little  patch  of  grass.  There  being  only 
sufficient  grass  for  the  night,  the  horses 
were  sent  with  a  strong  guard  in  charge  ui 
Tabeau  to  a  neighboring  hollow,  where  they 
might  pasture  during  the  day ;  and,  to  be 
ready  in  case  the  Indiana  should  make  any 
attempt  on  the  animals,  several  of  the  best 
horses  were  picketed  at  the  camp.  In  a  few 
hours  the  hunters  returned,  having  found  a 
convenient  ford  in  the  river,  and  discovered 
the  Spanish  trail  od  'he  other  side. 

I  had  been  eneaged  in  arranging  plants ; 
and,  fatigued  with  the  heat  of  the  <uy,  I  fell 
asleep  in  the  afternoon,  and  did  not  awake 
until  sundown.    Presently  Carson  came  %f 


[1844. 

a  tlie  nn?y  animal,  and  the 
d  eaters  the  principal  sign 
i.      Atlcr  twenty  miles' 

road  of  iiills  and  heavy 
I  the  most  dreary  liver  I 
.  deep  rapid  stream,  ahnost 

BWiiVly  by,  and  roaring 
ons.  The  banits  were 
w,  acacia,  and  a  frequent 
untry  already  mentioned 
,  growing  in  thickets,  re- 
mit bearmg  a  small  pink 

it,  we  encamped  on  the 
e  found  a  very  little  grass, 
ing  r'teers,  being  entirely 
lied  h'^re.  By  the  boiling 
I  of  tht  river  here  is  4,060 
B,  by  ol.servation,  36"  41' 

was  rui.ning  towards  the 
ppeared  'o  come  from  a 
n  the  nonh.  It  proved  to 
I — a  tributary  to  the  Colo- 
eared  in  bands  on  the  hills, 

into  camp.  For  several 
I  our  journey  up  the  river, 
ch  were  thickly  overgrown 
I  of  brush ;  and  the  sandy 
Y  covered  with  the  tracks 
ollowed  us  stealthily,  like 
and  we  had  no  opportunity 
ven  for  a  few  hours,  the 
order  that  they  might  be 
p  after  a  little  repose.  A 
.  behind,  was  taken  off  in  a 
evening  of  the  8th,  having 
up  the  river  from  our  first 
,  we  encamped  at  a  little 
a  spring  of  cool  water  is- 
uif.  On  the  opposite  side 
Itonwoods  at  the  mouth  of 
I  enters  the  river.  On  ei- 
y  is  bounded  by  ranges  of 
where  high,  rocky,  and 
ravan  roa!a  was  lost  and 
andy  country,  and  we  had 

Inaian  trail  up  the  river, 
next  day  were  sent  out  to 
n  the  meantime  we  moved 
ler  up,  where  we  found  a 
[  grass.  There  being  only 
or  the  night,  the  horaes 
strong  guard  in  charge  ui 
iboring  hollow,  where  they 
ring  the  day ;  and,  to  m 
Indians  should  make  any 
timals,  several  of  the  best 
ted  at  the  camp.    In  a  few 

returned,  havmg  found  a 
(1  the  river,  and  discovered 
>p  'he  other  side, 
nged  in  arranging  plants ; 

the  heat  of  the  lUy,  I  fell 
moon,  and  did  not  awaka 
Presently  Carson  caoM  U 


"^ 


1844.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


Itr 


loe,  and  reported  that  Tabeau,  who  early  in 
the  diiy  had  left  his  post,  and,  without  my 
knowledge,  rode  back  to  tiie  camp  we  had 
left,  in  search  of  a  lame  mule,  had  not  re- 
turned. While  we  were  speaking,  a  smoke 
rose  suddenly  from  the  Cottonwood  grove  be- 
low, which  plainly  told  us  what  had  befallen 
him  ;  it  was  raised  to  inform  the  .surround- 
iig  Indians  that  a  blow  had  been  struck,  and 
to  tell  them  to  be  on  their  guard.  CarsoH, 
with  several  men  well  mounted,  was  instantly 
sent  down  the  river,  but  returned  in  the  night 
without  tidings  of  the  missing  man.  They 
went  to  the  camp  we  had  left,  but  neither  he 
nor  the  mule  was  there.  Searching  down 
the  river,  they  found  the  tracks  of  the  mule, 
evidently  driven  along  by  Indians,  whose 
tracks  were  on  each  side  of  those  made  by 
the  animal.  After  goinp;  several  miles,  they 
came  to  the  mule  itsell,  standing  in  some 
bushes,  mortally  wounded  in  the  side  by  an 
arrow,  and  left  to  die,  that  it  might  be  after- 
wards butchered  for  food.  They  also  found, 
in  another  place,  as  they  were  hunting  about 
on  the  ground  fur  Tabeau's  tracks,  some- 
thing that  looked  like  a  little  puddle  of  blood, 
but  which  the  darkness  prevented  them  from 
verifying.  With  these  details  they  returned 
to  our  camp,  and  their  report  saddened  all  our 
hearts. 

May  10. — This  morning  as  soon  as  there 
was  light  enough  to  follow  tracks,  I  set  out 
myself  with  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and  several 
men,  in  search  of  Tabeau.  We  went  to 
the  spot  where  the  appearance  of  puddled 
blood  had  been  seen ;  and  this,  we  saw  at 
once,  had  been  the  place  where  he  fell  and 
died.  Blood  upon  the  leaves,  and  beaten 
down  bushes,  snowed  that  he  had  got  his 
wound  about  twenty  paces  from  where  he 
fell,  and  that  he  had  struggled  for  his  life. 
He  had  probably  been  shot  through  tlie 
lungs  witli  an  arrow.  From  the  place  where 
he  lay  and  bled,  it  could  be  seen  that  he  had 
been  dragged  to  the  river  bank,  and  thrown 
into  it.  m  vestige  of  what  had  belonged  to 
him  could  be  found,  except  a  fragment  of  his 
horse  equipment.  Horse,  gun,  clothes — all 
became  the  prey  of  these  Arabs  of  the  New 
World. 

Tabeau  had  been  one  of  our  best  men, 
and  his  unhappy  death  spread  a  gloom  ovei 
our  party.  Men,  who  have  gone  through 
such  dangers  and  suilferings  as  we  had  seen, 
become  like  brothers,  ana  feel  each  other's 
loss.  To  defend  and  avenge  each  other,  is 
the  deep  feeling  of  all.  We  wished  to 
avenge  his  death ;  but  the  condition  of  our 
horses,  languishing  for  grass  and  repose, 
fnrtiade  an  expedition  into  unknown  moun- 
tains. We  knew  the  tribe  who  had  done 
the  mischief— the  same  which  had  been  in- 
sulting our  camp.  They  knew  what  they 
deserved,  i\nd  had  the  discretion  to  show 


themselves  to  us  no  more.  The  day  before, 
they  infested  our  camp;  now,  not  one  ap- 
peared ;  nor  did  wo  ever  afterwards  see  but 
one  who  even  belonged  to  the  same  tribe, 
and  he  at  a  distance. 

Our  camp  was  in  a  basin  below  a  deep 
caiion — a  gap  of  two  thousand  feet  deep  in 
the  mountain — through  which  the  J{ to  Virgen 
passes,  and  where  no  man  or  beast  could 
follow  it.  The  Spanish  trail,  which  we  had 
lost  in  the  sands  of  the  basin,  was  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  We  crossed  over 
to  it,  and  followed  it  northwardly  towards  a 
gap  which  was  visible  in  the  mountain.  We 
approached  it  by  a  defile,  rendered  difficult 
for  our  barefooted  animals  by  the  rocks 
strewed  along  it;  and  here  the  country 
changed  its  character.  From  the  time  we 
entered  the  desert,  the  mountains  had  been 
bald  and  rocky ;  here  they  began  to  be  wood- 
ed with  cedar  and  pine,  and  clusters  of  trees 
gave  shelter  to  birds — a  new  and  welcome 
sight — which  could  not  have  lived  in  the 
desert  we  had  passed. 

Descending  ■«  long  hollow,  towards  the 
narrow  valley  of  a  jtream,  we  saw  before  us 
a  snowy  mountain,  far  beyond  which  ap- 
peared another  more  lofty  still.  Good  bunch 
grass  began  to  appear  on  the  hill  sides,  and 
here  we  found  a  singular  variety  of  inter* 
esting  shrubs.  The  changed  appearance  of 
the  country  infused  among  our  people  a 
more  lively  spirit,  which  was  heightened 
by  finding  at  evening  a  halting  place  of  very 
good  grass  on  the  clear  waters  of  the  Sani'a 
Clara  fork  of  the  Rio  Virgen. 

May  II. — The  morning  was  cloudy  and 
quite  cool,  with  a  shower  of  rain — the  first 
we  have  had  since  entering  the  desert,  a  pe- 
riod of  twenty-seven  days ;  and  we  seem  to 
have  entered  a  different  climate,  with  the 
usual  weather  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 
Our  march  to-day  was  very  laborious,  over 
very  broken  ground,  along  the  Santa  Clara 
river ;  but  then  the  country  is  no  longer  so 
distressingly  desolate.  The  stream  is  pret* 
tily  wooded  with  sweet  cottonwood  trees — 
some  of  them  of  large  size ;  and  on  the  hills, 
where  the  nut  pine  is  often  seen,  a  good  and 
wholesome  grass  occurs  frequently.  This 
cottonwood,  which  is  now  in  fruit,  is  of  a 
dilTerent  species  from  any  in  Michaux's  Sylva. 
Heavy  dark  clouds  covered  the  sky  in  the 
evening,  and  a  cold  wind  sprang  up,  making 
fires  and  overcoats  comfortable. 

May  12. — A  litUe  above  our  encampment, 
the  river  forked ;  and  we  continued  up  the 
right-hand  branch,  gradually  ascending  to> 
wards  the  summit  of  the  mountain.  As  we 
rose  towards  the  head  of  the  creek,  the 
snowy  mountain  on  our  right  showed  out 
handsomely — high  and  rugged  with  preci- 
pices, and  covered  with  snow  for  about  two 
thousand  feet   from  their   summits  down. 


■({.1 


„i0#^^ 


168 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1844 


Our  animals  were  somewhat  repaid  for  their 
hard  mardies  by  an  excellent  camping  ground 
on  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  which  forms  here 
tfie  dividing  chain  between  the  waters  of  the 
Rio  Virgen,  which  goes  south  to  the  Colora- 
do, and  those  of  Sevier  river,  flowing  north- 
wardly, and  belonging  to  the  Great  Basin. 
We  considered  ourselves  as  crossing  the  rim 
of  the  basin ;  and,  entering  it  at  this  point,  we 
found  here  an  extensive  mountain  meadow, 
rich  in  bunch  grass,  and  fresh  with  numerous 
springs  of  clear  water,  all  refreshing  and 
delightful  to  look  upcn.  It  was,  in  fact,  that 
las  Vegai  de  SatUa  Clara,  which  had  been 
ao  long  presented  to  us  as  the  terminating 
point  of  the  desert,  and  where  the  annual 
caravan  from  California  to  New  Mexico 
halted  and  recruited  for  some  weeks.  It 
was  a  very  suitable  place  to  recover  from 
the  fatigue  and  exhaustion  of  a  month's 
suiiering  in  the  hot  and  sterile  desert.  The 
meadow  was  about  a  mile  wide,  and  some 
ten  miles  long,  bordered  by  grassy  hills  and 
mountains — some  of  the  latter  rising  two 
thousand  feet,  and  white  with  snow  down  to 
the  level  of  the  vegas.  Its  elevation  above 
the  sea  was  6,280  feet ;  latitude,  by  obser- 
vation, 37°  28'  28" ;  and  its  distance  from 
where  we  first  struck  the  Spanish  trail  about 
four  hundred  miles.  Counting  from  the 
time  we  reached  th>>  desert,  and  began  to 
skirt,  at  our  descent  from  Walker's  Pass  in 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  we  had  travelled  650 
miles,  occupying  twenty-seven  days,  in  that 
inhospitable  region.  In  passing  before  the 
great  caravan,  we  had  the  advantage  of 
finding  more  grass,  but  the  disadvantage  of 
finding  also  the  marauding  savages,  who 
had  gathered  down  upon  the  trail,  waiting 
the  approach  of  that  prey.  This  greatly 
increased  our  labors,  besides  costing  us  the 
life  of  an  excellent  man.  We  had  to  move 
all  day  in  a  state  of  watch,  and  prepared 
for  combat — scouts  and  flankers  out,  a  front 
and  rear  division  of  our  men,  and  baggage 
animals  in  the  centre.  At  night,  camp  duty 
was  severe.  Those  who  had  toiled  all  day, 
had  to  guard,  by  turns,  the  camp  and  the 
horses,  all  night.  Frequently  one  third  of 
Uie whole  party  were  on  guard  at  once; 
and  nothing  but  this  vigilance  saved  us 
from  attack.  We  were  constantly  dog- 
ged by  bands,  and  even  whole  tribes  of 
Uie  marauders;  and  although  Tabeau 
was  killed,  and  our  camp  infested  and 
insulted  by  nome,  while  swarms  of  them 
remained  on  the  hills  and  mountain  sides, 
there  was  manifestly  a  consultation  and  cal- 
culation going  on,  to  decide  the  question  of 
attacking  us.  Having  reached  the  resting 
place  of  the  Vegas  de  Santa  Clara,  we  had 
complete  relief  from  the  heat  and  privations 
of  the  desert,  and  some  relaxation  from  the 
•everity  of  eamp  duty.     Some  relaxation, 


and  relaxation  only — for  camp  gua/Js,  horse 
guards,  and  scouts,  are  indinpensable  from 
the  time  of  leaving  the  frontiers  of  Missouri 
until  we  return  to  them. 

After  we  left  the  Vegas,  we  had  the  grati- 
fication to  be  joined  by  the  famous  huntit 
and  trapper,  Mr.  Joseph  Walker,  whom  I 
have  before  mentioned,  and  who  now  be- 
came our  guide.  He  had  left  California 
with  the  great  caravan  ;  and  perceiving, 
from  the  signs  along  the  trail,  that  there 
was  a  party  of  whites  ahead,  which  he 
judged  to  be  mine,  he  detached  himself 
from  the  caravan,  with  eight  men,  (Ameri- 
cans,) and  ran  the  gauntlet  of  the  deser' 
robbers,  killing  two,  and  getting  some  of  th« 
horses  wounded,  and  succeeded  in  overta- 
king us.  Nothing  but  his  great  knovledge 
of  the  country,  great  courage  and  presence 
of  mind,  and  good  rifles,  could  have  brought 
him  oafe  from  such  a  perilous  enterprise. 

May  13. — We  remained  one  day  at  this 
noted  place  of  rest  and  refreshment ;  and, 
resuming  our  progress  in  a  northeastwardly 
direction,  we  descended  into  a  broad  valley, 
the  water  of  which  is  tributary  to  Sevier 
lake.  The  next  day  we  came  in  sight  of 
the  Wah-satch  range  of  mountains  on  the 
right,  white  with  snow,  and  here  forming 
the  southeast  part  of  the  Great  Basin. 
Sevier  lake,  upon  the  waters  of  which  we 
now  were,  belonged  to  the  system  of  lakes 
in  the  eastern  part  of  the  Basin — of  which, 
the  Great  Salt  lake,  and  its  southern  limb, 
tlie  Utah  lake,  were  the  principal — towards 
the  region  of  which  we  were  now  approach- 
ing. We  travelled  for  several  days  in  this 
direction,  within  the  rim  of  the  Great  Basin, 
crossing  little  streams  which  bore  to  the  left 
for  Sevier  lake ;  and  plainly  seeing,  by  the 
changed  aspect  of  the  country,  that  we  were 
entirely  clear  of  the  desert,  and  approaching 
the  regions  which  appertained  to  the  sys- 
tem of  the  Rocky  mountains.  We  met,  in 
this  traverse,  a  few  mounted  Utah  Indians, 
in  advance  of  their  main  body,  watching  the 
approach  of  the  great  caravan. 

May  16. — We  reached  a  small  salt  lake, 
about  seven  miles  long  and  one  broad,  at  the 
northern  extremity  of  which  we  encamped 
for  the  night.  This  little  lake,  which  well 
merits  its  characteristic  name,  lies  imme- 
diately at  the  base  of  the  Wah-satch  range, 
and  nearly  opposite  a  gap  in  that  chain  of 
mountains  through  which  the  Spanish  trail 
passes ;  and  which,  again  falling  upon  the 
waters  of  the  Colorado,  and  crossing  that 
river,  proceeds  over  a  mountainous  country 
to  Santa  F6. 

May  17. — After  440  miles  of  travelling 
on  a  trail,  which  served  for  a  road,  we  again 
found  ourselves  under  the  necessity  ofex- 
ploring  a  track  through  the  wilderness. 
The  Spanish  trail  had  borno  oflT  to  tb* 


1 


S.  [1844 

y — for  camp  gua/Js,  horse 
B,  are  indiHpcnsable  from 
g  the  frontiers  of  Missouri 
i  them. 

e  Vegas,  we  had  the  Rati- 
fied by  the  famous  huntit 

Joseph  Walker,  whom  I 

tioned,  and  who  now  be- 

He  had  lefY  California 

caravan  ;  and  perceiving, 

ilong  the  trail,  that  there 

whites  ahead,  which  he 
ine,  he  detached  himself 
,  with  eight  men,  (Ameri- 
he  gauntlet  of  the  deaer' 
m,  and  getting  some  of  th« 
and  succeeded  in  overta- 
g  but  his  great  knovledge 
'eat  courage  and  presence 
I  rifles,  could  have  brought 
ih  a  perilous  enterprise, 
remained  one  day  at  this 
st  and  refreshment ;  and, 
giress  in  a  northeastwardly 
tended  into  a  broad  valley, 
ich  is  tributary  to  Sevier 
day  we  came  in  sight  of 
Etnge  of  mountains  on  the 

snow,  and  here  forming 
irt  of  the  Great  Basin. 
1  the  waters  of  which  we 
:ed  to  the  system  of  lakes 
•t  of  the  Basin — of  which, 
ke,  and  its  southern  limb, 
sre  the  principal — towards 
3h  we  were  now  approach- 
ed for  several  days  in  this 
he  rim  of  the  Great  Basin, 
sams  which  bore  to  the  left 
and  plainly  seeing,  by  the 
f  the  country,  that  we  were 
he  desert,  and  approaching 
I  appertained  to  the  sys- 
r  mountains.  We  met,  in 
3W  mounted  Utah  Indians, 
ir  main  body,  watching  the 
real  caravan. 

reached  a  small  salt  lake, 
I  long  and  one  broad,  at  the 
Ly  of  which  we  encamped 
his  little  lake,  which  well 
teristic  name,  lies  imme< 
e  of  the  Wah-satch  range, 
te  a  gap  in  that  chain  of 
h  which  the  Spanish  trail 
ih,  again  falling  upon  the 
>lorado,  and  crossing  that 
rer  a  mountainous  country 

sr  440  miles  of  travelling 
served  for  a  road,  we  again 
inder  the  necessity  of  ex- 
through  the  wilderneaa. 
lil  had  bornti  oflf  to  the 


1844 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARIIATIVE. 


1«» 


southeast,  onissing  the  Wah-satch  range.  |  and  tied  hard;  the  bundles  are  tied  down 
Our  course  led  to  the  northeast,  along  the  upon  poles,  as  close  as  they  can  be  pressed, 
foot  of  that  range,  and  leaving  it  on  the ;  and  fashioned  like  a  boat,  in  being  broader 
tight.  The  mountain  presented  itself  to  us  I  in  the  middle  and  pointed  at  the  ends.  Ihe 
under  the  form  of  several  ridges,  rising  one  rushes,  being  tubular  and  joiiilod,  are  light 
above  the  other,  rocky,  and  wooded  with  and  strong.  The  rult  swims  well,  and  is 
pine  and  cedar ;  tiie  hi-st  ridge  covered  with  ;  shoved  along  by  polef,  or  paddled,  or  pushed 
snow.  Sevier  river,  flowing  northwardly  to  I  and  pulled  by  swimmers,  or  drawn  by  ropes, 
the  lake  of  the  same  name,  collects  its  prin-   On  this  occasion,  wc  used  ropes— onn  at 


oipal  waters  from  ibis  section  of  the  VV'ah- 
Bctch  chain.  We  had  now  entered  a  region 
of  great  pastoral  promise,  abounding  with 
fine  streams,  the  rich  bunch  grass,  soil  that 
would  produce  wheat,  and  indigenous  flax 
growing  as  if  it  had  been  sown.  Consistent 
with  the  general  character  of  its  bordering 
mountains,  this  fertility  of  soil  and  vegeta- 
tion does  not  extend  far  into  the  Great 
Basin.  Mr.  Joseph  Walker,  our  guide,  and 
who  has  more  knowledge  of  these  parts  than 
any  man  I  know,  informed  me  that  all  the 
country  to  the  left  was  unknown  to  him, 
and  that  even  the  Digger  tribes,  which  fre- 
quented Lake  Sevier,  could  tell  him  nothing 
about  it. 

Mai/  80. — We  met  a  band  of  Utah  In- 
dians, headed  by  a  well-known  chief,  who 
had  obtained  the  American  or  English 
name  of  Walker,  by  which  he  is  quoted 
and  well  known.  They  were  all  mounted, 
armed  with  rifles,  and  use  their  rifles  well. 
The  chief  had  a  fusee,  whicli  he  had  carried 
slung,  in  addition  to  his  rifle.  They  were 
journeying  slowly  towards  the  Spanish  trail, 
to  levy  their  usual  tribute  upon  the  great 
Californian  caravan.  They  were  robbers 
of  a  higher  order  than  those  of  the  desert. 
They  conducted  their  depredations  with 
form,  and  under  the  color  of  trade  and  toll 
for  passing  through  their  country.  Instead 
of  attacking  and  killing,  they  afl!ect  to  pur- 
chase— taking  the  horses  they  like,  and  giv- 
ing something  nominal  in  return.  The 
chief  was  quite  civil  to  me.  He  was  per- 
sonally acquainted  with  his  namesake,  our 
fuide,  who  made  my  name  known  to  him. 
[e  knew  of  my  expedition  of  1843 ;  and, 
as  tokens  of  friendship,  and  proof  that  we 
had  met,  proposed  an  interchange  of  pres- 
ents. We  had  no  great  store  to  choose  out 
of;  so  he  gave  me  a  Mexican  blanket,  and 
I  gave  him  a  very  fine  one  which  I  had  ob- 
tained at  Vancouver. 

May  23. — We  reached  Sevier  river — ^the 
main  tributary  of  the  lake  of  the  same  name 
— which,  deflecting  from  its  northern  course, 
hero  breaks  from  the  mountains  to  enter  the 
lake.  It  was  really  a  fine  river,  from  eight 
to  t'.elve  feet  deep ;  and,  after  searching  in 
vain  for  a  fordable  place,  we  made  little 
boats  (or,  rather,  rafts)  out  of  bulrushes, 
and  ferried  across.  I'hese  rafts  are  readily 
imule,  and  give  a  good  conveyance  across  a 
liver.    The  rushes  are  bound  in  bundles, 


each  end — and  rapidly  drew  our  little  float 
backwards  and  forwards,  from  shore  to 
shore.  The  horses  swam.  At  our  place 
of  crossing,  which  was  tlie  most  northern 
point  of  its  bend,  the  latitude  was  303  33' 
10".  The  banks  sustained  the  character 
for  fertility  and  vegetation  which  we  had 
seen  for  some  days.  The  name  of  this 
river  and  lake  was  an  indication  of  our  ap- 
proach to  regions  of  which  our  people  had 
been  the  explorers.  It  was  probably  named 
after  some  American  trapper  or  hunter,  and 
was  the  first  American  name  we  had  met 
with  since  leaving  the  Columbia  river. 
From  the  Dalles  to  the  point  where  we 
turned  across  the  Sierra  Nevada,  near  1,000 
miles,  we  heard  Indian  names,  and  the 
greater  part  of  the  distance  none ;  from 
Nueva  Helvetia  (Sacramento)  to  las  Vega$ 
de  Santa  Clara,  about  1,000  more,  all  were 
Spanish ;  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pa- 
cific, French  and  American  or  English 
were  intermixed :  and  this  prevalence  of 
names  indicates  the  national  character  of 
the  first  explorers. 

We  had  here  the  misfortune  to  lose  one  of 
our  people,  Frani^uis  Badeau,  who  had  been 
with  me  in  both  expeditions  ;  during  which 
he  had  always  been  one  of  my  most  faithful 
and  efficient  men.  He  was  killed  in  drawing 
towards  him  a  gun  by  the  muzzle  ;  the  ham- 
mer being  caught,  discharged  the  gun,  dri- 
ving the  ball  through  his  head.  We  buried 
him  on  the  banks  of  the  river. 

Crossing  the  next  day  a  slight  ridge  along 
the  river,  we  entered  a  handsome  mountain 
valley  covered  with  fine  grass,  and  directed 
our  course  towards  a  high  snowy  peak,  at 
the  foot  of  which  lay  the  Utah  lake.  On 
our  right  was  a  bed  of  nigh  mountains,  their 
summits  covered  with  snow,  constituting  the 
dividing  ridge  between  the  Basin  waters 
and  those  of  the  Colorado.  At  noon  we  fell 
in  with  a  party  of  Utah  Indians  coming  out 
of  the  mountain,  and  in  the  afternoon  en- 
camped on  a  tributary  to  the  lake,  which  is 
separated  from  the  waters  of  the  Sevier  by 
very  slight  dividing  grounds. 

Early  the  next  day  we  came  in  sight  of 
the  lake ;  and,  as  we  descended  to  the 
broad  bottoms  of  the  Spanish  fork,  three 
horsemen  were  seen  galloping  towards  us, 
who  proved  to  be  Utah  Indians — scouts 
from  a  village,  which  was  encamped  near 
the  mouth  of  the  river.    They  were  armed 


If! 


Si; 
I"' 


Si!. 


^1 


17t 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1844 


with  riflcR,  mill  their  horses  were  in  good 
condition.  Wo  pncain|)e(l  near  thenn,  on  the 
Spanish  fork,  whinii  i.t  one  of  the  principal 
trihutaiies  to  the  lake.  Finding  the  Indians 
trouhlusoniu,  and  desirous  to  remain  here  a 
day,  we  removed  the  next  morning  farther 
down  the  lake,  and  encamped  on  a  fertile 
bottom  near  the  foot  of  the  same  mountui*: 
ous  rid);e  which  borders  the  Great  Sa.; 
lake,  and  alonp  which  we  had  journeyed  the 
previous  September.  Here  the  principal 
plants  ill  bloom  were  two,  wliich  were  re- 
markable as  ulfording  to  the  Snake  Indians 
— the  one  an  abundant  supply  of  food,  and 
the  other  the  most  useful  among  the  appli- 
cations which  they  use  for  wounds.  These 
were  the  kooyab  |)lant,  growing  in  fields  of 
extraordinary  luxuriance,  and  convollaria 
stellata,  which,  from  the  experience  of  Mr. 
Walker,  is  the  best  remedial  plant  known 
among  those  Indians.  A  few  miles  below 
as  was  another  village  of  Indians,  from 
which  we  obtained  some  fish — among  them 
a  few  salmon  trout,  which  were  very  much 
inferior  in  size  to  those  along  the  Califor- 
nian  mountains.  The  season  for  taking 
them  had  not  yet  arrived  :  but  the  Indians 
were  daily  expecting  them  to  come  up  out 
of  the  lake. 

We  had  now  accomplished  an  object  we 
had  in  view  when  leaving  the  Dalles  of  the 
Coluujbia  in  November  last :  we  had  reach- 
ed the  Utah  lake  ;  but  by  a  route  very  dif- 
ferent from  what  wc  had  intended,  and 
without  sufficient  time  remaining  to  make 
the  examinations  which  were  desired.  It 
is  a  lake  of  note  in  this  country,  under  the 
dominion  of  the  Utahs,  who  resort  to  it  for 
fish.  Its  greatest  breadth  is  about  15  mil»8, 
stretching  far  to  the  north,  narrowing  as  it 
goes,  and  connecting  with  the  Great  Salt 
<ake.  This  is  the  report,  and  which  I  be- 
lieve to  bo  correct ;  but  it  is  fresh  water, 
while  the  other  is  not  only  salt,  but  a  satu- 
rated solution  of  salt ;  and  here  is  a  problem 
which  requires  to  be  solved.  It  is  almost 
entirely  surrounded  by  mountains,  walled  on 
the  north  and  east  by  a  high  and  snowy 
range,  which  supplies  to  it  a  fan  of  tributa- 
ry Bireams.  Among  these,  the  principal 
river  is  the  Timpan-ogo — signifying  Rock 
river — a  name  which  the  rocky  grandeur  of 
its  scenery,  remarkable  even  in  this  coun- 
try of  rugged  mountains,  has  obtained  for  it 
from  the  Indians.  !n  the  Utah  language, 
og-wdh-be,  the  term  for  river,  when  cou- 
pled with  other  words  in  common  conversa- 
tion, is  usually  abbreviated  to  ogo ;  timpan 
signifying  rock.  It  is  probable  that  this 
river  furnished  the  name  which  on  the  older 
maps  has  been  generally  applied  to  the 
Great  Salt  lake ;  but  for  this  I  have  prefer- 
red a  name  which  will  b<  regarded  as  high- 
ly characteristic,  restricting  to  the  river  the 


d«eoriptive  term  Timpan-n^o,  and  leaviog 
for  the  lake  into  which  it  tlowtt  tiie  name  of 
the  people  who  reside  on  itH  MJiores,  and  \iy 
which  it  is  known  throiiulumt  llio  country. 

The  volume  of  water  ullbrded  by  the 
Timpan-ogo  is  probably  eijual  to  that  of  the 
Sevier  river;  and,  at  the  time  of  our  visit, 
there  was  only  one  place  in  the  lake  valley 
at  which  the  Spanish  fork  was  fordablo.  In 
the  cove  of  mountains  alon^r  its  eastern 
shore,  the  luke  is  bordered  liy  a  plain,  where 
the  soil  is  generally  good,  and  in  greater 
part  fertile  ;  watered  by  a  delta  of  prettily 
timbered  streams.  This  would  bo  an  ex- 
cellent locality  for  stock  farms  ;  it  is  gener- 
ally covered  with  good  bunch  grass,  and 
would  abundantly  produce  the  ordinary 
grains. 

In  arriving  at  the  Utah  lake,  we  had  com- 
pleted an  immense  circuit  of  twelve  degrees 
diameter  north  and  south,  and  ton  degrees 
east  and  west ;  and  found  ourselves,  in  May, 
1844,  on  the  same  sheet  of  water  which  we 
had  left  in  September,  1843.  The  Utah  is 
the  southern  limb  of  the  Great  Salt  lake  ; 
and  thus  we  had  seen  that  remarkable  sheet 
of  water  both  at  its  northern  and  southern 
extremity,  and  were  able  to  fix  its  |HisitioD 
at  these  two  points.  The  circuit  which  we 
had  made,  and  which  had  cost  us  eight 
months  of  time,  and  3,500  miles  of  travel- 
ling, had  given  us  a  view  of  Oregon  and  of 
North  California  from  the  Rocky  mountains 
to  the  Pacific  ocean,  and  of  the  two  princi- 
pal streams  which  form  bays  or  harbors  on 
the  coast  of  that  sea.  Having  completed 
this  circuit,  and  being  now  about  to  tuni 
the  back  upon  the  Pacific  slope  of  our  con- 
tinent, and  to  recross  the  Rocky  mountains, 
it  is  natural  to  look  back  upon  our  footsteps, 
and  take  some  brief  view  of  the  leading 
features  and  general  structure  of  the  coun- 
try we  had  travflrsed.  These  are  peculiar  and 
striking,  and  diflfer  essentially  from  the  At- 
lantic side  of  our  country.  The  mountains 
all  are  higher,  more  numerous,  and  mora 
distinctly  defined  in  their  ranges  and  direa- 
tions  ;  and,  what  ia  so  contrary  to  the  natu- 
ral order  of  such  formations,  one  df  these 
ranges,  which  is  near  the  coast,  (the  Sier.'« 
Nevada  and  the  Coast  Range,)  presentk 
higher  elevations  and  peaks  than  any  which 
are  to  be  found  in  the  Rocky  mountains 
themselves.  In  our  eight  months'  circuit, 
we  were  never  out  of  sight  of  snow ;  and 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  where  we  crossed  it, 
was  near  3,000  let  higher  than  the  South 
Pass  in  the  Rocky  mountains.  In  height, 
these  mountains  greatly  exceed  those  of  tha 
Atlantic  side,  constantly  presenting  peaka 
which  enter  the  region  of  eternal  snowr; 
and  some  of  them  volcanic,  and  in  a  fi«> 
quent  state  of  activity.     They  are  seam  •! 


fl844 

mpan-n|To,  and  learing 
liicli  itilows  iliR  naiDA  uf 
itie  on  itH  Hliores,  and  by 
tliroiiulioiit  ilio  country. 

Witter  uH'iinlpd  by  tha 
liMy  i>i|ual  til  that  of  the 
iit  the  ttmi!  of  our  visit, 

place  in  tlio  litkc  valley 
sh  fork  w;iH  forilablo.  In 
itains  nlon<!  its  eastern 
ordered  liy  a  |ilain,  where 
lly  ({ood,  and  in  greater 
ed  by  a  delta  of  prettily 

Tliis  would  bo  an  ex- 
stock  farms  ;  it  is  gener- 
good  bunch  grass,  and 

produce    the    ordinary 


e  Utah  lake,  wo  had  com- 
circuit  of  twelve  degrees 
i  south,  and  ton  degrees 
I  found  ourselves,  in  May, 
sheet  of  water  which  we 
ber,  1843.  The  Utah  is 
of  the  Great  Salt  lake  ; 
en  that  remarkable  sheet 
I  northern  and  southern 
■e  able  to  fix  its  |Misition 
.  The  circuit  which  we 
lich  had  cost  us  eight 
id  3,500  milns  of  travel- 
a  view  of  Oregon  and  of 
cm  the  Rocky  mountains 
n,  and  of  the  two  princi- 
forni  bays  or  harbors  oo 
sea.  Having  completed 
)eing  now  about  to  tuni 
Pacific  slope  of  our  con- 
188  the  Rocky  mountains, 
c  back  upon  our  footsteps, 
'ief  view  of  the  leading 
Ell  structure  of  the  coun- 
i.  These  are  peculiar  and 
essentially  from  the  At- 
ountry.  'riie  mountains 
ire  numerous,  and  mora 
1  their  ranges  and  dires- 
80  contrary  to  the  natn- 
formationa,  ono  df  these 
lar  the  coast,  (the  Sierra 
Coast  Range,)  presents 
nd  peaks  than  any  which 
n  the  Rocky  mountains 
ir  eight  months'  circuit, 
t  of  sight  of  snow ;  and 
1,  where  we  crossed  it, 
t  higher  than  the  South 
'  mountains.  In  height, 
Batly  exceed  those  of  tha 
itantly  presenting  peska 
egion  of  eternal  snowr; 
volcanic,  and  in  a  fra- 
^ity.     They  are  seaa  H 


18«4.* 


CAFT.  FRKMONT'S  NARHATIVE. 


171 


great  dittaneet,  and  guide  the  traveller  in 
his  courses. 

The  course  and  elevation  of  tlinsc  ranges 
^ivo  direction  to  the  rivers  nii.l  character  to 
the  coast.  No  great  river  dors,  or  can,  take 
its  riKe  below  the  Cascade  and  Sierra  Ne- 
vada rui.,'0  ;  the  distance  to  the  sea  is  loo 
short  to  admit  of  it.  The  rivers  of  tho  San 
Francisco  bay,  which  are  tho  largest  after 
the  Columbia,  are  local  to  that  bay,  and 
lateral  to  the  coast,  having  their  sources 
about  on  u  line  with  the  Dalles  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, and  running  each  in  a  valley  of  its 
own,  between  Coabt  range  and  the  Cascade 
and  Sierra  Nevada  range.  'I'lie  Columbia 
is  the  oidy  river  which  traverses  tho  whole 
breadth  of  tho  country,  breaking  through 
all  the  ranges,  and  entering  tho  sea.  Draw- 
ing its  waters  from  a  section  of  ten  de- 
grees of  latitude  in  the  Rocky  mountains, 
which  are  collected  into  ono  stream  by 
three  main  forks  (Lewis's,  Clark's,  and  the 
North  fork)  neor  the  centre  of  the  Oregon 
valley,  this  great  river  thence  proceeds  by 
a  single  channel  to  tho  sea,  whilo  its  three 
forks  lead  each  to  a  pass  in  tho  mountains, 
which  opens  the  way  into  the  interior  of 
the  continent.  This  fact  in  relation  to  the 
rivers  of  this  region  gives  an  immense  val- 
ue to  the  Columbia.  Its  mouth  is  the  only 
inlet  and  outlet  to  and  from  the  sea ;  its 
three  forks  lead  to  the  passes  in  the  moun- 
tains; it  is  therefore  the  only  line  of  com- 
munication between  the  Pacific  and  the  in- 
terior of  North  America ;  and  all  operations 
of  war  or  commerce,  of  national  or  social 
intercourse,  must  be  conducted  upon  it. 
This  gives  it  a  value  beyond  estimation,  and 
would  involve  irreparable  injury  if  lost.  In 
this  unity  and  concentration  of  its  waters, 
the  Pacific  side  of  our  continent  differs  en- 
tirely from  the  Atlantic  side,  where  the 
waters  of  the  Alleghany  mountains  are  dis- 
[>ersed  into  many  rivers,  having  their  differ- 
ent entrances  into  the  sea,  and  opening 
many  lines  of  communication  with  the  in 
toriur. 

The  Pacific  coast  is  equally  different 
/rom  that  of  the  Atlantic.  The  coast  of 
the  Atlantic  is  low  and  open,  indented  with 
numerous  bays,  sounds,  and  river  estuaries, 
accessible  everywhere,  and  opening  by  many 
channels  into  the  heart  of  the  country.  The 
Pacific  coast,  on  the  contrary,  is  high  and 
compact,  with  few  bays,  and  but  one  that 
opens  into  the  heart  of  the  country.  The 
immediate  coast  is  what  the  seamen  call 
iron  bound.  A  little  within,  it  is  skirted 
by  two  successive  ranges  of  mountains, 
standing  as  ramparts  between  the  sea  and 
the  interior  country  ;  and  to  get  through 
which,  there  is  but  one  gate,  and  that  nar- 
row and  easily  defended.  This  structuro 
of  the  coast,  backed  by  these  two  ran$'.;s  of 


mcuntains,  with  its  concentration  nnd  unity 
of  waters,  gives  to  tho  country  an  imineiM 
military  »lrencth,  and  will  pmbalily  rendei 
Oregon  *lio  ino.st  im|)regtialilc  country  in 
the  worlo. 

DiU'ering  so  much  from  the  Atlantic  side 
of  our  continent,  in  coast,  mouniains,  and 
rivers,  tho  i'acifio  side  dilfors  from  it  in 
another  most  rare  dnd  singular  leature — 
that  of  tho  Cireat  interior  liasin,  of  which  I 
have  so  often  spoken,  and  tho  whole  form 
and  character  of  which  I  was  so  anxious  to 
ascertain.  Its  existence  is  vouched  fur  by 
siu^^of  the  American  traders  and  hunters 
as  have  some  knowledge  of  tl\;it  region; 
tho  structuro  uf  the  Sierra  Nevada  range 
of  mountains  requires  it  to  be  there  ;  and 
my  own  observations  confirm  it.  Mr. 
Joseph  Walker,  who  is  so  well  ac(|uainted 
\n  those  parts,  informed  me  that,  t'rom  the 
Great  Salt  lake  west,  there  wus  a  succes 
sion  of  lakes  and  rivers  which  have  no 
outlet  to  the  sea,  nor  any  ccmncction  with 
tho  Columbia,  or  with  the  (>olorado  of  the 
Gulf  of  California.  Ho  described  some 
of  these  lakes  as  being  large,  with  numerous 
streams,  and  even  considerable  rivers, 
falling  into  them.  In  fact,  all  concur  in 
the  general  report  of  these  interior  rivers 
and  lakes  ;  and,  for  want  of  understanding 
the  force  and  power  of  evaporation,  which 
so  soon  establishes  an  equilibrium  between 
the  loss  and  supply  of  waters,  the  fable  of 
whirlpools  and'  subterraneous  outlets  has 
gained  belief,  as  the  only  imaginable  way 
of  carrying  off"  the  waters  which  have  no 
visible  discharge.  The  structure  uf  the 
country  would  require  this  formation  of  in- 
terior lakes ;  for  the  waters  which  would 
collect  between  the  Rocky  mountains  and 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  not  being  able  to  cross 
this  formidable  barrier,  nor  to  get  to  the 
Columbia  or  the  Colorado,  must  naturally 
collect  into  reservoirs,  each  of  which  would 
have  its  little  system  of  streams  and  rivers 
to  supply  it.  This  would  be  the  natural 
efliect ;  and  what  I  saw  went  to  confirm  it. 
The  Great  Salt  lake  is  a  formation  of 
this  kind,  and  quite  a  large  one ;  and  hav- 
ing many  streams,  and  one  considerable 
river,  four  or  five  hundred  miles  long, 
falling  into  it.  This  lake  and  river  I  saw 
and  examined  myself;  and  also  saw  the 
Wah-satch  and  Bear  River  mountains  which 
enclose  the  waters  of  the  lake  on  the  east, 
and  constitute,  in  that  quarter,  the  rim  of 
the  Great  Basin.  Afterwards,  along  the 
eastern  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  where 
we  travelled  for  forty-two  days,  1  saw  the 
line  of  lakes  and  rivers  which  lie  at  the 
foot  of  that  Sierra ;  and  which  Sierra  is 
tho  western  rim  of  the  Basin.  In  going 
down  Lewis's  fork  and  the  main  Columbia, 
I  crossed  only  inferior  streams  coming  in 


h 
1 

I.. 


w 


IlI 


in 


TAPT.   FUKMONT'S  NAUIlAl  l\  K. 


[1944. 


(Voin  the  Ion,  Hiicli  iiN  (MiiiM  (liuw  tlmir 
water  t'riiin  a  ithort  (liBtaut-ii  imly  ;  uml  I 
ufien  Riiw  ilii;  iiKiuiitaiiis  at  thoir  IicuiIr, 
white  with  snow  ;  whiiMi,  nil  iiccoiintx  Niiiii, 
diviilnil  the  wiitura  of  the  desrri  fniin  those 
of  the  Columbia,  and  which  uoiilii  bo  no 
other  than  the  ranpn  of  nioiiiitiiiiia  which 
form  the  rim  of  tiio  Hasin  on  itH  iiortliRrn 
side.  And  in  returning  from  Cuiiforniii 
along  the  Spanish  trail,  as  far  as  the  head 
of  the  .Santa  Clara  fork  of  tiio  Hio  V'irgen, 
1  crossed  only  small  streams  making  their 
way  south  to  the  Colorado,  or  lost  in  sand — 
as  the  Mo-hah-ve ;  while  to  the  loft,  lofty 
mountains,  their  summits  white  with  snow, 
were  often  visible,  and  which  must  have 
turned  water  to  the  north  as  well  as  to  the 
•outh,  and  thus  constituted,  on  this  part, 
the  southern  rim  of  the  Uasin.  At  the 
head  of  the  Santa  Clara  fork,  and  in  the 
Vegas  de  Santa  Clara,  we  crossed  the 
ridge  which  parted  the  two  systems  of 
waters.  We  entered  the  Hasiii  at  that 
point,  an'l  have  travelled  in  it  ever  since, 
having  its  southeastern  rim  (I he  Wah-satch 
mountain)  on  the  right,  and  crossing  the 
streams  which  flow  down  into  it.  The  ex- 
istence of  the  Uasin  is  therefore  an  estab- 
lished fact  in  my  mind  ;  its  extent  and  con- 
tents are  yet  to  be  better  ascertained.  It 
cannot  bo  less  than  four  or  five  hundred 
miles  each  way,  and  must  lie  principally  in 
the  Alta  California  ;  the  demarcation  lati- 
tude of  43^3  probably  cutting  a  segment 
from  the  north  part  of  the  rim.  Of  its  in- 
terior, but  little  is  known.  It  is  culled  a 
desert,  and,  from  what  I  saw  of  it,  sterility 
may  be  its  prominent  characteristic ;  but 
where  there  is  so  much  water,  there  must 
be  some  oaxis.  The  great  river,  and  the 
great  lake,  reported,  may  not  be  equal  to 
the  report ;  but  where  there  is  so  much 
snow,  there  must  be  streams  ;  and  where 
there  is  no  outlet,  there  must  be  lakes  to 
hold  the  accumulated  waters,  or  sands  to 
swallow  them  up.  In  this  eastern  parti:? 
the  Basin,  containing  Sevier,  Utah,  and  the 
Great  Salt  lakes,  and  the  rivers  and  creeks 
falling  into  them,  we  know  there  is  good 
soil  and  good  grass,  adapted  to  civilized 
settlements.  In  the  western  part,  on  Sal- 
mon Trout  river,  and  some  other  streams, 
the  same  remark  may  be  made. 

The  contents  of  this  Great  Basin  are  yet 
to  be  examined.  That  it  is  peopled,  we 
know ;  but  miserably  and  sparsely.  From 
all  that  I  heard  and  saw,  I  should  say  that 
humanity  here  appeared  in  its  lowest  form, 
and  in  its  most  elementary  state.  Dis- 
persed in  single  families;  without  lire-arms ; 
eating  seeds  and  insects ;  digging  roots, 
(and  hence  their  name,) — such  is  the  con- 
dition of  the  greater  part.  Others  are  a 
detrree  higher,  and    live  in  communities 


upon  soinu  lake  or  river  that  Hiipplipn  fish, 
uiul  friiin  which  they  rcpulsf>  the  niiHerable 
Dififfcr.  The  riihliit  is  the  iarirost  animal 
known  in  this  desert ;  its  IIcnIi  niTords  a 
little  meat;  and  their  hag-like  covering  it 
made  of  its  skins.  The  wiM  sago  is  theii 
only  wood,  and  here  it  is  of  extraordi* 
nary  size — sonictitnns  a  foot  in  diameter, 
and  six  or  eight  feet  high.  It  servos  for 
fuel,  for  building  material,  for  shelter  to  the 
rabbits,  and  for  some  sort  of  covering  for 
the  foet  and  legs  in  cold  weather.  Such 
are  the  accounts  of  the  inhabitants  and  pro- 
ductions of  the  Great  BaHin ;  ami  wliicli, 
though  imperfect,  must  have  tuMun  founda- 
tion, and  exuite  our  desire  to  know  the 
wh(do. 

The  whole  idea  of  such  a  desert,  and  such 
a  people,  is  a  novelty  in  our  country,  and 
excites  Asiatic,  not  American  ideas,  lute 
riur  basins,  with  their  own  systems  of  laket 
and  rivers,  and  often  sterile,  are  common 
enough  in  Asia ;  people  still  in  the  olumen- 
tury  state  of  families,  living  in  dcHcrts,  with 
no  other  occupation  than  the  mere  animal 
search  for  food,  may  still  ho  seen '  in  that 
ancient  quarter  of  the  gUbe  ;  but  in  Aineri- 
na  such  things  are  new  and  strange,  un- 
kimwn  and  unsuspected,  and  discredited 
when  related.  But  I  flatter  myself  that 
what  is  discovered,  though  not  enough  to 
satisfy  curiosity,  is  snfllcient  to  excite  it,  aiU 
that  subsequent  explorations  will  completa 
what  has  been  commenced. 

This  account  of  the  Great  Basin,  it  will 
be  remembered,  belongs  to  the  Alta  Cali- 
fornia, and  has  no  application  lo  Oregon, 
whose  capabilities  may  justify  a  sejiarate 
remark.  Referring  to  my  journal  for  par- 
ticular descriptions,  and  for  sectional  boun- 
daries between  good  and  bad  districts,  1  can 
<inly  say,  in  general  and  comparative  terms, 
that,  in  that  branch  of  agriculture  which  im- 
plies the  cultivation  of  grains  and  staple 
crops,  it  would  be  inferior  to  the  Atlantic 
States,  though  many  parts  are  i<uperior  for 
wheat ;  while  in  the  rearing  of  docks  and 
herds  it  would  claim  a  high  place.  Its 
grazing  capabilities  are  great ;  and  even  in 
the  in''igenous  grass  now  there,  an  element 
of  individual  and  n:  tionul  wealth  may  be 
found.  In  fact,  the  valuable  grasses  begin 
within  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  the 
Missouri  frontier,  and  extend  to  the  Pacifio 
ocean.  East  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  it  is 
the  short  curly  grass,  on  which  the  buffalo 
delight  to  feed,  (whence  its  name  of  buffalo,) 
and  which  is  still  good  when  dry  and  appa- 
rently dead.  West  of  those  mountains  it  is 
a  larger  growth,  in  clusters,  and  hence  called 
bunch  grass,  and  which  has  a  second  or  fall 
growth.  Plains  and  mountains  both  exhibit 
them  ;  and  I  have  seen  good  pasturage  at  an 
elevation  of  ten  thousand   feet.     In  this 


river  lliut  Hii|i|il|rH  flih, 
y  rppiilso  ilic  niidflrable 
l)it  is  till)  luruetit  animal 
«rt ;  itN  IIi'mIi  nirorila  • 
luir  l)a((-lilie  ciivcrin|{  ia 
Tiiu  will!  nago  in  tlisii 
ere  it  in  of  extrnordi- 
ii'>i«  ;i  font  III  diameter, 
cut  liiKli.  It  e*!rvu8  fur 
iitcriiil,  lor  Bheltor  to  tlia 
nil)  sort  of  I'ovuriiiK  for 
in  cold  wo.itliur.  Suoli 
tlin  inlmi>itaMla  iiiid  pro- 
rent  HuNin ;  iiiid  which, 
niiNt  havH  soiiio  founda- 
)ur  dpsiro  to  know   the 

if  such  a  duHo  rt,  and  audi 
I'lly  ill  our  country,  iiiid 
t  Aniorican  iiicns.  Inte 
oir  own  Mystciiis  of  liiiiet 
en  sterile,  iiro  connnnn 
ao\)]{3  atill  in  tlin  idunicn- 
?8,  liviiiff  in  dfMt'ris,  with 
n  than  the  iiirro  aiiinml 
ay  still  1)0  fiecir  in  that 
he  gl»be  ;  hut  in  Ainori- 
B  new  and  strange,  un- 
pectRil.  and  discredited 
ut  I  flatter  myself  that 
I,  thonj^li  not  enough  to 
snflicient  to  excite  it,  an4 
[;plorations  will  complete 
imenoed. 

'  the  Great  ]Sasin,  it  will 
ilonga  to  the  Alta  Caii- 
I  application  lo  Oregon, 
may  justify  a  separate 
(jf  to  my  journal  for  par- 
1,  and  lor  sectional  houn- 
id  and  bad  districts,  1  can 
I  and  comparative  terms, 
1  of  aq;riculture  which  im- 
)n  of  grains  and  staple 
inferior  to  the  Atlantic 
ny  parts  are  superior  for 
lie  rearing  of  flocks  and 
aim  a  high  place.  Ita 
I  are  great ;  and  even  in 
IS  now  there,  an  element 
m  tional  wealth  may  be 
3  valuable  grasses  begin 
i  and  iiftv  miles  of  the 
nd  extend  to  the  Paciiio 
3  Rocky  mountains,  it  is 
B8,  on  which  the  bufTalo 
ence  ita  name  of  bufTalo,) 
ood  when  dry  and  appa- 
:  of  those  mountains  it  ia 
lusters,  and  henee  called 
hich  has  a  second  or  fall 
d  mountains  both  exhibit 
sen  good  pasturage  at  an 
iiousand    feet.     In  thia 


1844.] 


CAl'T    FUK.MONT'S  NARHATIVK. 


m 


■|innianenus  prodiir-t  the  trading  or  travelling 
caravans  can  timl  luliBistence  for  their  ani- 
mals ;  and  iii  military  operations  any  num- 
ber of  cavalry  may  be  moved,  and  any  iinin- 
her  of  cuttle  may  lie  driven  ;  and  thus  men 
and  horses  ho  siippiirted  on  longcx|ii'dilions, 
and  evru  in  winter,  in  the  sheltered  situa- 
tions. 

f'ommorcially,  the  Taiue  of  the  Oregon 
country  inuNt  tie  groat,  washed  as  it  is  by 
the  north  I'acifu:  ocean — fronting  Asia — 
producing  many  of  the  elements  of  com- 
merce— mild  and  healthy  in  its  climate — 
and  becoming,  as  it  naturally  will,  a  tho- 
roughfare fur  the  Kast  India  and  China 
trade. 

Turning  our  faces  once  more  eastward, 
on  thp  morning  of  the  '27th  we  left  the  Utah 
lake,  and  continued  for  two  days  to  ascend 
the  Spanish  fork,  which  is  dispersed  in  nu- 
merous branches  among  very  rugged  moun- 
tains, which  afford  few  passes,  and  render  a 
familiar  acquaintance  with  them  necessary 
to  the  traveller.  The  stream  can  scarcely 
bo  said  to  have  a  valley,  the  mountains  rising 
oAen  abruptly  from  the  water's  edge  ;  but  a 
good  trail  facilitated  our  travelling,  and  there 
were  frequent  buttoms.  covered  with  excel- 
lent grass.  The  streama  are  prettily  and 
variously  wooded ;  and  everywhere  the 
mountain  shows  grass  and  timber. 

At  our  encampment  on  the  evening  of  the 
96th,  near  the  head  of  one  of  the  branches 
we  had  ascended,  strata  of  bituminous  lime- 
atone  were  displayed  in  an  escarpment  on  the 
river  blufl's,  in  which  were  contained  a  vari- 
ety of  fossil  shells  of  new  species. 

It  will  be  remembered,  that  in  crossing 
this  ridge  about  ISO  miles  to  the  northward 
<n  August  last,  strata  of  fussiliferous  rock 
were  discovered,  which  have  been  referred 
to  the  oolitic  period  ;  it  is  probable  that 
these  rocks  also  belong  to  the  same  forma- 
tion. 

A  few  miles  f-'om  this  encampment  wo 
reached  the  bed  of  the  stream  ;  and  cross- 
ing, by  an  open  and  easy  pass,  the  dividing 
ridge  which  separates  the  waters  of  the 
Great  Basin  from  those  of  the  Colorado, 
we  reached  the  head  branches  of  one  of  its 
larger  tributaries,  which,  from  the  decided 
color  of  its  waters,  has  received  the  name 
of  White  river.  The  snows  of  the  moun- 
tains were  now  beginning  4o  melt,  and  all 
the  little  rivulets  were  running  by  in  rivers, 
and  rapidly  becoming  diiflcult  to  ford.  Con- 
tinuing a  few  miles  up  a  L/anch  of  White 
river,  we  crossed  a  dividing  ridge  between 
its  waters  and  those  of  the  Uintah.  The 
approach  to  the  pass,  which  is  the  best 
known  to  Mr.  Walker,  was  somewhat  difH- 
cult  for  packs,  and  impracticable  for  wag- 
>—    all  the  streams  being  shut  in  by  nar- 


row ravines,  and  the  narrow  trail  along  the 
steep  hill  sides  allowing  tliu  pussnge  of  inly 
one  animal  at  a  time.  I'rom  the  Hiiiuinit  we 
had  a  fine  view  of  the  snowy  Dear  Itiver 
range  ;  and  there  were  still  remaining  beds 
of  snow  on  the  cold  sides  of  the  hills  near 
the  pass.  We  descended  by  a  narrow  ra- 
vine, in  which  was  rapidly  gathered  a  little 
branch  of  the  Uintah,  and  halted  to  noon 
about  1,000  feet  briiiw  the  pasH,  at  an  ele- 
vation, by  the  boiling  point,  of  fl.UOO  feet 
above  the  sea. 

The  next  day  we  dosrended  along  the 
river,  and  about  noon  reached  a  point  where 
three  forks  come  together.  Fording  one  of 
those  with  some  difliciilty,  wo  continued  up 
the  middle  branch,  which,  from  the  color  of 
its  waters,  is  named  the  lied  river.  The  few 
passes,  and  extremely  rugged  nature  of  the 
country,  give  to  it  great  strength,  and  secure 
the  Utahs  from  the  intrusion  of  their  ene- 
mies. Crossing  in  the  afternoon  a  some- 
what broken  highland,  covered  in  places 
with  fine  grasses,  and  with  cedar  on  the  hill 
sides,  we  encamped  at  evening  on  another 
tributary  to  the  Uinlah,  called  the  Duchesne 
fork.  The  water  was  very  clear,  the  stream 
not  being  yet  swollen  by  the  melting  snows  ; 
and  wo  forded  it  without  any  diliiculty.  It 
is  a  considerable  branch,  being  spread  out 
by  islands,  the  largest  arm  being  about  a 
hundred  feet  wide ;  and  the  name  it  boars 
is  probably  that  of  some  old  French  trap- 
per. 

The  next  day  we  continued  down  the 
river,  which  we  were  twice  obliged  to  cross ; 
and,  the  water  having  risen  during  the  night, 
it  was  almost  everywhere  too  deep  to  be 
forded.  After  travelling  about  sixteen 
miles,  we  encamped  again  on  the  left  bank. 

I  obtained  here  an  occultation  of  '  Scor- 
pii  at  the  dark  limb  of  the  moon,  which 
gives  for  the  longitude  of  the  place  112° 
18'  30",  and  the  latitude  40°  18'  53". 

June  1. — We  left  to-day  the  Duchesne 
fork,  and,  after  traversing  a  broken  country 
for  about  sixteen  miles,  arrived  at  noon  at 
another  considerable  branch,  a  river  of  great 
velocity,  to  which  the  trappers  have  im- 
properly given  the  name  of  Lake  fork.  The 
name  applied  to  it  by  the  Indians  signifies 
great  swiAness,  and  is  the  same  which  they 
use  to  express  the  speed  of  a  racehorse. 
It  is  spread  out  in  various  channels  over 
several  hundred  yards,  and  is  everywhere 
too  deep  and  swiH  to  be  forded.  At  thia 
season  of  the  year,  there  is  an  uninterrupted 
noise  from  the  large  rocks  which  are  rolled 
along  the  bed.  After  infinite  difficulty,  and 
the  delay  of  a  day,  we  succeeded  in  getting 
the  stream  bridged,  and  got  over  with  the 
loss  of  one  of  our  animals.  Continuing  our 
route  across  a  broken  country,  of  which  the 
higher  parts  were  rocky  and  timbered  whk 


jiki 


174 


TAI'T.  FUKMONT'S  NARUATIVK. 


[IHU 


•edar,  nml  llin  lowi>r  purtu  rovoreil  with 
Kood  uriiH-<,  wn  ri<:ti<lit<il,  on  llin  iirtoinoon  nl' 
Iho  Hil,  tli(^  I'liitiili  fori,  A  iriiiliiiK  ixmt  hn- 
longiri);  id  Mr.  A,  Itoiibiileuii, on  tlin  |iriiii!i- 
pal  fork  III'  iliti  Ilintiili  rivrr,  Wii  (ttmui  tliu 
ktCB'i'o  rtnirly  at  rii|iir|  mid  difliiMilt  its  tin! 
Lake  I  'ik,  liiviiioii  intii  iinvoral  chunncU, 
which  wiMc  lull  hiottd  to  ho  hri(l){<'(l.  Willi 
ilm  aid  ol'^iiidi'n  from  the  fort,  wn  siiccurd- 
•d,  witli  very  \t(f>ixl  dillicully,  in  fiinling  it  ; 
and  encani|>('(i  nr>ar  tho  fort,  which  in  ailii- 
aled  u  hIkiiI  diHtaiu-d  illmve  tho  junutiiin  of 
two  hruniheo  MJiich  muke  llin  river. 

l)y  un  iinnicrsion  of  tho  Isi  Miitollito, 
(agreeing  well  with  tho  roHiilt  of  tho  occul- 
tatinn  ulmervcd  nt  iho  Ducheiino  fork,)  the 
longitude  of  thn  post  ia  lOU^  00'  4-J",  tho 
latitude  M'  a?'  15'. 

It  huB  u  niiitloy  garrison  of  Canadian  and 
SpaniHh  tmraifrx  ttm\  huntem,  with  the  uitnal 
number  of  Indian  women.  We  obtained  a 
■mull  supply  of  augar  and  cofTco,  with  some 
dried  meat  and  a  cow,  which  was  a  very 
acceptable  change  from  tho  pinoli  on  wbioli 
we  had  RuliHisted  for  some  weeks  pamt.  I 
strengthened  my  party  nt  this  place  by  the 
addition  of  Augusto  .\rchanibcan,  an  ox- 
cellent  voyageur  and  hunter,  belonging  to 
tho  class  of  Carson  and  Godey. 

On  the  morning  of  tho  0th  we  left  the 
fort*  and  tho  Uintah  river,  and  continued 
our  road  over  a  broken  country,  which  af- 
forded, however,  a  rich  addition  to  our  bo- 
tanical collection  ;  and,  after  a  march  of 
35  miles,  were  again  checked  by  another 
stream,  called  Ashley's  fork,  where  we 
were  detained  until  noon  of  tho  next  day. 

An  immersion  of  the  3d  satellite  gave  for 
this  place  a  longitude  of  100°  27'  07",  the 
latitude  by  observation  being  40^  28'  07". 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day  we  suo- 
ceeded  in  iiiiding  a  ford  ;  and,  after  travel- 
ling fifteen  miles,  encamped  high  up  on  tho 
mountain  side,  where  .we  found  excellent 
and  abundant  grass,  which  wo  had  not  hith- 
erto seen.  A  new  species  oi  tlyrims,  which 
had  a  purcative  and  weakening  effect  upon 
Uio  animals,  had  occurred  abundantly  since 
leaving  tho  fort.  From  this  point,  by  ob- 
servation 7,300  feet  above  the  sea,  we  had 
a  view  of  the  Colorado  below,  shut  up 
amongst  rugged  mountains,  and  which  is 
the  recipient  of  all  the  streams  we  had  been 
crossing  since  we  passed  the  rim  of  the 
Great  Basin  at  the  head  of  the  Spanish 
fork. 

On  the  7th  we  had  a  pleasant  but  long 

<*  This  fort  was  attacked  and  taken  by  a 
baud  of  the  Utah  Indians  since  we  passed  It ; 
and  the  men  of  the  garrison  killed,  the  women 
carried  oil'.  Mr.  Roubideau,  »  trader  of  St. 
Louis,  was  absent,  and  so  escaped  the  fate  of 


day's  Joiirnny,  through  hoautlfiil  little  val- 
leys and  a  high  mountain  country,  arrivini 
about  evrniiig  nt  thn  vcrgn  of  a  Nici'p  anil 
rocky  raviiin,  by  which  wo  dcHi-ciiilcd  to 
"  Urown'n  hiile."  This  is  a  placo  w*ll 
known  to  trapiieri  in  thn  c<iiiiitry,  whcro  tlia 
caiionH  throiign  which  tho  I'olnrudii  runs  ex- 
pand into  a  narrow  but  prctly  valh^y,  about 
Dixtcnn  miles  in  length.  'I'lio  rivitr  was 
Movoral  hiiiidrnd  yardii  in  brciidtli,  swollen 
to  the  top  of  its  banks,  near  to  wliicli  it  was 
ill  many  places  fif'tcun  to  twenty  feet  deep. 
Wo  rojiaircd  a  ttkin  boat  which  had  been 
purchased  at  the  fort,  and,  after  a  delay  of  a 
d.'iy,  reached  tho  oftposito  b:iiilis  with  much 
Ighs  delay  than  had  been  enciMiiitcred  on  the 
Uintah  wati^rn.  According;  to  iiiloniiation, 
tho  lower  end  of  tho  valley  is  liie  in<i»<l 
eastern  part  of  tho  ('olorado  ;  and  '.be  lati- 
tude of  our  encampment,  whi-'i  was  upuo- 
site  to  thn  remains  of  an  old  fort  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  rivor,  was  40-'  4B'  27",  and,  by 
observation,  the  elevation  abovo  the  sea 
6,100  feet,  'i'ho  bearing  to  tho  entranoo 
of  the  canon  below  was  south  20^^  east. 
Here  the  river  enters  between  lolVy  preci- 
pices of  red  rock,  and  the  country  below  is 
said  to  asaumo  a  very  rugged  character ; 
tho  river  and  its  aflluiMits  passing  through 
cai^ons  which  forbid  all  access  to  thn  water. 
This  sheltered  littlo  valley  was  formerly  a 
favorite  wintering  ground  fur  the  trappers, 
as  it  aflbrded  them  sutlicient  pasturage  for 
their  animals,  and  the  surrounding  maun- 
tains  are  well  stocked  with  game. 

We  surprised  a  flock  of  mountain  sheop  as 
wo  descended  to  the  river,  and  our  buntert 
killed  several.  The  bottoms  of  a  small 
stream  called  the  Vermilion  creek,  which 
enters  the  left  bank  of  the  river  a  short  dis- 
tance below  our  encampment,  were  covered 
abundantly  with  F.  vcrmicularia,  and  other 
chenopodiaccous  shrubs.  From  the  lower 
end  of  Urown's  hole  wo  issued  by  a  remark- 
obly  dry  cation,  fifty  or  sixty  yards  wide, 
and  rising,  as  we  advanced,  to  the  heigh; 
of  six  or  eight  hundred  feet.  Issuing  from 
this,  and  crossing  a  small  green  valley,  we 
entered  another  rent  of  the  same  nature, 
still  narrower  than  the  otiier,  tho  rocks  on 
either  side  rising  in  nearly  vertical  precipi- 
ces perhaps  1,500  feet  in  height.  Thest 
places  are  mentioned,  to  give  some  idea  of' 
the  country  lower  down  on  the  Colorado 
to  which  the  trappers  usually  apply  th« 
name  of  a  caiion  country.  The  caAon 
opened  upon  a  pond  of  water,  where  w« 
halted  to  noon.  Several  flocks  of  mountain 
sheep  were  here  among  the  rocks,  which 
rung  with  volleys  of  small  arme.  In  the 
afternoon  wo  entered  Mpon  an  ugly,  barren, 
and  broken  country,  coi-respoiiding  well  with 
that  wo  bad  traversed  a  few  do{(ree8  north, 
on  the  same  side  of  the  Colorado.     Thr 


'I 


xi^li  boaiitiriil  littio  vol- 
luiitfiiii  niiiiitry,  nrrivirii 
lin  viTK"  <>(  «  HliM'p  nni] 
wliicli   Mil   ilrnciniclcd   to 
I'hia   ia   ii   iilacn    wtll 
ill  tlin  ('(iiiiitry,  vvIkto  llio 
ii'h  tliu  Ciiloruilii  ruiincx- 
liiit  |irctlv  vallciy,  iibout 
oiijjth.      'rim   rivnr  wu» 
ariln  in  liriMullh,  hwiiIIoii 
iki,  hour  til  wliutli  It  wn( 
i!un  to  twriity  lent  ilnep. 
boat  wlijrli  hail  buun 
rt,  anil,  al'tor  »  ilnlay  of  a 
)>|ioMitu  biiiilis  witli  flinch 
biH'ii  Aiiciiiiiiti>ri>il  on  the 
ccoriiiii^r  III  iiiriiriii:itiiin, 
tlin  valley  in    tin'    iiiiiht 
(yoloraiio  ;   and  tlio  lati- 
piiioiit,  wh!  •')  wan  iippo- 
of  an  old  fori  on  the  loft 
was  40^  48'  a?  ",  and,  by 
Invation   above    the  aea 
boarini;  to  the  entrance 
w   was  south  aO"  east, 
em   bt-tweon  lol\y  preci- 
and  tlic  country  below  is 
very  ru);gcd  eliaractor  ; 
iflluiMilH  pasiiinif'  through 
I  all  access  to  tho  water. 
Ic  valley  was  Coriiicrly  a 
ground  for  the  traiipcra, 
n  sutlicient  patitura),'«  tor 
the  surrounding  nieun- 
ked  with  game, 
loek  of  mountain  sheep  a* 
lie  river,  and  our  buntert 
'he   bottoms   of  u  small 
Vermilion  creek,  which 
(  of  the  river  a  short  dis- 
oatnpmoiit,  were  covered 
.  vcrrnicularis,  and  other 
hrubs.     From  the  lower 
e  wo  issued  by  a  remark- 
I'ty  or  sixty  yards  wide, 
fidvunced,  to  the  height 
idred  feet.     Issuing  from 
a  small  green  valley,  we 
:nt  of  the  same  nature, 
1  the  other,  the  rocks  on 
n  nearly  vertical  precijii- 
fect  in  height.     Thess 
ed,  to  give  some  idea  o|' 
down  on  the  Colorado 
ppers  usually  apply  th« 
country.       The   caAon 
nd  of  water,  where  w« 
Bveral  flocks  of  mountain 
mon(r  the  rocks,  which 
of  fimall  arme.    In  the 
!d  >ipon  an  ugly,  barren, 
, coiresponding  well  with 
«d  a  few  degrees  north, 
of  the  Colorado.    Thr' 


IM4.] 


CAl'T.  Fill:  MO  NTH  N.VitUVTlVF. 


Hi 


V«nnilinn  rrrrk  nlTiirted  u*  brackmh  water 
and  initillVreiit  \itnn^  fur  the  night. 

A  fi'w  KiMtiorcd  pi'ilar  trees  worn  llir 
nnly  inipriivi'Mii'iii.  o  the  coiiiitry  ini  tlii<  fol- 
lowing day  ;  and  at  a  little  spring  of  biiil 
water,  where  wo  liiilted  to  nnoii,  we  had  not 
uven  the  shelter  of  tliene  front  the  hot  riiyx 
nf  the  sun.  At  nii;lit  we  eneaniiied  in  a  fine 
grove  of  ciitloii.wooil  trcen,  on  the  Iciiikn  of 
the  KIk  Head  river,  the  principal  fork  of 
the  Yampah  river,  eoiniiionlv  called  by  the 
trappers  the  Hear  river.  VV'e  made  here,  a 
very  strong  ninil  and  fort,  and  formed  the 
camp  into  viuilant  giiarila.  The  country  w*! 
wore  now  entering  is  constantly  infested  by 
war  parlicM  of  the  .Sioiix  and  other  Indians, 
and  is  coiiHliiered  atnoiig  tho  most  dangerous 
war  grouiiil.s  in  the  Kiicky  inoiintains  ;  par- 
tics  of  wliJicH  hiiving  been  repeatedly  de- 
feated on  tliJK  river. 

On  the  1  lib  wu  continued  up  the  river, 
which  is  a  eon.slderablo  stream,  fil\y  to  a 
hundred  y.irilN  in  width,  hnnilsomcly  and 
continuouxly  wooded  with  groves  of  tho 
narrow-leaved  cotton-wood,  (populnn  an- 
yuslifolia :)  Willi  these  were  thickets  of 
willow  and  grain  ilu  bmif.  Tho  character- 
istic plant  along  tho  river  is  F.  vermicii.'a- 
rtt,  which  generally  cvers  the  bottoms  ; 
mingled  with  this,  are  saline  shrubs  and  ar- 
tomisia.  Tho  new  variety  of  grass  which 
we  had  seen  on  leaving  the  Uintah  f  i  iiad 
now  disappeared.  Tho  country  on  .  .ther 
side  was  sandy  and  poor,  scantily  wooded 
with  cedars,  but  the  river  bottoms  afTord- 
ed  good  pasture.  Three  antclo|ies  were 
killed  in  tho  iftcrnoon,  and  we  encamped  a 
little  below  a  branch  of  the  river,  called  St. 
V^ rain's  fork.  A  few  miles  above  was  the 
ort  at  which  Frapp's  party  had  been  de- 
feated two  years  since  ;  and  we  passed  dur- 
ing the  diky  a  place  where  Carson  had  been 
fired  upon  so  close  that  one  of  the  men  had 
five  bullets  through  his  body.  Leaving 
this  river  the  ne.  t  morning,  wo  took  our 
wav  across  the  hills,  where  every  hollow 
had  a  spring  of  ruiiii.ng  water,  with  good 
grass. 

Yesterday  and  to-day  we  have  had  before 
our  eyes  the  high  mountains  which  divide 
the  Pacific  from  the  Mississippi  waters : 
and  entering  here  among  the  lower  spurs, 
or  foot  hills  of  the  range,  the  face  of  tho 
country  began  to  improve  with  a  magical 
rapidity.  Not  only  the  river  bottoms,  but 
the  hills,  were  covered  with  grass ;  and 
among  the  usual  varied  flora  of  the  moun- 
tain region,  these  were  occasionally  blue 
with  the  showy  bloom  of  a  lupinus.  In  the 
coiiTse  of  tho  morning  we  had  the  first  glad 
Tiew  of  buffalo,  and  welcomed  the  appear- 
ance of  two  old  bulls  with  as  much  joy  as  if 
they  had  been  messengers  from  home  ;  and 
wImd  we  descended  to  noon  on  St.  Train's 


fork,  an  alfliient  of  Crecn  river,  tho  hiii  ters 
brought  in  moiintaiii  Hlie>'|i  iind  the  mnat  of 
two  fit  liiilJN.  l''ri'^li  eiiir:iiU  III  llie  river 
kIiiiwi  il  UK  that  tlieie  were  liiilinii.i  above  ; 
and,  at  eveniii;;.  |iiilKiiig  it  iiiiMale  to  encamp 
ill  the  liottoins,  which  were  wooded  only  with 
willow  ihirketfi,  we  aNcendi'il  to  the  npiirs 
above,  and  forted  Ktroiigiy  in  a  niiiall  anpnn 
grove,  near  to  wlilrli  w:in  a  sprini;  of  cold 
water.  The  hunters  killerl  two  line  cows 
near  the  camp.  A  band  of  elk  broke  out  ol 
a  neighlioring  grove  ,  aiitelopcM  were  run- 
ning over  the  hilln;  and  on  the  oppo^'ito 
river  plains,  liordx  of  biilTklo  were  raining 
cli.uds  of  (liiHt,  'I'liii  country  here  appeared 
more  varioucly  stocked  with  game  than  any 
part  of  the  Itocky  iiioiiiitaiiiK  we  had  vixit' 
ed  ;  and  its  uliiiiiilaiicu  is  owing  t'l  the  ux 
collciit  pasturage,  and  its  dangerous  chur 
actor  a^  a  war  grouml. 

June  13. — Tlii're  was  snow  hero  neat 
our  mountain  camp,  and  the  iiioriiiiig  wa* 
beautiful  and  cool.  Leaving  Nt.  V rain's 
fork,  wo  took  our  way  directly  towards  the 
NUir.mit  of  the  dividing  ridge,  'i'ho  bot- 
toms of  the  Ktreams  ami  level  places  were 
wooded  with  aspen.i ;  and  as  wo  ncarcd  the 
summit,  we  entered  again  the  piny  region. 
We  had  a  delightful  morning's  ride,  the 
ground  affording  us  an  excellent  bridle  patl', 
and  reiiehed  the  summit  towards  midday,  at 
an  elevation  of  8,000  fett.  With  joy  and 
exultation  we  saw  oiir.selveH  once  more  on 
the  lop  of  the  Itocky  mountains,  and  beheld 
a  liitle  stream  taking  its  course  towards  tho 
rising  sun.  It  was  an  affluent  nf  the  Platte, 
called  Pii/ltiin\i  fork,  and  wc  descended  to 
noon  upon  it.  It  is  a  pretty  stream,  twenty 
yards  broad,  and  bcnrs  the  name  of  a  trap- 
per who,  some  vears  HJncc,  was  killed  here 
by  tho  liros  Venire  Indians. 

Issuing  from  the  pines  in  the  afternoon, 
we  saw  spread  out  liefure  u.s  tho  valley  of 
tho  Platte,  with  the  pass  of  the  Medicine 
Butte  beyond,  and  some  of  the  Sweet  Water 
mountains  ;  but  a  smoky  haziness  in  tho  air 
entirely  obscured  the  Wind  Kiver  chsin. 

W»>  '••  .e  now  about  two  degrees  si  'th  of 
the  South  Pass,  and  our  course  home  would 
have  been  eastwardly  ;  but  that  would  have 
taken  us  over  ground  already  examined, 
and  therefore  without  the  interest  which 
would  excite  curiosity.  iSouthwardly  there 
were  objects  worthy  to  be  explored,  to  wit  : 
the  approximation  of  the  head  waters  of 
three  different  rivers — tho  Platte,  tho  Ar- 
kansas, and  the  Grand  Kiver  fork  of  the  Rio 
Colorado  of  the  gulf  of  California ;  the  Pass- 
es at  the  heads  of  these  rivers ;  and  tho 
three  remarkable  mountain  coves,  called 
Parks,  in  which  they  took  their  rise.  One 
of  these  Parks  was,  of  course,  on  the  west- 
ern side  of  the  dividing  ridge ;  and  a  visit 
to  it  would  require  us  once  more  to  cmw 


176 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[18U 


the  summit  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the 
west,  and  then  to  recross  to  the  east ; 
making,  in  all,  with  the  transit  we  had  just 
accomplished,  three  crossings  of  that  moun- 
tain in  this  section  of  its  course.  But,  no 
matter.  The  coves,  tho  heads  of  the  rivers, 
the  approximation  of  their  waters,  the  prac- 
ticability of  the  mountain  passes,  and  the 
locality  of  the  threk  Parks,  were  all  ob- 
jects of  interest,  and,  although  well  known 
to  hunters  and  trappers,  were  unknown  to 
science  and  to  history.  We  therefore 
changed  our  course,  and  turned  up  the  val- 
ley of  the  Platte  instead  of  going  down  it. 

We  crossed  several  small  affluents,  and 
again  made  a  fortified  camp  in  a  grove. 
The  country  had  now  become  very  beauti- 
ful— rich  in  water,  grass,  and  game  ;  and  to 
these  were  added  the  charm  of  scenery  and 
pleasant  weather. 

June  14. — Our  route  this  morning  lay 
along  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  over  the 
long  low  spurs  which  sloped  gradually  down 
to  the  river,  forming  the  broad  valley  of  the 
Platte.  The  country  is  beautifully  watered. 
In  almost  every  hollow  ran  a  clear,  cool 
mountain  stream  ;  and  in  the  course  of  the 
morning  we  crossed  seventeen,  several  of 
them  being  large  creeks,  forty  to  fifty  feet 
wide,  with  a  swift  current,  and  tolerably 
deep.  These  were  va»iou8ly  wooded  with 
groves  of  aspen  and  cotton-wood,  with  wil- 
low, cherry,  and  other  shrubby  trees.  Buf- 
falo, antelope,  and  elk,  were  frequent  dur- 
ing the  day  ;  and,  in  their  abundance,  the 
latter  sometimes  reminded  us  slightly  of 
the  Sacramento  valley. 

We  halted  at  noon  on  Potter's  fork — a 
clear  and  swift  stream,  forty  yards  wide, 
and  in  many  places  deep  enough  to  swim 
our  animals  ;  and  in  the  evening  encamped 
on  a  pretty  stream,  where  there  were  sever- 
al beaver  dams,  and  many  trees  recently  cut 
down  by  the  beaver.  We  gave  to  this  the 
name  of  Beaver  Dam  creek,  as  now  they 
are  becoming  sufficiently  rare  to  distinguish 
by  their  name  the  streams  on  which  they 
are  found.  In  this  mountain  they  occurred 
more  abundantly  than  elsewhere  in  all  our 
journey,  in  which  their  vestiges  had  been 
scarcely  seoii. 

The  next  day  we  continued  our  ■ourney 
up  the  valley,  the  country  presenting  much 
the  same  appearance,  except  that  the  grass 
was  more  scanty  on  the  ridges,  over  which 
was  spread  a  scrubby  growth  of  sage ;  but 
still  the  bottoms  of  the  creeks  were  broad, 
and  afforded  good  pasture  grounds.  We 
had  an  animated  chase  after  a  grizzly  bear 
this  morning,  which  we  tried  to  lasso.  Fu- 
entes  threw  the  lasso  upon  his  neck,  but  it 
slipped  off,  and  he  escaped  into  the  dense 
thickets  of  the  creek,  into  which  we  did  not 
like  to  venture.    Our  course  in  the  after- 


noon brought  us  to  the  main  Platte  river, 
here  a  handsome  stream,  with  a  uniform 
breadth  of  seventy  yards,  except  where 
widened  by  frequent  islands.  It  was  appa- 
rently deep,  with  a  moderate  current,  an^ 
wooded  with  groves  of  large  willow. 

The  valley  narrowed  as  we  ascended,  and 
presently  degenerated  into  a  gorge,  through 
which  the  river  passed  as  through  a  gate. 
We  entered  it,  and  found  ourselves  in  the 
New  Park — a  beautiful  circular  valley  ol 
thirty  miles  diameter,  walled  in  all  round 
with  snowy  mountains,  rich  with  water  and 
with  grass,  fringed  with  pine  on  the  moun- 
tain sides  below  the  snow  line,  and  a  para- 
dise to  all  grazing  animals.  The  Indian 
name  for  it  signifies  "  cow  lodge,"  of  which 
our  own  may  be  considered  a  translation ' 
the  enclosure,  the  grass,  the  water,  and  t\\t 
herds  of  buffalo  roaming  over  it,  naturally 
presenting  the  idea  of  a  park.  We  halted 
for  the  night  just  within  the  gate,  and  ex- 
pected, as  usual,  to  see  herds  of  buffalo , 
but  an  Arapahoe  village  had  been  before 
us,  and  not  one  was  to  be  seen.  Latitude 
of  the  encampment  40°  52'  44".  Elevation 
by  the  boiling  point  7,720  feet. 

It  is  from  this  elevated  cove,  and  from  the 
gorges  of  the  surrounding  mountains,  and 
some  lakes  within  their  bosoms,  that  the 
Great  Platte  river  collects  its  first  waters, 
and  assumes  its  first  form  ;  and 'certainly  no 
river  could  ask  a  more  beautiful  origin. 

June  16. — In  the  morning  we  pursued 
our  way  through  the  Park,  following  a 
principal  branch  of  the  Platte,  and  crossing, 
among  many  smaller  ones,  a  bold  stream, 
scarcely  fordable,  called  Lodge  Pole  fork, 
and  which  issues  from  a  lake  in  the  moun- 
tains on  the  right,  ten  miles  long.  In  the 
evening  we  encamped  on  a  small  stream, 
near  the  upper  end  of  the  Park.  Latitude 
of  the  camp  40°  33'  23". 

June  17. — ^We  continued  our  way  among 
the  waters  of  the  Park,  over  the  foot  hills 
of  the  bordering  mountains,  where  we 
found  good  pasturage,  and  si^rprised  and 
killed  some  buffalo.  We  fell  into  a  broad 
and  excellent  trail,  made  by  buffalo,  where 
a  wagon  would  pass  with  ease ;  and,  in  the 
course  of  the  morning,  we  crossed  the 
summit  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  through  a 
pass  which  was  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
we  had  ever  seen.  The  trail  led  amcriig 
the  aspens,  through  open  grounds,  richly 
covered  with  grass,  and  carried  us  over  an 
elevation  of  about  9,000  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea. 

The  country  appeared  to  great  advantsge 
in  the  delightful  summer  weather  of  the 
mountains,  which  we  still  continued  to  en- 
joy. Descending  from  the  pass,  we  found 
ourselves  again  on  the  western  waters ;  and 
halted  to  noon  on  the  edge  of  anothn 


E. 


[1844. 


to  the  main  Platte  river, 
e  stream,  with  a  uniform 
nty  yards,  except  where 
lent  ii>lan(la.  It  was  appa- 
I  a  moderate  current,  an^ 
ves  of  large  willow. 

rowed  as  we  ascended,  and 
rated  into  a  gorge,  through 

passed  as  through  a  gate, 
nd  found  ourselves  in  the 
eautiful  circular  valley  ot 
neter,  walled  in  all  round 
ntains,  rich  with  water  and 
ed  with  pine  on  the  rnoun- 

the  snow  line,  and  a  para- 
ng animals.  The  Indian 
lies  "  cow  lodge"  of  which 

considered  a  translation  ■ 
e  grass,  the  water,  and  thd 

roaming  over  it,  naturally 
lea  of  a  park.  We  halted 
St  within  the  gate,  and  ex- 
1,  to  see  herds  of  buffalo , 
e  village  had  been  before 
was  to  be  seen.  Latitude 
jnt  40O  52'  44".  Elevation 
)int  7,720  feet, 
elevated  cove,  and  from  the 
urrounding  mountains,  and 
hin  their  bosoms,  that  the 
er  collects  its  first  waters, 
first  form;  and  certainly  no 
I  more  beautiful  origin. 
I  the  morning  we  pursued 
gh  the  Park,  following  a 
of  the  Platte,  and  crossing, 
(laller  ones,  a  bold  stream, 
le,  called  Lodge  Pole  fork, 
IS  from  a  lake  in  the  moun- 
ht,  ten  miles  long.  In  the 
;amped  on  a  small  stream, 
)nd  of  the  Park.  Latitude 
33'  28". 

e  continued  our  way  among 
le  Park,  over  the  foot  bills 
ng  mountains,  where  we 
iturage,  and  surprised  and 
falo.  We  fell  into  a  broad 
rail,  made  by  buffalo,  where 
pass  with  ease  ;  and,  in  the 
morning,  we  crossed  the 
locky  mountains,  through  a 
one  of  the  most  beautiful 
ien.  The  trail  led  ani(!iiig 
ough  open  grounds,  richly 
ass,  and  carried  us  over  an 
It  9,000  feet  above  the  level 

tppeared  to  great  advantsge 
il  summer  weather  of  the 
ih  we  still  continued  to  en- 
ig  from  the  pass,  we  found 
on  the  western  waters ;  and 
on  the  edge  of  anothei 


1844.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


177 


nountain  valley,  called  the  Old  Park,  in 
which  is  formed  Grand  river,  one  of  the 
principal  branches  of  the  Colorado  of  Cali- 
fornia. We  were  now  moving  with  some 
caution,  as,  from  the  trail,  we  found  the 
Arapahoe  village  had  also  passed  this  way. 
As  we  were  coming  out  of  their  enemy's 
country,  and  this  was  a  war  ground,  we 
were  desirous  to  avoid  them.  After  a  long 
afternoon's  march,  we  halted  at  night  on  a 
small  creek,  tributary  to  a  main  fork  of 
Grand  river,  which  ran  through  this  portion 
of  the  valley.  The  appearance  of  the 
country  in  the  Old  Park  is  interesting, 
though  of  a  different  character  from  the 
New ;  instead  of  being  a  comparative  plain, 
it  is  more  or  less  broke.i  into  hills,  and  sur- 
rounded by  the  high  mountains,  timbered 
on  the  lower  parts  with  quaking  asp  and 
pines. 

June  18. — Our  scouts,  who  were  as  usual 
ahead,  made  from  a  butte  this  morning  the 
signal  of  Indians,  and  we  rode  up  in  time  to 
meet  a  party  of  about  30  Arapahoes.  They 
were  men  and  women  going  into  the  hills — 
the  men  for  game,  the  women  for  roots — 
and  informed  us  that  the  village  was  ea- 
camped  a  few  miles  above,  on  the  main 
fork  of  Grand  river,  which  passes  through 
the  midst  of  the  valley.  I  made  them  the 
usual  presents ;  but  they  appeared  disposed 
to  be  unfriendly,  and  galloped  back  at  speed 
to  the  village.  Knowing  that  we  had 
trouble  to  expect,  I  desoended  immediately 
into  the  bottoms  of  Grand  river,  which 
were  overflowed  in  places,  the  river  being 
up,  and  made  the  best  encampment  the 
ground  afforded.  We  had  no  time  to  build 
a  fort,  but  found  an  open  place  among  the 
willows,  which  was  defended  by  the  river 
on  one  side  and  the  overflowed  bottoms  on 
the  other.  We  had  scarcely  made  our  few 
preparations,  when  about  200  of  them  ap- 
peared on  the  verge  of  the  bottom,  mount- 
ed, painted,  and  armed  for  war.  We 
planted  the  American  flag  between  us ;  and  a 
short  parley  ended  in  a  truce,  with  some- 
thing more  than  the  usual  amount  of  pres- 
ents. About  20  Sioux  were  with  them — 
one  of  them  an  old  chief,  who  had  always 
been  friendly  to  the  whites.  He  informed 
me  that,  before  coming  down,  a  council 
had  been  held  at  the  vUlage,  in  which  the 
greater  part  iiad  declared  for  attacking 
us — we  had  come  from  their  enemies,  to 
whom  we  had  doubtless  been  carrying  &> 
■istance  in  arms  and  ammunition;  but  his 
own  party,  with  some  few  of  the  Arapahoes 
who  had  seen  us  the  previous  year  in  the 
plains,  opposed  it.  It  will  be  remembered 
that  it  is  customary  for  this  people  to  at- 
tack the  trading  parties  which  they  meet 
in  thia  region,  considering  all  whom  they 
meet  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountains 
13 


to  be  their  enemies.  They  deceived  me 
into  the  belief  that  I  should  find  a  ford  at 
their  village,  and  I  could  not  avoid  ac- 
companying them ;  but  put  several  sloughs 
between  us  and  their  village,  and  forted 
strongly  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  which 
was  everywhere  rapid  and  deep,  and  over 
a  hundred  yards  in  breadth.  'Phe  camp 
was  generally  crowded  with  Indians;  and 
though  the  baggage  was  carefully  watched 
and  covered,  a  number  of  things  were 
stolen. 

The  next  morning  we  descended  the 
river  for  about  eight  miles,  and  halted  a 
short  distance  above  a  canon,  through  which 
Grand  river  issues  from  the  Park.  Here 
it  was  smooth  and  deep,  150  yards  in 
breadth,  and  its  elevation  at  this  point 
6,700  feet.  A  frame  for  the  boat  being 
very  soon  made,  our  baggage  was  ferried 
across ;  the  horses,  in  the  mean  time,  swim* 
ming  over.  A  southern  fork  of  Grand 
river  hero  makes  its  junction,  nearly  op- 
posite to  the  branch  by  which  we  had  en- 
tered the  valley,  and  up  this  we  continued 
for  about  eight  miles  in  the  afternoon,  and 
encamped  in  a  bottom  on  the  left  bank, 
which  afforded  good  grass.  At  our  en- 
campment it  was  70  to  90  yards  in  breadth, 
sometimes  widened  by  islands,  and  separa- 
ted into  several  channels,  with  a  very  swift 
current  and  bed  of  rolled  rocks. 

On  the  20th  we  travelled  up  the  left  bank, 
with  the  prospect  of  a  bad  road,  the  trail 
here  taking  the  opposite  side ;  but  the 
stream  was  up,  and  nowhere  fordable.  A 
piny  ridge  of  mountains,  with  bare  rocky 
peaks,  was  on  our  right  all  the  day,  and  a 
snowy  mountain  appeared  ahead.  We 
crossed  many  foaming  torrents  with  rocky 
beds,  rushing  down  to  the  river ;  and  in  the 
evening  made  a  strong  fort  in  an  aspen 
grove.  The  valley  had  already  become 
very  narrow,  shut  up  more  closely  in 
densely  timbered  mountains,  the  pines 
sweeping  down  the  verge  of  the  bottoms. 
The  coq  de  prairie  {tetrao  europhasianus) 
was  occasionally  seen  among  the  sage. 

We  saw  to-day  the  returning  trail  of  an 
Arapahoe  party  which  had  been  sent  from 
the  village  to  look  for  Utahs  in  the  Bayou 
Salade,  (South  Park ;)  and  it  being  probable 
that  they  would  visit  our  camp  with  the 
desire  to  return  on  horseback,  we  were 
more  than  usually  on  the  alert. 

Here  the  river  diminished  to  35  yards, 
and,  notwithstanding  the  number  of  affluents 
we  had  crossed,  was  still  a  large  stream, 
dashing  swiftly  by,  with  a  great  continuous 
fall,  and  not  yet  fordable.  We  had  a  de- 
lightful ride  along  a  good  trail  among  the 
fragrant  pines ;  and  the  appearance  of  buf- 
falo in  great  numbers  indicated  that  there 
were  Indians  in  the  Bayou  Salade,  (South 


178 


CAPT.  FREMONPS  NARRATIVE. 


fl844 


Parki)  by  whom  they  were  driven  out.  We 
halted  to  noon  under  tlie  shade  of  the  pinei, 
and  the  weather  was  most  delightful.  The 
country  was  literally  alive  with  buflalo ; 
and  the  continued  echo  of  the  hunter's 
rifles  on  the  other  side  of  the  river  for  a 
moment  made  me  uneasy,  thinking  perhaps 
they  were  engaged  with  Indians ;  but  in  a 
<hort  time  they  came  into  camp  with  the 
meat  of  seven  fat  cows. 

During  the  earlier  part  of  the  day's  ride, 
the  river  had  been  merely  a  narrow  ravine 
between  high  piny  mountains,  backed  on 
loth  sides,  but  particularly  on  the  west,  by 
A  line  of  snowy  ridges ;  but,  afler  several 
hours'  ride,  the  stream  opened  out  into  a 
valley  with  pleasant  bottoms.  In  the  afVer- 
noon  the  river  forked  into  three  apparently 
equal  streams;  broad  buffalo  trails  leading 
up  the  led  hand,  and  the  middle  branch,  in- 
dicating good  passes  over  the  mountains; 
but  up  the  right-hand  branch,  (which,  in 
the  object  of  descending  from  the  mountain 
by  the  main  head  of  the  Arkansas,  I  was 
most  desirous  to  follow,)  there  was  no  sign 
of  a  buffalo  trace.  Apprehending  from  this 
reason,  and  the  character  of  the  mountains, 
which  are  known  to  be  extremely  rugged, 
that  the  right-hand  branch  led  to  no  pass,  I 
proceeded  up  the  middle  branch,  which 
formed  a  flat  valley  bottom  between  timber- 
ed ridges  on  the  led  and  snowy  mountains 
on  l^e  right,  terminating  in  large  buttes  of 
naked  rock.  The  trail  was  good,  and  the 
country  interesting ;  and  at  nightfall  we 
encamped  in  an  open  place  among  the  pines, 
where  we  built  a  strong  fort.  The  moun- 
tains exhibit  their  usual  varied  growth  of 
flowers,  and  tit  this  place  I  noticed,  among 
others,  tkermopsis  montana,  whose  bright 
Yellow  color  makes  it  a  showy  plant.  This 
iiaa  been  a  characteristic  in  many  parts  of 
the  country  since  reaching  the  Uintah 
waters.  With  fields  of  iris  were  oquUegia 
carulea,  violets,  esparoette,  and  straw- 
berries. 

At  dark,  we  perceived  a  fire  in  the  edge 
of  the  pines,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  val- 
ley. We  had  evidently  not  been  discovered, 
and,  at  the  report  of  a  gun,  and  the  blaze  of 
fresh  fuel  which  was  heaped  on  our  fires, 
those  of  the  strangers  were  instantly  ex- 
tinguished. In  the  morning,  they  were 
found  to  be  a  party  of  six  trappers,  who  had 
Tentured  out  among  the  mountains  after 
beaver.  They  informed  us  that  two  of  the 
number  with  which  they  had  started  had 
been  already  killed  by  the  Indians — one  of 
Xhem  but  a  few  days  since — by  the  Arapa- 
hoes  we  had  lately  seen,  who  had  found 
him  alone  at  a  camp  on  this  river,  and  car- 
ried off  his  traps  and  animals.  As  they 
were  desirous  to  join  us,  the  hunters  return- 
«d  with  tltem  to  their  encampment,  and  we 


continued  up  the  valley,  in  which  the  stream 
rapidly  diminished,  breaking  into  small  trib- 
utaries— every  hollow  affording  water.  At 
our  noon  halt,  the  hunters  joined  us  with 
the  trappers.  While  preparing  to  start 
from  their  encampment,  they  found  them- 
selves suddenly  surrounded  by  a  party  of 
Arapahoes,  who  informed  them  that  their 
scouis  had  discovered  a  large  Utah  village 
in  the  Bayou  Salade,  (South  Park,)  and 
that  a  large  war  party,  consisting  of  almost 
every  man  in  the  village,  except  those  who 
were  too  old  to  go  to  war,  were  going  ovdr 
to  attack  them.  The  main  body  had  as- 
cended the  \e(i  fork  of  the  river,  which  af- 
forded a  better  pass  than  the  branch  we  were 
on  ;  and  this  party  had  followed  our  trail,  ii> 
order  that  we  might  add  our  force  ta  theirs. 
Carson  informed  them  that  we  were  too  far 
ahead  to  turn  bac.;,  but  would  join  them  <n 
the  bayou  ;  and  tlie  Indians  went  off  appa- 
rently satisfied.  By  the  temperature  of 
boiling  water,  our  elevation  here  was  10,430 
feet;  and  still  the  pine  forest  continued, 
and  grass  was  good. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  continued  our  road — 
occasionally  through  open  pines,  with  a  very 
gradual  ascent.  We  surprised  a  herd  of 
buffalo,  enjoying  the  shade  at  a  small  lake 
among  the  pines ;  and  they  made  the  dry 
branches  crack,  as  they  broke  through  the 
woods.  In  a  ride  of  about  three-quarters  of 
an  hour,  and  having  ascended  perhaps  800 
feet,  we  reached  the  summit  or  the  divid- 
ing RiDOB,  which  would  thus  have  an  esti- 
mated height  of  11,200  feet.  Here  the 
river  spreads  itself  into  small  branches  and 
springs,  heading  nearly  in  the  summit  of  the 
ridge,  which  is  very  narrow.  Immediately 
below  us  was  a  green  valley,  through  which 
ran  a  stream ;  and  a  short  distance  opposite 
rose  snowy  mountains,  whose  summits  were 
formed  into  peaks  of  naked  rock.  We 
soon  afterwards  satisfied  ourselves  that  im- 
mediately beyond  there  mountains  was  the 
main  branch  of  the  Arkansas  river — most 
probably  heading  directly  with  the  littie 
stream  below  us,  which  gathered  its  waters 
in  the  snowy  mountains  near  by.  Descrip- 
tions of  the  rugged  character  of  the  moun- 
tains around  the  head  of  the  Arkansas, 
which  their  appearance  amply  justified,  de- 
terred me  from  making  any  attempt  to  reooh 
it,  which  would  have  involved  a  greater 
length  of  time  than  now  remained  at  my  dia- 


In  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  we  de- 
scended from  the  summit  of  the  Pass  into 
the  creek  below,  our  road  having  been  Taiy 
much  controlled  and  interrupted  by  the  pinM 
and  springs  on  the  mountain  side.  Tam- 
ing up  the  stream,  we  encamped  on  a  bot- 
tom of  good  grass  near  its  head,  whieh 
gathers  its  waters  in  the  dividing  creat  of  tht 


[1844 

alley,  in  which  the  strean 

breaking  into  small  trib- 

low  aflbrdinff  water.     At 

le  hunters  joined  us  with 

Vhile  preparing   to  start 

pment,  they  found  them- 

lurrounded  by  a  party  of 

nformed  them  that  their 

ered  a  large  Utah  village 

Jade,   (South   Park,)  and 

tarty,  consisting  of  almost 

village,  except  those  who 

>  to  war,  were  going  ovdr 

The  main  body  had  as- 

irk  of  the  river,  which  af- 

is  than  the  branch  we  were 

had  followed  our  trail,  iv 

[ht  add  our  force  ta  theirs. 

them  that  we  were  too  far 

.{,  but  would  join  them  in 

lie  Indians  went  off  appa- 

By  the  temperature  of 

elevation  here  was  10,430 

lie  pine  forest  continued, 

od. 

n,  we  continued  our  road— 
igh  open  pines,  with  a  very 
We  surprised  a  herd  of 
the  shade  at  a  small  lake 
I ;  and  they  made  the  dry 
IS  they  broke  through  the 
B  of  about  three-quarters  of 
ing  ascended  perhaps  800 
the  SUMMIT  or  the  ditid- 
I  would  thus  have  an  esti> 
r  11,200  feet.  Here  the 
ilf  into  small  branches  and 
nearly  in  the  summit  of  the 
ery  narrow.  Immediately 
freen  valley,  through  which 
id  a  short  distance  opposite 
tains,  whose  summits  were 
iks  of  naked  rock.  We 
satisfied  ourselves  that  im- 
1  thece  mountains  waa  the 
the  Arkansas  river — most 
J  directly  with  the  littie 
which  gathered  its  waters 
iintains  near  by.  Descrip- 
:ed  character  of  the  moun- 
B  head  of  the  Arkansas, 
arance  amply  justified,  de- 
aaking  any  attempt  to  reach 
have  involved  a  greater 
m  now  remained  at  my  di>- 

larter  of  an  hour,  wa  da- 
I  summit  of  the  Pass  into 
our  road  having  been  Tary 
ind  interrupted  by  the  pinas 
tie  mountain  side.  Toni- 
n,  we  encamped  on  a  bot- 
•Ms  near  its  head,  whieh 
B  in  the  dividing  crest  of  tha 


1644] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


179 


Rocky  mountains,  and,  according  tu  the  best 
information  we  could  obtain,  separated  only 
by  the  rocky  wall  of  the  ridge  from  the  head 
of  the  main  Arkansas  river.  By  the  obser- 
vations of  the  evening,  the  latitude  of  our 
encampment  was  30<3  20'  24",  and  south  of 
which,  therefore,  is  the  head  of  the  Arkan- 
sas river.  The  stream  on  which  m'o  had 
encamped  is  the  head  of  either  the  Fonlaine- 
qui-houit,  a  branch  of  the  Arkansas,  or  the 
remotest  head  of  the  south  fork  of  the 
Platte ;  an  which,  you  will  find  it  laid  down 
on  the  map.  But  descending  it  only  through 
a  portion  of  its  course,  we  have  not  been 
abl?  to  &  ittle  this  point  satisfactorily. 

In  the  evening,  a  band  of  buffalo  furnished 
a  little  excitement,  by  charging  through  the 
camp. 

On  the  following  day,  we  descended  the 
stream  by  an  excellent  buffalo  trail,  along 
the  open  grassy  bottom  of  the  river.  On 
Ajr  right,  the  bayou  was  bordered  by  a 
mountainous  range,  crested  with  rocky  and 
naked  peaks  ;  and  below,  it  had  a  beautiful 
park-like  character  of  pretty  level  prairies, 
interspersed  among  low  spurs,  wooded 
openly  with  pine  and  quaking  asp,  contrast- 
ing well  with  the  denser  pines  which  swept 
around  on  the  mountain  sides.  Descending 
always  the  valley  of  the  stream,  towards 
noon  we  descried  a  mounted  party  descend- 
ing '>"  point  of  a  spur,  and.  judging  them  to 
be  Arapahoes — who,  defeated  or  victorious, 
were  equally  dangerous  to  us,  and  with 
whom  a  fight  would  be  inevitable — we  hur- 
ried to  post  ourselves  as  strongly  as  possible 
on  some  willow  islands  in  the  river.  We 
had  scarcely  halted  when  they  arrived, 
proving  to  be  a  party  of  Utah  women,  who 
told  us  that  on  the  other  side  of  the  ridge 
their  village  was  fighting  with  the  Arapa- 
hoes. As  soon  as  they  had  given  us  this  in- 
formation, they  filled  the  air  with  cries  and 
lamentations,  which  made  us  understand 
that  some  of  their  chiefs  had  been  killed. 

Extending  along  the  river,  directly  ahead 
of  us,  was  a  low  piny  ridge,  leaving  be- 
tween it  and  the  stream  a  small  open  bottom, 
on  which  the  Utahs  had  very  injudiciously 
placed  their  village,  which,  according  to  the 
women,  numbered  about  300  warriors.  Ad- 
vancing in  the  cover  of  the  pines,  the  Ara- 
fiahoes,  about  daylight,  charged  into  the  vil- 
age,  driving  off  a  great  number  of  their 
horses,  and  killing  fbur  men  ;  among  them, 
the  principal  chief  of  the  village.  They 
drove  the  horses  perhaps  a  mile  beyond  the 
village,  to  the  end  of  a  hollow,  where  they 
had  previously  forted  at  the  edge  of  the 
pines.  Here  the  Utahs  had  instantly  at- 
tacked them  in  turn,  and,  according  to  the 
report  of  the  women,  were  getting  rather 
tha  b.;st  of  the  day.  The  women  nressed 
aa  aagerly  to  Join  with  their  people,  and 


would  immediately  have  provided  us  with 
the  best  horses  at  the  village  ;  but  it  was 
I  ot  for  us  to  interfere  in  such  a  conflict. 
Neither  party  were  our  friends,  or  under  out 
protection  ;  and  each  was  ready  to  prey  up- 
on us  that  could.  But  we  could  not  help 
feeling  an  unusual  excitement  at  being  with- 
in a  few  hundred  yards  of  a  fight,  in  which 
500  men  were  closely  engaged,  and  hearing 
the  sharp  cracks  of  their  rifles.  We  were 
in  a  bad  position,  and  subject  to  be  attacked 
in  it.  Either  party  whicli  we  might  meet, 
victorious  or  defeated,  was  certain  to  fall 
upon  us  ;  and,  gearing  up  immediately,  we 
kept  close  along  the  pines  of  the  ridge,  hav- 
ing it  between  us  and  the  village,  and  keep- 
ing the  scouts  on  the  summit,  to  give  us 
notice  of  the  approach  of  Indians.  As  we 
passed  by  the  village,  which  was  immedi- 
ately below  us,  horsemen  were  galloping  to 
and  fro,  and  groups  of  people  were  gathered 
around  those  who  were  wounded  and  dead, 
and  who  were  being  brought  in  from  the 
field.  We  continued  to  press  on,  and,  cross- 
ing another  fork,  which  came  in  from  the 
right,  aAer  having  made  fifteen  miles  from 
the  village,  fortified  ourselves  strongly  in 
the  pines,  a  bhort  distance  from  the  river. 

During  the  afternoon,  Pike's  Peak  had 
been  plainly  in  view  before  us,  and,  from 
*ur  encampment,  bore  N.  87°  E.  by  com- 
pass. This  was  a  familiar  object,  and  it 
had  for  us  the  face  of  an  old  friend.  At  its 
foot  were  the  springs,  where  we  had  spent 
a  pleasant  day  in  coming  out.  Near  it  were 
the  habitations  of  civilized  men ;  and  it 
overlooked  the  broad  smooth  plains,  which 
promised  us  an  easy  journey  to  our  home. 

The  next  day  We  lefl  tne  river,  which 
continued  its  course  towards  Pike's  Peak  ; 
and  taking  a  southeasterly  direction,  in 
about  ten  miles  we  crossed  a  centle  ridge, 
and,  issuing  from  the  South  Park,  found 
ourselves  involved  among  the  broken  spurs 
of  the  mountains  which  border  the  ereat 
prairie  plains.  Although  broken  and  ex- 
tremely rugged,  the  country  was  very  inter- 
esting, being  well  watered  by  numerous  af- 
fluents to  the  Arkansas  river,  and  covered 
with  grass  and  a  variety  of  trees.  The 
streams,  which,  in  the  upper  part  of  their 
course,  ran  through  grassy  and  open  hol- 
lows, afVer  a  few  miles  all  descended  into 
deep  and  impracticable  canons,  through 
which  they  found  their  way  to  the  Arkan- 
sas valley.  Here  the  buffalo  trails  we  had 
followed  were  dispersed  among  the  hills,  or 
crossed  over  into  the  more  open  valleys  of 
other  streams. 

During  the  day  our  road  was  fatiguing 
and  difficult,  reminding  us  much,  by  its  steep 
and  rocky  character,  of  our  travelling  tha 
year  before  among  the  Wind  river  moun- 
tains; but  always  at  night  wa  found  — 


Ji! 


,-wii  irnwHi*^ 


180 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1814. 


grassy  bottom,  which  afforded  us  a  pleasant 
camp.  In  the  deep  sechision  of  these  lit- 
tle streams,  wo  found  always  an  abundant 
pasturage,  and  a  wild  luxuriance  of  plants 
and  trees.  Aspens  and  pines  were  the  pre- 
raiiing  timber  ;  on  the  creeks,  oak  was  fre- 
quent ;  but  tiie  narrow-leaved  cotton-wood, 
(jmpulu.i  anf^ii.ifi/olia,)  of  unusually  large 
size,  and  seven  or  eight  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence, was  the  principal  tree.  With  these 
were  mingled  a  variety  of  shrubby  trees, 
which  aided  to  make  the  ravines  almost  im 
penetrable. 

After  several  days'  laborious  travelling, 
w-e  succeeded  in  extricating  ourselves  from 
the  mountains,  and  on  the  morning  of  the 
28th  encamped  immediately  at  their  foot, 
on  a  handsome  tributary  to  the  Arkansas 
river.  In  the  afternoon  wo  descended  the 
stream,  winding  our  way  along  the  bottoms, 
which  were  densely  wooded  with  oak,  and 
in  the  evening  encamped  near  the  main 
river.  Continuing  the  next  day  our  road 
along  the  Arkansas,  and  meeting  on  the 
way  a  war  party  of  Arapahoe  Indians,  (who 
had  recently  been  committing  some  out- 
rages at  Bent's  fort,  killing  stock  and  dri- 
ving off  horses,)  we  arrived  before  sunset  at 
the  Pueblo,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Fonlaine- 
qui-bouit  river,  where  we  had  the  pleasure 
to  find  a  number  of  our  old  acquaintances. 
The  little  settlement  appeared  in  a  thriving 
condition ;  and  in  the  interval  of  our  ab- 
sence another  had  been  established  on  the 
river,  some  thirty  miles  above. 

June  30. — Our  cavalcade  moved  rapidly 
down  the  Arkansas,  along  the  broad  road 
which  follows  the  river,  and  on  the  1st  of 
July  we  arrived  at  Bent's  fort,  about  70 
miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Fontaine-qui- 
bouit.    As  we  emerged  into  view  from  the 

f  roves  on  the  river,  we  were  saluted  with  a 
isplay  of  the  national  flag  and  repeated 
discharges  from  thr  :"uns  of  the  fort,  where 
we  were  received  by  Mr.  George  Bent  with 
a  cordial  welcome  and  a  friendly  hospitality, 
in  the  enjoyment  of  which  we  spent  several 
very  agreeable  days.  We  were  now  in  the 
region  where  our  mountaineers  were  accus- 
tomed to  live  ;  and  all  the  dangers  and  dif- 
ficulties of  the  road  being  considered  past, 
four  of  them,  including  Carson  and  Walker, 
remained  at  the  fort. 

On  the  5th  we  resumed  our  journey  down 
(he  Arkansas,  travelling  along  a  broad  wag- 
on road,  and  encamped  about  twenty  miles 
below  the  fort.  On  the  way  wu  met  a  very 
large  village  of  Sioux  and  Cheyenne  In- 
dians, who,  with  the  Arapahoes,  were  re- 
turning from  the  crossing  of  the  Arkansas, 
where  they  had  been  to  meet  the  Kioway 
and  Camanchf!  Indians.  A  few  days  previ- 
ous they  had  massacred  a  party  of  fifleen 
D«lawares,  whom  they  had  discovered  in  a 


fort  on  the  Smoky  Hill  river,  losing  in  the 
affair  several  of  their  own  people.  They 
were  desirous  that  wo  should  bear  a  pacific 
message  to  the  Delawares  on  the  frontier, 
from  whom  they  expected  retaliation  ;  and 
we  passed  through  them  without  any  diffi- 
culty or  delay.  Dispersed  over  the  plain  in 
scattered  bodies  of  horsemen,  and  family 
groups  of  women  and  children,  with  dog 
trains  carrying  baggage,  and  long  lines  of 
pack  horses,  their  appearance  was  pictu 
rcsque  and  imposing. 

Agreeably  to  your  instructions,  which  re" 
quired  me  to  complete,  as  far  as  practica- 
ble, our  examinations  of  the  Kansas,  I  left 
at  this  encampment  the  Arkansas  river, 
taking  a  northeasterly  direction  across  the 
elevated  dividing  grounds  which  separate 
that  river  from  the  waters  of  the  Platte. 
On  the  7th  we  crossed  a  large  stream,  about 
forty  yards  wide,  and  one  or  two  feet  deep, 
flowing  with  a  lively  current  on  a  sandy 
bed.  The  discolored  and  muddy  appear- 
ance of  the  water  indicated  that  it  proceed- 
ed from  recent  rains  ;  and  we  are  inclined 
to  consider  this  a  branch  of  the  Smoky  Mill 
river,  although,  possibly,  it  may  be  the  Paw- 
nee fork  of  the  Arkansas.  Beyond  this 
stream  we  travelled  over  high  and  level 
prairies,  halting  at  small  ponds  and  holes  of 
water,  and  using  for  our  fires  the  bois  dt 
vachc,  the  country  being  without  timber. 
On  the  evening  of  the  8th  we  encamped 
in  a  cotton-wood  grove  on  the  banks  of  a 
sandy  stream  bed,  where  there  was  water  in 
holes  sufficient  for  the  camp.  Here  several 
hollows,  or  dry  creeks  with  sandy  beds, 
met  together,  forming  the  head  of  a  stream 
which  afterwards  proved  to  be  the  Smoky 
Hill  fork  of  the  Kansas  river. 

The  next  morning,  as  we  were  leaving 
our  encampment,  a  number  of  Arapahoe  In- 
dians were  discovered.  They  belonged  to 
a  war  party  which  had  scattered  over  the 
prairie  in  returning  from  an  expedition 
against  the  Pawnees. 

As  we  travelled  down  the  valley,  water 
gathered  rapidly  in  the  sandy  bed  from  ma- 
ny little  tributaries  ;  and  at  evening  it  had 
become  a  handsome  stream,  fifty  to  eighty 
feet  in  width,  with  a  lively  current  in  small 
channels,  the  water  being  principally  dis- 
persed among  quicksands. 

Gradually  enlarging,  in  a  few  days'  march 
it  became  a  river  eighty  yards  in  breadth, 
wooded  with  occasional  groves  of  cotton- 
wood.  Our  road  was  generally  over  level 
uplands  bordering  the  river,  which  were 
closely  covered  with  a  sward  of  buffalo 
grass. 

On  the  10th  wc  entered  again  the  buffalo 
range,  where  we  had  found  these  animals 
so  abundant  on  our  outward  journey,  and 
halted  for  a  day  among  numerous  herds,  in 


(1814. 

Hill  river,  losing  in  the 
heir  own  people.  Thoy 
n  e  should  bear  a  pacific 
elawarea  on  the  frontier, 
xpccted  retaliation  ;  and 
1  them  without  any  diffi- 
ispcrsed  over  the  plain  in 
f  horsemen,  and  family 
and  children,  with  dog 
ggage,  and  long  lines  ot 
appearance  was  pictu 

Iff- 

ur  instructions,  which  re> 
plete,  as  far  as  practica- 
ons  of  the  Kansas,  I  left 
nt   the  Arkansas    river, 
eriy  direction  across  the 
grounds  which  separate 
le  waters  of  the  Platte, 
ised  a  large  stream,  about 
ind  one  or  two  feet  deep, 
i^ely  current  on  a  sandy 
ired  and  muddy  appcar- 
indicated  that  it  proceed- 
ins  ;  and  we  are  inclined 
branch  of  the  Smoky  Hill 
ssibly,  it  may  be  the  Paw- 
Arkansas.      Beyond  this 
led    over  high  and  level 
t  small  ponds  and  holes  of 
for  our  fires  the  bois  dt 
■y  being  without  timber, 
of  the  8th  we  encamped 
grove  on  the  banks  of  a 
where  there  was  water  in 
r  the  camp.    Here  several 
:reeks   with    sandy  beds, 
(ling  the  head  of  a  stream 
proved  to  be  the  Smoky 
[ansas  river. 

ling,  as  we  were  leaving 
a  number  of  Arapahoe  In- 
ered.  They  belonged  to 
1  had  scattered  over  the 
ing  from  an  expedition 
tea. 

i  down  the  valley,  water 
a  the  sandy  bed  from  ma- 
s ;  and  at  evening  it  had 
le  stream,  fifty  to  eighty 
»  a  lively  current  in  small 
er  being  principally  dis- 
iksands. 

jing,  in  a  few  days'  march 
eighty  yards  in  breadth, 
isional  groves  of  cotton- 
was  generally  over  level 
the  river,  which  were 
^ith  a  sward   of  bufl[alo 

entered  again  the  buflhlo 
lad  found  these  animals 
ur  outward  journey,  and 
nong  numerous  herds,  ia 


1844.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


181 


order  to  make  a  provision  of  meat  sufficient 
to  carry  us  to  the  frontier. 

A  few  days  afterwards,  we  encamped,  in 
a  pleasant  evening,  on  a  high  river  prairie, 
the  stream  being  less  than  a  hundred  yards 
broad.  During  the  night  we  had  a  succes- 
sion of  thunder  storms,  with  heavy  and  con- 
tinuous rain,  and  towards  morning  the  water 
suddenly  burst  over  the  banks,  flooding  the 
bottoms,  and  becoming  a  large  river,  live  or 
six  hundred  yards  in  breadth.  The  dark- 
ness of  the  night  and  incessant  rain  had 
concealed  from  the  guard  the  rise  of  the 
water;  and  the  rivjr  broke  into  the  camp 
so  suddenly,  that  the  baggage  was  instantly 
covered,  and  all  our  perishable  collections 
almost  entirely  ruined,  and  the  hard  labor 
of  man^  months  destroyed  in  a  moment. 

On  the  17th  vve  discovered  a  largo  village 
of  Indians  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  a 
handsomely  wooded  stream  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  river.  Readily  inferring,  from 
the  nature  of  the  encampment,  that  they 
were  Pawnee  Indians,  and  confidently  ex- 
pecting good  treatment  from  a  people  who 
receive  regularly  an  annuity  from  the  Gov- 
ernment, we  proceeded  directly  to  the  vil- 
lage, where  we  found  assembled  nearly  all 
the  Pawnee  tribe,  who  were  now  returning 
from  the  crossing  of  the  Arkansas,  where 
they  had  met  the  Kioway  and  Camanchc 
Indians.  We  were  received  by  them  with 
(he  unfriendly  rudeness  and  characteristic 
insolence  which  they  never  fail  to  display 
whenever  they  find  an  occasion  for  doing  so 
with  impunity.  The  little  that  remained 
of  our  goods  was  distributed  among  them, 
but  proved  entirely  insufficient  to  satisfy 
their  greedy  rapacity  ;  and,  after  some  de- 
lav,  and  considerable  difficulty,  we  succeed- 
ed in  extricating  ourselves  from  the  village, 
and  encamped  on  the  river  about  fifteen 
miles  below.* 

The  country  through  which  we  had  been 
travelling  since  leaving  the  Arkansas  river, 
for  a  distance  of  260  miles,  presented  to  the 
eye  only  a  succession  of  far-stretching  green 
prairies,  covered  with  the  unbroken  verdure 
of  the  bulTalo  grass,  and  sparingly  wooded 
along  the  streams  with  straggling  trees  and 
occasional  groves  of  cotton-wood  ;  but  here 
the  country  began  perceptibly  to  change  its 
character,  becoming  a  more  fertile,  wooded, 
and  beautiful  region,  covered  with  a  profu- 
sion of  grasses,  and  watered  with  innumera- 
ble little  streams,  which  were  wooded  with 
oak,  large  elms,  and  the  usual  va  ieties  of 

*  In  a  recent  report  to  the  depirtment,  from 
Major  Wharton,  who  visited  the  Pawnee  vil- 
lages with  a  military  force  some  montlis  afler- 
T-i.rds,  it  is  stated  that  the  Indians  had  intended 
to  attack  our  party  during  the  night  we  remain- 
ed at  this  encampment,  but  were  prevented  by 
tbs  iBteipositwn  of  the  Pawnee  Loups. 


timber  common  to  the  lower  course  of  the 
Kansas  river. 

As  we  advanced,  the  country  steadily 
improved,  gradually  assimilating  itself  in 
appearance  to  the  northwestern  part  of  the 
Stute  of  Missouri.  The  beautiful  sward  of 
the  buffalo  grass,  which  is  regarded  as  the 
best  and  most  nutritious  found  on  the  pr.ii- 
ries,  appeared  now  only  in  patches,  being 
replaced  by  a  longer  and  coarser  grass, 
which  covered  the  face  of  the  country  lux- 
uriantly. The  difference  in  the  charactet 
of  the  grasses  became  suddenly  evident  in 
the  weakened  condition  of  our  animals, 
which  began  sensibly  to  fail  as  soon  as  we 
quitted  the  buflulo  grass. 

The  river  preserved  a  uniform  breadth 
of  eighty  or  a  hundred  yards,  with  broad 
bottoms  continuously  timbered  with  large 
cotton-wood  trees,  among  which  were  in- 
terspersed a  few  other  varieties. 

While  engaged  in  crossing  one  of  the  nu- 
merous creeks  which  frequently  impeded 
and  checked  our  way,  sometimes  obliging 
us  to  ascend  them  fur  several  miles,  one  of 
the  people  (Alexis  Ayot)  was  shot  through 
the  leg  by  the  accidental  discharge  of  a  ritle 
— a  mortifying  and  painful  mischance,  to  be 
crippled  for  life  by  an  accident,  after  having 
nearly  accomplished  in  safety  a  long  and 
eventful  journey.  He  was  a  young  man  of 
remarkably  good  and  cheerful  temper,  and 
had  been  among  the  useful  and  efiicient  men 
of  the  party. 

After  having  travelled  directly  along  its 
banks  for  two  hundred  and  ninety  miles,  w« 
left  the  river,  where  it  bore  suddenly  off  in 
a  northwesterly  direction,  towards  its  junc- 
tion with  the  Republican  fork  of  the  Kan- 
sas, distant  about  sixty  miles  ;  and,  continu- 
ing our  easterly  course,  in  about  twenty 
miles  we  entered  the  wagon  road  from  Santa 
Fe  to  Independence,  and  on  the  last  day  of 
July  encamped  again  at  the  little  town  of 
Kansas,  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri  river. 

During  our  protracted  absence  of  fourteen 
months,  in  the  course  of  which  we  had  ne- 
cessarily been  exposed  to  great  varieties  of 
weather  and  of  climate,  no  one  case  of  sick- 
ness had  ever  occurred  among  us. 

Here  ended  our  land  journey  ;  and  the 
day  following  our  arrival,  we  found  our- 
selves on  board  a  steamboat  rapidly  gliding 
down  the  broad  Missouri.  Our  travel-worn 
animals  had  not  been  sold  and  dispersed 
over  the  country  to  renewed  labor,  but  were 
placed  at  good  pasturage  on  the  frontier, 
and  are  now  ready  to  do  their  part  in  the 
coming  expedition. 

On  the  6th  of  August  we  arrived  at  St. 
I<ouis,  where  the  party  was  finally  disbano* 
ed  ;  a  great  number  of  the  men  having  thair 
homes  in  the  neighborhood. 

Andioaa  Fueutes  also  remained  hen,  hav* 


I 

III 


'M 


i#i 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


11944. 


tag  readily  found  employment  for  the  win- 
ter, and  is  one  of  the  men  engaged  to  ac- 
company me  the  present  year. 

Pablo  Hernandez  remains  in  the  family 
of  Senator  Benton,  where  he  is  well  tai<en 
care  of,  and  conciliates  good  will  by  his  do- 
cility, intelligence,  and  amiability.  General 
Almonte,  the  Mexican  minister  at  Wash- 
ington, to  whom  he  was  of  course  made 
known,  kindly  offered  to  take  charge  of 
him,  and  to  carry  him  back  to  Mexico ;  but 
the  boy  preferred  to  remain  where  he  was 
until  he  got  an  education,  for  which  he 
•hows  equal  ardor  and  aptitude. 

Our  Chinook  Indian  had  his  wish  to  see 


the  whites  fully  gratified.  He  accompanied 
me  to  Washington,  and,  aAer  remaining 
several  months  at  the  Columbia  college,  was 
sent  by  the  Indian  department  to  Philadel- 
phia, where,  among  otiier  things,  he  learned 
to  read  and  write  well,  and  speak  the  Eng- 
lish language  with  some  fluency. 

He  will  accompany  me  in  a  few  days  to 
the  frontier  of  Missouri,  whence  he  will  be 
sent  with  some  one  of  the  emigrant  compa- 
nies to  the  village  at  the  Dalles  of  tlie  Co- 
lumbia. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 
J.  C.  FREMONT, 
Bt.  Capt.  Topi.  Enginnrt. 


11944. 

tified.  He  accompanied 
I,  and,  aAer  remaining 
he  Columbia  college,  was 
department  to  Philadcl- 

otlier  things,  he  learned 
'ell,  and  speak  the  Eng- 
some  fluency, 
iny  me  in  a  few  days  to 
)ouri,  whence  he  will  be 

of  the  emigrant  compa- 
kt  the  Dalles  of  tlie  Co- 

',  your  obedient  servant, 
J.  C.  FREMONT, 
Capt.  Tojd.  Enginttri. 


CAPT.  FUKMUN T'S  NAKRATIVE.  18* 

TABLE  OF  DISTANCES 

ALONO 

TlIE  ROAD   TRAVELLED  BY  THE  EXPEDITION  IN  1843  AND  18U 


OUTWARD  JOURNEY. 

From  Kansas  Landing  to  Fort  Vancouver. 


37 


29 

21 

30 

2C 

luly  1 

32 

2 

iK> 

3 

28 

4 

18 

26 

4 

27 

26 

98 

20 

24 
2V 
30 


540 

567 

597 

618 

644 

676 

705 

733 

751 

755  I 

781  r 

801  I 


Croaing  of  the  Re 
publican. 


South  fork. 


St  Vrmia's  foit 


16 

26  ' 

14J47 

17 

21  1 

1,268 

18 

32  1 

1,300 

19 

28  ; 

1,328 

20 

30  '■ 

1,358 

21 

26  i 

1,384 

22 

37   ; 

1,421 

23 

13  ' 

1,433 

24 

22 

1,455 

25 

8 

1,463 

26 

21 

1,484 

27 

21 

1,505 

28 

27 

1,533 

29 

17 

1,549 

30 

19 

1,568 

31 

26 

1,594 

Sept  1 

22 

^•^iS 

2 

17 

1,633 

3 

3 

1.636 

4 

6 

1,642 

5 

Ul 

1,669 

6 

25 

1.694 

Green    river,  w   Urn 
Colorado. 


$ 


BeerSpriagk 


Mouth  of  Bear  tint. 


184 


CAPT.  FllKMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 
TABL13  OF  DISTANCES— Continued. 


Date. 


!i 


1843. 
Scot.  8 


10 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
S3 
34 

25 

S6 

27 

28 

29 

30 

Oct  1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

.   6 

7 

8 


8| 

ft- 


20 


28 
13 
27 
24 
19 
26 
24 
23 
13 
10 

13 
17 
20 
25 
34 
26 
16 
29 
16 
19 
26 
23 
23 


Miles. 
1,714 

1,722 

1,750 
1,763 
1,790 
1,814 
1,833 
1,859 
1,883 
1,906 
1,918 
1,928 

1,941 
1,958 
1,978 
2,003 
2,027 
3,053 
2,069 
2,098 
2,114 
3,133 
3,159 
3,181 
3,304 
3,230 


Localitieii. 


Shore  of 

luke. 
lalund   in 

lake. 


tho   fi«alt 
the  Salt 


Fort  Hall. 

American  falla 
Lewia'a  fork. 


Date. 


«  9 


'« 


Loca!iUe 


1843. 
Oct.  9 
10 
11 
13 
13 
14 
IS 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
23 
24 
25 
36 


28 

29 

30 

31 

Nov.   1 

3 

3 

4 

6&.7 


Mileo. 

Miles. 

31 

2,254 

3 

2,256 

20 

2,276 

27 

2,303 

20 

2,3L'3 

23 

2,345 

26 

2,371 

13 

2,384 

31 

2,405 

20 

2,425 

21 

2,446 

13 

2,458 

5 

2,463 

16 

2,479 

18 

2,497 

18 

2,515 

3 

2,518 

Fort  Boii<. 


19 
19 
21 
26 
23 
19 
17 
14 
90 


2,537 
2,.')56 
2,577 
2,603 
2,626 
2,645 
3,663 
8,676 
3,766 


Fort  Nez  Perc«,  al 
tlie  mouth  of  Wa- 
laliwalah  mm- 


DalleN. 

Fort  VancouTtr. 


HOMEIirARD  JOURNEY. 

From  Vie  Dalles  to  the  Missouri  river. 


i1 

ll 

II 

Date. 

Localitiea. 

Date. 

S  •> 

Localitiea. 

|i 

.•sl 

ft 

It 

1843. 

MiUs. 

Mile: 

1843. 

MiUs. 

Miles. 

!foT.  35 

13 

12 

Dec.  4 

9 

147 

36 

33 

34 

5 

11 

158 

27 

13 

47 

. 

6 

19 

177 

28 

21 

68 

7 

25 

202 

29 

31 

89 

8 

19 

221 

SO 

10 

99 

9 

14 

235 

Dee.     1 

6 

105 

10 

15 

250 

Tlamatb  hk* 

S 

11 

116 

13 

5 

255 

S 

S3 

138 

13 

12 

267 

,,-,.  i 


CAPT.  FilEMONT'S  NAllUATIVE. 
TABLK  OF  D1STANC15S— Continued. 


LocaUtiM. 


Fort  BoM. 


Fort  Nez  Perc«,  al 
the  mouth  of  Wa- 
luhwalah  mm- 


DalleR. 

Fort  Vancourar. 


Il 

S 
Id  « 

Q 

Localitiea. 

itfites. 

147 

158 

177 

202 

221 

S35 

250 

Tlomatb  lak* 

255 

267 

1,733 
1,766 
1,774 
1,799 
1,843 
1,854 
1,861 
1,885 
1,900 
1,913 
1,930 
1,987 
2,005 
2,015 
2,033 
12,034 


Piu«  ii  the  Sierra  Na> 
vadii. 


Spanish  trail  at  Ma 
haiive  river. 


Rio  VirgWi 


IN 


CAi      rnEMOiT!  ^  NAnn- ''I**!. 

TABLK  OF  DISTANCE.  m»d. 


1 

^■3 

h 

'     1 

u 

Date 

P 

f' 

Localiliei. 

Date. 

N 

a  « 

Looal!Ue»            V 

|J 

1= 

|3 

.1-5 

1844 

MiUi. 

Mile». 

18-14. 

Milr». 

MiUt. 

May   10 

94 

2,()5B 

June  99 

15 

2.913 

Uayoii  Halade,  (South  ■ 
Park.)                         ■ 

II 

13 

2,07(1 

la 

14 

2,0H4 

Vcgaa  d«  SantaClara. 

93 

36 

9.949 

13 

15 

2.U09 

94 

91 

2.970 

15 

91 

2,120 

95 

91 

2,991 

A 

17 

2.137 

96 

11 

3.0U9 

17 

17 

9,154 

97 

10 

.1.019 

^H 

19 

27 

9,161 

98 

91 

3,033 

90 

92 

2,203 

99 

30 

3,063 

Pueblo,  on  the  Aiku*   H 

81 

31 

9,234 

MM.                                           H 

92 

33 

3.957 

30 

37 

3,100 

93 

19 

2.2(i9 

Sevier  river. 

July    1 

33 

3.133 

Bent'a  fort                     ■ 

94 

93 

2.292 

6 

90 

3.153 

95 

32 

2,394 

6 

31 

3.184 

9G 

9 

9.333 

Utah  lake. 

7 

31 

3,215 

97 

23 

2.355 

8 

98 

3,343 

Ilrad-water  of  Smo-    H 

Sd 

25 

2,380 

ky  Hill  fork  of  tki  ■ 
KauM»                     ■ 

2a 

95 

2.405 

30 

31 

2.436 

9 

27 

3,370 

31 

lU 

9,4.'>9 

10 

98 

3,298 

June    1 

lU 

9.468 

13 

94 

3,333 

9 

8 

9.476 

13 

30 

3,353 

a 

91 

9,497 

Uiutah  fort 

15 

10 

3.363 

6 

96 

9.593 

16 

93 

3,385 

fi 

15 

9,538 

17 

39 

3,417 

7 

30 

9,568 

Green  rivor,  .Brown's 

18- 

24 

3,441 

bole.) 

19 

29 

3,470 

9 

36 

9,604 

90 

99 

3,499 

10 

30 

9.634 

91 

33 

3.533 

■ '  HI 

11 

30 

9,664 

99 

17 

3,539 

19 

96 

3,690 

33 

36 

3,56S 

13 

96 

9,716 

94 

93 

3,587 

14 

93 

9t739 

95 

19 

3,606 

IS 

95 

9,7fi4 

New  Park 

96 

94 

3,630 

K 

96 

9,790 

97 

18 

3,648 

17 

33 

3,823 

Old  Park. 

98 

99 

3,670 

Iti 

13 

9,836 

99 

19 

3,689 

lif 

IG 

9,853 

30 

13 

3,694 

M 

97 

9,879 

31 

8 

3,709 

KuMuluidiv              1 

SI 

M 

8.898 

Auf .  1 

7 

3,709 

HiMuri  river.               ■ 

'ir-^ 


565 


9^ 


LmbUUm. 


Uayoii  SnlBde,  (South 
Vuk.) 


Pueblo,  on  the  Aikaa* 

MM. 

Bent's  fort 


Ilrad-water  of  Smo- 
ky ilill  fork  of  ikt 
Kai 


KuMW  luidiag 

HiMOuriliTW. 


^' 


